CONDITION OF THE ISLAND IN 1849.
We first went up to a bluff, about half a mile from the boat-landing,
where we spent an hour in exploring the ruins of the fortifications
built by the Chilians in 1767. There was nothing left but the foundation
and a portion of the ramparts of the principal fort, partly imbedded in
banks of clay, and neatly covered with moss and weeds. It was originally
strongly built of large stones, which were cast down in every direction
by the terrible earthquake of 1835; and now all that remained perfect
was the front wall of the main rampart and the groundwork of the fort.
Not far from these ruins we found the convict cells, which we explored
to some extent.
[Illustration: PLAN OF THE CONVICT CELLS.]
These cells are dug into the brow of a hill, facing the harbor, and
extend underground to the distance of several hundred feet, in the form
of passages and vaults, resembling somewhat the Catacombs of Rome.
During the penal settlement established here by the Chilian government,
the convicts, numbering sometimes many hundreds, were confined in these
gloomy dungeons, where they were subjected to the most barbarous
treatment. The gates or doors by which the entrances were secured had
all been torn down and destroyed, and the excavations were now occupied
by wild goats, bats, toads, and different sorts of vermin. Rank fern
hung upon the sides; overhead was dripping with a cold and deathlike
sweat, and slimy drops coursed down the weeds, and the air was damp and
chilly; thick darkness was within in the depths beyond--darkness that no
wandering gleam from the light of day ever reached, for heaven never
smiled upon those dreary abodes of sin and sorrow. A few of the inner
dungeons, for the worst criminals, were dug still deeper underground,
and rough stairways of earth led down into them, which were shut out
from the upper vaults by strong doors. The size of these lower dungeons
was not more than five or six feet in length by four or five in height,
from which some idea may be formed of the sufferings endured by the poor
wretches confined in them, shut out from the light of heaven, loaded
with heavy irons, crushed down by dank and impenetrable walls of earth,
starved and beaten by their cruel guards, with no living soul to pity
them in their woe, no hope of release save in death. We saw, by the aid
of a torch, deep holes scratched in one of the walls, bearing the
impression of human fingers. It might have been that some unhappy
murderer, goaded to madness by such cruel tortures of body and terrible
anguish of mind as drive men to tear even their own flesh when buried
before the vital spark is extinct, had grasped out the earth in his
desperation, and left the marks in his death agonies upon the clay that
entombed him, to tell what no human heart but his had suffered there, no
human ear had heard, no human eye had witnessed. The deep, startling
echo breaking upon the heavy air, as we sounded the walls, seemed yet to
mingle with his curses, and its last sepulchral throb was like the
dying moan of the maniac.
[Illustration: CONVICT CELLS.]
Some time before the great earthquake, which destroyed the
fortifications and broke up the penal colony, a gang of convicts,
amounting to three hundred, succeeded in liberating themselves from
their cells. Unable to endure the cruelties inflicted upon them, they
broke loose from their chains, and, rushing upon the guards, murdered
the greater part of them, and finally seized the garrison. For several
days they held complete possession of the island. A whale-ship,
belonging to Nantucket, happening to come in at the time for wood and
water, they seized the captain, and compelled him to take on board as
many of them as the vessel could contain. About two hundred were put on
board. They then threatened the captain and officers with instant death
in case of any failure to land them on the coast of Peru, whither they
determined to go in order to escape the vengeance of the Chilian
government. Desirous of getting rid of them as soon as possible, the
captain of the whaler ran over for the first land on the coast of Chili,
where he put them ashore, leaving them ignorant of their position until
they were unable to regain the vessel. They soon discovered that they
were only thirty miles from Valparaiso; but, short as the distance was
from the Chilian authorities, they evaded all attempts to capture them,
and eventually joined the Peruvian army, which was then advancing upon
Santiago. The remainder of the prisoners left upon the island escaped in
different vessels, and were scattered over various parts of the world.
Only a few of the entire number engaged in the massacre were ever
captured; sentence of death was passed upon them, and they were shot in
the public plaza of Santiago.
[Illustration: CHILIAN HUTS.]
Turning our steps toward the settlement of the present residents, we
passed a few hours very agreeably in rambling about among their rustic
abodes. The total number of inhabitants at this period (1849) is
sixteen, consisting of William Pearce, an American, and four or five
Chilian men, with their wives and children. No others have lived
permanently upon the island for several years. There are in all some six
or seven huts, pleasantly surrounded by shrubbery, and well supplied
with water from a spring. These habitations are built of the straw of
wild oats, interwoven through wattles or long sticks, and thatched with
the same, and, whether from design or accident, are extremely
picturesque. The roofs project so as to form an agreeable shade all
round; the doorways are covered in by a sort of projecting porch, in the
style of the French cottages along the valley of the Seine; small
out-houses, erected upon posts, are scattered about each inclosure; and
an air of repose and freedom from worldly care pervades the whole place,
though the construction of the houses and mode of living are evidently
of the most primitive kind. Seen through the green shrubberies that
abound in every direction, the bright yellow of the cottages, and the
smoke curling up in the still air, have a very cheerful effect; and the
prattling voices of the children, mingled with the lively bleating of
the kids, and the various pleasant sounds of domestic life, might well
lead one to think that the seclusion of these islanders from the busy
world is not without its charms. Small patches of ground, fenced with
rude stone walls and brushwood, are attached to each of these primitive
abodes; and rustic gateways, overrun with wild and luxuriant vines, open
in front. Very little attention, however, appears to be bestowed upon
the cultivation of the soil; but it looks rich and productive, and might
be made to yield abundant crops by a trifling expenditure of labor. The
Chilians have never been distinguished for industry; nor is there any
evidence here that they depart from their usual philosophy in taking the
world easy. Even the American seemed to have caught the prevailing
lethargy, and to be content with as little as possible. Vegetables of
various kinds grow abundantly wherever the seeds are thrown, among which
I noticed excellent radishes, turnips, beets, cabbages, and onions.
Potatoes of a very good quality, though not large, are grown in small
quantities; and, regarding the natural productiveness of the earth,
there seemed to be no reason why they should not be cultivated in
sufficient quantities to supply the demands of vessels touching for
supplies, and thereby made a profitable source of revenue to the
settlers. The grass and wild oats grow in wonderful luxuriance in all
the open spaces, and require little attention; and such is the genial
character of the climate, that the cattle, of which there seems to be no
lack, find ample food to keep them in good condition both in winter and
summer. Fig-trees, bearing excellent figs, and vines of various sorts,
flourish luxuriantly on the hill-sides. Of fruits there is quite an
abundance in the early part of autumn. The peaches were just out of
season when we arrived, but we obtained a few which had been peeled and
dried in the sun, and we found them large and of excellent flavor. Many
of the valleys abound in natural orchards, which have sprung from the
seeds planted there by the early voyagers, especially by Lord Anson, who
appeared to have taken more interest in the cultivation and settlement
of the island than any previous navigator. The disasters experienced by
the vessels of this distinguished adventurer in doubling Cape Horn
caused him to make Juan Fernandez a rendezvous for the recruiting of his
disabled seamen, and for many months he devoted his attention to the
production of such vegetables and fruits as he found useful in promoting
their recovery; and having likewise in view the misfortunes and
necessities of those who might come after him, he caused to be scattered
over the island large quantities of seeds, so that, by their increase,
abundance and variety of refreshments might be had by all future
voyagers. He also left ashore many different sorts of domestic animals,
in order that they might propagate and become general throughout the
island, for the benefit of shipwrecked mariners, vessels in distress for
provisions, and colonists who might hereafter form a settlement there.
The philanthropy and moral greatness of these benevolent acts, from
which the author could expect to derive little or no advantage during
life, can not be too highly commended. If posthumous gratitude can be
regarded as a reward, Lord Anson has a just claim to it. How many lives
have been saved; how many weather-worn mariners, bowed down with
disease, have been renewed in health and strength; how many unhappy
castaways have found food abundantly where all they could expect was a
lingering death, and have been sustained in their exile, and restored at
last to their friends and kindred, through the unselfish benevolence of
this brave and kind-hearted navigator, no written record exists to tell;
but there are records graven upon the hearts of men that are read by an
omniscient eye--a history of good deeds and their reward, more eloquent
than human hand hath written.
Besides peaches, quinces, and other fruits common in temperate climates,
there is a species of palm called _Chuta_, which produces a fruit of a
very rich flavor. Among the different varieties of trees are corkwood,
sandal, myrtle, and pimento. The soil in some of the valleys on the
north side is wonderfully rich, owing to deposits of burnt earth and
decayed vegetable matter washed down from the mountains. There is but
little level ground on the island; and although the area of tillable
soil is small, yet by the culture of vineyards on the hill-sides, the
grazing of sheep and goats on the mountain steeps, and the proper
cultivation of the arable valleys, a population of several thousand
might subsist comfortably. Pearce, the American, who had thoroughly
explored every part of the island, told me he had no doubt three or four
thousand people could subsist here without any supply of provisions from
other countries. A ready traffic could be established with vessels
passing that way, by means of which potatoes, fruits, and other
refreshments could be bartered for groceries and clothing. Herds of wild
cattle now roam over these beautiful valleys; fine horses may be seen
prancing about in gangs, with all the freedom of the mustang; goats in
numerous flocks abound among the cliffs; pigeons and other game are
abundant; and wild dogs are continually prowling around the settlement.
The few inhabitants at present on the island subsist chiefly upon fish,
vegetables, and goat-flesh, of which they have an ample supply.
Boat-loads of the finest cod, rockfish, cullet, lobsters, and lamprey
eels can be caught in a few hours all around the shores of Cumberland
Bay, and doubtless as plentifully in the other bays. Nothing more is
necessary than merely the trouble of hauling them out of the water. We
fished only for a short time, and nearly filled our boat with the
fattest fish I ever saw. Had I not tested myself a fact told me by some
of the passengers of the Brooklyn regarding the abundance of the smaller
sorts of fish, I could never have believed it--that they will nibble at
one's hand if it be put in the water alongside the boat, and a slight
ripple made to attract their attention. This is a remarkable truth,
which can be attested by any person who has visited these shores and
made the experiment. There is no place among the cliffs where goats may
not be seen at all times during the day. They live and propagate in the
caves, and find sufficient browsing throughout the year in the clefts of
the rocks. Lord Anson mentions that some of his hunting parties killed
goats which had their ears slit, and they thought it more than probable
that these were the very same goats marked by Alexander Selkirk thirty
years before; so that it is not unlikely there still exist some of the
direct descendants of the herds domesticated by the original Crusoe. The
residents of Cumberland Bay have about their huts a considerable number
of these animals, tamed, for their milk. When they wish for a supply of
goat-flesh or skins (for they often kill them merely for their skins),
they go in a body to Goat Island, where they surround the goats and
drive them over a cliff into the sea. As soon as they have driven over a
sufficient number they take to their boat again, and catch them in the
water. Some of them they bring home alive, and keep them till they
require fresh meat. Nor are these people destitute of the rarer luxuries
of life. By furnishing whale-ships that touch for supplies of water and
vegetables with such productions as they can gather up, they obtain in
exchange coffee, ship-bread, flour, and clothing; and lately they have
been doing a good business in rowing the passengers ashore from the
California vessels, and selling them goatskins and various sorts of
curiosities. They also charge a small duty for keeping the spring of
water clear and the boat-landing free from obstructions, and sometimes
obtain a trifle in the way of port charges, in virtue of some pretended
authority from the government of Chili.
The shores of Juan Fernandez abound in many different kinds of marine
animals, among which the chief are seals and walruses. Formerly sealing
vessels made it an object to touch for the purpose of capturing them,
but of late years they have become rather scarce, and at present few, if
any, vessels visit the island for that purpose.
[Illustration: WALRUS, OR SEA LION.]
Situated in the latitude of 33 deg. 40' S., and longitude 79 deg. W., the
climate is temperate and salubrious--never subject to extremes either of
heat or cold. In the valleys fronting north, the temperature seldom
falls below 50 deg. Fahr. in the coldest season. Open at all times to the
pleasant breezes from the ocean, without malaria or any thing to produce
disease, beautifully diversified in scenery, and susceptible of being
made a convenient stopping-place for vessels bound to the great
northwestern continent, it would be difficult to find a more desirable
place for a colony of intelligent and industrious people, who would
cultivate the land, build good houses, and turn to advantage all the
gifts of Providence which have been bestowed upon the island.
The only material drawback is the want of a large and commodious harbor,
in which vessels could be hauled up for repairs. This island could
never answer any other purpose than that of a casual stopping-place for
vessels in want of refreshments, and for this it seems peculiarly
adapted. The principal harbors are Port English, on the south side,
visited by Lord Anson in 1741; Port Juan, on the west; and Cumberland
Bay, on the north side. The latter is the best, and is most generally
visited, in consequence of being on the fertile side of the island,
where water also is most easily obtained. None of them afford a very
secure anchorage, the bottom being deep and rocky; and vessels close to
the shore are exposed to sudden and violent flaws from the mountains,
and the danger of being driven on the rocks by gales from the ocean. In
Cumberland Bay, however, there are places where vessels can ride in
safety, by choosing a position suitable to the prevailing winds of the
season. The chart and soundings made by Lord Anson will be found useful
to navigators who design stopping at Juan Fernandez.