CHAPTER XXI.

BATON ROUGE--THE PANTHER.

Baton Rouge, La., Feb. 1, 1904.--While you in the North are wrestling

with zero temperatures, we are experiencing what these folk term

terrible winter weather. Men go about with heavy overcoats buttoned up

to the chin, and I saw one the other day with a tall coonskin cap, with

folds down over his neck, and earflaps. An open-grate fire is

comfortable in the mornings and tempers the chill of night for the

little one. Even the Chicago man finds a light overcoat advisable in the

mornings, though with light-weight underwear and thin outer clothes.

Nevertheless, the violets bloom everywhere, jonquils, polyanthus

narcissus, camellias and sweet olive are in bloom, and the big rose

bushes are covered with leaves and buds that already show the color of

the flower. The grass is green in New Orleans parks, and the magnolias

are budding. Masses of chickweed cover the margins of drains and several

plants of unknown lineage--to the writer--are in bloom. And this is the

weather to which we constantly hear the epithet "terrible" applied here.

But residents of the North who were raised in Dixie do not freeze.

Exposure to cold brings with it the ability to withstand it, and not

only that but all other morbific influences as well. It increases the

vitality, the power of resisting all noxious powers that threaten the

health and life of man.

But this applies to the sound and well, not to those who already possess

a material lesion of one or more organs. For them this soft, balmy air,

this temperature that permits a maximum of exposure to the open air, are

health-giving, life-prolonging, comfort-securing.

People speak of the sudden changes here--warm today and tomorrow

cold--as objectionable; but so they do everywhere, and we have found no

more changeability than elsewhere. And as to the rains: When it does

rain it pours, but most of it has been at night so far, and during the

day it dries off nicely. It it said that this is the rainy month, and we

may have to modify this view later. So far the rains have not been a

feature worthy of citation, as against the climate.

Much attention has been given the drinking water of late years in the

riverine cities, and generally they have water on which they pride

themselves. Artesian wells are mostly utilized. The river water is muddy

and unsightly, but probably safe and certainly palatable. We depend on

our Puritan still, and a tripoli filter, and utilize the rain water we

catch in the canvas cover of the launch. No trouble has as yet affected

us from this source; and we are satisfied it pays well to take

precautions.

From St. Louis down the river fairly bristles with opportunities for men

who understand business and have a little capital. But timber lands are

pretty well taken up. An Ohio party paid $100 an acre for 100 acres here

in this Atchafalaya country the other day.

The people? Well, we have simply adopted the whole--white--population,

and find them delightful. There has not been a discordant note in our

intercourse with this warm-hearted, hospitable folk, who unite the

courtesy of the French with a sincerity that makes itself felt every

moment.

Dogs! Everyone seems to own hounds here. We had a few runs with them;

they came aboard and inspected us, and after due deliberation approved

of us, took up their home with us and declined to stay away; so that at

night one can scarcely set foot outside the cabin without stepping on a

sleeping hound. Even the women folk are disarmed when these dogs look up

with their big, beautiful eyes and nuzzle their cold noses into the hand

for a caress. One great fellow reared up against us, placed his paws on

our shoulders and silently studied our face awhile, then dropped to the

ground and henceforth devoted himself to us, never being far from our

side. We felt complimented!

Go out with the gun, and see how these slumberous animals awake to

joyous life and activity. Then the long, musical bay, the ringing of the

hunters' horns, the quick dash of the deer past your stand, with the

dogs after, in full cry--say, brother, these low lands when leveed,

cleared and cultivated, will yield two bales of cotton to the acre, and

with cotton at 15 cents and over, is not that splendid? So shut your

ears against the cry of the wild, and only consider what Progress means,

and how the individual and civic wealth is increasing as these wild

lands are brought under the plow and made productive of dollars. For is

not all of life simply a question of dollars, and success measurable

only in the bank account? So put away from you the things that make life

worth living, and devote yourself with a whole heart to the task of

making your son a millionaire, that he may make his son a

multimillionaire, and so on. It will do you so much good in the Great

Beyond to know this. That the money for which we give up all that

renders life enjoyable will either render our descendants dissipated and

useless, or enable them to oppress their fellowmen, need not be

considered. Money is all there is in life.

The wife, daughter and Doctor are domiciled at Baton Rouge, while the

boys took the boats down to Alabama Bayou for a week with the big game.

Here is the small boy's report, verbatim:

Dear Mama and Papa: You talk about us not sending you any venison. If I

had any money I would send you enough to make you sick. I went hunting

with the boys this morning. Jim, Hudson and I went together. Bud drove

with the dogs. Jake and Frank went together. Frank took his shotgun and

he got lost from Jake, went to shooting robins. Jake got on an island

and did not know where he got on at. He had to wade a stream two feet

deep. After we had been looking for a stand we heard a shot behind us,

and then a rifle shot to the right of us, and three blows of Bud's horn,

which means dead deer. Jake was the first one to him, being only 300

yards. We walked two and one-half miles before we got to him. When we

got there he had a big doe laying over a log. Bud drew him and they took

turns carrying him home. Every tooth in my head aches from chewing

venison. How are all of you? I waded about 30 ditches today over my shoe

tops and one over my knees. Bud said if I followed the dogs with him he

would give me first shot, and if I missed he would get him. Millie made

me a belt to fit the rifle cartridges. I christened my axe in deer

blood. Bud said Queen was 10 feet behind it, King 20 feet and Diamond

ran up and threw the deer after it was shot. Then it got up and Diamond

got it in the throat and brought it down. I will have to close as it is

time to go to bed. With love to all,

William.

Not bad for an 11-year-old. Everyone has been complaining of the

terrible weather here--frost three nights last week, and a light

overcoat not oppressive, though it is hardly necessary except for the

tendency one has to put his hands in his pockets otherwise. We asked one

of the natives what they would do in Chicago with zero weather, and he

replied with an air of conviction: "Freeze to death."

We have a nibble for the boat. The river at Memphis is so full of

floating ice that the ferry boats cannot run; and that looks as if we

might not be able to get our boats towed to St. Louis before late

spring--and we want to be free. We note blooming in the open many

violets, polyanthus narcissus, camellias, sweet olive, magnolias just

budding out, and white hyacinths. The grass is putting up green shoots.

Large beds of chickweed are plentiful. The vinca was nipped by frost

last night. Next door is a fine palmetto and the great roses covering

the gallery are full of green leaves and the remains of the last crop of

blossoms, with new buds coming out. What a terrible winter!

There is a street fair here. These people go about the country and

exhibit wherever they find a town that will pay them, their price here

being, it is said, $2,000 for a week. The Red Men pay them, and probably

the merchants subscribe to it, the business brought to town compensating

them. There are a number of attractions, like a little splinter broken

off the poorest part of Atlantic City. But it gives something to see and

do and talk about, to a town where there is too little of either for the

demand. There are a huge and a dwarf horse, glass blowers, a human

dwarf, contortionist, jubilee singers, kinetoscope, trained dogs and

monkeys, dissolving statue, and of course the nigger babies and knives

to throw at and miss. We have run against these aggregations all the way

down, and they are evidently becoming a feature of the smaller towns.

Curious place for a State Capital. In our room stands a fine walnut

wardrobe with a door broken open; and there is not a mechanic in the

city who can mend it. Glass is broken, and it remains so; any quantity

of miscellaneous mending and repairing needed, but it stands. The sunny

south is a bit slipshod; the ladies are delightful, but they do not work

their finger ends off cleaning out the last possibilities of dust and

dirt--they leave it to the darkies, who do what they cannot avoid doing

and stop right there.

* * * * *

That our boys are not devoid of descriptive ability--and

imagination?--this chapter, written by Frank, will demonstrate.

"At Melville, on the Atchafalaya, we became acquainted with some young

men who had a fine pack of deer hounds. They also call these "nigger

dogs," because they are employed for trailing convicts who escape from

the camps along the river.

"Early in the morning our hunting party gathered on the levee--the

Doctor, Budd Tell, his brother Wylie, and two uncles, and four of us.

The old men were settlers and hunters of bobcat, deer, panther, bear and

other game. They said they had killed 160 deer in one winter, and

though we doubted this, we afterward found it was true.

"We penetrated the woods till a desirable spot was reached, and here

Budd posted us on our stands. These are places clear of underbrush for a

space, so that the hunter may see to shoot anything that invades his

location. One man remains with the dogs, termed the driver. He was left

about two miles behind. When all had been placed the signal was given,

to start the dogs. Soon we could hear the music of their baying, as it

did not take long for them to strike a deer trail, and a fresh one at

that. The chase led in the Doctor's direction and presently we heard him

shoot--and he had downed his first deer. He got two that day. I shot

one, and Budd got a little fat doe. The others were fine bucks, weighing

175, 150 and 123 lbs. At least we thought so, after taking turns packing

them, on a pole; and that was the only scale we had; so we think it was

legal, under the circumstances.

"As we were returning to the boat with our four deer, two men to each,

one man could be taking it easy all the time. Somehow the bunch got

separated in the cypress swamp, and suddenly we heard the scream of a

panther. Then there were a number of shots, and after that silence, for

a couple of minutes. Then came a rifle shot. Jake and I being together,

we hurried in the direction of the shots. Soon we heard a noise that we

could not make out the cause of. We were still packing the deer. Then we

came in sight of the Doctor, stooping over Budd's brother. Close by lay

a dead panther. Budd's breast and arms were badly torn by the claws of

the animal, and his brother had a scalp wound and was insensible.

However, we all turned in to help, and he was soon on his feet, somewhat

damaged and rather faint, but still in the ring.

"The panther had sprang on them from a tree, knocking Wylie down, then

turning on Budd who attacked the animal as soon as he realized what was

the trouble. The panther started for him like a cyclone and had his

shirt and some skin jerked off in less time than it takes for me to tell

it. Budd says he sure thought his time had come, and being somewhat of a

church member he put up a little call for help. Just then the Doctor ran

up, and by a lucky shot disabled the beast, which was soon dispatched.

He got the hide. The panther weighed over 100 lbs. and measured 5 feet

10 inches from nose to tip of tail.

"As Budd and Wylie were too weak to carry the deer, the big cat was

allotted to them, and two of us took each a deer till we got out of the

timber, about dark. We reached the boat at 6 p. m., very tired. But we

had had our fun, and some of us had had an experience not usual even to

houseboat travelers. And we got the panther--though it came very near

getting two of the best fellows to be found in the south."

Unfortunately the prize so highly valued was lost. The skin was

stretched out and placed on the roof to dry; that night the wind blew,

and next morning the skin had disappeared. The one now ornamenting the

Doctor's den was purchased to replace the original.

Will some one explain how it happens that an indifferent shot, when

brought in face of such a proposition will make an unerring snap shot,

when a slight deviation would endanger the life of the companion? Many

years ago, while traversing the woods of Pennsylvania, we heard our

companion cry for help, after two shots close together. We ran at full

speed, and saw him standing still, gazing at a huge snake at his feet.

Even as we ran we brought our double-barrel to our shoulder and without

taking aim blew the serpent's head off. There was no time to aim, and

had we done so it is doubtful if we could have made as good a shot.

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