CHAPTER IV.

THE STRAND.

Ancient State of the Strand -- Butcher Row -- Death of Lee, the

dramatic Poet -- Johnson at an Eating-House -- Essex Street --

House and History of the favourite Earl of Essex -- Spenser's

Visit there -- Essex, General of the Parliament -- Essex Head

Club -- Devereux Court -- Grecian Coffee-House -- Twining, the

accomplished Scholar -- St. Clement Danes -- Clement's Inn --

Falstaff and Shallow -- Norfolk, Arundel, Surrey, and Howard

Streets -- Norfolk House -- Essex's Ring and the Countess of

Nottingham -- William Penn -- Birch -- Dr. Brocklesby --

Congreve, and his Will -- Voltaire's Visit to him -- Mrs.

Bracegirdle -- Tragical End of Mountford the Player -- Ancient

Cross -- Maypole -- New Church of St. Mary-le-Strand -- Old

Somerset House -- Henrietta Maria and her French Household --

Waller's Mishap at Somerset Stairs -- New Somerset House --

Royal Society, Antiquarian Society, and Royal Academy -- Death

of Dr. King -- Exeter Street -- Johnson's first Lodging in

London -- Art of living in London -- Catherine Street --

Unfortunate Women -- Wimbledon House -- Lyceum and Beef-steak

Club -- Exeter Change -- Bed and Baltimore -- The Savoy --

Anecdotes of the Duchess of Albemarle -- Beaufort Buildings --

Lillie, the Perfumer -- Aaron Hill -- Fielding -- Southampton

Street -- Cecil and Salisbury Streets -- Durham House --

Raleigh -- Pennant on the Word Place or Palace -- New Exchange

-- Don Pantaleon Sa -- The White Milliner -- Adelphi -- Garrick

and his Wife -- Beauclerc -- Society of Arts, and Mr. Barry --

Bedford Street -- George, Villiers, and Buckingham Streets --

York House and Buildings -- Squabble between the Spanish and

French Ambassadors -- Hungerford Market -- Craven Street --

Franklin -- Northumberland House -- Duplicity of Henry, Earl of

Northampton -- Violence of Lord Herbert of Cherbury -- Percy,

Bishop of Dromore -- Pleasant mistake of Goldsmith.

In going through Fleet Street and the Strand, we seldom think that the

one is named after a rivulet, now running under ground, and the other

from its being on the banks of the river Thames. As little do most of

us fancy that there was once a line of noblemen's houses on the one

side, and that, at the same time, all beyond the other side, to

Hampstead or Highgate, was open country, with the little hamlet of St.

Giles's in a copse. So late as the reign of Henry VIII. we have a

print containing the vill a of Charing. Citizens used to take an

evening stroll to the well now in St. Clement's Inn.

In the reign of Edward III. the Strand was an open country road, with

a mansion here and there, on the banks of the river Thames, most

probably a castle or stronghold. In this state it no doubt remained

during the greater part of the York and Lancaster period. From Henry

VII.'s time the castles most likely began to be exchanged for mansions

of a more peaceful character. These gradually increased; and in the

reign of Edward VI. the Strand consisted, on the south side, of a line

of mansions with garden walls; and on the north, of a single row of

houses, behind which all was field. The reader is to imagine wall all

the way from Temple Bar to Whitehall, on his left hand, like that of

Kew Palace, or a succession of Burlington Gardens; while the line of

humbler habitations stood on the other side, like a row of servants in

waiting.

As wealth increased, not only the importance of rank diminished, and

the nobles were more content to recollect James's advice of living in

the country (where, he said, they looked like ships in a river,

instead of ships at sea), but the value of ground about London,

especially on the river side, was so much augmented, that the

proprietors of these princely mansions were not unwilling to turn the

premises into money. The civil wars had given another jar to the

stability of their abodes in the metropolis; and in Charles the

Second's time the great houses finally gave way, and were exchanged

for streets and wharfs. An agreeable poet of the last century lets us

know that he used to think of this great change in going up the

Strand.

"Come, Fortescue, sincere, experienc'd friend,

Thy briefs, thy deeds, and e'en thy fees suspend;

Come, let us leave the Temple's silent walls;

Me, business to my distant lodging calls;

Through the long Strand together let us stray;

With thee conversing, I forget the way.

Behold that narrow street which steep descends,

Whose building to the slimy shore extends;

Here Arundel's fam'd structure rear'd its fame:

The street alone retains the empty name.

Where Titian's glowing paint the canvass warmed,

And Raphael's fair design with judgment charmed,

Now hangs the bellman's song; and pasted here

The coloured prints of Overton appear.

Where statues breathed, the works of Phidias' hands,

A wooden pump, or lonely watch-house stands.

There Essex's stately pile adorned the shore,

There Cecil's, Bedford's, Villiers',--now no more."[127]

As the aspect in this quarter is so different from what it was, and

the quarter is one of the most important in the metropolis, we may add

what Pennant has written on the subject:--

"In the year 1353, that fine street the Strand was an open

highway, with here and there a great man's house, with gardens

to the water's side. In that year it was so ruinous, that

Edward III., by an ordinance, directed a tax to be raised upon

wool, leather, wine, and all goods carried to the staple at

Westminster, from Temple Bar to Westminster Abbey, for the

repair of the road; and that all owners of houses adjacent to

the highway should repair as much as lay before their doors.

Mention is also made of a bridge to be erected near the royal

palace at Westminster, for the conveniency of the said staple;

but the last probably meant no more than stairs for the landing

of the goods, which I find sometimes went by the name of a

bridge.

"There was no continued street here till about the year 1533;

before that it entirely cut off Westminster from London, and

nothing intervened except the scattered houses, and a village,

which afterwards gave name to the whole. St. Martin's stood

literally in the fields. But about the year 1560 a street was

formed, loosely built, for all the houses on the south side had

great gardens to the river, were called by their owners' names,

and in after times gave name to the several streets that

succeeded them, pointing down to the Thames; each of them had

stairs for the conveniency of taking boat, of which many to

this day bear the names of the houses. As the court was for

centuries either at the palace at Westminster, or Whitehall, a

boat was the customary conveyance of the great to the presence

of their sovereign. The north side was a mere line of houses

from Charing-cross to Temple Bar; all beyond was country. The

gardens which occupied part of the site of Covent Garden were

bounded by fields, and St. Giles's was a distant country

village. These are circumstances proper to point out, to show

the vast increase of our capital in little more than two

centuries."[128]

The aspect of the Strand, on emerging through Temple Bar, is very

different from what it was forty years ago. "A stranger who had

visited London in 1790, would on his return in 1804," says Mr.

Malcolm, "be astonished to find a spacious area (with the church

nearly in the centre) on the site of Butcher Row, and some other

passages undeserving of the name of streets, which were composed of

those wretched fabrics, overhanging their foundations, the receptacles

of dirt in every corner of their projecting stories, the bane of

ancient London, where the plague, with all its attendant horrors,

frowned destruction on the miserable inhabitants, reserving its forces

for the attacks of each returning summer."[129]

The site of Butcher Row, thus advantageously thrown open, is called

Pickett Street, after the alderman who projected the improvements.

Unfortunately they turned out to be on too large a scale; that is to

say, the houses were found to be too large and expensive for the right

side of the Strand in this quarter; the tide of traffic between the

city and Westminster flowing the other side of the way. The

consequence is, that the houses are under-let, and that something of

the old squalid look remains in the turning towards Clement's Inn, in

spite of the pillared entrance.

Butcher Row, however squalid, contained houses worth eating and

drinking in. Johnson frequented an eating-house there; and, according

to Oldys, it was "in returning from the Bear and Harrow in Butcher

Row, through Clare Market, to his lodgings in Duke Street, that Lee,

the dramatic poet, overladen with wine, fell down (on the ground, as

some say--according to others, on a bulk), and was killed, or stifled

in the snow. He was buried in the parish church of St. Clement Danes,

aged about thirty-five years."[130] "He was a very handsome as well as

ingenious man," says Oldys, "but given to debauchery, which

necessitated a milk diet. When some of his university comrades visited

him, he fell to drinking out of all measure, which, flying up into his

head, caused his face to break out into those carbuncles which were

afterwards observed there; and also touched his brain, occasioning

that madness so much lamented in so rare a genius. Tom Brown says, he

wrote, while he was in Bedlam, a play of twenty-five acts; and Mr.

Bowman tells me that, going once to visit him there, Lee showed him a

scene, 'in which,' says he, 'I have done a miracle for you.' 'What's

that?' said Bowman. 'I have made you a good priest.'"

Oldys mentions another of his mad sayings, but does not tell us with

whom it passed.

"I've seen an unscrewed spider spin a thought,

And walk away upon the wings of angels!"

"What say you to that, doctor?" "Ah, marry, Mr. Lee, that's

superfine indeed. The thought of a winged spider may catch

sublime readers of poetry sooner than his web, but it will need

a commentary in prose to render it intelligible to the

vulgar."[131]

Lee's madness does not appear to have been melancholy, otherwise these

anecdotes would not bear repeating. There are various stories of the

origin of it; but, most probably, he had an over-sanguine

constitution, which he exasperated by intemperance. Though he died so

young, the author of _A Satyr on the Poets_ gives us to understand

that he was corpulent.

"Pembroke loved tragedy, and did provide

For the butchers' dogs, and for the whole Bank-side:

The bear was fed; but dedicating Lee

Was thought to have a greater paunch than he."[132]

This Pembroke, who loved a bear-garden, was the seventh earl of that

title. His daughter married the son of Jefferies. Lee, on a visit to

the earl at Wilton, is said to have drunk so hard, that "the butler

feared he would empty the cellar." The madness of Lee is almost

visible in his swelling and overladen dramas; in which, however, there

is a good deal of true poetic fire, and a vein of tenderness that

makes us heartily pity the author.

The social Boswell, in speaking of Johnson's eating-house in Butcher

Row, does not approve of establishments of that sort. We shall see, by

and by, that he was wrong.

"Happening to dine," says he, "at Clifton's eating-house in

Butcher Row, I was surprised to see Johnson come in and take

his seat at another table. The mode of dining, or rather being

fed, at such houses in London, is well known to many to be

peculiarly unsocial, as there is no ordinary or united company,

but each person has his own mess, and is under no obligation to

hold any intercourse with any one. A liberal and full-minded

man, however, who loves to talk, will break through this

churlish and unsocial restraint. Johnson and an Irish gentleman

got into a dispute concerning the cause of some part of mankind

being black. 'Why, sir (said Johnson), it has been accounted

for in three ways: either by supposing that they are the

posterity of Ham, who was cursed; or that God at first created

two kinds of men, one black and another white; or that, by the

heat of the sun, the skin is scorched, and so acquires a sooty

hue. This matter has been much canvassed among naturalists, but

has never been brought to any certain issue.' What the Irishman

said is totally obliterated from my mind; but I remember that

he became very warm and intemperate in his expressions; upon

which Johnson rose, and quietly walked away. When he had

retired, his antagonist took his revenge, as he thought, by

saying, 'He has a most ungainly figure, and an affectation of

pomposity unworthy of a man of genius.'"[133]

The ungainly figure might have been pardoned by the Irishman; who, we

suppose, was equally fiery and elegant. As to Johnson's pompous

manner, the most excusable part of it originated, doubtless, in his

having decided opinions. The rest may have been an instinct of

self-defence, arising from the "ungainly figure," not without a sense

of the dignity of his calling. He certainly lost nothing by it, upon

the whole. At all events, one is willing to think the best of what was

accompanied by so much excellence. Affectation it was not; for nobody

despised pretension of any kind more than he did. Johnson was a sort

of born bishop in his way, with high judgments and cathedral notions

lording it in his mind; and _ex cathedrâ_ he accordingly spoke.

In Butcher Row, one day, Johnson met, in advanced life, a

fellow-collegian, of the name of Edwards, whom he had not seen since

they were at the university. Edwards annoyed him by talking of their

age. "Don't let us discourage one another," said Johnson. It was this

Edwards, a dull but good man, who made that _naïve_ remark, which was

pronounced by Burke and others to be an excellent trait of

character:--"You are a philosopher, Dr. Johnson," said he: "I have

tried in my time to be a philosopher; but, I don't know how,

cheerfulness was always breaking in."[134]

Before we come to St. Clement's, we arrive, on the left-hand side of

the way, at Essex Street; a spot once famous for the residence of the

favourite Earl of Essex. We have mentioned an Outer Temple, which

originally formed a companion to the Inner and Middle Temples, the

whole constituting the tenements of the knights. This Outer Temple

stretched beyond Temple Bar into the ground now occupied by Essex

Street and Devereux Court; and after being possessed (Dugdale

supposes) by the Prior and Canons of the Holy Sepulchre, was

transferred by them, in the time of Edward III., to the Bishops of

Exeter, who occupied it till the reign of Henry VI., and called it

Exeter House. Sir William Paget (afterwards Lord Paget) then had it,

and did "re-edify the same," calling it Paget Place. After this it was

occupied by the Duke of Norfolk, who was executed for his dealings

with Mary, Queen of Scots; then by Dudley, Earl of Leicester, the

favourite, who called it Leicester House, and bequeathed it to his

"son, Sir Robert;" and then by the other favourite, Leicester's

son-in-law, Essex, from whom it retained the name of Essex House. It

was occasionally tenanted by men of rank till some time after the

Restoration, when it was pulled down, and the site converted into the

present street and court. The only remnant of it supposed to exist is

the present Unitarian Chapel, which, before it became such, was

called Essex House, and latterly contained an auction room.[135]

The repose enjoyed in this precinct since the Restoration has been

like silence after a succession of storms, for the house was of a

turbulent reputation. The first bishop who had it after the Templars,

being a favourite of Edward II., was seized by the mob, hurried to

Cheapside, where they beheaded him, and then carried back a corpse,

and buried in a heap of sand at his door. Lord Paget got into trouble,

together with his friend the Duke of Somerset, who was accused of

intending to assassinate Northumberland and others at this house.

Norfolk possessed it while he formed his designs on Mary, Queen of

Scots, for which he was brought to the scaffold; Leicester was always

having some ill design or other--perhaps poisoned a visitor or so

occasionally (for he is said to have thought nothing of that gentle

expediency); and Essex made the house famous by standing a siege in it

against the troops of his mistress. The siege was not long, nor any of

his actions in the business very wise, though he was a man of an

exalted nature. Essex got into his troubles partly from heat and

ambition, partly from the inferior and more cunning nature of some of

his rivals at court. There is no doubt that all these causes, together

with his confidence in Elizabeth's inability to proceed to

extremities, conspired to lead him into rebellion. His first offence

that we hear of, next to a general petulance of manner, which the

Queen's own mixture of fondness and petulance was calculated enough to

provoke, was a quarrel with some young lords for her favour; the

second, his joining the expedition to Cadiz without leave; and the

third, his marriage with the daughter of Sir Francis Walsingham: for

Elizabeth never thought it proper that her favourites should be

married to any thing but her "fair idea."

His next dispute with her, which was on the subject of an assistant in

the affairs of Ireland, to which he was going as lord deputy,

terminated in the singular catastrophe of his receiving from her a box

on the ear, with the encouraging addition of bidding him "Go, and be

hanged." It is said to have been occasioned by his turning his back

upon her. He clapped his hand to his sword, and swore he would not

have put up with such an insult from her father. His fall is generally

dated from this circumstance, and it is thought he never forgave it.

But surely this is not a correct judgment: for the blow which might

have been intolerable from the hand of a king, implied, in its very

extravagance, something not without flattery and self-abasement from

that of a princess. It was as if Elizabeth had put herself into the

situation of a termagant wife. The quarrel preceded the violence.

Essex went to Ireland against the rebels, but apparently with great

unwillingness, calling it, in a letter to the Queen, the "cursedest of

all islands," and insinuating that the best thing that could happen

both to please her and himself was the loss of his life in battle. The

conclusion of this letter is a remarkable instance of the mixture of

romance with real life in those days. It is in verse, terminating with

the following pastoral sentiment. Essex wishes he could live like a

hermit, "in some unhaunted desert most obscure"--

"From all society, from love and hate

Of worldly folk; then should he sleep secure,

Then wake again, and yield God every praise,

Content with hips and hawes, and bramble-berry;

In contemplation parting out his days,

And change of holy thoughts to make him merry.

Who when he dies, his tomb may be a bush,

Where harmless robin dwells with gentle thrush.

Your Majesty's exiled servant,

"ROBERT ESSEX."

Think of this being a letter from a lord lieutenant of Ireland to his

sovereign! Warton says, from the evidence of some sonnets preserved in

the British Museum, that although Essex was "an ingenious and elegant

writer of prose," he was no poet. There is an ungainliness in the

lines we have just quoted, and he was probably too much given to

action to be a poet; but there is something in him that relished of

the truth and directness of poetry, when he had to touch upon any

actual emotion. Poetry is nothing but the voluntary power to get at

the inner spirit of what is felt, with imagination to embody it. It

was supposed that Essex's enemies first got him into the office of

lord lieutenant, and then took advantage of his impatience under it

to ruin him. He was accused of tampering with the rebels, and

meditating his return into England with the troops under his charge;

with a view to which object he is said to have described his army as a

force with which he "would make the earth to tremble as he went." He

came over, with the passion of an injured man, and presented himself

before the Queen, who gave him a tolerable reception, but afterwards

confined him to the house of the lord keeper. It was then, according

to his confession before his death, that he first contemplated violent

measures against the throne, though always short of treason. Before

his liberation, he was soured by his ineffectual attempts to renew his

facility of admission to the presence chamber; and he let fall an

expression which his enemies greedily seized at, to wit, that the

"Queen grew old and cankered, and that her mind was become as crooked

as her carcase." This was exactly in his style, which was off-hand and

energetic, with a gusto of truth in it. Meantime he began to have his

friends about him more than ever, and to affect a necessity for it;

and a summons being sent him to attend the council, he was driven by

anger and fear to decline it, and to fortify himself in his house. His

chief and most generous companion on this occasion was Henry, Earl of

Southampton, the friend of Shakspeare. There was some little

resistance; and the Lord Keeper, with the Lord Chief Justice and the

Earl of Worcester, coming to summon him to his allegiance, he locked

them up in a room, on pretence of taking care of their persons, and

then sallied through Fleet Street into the city, where he expected a

rising in his favour; for he was the most popular noble, perhaps, that

England had ever seen, and the city had been disgusted by repeated

levies on its purse, under pretence of invasions from Spain: though,

according to Essex, Spain had never been so much in favour. The

levies, in truth, were made against himself. He was disappointed:

heard himself proclaimed a traitor by sound of trumpet in Gracechurch

Street, and after a little more scuffling on the part of his

adherents, returned by water from Queenhithe, and surrendered himself;

being partly moved, he said, by the "cries of ladies." It is clear

that he did not know what to be at. He expected, most likely, every

moment, that the Queen's tenderness would interfere, fearful of seeing

her once beloved favourite in danger. But the Cecils and others aided

her good sense in keeping her quiet. Essex had certainly acted in a

way incompatible with the duty of a subject, and such as no sovereign

could tolerate. He was tried in Westminster Hall, and convicted of an

intention to seize the court and the Tower, to surprise the Queen in

her apartments, and then to summon a parliament for a "redress of

grievances;" which, he said, should give his enemies "a fair trial."

Southampton was acquitted, no doubt from a sense that he intended

nothing but a romantic adherence to his friend.

How a man of Essex's understanding could give into these preposterous

attempts, it would be difficult to conceive, if every day's experience

did not show how powerful a succession of little circumstances is to

bring people into situations which themselves might have least looked

for. Essex evidently expected pardon to the last. When Lord Grey's

name was read over among the peers who were to try him, he smiled and

jogged the elbow of Southampton, for offending whom Grey had been

punished. He was at his ease throughout the trial. He said to the

Attorney-General (Coke), who had told him in the course of his speech

that he should be "Robert the Last" of an earldom, instead of "Robert

the First" of a kingdom--"Well, Mr. Attorney, I thank God you are not

my judge this day, you are so uncharitable."

"_Coke._ Well, my lord, we shall prove you anon, what you are;

which your pride of heart, and aspiring mind, hath brought you

unto.

_Essex._ Ah, Mr. Attorney, lay your hand upon your heart, and

pray to God to forgive us _both_."[136]

And when sentence was passed, though it is not true that he refused to

ask for mercy, for he did it after the best fashion of his style,

"kneeling (he said) upon the very knees of his heart," yet he seemed

to threaten Elizabeth, in a tender way, with his resolution to die.

She left him, like a politic sovereign, to his fate; but is thought

never to have recovered it, as a friend. The romantic story of her

visiting the Countess of Nottingham, who had kept back a ring which

Essex sent her after his condemnation, of her shaking her on her

deathbed, and crying out that "God might forgive, but she could not,"

is more and more credited as documents transpire. The ring, it is

said, had been given to Essex, with a promise that it should serve him

in need under any circumstances, if he did but send it. It is supposed

that the non-appearance of it hurt the proud heart of Elizabeth, and

finally allowed her to let him die. Yet she was a great sovereign, and

might have suffered the law to take its course, with whatever sorrow.

She was jealous of her reputation with the old and cool-headed lords

about her. When the death, however, had taken place, she might have

fancied otherwise. Something preyed strongly on her mind towards her

decease, which happened within two years after his execution. She

refused to go to bed for ten days and nights before her death, lying

upon the carpet with cushions about her, and absorbed in the

profoundest melancholy. To be sure, this may have been disease. A

princess like Elizabeth, possessed of sovereign power, which had been

sharply exercised on some doubtful occasions, might have had

misgivings when going to die. Two certain causes of regret she must

have had for Essex. She must have been well aware that she had

alternately encouraged and irritated him over much; and she must have

known that he was a better man than many who assisted in his

overthrow, and that if he had been less worthy of regard, he probably

would have survived her, as they did.

It may easily be imagined that Essex was a man for whom a strong

affection might be entertained. He excited interest by his character,

and could maintain it by his language. In everything he did there was

a certain excess, but on the liberal side. When a youth, he plunged

into the depths of rural pleasures and books; he was lavish of his

money and good words for his friends; he said everything that came

uppermost, but then it was worth saying, only his enemies were not as

well pleased with it as his friends, and they never forgot it: in

fine, he was romantic, brave, and impassioned. He is so like a _preux

chevalier_, that till we call to mind other gallant knights who have

not been handsome, we are somewhat surprised to hear that he was not

well made, and that nothing is said of his face but that it looked

reserved--a seeming anomaly, which deep thought sometimes produces in

the countenances of open-hearted men. These were no hindrances,

however, to the admiration entertained of him by the ladies; and he

was so popular with authors and with the public, that Warton says he

could bring evidence of his scarcely ever quitting England or even the

metropolis, on the most frivolous enterprise, without a pastoral or

other poetical praise of him, which was sold and sung in the streets.

He was the friend of Spenser, most likely of Shakspeare too. being

the friend of Southampton. Spenser was well acquainted with Essex

House. In his '_Prothalamion_,' published in 1596, he has left

interesting evidence of his having visited Leicester there; and he

follows up the record with a panegyric on Leicester's successor, which

was probably his first hint to Essex that he was still in want of such

assistance as he had received from his father-in-law. The two passages

taken together render the hint rather broad, and such as would make

one a little jealous for the dignity of the great poet, were not the

manners of that time different in this respect from what they are now.

Speaking of the Temple, in the lines quoted in our last chapter, he

goes on to say--

"Next whereunto there stands a stately place,

Where oft I gayned giftes and goodly grace

Of that great lord, which therein wont to dwell.

Whose want too well now feels my friendless case:

But, ah! here fits not well

Olde woes, but ioyes, to tell

Against the bridale daye, which is not long:

Sweet Themmes! runne softly till I end my song.

Yet therein now doth lodge a noble peer,

Great England's glory, and the world's wide wonder,

Whose dreadful name late through all Spaine did thunder,

And Hercules' two pillars standing near

Did make to quake and feare:

Faire branch of honour, flower of chevalrie;

That fillest England with thy triumph's fame,

Joy have thou of thy noble victorie."

Essex no doubt took the poet at his word, both for his panegyric and

his hint: for it was he that gave Spenser his funeral in Westminster,

and he was not of a spirit to treat a great poet, as poets have

sometimes been treated--with neglect in their lifetime, and

self-complacent monuments to them after their death.

We shall close this notice (in which we have endeavoured to

concentrate all the interest we could) of the once great and applauded

Essex, whose memory long retained its popularity, and gave rise to

several tragedies, with a letter of his to the Lord Keeper Egerton, in

which there is one of his finest sentiments expressed with his most

passionate felicity. Egerton's eldest son had accompanied Essex into

Ireland, and died there, which is the subject of the letter. As

Spenser's death also happened just before the earl set out for that

country, at a moment when he might have been of political as well as

poetical use to him (for Spenser was a politician, and had been

employed in the affairs of Ireland), Mr. Todd thinks, that among the

friends alluded to, part of the regret may have been for him:

"Whatt can you receave from a cursed country butt vnfortunate

newes? whatt can be my stile (whom heaven and earth are agreed

to make a martyr) butt a stile of mourning? nott for myself

thatt I smart, _for I wold I had in my hart the sorow of all my

frends_, but I mourn that my destiny is to overlive my deerest

frendes. Of yr losse yt is neither good for me to write nor

you to reade. But I protest I felt myself sensibly dismembered,

when I lost my frend. Shew yr strength in lyfe. Lett me, yf yt

be God's will, shew yt in taking leave of the world, and

hasting after my frends. Butt I will live and dy

"More yr lp's then any

"man's living,

"ESSEX."

"_Arbrachan, this last day of August_" [1599].

"Little,"[137] says Mr. Todd, "did the generous but unfortunate

Essex then imagine, that the learned statesman, to whom this

letter of condolence was addressed, would be directed very soon

afterwards to issue an order for his execution. The original

warrant, to which the name of Elizabeth is prefixed, is now in

the possession of the Marquis of Stafford; and the queen has

written her name, not with the firmness observable in numerous

documents existing in the same and other collections, but with

apparent tremor and hesitation."

In Essex House was born another Robert, Earl of Essex, son of the

preceding, well known in history as general of the Parliament. He was

a child when his father died; and was in the hands, first, of his

grandmother, Lady Walsingham, and, secondly, of Henry Saville

(afterwards Sir Henry), under whose severe discipline he was educated

at Eton. We mention these circumstances, because they tended to keep

him in that Presbyterian interest, which his father patronised out of

a love of toleration and popularity. Perhaps, also, they did him no

good with his wives; for he married two, and was singularly

unfortunate in both. To the first, Lady Frances Howard, he was

betrothed when a boy. He travelled, returned, and married her, with

little love on his own side, and none on hers. Her connection with

Car, Earl of Somerset, and all the infamy, crime, and wretchedness it

brought upon her, are well known. Her best excuse, which is the

ordinary one in cases of great wickedness (and it is a comfort to

human nature that it is so), is, that she was a great fool. Her

dislike of her first husband was not, perhaps, the least excusable

part of her conduct, first, because she was a child like himself when

they were betrothed; and secondly, because his second wife appears to

have liked him no better. The latter was divorced also. After this,

Essex took to a country retirement, and subsequently to an active part

in the Civil Wars, during which his love of justice and affability to

his inferiors rendered him extremely popular. He was of equivocal

service, however, to the Parliament. He was a better general than

politician, not of a commanding genius in any respect, and was

suspected, not without reason, of an overweening desire to accommodate

matters too much, partly out of ignorance of what the nature of the

quarrel demanded, and partly from an affectation of playing the part

of an amicable dictator for his own aggrandisement. So the Parliament

got rid of him by the famous self-denying ordinance. Clarendon says,

that when he resigned his commission, the whole Parliament went the

day following to Essex House, to return him thanks for his great

services; but a late historian of the commonwealth says, there is no

trace of this compliment on the journals.[138] Next year they attended

him to his grave. Essex's character was a prose-copy of his father's,

with the love and romance left out.

Dr. Johnson, the year before he died, founded in Essex Street one of

his minor clubs. The Literary Club did not meet often enough for his

want of society, was too distant, and perhaps had now become too much

for his conversational ambition. He wanted a mixture of inferior

intellects to be at ease with. Accordingly, this club, which was held

at the Essex Head, then kept by a servant of Mr. Thrale, was of a more

miscellaneous nature than the other, and made no pretension to

expense. One cannot help smiling at the modest and pensive tone of the

letter which Johnson sent to Sir Joshua, inviting him to join it. "The

terms are lax, and the expenses light. We meet thrice a-week; and he

who misses, forfeits two-pence."[139] This stretch of philosophy seems

to have startled the fashionable painter, who declined to become a

member. When we find, however, in the list the names of Brocklesby,

Horsley, Daines Barrington, and Windham, Boswell has reason to say

that Sir John Hawkins's charge of its being a "low ale-house

association" appears to be sufficiently obviated. But the names might

have been subscribed out of civility without any further intention.

The club, nevertheless, was in existence when Boswell wrote, and went

on, he says, happily. Johnson said of him, when he was proposed,

"Boswell is a very _clubable_ man."

In Devereux Court, through which there is a passage round into the

Temple, is the Grecian Coffee House, supposed to be the oldest in

London. We should rather say the revival of the oldest, for the

premises were burnt down and rebuilt. The Grecian was the house from

which Steele proposed to date his learned articles in the _Tatler_.

In this court are the premises of the eminent tea-dealers, Messrs.

Twining, the front of which, surmounted with its stone figures of

Chinese, has an elegant appearance in the Strand. We notice the house,

not only on this account, but because the family have to boast of a

very accomplished scholar, the translator of the _Poetics_ of

Aristotle. Mr. Twining was contemporary with Gray and Mason at

Cambridge; and besides his acquirements as a linguist (for, in

addition to his knowledge of Greek and Latin, he wrote French and

Italian with idiomatic accuracy), was a musician so accomplished as to

lead the concerts and oratorios that were performed during term-time,

when Bate played the organ and harpsichord. He was also a lively

companion, full of wit and playfulness, yet so able to content himself

with country privacy, and so exemplary a clergyman, that for the last

forty years of his life he scarcely allowed himself to be absent from

his parishioners more than a fortnight in a year.

The church of St. Clement Danes, which unworthily occupies the open

part of the Strand, to the west of Essex Street, was the one most

frequented by Dr. Johnson. It is not known why this church was called

St. Clement _Danes_. Some think because there was a massacre of the

Danes thereabouts; others because Harold Harefoot was buried there;

and others, because the Danes had the quarter given them to live in,

when Alfred the Great drove them out of London, the monarch at the

same time building the church, in order to assist their conversion to

Christianity. The name _St. Clement_ has been derived with probability

from the patron saint of Pope Clement III., a great friend of the

Templars, to whom the church at one time belonged. St. Clement's was

rebuilt towards the end of the century before last by Edward Pierce,

under the direction of Sir Christopher Wren, but is a very incongruous

ungainly edifice. Its best aspect is at night-time in winter, when

the deformities of its body are not seen, and the pale steeple rises

with a sort of ghastliness of grandeur through the cloudy atmosphere.

The chimes may still be heard at midnight, as Falstaff describes

having heard them with Justice Shallow. If they did not execute one of

Handel's psalm-tunes, we should take them to be the very same he

speaks of, and conclude that they had grown hoarse with age and

sitting-up; for to our knowledge they have lost some of their notes

these twenty years, and the rest are falling away. A steeple should

set a better example.

A few years back, when the improvements on the north side, in this

quarter, had not been followed by those on the south, Gay's picture of

the avenue between the church and the houses was true in all its

parts. We remember the "combs dangling in our faces," and almost

mourned their loss for the sake of the poet.

"Where the fair columns of St. Clement stand,

Whose straiten'd bounds encroach upon the Strand;

Where the low penthouse bows the walker's head,

And the rough pavement wounds the yielding tread;

Where not a post protects the narrow space,

And, strung in twines, combs dangle in thy face;

Summon at once thy courage, rouse thy care,

Stand firm, look back, be resolute, beware.

Forth issuing from steep lanes, the collier's steeds

Drag the black load; another cart succeeds;

Team follows team, crowds heap'd on crowds appear,

And wait impatient till the road grow clear."

Everybody can testify to the truth of this description. A little

patience, however, is well repaid by the sight of the noble creatures

dragging up the loads. The horses of the colliers and brewers of

London are worth notice at all times for the magnificence of their

_build_. Gay proceeds to other particulars, now no longer to be

encountered. He cautions you how you lose your sword; and adds a

pleasant mode of theft, practised in those times:--

"Nor is the flaxen wig with safety worn:

High on the shoulder, in a basket borne,

Lurks the sly boy, whose hands, to rapine bred,

Plucks off the curling honours of thy head."[140]

Clement's Inn is named from the church. The device over the gate, of

an anchor and the letter C, is supposed to allude to the martyrdom of

St. Clement, who is said to have been tied to an anchor and thrown

into the sea, by order of the Emperor Trajan.

"The hall is situated on the south side of a neat but small

quadrangle. It is a Tuscan diminutive building, with a very

large Corinthian door, and arched windows, erected in 1715.

Another irregular area is surrounded by convenient houses, in

which are the possessor's chambers. Part of this is a pretty

garden, with a kneeling African, of considerable merit,

supporting a dial, on the eastern side."[141]

In Knox's _Elegant Extracts_ are some lines on this negro, which have

often been repeated:--

"In vain, poor sable son of woe,

Thou seek'st the tender tear;

For thee in vain with pangs they flow;

For mercy dwells not here.

From cannibals thou fledst in vain;

Lawyers less quarter give;

The first won't eat you till you're slain,

The last will do't alive."

This inn, like all the other inns of court, is of great antiquity.

Dugdale states it to have been an inn of Chancery in the reign of

Edward II. Some have conjectured, according to Mr. Moser, "that near

this spot stood an inn, as far back as the time of King Ethelred, for

the reception of penitents who came to St. Clement's Well; that a

religious house was in process of time established, and that the

church rose in consequence." Be this as it may, the holy brotherhood

was probably removed to some other institution; the Holy Lamb, an inn

on the west side of the lane, received the guests; and the monastery

was converted, or rather perverted, from the purposes of the gospel to

those of the law, and was probably, in this profession, considered as

a house of considerable antiquity in the days of Shakspeare; for he,

who with respect to this kind of chronology may be safely quoted,

makes in the second act of Henry IV. one of his justices a member of

that society:--

"He must to the Inns of Court. I was of Clement's once myself,

where they talk of Mad Shallow still."

A pump now covers St. Clement's Well. Fitzstephen, in his description

of London, in the reign of Henry II., speaks of certain "excellent

springs at a small distance" from the city, "whose waters are sweet,

salubrious, and clear, and whose runnels murmur o'er the shining

stones: among these," he continues, "Holywell, Clerkenwell, and St.

Clement's Well may be esteemed the principal, as being much the most

frequented, both by the scholars from the school (Westminster) and the

youth from the city, when on a summer's evening they are disposed to

take an airing."

Six hundred years and upwards have elapsed since Fitzstephen wrote. It

is pleasant to think that the well has lasted so long, and that the

place is still quiet.

The Clare family, who have left their name to Clare Market, appear to

have occupied Clement's Inn during part of the reign of the Tudors.

From their hands it reverted to those of the law. It is an appendage

to the Inner Temple. We are not aware of any greater legal personage

having been bred there, than the one just mentioned. Shallow takes

delight in his local recollections, particularly of this inn. In one

of the masterly scenes of this kind, Falstaff's corroboration of a

less pleasant recollection, and Shallow's anger against the cause of

it, after such a lapse of time, are very ludicrous.

"_Shallow._ Oh, Sir John, do you remember since we lay all

night in the windmill in St. George's Fields?

"_Fals._ No more of that, good Master Shallow, no more of that.

"_Shal._ Ha, it was a merry night. And is Jane Nightwork alive?

"_Fals._ She lives, Master Shallow.

"_Shal._ She never could away with me.

"_Fals._ Never, never; she would always say she could not abide

Master Shallow.

"_Shal._ By the mass. I could anger her to the heart. She was

then a bonaroba. Doth she hold her own well?--and had Robin

Nightwork by old Nightwork, before I came to Clement's Inn.

"_Silence._ That's fifty-five years ago.

"_Shal._ Ha, Cousin Silence, that thou hadst seen that that

this knight and I have seen! Ah, Sir John, said I well?

"_Fals._ We have heard the chimes at midnight, Master Shallow.

"_Shal._ That we have, that we have, that we have; in faith,

Sir John, we have; our watchword was, _Hem, boys_! Come, let's

to dinner: come, let's to dinner: Oh, the days that we have

seen! Come, come."[142]

The sites of Arundel, Norfolk, Surrey, and Howard Streets (the last of

which crosses the others), were formerly occupied by the house and

grounds originally constituting the town residence of the Bishop of

Bath and Wells, then of the Lord High Admiral Seymour, and afterwards

of the Howards Earls of Arundel, from whom it came into possession of

the Duke of Norfolk. It was successively called Bath's Inn (Hampton

Place, according to some, but we know not why), Seymour Place, Arundel

House, and Norfolk House. It was a wide low house, but according to

Sully, who lodged in it when he was ambassador to James I., very

convenient, on account of the multitude of rooms on the same floor.

In this house the Lord High Admiral, Thomas Seymour, brother of the

Protector Somerset, in the reign of Edward VI., contrived to place the

Princess (afterwards Queen) Elizabeth, with a design of possessing her

person, and sharing her succession to the Crown. No doubt is

entertained of these views by the historians. Elizabeth was not averse

to him, though he had lately married the Queen Dowager (Catherine

Parr); and some gossipping stories transpired of the evidences of

their good-will. Catherine's death increased the suspicion, and she

herself expressed it on her death-bed. Seymour's ambition, however,

shortly brought him to the scaffold, and saved us from a King Thomas

I., who would probably, as Pennant thinks, have been a very bad one.

We have mentioned the Countess of Nottingham who withheld from

Elizabeth the ring sent her by Essex. It was in this house she died.

Her husband was a Howard, and, probably, she was on a visit there. We

take an opportunity, therefore, of relating the particulars of that

romantic story, as collected by the accurate Dr. Birch, and repeated

in the _Memoirs of the Peers of England during the reign of James I._

"The following curious story," says the compiler of this work, "was

frequently told by Lady Elizabeth Spelman, great grand-daughter of Sir

Robert Carey, brother of Lady Nottingham, and afterwards Earl of

Monmouth, whose curious memoirs of himself were published a few years

ago by Lord Corke."

"When Catherine, Countess of Nottingham, was dying (as she did,

according to his lordship's own account, about a fortnight

before Queen Elizabeth), she sent to her Majesty to desire that

she might see her, in order to reveal something to her Majesty

without the discovery of which she could not die in peace. Upon

the Queen's coming, Lady Nottingham told her, that, while the

Earl of Essex lay under sentence of death, he was desirous of

asking her Majesty's mercy, in the manner prescribed by

herself, during the height of his favour; the Queen having

given him a ring, which being sent to her as a token of his

distress, might entitle him to her protection. But the earl,

jealous of those about him, and not caring to trust any of them

with it, as he was looking out of his window one morning, saw a

boy, with whose appearance he was pleased; and engaging him by

money and promises, directed him to carry the ring, which he

took from his finger and threw down, to Lady Scroope, a sister

of the Countess of Nottingham, and a friend of his lordship,

who attended upon the Queen; and to beg of her that she would

present it to her Majesty. The boy, by mistake, carried it to

Lady Nottingham, who showed it to her husband, the admiral, an

enemy of Lord Essex, in order to take his advice. The admiral

forbid her to carry it, or return any answer to the message;

but insisted upon her keeping the ring.

"The Countess of Nottingham, having made this discovery, begged

the Queen's forgiveness; but her Majesty answered, '_God may

forgive you, but I never can_,' and left the room with great

emotion. Her mind was so struck with the story that she never

went into bed, nor took any sustenance from that instant, for

Camden is of opinion, that her chief reason for suffering the

earl to be executed, was his supposed obstinacy in not applying

to her for mercy."[143]

"In confirmation of the time of the countess's death,"

continues the compiler, "it now appears from the parish

register of Chelsea, extracted by Mr. Lysons (_Environs of

London_, vol. ii., p. 120), that she died at Arundel House,

London, February 25, and was buried the 28th, 1603. Her funeral

was kept at Chelsea, March 21st; and Queen Elizabeth died three

days afterwards."

Clarendon gives a singular character of this house and its master when

it was in possession of Thomas Howard, Earl of Arundel. He says that

the earl

"Seemed to live, as it were, in another nation, his house being

a place to which all people resorted, who resorted to no other

place; strangers, or such as affected to look like strangers,

and dressed themselves accordingly. He was willing to be

thought a scholar, and to understand the most mysterious parts

of antiquity, because he made a wonderful and costly purchase

of excellent statues whilst in Italy and in Rome (some whereof

he could never obtain permission to remove out of Rome, though

he had paid for them), and had a rare collection of medals. As

to all parts of learning, he was almost illiterate, and thought

no other part of history so considerable as what related to his

own family, in which, no doubt, there had been some very

memorable persons. It cannot be denied that he had in his own

person, in his aspect and countenance, the appearance of a

great man, which he preserved in his gait and motion. He wore

and affected a habit very different from that of the time, such

as men had only beheld in pictures of the most considerable

men; all which drew the eyes of most, and the reverence of

many, towards him, as the image and representative of the

ancient nobility, and native gravity of the nobles, when they

had been most venerable; but this was only his outside, his

nature and true humour being much disposed to levity and

delights, which indeed were very despicable and childish."

The marbles here mentioned, now at Oxford, were collected at Arundel

House. This character from the pen of Clarendon has been thought too

severe. Perhaps the earl had given the noble historian a repulse when

he was nothing but plain Mr. Hyde; for personal resentments of this

sort are apparent in his writings. The last Duke of Norfolk but one,

who wrote anecdotes on the Howard family, asks how the man who

collected the Oxford marbles could be the slave of such family

self-love as Clarendon describes, and how it was that he held the

first places in the state, and the most important commissions abroad.

It is well-known, however, that a man may do all this, and yet be more

fortunate than wise. Arundel was certainly proud, if not dull; and the

proudest men are not apt to be the brightest. It was he that, in a

dispute with Lord Spenser, in the Upper House, when the latter spoke

of the treason of the earl's ancestors, said, "My lord, my lord, while

my ancestors were plotting treason, yours were keeping sheep." He

little thought that his marbles would help to bring about a time, when

an historian, by no means indifferent to rank and title, should regard

a romantic poem as the "brightest jewel" in a ducal coronet, and that

coronet be a Spenser's.[144]

At the south-west corner of Norfolk Street lived at one time the

famous Penn, who from being a coxcomb in his youth became a Quaker and

a founder of a state. However, his coxcombry was a falling-off from

early seriousness. His father was a rough admiral, who could not for

the life of him conceive why his son should relapse into a preciseness

so unlike the rest of the world, and so unfitted to succeed at court.

Voltaire says,[145] that young Penn (for he was little more than

twenty years of age) appeared suddenly before his father in a Quaker

dress, and to the old man's astonishment and indignation said, without

moving his hat, "Friend Penn, how dost thee do?" But, according to

more serious biographers, the change was not so sudden. The hat,

however, was a great matter of contention between them, the admiral

wishing to stipulate that his son should uncover to the King (Charles

II.), the King's brother, and himself; but Penn having recourse to

"fasting and supplication," found that his hat was not to be moved.

These were the weaknesses of a young enthusiast. His enthusiasm

remained for greater purposes; but he is understood to have grown

wiser with regard to the rest, though he continued a Quaker for life.

Penn, though a legislator, never seems to have given up a taste for

good living. His appearance in the portraits of him, notwithstanding

his garb, is fat and festive; and he died of apoplexy.

In the same house, we believe, that had been occupied by Penn[146],

resided an author who must not be passed over in a work of this kind;

to wit, the indefatigable and honest antiquary, Dr. Birch. He came of

a Quaker stock. Birch astonished his friends by going a great deal

into company; but the secret of his uniting sociality with labour, was

his early rising. This, which appears to be one of the main secrets of

longevity, ought to have kept him older, for he died at the age of

sixty-one: but he was probably festive as well social, and should have

taken more exercise. Being a bad horseman, he was thrown on the

Hampstead road, and killed on the spot; but the doctors were uncertain

whether apoplexy had not a hand in the disaster. In speaking of Birch,

nobody should omit a charming billet, written to him by his first

wife, almost in the article of death. The death took place within a

year after their marriage, and was accelerated by childbed.

"This day I return you, my dearest life, my sincere hearty

thanks for every favour bestowed on your most faithful and

obedient wife.

"_July 31, 1729._" "HANNAH BIRCH."[147]

In Norfolk Street, for upwards of thirty years, lived Dr. Brocklesby,

the friend and physician of Dr. Johnson. Physicians of this class may,

_par excellence_, be styled the friends of men of letters. They

partake of their accomplishments, understand their infirmities,

sympathise with their zeal to do good, and prolong their lives by the

most delicate and disinterested attentions. Between no two professions

has a more liberal and cordial intimacy been maintained than between

literature and medicine. Brocklesby was an honour to the highest of

his calling.

"In the course of his practice," we are told that "his advice,

as well as his purse, was ever accessible to the poor, as well

as to men of merit who stood in need of either. Besides giving

his advice to the poor of all descriptions, which he did with

an active and unwearied benevolence, he had always upon his

list two or three poor widows, to whom he granted small

annuities; and who, on the quarter-day of receiving their

stipends, always partook of the hospitalities of his table. To

his relations, who wanted his assistance in their business or

professions, he was not only liberal, but so judicious in his

liberalities as to supersede the necessity of a repetition of

them. To his friend Dr Johnson (when it was in agitation

amongst his friends to procure an enlargement of his pension,

the better to enable him to travel for the benefit of his

health), he offered an establishment of one hundred pounds per

year during his life; and upon Dr. Johnson's declining it

(which he did in the most affectionate terms of gratitude and

friendship), he made him a second offer of apartments in his

own house, for the more immediate benefit of medical advice. To

his old and intimate friend Edmund Burke, he had many years

back bequeathed by will the sum of one thousand pounds; but

recollecting that this event might take place (which it

afterwards did) when such a legacy could be of no service to

him, he, with that judicious liberality for which he was always

distinguished, gave it to him in advance, '_ut pignus

amicitæ_:' it was accepted as such by Mr. Burke, accompanied

with a letter, which none but a man feeling the grandeur and

purity of friendship like him could dictate."[148]

If it be dangerous in the present condition of society, to incur

pecuniary obligations, particularly for those who are more qualified

to think than to act, and who may ultimately startle to find

themselves in positions in which they can neither prove the benefit

done them, nor the good feelings which allowed them to receive it,

nobody can doubt the generosity of such a man as Brocklesby; who, so

far from being a mere patron, jealous of being obliged himself, was

equally as prepared to receive kindness as to show it. Proposing just

before he died to go down to Burke's house at Beaconsfield, and

somebody hinting to him the danger of being fatigued, and of lying out

of his own bed, he replied with his usual calmness, "My good friend,

I perfectly understand your hint, and am thankful to you for it; but

where's the difference, whether I die _at a friend's house_, at an

inn, or in a postchaise? I hope I am every way prepared for such an

event, and perhaps it is as well to elude the expectation of it." This

was said like a man, and a friend. Brocklesby was not one who would

cant about giving trouble at such a moment--the screen of those who

hate to be troubled; neither would he grudge a friend the melancholy

satisfaction of giving him a bed to die in. He better understood the

first principles which give light and life to the world, and left

jealousy and misgiving to the vulgar.

Dr. Brocklesby died at his house in the street above mentioned, and

was buried in the churchyard. Lee was buried, "at St. Clement Danes;"

probably, therefore, in the churchyard also. There are now in that

spot some trees, by far the best things about the church. The reader

may imagine them to shade the places where the poet and the physician

lie.

Arundel or Norfolk House, after the great fire, became the temporary

place of meeting for the Royal Society, previously to its return to

Gresham College. It was pulled down on their leaving it, the century

before last, and the streets before mentioned built in its room. They

appear to have been favourite places of residence with persons

connected with the drama. Congreve lived in Surrey Street, Mountford

the player in Norfolk Street, Mrs. Bracegirdle in Howard Street, and

Mrs. Barry somewhere near her.

Congreve died where he had lived (Jan. 29, 1728-9), after having been

for several years afflicted with blindness and gout; of which,

however, he seems to have made the best he could, by the help of good

sense and naturally good spirits. If his wits ever failed him, it was

in the propensity to a love of rank and fashion, which, in spite of

all that he had seen in the world, never forsook him. It originated

probably in the need he thought he had of them, when he first set out

in life. The finest sense of men of his cast does not rise above a

graceful selfishness. It was most probably in Surrey Street (for he

had come to the "verge of life"), that he had a visit paid him by

Voltaire, who has recorded the disgust given him by an ebullition of

his foppery: for the Frenchman had a great admiration of him as a

writer. "Congreve spoke of his works," says Voltaire, "as of trifles

that were beneath him; and hinted to me, in our first conversation,

that I should visit him upon no other foot than upon that of a

gentleman, who led a life of plainness and simplicity. I answered,

_that had he been so unfortunate as to be a mere gentleman_, I should

never have come to see him; and I was very much disgusted at so

unseasonable a piece of vanity."[149] Our readers will admire the

fineness of this rebuke.

But the most glaring instance of this propensity was his leaving the

bulk of his fortune to a duchess, when he had poor relations in want

of it.

"Having lain in state," says Johnson, "in the Jerusalem

Chamber, he was buried in Westminster Abbey, where a monument

is erected to his memory by Henrietta, Duchess of Marlborough,

to whom, for reasons either not known or not mentioned, he

bequeathed a legacy of about ten thousand pounds, the

accumulation of attentive parsimony, which, though to her

superfluous and useless, might have given great assistance to

the ancient family from which he descended; at that time, by

the imprudence of his relation, reduced to difficulties and

distress."[150]

"Congreve," says Dr. Young, "was very intimate for years with

Mrs. Bracegirdle, who lived in the same street--his house very

near hers; until his acquaintance with the young Duchess of

Marlborough. He then quitted that house. The duchess showed me

a diamond necklace (which Lady Di. used afterwards to wear),

that cost seven thousand pounds, and was purchased with the

money Congreve left her. How much better would it have been to

have given it to poor Mrs. Bracegirdle!"[151]

Yet this dramatist, throughout his life, had had the good word of

everybody. All parties praised him: all parties kept him in office (he

had some places that are said to have produced him twelve hundred a

year): Pope dedicated his _Iliad_ to him; called him, after his death,

_Ultimus Romanorum_; and added that "Garth, Vanbrugh, and he were the

three most honest-hearted, real good men of the Kit-Kat Club!"[152]

The secret of this is, that Congreve loved above all things to be at

ease, and spoke politicly of everybody. He had a bad opinion of

mankind, as we may see by his comedies; and he made the best of it, by

conversing with them as if he took heed of their claws. The only

person, we believe, that he ever opposed, was Collier, who attacked

the stage with more spirit than elegance, and who was at enmity with

the whole world of wit and fashion. We are far from thinking with

Collier, that the abuses of the stage outweigh the benefit it does to

the world; nor do we think the world by any means so bad as Congreve

supposed it, nor himself either: but it is useful to know the

tendencies of those who have a habit of thinking otherwise.

Congreve's bequest created a good deal of gossip. Curll, the principal

scandal-monger of those times, got up a catch-penny life of him,

professing to be written by "Charles Wilson, Esq.," but supposed to be

the work of Oldmixon. There is no relying upon Charles Wilson; but,

from internal evidence, we may take his word occasionally; and we may

believe him when he says that the duchess and her friends were alarmed

at the threatened book. The picture which he draws of her manner has

also an air like a woman of quality. She had demanded a sight of the

documents on which the book was founded; and being refused, asked what

authority they had, and what pieces contained in it were genuine.

"Upon being civilly told there would be found several essays, letters,

and characters of that gentleman's writing," says Mr. Wilson, "she,

with a most affected, extraordinary, dramatic drawl, cried out, 'Not

one single sheet of paper, I dare to swear.'"[153] Mr. Wilson's own

grand air in return is very amusing. He speaks of Arbuthnot's coming

with "expresses," probably to Curll's; and adds, that if he be

despatched with any more, "he may, if he please, come to me, who am as

easily to be found in Great Russell Street, Bloomsbury, _when in

town_, as he is in Burlington Gardens.--Cha. Wilson."

Mr. Wilson's book opens with a copy of the will, in which 500_l._ are

left among the Congreves; about 500_l._ more to friends and domestics,

&c. (not omitting 200_l._ to Mrs. Bracegirdle); and all the rest (with

power to annul or increase the complimentary part of the legacies) to

the Duchess of Marlborough. We know not that anybody could have

brought forward grounds for objecting to this will, had the duchess

been poor herself; for his relations may or may not have had claims

upon him--relations, as such, not being of necessity friends, though

it is generally fit that they should partake of the family prosperity.

We except, of course, a man's immediate kindred, particularly those

whom he has brought into the world. But here was a woman, rolling in

wealth, and relatives neither entirely forgotten, nor yet, it seems,

properly assisted. The bequest must, therefore, either have been a

mere piece of vanity, or the consequence of habitual subjection to a

woman's humours. The duchess was not ungrateful to his memory. She

raised him, as we have seen, a monument; and it is related in Cibber's

_Lives of the Poets_,[154] we know not on what authority, that she

missed his company so much, as to cause "an image of him to be placed

every day on her toilet-table, to which she would talk as to the

living Mr. Congreve, with all the freedom of the most _polite_ and

_unreserved_ conversation." There is something very ludicrous in this

way of putting a case, which might otherwise be affecting. It is as if

there had been a sort of polite mania on both sides.

Congreve's plays are exquisite of their kind, and the excessive

heartlessness and duplicity of some of his characters are not to be

taken without allowance for the _ugly ideal_. There is something not

natural, both in his characters and wit; and we read him rather to see

how entertaining he can make his superfine ladies and gentlemen, and

what a pack of sensual busybodies they are, like insects over a pool,

than from any true sense of them as "men and women." As a companion he

must have been exquisite to a woman of fashion. We can believe that

the duchess, in ignorance of any tragic emotion but what was mixed

with his loss, would really talk with a waxen image of him in a

peruke, and think the universe contained nothing better. It was

carrying wit and politeness beyond the grave. Queen Constance in

Shakspeare makes grief put on the pretty looks of her lost child: the

Duchess of Marlborough made it put on a wig and jaunty air, such as

she had given her friend in his monument in Westminster Abbey. No

criticism on his plays could be more perfect. Congreve's serious

poetry is a refreshment, from its extreme insipidity and common-place.

Everybody is innocent in some corner of the mind, and has faith in

something. Congreve had no faith in his fellow-creatures, but he had a

scholar's (not a poet's) belief in nymphs and weeping fauns; and he

wrote elegies full of them, upon queens and marquisses. If it be true

that he wrote the character of Aspasia (Lady Elizabeth Hastings), in

the _Tatler_ (No. 42), he had indeed faith in something better; for in

that paper is not only given an admiring account of a person of very

exalted excellence, but the author has said of her one of the finest

things that a sincere heart could utter; namely, that "to love her was

a liberal education." We cannot help thinking, however, that the

generous and trusting hand of Steele is very visible throughout this

portrait; and in the touch just mentioned, in particular.

The engaging manners of Mrs. Bracegirdle gave rise to a tragical

circumstance in Howard Street--the death of Mountford her

fellow-player. Mrs. Bracegirdle, one of the most popular actresses of

that time, was a brunette, not remarkable for her beauty, but so much

so for the attractiveness superior to beauty, that Cibber calls her

the "darling of the stage," and says it was a kind of fashion for the

young men about town to have a tenderness for her. This general regard

she preserved by setting a value on herself, not so common with

actresses at that time as it has been since. Accordingly, some made

honourable proposals, which were then still more remarkable. In Rowe's

poems, there is a bantering epistle to an Earl of S----, advising him

not to care for what people might think, but to pursue his

inclinations to that effect. Among others a Captain Hill made

desperate love, professing the same intentions; but he was a man of

bad character, and the lady would have nothing to say to him. The

captain, like a proper coxcomb, took it into his head that nothing

could have prevented his success, but some other person; and he fixed

upon Mountford as the happy man. Mountford was the best lover and

finest gentleman then on the stage, as Mrs. Bracegirdle was the most

charming heroine; but it does not appear that Hill had any greater

ground for his suspicion than their frequent performance in the same

play, which, however, to a jealous man, must have been extremely

provoking. They used to act Alexander and Statira together. In

Mountford's Alexander, according to Cibber, there were seen "the

great, the tender, the penitent, the despairing, the transported, and

the amiable, in the highest perfection;" and "if anything," he said,

"could excuse that desperate extravagance of love, that almost frantic

passion," it was when Mrs. Bracegirdle was the Statira. Imagine a

dark-souled fellow in the pit thinking himself in love with this

Statira, and that the passion between her and the Alexander was real.

This play was acted a few nights before the catastrophe which we are

about to relate.

Hill was intimate with another man of bad character, Lord Mohun; who

agreed to assist him in carrying off Mrs. Bracegirdle. The captain had

often said that he would be "revenged" upon Mountford; and dining with

Lord Mohun on the day when they attempted the execution of their plot,

he said, further, that he would "stab" him "if he resisted;" upon

which Mohun said that he would "stand by his friend."

Mohun and Hill met at the playhouse at six o'clock, changed clothes

there, and waited some time for Mrs. Bracegirdle; but not finding her

come, they took a coach which they had ordered to be ready, drove

towards her lodgings in Howard Street, and then back to Drury Lane,

where they directed the coach to stop near Lord Clare's house (by the

present Craven Buildings). Mrs. Bracegirdle had been supping at a Mr.

Page's, in Princess Street, Drury Lane. She came out, accompanied by

her mother, brother, and Mr. Page, and was seized by Hill, who, with

the aid of a number of soldiers, endeavoured to force her into the

coach. In the coach was Lord Mohun, with seven or eight pistols. Old

Mrs. Bracegirdle threw her arms round her daughter's waist; her other

friends, and at length the passengers, interfered; and our heroine

succeeded in getting into her lodgings in Howard Street, Hill and

Mohun following them on foot. When they all came to the door, Hill

would have spoken with Page, but the latter refused; and the door was

shut. A witness, at the trial of Lord Mohun, deposed, that they

knocked several times at the door, and then the captain entreated to

beg pardon of Mrs. Bracegirdle for having affronted her, but in vain.

Hill and Mohun remained in the street. They sent to a tavern for a

bottle of wine, and perambulated before the door with drawn swords.

Mrs. Browne, the mistress of the house, came out to know what they did

there; upon which Hill said that he would light upon Mountford some

day or other, and that he would be revenged on him. The people

in-doors, upon this, sent to Mountford's house in Norfolk Street, to

inform his wife; and she despatched messengers to all the places where

he was likely to be found, to warn him of his danger, but they could

not meet with him. Meanwhile the constables and watchmen come up and

ask the strangers what they mean. They say they are drinking a bottle

of wine. Lord Mohun adds that he is ready to put up his sword,

remarking, withal, that he is a "peer of the realm." Upon asking why

the other gentleman did not put up his, his lordship tells them, that

his friend had lost the scabbard. The watchmen, like "ancient and

quiet watchmen," go away to the tavern to "examine who they are;" and

in the meantime Mountford makes his appearance coming up the street.

Mountford lived in Norfolk Street, but he turned out of the path that

led to his own house, and was coming towards Mrs. Bracegirdle's--whether

to her house, or to any other, does not appear. By this time two hours

had elapsed. Mrs. Browne, who seems to have remained watching at the

door, caught sight of Mountford, and hastened to warn him how he

advanced. She was either not quick enough, or Mountford (which appears

most likely) pressed on in spite of what she said, and, according to

her statement, the following dialogue took place between him and Lord

Mohun:--

"Your humble servant, my lord."

"Your servant, Mr. Mountford. I have a great respect for you,

Mr. Mountford, and would have no difference between us; but

there is a thing fallen out between Mr. Hill and Mrs.

Bracegirdle."

"My lord, has my wife disobliged your lordship? if she has, she

shall ask your pardon. But Mrs. Bracegirdle is no concern of

mine: I know nothing of this matter; I come here by accident.

But I hope your lordship will not vindicate Hill in such

actions as these are."

Upon this, according to Mrs. Browne's statement, Hill bade Mountford

draw; which the other said he would; but whether he received his wound

before or after she could not tell, owing to its being night-time.

Another female witness, who lived next door, gives the dialogue as

follows. Lord Mohun begins:--

"Mr. Mountford, your humble servant. I am glad to see you"

(embracing him).

"Who is this? my Lord Mohun?"

"Yes, it is."

"What bringeth your lordship here at this time of night?"

"I suppose you were sent for, Mr. Mountford?"

"No, indeed; I came by chance."

"You have heard of the business of Mrs. Bracegirdle?"

_Hill_ (interfering). "Pray, my lord, hold your tongue, This is

not a convenient time to discuss this business." (On saying

which, the witness adds, that he would have drawn Mohun away.)

_Mountford._ "I am very sorry, my lord, to see that your

lordship should assist Captain Hill in so ill an action as

this: pray let me desire your lordship to forbear."

As soon as he had uttered these words Hill, according to the witness,

came up and struck Mountford a box on the ear; upon which the latter

demanded with an oath, "what that was for;" and then she gives a

confused account of the result, which was the receipt of a mortal

wound by the poor actor. It was agreed that Mountford's sword was not

drawn in the first instance, and that Hill's was; and the question was

settled by the dying deposition of Mountford, who stated several times

over, that Lord Mohun offered him no violence, but that Hill struck

him with his left hand, and then ran him through the body, before he

had time to draw in defence.

Mountford died next day. Hill fled at the time, and we hear no more of

him. Mohun was tried for his life, but acquitted, for want of

evidence, of malice prepense. The truth is, he was a great fool, and

Hill appears to have been another. The captain himself, probably, did

not know what he intended, though his words would have hung him had he

been caught. They were a couple of box-lobby swaggerers, who had

heated themselves with wine; and Hill, who told the constables "they

might knock him down if they liked," and was for drawing Mohun away on

Mountford's appearance, was most likely overcome with rage and

jealousy at hearing the latter speak of him with rebuke. Mohun was at

that time very young. He never ceased, however, hankering after this

sort of excitement to his dulness, till he got killed in a duel about

an estate with the Duke of Hamilton, who was at the same time mortally

wounded. Swift, in a letter about it, calls Mohun a "dog." Pennant

says, that when his body was taken home bleeding (to his house in

Gerrard Street), "Lady Mohun was very angry at its being flung upon

the best bed."[155]

In front of the spot now occupied by St. Mary-le-Strand, commonly

called the New Church, anciently stood a cross, at which, says Stowe,

"in the year 1294, and other times, the justices itinerant sat without

London." In the place of this cross was set up a May-pole, by a

blacksmith named John Clarges, whose daughter Ann became the wife of

Monk, Duke of Albemarle. It was for a long time in a state of decay,

and having been taken down in 1713, a new one was erected opposite

Somerset House. This second May-pole had two gilt balls and a vane on

the summit, and was decorated on holidays with flags and garlands.

The races in the "Dunciad" take place

"Where the tall May-pole overlook'd the Strand."

It was removed in 1718, probably being thought in the way of the new

church, which was then being finished. Sir Isaac Newton begged it of

the parish, and afterwards sent it to the Rector of Wanstead, who set

it up in Wanstead Park to support the then largest telescope in

Europe. The gift of John Clarges came a day too late. In old times,

May had been a great holiday in the streets of London. We shall speak

further of it when we come to the parish of St. Andrew Undershaft, so

called from a May-pole higher than the church. But though the holiday

returned with the Restoration, it never properly recovered the disuse

occasioned by the civil wars, and the contempt thrown on it by the

spirit of puritanism. We gained too many advantages by the

thoughtfulness generated in those times to quarrel with their

mistakes; and have no doubt that the progress of knowledge to which

they gave an impulse, will bring back the advantages they omitted by

the way.[156]

The New Church, or, more properly, the Church of St. Mary-le-Strand,

was built by Gibbs, the architect of St. Martin-in-the-Fields. It was

one of the "fifty," improperly so called, that are said to have been

built in the reign of Queen Anne; for though fifty were ordered, the

number was not completed. The old church in this quarter, which stood

at a little distance to the south, was removed by the Protector

Somerset, to make way for Somerset House, and has never been restored.

The parishioners went to the neighbouring churches. The New Church is

in the pretty, over-ornamented style, very different from that of St.

Martin's with its noble front: and though far better than St.

Clement's, and as superior to many places of worship built lately[157]

as art is superior to ignorance, yet it surely is not worthy of its

advantageous situation. It is one of those toys of architecture which

have been said to require glass cases. For the superfluous height of

the steeple, Gibbs offered an excuse. A column was to have been

erected near the church in honour of Queen Anne, but, as the Queen

died, she was no longer thought deserving the column, and the

architect was ordered to make a steeple with the materials, whereas he

had intended only a belfry. Now, to render the steeple fitting, the

church should have had a wider base; but the structure was already

begun, and there was no changing the plan of it. It might be still

argued, that the steeple should not have been made so high: but then,

what was to be done with the stones? This, in the mouth of parish

virtù, was a triumphant reply. After all, however, the artist need not

have spoilt his church with ornament. He said, that being situated in

a very public place, "the parishioners" spared no cost to beautify it;

but to beautify a church is not to make it a piece of confectionery.[158]

Somerset House occupies the site of a princely mansion built by

Somerset the Protector, brother of Lady Jane Seymour, and uncle to

King Edward VI. His character is not sufficiently marked to give any

additional interest to the spot. He was great by accident; lost and

gained his greatness, according as others acted upon it; and

ultimately resigned it on the scaffold. The house he left became the

property of the Crown, and was successively in possession of Queen

Elizabeth and of the queens of James I., Charles I., and Charles II.

The rooms in this house witnessed many joyous scenes and many anxious

ones. Somerset had not long inhabited it when he was taken to the

scaffold. Elizabeth, in her wise economy, lent it to her cousin Lord

Hunsdon, whom she frequently visited within its walls.

During its occupation by James's queen, Anne of Denmark (from whose

family it was called Denmark House), Wilson says, that a constant

masquerade was going on, the Queen and her ladies, "like so many

sea-nymphs, or nereids," appearing in various dresses, "to the

ravishment of the beholders."[159]

Here began the struggle for mastery between Charles I. and Henrietta

Maria, which terminated in favour of the latter, though the King

behaved himself manfully at first. Henrietta had brought over with her

a meddling French household which, after repeated grievances, his

Majesty was obliged to send "packing." He summoned them all together

one evening in the house, and addressed them as follows:--

"Gentlemen and ladies,

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