[Illustration: Map of
BRADDOCK'S MILITARY ROAD
FROM
CUMBERLAND, MD. TO BRADDOCK, PA.
1755.
_Compiled by John Kennedy Lacock 1912._]
BRADDOCK ROAD[1]
By JOHN KENNEDY LACOCK
On September 24, 1754, Major-General Edward Braddock was appointed by
the Duke of Cumberland, captain-general of the British army, to the
command of the British troops to be sent to Virginia, with the rank of
generalissimo of all his Britannic Majesty's forces on the American
continent. Before the expedition could start, however, many weeks had to
be spent in extensive preparations, a delay which became so irksome to
Braddock that he determined to wait no longer on the tardy movement of
the transports. Accordingly, on December 21, 1754, accompanied by
Captain Robert Orme, one of his aides, and William Shirley, his military
secretary, he set sail for Virginia with Commodore Augustus Keppel, and
on February 20, 1755, anchored in Hampton Roads. It was not till January
14, 1755, that the rest of the ships were actually under sail, and not
till about March 15 that the entire fleet arrived at Alexandria,
Virginia, where the troops were disembarked and temporarily
quartered.[2]
[Illustration: ROBERT ORME
AID-DE-CAMP]
Meanwhile General Braddock had been busy making the necessary
preparations for the expedition against Fort Duquesne. As a matter of
first importance, he had written to the governors of the several
provinces asking them to meet him in council at Alexandria; and to the
five who responded to his invitation on April 14 he submitted various
proposals, to which they in turn made formal answer.[3]
Already, however, two days prior to the conference with the governors,
the advance column of the army, after much delay caused by the lack of
horses and wagons, had set out from Alexandria. The first objective
point was Wills Creek,[4] to which the two regiments of the army
proceeded by different routes, Sir Peter Halket's through Virginia via
Rock Creek and Winchester, Colonel Thomas Dunbar's through Maryland via
Fredericktown and thence across the Conogogee and into a road five miles
north of Winchester. From this point both divisions seem to have marched
over the same road to Fort Cumberland.[5] Still further delays were
occasioned by the want of wagons and horses for transportation, as well
as by the lack of provisions; but by the 19th of May practically all the
forces were encamped at the fort, a total of some 2100 men. It had thus
taken twenty-seven days to march from Alexandria to Fort Cumberland, a
distance of 180 miles; and, one may remark in passing, all the delays up
to this point had been occasioned by circumstances over which Braddock
had practically no control. He did not reach Fort Cumberland himself
till May 10.[6] Then he lost no time in giving his attention to the
three matters which were of greatest significance to the success of his
expedition,--(1) the Indian question, (2) the arrangements about wagons
and provisions, (3) the construction of a road through Pennsylvania to
serve as a means of connection with the base of supplies.
Of Braddock's relations with the Indians there are many conflicting
stories; but a careful examination of the most trustworthy accounts will
convince an impartial investigator that there is no basis in fact for
the charge, often made, that his conduct toward them was impolitic and
unjust. On the contrary, it is difficult to find a single fair criticism
that can be made against him on this score. However one may account for
the circumstance that but eight of them accompanied the expedition, it
seems to be practically certain that this small number was not due to
the fact that the Indians had not received every reasonable
consideration from the English general.
In providing the horses, wagons, and supplies necessary for the
undertaking, Braddock was ably assisted by Benjamin Franklin, whose
extraordinary efforts, tact, and courage called forth his warm
appreciation. "I desired Mr. B. Franklin, postmaster of Pennsylvania,
who has great credit in that province," he wrote on June 5, "to hire me
one hundred and fifty wagons and the number of horses necessary, which
he did with so much goodness and readiness that it is almost the first
instance of integrity, address, and ability that I have seen in all
these provinces."[7]
In the solution of his third problem, that of constructing a road
through Pennsylvania in order to have an adequate avenue for securing
supplies, Braddock was less successful. He quickly recognized the
importance of having the road cut west of the Susquehanna in order to
intersect with the route of the army at a place called indifferently
Turkey Foot, Crow Foot, or the three forks of the Youghiogheny (at what
is now Confluence[8]); and he had the satisfaction of seeing the work of
building this road prosecuted with great diligence by Governor Morris of
Pennsylvania. Unfortunately for Braddock, however, it proved to be
impossible to complete the road in time for it to be of any service to
him in the expedition.[9]
From Fort Cumberland westward Braddock had to make a road for his
troops across mountains divided by ravines and torrents, over a rugged,
desolate, unknown, and uninhabited country. The history of the
construction of this road and a description of its course it is the
purpose of this paper to set forth; for the growing interest with which
the routes of celebrated expeditions are coming to be regarded, and the
confusion that attends the tracing of such routes after a lapse of
years, make it altogether fitting that the road by which the unfortunate
Braddock marched to his disastrous field should be surveyed, mapped, and
suitably marked while it is yet possible to trace its course with
reasonable definiteness.
In any discussion of this subject three things should be borne clearly
in mind: (1) the irregular topography and mountainous nature of the
country through which the road had to be built, for there were as many
as six ranges of the Alleghanies to be crossed, besides other mountain
elevations and passes that presented as great and serious difficulties;
(2) the wooded character of the country; (3) the fact that the road had
to be constructed by the soldiers of the army. It is noteworthy that the
road which Braddock made followed very closely the course of the
so-called Nemacolin Indian trail,[10] and that it was used as a pioneer
road as far west as Jumonville until late in the first quarter of the
nineteenth century.
On May 30 a detachment of six hundred men commanded by Major Russell
Chapman set out to clear a road twelve feet wide from Fort Cumberland to
Little Meadows, twenty miles away; but in spite of some work previously
done on Wills Mountain, just west of the fort, they had so great
difficulty in passing the elevation that on the first day they got but
two miles from the starting-place. In the process, moreover, three of
their wagons were entirely destroyed and many more shattered.[11]
Of the road from old Fort Cumberland to the foot of Wills Mountain no
trace can be found today, but it seems probable that its course lay
along what is now Green Street in Cumberland. There is, however, just as
good and as direct a route from the camp by way of Sulphur Spring
Hollow, past the present Rose Hill cemetery, with an easy, ascending
grade to the ridge of the spur of Wills Mountain, and so on to a point
at or near the intersection of the Sulphur Spring, Cresaptown, and
Cumberland roads.[12] Something might be said in support of this route.
Nevertheless, the former was the direct way to reach the fording at
Wills Creek, the old trading-post at this point; and it was the way best
known to the Indians.
At the foot of the mountain the road proceeds westerly, parallel to the
Cumberland Road but ninety feet north of it, to a point opposite the old
Steel House.[13] At this spot the first depression or scar of the
Braddock Road can be seen today.
A short distance farther on, the road enters the wooded part of Wills
Mountain. At a distance of about four hundred feet westward it veers
away to the north from the old Cumberland Road, following to the top of
the mountain a succession of absolutely straight lines, no one of which
varies more than five degrees from the preceding line. Thence the course
bears to the south and joins the Cumberland Road opposite the old
Steiner House (now owned by Frederick Lang) in Sandy Gap,[14] about a
mile and a half from the junction with the Cresaptown road. To this
point the route may be traced with very little difficulty. From Sandy
Gap it follows the present course of the old Cumberland Road for about
seven-tenths of a mile,[15] crossing the George's Creek and Cumberland
Railroad and the Eckhart branch of the Cumberland and Pennsylvania
Railroad, to the house now occupied by Edward Kaylor, 380 feet from the
latter railroad crossing. Here the line leaves the old Cumberland Road
and runs due west four-tenths of a mile, passing under the front or
southwest corner of the new house recently built by William Hendrickson,
then fording Braddock Run in Alleghany Grove south of Lake View Cottage,
thence running through Alleghany Grove to the Vocke road 440 feet south
of its intersection with the National turnpike and 700 feet north of the
now abandoned part of the old Cumberland Road, and keeping on still in
the same straight line 1100 feet westward to the turnpike.
So great was the difficulty experienced by the advance party in passing
this mountain that General Braddock himself reconnoitered it, and had
determined to put 300 more men at work upon it when he was informed by
Mr. Spendelow, lieutenant of the seamen,[16] that he had discovered a
pass by way of the Narrows through a valley which led round the foot of
the mountain.[17] Thereupon Braddock ordered a survey of this route to
be made, with the result that a good road was built in less than three
days, over which all troops and supplies for Fort Cumberland were
subsequently transported.[18]
Every endeavor of the writer and his party to locate this new road
through the Narrows and round Wills Mountain proved fruitless. Of
approaches from Fort Cumberland to the Narrows over which an army with
baggage trains could pass, four, and only four, were possible.[19] (1)
One could cross Wills Creek at the ford or bridge near its mouth;[20]
and then go up the left or eastern bank of the stream;[21] (2) one could
pass down the decline back of the present Alleghany Academy to the
creek, and then follow the shore on either side, fording at the most
convenient point; (3) one could go down the sloping ground northward
from the fort, reaching the creek about where the cement mill now
stands, and then go up the creek as in the second route;[22] (4) one
could follow Fayette street and Sulphur Spring valley to the cemetery,
and thence turning abruptly to the right go down a little valley to the
Narrows, where a crossing of the creek would be immediately necessary. A
high bluff, or "stratum," running down to the very water's edge of the
creek on the right bank of the stream at the eastern entrance to this
gap makes it almost unquestionable that the beginning of the pathway
through the Narrows was on the left, or eastern, bank of Wills
Creek.[23] The question is, did this pathway follow the left bank of the
stream through the entire length of the gap, recrossing the creek near
the month of Braddock Run; or did it recross it in the Narrows near the
present location of the bridge over Wills Creek on the National
turnpike, and thence follow the course of the turnpike to the western
terminus of the Narrows? Judged by present conditions, the latter view
seems the more probable; but it is impossible to do more than make a
shrewd guess, for the construction of three separate railroads through
this narrow valley has completely altered the banks of the creek and
obliterated all traces of the road. In favor of the former contention it
should be said that, within the memory of some of the older and more
trustworthy citizens of Cumberland, there has been opportunity for the
easy construction of a road on the left, or eastern, bank of Wills
Creek.[24] Furthermore, at the entrance of the Narrows from the western
end the stratum of hard white sandstone formerly extended to the waters
of the creek.
Although the ground between these two obstructions to the Narrows on
its right bank might have afforded a good roadbed, yet undoubtedly they
proved to be obstacles that Braddock's engineers, with the appliances
which they had at hand, could not easily surmount. It is well known to
the older residents of Cumberland that as late as 1873 the mass of
boulders at the eastern end of the gap, lying along the right bank of
the stream, were in their primitive condition when a wagon road was
constructed by George Henderson, Jr., to join the Cumberland road on
that side of Wills Creek. On the contrary, the left bank presented no
such difficulties in the way of road-building; and a careful examination
of the ground through the entire length of the gap cannot fail to
convince one that in Braddock's day there was opportunity for the easy
construction of a road on that side.
After leaving the gap the road turned into the valley of Braddock Run;
but the difficulty of finding present traces of it at this point seems
almost insuperable on account of the character of the valley itself. The
methods employed by Braddock's engineers in laying out the road indicate
that its course was probably that afterwards followed by the National
turnpike to a point near the northwest corner of the Alleghany Grove
Camp Ground,[25] just beyond which and south of the turnpike is a
distinct hollow or trench. The neighborhood of Alleghany Grove was
unquestionably the place of the first encampment, Spendelow Camp.[26]
From the point of intersection with the National turnpike, one-fourth
mile west of Alleghany Grove, the Braddock Road keeps north of the
turnpike on somewhat higher ground to escape swampy land; thence, in
order to avoid the point of a hill (or perhaps it would be more accurate
to say a spur of Piney Mountain), it crosses the turnpike to the
southward, and after running parallel to it for about 150 yards
recrosses it to the northward at or near the point where the present
trolley line intersects it. Here there is a well-preserved scar for
almost a mile to the point where the road joins the National turnpike
near the six-mile post. The route then follows along the north side of
the turnpike, crossing Braddock Run, a little to the north of the
bridge;[27] thence running westerly north of the Six Mile House, it
recrosses Braddock Run, and a few rods beyond passes between the house
and barn of Charles Laber. On this farm there is a copious spring of
excellent water, locally known as Braddock Spring,[28] situated about
175 feet south of Braddock Road, and according to local tradition
marking the site of Spendelow Camp. That this theory is altogether
unlikely, however, is shown not only by the fact that the tradition does
not harmonize with the best authorities, but also by the topography of
the country and the lack of sufficient and suitable ground for an
encampment. That an advance party may have spent the night at or near
this fine spring is not improbable, but the natural place for the camp
was in the neighborhood of Alleghany Grove Camp Ground.[29]
Less than a quarter of a mile west of Charles Laber's house Braddock
Road again crosses Braddock Run; thence turning almost due south in
order to avoid a rocky ascent over which no road could be built, it
comes into the National turnpike about a mile west of the old
toll-house. From this point it coincides with the turnpike for 225 feet;
then it veers away to the north for some rods and turns west, crossing
the county road known as the Short Gap road about fifty yards north of
its junction with the turnpike, and passing the house now owned by John
Laber. A short distance west of this point it crosses the turnpike and
the Eckhart branch of the Cumberland and Pennsylvania Railroad in order
to avoid a very deep hollow, and joins the pike again four hundred feet
farther on. After following the old turnpike for about one hundred feet
it veers away again to the north of it at Spruce Bridge for about
three-quarters of a mile, passing Smith's Big Rocks, and joining the
turnpike again less than quarter of a mile east of Clarysville. From
Alleghany Grove Camp Ground to Clarysville there are only a few short
stretches where traces of the road cannot be distinctly seen, and in
some places the scar is nearly ten feet deep.
At Clarysville the road turns into the valley of Flaggy Run, apparently
following the west bank of the stream,[30] along which there is a deep
depression formed by an old mill race that might easily be mistaken for
the road itself. About half a mile southwest of Clarysville the road
turns almost at a right angle, keeping approximately the course of the
present county road for three-quarters of a mile up Hoffman Hollow.
Here again, running parallel to the present road, is an old tramway
roadbed which might readily be taken for Braddock's path. A short
distance beyond the Hoffman coal mines, on the north side of the road,
is a very deep scar, which is probably a part of Braddock's roadbed. At
the top of the hill the road turns northward at almost a right angle in
order to avoid what was formerly a very wide swamp, and then passes over
the ridge and down through Layman's orchard, where there is a deep scar.
Near the end of this ridge, overlooking Frostburg and about five miles
from Spendelow Camp, is the site of the second encampment, Martin's
Plantation.[31]
From here the road crosses first the headwaters of the eastern branch of
George's Creek, next the Cumberland and Pennsylvania Railroad, and then
runs southeast of Frostburg into the premises of James Grose, and on
through the Sheatz, Taylor, and William Tiley properties to Braddock
Park. About 350 feet north of this park is an old milestone, which is
supposed by some writers to have been set up by Braddock.[32] Leaving
Braddock Park the line follows the Midlothian road for about four
hundred feet; but, soon entering a lane, it crosses the western branch
of George's Creek east of an old spring-house standing near the ruins of
the old Musselman farmhouse, and bearing the inscription "C. & S.
Musselman, May 30th, 1806." At this point, one-fourth mile west from
Braddock Park, the ascent of Big Savage Mountain begins. Although there
are some level spots on the western slope of the mountain, the ascent of
more than two miles is very steep and rocky, and the cut is several feet
deep in places.[33] The descent for a half mile or more is also very
rugged and in places extraordinarily steep.[34] On the east and west
slopes the traces of the route are very distinct.
At the foot of the mountain the road unites with a highway a little to
the east of Andrew Jackson Moore's stone house, and continues with it
for nearly half a mile, when it apparently turns into a private or
secondary road for about another mile to a point where there is a
favorable place for fording Savage River, the last water that empties
itself into the Potomac.[35] Near a schoolhouse on the north bank of
Savage River and a short distance west of the mouth of Carey Run the
road begins a very steep ascent of Little Savage Mountain. From this
point to the Henry Blocher farm, a little over a mile westward, the
course of the road follows closely that of a private way, on either side
of which there are for short intervals very clear signs of the location
of Braddock Road. From various indications it seems reasonable to
conclude that the farm of Henry Blocher, with the adjoining one of
George Blocher, marks the location of Braddock's third encampment,
Savage River Camp.[36] There is a local tradition that about five
hundred yards west of the Henry Blocher farm a skirmish with the Indians
took place, and that near a clump of trees east of Blocher's house some
British soldiers were buried.[37]
From the Henry Blocher farm the line follows the general course of a
private road westward for about a mile, crosses Mudlick Run to Read
Anderson's house, and thence leads up a rather formidable hill, on which
Braddock's engineers appear for the first time to have made use of a
winding path as a means of ascent. From this hill the road runs by very
favorable ground in a nearly straight line to the corner of a wood, and
then on through the woods to a township road, which it crosses at a
point about a quarter of a mile from the National turnpike. Proceeding
in the same straight line westward less than quarter of a mile, it
reaches and crosses the turnpike to the north. It was at or near this
intersection that the first brigade probably encamped on June 15.[38]
From this point to some woods less than a quarter of a mile westward
there is no trace of the road, but through these woods there is a
well-marked scar for over half a mile to Two Mile Run. Near this stream
are the renowned "Shades of Death," once a deep forest the tops of whose
towering trees intertwined.[39] From the "Shades of Death" the road
passes up Red Ridge, crossing another road a few rods to the north of a
house now occupied by Henry Meerbach;[40] thence it runs to Wolf Swamp
and Red Run,[41] and on to the foot of Meadow Mountain.[42] On the east
and west slopes of this mountain the cuts, from six to ten feet deep,
are for long distances clearly perceptible. On the western slope the
beautiful estate of Little Meadows, now owned by D. F. Kuykendall, of
Cumberland, marks the location of the fourth encampment.[43]
A short distance from Little Meadows the road crosses Chestnut Ridge.
Thence proceeding westwardly, it intersects the National turnpike about
one mile east of the Little Crossings bridge over the Castleman River,
runs through the farm of Eli Stanton, where there is a very clear scar,
and then crosses the Jennings Brothers' railroad.[44] A quarter of a
mile farther westward it intersects the National turnpike near Stanton's
old mill; but, after following the turnpike very closely for a few rods,
it veers off to the south, crossing the Castleman River about three
hundred yards above the Little Crossings bridge, near a point locally
known as Hickory Hole. On the west side of the river the road veers away
to the southwest, and a few rods from the fording enters some woods, in
which the scar is well marked. Thence turning westward it passes about a
quarter of a mile south of Grantsville, and continues in an
approximately straight line to Shade Hill, which shows a scar as deep as
any on the mountain ranges previously mentioned.[45] At the foot of the
western slope of this hill the road crosses Big Shade Run; and a short
distance westward, near Little Shade Run, it passes the house and barn
now owned by John P. Miller. This was the place of the fifth encampment.
At this point, in plain view of the National turnpike, the road begins
the ascent of Negro Mountain. Following a distinct trace for about a
mile, the traveller reaches the farm now owned by G. W. Shaw. The road
passes north of his house; and, at a point a quarter of a mile to the
westward and about the same distance south of the National turnpike, it
intersects a country road which extends northward to the turnpike.
Continuing from this point in the same straight line, it crosses the
turnpike one-fourth of a mile west of a milestone which bears the
inscription "104 to Wheeling To Frostburg 16." Up the mountain for a
distance of less than a mile the scar of the road is clearly seen, as
far as the north fork of Spiker Run on the eastern slope. From this
point, again, the line is easily followed westward for more than half a
mile, until it passes immediately south of the Oak Grove or Mennonite
church; but from here to the place at which it intersects the National
road on the eastern slope of Negro Mountain, at a lane east of the house
of H. C. Butler, there are but slight traces.
Along this lane for half a mile through slightly rolling depressions the
road runs on to Puzzley Run, and after fording the run passes with a
distinct scar north of a vacant log house over a very difficult pass to
a lane east of William Augustine's house, and thence along this lane for
several rods to the house, which is built on the very roadbed itself and
less than one hundred yards from the National turnpike. From Augustine's
house the line runs parallel to the turnpike, but a few rods south of
it, for over two miles to Coon Spiker's house, showing here and there
traces of the road that are more or less distinct. Apparently passing
south of this house and on through a lane to the south of Stephen
Spiker's house, it presently, a little to the westward, enters a stretch
of woods, through which it proceeds over Keyser Ridge, where, although
there is a very luxuriant growth of underbrush, the trace of the road
for a little over two miles is so distinct as to leave no doubt in
regard to its course over this rocky and very difficult pass. From the
woods it emerges into the bottom of the north fork of Mill Run, less
than half a mile from the Pennsylvania and Maryland boundary line at
Oakton, Maryland.[46] Here, in one of the most picturesque places for an
encampment along the entire route, was Bear Camp.[47]
Leaving Bear Camp, the road, after crossing Mill Run, intercepts the
Pennsylvania boundary line, and a few rods farther on crosses the
National turnpike less than one-fourth of a mile west of Oakton. It then
continues its course over Winding Ridge, on which the traces of it are
especially well marked. On the west side of this ridge the line passes
north of an old milk house and of a stone house owned by William Miller.
About half a mile westward it joins the National turnpike, which it
follows for nearly six hundred feet, and then veers away in a northerly
direction through some woods, crossing the headwaters of Laurel Run near
an old chestnut tree, two hundred yards east of Edward J. Augustine's
house. From this point to Addison, a little over a mile distant, the
road parallels the turnpike less than quarter of a mile to the north of
it.
From Addison the course westward for nearly two miles to John
Augustine's house is well defined, though only here and there does one
find noticeable scars of the road. Before reaching John Augustine's
house one comes to Jasper Augustine's estate, where there was formerly
on Braddock Road an old hotel known as the Old Granny Welsh House, of
which nothing now remains but a few foundation stones. The exact
location of the point at which Braddock Road crosses the National
turnpike west of John Augustine's house is not quite clear; but the line
seems to turn almost due south less than three hundred yards west of his
house, winding round a hill and then passing through a lane to Jacob
Miller's house.[48] A short distance southwest of this house it strikes
north of the north branch of Braddock Run, and about half a mile beyond
comes to the forks of the run. Between these forks, and possibly a short
distance westward, is the ground which formed the seventh encampment,
called Squaw's Fort.[49]
From this point the road follows Braddock Run to its mouth, fording
(without bridging) the Big Crossings of the Youghiogheny at or near the
mouth of Braddock Run, about half a mile above where the National road
now crosses the river.[50] Keeping on down the west bank of the stream,
it begins a sharp ascent of Wolf, or Turkey Garden Hill, at a point
opposite Somerfield, and follows the northern side of this hill for some
distance before entering Jockey Hollow. The slope of the hill is very
steep and the scar distinctly marked; but from Jockey Hollow onward
through the valley of Potter Run there are almost no traces of the road.
After keeping a little way up this run through the valley of Stuck
Hollow, the line turns at almost a right angle to follow the course of a
small run leading to Second River Hill, which is less than two hundred
yards south of the National road. At the beginning of the ascent on the
eastern slope of this hill, just at the entrance to some woods, are
three distinct scars that eventually converge into one road, which runs
down the western slope and a little farther on passes less than ten rods
south of the house of Isaac M. Thomas.[51] A short distance westward
from his house the line runs to the north of the house of A. M. Thomas,
thence into a township road, then on past Charles Umble's residence to
that of B. F. Miller, and a little way from this place enters the woods
on Division Ridge. No other part of the old Braddock Road presents such
difficulties as this section of it over Division Ridge, for the
underbrush is so thick in places that one is compelled to crawl on hands
and knees in order to keep the road. The slopes are very rocky and the
passes are exceedingly difficult, but with plainly marked scars. At the
western foot of this ridge was situated the camp of the Twelve Springs,
which Orme designated as "the camp on the east side the Great
Meadows."[52]
From this point the road, after passing through some woods for over a
mile and a half, crosses the Haydentown road near the house of Isaac
Savage. About a quarter of a mile west of this place there is a large
bog or swamp, a hundred or more yards across, which, if one may judge
from present conditions, the expedition probably skirted to the north,
and then went on westward in almost a straight line for about a mile and
a half till it came to the present township road. From the camp of the
Twelve Springs to this place one has very little difficulty in following
the old road; but from this point onward for a little over a mile no
distinct traces can be found. The most probable inferences, however,
support the local tradition that the line coincides with the township
road for a few rods, then crosses it north of an old burying-ground, to
the east of which formerly stood an old hotel, and then, immediately
rejoining it, coincides or closely parallels it for a distance of less
than half a mile. At this point the road enters the farm of W. H.
Hansel, and, proceeding in a northwesterly direction, presently enters a
strip of woods, passes the old Bishop house (unoccupied), and then runs
down Hager Hill south of James Bishop's, a quarter of a mile south of
Fort Necessity.[53] For a mile and a half from the James Bishop house
the road can be very accurately followed to the point at which it
intersects the National turnpike,--a point, it may be noted, about a
stone's throw south of the spot where lie the mortal remains of General
Braddock.[54] At this intersection the road leaves the turnpike never
again to rejoin it, and turns somewhat to the northwest in order to gain
a favorable pass over Chestnut Ridge, the last mountain ridge to be
crossed. About a quarter of a mile northward from Braddock's grave was
"the camp on the west side of the Great Meadows," the Orchard Camp.[55]
[Illustration: SITE OF FORT NECESSITY
FROM PAINTING BY PAUL WEBER, 1854]
A short distance from this camp the road runs south of Nemacolin's
Wigwam,[56] and a few rods northward near a schoolhouse enters the
wooded part of Chestnut Ridge, on the eastern slope of which it passes
the spot called Peddler's Rocks. On the western slope a sort of
transverse road, the traces of which are easily followed except for
about a quarter of a mile, was cut to join a township road near the
house of John Henry Rankin, three miles and a half from Braddock's
grave. A few rods distant on the west side of the township road are the
Half King's Rocks, better known as the Great Rock, where the old camp of
the Half King was located; and close by these rocks and south of the
road is "Washington Springs," the place of Braddock's tenth encampment,
called Rock Fort,[57] two miles south of Dunbar's camp.
From Washington Springs the line follows the course of the present road
for about a mile, with distinct marks at intervals along the sides; it
then continues in a northerly direction eastward of the present road to
a point east of Jumonville and of Jumonville's grave.[58] From here it
keeps its northerly course along a very narrow crest of the mountain,
past the Honey Comb Rock, and thereafter in the main follows the
dividing line between North Union and Dunbar townships to a point about
one mile south of the old Meason house on the Gist Plantation, when by a
slight deflection northwestward it crosses Cove Run and the Pennsylvania
Railroad to Gist's Plantation, the place of the eleventh encampment.[59]
Between the tenth and eleventh encampments the traces of the road are so
plain that one does not have to rely on inference.
The last mountain barrier had now been passed. Along this narrow road,
cut but twelve feet wide and with the line of march often extending four
miles at a time, the army had toiled on day after day, crossing ridge
after ridge of the Alleghany Mountains, now plunging down into a deep
and often narrow ravine, now climbing a difficult and rocky ascent, but
always in the deep shadow of the forest. On such a thoroughfare, running
between heavily-wooded forests on either side of the road and made still
narrower and often several feet deep by usage, it was of course
impossible for a vehicle coming in the opposite direction to pass; but
on nearly all the mountain ranges, and especially in the low grounds,
there were wider places where by some kind of signals or by some
preconcerted understanding the packtrains and wagons, which frequently
moved in caravans, could meet and pass one another. Thenceforward,
however, the character and general aspect of the country were noticeably
different. The land of active coal developments, including coke ovens,
had been reached. For many miles to the northward the traveller passes
over a vast extent of country from under which the coal has been taken,
and from which the props have given way in many places, leaving deep and
treacherous holes. Such crevices are especially frequent from Prittstown
to a point east of Mount Pleasant, a circumstance which in some places
materially interferes with the relocation of Braddock Road.
Leaving Gist's Plantation the line runs abruptly to the northward,
evidently keeping the higher ground to a point about a quarter of a mile
east of Leisenring, where it turns into the valley of Opossum Run and
follows the stream to its mouth in the Youghiogheny. On the west side of
the Youghiogheny, near Robinson's Falls, was the place of the twelfth
encampment.[60] Although no trustworthy scars of the road from Gist's
Plantation to this point are discernible, there can be little doubt that
this was the line of march.[61]
Braddock forded the Youghiogheny at Stewart's Crossing, below the mouth
of Opossum Creek, to a point on the opposite side of the river above the
mouth of Mounts Creek, half a mile below Connellsville.[62] His next
encampment, which was on the east side of the fording, a mile north of
the mouth of Mounts Creek, cannot be definitely fixed; but most probably
it was on Davidson's land, southeast of the Narrows.[63] Between this
point and the battleground there were still some highlands to be
crossed, which, though trivial in comparison with the mountains already
traversed, were yet rugged enough to present serious difficulties to the
troops, already worn out with previous labors and exertions.
From the camp the road passes through the Narrows, evidently along the
present township road, until it strikes the boundary line between
Bullskin and Upper Tyrone townships. This it follows in a northeasterly
direction for a distance of some mile and a half, with a few noticeable
deflections from the present township road, to a point about half a mile
east of Valley Works. Here the course veers away to the northeast in
almost a straight line to Prittstown, either paralleling or coinciding
with the line between Bullskin and Upper Tyrone for the last mile or so.
Then, continuing in the same direction beyond Prittstown for a mile and
a half, it reaches the John W. Truxell farm (recently purchased by Elmer
E. Lauffer[64]), where on the night of July 1 the army seems to have
bivouacked in order that a swamp which extended for a considerable
distance on either side of Jacob's Creek might be made passable. From
the Truxell farm the line turns almost due north through the swamp,
crossing Green Lick Run, and thence keeping a straight line west of the
Fairview church to a point a short distance west of Hammondville. Here,
at a place called Jacob's Cabin, still on the east side of Jacob's
Creek, the army encamped. It must be admitted that very few reliable
traces of the road from Connellsville to this point were found by the
exploring party; but the topography of the country, the course of the
road as shown on the earlier maps, the testimony of Orme's journal and
of local tradition, all lead the writer to believe that the route
between these two points as here laid down is correct in the main.[65]
Braddock appears to have crossed Jacob's Creek a short distance west of
Pershing Station, on the Scottdale branch of the Pennsylvania Railroad
near the spot where Welshonse's mill formerly stood.[66] On this side of
the creek the road follows the township line a distance of one and
one-half miles to Eagle Street in Mount Pleasant, and while still within
the limits of the town crosses the Pittsburg and Mount Pleasant pike.
From Mount Pleasant the course for the next few miles is quite evidently
that of the township line between Mount Pleasant and Hempfield townships
on the east and north and East Huntingdon and South Huntingdon townships
on the west and south respectively. A portion of this line coincides
with the road now in use. About a mile north of Mount Pleasant is a very
deep scar in an old orchard on the John McAdam farm, a trace which
continues to be visible for some rods farther north on the same farm. A
little way beyond the point where the Braddock Road leaves the McAdam
farm there is also a marked depression for over five hundred yards on
the property of the Warden heirs. Extending a mile westward from the
intersection of the Mount Pleasant, Hempfield, and East Huntingdon
township lines is a great swamp of several hundred acres,[67] which the
road skirts to the eastward and then keeps on to the Edwin S. Stoner
farm, near Belson's Run, a tributary of Sewickley Creek. According to
local tradition, this farm is the site of the Salt Lick Camp, a view in
support of which there is much to be said.[68]
About a quarter of a mile from the Stoner farm the line crosses Belson's
Run southeast of Combato's store to a private or secondary road known as
Braddock's Lane, which it follows for three-quarters of a mile till it
meets a township road. From this point it keeps the present township
line to Sewickley Creek, at the point of intersection between Hempfield
and South and East Huntingdon townships, half a mile southwest of
Hunkers.[69] After crossing Sewickley Creek[70] the road veers away
northwest, showing a slight depression a little farther on, south of
David Beck's house. Continuing in practically the same straight line, it
apparently joins the boundary line between Sewickley and Hempfield
townships, and thence runs westward along this line to the D. F.
Knappenberger farm,[71] which offers all the requirements favorable for
a camp, and is probably the place of the sixteenth encampment, Thicketty
Run.[72]
From this place, which is about a mile southeast of old Madison, the
road seems to follow the township line northwestward; for southwest of
Madison there are some well-marked scars, and a short distance beyond
the town, near the fording of a run on the higher ground approaching the
Little Sewickley, there are more traces. After fording the Little
Sewickley it passes, still northwestward, through the John Leisure
farm,[73] showing on the top of the hill beyond and westward toward the
John C. Fox farm some trustworthy scars. At this point, about a mile
northwest of the Little Sewickley, it crosses a township road over some
falls between John C. Fox's house and barn, and thence with very
perceptible traces keeps on in the same straight line to the William B.
Howell farm. From a point one-fourth of a mile southeast of the Howell
house it follows the present clay road to a point as far beyond, and
thence continues westward to the Hezekiah Gongaware farm.[74] After
leaving this place the line is unquestionably that of the present
township road for about a quarter of a mile; then, going on in the same
direction, it passes about a quarter of a mile south of Byerly's
schoolhouse. At less than half a mile beyond the schoolhouse it joins
the present township road again, and thus continues to Circleville,
except for one short stretch of a few rods to the east of the road,
where there is a very clear depression. In Circleville the road seems to
pass east of Long Run church, and a few rods northwest of it crosses the
Pittsburg and Philadelphia turnpike. Here, in the neighborhood of
Circleville and Stewartsville, the army encamped again.
[Illustration: BRADDOCK'S BATTLEFIELD
FROM PAINTING BY PAUL WEBER, 1854]
At this point General Braddock, after causing an examination of the
country between the camp and Fort Duquesne to be made, abandoned his
design of approaching the fort by the ridge route, being deterred by the
deep and rugged ravines of the streams and by the steep and almost
perpendicular precipices to the eastward of Circleville and
Stewartsville.[75] Turning westward, therefore, at almost a right
angle at or near Stewartsville, possibly at Charles Larimer's barn, the
route strikes out in a shorter line coincident with the present county
road, undoubtedly following the course of this road for about a mile;
thence continuing in the same direction for a little over a mile along a
ridge on either side of which is a narrow valley, it intersects the
White Oak Level road about half a mile east of the boundary line between
Alleghany and Westmoreland counties. From this point it follows
naturally down the valley of Long Run, past what was Samson's old
mill,[76] and across Long Run at or near the present bridge to a point
about two and a half miles westward, where the army encamped at a very
favorable depression now known as McKeesport, two miles north of the
Monongahela River and about four miles from the battlefield. A
magnificent spring of water marks the site of this encampment, which was
called Monongahela Camp.[77]
On the morning of July 9 the army turned into the valley of Crooked Run
down what is now known as Riverton Avenue, fording the Monongahela to
the north of the mouth of the run in order to avoid the narrow pass on
the east side of the river.[78] The route follows down the western bank
of the Monongahela through what is now Duquesne, fording the river a
second time a short distance west of Turtle Creek. Here, on the eastern
bank of the Monongahela, the battle took place.
From a point about a mile southeast from Circleville to Braddock's Field
there are no trustworthy scars of the road; but the topography of the
country is such that the line between these two points can be readily
determined. Some of the older citizens pointed out to the writer the
place at which Braddock forded the Monongahela, for marks of the passage
have been visible until within a few years.[79] Recently, however, the
whole complexion of the ground on the west side of the river has been
changed to so great a degree, not only by the erection of steel works
with their large deposits of slag along the banks, but also by the
improved methods of navigation, that all traces of Braddock's movements
are forever obliterated. On the eastern side of the Monongahela and west
of Turtle Creek, at what is now Braddock, where the battle occurred,
encouraging efforts are now on foot that promise to lead to a
satisfactory settlement of the point at which the fording actually
occurred, as well as of the location of the route through the
battlefield and of the ground on which the British and the French troops
took position.[80]
[Illustration: BRADDOCK'S GRAVE
FROM PAINTING BY PAUL WEBER, 1854]
In the hope of finding some signs of the path through the battlefield,
the writer made a somewhat careful examination and study of the place;
but the contour of the ground over which the line of march extended was
found to be so much altered that even the slightest traces of its course
were not perceptible. From a study of the Mackellar maps,[81] however,
it would appear that from a point a few rods west of Turtle Creek,
eastward and northward of Frazer's Cabin, the road veered away to the
northwest,[82] evidently crossing the Pennsylvania Railroad at or near
Thirteenth Street (where there was formerly a hollow way or ravine, it
is said), and thence more than probably following the course of the
railroad to Robinson Street, and on to a point northward of the old
Robinson burying-ground. From here the line would seem to have kept east
of the Pennsylvania Railroad and station until it reached a point about
six hundred yards beyond the station, between Jones Avenue and Sixth
Street. This street may be identified as the second ravine, through
which Frazer's Run flowed and in which the advance column of Braddock's
army was attacked by Captain Beaujeu[83] and his party.[84]
FOOTNOTES:
[1] During the month of August, 1908, the writer conducted the
following party over the Braddock Road: Charles Francis Abbott of
Somerville, Mass., a sub-master in the Somerville English High School;
Henry Temple of Washington, Pa., professor of history at Washington
and Jefferson College, and his son John, a student at Washington and
Jefferson Academy; Claude S. Larzelere of Mount Pleasant, Michigan,
professor of history in the Michigan State Normal School; Ernest
K. Weller of Washington, Pa., photographer; Edward B. Murdoch,
Esq., and his brother, John H. Murdock, a senior at Washington and
Jefferson College. During the months of June and July, 1909, he
conducted a second party over the road: Andrew Jackson Waychoff,
professor of history at Waynesburg College; Rev. George P. Donehoo
of Connellsville, Pa.; Charles P. McCormick of Bentleyville, Pa.,
principal of the Bentleyville Public School; Edward Westlake of
Washington, Pa., principal of the Fifth Ward School at Washington,
Pa.; and Ernest K. Weller of Washington, Pa., photographer.
For constant interest and the stimulus of frequent discussions,
for many helpful suggestions in regard to the preparation of this
paper, and for valuable criticism of the manuscript, the writer is
under the deepest obligation to Professor Albert Bushnell Hart of
Harvard University; for helpful criticism of the manuscript he is
indebted also to Professor Edward Channing and to Professor William
Bennett Munro of Harvard University; for conscientious and efficient
service in the preparation of the manuscript for the press he owes
a peculiar debt of gratitude to Miss Addie F. Rowe of Cambridge;
and for practical help at every step of the way he again offers his
hearty thanks to the scores of persons who have given him valued and
appreciated assistance, some of them at great expense of time and
labor.