VICKSBURG.
Thursday, Jan. 7. 1904.--We arrived at Vicksburg in the afternoon of
Monday, Jan. 4, and were much impressed by the beauty of the city as
seen from the river. Spread along the heights it looks like a large
city, though it only claims a population of about 22,000. Contrary to
expectation we found it busy, with evidences of life and enterprise. The
Government has built a levee which blocks up the mouth of the Yazoo, and
by a canal diverted the water of that river into the channel that runs
along the front of the city; the old bed of the river Mississippi
previous to 1876, when it cut a new bed for itself and threatened to
leave the historic fortress an inland town.
Just before reaching the city we met a row of whirlpools reaching across
the channel, whose violence would make a man in a skiff feel queer.
These are the only notable ones we have seen, except just before
reaching Arkansas City.
The _Desplaines_ could not tow us against the swift current in the
Yazoo, so left the houseboat about 300 yards up that stream and steamed
up to the city. After visiting the postoffice we started to walk back
along the levee, reaching the place we had left the boat just before
dark. She was not there, and we walked along the bank up stream till it
grew too dark to see, then got lost among the railway buildings till
directed by a friendly youth to the street where the cars ran. Reached
the tug at last, and the owner took us back with a lantern along the
levee, finding the boat in the great river, the boys having dropped down
out of the Yazoo. As we received the flukes for our launch, which Taylor
put on, we concluded to part company from the tug, and settled up with
them. Meanwhile the quarreling among her crew came to a climax and Jake
was set on shore by them. He was pilot, cook, hunter and general
all-round utility man, coming for the trip without wages, and it seems
to us suicidal for them to dismiss him, when negro roustabouts are
refusing $4.00 a day from the steamers, and engineers impossible to
secure at any price. We were full handed, but liked Jake, so we took
him aboard as a supernumerary till he could do better.
The 6th was dull and rainy but we got off, and ran about 16 miles in the
afternoon, tying up somewhere in Diamond Bend, probably below Moore's
Landing.
At V. had a letter from J. J., saying he had been sentenced to a year in
the workhouse and $50.00 fine for carrying weapons.
During the night it rained heavily, and we caught a fine lot of
rainwater in the launch cover. One learns to appreciate this on the
river.
During the afternoon we saw a negro shoot from the bank directly down on
a few geese, of which he wounded one. It swam across the river and we
got out the skiff and followed. On shore it crouched down as if dead,
and waited till Jim got within ten feet, when it got up and flew across
the river. We followed, and he shot it with a rifle when about 150 yards
off.
By that time we were miles below the darky, and as he has no boat we
fear he will not be on hand to put in a claim for the goose. We bought
one at V. for 90 cents; also eight jack-snipe for a dollar. Roast beef
was 12½ cents for round, 25 for rib, and 17½ for corned beef. Milk 10
cents a quart from wagon, buttermilk 20 cents a gallon, butter, 30 for
creamery and 25 for country.
* * * * *
Waterproof Cutoff, Friday, Jan. 8, 1904.--We ran about 23 miles on the
7th, the engine simply refusing to go; and we drifted most of the time.
Once we got fast on a nasty snag and it took all our force to get off.
We tied up to a sand bar near Hard Times Landing, in the bend of that
name. Bluff and the children had a refreshing run on the sand. Got off
today at 8 a. m., and by 1O the engine started off in good shape and has
been running well all day. The weather is clear and warm, thermometer
standing at 72 this afternoon. Little wind, but that from the south.
Some clouds betoken a possible rain. Our first wild goose for dinner on
the 6th, and all liked it well.
* * * * *
Saturday, Jan. 9, 1904.--We ran about forty miles yesterday, tying up
above L'Argent in a quicksandy nook. At 4 this morning these lazy boys
got up and started to float, making several miles before daybreak. It
is foggy at 8 and the sun invisible, but warm and with little wind. The
launch is running fitfully. Passed Hole-in-the-Wall and now opposite
Quitman Bluff.
* * * * *
Jan. 10, 1904.--Yesterday we reached Natchez at 1 p. m., and by 4 had
got our mail and supplies and were off down the river. The engine balked
under the influence of a lower temperature, and we had only made about
five miles when we had to tie up on account of the darkness. It rained
hard.