large bundle of fodder, and a kind of paring instrument, called a
_koorpah_, wherewith to cut the grass, about half an inch under the
surface of the soil: the upper part of the root being considered
extremely nourishing. No hay is ever seen in India; nor would it answer
that purpose nearly so well as the common expedient of paring it for
daily consumption. The Maharrattahs, it is true, make a coarse kind of
hay, wherewith to feed their large bodies of horse at certain seasons;
but the condition of their cattle in general by no means recommends such
a measure in private studs. Nevertheless, that practice has its
advantages, for while our cavalry horses would starve for want of green,
or succulent fodder, the less delicate Maharrattah charger plucks at any
old thatch with great readiness; and even on such diet will perform
wonders. I have always thought that our public cattle were too highly
pampered; at least, that the mode of feeding them by no means
corresponded with that ready adoption of any kind of coarse foraging,
which might become necessary under the most ordinary circumstances of a
campaign: a pig will gradually become dainty, and rather starve than
return to its former coarse provision. The practice of soaking _gram_
for cavalry horses, is peculiarly objectionable; as not only causing
them to expect it at all times, even when water (much less soaking-pots)
cannot be had in any quantity; but inducing most horses to swallow the
grains whole, without mastication. In my humble opinion, the whole of
the grain supplied to cavalry horses ought to be reduced to a coarse
meal, mixed with hay, and straw, in equal quantities, cut very fine in a
chaff-trough.
It may be readily supposed, that when a camp has been settled for a few
days, on even the most luxuriant verdure, the whole must disappear: it,
however, speedily springs again after the first fall of rain, presenting
a beautiful light-colored blade, very small, and of rapid growth. The
kind of grass prepared for horses, is the _doob_, or _sun-grass_, nearly
corresponding with our fine creeping-bent. This should be well beat with
a stick, and be washed before used; if kept for a day or two in an airy
place, it is supposed to be more wholesome, than when given immediately
after being cut, as is generally done. The _doob_ is not to be found
every where; but, in the low countries about Dacca, Mahomedpoor, &c.
where the inundation is general during near three months every year,
this grass abounds; attaining to a prodigious luxuriance! I have often
seen it full two feet and a half high, absolutely matting the ground.
Cattle are turned into it promiscuously, and never fail to thrive. It
appears curious, that in a part where, during the rains, nothing is to
be seen of the soil; the little villages built on eminences being the
only discernible objects, if we except the tops of large trees staring
out of the water; no provision should be made for the maintenance of the
cattle; which, at such times, depend entirely on what can be drawn up by
means of forked poles, from, perhaps, a depth of twenty feet. This green
food, highly impregnated with moisture, surely cannot be wholesome at
such a season for these poor animals, which are then cooped up in the
hundreds of boats that surround every village! Whereas, if the _doob_,
such as I have described, were to be cut, and stacked in the month of
February, when it is in high perfection, and the atmosphere moderately
warm, there might certainly be provided a more appropriate, and less
hazardous, species of fodder. But the truth is, that cattle are, in
every part of India, left, so long as possible, to shift for themselves:
and this, notwithstanding that a load of the finest hay in the world
might be made in the low countries for about half-a-crown; even
admitting that labor were paid for!
It gives me very great pleasure to observe, in the Gentleman’s Magazine,
for February, 1809, that a grass has been discovered in Ireland, called
the _fiorin_, which perfectly corresponds with the _doob_ of Hindustan.
This invaluable plant stands the severest cold of Iceland, as well as it
does the scorching heats of tropical summers. In the latter instance,
the verdure certainly disappears; but the root remains unimpaired, and
abounds with succulence. I feel no hesitation in asserting, that if the
_fiorin_ be what it is described, namely, the _doob_ of Hindostan, it
will prove an invaluable acquisition to the British agriculturist. A
rich grass that will stand either heat or cold, or immersion for many
successive months, cannot fail to abridge our catalogue of Georgic
desiderata. The _doob_ is rarely sown in India; but, after being cut
below the surface by the tool in common use among grass-cutters, called
a _koorpah_, is chopped with a hatchet into pieces about two or three
inches in length, when, being mixed with mud, it is plastered on the
surface of the plot where it is intended to remain; the plot being
previously saturated with water. In a very few days, the _doob_ will be
seen to vegetate, especially if care be taken to keep the mud moist for
a short time. This grass is likewise well suited for transplanting, by
which operation very large plots are sometimes turfed. The stems all
throw out roots at every joint that is suffered to touch the ground; but
when very thick, and abundant, it is disposed to tower and spindle, not
unlike our pink and carnation plants. If set in small tufts, at a foot
asunder, they will soon cover the surface.
The _Mauly_, or gardener, next claims attention. The dress of this
servant, unless he be at the head of a large establishment, is scarcely
better than that of a common laborer; nor are the wages much higher;
four rupees being a very common rate, though sometimes as much as six,
or seven, are given to men of superior ability, that understand some
particular culture of moment to the employer. Those who act under the
_maully_ are, for the most part, _bildars_, hired by the day, probably
at five or six pice, equal to about two rupees and a half monthly. These
_bildars_ work with a kind of mattock, called a _phourah_, consisting of
a blade, about as large as that of a common garden-spade, furnished with
a very strong eye at the top, rivetted to the blade, and set on so as to
give the handle a direction of about 70° from the plane of the blade,
which is slightly curved inwards. The handle may be about thirty inches
in length, and is driven nearly through the eye, where it is
occasionally wedged, to keep the blade from turning upon it; as would be
the case, on account of the eye being round, were it not made very
tight. While working with a _phourah_, the _bildar_ stands in the same
position as if using a pick-axe: throwing up whatever soil may
accumulate at each stroke. When the tool is new, much may be lifted in
this manner; but when worn down nearly to the eye, the most active
laborer cannot effect much more than might be done by an ordinary
bean-hoe. Those _maullies_ who serve gentlemen, are usually provided
with rakes and hoes; but, in any other situation, they content
themselves with using short iron spuds, set into wooden handles, the
stem being cranked, and the whole rarely exceeding eighteen inches in
length: with these they beat the clods to pieces, and level the surface
admirably: but, of course, not so quickly as our gardeners. With the
same kind of tool, though of a smaller size, they dig up weeds; keeping
the garden remarkably clean; and, under proper observation, raising an
immense quantity of vegetables.
It would surprize an European to see with what precision _maullies_ sow
and cover their seeds; the seasons for which they are perfectly
acquainted with, even though the greater portion of the horticultural
produce in that quarter consists of exotics: this is the more
remarkable, because there is no book of gardening extant in the Hindui
language; and if there were, the chances would be, at least a thousand
to one, that the _maully_ could not read it.
The greater part of the manure used in gardens is known by the name of
_kallah-matty_, (_i.e._ black-earth,) and is collected from such places
as are set apart for the reception of filth of all sorts. Horse-dung,
cow-dung, &c. are generally too much valued to be appropriated to the
soil: these are almost invariably preserved carefully; and, being made
into a mass, are formed into cakes, between the hands, about the size of
a plate; while moist, they are stuck up against some wall exposed to the
sun; where, in a day or two, they become thoroughly dry, and make an
excellent kind of fuel, burning very like good peats. These _guttees_,
as they are called, are generally prepared by the _syce’s_ wife, and
kept in a stack for culinary purposes.
The gardens of Europeans are, with few exceptions, laid out much in the
same way as our kitchen-gardens; having one main walk, with a few
ramifications and parallels, all of which are covered with _soorkee_, or
brick-dust; though sometimes, where gravel, or rather shingle, can be
found, it is used in preference. The whole area is intersected by little
channels made of earth, or perhaps lined with semi-circular tiles,
whereby water is conveyed to every part at pleasure. The peculiar
gratification afforded to the eye, and, indeed, to the feelings, by the
proximity of perpetual verdure, in a country where, for many months
together, scarcely a green spot is to be seen, induces most persons,
when laying down a garden, to appropriate such a piece of ground as may
be in view, to the formation of a grass-plot. This is refreshed every
third or fourth day by laying on water from the well, always made on
some more elevated spot, so as to command every part to which the
irrigation is to extend. The _doob_ is invariably selected for this
purpose; and, in consequence of its numerous seeds, as well as owing to
the cool shelter it affords, never fails to attract great numbers of
ants, of various colors and sizes; all of which are a perfect nuisance
throughout the East. Gentlemen who rear turkies, find from experience,
that few can be brought up except where such grass-plots exist; and
where shade, and water, are at hand for the birds to avail themselves of
at pleasure.
Most of our garden esculents thrive in India; cabbages, cauliflowers,
lettuces, celery, beets, carrots, turnips, peas, cucumbers, French
beans, radishes, potatoes, &c. are cultivated in abundance; together
with capsicums, love-apples, egg-plants, gourds of various kinds,
calavanses, yams, sweet potatoes, and hundreds of the indigenous tribe.
The common fruits are guavas, peaches, nectarines, grapes, a few apples,
but no pears, melons of sorts, pine-apples, mangoes, oranges, citrons,
limes, pomegranates, byres of a very huge kind, comringahs, (or winged
apples,) currindahs, and, in general, most of the tropical fruits.
Within the last twenty years, very considerable additions have been made
by the introduction of various trees, and also of gardeners, from China:
the former have thriven admirably; while, to the latter we are indebted
for many valuable practices, common among that industrious people, and
which promise to contribute greatly to the perfection of Asiatic
horticulture. The best of _maullies_ could not be ranked with the least
capable among the Chinese gardeners; though it cannot be denied, that
they possess many strong recommendations; and are not a little proud of
any improvements, or novelties, committed to their management. In the
art of irrigation they cannot be surpassed. That indispensable operation
is performed, in most instances, by drawing water from a narrow well,
into a cistern, or hollow, at its edge; whence, by means of the channels
before described, each bed receives the necessary supply of moisture. A
pair of very small oxen, worth about twelve or fifteen shilling’s each,
suffice to draw up a _moot_, or leather bag, containing from twenty-five
to thirty gallons.
In general, a small hut is erected in the garden for the accommodation
of the _maully_; most of whose operations are performed after sun-set:
especially that of laying on water, and the setting of plants.
Rat-catching is also an object of importance, and most successfully
followed during moon-light nights; when those large black rats, called
_bandycoots_, equalling most cats in bulk, are often speared, as they
ramble among the cucumber and melon beds, wherein they make prodigious
havoc. Nor is there any deficiency of other sorts, or sizes, of rats:
they are to be found both in immense numbers, and in every variety; but
the large Norway rat is most abundant. I never saw, nor heard of a mole
in the country: most probably the soil does not suit; as it becomes so
hard and dry during the hot season.
The _Aub-dar_, or water-cooler, is scarcely less indispensable than the
cook; for, without the exercise of his art, all the delicacies of the
table would be of no value. Hot wine, and hot water, are by no means
acceptable to those who inhale so rarefied an atmosphere; and who
generally prefer such made-dishes as abound in spice. It is true, that,
sometimes, a _khedmutgar_, or a _bearer_, may be found, capable of
cooling liquors nearly as well as _aub-dars_ of the lower class; but
such are rare, and cannot always be depended upon. In saying this, I do
not mean to attribute the success of even the best qualified _aub-dar_
to any chemical knowledge, or to much comprehension of the manner, or
moment, in which the refrigeration takes place: far from it; they are
all the children of imitation, and by keeping within certain parallels,
wide enough asunder, hit upon their object; though not without much loss
of materials, as well as of time.
The apparatus necessary for the operations of this servant, consist of a
large pewter vessel, near half an inch in thickness, and in its form not
unlike a very thick Cheshire cheese, of which the edges are much rounded
off. At the top, a circular aperture, about a foot in diameter, is left,
for the introduction of two pewter flasks, (each containing about a pint
and a half,) of a spherical form, and furnished with long narrow necks,
nearly cylindrical, about ten inches in length, and fitted with caps, of
the same metal, that come down about an inch and a half, every where
close. The great bason just described is called a _taus_, and the flasks
are called _soories_. When water is to be cooled, about a gallon is put
into the _taus_; which, by means of a small wooden frame, made for the
purpose, or, for want of it, a few bricks, &c. is sloped a little, that
the water may lie more towards one side: a handful or two of salt-petre
is then put in, and the _soories_, being about two thirds filled with
the water to be drank, are moved about in the _taus_, one in each hand,
while the salt-petre is dissolving. So soon as that is effected, which
is usually in two or three minutes, the _soories_ are laid at rest;
their necks projecting out at the opposite side of the aperture, the
sphere part being immersed, and a wet cloth laid over the whole of the
opening: in that manner the intense cold, generated by the solution,
acts upon the water within the _soories_; so effectually indeed, in many
instances, as to be unpleasantly condensed. As to cracking the glasses,
that is extremely common, but is rather to be imputed to their being
somewhat heated by the atmosphere; when the cold water, being suddenly
poured in, causes nine in ten, so acted upon, to fly. Wine is always
cooled in the common glass bottle wherein it is drawn from the cask, and
so soon as taken from the _taus_, which may be in about five minutes
after being left at rest, is covered with a petticoat made of _karwah_,
or other cloth, well wetted. Being placed in a stand made of turned
wood, to receive the drippings, the bottle is placed on the table;
usually stopped with a silver-mounted cork. Decanters are rarely used in
any part of India; both because they are extremely subject to crack,
and, that they certainly do not keep wine so cool as the common glass
bottles do.
The dress of the _aub-dar_ generally resembles that of the _khedmutgar_,
and his wages may rank with the superior classes serving in that
capacity: he has, in general, some perquisites, both in charging for
more salt-petre than is used, and from the sale of the salt-petre water;
which, throughout Calcutta, and in many other places, is carefully
preserved in large jars, to be sold to persons who boil it down for the
purpose of producing the nitre in a more purified state. _Aub-dars_
should not be allowed to cool water within the house; the salt-petre
doing considerable injury to the walls, from which it cannot possibly be
extracted.
Wherever a gentleman dines, thither his _aub-dar_ repairs, in time to
have water cooled as the dinner is served up: when a large party are
assembled, it is curious to see perhaps two dozens of these servants,
laboring at their profession under the shade of the house, and making a
noise not very dissimilar to the quick motion of a stone-saw. Custom
occasions it to pass unheeded, unless so far as relates to the
anticipation of a cool draught. It should be remarked, that water is the
common beverage: the smallest hole in the bottom of a _soories_ utterly
spoils it; therefore the defect must be well closed with solder. All the
wine used at the table is cooled by the host’s own servant; though, when
any particularly famous _aub-dar_ is in attendance, he is often asked to
exert his skill: a request always complied with, in a manner fully
exhibiting that vanity pervades this, as well as other classes of
mortals.
The _Compadore_, or _Kurz-burdar_, or _Butler-konnah-sircar_, are all
designations for the same individual, who acts as purveyor, sometimes
under the orders of the master, but more generally of the _kansamah_,
who never fails to participate of the profits made by over-charges, and
by the receipt of _dustooree_, (or customary gift,) from the venders of
whatever may be provided for domestic, consumption. This servant may be
considered as appertaining to the order of _sircars_, of which he should
possess all the cunning, the smooth tongue, the audacious and
persevering effrontery, when maintaining a palpable lie, together with
that obsequiousness which should conciliate master, and make him believe
it! Without these, the _compadore_ could never thrive. The pay of such a
rogue is generally about four, or, at the utmost, five, rupees per
mensem; but that is comparatively no object, in any family where some
hundreds are spent in house-keeping. In order to aid the deception, he
invariably dresses so very meanly, as to claim our commiseration in
behalf of his apparent poverty: while, at the same time, it is probable
that, one way or other, he contrives to retain about an eighth part of
the money entrusted to his disbursement. The usual custom is, for the
_kansamah_ to enquire, during the evening, what is to be done in the
culinary department on the succeeding day: if the family dine abroad, no
directions are necessary; otherwise, fish, flesh, and fowl must be laid
in. As the best of the market is between day-light and sun-rise, after
which all the prime articles will have disappeared, the _compadore_ must
proceed with his catalogue of desiderata, attended by one or two
under-servants, (_mosaulchies_, _kalashies_, &c.) to purchase the
required articles. No time must be lost in returning home, at least
during the hot months; for such is the rapid progress towards
putrefaction, that I have more than once seen veal, which had been
killed after midnight, become perfectly offensive in ten hours,
notwithstanding every possible precaution was taken to keep it cool.
It will be understood, that a _compadore_ must, of necessity, be a good
accountant; like the _sircar_, he is well versed in fractions, and
carries his computations down to a single _gundah_ of _cowries_, (_i.e._
four _Blackamoors’ teeth_). This minuteness passes with many for
honesty; but by far the greater part of house-keepers either put those
very small parts out of the question, (regardless of the old saying,
that, ‘if the pence are well taken care of, they will nourish the
shillings; while the pounds acquire strength to take care of
themselves,’) or they content themselves with the reflection, that the
accounts are correctly taken, without even examining their contents.
Every charge thus becomes sanctioned when committed to paper; therefore
each knave is anxious to have his items noted, under the full
conviction, that, thenceforth, they are beyond the probability, if not
the possibility, of refutation. But such will never be effected, unless
a few of the filberts are, according to the old fable, dropped into the
_compadore’s_ bag; so as to diminish the bulk of the hand, and to allow
its retiring with the remainder of the booty. Not a _cowrie_ can stir
without the _compadore’s_ knowledge! Under the plea of fidelity to his
employer, he insists upon being privy to every disbursement; never
failing to preach up his own vigilance; and (which is the best of the
joke,) making a point of attending every morning with his hands full of
papers, and his ink-pot, &c., in readiness to give a detail of the
expences of the preceding day; though he perfectly knows that detail is
never attended to.
Let us not suppose that such deception is local: in other, or in
various, forms, we may find it throughout the world. Some, who boast of
the excellence of English menials, &c. may, perhaps, affect to believe
them to be less infected with such knavery as is above displayed; but an
appeal to that too correct history of the times, yclep’d ‘The Newgate
Kalendar,’ must remove every doubt of the instability of such an
exemption; and should assure us, that, whenever temptation solicits, and
opportunity favors, few, of any sect, color, or rank, have the virtue to
resist, provided the object be proportioned to the risk!
The _Hirkarah_ was, formerly, a servant used solely for carrying
expresses, or such letters, messages, &c. as were to be sent beyond the
circle of ordinary, or daily, communication: he was, in fact, what is
now commonly called a _cossid_. We have retained, however, the
designation of _dawk-hirkarahs_ for those who convey the _dawks_, or
posts. In every other instance, the duty of the _hirkarah_, as an
attendant upon a gentleman in office, &c. is similar to that of the
_peon_, or _piada_, or running footman. His pay is generally the same;
but the former usually bears a lacquered walking-stick, armed at its
extremity with a square spike, the ferule of which is ornamented with
dark-colored fringe, or tassels. This stick is carried over the
shoulder, and is the only distinction between the _hirkarah_ and the
_peon_: but, though the latter has no such insignia, he frequently
claims precedence, causing the _hirkarah_ to precede him in the retinue,
while attending their employer’s palanquin.
Both these servants, whose capacities are now perfectly blended, when
serving Europeans at least, receive from four to five rupees monthly. In
every respect, beyond the foregoing exceptions, they dress much the same
as _khedmutgars_, but generally have turbans and _cummer-bunds_ of the
same color, by way of livery; and, when in the employ of great
merchants, agents, and especially under the principal officers of the
government, wear belts of colored broad-cloth, with metal breast-plates;
bearing either the initials, or the arms, of their employers, or
inscriptions stating the offices to which they appertain. The generality
of such inscriptions have the English designation in the centre, with a
translation in the Persian, or the Bengallee, language, (perhaps both,)
around, on the margin, or _vice versâ_.
Many most extraordinary journies have been made by _hirkarahs_:
instances have been adduced of their travelling full a hundred miles in
the four and twenty hours.
The _Duftoree_, or office-keeper, attends solely to those general
matters in an office, which do not come within the notice of the
_crannies_, or clerks; such, for instance, as making pens, keeping the
ink-stands in order, ruling account books, and perhaps binding them,
preparing and trimming the lights, setting pen-knives, together with a
great variety of little jobs, easily performed by an individual allotted
thereto, but trenching deeply on the occupations of those engaged in
more connected and important business. The pay of the _duftoree_ may be
from four to six rupees monthly; though a few may receive rather more;
but such is unusual. The dress depends on the _cast_ of the individual:
if he be a Mussulman, it will correspond, in some measure, with that of
the _khedmutgar_; but, if a Hindu, it will, probably, assimilate with
that of the _cranny_.