sententiæ_;’ in that particular few are to be found of the same opinion:
and among those that are, probably more than half are under the grossest
deception. The little village of Bilsah, in the Maharrattah country, has
been long celebrated, and it should seem not without reason, for the
fragrance of the tobacco raised around it. But the quantity of tobacco
sold annually throughout Bengal, where it produces from thirty to sixty,
and even eighty rupees per maund, (if ascertained to be genuine,) is
known to exceed, full an hundred fold, the amount of any crop ever
raised at Bilsah. The substitutes are various, but one kind, raised in
the _Bundelcund_ district, supplies the greater portion; many, indeed,
are of opinion that it is not inferior. May not its excellence be owing
to the practice, common in that quarter, of sprinkling the plants at
harvest time with a solution of molasses? We know that many fruits yield
but little of their flavor, until excited by the saccharine acid: the
raspberry may serve to coroborate my position. I have known that very
cheap kind of tobacco, the _Cuggareah_, which ordinarily sells for about
four rupees per maund, (of 82 lb.) rendered so mellow, and so fragrant,
by being worked up with molasses, and kept in close vessels for some
months, as absolutely to be admired even by persons who prided
themselves on never smoking any but the true Bilsah!
The usual mode of preparing tobacco for the _hookah_, is by first
chopping it very small; then, adding ripe plantains, molasses, or raw
sugar, together with some cinnamon, and other aromatics; keeping the
mass, which resembles an electuary, in close vessels. When about to be
used, it is again worked up well; some, at that time, add a little
tincture of musk, or a few grains of that perfume, others prefer pouring
a solution of it, or a little rose water, down the _snake_, at the
moment the _hookah_ is introduced: in either case, the fragrance of the
tobacco is effectually superceded; giving ample scope for the
_hookah-burdar_ to serve up rank _mundungus_, (as bad tobacco is
termed,) in lieu of the supposed, or perhaps the real, _Bilsah_.
The _hookah-burdar_ rarely fails to smoke of the best his master may at
any time possess; which, however highly perfumed, will rarely be strong
enough for his gratification: the deficiency is supplied by the
admixture of _bang_; a preparation from the leaves of the _ganjah_, or
hemp, (the _cannabis sativus_,) and is extremely intoxicating. The
leaves of that plant, when triturated with water, compose a drink of the
same tendency, known by the name of _subzy_, (_i.e._ green,) which is a
constant beverage among the more established sinners, who rarely fail,
towards nightfall, to take an ample dose, of either _bang_, _subzy_, or
_majoom_: the latter being sweetmeats impregnated with a decoction of
the _ganjah_, or hemp plant, much used by all debauchees, and too often
admitted within the sacred area of the _zenanah_, (or haram). The use of
any preparation of the _ganjah_, or hemp plant, is attended with much
opprobrium: like most intoxicating drugs and spirits, they, in the first
instance, excite to gaiety, but ultimately leave their victim in the
most deplorable state of stupefaction; the recovery from which is
attended with dreadful headache, ill temper, and hypochondria. Some
_hookah-burdars_ indulge freely in the use of musk, which never fails,
after a while, to produce considerable derangement of the nerves; and,
not unfrequently, that complete debility which is ever attended with the
greatest depressure of spirits.
A very common species of debauchery, in which I have known only one or
two gentlemen to indulge, is the incorporation of opium with the
prepared tobacco, previous to its being spread upon the _towah_; a
custom so repugnant to discretion, as to leave little room for
animadversion, the folly being usually of very short duration, and,
intermediately, attended with the most abject degradation. Many native
princes, and others, who have been hurled from their thrones, or from
offices of trust, are said to have been treacherously overcome by means
of opium thus administered: it appears to me very practicable, by such a
device, to lull a whole guard to sleep; for few can resist the offer of
a whiff when the _goorgoory_ (a small kind of _hookah_ used by the lower
classes) is passing round. Among such trash as is generally sold to the
poor, who care not much about the flavor, so long as they can draw
abundance of smoke, the opium would probably, if at all tasted, rather
give a zest, than prove an objection, to the indulgence. It is asserted,
that if a capsicum be put among the _gools_, or be mixed with the
tobacco, fatal consequences will ensue; an instant attack of apoplexy
taking place. This I have never known to be done; therefore am incapable
of producing any testimony, one way or the other: but it appears rather
doubtful whether any reasoning, or analogy, could be adduced in support
of the assertion; the acrid stimulus would, in all probability, be
dissipated, rendering the residue as inert as any other raw culinary
vegetable. Admitting it to be true, that a capsicum can produce such an
effect, a very strong argument against smoking may be adduced: no man
would, altogether, relish the idea of being so perpetually in the power
of a debauchee, who might, either through resentment, or by a small
bribe, be induced to bestow a _quietus_, without the possibility of a
discovery. In such case, the _hookah-burdar_ would have all the
advantages of an inimical cook, without the danger of his narcotic being
detected.
However complicated the _hookah_ may appear, it is, nevertheless,
extremely easy of construction. I have been told, that one has been made
in England; and I have seen a few in use, that were brought from Bengal.
The preparation of the tobacco with apples, in lieu of plantains, is
equally simple and approved. The _kaleaun_, or small kind of _hookah_,
used on the west coast of India, is certainly commodious: it has a
larger bottom, in general, than the Bengal _hookah_; though I have seen
some very small, with beautiful imitations of flowers, and of coral,
shells, &c. within them.
Some of the real Persian _kaleauns_ exhibit considerable ingenuity, and
taste, on the part of their manufacturers. In the centre of the
interior, bunches of flowers, beautifully colored, far too large, and
too delicate, to have been introduced at the embouchures of the vessels,
may be seen. Over these, the glass, which is rarely of the best quality,
though far superior to any I have seen of Hindostanee formation, has
evidently been cast, or blown. Many of these artificial bouquets are,
however, made piece-meal, as I discovered by examining their
construction, after their exterior cases had been accidentally broken:
such were found to consist of a cone of rosin firmly cemented to the
bottom of the _kaleaun_, by heat; it appeared that the several leaves,
branches, flowers, birds, &c. were introduced one after the other, in a
heated state, and applied to the rosin, in which they buried themselves
sufficiently to retain a firm hold. I likewise ascertained that some
models of Persian architecture were combined in the same manner; while,
on the other hand, others, especially small figures of great personages,
seated on thrones, elephants, &c. were never subjected to that device:
in the latter instance, some grapes were, however, joined in the manner
above described.
The _goorgoory_ is a very small kind of _hookah_, intended to be
conveyed in a palanquin, or to be carried about a house; the person who
smokes holding a vase-shaped bottom by its neck, and drawing through a
stiff, instead of a pliant, pipe, formed of a reed, arched into such a
shape as should conduct its end conveniently to the mouth. In this, the
pipe is rarely more than a yard in length: it is an implement very
generally used by the middling classes of natives; and especially among
the women in _harams_.
The _neriaul_ is nothing more than a cocoa-nut, with the pipe-stem
thrust through a hole at its top, and a piece of reed, about a cubit
long, applied to another hole rather lower down. The nut-shell, being
half filled with water, the air, or rather the smoke, we might suppose
would be cooled; but, from observation, I much doubt whether any change
takes place in the temperament of either. These little _hookahs_, (for,
however paltry, their owners do not omit to give them that designation,)
are often used without any reed to conduct the smoke; the lips being, in
that case, applied to the small lateral aperture into which the reed
should be fitted. One of these usually serves half a dozen men, who pass
it round with great glee: it often forms an appendage about the feet of
a palanquin, if the opportunity offers for securing it there, without
master’s knowledge.
The dress of a _hookah-burdar_, in the service of a gentleman of rank,
approaches nearly to that of a _chobe-dar_; a _jamma_ being generally
worn by such, but, in more humble situations, the _courtah_ of a
_khedmutgar_ is common. In the former situation, his office is confined
entirely to the _hookah_; while, in the latter, he is generally expected
to wait at table, at least, on occasion; but wherever the master, of
whatever rank, may go, thither the _hookah-burdar_ is expected to
proceed, so as to furnish the pipe in due season after dinner, or at any
other time it may be required. The ordinary periods for smoking, are,
after breakfast, after dinner, after tea, and after supper: such may be
deemed regular; and, if no more than two or three charges are used, at
each time, are by no means considered extraordinary. I have already
stated, that some gentlemen smoke day and night.
In such a climate, water is, during four months, at least, the main
spring of existence, both in the animal, and the vegetable, kingdom;
consequently, its supply becomes a profession, giving bread to
thousands. The person officiating in this capacity, if provided with a
bullock for the purpose of conveying two large leather bags, each
containing about twenty gallons, is called a _Puckaully_; but if he
carries the water himself, in the skin of a goat, prepared for that
purpose, he then receives the designation of _Bheesty_. The bags for a
_puckaully_ are made of strong hide, sewed very firmly at the front,
which is at right angles with the bottom, where the leather doubles,
and, consequently, has no seam; the back part, is diagonal, forming a
kind of spout behind, opposite the bullock’s knee; while the top is left
open, rather in a funnel form, for about a foot that the water may be
poured in: the spout is first rolled up, and then tied with a strong
strip of leather.
Every _puckaully_ carries also a small bag, that he may serve as an
ordinary ‘_hand-bheesty_’, when required. This is made of the skin of a
goat, taken off in a particular manner. Being put into a solution of
lime, the hair soon quits; when the inside fleshings are carefully
scraped off. A tan is then made of the bark of _baubool_, (mimosa),
_khut_, (catechu,) and alum.
_Bheesties_ are, with few exceptions, Mussulmans; it being contrary to
the Hindu code to touch either the carcases, or the skins, of animals
killed in any way. Hence, a Hindu of this profession is extremely rare,
and will seldom be discovered; owing to the necessity for change of
name, so as to pass for a Mussulman. Hindus will, nevertheless, drink of
the water supplied from the _mussock_, (or _bheesty-bag_); though they
are extremely partial to such as they can draw themselves, by means of a
line and metal pot, with which most travellers are provided. Some few
are, to be sure, extravagantly scrupulous, and will undergo excessive
thirst, rather than partake of the _bheesty’s_ supply. Dust, heat, and
fatigue, however, rarely fail, after a while, to overcome such ill-timed
fastidiousness. The _puckaullies_, or, as they are usually called, the
_bullock-bheesties_, replenish their bags by driving their cattle into
some _tank_, or pond, up to their knees, or even deeper, then baling in
the water, by means of a small leather bucket, holding about two quarts,
or more. The _hand-bheesty_ usually sinks his bag under water, when it
soon fills. When drawing water from the wells, the leather bucket,
called a _dole_, is used by both the _puckaully_ and the _hand-bheesty_.
The constant application of a wet skin to the cloaths on the hip,
necessarily disposes them to rot: on this account, most _bheesties_
provide themselves with a piece of cloth, called _karwah_, which, being
dyed in grain with a composition, whereof the solution of shell-lac
forms a large portion, resists the effects of the moisture, better than
any other substance in use for apparel. The wages of a _hand-bheesty_,
may be from four to five rupees, according to the agreement, whether he
is to furnish his own _mussock_, &c. which is the general mode. His
duty, during the cold season, and in the rains, is mere pastime; he has
then but little to do beyond the supply of water to horses, and filling
a few pots for culinary purposes, bathing, drinking, &c. all of which
might be done in half an hour. But in the summer months, his labors are
severe. Exclusive of the above requisitions, which are multiplied
ten-fold, he has to water the _tatties_, (or frames filled with grass,)
applied to the windward side of every house, for the purpose of cooling
the air; at that season not only uncomfortably hot, but absolutely
parching the skin of a person not habituated to its influence. By
day-break the _bheesty_ must begin to fill the several tubs, or immense
_nauds_, (pans) of earthen-ware, placed near the house; this being done,
he brings the _tatties_, and after wetting each thoroughly, as it lays
on the ground, places it against its respective aperture, supporting it
with props, and, during the whole day, indeed often till mid-night,
sprinkling it in every part; occasionally replenishing the vessels, as
their contents may be expended. Though it cannot be said to occur often,
yet, in some very dry seasons, it has been found necessary to continue
the _bheesties_ at their labor during the whole night. I recollect an
instance, in the year 1793, when the winds were, if any thing, hotter at
night than in the day time; rendering it absolutely necessary to keep
the _tatties_ up for a full week, or more; and demanding additional
_bheesties_, who performed the night duty.
All the houses in India are tarrased, not only on the basements, but on
every floor; therefore, previous to sweeping, the _bheesty_ sprinkles
the tarras slightly; thereby preventing the dust from rising when the
sweeper performs his part. He likewise waters the precincts of the
house, several times daily, but especially towards sun-set, when
gentlemen usually take their tea in the open air. If going any distance,
perhaps two or three miles, in their palanquins, during the prevalence
of the hot winds, it is common for persons of respectability to be
accompanied by their _bheesties_, who carry a small quantity of water in
their _mussocks_; therewith sprinkling the _tatties_ applied to the
sides of the vehicle; the interior, which but for this would be
insufferably hot, is thereby rendered fresh and cool. Those who do not
take _bheesties_ with them, have their _gutta-topes_, (or palanquin
covers,) which are ordinarily made of the _karwah_ before described,
well soaked in water before they set out: this, though not so effectual
as the foregoing mode, is no bad substitute.
Water, when dashed out from the end of a _mussock_, or _bheesty-bag_,
would be apt to penetrate into the interior of a palanquin; and as its
expenditure, while proceeding any distance, should be economically
managed, a very simple device is in use, which effectually answers every
purpose; namely, the introduction of a small rose-head, similar to those
affixed to the spouts of garden watering-pots, which being firmly
secured within the neck of the _mussock_, by means of the leather throng
always attached to that part, divides the water more minutely, and
checks its too abundant supply; at the same time that it causes the
distribution to be more general and equal.
_Tatties_ are made of the roots of that long grass of which most of the
jungles in India consist, and which correspond exactly with the Guinea
grass, once so ridiculously sent to the East as a great acquisition; the
fibres are of a rusty brown color, devious in their direction, and may
be from ten to twenty inches in length: we see among us cloaths brushes,
and carpet brooms, made of it. The Hindostanee name is _kuss-kuss_, and
the general price may be about four rupees per maund, (of 82 lb).
The frame, in which this material is to be enclosed, is made of split
bamboo, chequered into squares, of about four inches each way, and in
the whole sufficiently extensive to overlap the exterior of the door, or
window, to which it is to be applied, at least six inches, or perhaps, a
foot, at the sides and above. The _kuss-kuss_ is then placed very
regularly on the bamboo frame, as it lies on the ground, in the same
manner as tiles; each layer being bound down, under a thin slip of
bamboo, extending the full breadth of the _tatty_. The great art is to
make the _tatty_ neither too thick, which would exclude the wind; nor
too thin, as it would then let the dust pass through, without rendering
the interior sufficiently cool. I found, after much experiment, that a
maund of _kuss-kuss_, applied so as to cover about a hundred square
feet, answered extremely well. But it is best to have one or two
_tatties_ made rather thin; so as to apply in case of light winds: when
it blows hard, these may be applied double; one at the back of the
other. At such times, the interior of a house will be very cool;
sometimes rather too much so; for the great evaporation caused by the
heated air’s passage through the cold medium, produces perfect
refrigeration.
In the western provinces, and other parts of India, _tatties_ are
frequently made of a short, prickly bush, that thrives during the
hottest months on sandy plains, especially in places inundated during
the rainy season. This shrub is called, _jewassah_; its leaves are not
unlike, but not so numerous, nor of so deep a green, as those of rue. It
is extremely prickly, being every where furnished with spines about the
size of a pin. When fresh, the _jewassah_ is most pleasing to the eye,
and its scent is equally agreeable; but, after the first day, its
verdure disappears, and the whole house is filled with its leaves, and
its thorns. Hence, the _kuss-kuss_, which, when fresh, is rather
fragrant, though the scent is somewhat terraceous, is usually preferred
in making those _tatties_ which roll up, so as to be particularly
applicable to palanquins, and are called _cheeks_; wherein nothing but
_kuss-kuss_ is ever employed: where this root cannot be procured, or
when in the early part of the hot season, little has come to market,
common grass, pared from the soil, or even small boughs, straw, &c. are
occasionally used to fill between two frames of bamboo: they answer
tolerably when well watered; but, on account of their disposition to
rot, soon become objectionable: _kuss-kuss_ will keep for years.
Very few _puckaullies_, or _bullock-bheesties_, are retained in the
service of individuals; such are usually attached to the establishments
of barrack-masters, and quarter-masters. They answer admirably for the
supply of water at the soldiers’ quarters, and at the hospitals; to
which _tatties_ are allowed, at the public expence, during the hot
season. In most cases, the bullocks that carry the water, as well as the
leather bags, appertain to the establishment, and the driver receives
only the pay of a _hand-bheesty_; where he supplies the whole, his pay
is from ten to twelve rupees per month.
The _Babachy_, or cook, is a servant who may fairly claim very
considerable approbation, since he prepares most sumptuous dinners,
although he never tastes any of the viands while in a state of
preparation; and is, besides, often put to his wits to guard against the
joint attacks of dust, wind, rain, sun, and birds of prey. In a regular,
settled family, it is true he may have every convenience afforded him;
such as a substantial and spacious kitchen, with fire-place according to
the Indian style; a range of stoves, a scullery, apparatus of all sorts,
&c. &c. But when on a march, the case is widely different; he must then
turn to with his mattock, and dig a number of holes, to receive his
fuel; which is usually green wood, or dried cow-dung; he must make
_choolahs_, or fire places, by placing three lumps of earth, kneaded
into a stiff paste, for each _choolah_, so as to support the boiler it
is to receive; he must burn his wood to embers, over which his meat is
to be roasted, by means of a small spit; perhaps made of slit bamboo,
but if of iron, with a crank at one end, whereby to turn it, as it rests
upon two _dogs_, or iron spikes, driven into the ground, a few feet
asunder; he must, in all probability, kill and flay a kid, or two or
three fowls; some for curry, others for roasting, &c.; and, perhaps,
after all, he may have to turn the spit himself; occasionally looking to
the contents of the several boilers, &c.
The fixed roasting place in a permanent kitchen is generally made of two
inclined bars of iron, about four or five feet in length, set sloping
against a wall, at an angle of perhaps forty degrees. Each of these bars
is furnished with eight or ten hooks, in any suitable pair of which the
spit is turned by a boy: the spaces under them, that is to say, the
triangle on each side, are filled with masonry, so that the heat may be
retained, and the embers be kept within certain bounds.
For roasting in this manner, the embers are divided lengthwise, leaving
a vacancy, or kind of trough, under the line of the spit, wherein a
metal platter is sometimes set, to receive the dripping, which is
returned to the meat by a bunch of feathers, (generally those from the
wings of the fowls just killed,) tied to the end of a short stick. This
little neat, _cleanly_, and cheap dripping-ladle, answers admirably; it
being in the power of the _babachy_ to baste any part with great
precision. I know not any thing in the culinary way, that proves more
uncomfortable to delicate stomachs than the sight of this part of the
process; unless it be the very common practice of preparing toast, by
means of melted butter laid on either with the above implement, or with
a piece of old rag! As for straining soup, &c. through dirty clouts,
that is considered as a matter of course; therefore, after a full
conviction that it is so, and that the soup is well flavored, very few
exceptions are made.
Notwithstanding such _unpicturesque_ operations, the dinner, when
brought to table, looks well, and tastes well: appetite, at that time,
supersedes daintiness, and prevents the imagination from travelling back
to the kitchen; though, to be sure, the number of flies at times found
in the sauces, will occasion a disposition to enquire how they got
there, and whence they came! These obnoxious visitors rarely fail to
visit the purlieus of the _balachy’s_ camp; where they assemble in
swarms; not only covering the garbage, which usually lies but a few
paces distant, but settling on the meat, or visiting the stew-pots, &c.
where they are overcome by the heat, or fixed by the dripping, &c. Flies
may, however, be picked out; but those shoals of dust that skim during
the middle of the day, often render the whole dinner absolutely
unacceptable. I have been in situations where, although a large table
cloth was spread over the knives, forks, &c. as laid for dinner, there
has been collected near a pound of sand underneath; while the upper
cloth was really covered full a quarter of an inch in depth: those who
have been stationed at Lucknow, during the hot season, cannot but
confirm my assertion. This never can be altogether obviated in moveable
camps; but, when fixed for a while, it is usual to set up mats, or
_konauts_, (which are walls of cloth, kept upright by ropes and sticks,)
on the windward side; whereby the inconvenience may be considerably
lessened: but sometimes a _b’hoot_, or whirlwind, comes suddenly, and
not only be-grits the whole of the cookery, but whisks away the fences,
embers, &c. in an instant!