In the absence of a standing army, it is truly astonishing by what magic
spell the inhabitants of these remote portions of His Majesty's
dominions are bound to his rule. Owing to the difficulties inseparable
from the introduction of an armed force for their chastisement, and the
inaccessible nature of their fastnesses, no situation could be more
favourable to revolt and to rebellion. But it is obvious that the wily
policy of government will prove successful, so long as the fear of the
Galla is strong in the breast both of Christian and Mohammadan, and so
long as the name of Sahela Selassie shall continue to act as a potent
talisman upon all the savage, turbulent, and refractory spirits who
people his disunited empire.
During the early portion of the night, the shrill crowing, as of an
hundred cocks, might have induced the belief that the wild camp stood in
the neighbourhood of Ankober, where chanticleer taxes his throat almost
incessantly; but the sound to which the wild hills now rung was soon
ascertained to proceed from the Amhara pickets. With a view to
compensate in some measure for the brief sojourn conceded to us in the
low country, we were hurried off the moment the morning star appeared,
in order to beleaguer a field of reeds occupying the bed of the Casam.
It was said by the governor to terminate in a _cul de sac_, and to be
one great den of lions, no fewer than eight having fallen under the
spears of the Adaiel in an attack made some years previously. Our path
traversed the deep broken bed of the river, the lofty castellated walls
of which, rising sternly in the moonlight, were garrisoned by a legion
of baboons, and before dawn we halted on a sheet of bare rock, over
which a small stream of water fell by a time-worn channel into a deep
dark basin;--many hundred acres of tall waving flags, interspersed by
shady tamarind trees, stretching away over the long reach beyond.
But the capabilities of the place proved to have been greatly
exaggerated; and, although certainly harbouring a vast number of the
_felinae_, it was far too extensive and too tangled--too impervious to
man, and too unassailable by fire--to admit even of a chance of success.
An agazin and an oryx, of which numbers fled in all directions, were
hunted down by the host of retainers, aided by their dogs. A feeble
attempt was then made to dislodge the inmates of the wide covert, by a
general screaming and clattering of shields on the outskirts; and this
notable display of _venerie_ being concluded without any good result,
the cavalcade wended its way homeward.
Mounting on the left side, with the assistance of his spear, the Amhara,
when in the saddle, does not by any means ride well. Frequent falls are
precluded by the high bulwarks of wood and leather which fortify his
position; but his seat is awkward and ungainly: and few cavaliers can be
said to possess the noble science of equitation. Whilst violently
kicking with the naked shanks, and retaining the stirrup in the grasp of
the great toe, they tug violently at the cruel and barbarous bit to urge
the horse to speed; and the blood is presently to be seen streaming from
the mouth, as the tortured animal tosses its head in agony.
The bridle is especially powerful and severe; long cheeks being attached
to an indented bit, whilst a solid iron ring embraces the lower jaw, and
acts like a tightened curb. The saddle is of Tartar form, and consists
of two light splinters, which leave a clear space for the spine, and
connect a high wooden pommel for the suspension of the shield, with a
cantle equally high. Firmly sewn together with wet thongs, the tree is
padded, covered with a loose skin, and furnished with stirrup-rings,
just sufficiently capacious to embrace the first toe of the shoeless
equestrian.
The Abyssinian horse would in England be considered under-sized, and
deficient in make and bone; but the breed is hardy, enduring, and
sure-footed, and, from its cheapness, might with advantage be exported
to our Indian possessions. Colts reared among the Galla are deservedly
held superior, the reckless character of the wild pagan rider impelling
them over the most difficult ground, and thus imparting a degree of
boldness and confidence which is rarely to be found in the Amhara steed.
In Shoa the absence of roads precludes the use of wheeled carriages;
and established custom forbidding the employment of the team in
agriculture, the gelding is reserved exclusively for the saddle, whilst
mares and stallions are very rarely ridden. The art of shoeing is
unknown, and no attention is paid to the care of the hoof, which, being
extremely hard, for a time bids defiance to the stony ground; but many
of our hunters were already beginning to suffer from the want of a
farrier.
The horse is by all considered a very inferior animal to the mule, whose
soft agreeable pace accords much better with the general indolent habits
of the Abyssinian, and whose patience and surety of foot among the steep
rocky mountains are sufficiently appreciated. The prices given are
consequently larger, and the care taken of the latter is proportionably
greater. Whilst the steed, scantily supplied with old straw, runs in
the pasture during every season of the year, the mule, on the failure of
the herbage, is pampered on barley and on the best of teff fodder, and,
sheltered from the cold bleak wind, remains a constant inmate of the
master's dwelling, on terms of close intimacy with the family.
Twenty-five or thirty miles within the day are rarely exceeded--the high
hills to be ascended, and the deep rugged valleys to be traversed,
rendering a longer stage almost impracticable. The usual pace of the
sure-footed mule is three miles an hour, but when the road is level, the
amble is increased to five, and the pedestrians of the party still
continue to retain their place. A saddled steed is led in the train;
and, excepting in the hereditary dominions of Shoa, the traveller is
fain to keep a good look-out for the roving Galla, and to do battle on
the moment, if occasion requires.
On again reaching the gorge of the Fotah river, the governor, surrounded
by the most puissant of his chivalry, and preceded by a band of bold
spearmen, each decorated with some flaunting trophy of the chase,
advanced with a measured war-dance, and a martial chorus. These
triumphant strains were continued with little intermission during the
whole of the steep ascent, in spite of the intense heat of the sun,
which shot forth with greater fervour than ever. Dense clouds of dust
and sand, such as might be raised by a charge of ten thousand cavalry,
whirled up towards the sultry sky from the scene of recent exploits; and
the Amhara, already fanned by the cooler breeze of the highlands, looked
down upon the execrated plain with joy at their deliverance from its
burning atmosphere. From each hamlet along the route the inhabitants
sallied forth with shrill acclamations to greet our return. The entire
female population of Dummakoo, receiving the white strangers near the
church dedicated to the tutelar saint of England, led the way with
kettle-drums and shouts of welcome; and for many hours after arrival
within the dark walls of the king's granary, every quarter of the
village resounded with choral music.
A visit of congratulation was immediately paid to us by a diminutive
gentleman, who boasted descent in a direct line from the celebrated
Graan, and whose more immediate ancestors possessed the vice-gerency of
the greater part of the country just visited. Ali Qui occupied a farm
in the vicinity of Dummakoo, and he was accompanied by his tall, fair,
dark-eyed daughter, clothed in crimson, and loaded with amulets and
amber necklaces. Possessing the Abyssinian accomplishment of begging in
the very highest perfection, the worthy Moslem presented ajar of milk,
and requested the loan of a few hundred dollars to pay for his estate,
whilst the coquettish damsel brought a loaf of bread, and exerted her
powers of eloquence to bring about an application to the throne for the
restoration of her parent to his hereditary dignities. She was known by
the eccentric appellation of _Amesa Karetse_, or "fifty crowns"--a title
bestowed in commemoration of a fine to that amount levied on the day of
her nativity upon Ali Qui, as a punishment for the escape of a state
prisoner consigned to his custody.
The easy and ingenious mode of extortion by _mamalacha_ exists in full
force throughout the land, and all are equally amenable both to its
abuses and to its privileges. Bringing any article within his means, no
matter what, the begging petitioner hands it over to his superior as a
memento for any thing that he has the assurance to demand. Servants
offer a stick or a bundle of grass, and ask for swords, clothes, and
money; whilst chiefs and the highest officers of state, present to the
throne a pot of butter or a cloth, and seek to receive in return a
horse, or a mule, or an embroidered garment. If the _mamalacha_ be
received, the case is hopeless; and indeed the custom of the country
requires that the extortioner should be never met with a negative.
Thus, on the occasion of loss by fire or other casualty, the sufferer
makes the round of his acquaintance, who each contribute a mite to the
subscription; and wonderful licence being given to imposture, the
individual upon whom fortune has laid a heavy hand, soon waxes more
wealthy than before.
No petitioner ever enters the presence of his superior unless furnished
with an offering according to his worldly means, as a bribe to secure
favour and good-will. Cattle and honey, cloth, wood, and even stones,
are presented; and this system is invariably observed in all quarrels
and dissensions, where either party desires reconciliation. Without the
intervention of a mediator, this cannot be effected. A third individual
is therefore sought, who will undertake the arrangement, and to his
hands the affair is consigned. The king himself often accepts the
office, and of course is very rarely unsuccessful. Inferiors come into
the presence of their official master with large stones upon their
heads; and, prostrating themselves upon the earth, seek forgiveness of
their offences, which, at the intercession of the all-powerful mediator,
is seldom withheld. The oath by His Majesty's life is the most potent
in use. If adjured by the death of Sahela Selassie, non-compliance can
be visited by punishment; and the wilful breach of the solemn obligation
renders the perjured party liable to penalties the most severe.
From the highest to the lowest, all classes are most pertinacious
beggars. Whatsoever is seen is surely demanded,--guns, knives,
scissors, beads, cloth, mirrors, and dollars. The love of acquiring
property stifles every sense of shame; and no compunction is felt in
asking for the cloak from off the stranger's back. The Amhara even take
a pride in this national failing, and boast that the child, before
coming into the world, will stretch forth its hand to receive a gift;
whilst tradition extols as highly praiseworthy and deserving of
imitation the conduct of a certain great Abyssinian chief, who on his
death-bed desired that his body might be interred in the track of a
caravan, in order that, if possible, his spirit might be in the way of
receiving a dole from the passing merchant!
Volume 3, Chapter XXIX.