THE LOWER ILLINOIS.
Saturday, Oct. 31, we bade adieu to the kind friends at Swan Lake, who
had done so much to make us comfortable, and pulled down to Henry,
passing the locks. Here we tied up till Sunday afternoon, the engine
still giving trouble, and then set off. We passed Lacon pontoon bridge
and town about 5 p. m., and three miles below tied up for the night.
Next morning, the engine proving still refractory, we floated down to
the Chillicothe bridge, which was sighted about 11 a. m. This day was
rainy and the new unpainted roof let in the water freely.
We waited at Chillicothe for the _Fred Swain_ to pass, and then swung
down to the bank below town, where we tied up. A farm house stood near
the bank, and as we tied up a woman came out and in a loud voice called
to some one to lock the chicken-house, and rattled a chain,
suggestively; from which we infer that houseboat people have not the
best reputation. We played the phonograph that evening, and the
household gathered on shore to listen; so that we trust they slept
somewhat securely. In the morning we bought some of the chickens we had
had no chance to steal, and found the folks quite willing to deal with
us. We had to wait for the _Swain_, as it was quite foggy and without
the launch we could not have gotten out of her way.
We drifted slowly down past Sand Point and The Circle lights, and tied
up to a fallen tree, opposite the little village of Spring Bay. The boys
were out of tobacco and had to row in for it. About 9 p. m. I heard
shouts and then shots, and went out, to find a thick fog. They had lost
their direction and it was only after some time and considerable
shouting that they came near enough to see the lantern. We heard that
the previous night the man who lights the channel lamps was out all
night in the fog.
[Illustration: HOUSEBOAT TOWN, PEORIA.]
Again we had to wait for the _Swain_ to pass, and then floated down past
Blue Creek Point. Here we saw a houseboat tied up, which a fisherman
told us belonged to a wealthy old bachelor who lived there from choice.
The current was slow as the river was wide, so about 2 p. m. we took a
line from the good canal boat _City of Henry_, which for three dollars
agreed to tow us to Peoria. This was faster traveling, but not a bit
nice. However, it was necessary to get the engine in order, so we put up
with it. We tied up above the upper bridge, with a nasty row of jagged
piles between us and the shore. About 5 a. m. a northeast gale sprang up
and washed us against the piles, to our great danger. Our boys arranged
a two-by-four, nailing it against the side, so that the end stuck into
the sand and fended us off the piles, and our gangway plank served the
same purpose at the other end. This is a most important matter, as the
snags might loosen a plank from the bottom.
* * * * *
Friday, Nov. 6, 1903.--At last we seem to have found a real expert on
gasoline engines. Instead of guessing that "mebbe" this or "mebbe" that
was the matter, he went at it and soon found the difficulty. In a short
time the boat was circling 'round the lake at a most enticing rate. We
laid in a new store of groceries and at 9 a. m. today set out. By lunch
time we had passed Pekin, and are now heading for the locks at Copperas
Creek, the engine going beautifully and the weather bright and cool.
About Peoria we saw great numbers of houseboats, many in the water, but
the aged members had climbed out upon the banks and perched among a
wonderful array of shanties. One house seemed to be roosting among the
branches of several large trees. Many were seen along the river below,
some quite pretty, but none we fancied as well as our own.
* * * * *
Friday, Nov. 8, 1903.--We were held back by head winds and stopped
before we reached the lock. Saturday we had good weather and little
wind, and reached Copperas Creek just after lunch. There were three feet
of water on the dam, and even the _Bald Eagle_, the largest steamer
here, runs over it; but as we had paid for the lock we went through it.
The lock-keeper took it out of us, though, by charging 15 cents for two
quarts of milk, the highest price paid yet.
We got off this morning at 8:15, and although a heavy head wind prevails
are making good time. Many loons are passing south, in large flights,
and some ducks. The marshes on either side seem to be well supplied, but
are club grounds, we are told. It is much warmer than yesterday, the
south wind blowing strongly. We moored with the anchor out at the outer
corner, up the river, and the line and gangway plank on shore, allowing
about ten feet from boat to shore; and when the _Eva Alma_ and the
_Ebaugh_ passed us there was no bumping against the shore. Evidently
that is the way to moor, though in the great river we must give more
space and more cable to the anchor.
At 10 a. m. we passed Liverpool, a hamlet of 150 inhabitants, half of
whom must reside in houseboats. Some of these were quite large and well
built.
* * * * *
We reached Havana about 4 p. m. Sunday, and as the south wind had become
too fierce for our power we tied up below the bridge, at a fisherman's
shanty. Monday morning it looked like rain, and the wind blew harder
than ever, so we lay by and the boys finished putting on the tar paper
roofing. When the wind is strong enough to blow the boat up stream
against the current, the launch will be unable to make head against it.
A couple live in an old freight car by us, and their home is worth
seeing. The sand bluff is dug out for a chicken cave and pig-pen, and
beautiful chrysanthemums are growing in boxes and pans, placed so as to
retain the earth that would otherwise wash away. Fruit trees are also
planted, and the woman tells me that the whole place is filled with
flowering plants, now covered with sand for the winter. We notice two
dracaenas.
* * * * *
Tuesday, Nov. 10, 1903.--The storm lasted all day yesterday, pinioning
us relentlessly to the beach. By 5 p. m. it let up, but we concluded to
remain at our moorings till morning. This morning we got off at 7 a. m.,
and passed the Devil's Elbow lights before lunch. We did not tie up
then, but threw out our anchor, which is less trouble and in every way
better, as there is less danger of the snags that beset the shore. The
air is rather cool for sitting outside but we spend much time there. The
river is narrowing. Each little creek has a houseboat, or several,
generally drawn up out of the water and out of reach of the ice. We saw
a woman at one of the shabbiest shanty boats washing clothes. She
stooped down and swung the garment to and fro in the water a few moments
and then hung it up to dry.
The shores are thickly dotted with little flags and squares of muslin,
put up by the surveyors who are marking out the channel for the proposed
deep waterway. These were few in the upper river. Every shallow is
appropriated by some fisherman's nets, and at intervals a cleared space
with sheds or fish boxes shows how important are the fisheries of this
river.
There is a great deal of dispute along shore over the fishing rights.
The submerging of thousands of acres of good land has greatly extended
the limits of what is legally navigable water. The fishermen claim the
right to set their nets wherever a skiff or a sawlog can float; but the
owners think that since they bought the land from the Government and
paid for it, and have paid taxes for forty years, they have something
more of rights than any outsider. If not, what did they buy? The right
to set nets, they claim, would give the right to plant crops if the
water receded. Eventually the courts will have to decide it; but if
these lands are thrown open to the public, the Drainage Board will have
a heavy bill of damages. For it seems clear that it is the canal which
has raised the level of the water.
Meanwhile the fishing is not profitable. The fish have so wide a range
that netting does not result in much of a catch. But if this rise proves
only temporary, there will be good fishing when the water subsides.
The boy does not get enough exercise, and his constant movement is
almost choreic; so we sent him out to cut firewood, which is good for
his soul. The girl amuses herself all day long with some little dolls,
but is ever ready to aid when there is a task within her strength. She
is possessed with a laughing demon, and has been in a constant state of
cachinnation the whole trip. At table some sternness is requisite to
keep the fun within due bounds. All hands mess together--we are a
democratic crowd. Saturday John W. Gates' palatial yacht, the _Roxana_,
passed down while we were at lunch. We saw a cook on deck; and two
persons, wrapped up well, reclined behind the smokestack.
* * * * *
Nov. 11, 1903.--After a run of 22 miles--our best yet--we tied up at the
Sangamon Chute, just below the mouth of that river. The day had been
very pleasant. During the night our old friend the South Wind returned,
but we were well moored and rode easily. The launch bumped a little, so
the doctor rose and moved it, setting the fenders, also. Rain, thunder
and lightning came, but secure in our floating home we were content.
Today the wind has pinioned us to the shore, though the sun is shining
and the wind not specially cold. The boys cut wood for the stove and
then went after ducks, returning at noon with a pair of mallards. The
new roof is tight, the stove draws well, and we ought to be happy, as
all are well. But we should be far to the south, out of reach of this
weather. We can see the whitecaps in the river at the bend below, but an
island protects us from the full sweep of wind and wave.
Regular trade-wind weather, sun shining, wind blowing steadily, great
bulks of white cloud floating overhead, and just too cold to permit
enjoyable exposure when not exercising.
* * * * *
Friday, Nov. 13, 1903.--This thing grows monotonous. Yesterday we set
out and got to Browning, a mile, when the wind blew us ashore against a
ferry boat that was moored there, and just then the engine refused to
work. We remained there all day. The wind was pitiless, driving us
against the boat till we feared the cable would break. We got the anchor
into the skiff and carried it out to windward as far as the cable
reached, and then drew in till there were five feet between the
ferryboat and ours. In half an hour the anchor, firmly embedded in
tenacious clay, had dragged us back to the boat and we had again to draw
in cable by bracing against the ferry.
At 2 p. m. the wind had subsided, and after working with the engine till
4 we got off, and drew down a mile beyond the turn, where we would be
sheltered. We moored with the anchor out up stream, and a cable fast
ashore at the other end, lying with broadside up stream to the current,
and a fender out to the shore. This fender is made of two two-by-fours
set on edge and cross pieces let in near each end. The boat end is tied
to the side and the shore end rams down into the mud. While at dinner
the _Bald Eagle_ came up, but we hardly noticed her wash. Moored thus,
far enough out to avoid snags, we are safe and comfortable. But if too
close in shore there may be a submerged snag that when the boat is
lifted on a wave and let down upon it punches a hole in the bottom or
loosens a plank.
The night was quiet. We had our first duck supper, the boys getting a
brace and a hunter at the fish house giving us two more. They had
hundreds of them, four men having had good shooting on the Sangamon.
This morning it is cool and cloudy, the wind aft and light, and the boys
are coaxing the engine. If we can get a tow we will take it, as there is
some danger we may be frozen in if we delay much longer.
* * * * *
Saturday, Nov. 14, 1903.--Despite the hoodoo of yesterday, Friday the
13th, we got safely to Beardstown before lunch, in a drizzle of rain
that turned to a light snow. Temperature all day about 35. After lunch
we started down and passed La Grange about 4:30 p. m. Probably this was
a town in the days when the river was the great highway, but stranded
when the railways replaced the waterways. There is a very large frame
building at the landing, evidently once a tavern, and what looks like an
old street, with no houses on it now. The tavern is propped up to keep
it from falling down. No postoffice. We tied up about a mile above the
La Grange lock, so that we may be ready to go through at 8 a. m. We hear
that the locks are only opened to small fry like gasolines at 8 a. m.
and 4 p. m., and it behooves us to be there at one of those hours. Just
why a distinction should be made between steamers and gasolines is for
officialdom to tell.
* * * * *
Twice yesterday the launch propeller fouled the towrope, once requiring
the knife to relieve it. This accident is apt to occur and needs
constant attention to prevent. We arranged two poles to hold up the
ropes, and this did well. It is good to have a few poles, boards and
various bits of timber aboard for emergencies. Heavy frost last night,
but the sun is coming up clear and bright, and not a breath of wind. We
look for a great run today if we manage the lock without delay. The
quail are whistling all around us, but we are in a hurry. The _Bald
Eagle_ passed down last evening, running quite near us and sending in
big waves, but thanks to our mooring, we were comfortable and had no
bumping. The water does no harm; it is the shore and the snags we fear.
We were told that we would find the lockmen at La Grange grouty and
indisposed to open the locks except at the hours named above; but this
proved a mistake. They showed us the unvarying courtesy we have received
from all canal officials since starting. They opened the gate without
waiting for us. They said that in the summer, picnic parties gave them
so much unnecessary trouble that they had to establish the rule quoted,
but at present there was no need for it. The day is decidedly cool and a
heavy fog drifting in from the south.
At Meredosia at 11 a. m., where Dr. Neville kindly assisted us to get a
check cashed. Found a youngster there who "knew gasoline engines," and
by his help the difficulty was found and remedied. Laid in supplies and
set out for Naples. Weather cool, but fog lifted, though the sun refused
to be tempted out.