ST. LOUIS.
St. Louis, Nov. 26, 1903.--We moored at the private landing belonging to
Mr. Gardner, whose handsome yacht, the _Annie Russell_, came in on the
following day. This was a great comfort, affording a sense of security,
which the reputation of the levee made important. A reporter from the
_Globe-Democrat_ paid us a visit, and a notice of the boat and crew
brought swarms of visitors. We were deluged with invitations so numerous
that we were compelled to decline all, that no offense might be given.
But Dr. Lanphear and his wife were not to be put off, so they drove down
to take us for a drive through the Fair grounds, with their huge,
inchoate buildings; and then brought to the boat materials for a dinner
which they served and cooked there. It is needless to add that we had a
jolly time.
Many applications were made for berths on the boat, which also we had to
decline. One distinguished professor of national repute offered to
clean guns and boots if he were taken along. Despite the bad reputation
of the levee we saw absolutely nothing to annoy us. We heard of the
cruelty of the negroes to animals but scarcely saw a negro here. It is
said that they catch rats on the steamers and let them out in a circle
of negro drivers, who with their blacksnake whips tear the animal to
pieces at the first blow.
We visited the market and had _bon marche_ there, and at Luyties' large
grocery. Meat is cheap here, steak being from 10 to 12 cents a pound.
Foreman turned up with the _Bella_, and tried to get an interview; but
we refused to see him, the memory of the perils to which he had exposed
a family of helpless women and children, as well as the delay that
exposed us to the November gales, rendering any further acquaintance
undesirable.
Frank Taylor, the engineer of the _Desplaines_, was recommended to us by
his employer, Mr. Wilcox, of Joliet, as the best gasoline expert in
America; and he has been at work on our engine since we reached St.
Louis. It is a new make to him, and he finds it obscure. We have had so
much trouble with it, and the season is so far advanced, that we
arranged with the _Desplaines_, whose owner very kindly agreed to tow us
to Memphis. This is done to get the invalid below the frost line as
quickly as possible. The _Desplaines_ is selling powder fire
extinguishers along the river; and we are to stop wherever they think
there is a chance for some business.
At St. Louis we threw away our stove, which was a relic of Foreman, and
no good; and bought for $8.00 a small wood-burning range. It works well
and we can do about all our cooking on it, except frying. As we can pick
up all the wood we wish along the river, this is more economic than the
gasoline stove, which has burned 70 gallons of fuel since leaving
Chicago.
We stopped for Thanksgiving dinner above Crystal City, and the
_Desplaines_ crowd dined with us--Woodruff, Allen, Clements, Taylor and
Jake. A nice crowd, and we enjoyed their company. Also the turkey,
goose, mince pie, macaroni, potatoes, onions, celery, cranberries,
pickles, nuts, raisins, nut-candy, oranges and coffee. The current of
the river is swifter than at any place before met, and carries us along
fast. The _Desplaines_ is a steamer and works well.
We made about 50 miles today and tied up on the Illinois side, just
above a big two-story Government boat, which was apparently engaged in
protecting the banks from washing. Great piles of stone were being
dumped along the shore and timber frames laid down. It was quite cold.
The shore was lined with driftwood and young uprooted willows, and we
laid in a supply of small firewood--enough to last a week.
* * * * *
Friday morning, Nov. 27.--Temperature 20; clear and cold, with a south
wind blowing, which makes the waves bump the boat some, the wind
opposing the swift current. Got off about 7:45, heading for Chester,
where the _Desplaines_ expects to stop for letters.