THE CITY OF ALGIERS.
On the morning of Tuesday, February seventeenth, the Moltke was speeding
over a calm sea toward the coast of Africa. The tourists, after the
strenuous sight-seeing of the past two days, luxuriously rested. Some
lazily lounged in steamer chairs with pillows under their heads and gay
blankets over them; others exchanged experiences with friends while
sauntering slowly around the deck. Some in groups surrounded the card
tables, playing or watching the games; while others read books from the
shelves of the library, or gathered the latest home news from the
columns of the London Times, or the Paris edition of the New York
Herald, copies of which had been taken on board at Gibraltar.
During the afternoon, however, a north-east wind suddenly arose which
stirred the blue waters of the Mediterranean until the short choppy
waves gave to the vessel a new and peculiar roll, differing from any
previously experienced by those on board. As a result, many of the
passengers, not being able to adjust themselves to this unfamiliar
change of motion, became suddenly pale, and prudently retired to the
privacy of their staterooms. But by the time the evening dinner was
served the wind had somewhat subsided, and the majority of the
passengers gathered in the saloon for an entertainment in the form of a
roll-call of states. This was presided over in a jolly manner by a
prominent lawyer from Philadelphia. As he called the name of a state,
some native of that state responded in a short informal address in which
he praised his section of the country so highly that he made it appear
to be a perfect El Dorado. There was but time to hear from seventeen
states although representatives from almost every state in the Union and
from Canada were present.
When the sun rose on Wednesday morning our steamer was anchored within
the breakwater a short distance from the docks in the harbor of Algiers.
A pleasant sight greeted our eyes when we came on deck. We saw a little
white boat gliding over the waves flying the American flag, then two
white steam launches speeding through the harbor with the same emblem
floating in the breeze, while, over to the left, we descried at anchor
three white gun boats, and hanging at their sterns our country's flag.
[Illustration: LIKE GHOSTS WALKING THROUGH THE STREETS.]
"Three cheers for the Stars and Stripes," cried an enthusiast, and the
hurrahs were given earnestly and vigorously.
On the bulletin board we found the following notice posted:
PROGRAM FOR ALGIERS.
The Managers will furnish landing tickets to the tourists but all
expenses while on shore in Algiers will be borne by each
individual.
Carriages will be waiting on the docks for those who desire to
ride, at their own expense, and a guide will be assigned to go with
every four carriages.
Meals may be obtained by returning to the ship, and passengers are
expected to return to the vessel at night.
"How shall we spend the day without a definite plan laid out for us?"
said one of a group at the bulletin board.
"Let us take carriages with a guide as interpreter," suggested another,
"and drive around the city during the morning, then buy our luncheon at
a French restaurant, and spend the afternoon tramping around and
visiting the shops."
"That will suit me, especially the shopping part; I want to buy some
souvenirs," replied a third.
"And return hungry to the vessel in time for a good dinner in the
evening," added a fourth.
Descending the ship's ladder, we placed ourselves in the care of the
bronzed Arab boatmen, whose little boats had for some time been circling
around the steamer, and were rowed to the custom house pier. Not having
luggage to be examined, we fearlessly passed the red-trousered custom
officials in the building and crossed the busy docks to the carriages in
waiting.
[Illustration: THE LITTLE MOSQUE IN GOUVERNMENT SQUARE.]
At the docks many vessels were lying, and the wharves were filled with
outgoing and incoming freight. Beyond the docks along the front of the
city is a broad avenue, the Boulevard de la Republic, elevated forty or
fifty feet above the wharves. This boulevard is supported on the sea
side by solid white stone arcaded walls, and is reached by inclined
roadways or by handsome stone stairways. On the land side it is lined
with substantial white stone buildings of uniform height with an arcade
in front.
The population of the city of Algiers, about 100,000, is composed
principally of Moors, Arabs, Negroes, and other African nationalities,
but with a large number of French, and many Hebrews, some Spanish,
English, and other Continental representatives, and a few Americans. On
its streets we saw faces of different colors ranging from pure white,
through all the tints of brown, to the deepest black.
In the Place de Gouvernment, one of the centers of business and
religious life of the city, we met turbaned Arabs, barefoot negroes,
red-trousered soldiers, French civilians, American tourists, Hebrew
traders, Kabyle mountaineers. In this motley crowd the native men and
women especially attracted our attention. The Algerine men wore long
white gowns fastened at the waist with a girdle; white cloaks, called
bournous, around their shoulders; and white turbans of many folds on
their heads. The richer classes were arrayed in spotless garments of
fine material, stockings, and ornamented sandals; the laborers wore
coarse gowns, and sandals made of rope; while the unclean bodies of
importunate beggars and unfortunate cripples were but partially covered
with filthy sacking and rags which hung upon them.
The Mohammedan women, wearing long bloomers made exceedingly full, and
white mantles resembling sheets draped over their heads and falling
loosely around their bodies, looked like ghosts as they walked through
the streets. The white bandages or veils wrapped around their heads
concealed all the features except the eyes, which appeared black and
piercing. The Arab men may be able to distinguish the age of these
veiled females, but it was difficult for us to tell which were old
women, and which young, except by the elasticity of their movements.
[Illustration: THE ALGERINE MEN WEAR LONG WHITE GOWNS.]
Near the Place de Gouvernment is the imposing palace of the Governor
where all official business is transacted. Adjoining the palace stands
the handsome Roman Catholic Cathedral. A long flight of white marble
steps leads up to the doors of the Cathedral and a spreading palm tree
stands like a guard near the foot of the stairway. As we stood before
the tomb of St. Geronimo in the interior of the Cathedral, we listened
to the following tale told by our Catholic guide.
"A young man by the name of Geronimo, who lived in Italy about three
hundred and fifty years ago, was captured by the Moors, and because he
would not renounce the Christian religion, was condemned by his captors
to death by torture. They tied his feet and hands with cords and threw
him alive into a mould of soft concrete which slowly hardened around
him, and the stone thus formed was built into the wall of a fortress
then in course of construction. Fifty years ago, when the fortress was
being demolished, the block of stone was discovered with the skeleton
enclosed therein. The bones were carefully removed and interred in this
Chapel in the tomb you see before you. Into the vacant space within the
block of concrete, after removal of the bones, liquid plaster of Paris
was poured, as into a mould, and a perfect model of Geronimo's body was
obtained and placed in the Museum. It was in recognition of this act of
heroism in refusing to renounce the Christian faith that the martyr was
canonized and the name of Geronimo was added to the calendar of the
saints of our Church."
In confirmation of the guide's story, the plaster of Paris model of the
dead martyr's body may be seen among the curiosities and antiquities in
the National Museum, a short distance from the Cathedral. This model
shows the features, the clothing, and the cords which tied his feet and
hands.
The main business part of the city is not only modern but model, having
clean, well paved streets lined with substantial white stone four-story
buildings with arcades or covered pavements in front of them. As very
little smoke or soot rises from the city the white buildings have not
become soiled and darkened but retain their freshness and purity of
color.
Many of the stores we visited were kept by Arabs who understood French
but could speak only a few words of English. The prices named by these
merchants were generally two or three times more than they expected
customers to pay, and it was very amusing to watch the process of a
sale. A price was named by the dealer; a bid was made by the customer;
then figuring, explaining, and dickering went on in a mixture of
languages and signs until finally, if the buyer's patience did not wear
out, the deal closed with a compromise. When the purchaser departed
happy with a bargain, the dealer also appeared well satisfied, and if
the same buyer returned to the store after once making a purchase, the
Arab merchant would recognize and welcome him with most gracious smiles
as if he were one of his warmest friends.
In these shops there was offered for sale such a varied and attractive
assortment of oriental wares, that by evening the tourists were laden
with packages. Handsome silk rugs, embroidered silk waists, curiously
carved Algerine weapons, brightly colored leather goods, articles of
hammered brass or copper, silver filagree work, ornaments of silver and
gold, trinkets of ivory, coral and pearl, fans, photographs, and picture
postal cards purchased during the day, were stored away in staterooms as
souvenirs of Algiers.
At the market stands were fruits and vegetables in abundance. The dates
offered were especially pleasing in appearance and quality. The bread
dealers, we noticed, sold bread by weight, and added or cut off chunks
and slices in order to give the exact weight wanted by customers.
The beggars did not trouble us very much by their importunities,
although they were to be seen everywhere in filth and rags. Street
peddlers, however, were persistent in offering wares and trinkets for
sale, and bright Arab boys, who had learned a few sentences of English
ran after us offering their services as guides.
The coffee shops which we saw while passing through the streets were as
numerous in Algiers as beer saloons in an American city. As the
Mohammedan religion forbids the use of alcoholic liquors, the Arab
followers of Mahomet appeared to be satisfying their craving for
stimulants by drinking strong black coffee and by drinking it often. In
the cafes, which are open in front, allowing all that goes on inside to
be visible from the street, and on the benches outside the shops, we saw
the customers sitting crosslegged slowly imbibing this favorite beverage
from tiny cups. It was plainly apparent that in this warm climate where
there is no haste, numberless hours are dreamed away on the benches of
these cafes.
[Illustration: ON FRIDAYS THE WOMEN VISIT THE CEMETERY.]
When we left the modern part of the city and ascended the avenues which
lead up the hill toward the older portion we found the streets
diminishing in width until they were only passageways from six to ten
feet wide, bordered by high buildings with blank walls showing no
windows below, but with projecting windows above which almost meet
overhead. In some of these steep, narrow, crooked streets there are
little shops about the size of a large closet in which the merchant,
sitting crosslegged on bench or cushion, can reach his goods and wait on
his customer without rising or interfering with the enjoyment of his
pipe. As the narrow thoroughfares are not wide enough for carriages, we
had to walk through them with a guide. We were not favorably impressed
with the odors nor with the sight of the filth in the streets and were
glad when the guide turned from the gloom and foulness of the ancient
Moorish streets and led us again toward the bright and attractive
avenues of the modern city.
The electric street cars are divided into two compartments; the first
class having thin cushions on the seats, and the second class having
wooden seats without cushions. The natives save the extra penny of fare
by crowding into the second class, thus giving to the first class
passengers the advantage of always having enough room. In the second
class, however, the tourists had a more favorable opportunity to study
the people. Opposite us in one of the second class compartments which we
entered sat two veiled women in their voluminous white bloomers and
wrappings. We could see that one was old by the fact that she leaned
upon a staff, and we decided that the other was young because she showed
some curiosity. Sitting near us was a little black haired Arab girl
with a chunk of dry bread in her hand, at which she was gnawing
greedily. In a corner seat a meek looking nun in black gown and wide
spreading stiff bonnet was counting the beads of her rosary as quietly
as if alone in her devotions.
[Illustration: ABLUTION AT THE FOUNTAIN BEFORE PRAYER IN THE MOSQUE.]
"Look," said one, as we were leaving the car, "there is the 'Thomson and
Houston' stamp on the motor."
"Yes," responded another, "American products appear to be well
represented in this French colony."
On the main business thoroughfare we had noticed warerooms where
'Singer' sewing machines are sold; at an agency of the 'Eastman Company'
we had restocked our kodaks with films; and we could not avoid seeing on
a large sign, in letters that could be read a block away, the words
'American Dentist.' Consequently when we passed the American Consulate
it was with a feeling of pride that we saluted the National Emblem which
was floating gracefully in the breeze.
In the Rue de Marine we saw an old structure of large dimensions with a
long row of plain white marble columns in front, which, from its
appearance, might be mistaken for an old warehouse. We were told by a
Moslem guard, who fortunately understood our inquiry and was able to
answer our questions in English, that the building is the Mosque El
Tebir, the Great Mosque, and that we might enter subject to certain
regulations.
"You must remove your shoes," said he, "or wear slippers over your
shoes. You must also pay a small entrance fee."
In the vestibule, the door-keepers of the Mosque selected slippers from
an assortment of different sizes which they kept for visitors' use and
tied these over our shoes with tapes. We were then permitted to enter
and wander around the interior over the handsome Persian rugs which
cover the stone floor.
"The Moslems regard their Mosques as very sacred places consecrated to
the worship of Allah, and they will not permit any profanation of their
sanctuary," cautioned one of our party, a Presbyterian minister, seeing
that we were inclined to make fun of the slippers. "The Moslems remove
their shoes and enter the place of worship with reverence, and they
expect us to behave in a respectful manner."
[Illustration: THE CATHEDRAL ADJOINS THE PALACE OF THE GOVERNOR.]
"The removal of the shoes at the entrance to a place of worship,"
continued the minister in explanation, "is an immemorial Eastern custom
based on the words: 'And he said, Draw not nigh hither; put off thy
shoes from off thy feet, for the place whereon thou standest is holy
ground,' and also on the words: 'And the captain of the Lord's hosts
said unto Joshua, Loose thy shoe from off thy foot; for the place
whereon thou standest is holy. And Joshua did so.' We should remember
that the Mohammedan faith is based on the Old Testament, though
supplemented by the instructions of Mahomet."
In this ancient Mosque, where the worship of Allah and the study of the
Koran has continued for nine hundred years, we found a few barefoot
worshipers, some kneeling muttering their prayers, while others squatted
on the floor reading the Koran aloud. At one end of the interior we saw
the niche which indicates the direction in which lies the Holy City of
Mecca, and toward this, as is the custom in all Mohammedan mosques, the
worshipers turn their faces while at prayer. There were no benches or
chairs in the mosque, as the devotees assumed a crosslegged position on
the thick rugs during the time of their reading, and stood or knelt
while offering prayer.
The Jardin d'Essai, or Botanical Garden, situated in the suburbs near
the sea about two miles from the center of the city, is reached by an
electric street car of American make which for a three-cent fare
carried us to the gates. In the garden the large and varied collection
of tropical trees, plants, and vines, so different from those growing in
our own temperate climate, greatly delighted us. An "Avenue of Palms"
half a mile long was lined with palm trees of many varieties, some
wide-spreading and curiously branching has broad leaves, and others,
high-growing, has tufted tops swaying in the air fifty or sixty feet
above our heads. A wider avenue of similar length was bordered with
magnolia trees of immense growth which we then saw only in bud, but it
was not difficult to see in imagination the magnificent picture that
would be presented to the eye, when later on, these millions of buds
overhead would be in full bloom. The "Bamboo Pathway" led through a
dense growth of bamboos whose slender poles, bending under a slight
breeze, kept up a continual creaking sound. Huge trees, whose
wide-spreading branches were supported by scores of accessory trunks, so
that each tree formed a grove of its own, we recognized as banyan trees.
In one part of the garden, winding paths led through a tangled tropical
growth so dense and wild that one felt as if in the midst of an African
jungle where a tiger might spring forth or a boa constrictor drop down
on one's head.
On the heights to the east, in the favorite modern residential district,
called Mustapha Superieur, many large white stone hotels and apartment
houses were situated amid gardens of glossy-leaved orange and lemon
trees. Palms, plane, and pepper trees lined the clean, wide avenues;
green terraces beautified the hillside gardens; and villas were almost
hidden from sight by the climbing roses and luxuriant vines with
clusters of purple racemes.
"Many of these villas," said the guide, "are owned by wealthy English
and French families who spend the winters here. The mild climate and
uniform temperature of our city makes this place a favorite winter
resort not only for invalids, but for those who desire to get away from
the damp fogs and harsh winds of more northern climates."
[Illustration: THE ENTRANCE TO A NARROW STREET.]
"Our city is noted for two views which we think are unsurpassed," he
continued, as the driver reined in his team on a summit. "One is this
which we now look down upon of city, harbor, sea, and villages near and
distant along the shore. The other, you already have seen from the deck
of the vessel, yet at sunset you will find that panorama of the city,
villages, heights and mountains even more beautiful."
While we were exploring the city, the officers on the steamer were
engaged in directing the taking on of fresh supplies of coal, water, and
provisions, which had been purchased at Algiers. During the two days the
Moltke lay in the harbor fifteen hundred tons of coal were carried in
baskets on the shoulders of Arabs from barges into the hold of the
vessel, a slow method of delivering compared with the rush of the steam
scoops in New York harbor where three thousand tons were dumped into the
bunkers in a few hours' time. Fresh water also was brought from shore in
tank barges and pumped from these into the tanks on the steamer. The
quantity of fresh water required at this port cost the steamship
company, so the engineer informed us, a sum equal to four hundred
dollars. Also great quantities of fresh fruits and vegetables were
received on board, one of the most welcome things thus added to our
bountiful bill of fare being the tender green artichoke which in Algiers
grows to perfection.
On Thursday afternoon a reception was held on the Moltke and our band
gave a most enjoyable musical program for the occasion. Hundreds of well
dressed, courteous French ladies, gentlemen, and children, and some
French officials in uniforms, came on board to visit the vessel which
was thrown wide open for their examination. Some of the officers of the
naval vessels also came to the reception and extended a cordial
invitation to the tourists to visit the gunboats. This invitation was
accepted by some who were willing to spare the time for that purpose.
[Illustration: A STREET IN OLD ALGIERS.]
"Less than one hundred years ago Algiers was a country of pirates," said
one of the officers to a group of tourists, "and Algerine corsairs
flying the black flag infested the Mediterranean coast. Like birds of
prey they pounced upon the merchant vessels of other nations,
confiscating the cargoes, seizing seamen and passengers, and burning the
ships. They cast thousands of captives into dungeons and demanded heavy
ransoms for their release. They sent many thousands to the markets to be
sold,--the men to be degraded to slavery, the women, praying for death,
to be dragged away to harems of their purchasers. Among the captives
held for ransom were many Americans. But you are familiar with all this
ancient history."
"No, we are not," replied one of the ladies; "I may have read it but if
so, it has slipped from my mind. Why, we have gone about the city
feeling as safe and secure from harm and insult as we did in our home
cities."
"And you were as safe in Algiers during the day time as you would be in
Paris, London, or New York. I should advise you, though, to keep off the
streets of this and all Oriental cities after nightfall. We may be proud
to remember that the United States was one of the first countries to
stop paying ransoms and to administer a salutary reproof. In June of the
year 1815 our Commodore Decatur sailed into this harbor and sent a
message to the Dey of Algiers demanding the release of all Americans
then held in captivity, threatening to bombard the city if the prisoners
were not set free. The Dey after some demur yielded through fear of
bombardment and liberated all the Americans; but sent a message to the
Commodore requesting that a tribute in the shape of powder be given him
in exchange for the captives. 'If the Dey wants powder, he must take the
balls with it,' Decatur bravely replied. After that the merchant vessels
flying the American flag were not molested. The great destruction of
ships and the capture of Europeans continued until France, highly
exasperated, determined that it must be stopped, and the Moors punished.
An expedition was sent to Algiers and the country was conquered in the
year 1830, since then Algiers has been a French colonial possession."
Just as the sun was dropping below the horizon filling the air with a
golden light, the anchor was slowly raised. A number of the French
people who had been visitors to the Molkte were in a steam launch near
by waiting to see our departure.
[Illustration: LED THROUGH A TROPICAL, TANGLED GROWTH.]
"Adieu," "Adieu," "Bon voyage," were the parting salutations, as the
French ladies waved handkerchiefs and the French men raised their hats.
As the warships were passed, "Three cheers for the Red, White, and Blue"
were given with a will amid waving hats, handkerchiefs, and small flags,
and our greeting was answered by the lowering and raising of the Stars
and Stripes on board the warships. Then our great ship steamed slowly
out of the harbor, passing the forts which at the extremities of the
moles guarded the entrance, and the lighthouse whose strong, steady
light was just beginning to shine.
As we entered the open sea we looked back with regret at the scene of
beauty behind us. Vessels flying flags of many nationalities lay at
anchor in the harbor or at the piers. Above the handsome white stone
docks on the sloping hillside rose the clean-looking white city. On the
hill to the right far away in bold relief stood the Church of our Lady
of Africa. To the left, as far as the eye could reach, along the shore
of the bay beyond the city, were clusters of Moorish houses, white
villages, and green plains, and on the heights above, white villas and
hotels in the midst of green foliage. In the distance rose a range of
high hills, and far beyond the gray peaks of the Atlas Mountains bounded
the horizon.
No picturing of that scene can show the beauty of the view there
presented to our eyes. But he who has visited Algiers will never forget
the soft harmonizing colors of blue sky, white and yellow buildings,
green foliage, and gray background.