As the month rolled on, under a cold and pleasant sky, the governors of
the adjacent districts flocked with their quotas to Debra Berhan, to be
in readiness against the approaching anniversary of "Maskal." On this
festival, which is held in commemoration of the discovery of the Holy
Cross by Saint Helena, the rabble militia composing the Amhara forces is
marshalled in order of review, and the grassy slope in front of the
palace became daily more and more thickly dotted with black booths and
mules and neighing steeds. Honours, appointments, and rewards, are now
conferred upon the brave and the deserving; and this being also the
season of retribution, the forfeited property and the household chattels
of delinquent officers add to the fair-like confusion. Herds of cattle,
and long files of confiscated slaves, wooden tables, rickety bedsteads,
and other paltry prizes of royal seizure, crowded the bustling parade;
whilst groups of shivering camels, transferred by writ of execution to
an uncongenial clime, took up their cold station on the bare ground,
which was in a few days to receive their long scraggy bones.
On the eve of the anxiously expected day of jubilee, the din of the
_nugareet_, followed by the repeated discharge of heavily-loaded
matchlocks, proclaimed the movement of the household troops towards the
palace portals, in order to guard the imperial person from any sudden
outbreak of the wild host encamped in the environs. Halting in front of
the tents of the Embassy, they performed the war-dance in our honour by
the light of numerous torches. Whilst the leaders solaced themselves
with a cup of our curacoa, their curvetting chargers, ridden by
confidential henchmen, bore gallantly among the dense mass; and the
bright metal stars and studs of their appointments gleamed amid the dark
ranks of the warriors, as they howled the Amhara death chorus. Bidding
us good night, the Master of the Horse declared, amongst the affirmative
whoops of his followers, that next to the royal safety, the lives of his
much-esteemed foreign friends should be uppermost in his thoughts during
the coming vigil.
Most unkingly was the appearance presented by the palace at break of
day, for all was disorder and confusion among the court. Dirt and filth
reigned paramount in every purlieu--mire to the ankle obstructed every
gateway--and the rods of the wearied door-keepers were broken to
splinters in their laudable endeavours to check the rush of the eager
and greasy mob. The very houses themselves seemed more gloomy, and the
time-worn mud plaster of the ancient walls more sombre and dilapidated
than usual.
The despot was for some hours to be seen squatted in the porch of the
banqueting hall, surrounded by all the concomitant litter of a forge,
which, puffing away at the foot of his _alga_, under the personal
supervision of the chief smith, blew a cloud of dust and ashes into the
royal nostrils. Decorum seemed to be laid aside for the day.
Chattering and noise resounded in every quarter. Restraint was removed
from the tongues of all, and the uplifted voice of the monarch was at
times scarcely audible, amid the clatter of surrounding courtiers, and
the ringing of the crow upon the anvil.
Twenty sallow eunuchs, acting each at one and the same time as master of
the ceremonies, introduced to the royal notice the crowds of lieges,
who, arrayed in most filthy garbs, came crushing together to the front.
Priests, and monks, and petty governors, women, slaves, and cultivators,
bore each some present to swell the imperial stores. Honey, butter, and
beads, sticks, crutches, and censers, were alike received with
complimentary speeches, saving in the instance of one burly knave, who
had presumed to come before the king with a poor bundle of grass. Of
him no notice whatever was taken. The very crowd seemed ashamed of so
scurvy an offering, and an opening being spontaneously made, a few kicks
and shoves sent the ill-provided vassal speedily out of sight,
unrewarded by the customary "God give thee more!" from the lips of his
puissant sovereign.
But a very different scene presented itself when, at a later hour, we
were ushered through the grassy lawn to make our bows to His Majesty.
Surrounded by the grandees of the court, in their holiday attire, the
generals of the cavalry and body-guard, the household officers, and the
alakas and high-priests of all the principal churches, he reclined on a
moveable throne, tricked out for the occasion in velvet and satin. Rich
_kimkhabs_, gay silken vests, and a profusion of silver swords and
decorations for gallant conduct, sparkled on the persons of the
courtiers; and the turmoil attending the early hours of business had
given place to the unbending gravity of Abyssinian etiquette.
The artillery escort having, greatly to the admiration of the
bystanders, gone through the manual and platoon exercises with blank
cartridge, three hundred _Aferoch_, under the command of the
purveyor-general, entered the arena, elevating high above their heads
bundles of peeled wands, bound together with wisps of rushes, and decked
with garlands of the yellow "cross-flower." The wild song of rejoicing
at the return of spring, and of the season of blossoms, "when the fleas
retire and the flies appear," had been heard a considerable time, waxing
louder and louder, as these lictors, with their fasces, approached the
scene of exhibition. Shouting the war-chorus, they now moved forward
with a mincing gait, and after the most abject prostration to the earth,
with a yell, hurling their rods in a heap before the palace steps, the
whole crouched in a semicircle. Their leader and his stewards, some on
horseback, others on foot, clothed in the spoils of wild beasts, then
displayed themselves individually in the dance, galloping or vaulting
between the open ranks, encouraging the men to fight, and demean
themselves as warriors in the day of battle--each ending his recitative
by a terrific howl, in which he was joined by the whole band.
This exhibition terminated, we were marshalled to a gay Turkish
pavilion, which had been purposely erected, below the royal inspection
tower. A small, roofed building, resembling the judge's stand on a
country race-course, occupies a raised platform immediately within the
palace enclosure. Gaudy cloth hangings enveloped this cage, and carpets
and rugs of all colours covered the top of the rude wall for some
distance on either side. The Negoos was already seated when we cantered
past, and taking off our hats, received his condescending salutation.
The usual paraphernalia of silver-embossed velvet floated at his feet.
The chiefs of the churches, and the civil officers of state--a gorgeous
band--were arranged along the platform, whilst a motley crowd of many
thousand spectators stood closely packed over the plain below.
Dense masses of cavalry were in readiness at the further extremity of
the parade, to perform the pageant of the day. At the distance of one
hundred yards from the imperial stand, a stack of tall leafless willow
staves had been erected on the bright green turf which extended far and
wide in front. Around it were squatted files of warriors, ensconced
under their round shields like the tortoise beneath his shell--the
management of sundry huge culverins, of inordinate dimensions, being
divided betwixt every three. The muzzle rested over the shoulder of
one, a second worked the butt, and a third was prepared, with blazing
brand, to fire on the signal given.
The review commenced by the advance of Ayto Katama's body-guard,
consisting entirely of fusiliers, three-fourths of whom were on this
occasion equipped with the muskets that I had recently presented.
Divided into four bodies, consisting each of about one hundred men, they
moved slowly forward, shouting the usual war-chorus, in imitation of the
voice of the lion, and were kept in line by the vigorous application of
the rattan. Numerous bracelets, the reward of distinguished gallantry,
glittered throughout the band, and the fixed bayonets, heretofore
unknown in Southern Abyssinia, gleamed brightly in the sunshine.
Gaining the prescribed distance, the warriors crouched on the ground as
if to receive cavalry. A grey-headed but energetic veteran sprang to
the front--danced during some time in a variety of uncouth capers--and
uttering a howl such as might be conjectured to issue from the demon in
the wolfs glen, discharged his piece. The signal was followed by a
running fire along the entire line, when the remaining companies,
advancing in succession in the same order, went through similar
evolutions, and all marched off dancing and singing to the outer ring.
The commander-in-chief of this doughty band had meanwhile formed a
conspicuous, although rather a ludicrous figure in the performance.
Adorned with a flowing garment of his favourite chintz, the flaring
pattern of which the kaleidoscope itself must have found difficulty in
devising, Ayto Katama, a bondsman from his youth, exhibited himself in
front of the phalanx of slaves, his head enveloped in a crimson
harlequin cap. Tripping and mincing with the most unseemly capers and
gestures, he brandished his crooked blade in a fashion which could alone
have proved dangerous to himself. An inveterate chronic sore throat had
rendered his voice husky; and his vapouring unmilitary motions, which
reminded us of the strut of a crippled peacock, shed a broad light of
caricature over this opening scene of the pantomime.
But the king's Master of the Horse next advanced with his glittering
squadron of picked household cavalry--the flower of the Christian
lances. Ayto Melkoo was arrayed in a parti-coloured vest, surmounted by
a crimson Arab fleece, handsomely studded with silver jets. A gilt
embossed gauntlet encircled his right arm from the wrist to the elbow.
His targe and horse-trapping displayed a profusion of silver crosses and
devices, and he looked a stately and martial warrior, curvetting at the
head of his troop of well-appointed lancers.
Forming line at the distance of half a mile, and approaching the willow
pile with a musical accompaniment from a mounted band of kettle-drums,
the squadron halted, and the leader, couching his lance, advanced in
front. Whilst putting his charger through all the evolutions of
Abyssinian _manege_, he vaunted his prowess in arms, recited the
prodigies of valour performed in the service of his royal master, and
proclaimed his continued good faith, and future bold intentions--his
followers, at intervals, like the Romans of old, responding their assent
by the loud clatter of lance against shield. The harangue concluded,
his spears were dashed upon the ground, and the chieftain, drawing his
broad two-edged falchion, brandished it in the air: "_Tockatoo, Loola,
Loola, Gummoo, Sik, Oooooh_," he vociferated, as he dashed his heels
into the flanks of his prancing steed. An instantaneous howl, and
independent discharge of culverins, answered the signal, and the wild
troop swept past at a gallop to the further extremity of the parade.
At the royal request, I caused a salute of twenty-one guns to be fired
by the artillery escort, from the brass three-pounder, which had been
dragged by oxen below the willow-stack. Great was the admiration of the
wild Galla multitude as they gazed on the appointments and embroidered
housings of the British officers now assembled on horseback in front of
the watch-tower; and sufficiently diverting were the remarks they passed
on our fluttering plumes of white and red feathers--their own emblems of
bloody though not chivalrous deeds. When the cannonade opened upon ears
that had never before listened to the thunder of ordnance, and a cloud
of white smoke curled high above the heads of those who had hitherto
beheld such volumes arise only from their own burning hamlets, a buzz of
applause pealed from end to end of the extended fine. Each echoing
report carried to the hearts of the disaffected a powerful argument for
future loyalty, and it needed little discrimination to unravel the royal
policy which had dictated the display.
Thirteen governors, clothed in spoils stripped from the lion and the
leopard, with other conspicuous trophies of the chase, next passed
successively in order of review. Decked in emblems of blood--rings,
feathers, bracelets, and gauntlets--tokens all of individual prowess in
hand to hand combat with the king's foes--the leader of each glittering
cohort indulged in a long rambling harangue, ere shouting the signal for
the charge. Many there were who wore the _akodama_--a massive
transverse beam of silver projecting across the brows, and hung with a
profusion of chains and pendants, the reward for the slaughter of an
Adel, several of which respectable body, including the Ras el Kafilah
and his fiery coadjutor, Ibrahim Shehem, were spectators of the martial
manoeuvres of the Amhara troops.
An interesting, though perhaps not a very military sight, was witnessed
as the hours drew on. The famished governors, judges, chiefs, nobles,
courtiers, and dignitaries of the church, who occupied the elevated
platform on either side of the royal box, unable longer to resist the
calls of hunger, were suddenly to be perceived in the act of employing
their crooked swords in reducing the dimensions of several sides and
flaps of raw beef, which had been furnished by the king's munificence,
and were ostentatiously displayed by as many menials--nor, under the
well-directed and vigorous attacks of the assembly, were the reeking
collops long in disappearing.
A few only of the detachments, whose leaders were not gifted with
eloquence, charged past without a halt from the ground on which they had
formed; and it is not improbable that these, having made the circuit of
the palace enclosure, had swelled the pageant by appearing a second time
on the stage. Others, dismounting, performed various evolutions on
foot--ancient heroes, with falchions of truly portentous dimensions,
capering and striding before the line, until on a signal made by the
culverins, they vaulted again into the saddles, and dashed onward over
the green-sward, now fast fading under the tramp of hoofs.
Last of all came the tall martial figure of Abogaz Maretch, chief of all
the tributary Galla in the south, at the head of his Abitchu legion, who
closed the display of barbarian tactics. Three thousand in number, the
sea of wild horsemen moved in advance to the music of the kettledrums,
their arms and decorations flashing in the sun-beam, and their ample
white robes and long braided hair streaming to the breeze. At the
shrill whoop of their leader, with the rushing sound of a hurricane, the
cohort clattered past the royal stand, and the moving forest of lances
disappeared under a cloud of dust.
From eight to ten thousand cavalry were present in the field, and the
spectacle, which lasted from nine in the morning until five in the
afternoon, was exceedingly wild and impressive. Did the warriors who
this day recounted their valorous achievements before the monarch only
possess hearts of a measure with their good weapons and strong seats,
they could not fail to prove the means of extensive power and conquest
under the control of an aspiring chief; but such unfortunately is not
the case, and the speed of their stout hardy steeds is too frequently
exerted in the wrong direction.
As soon as it became dark, several rockets which we had brought with us
were discharged from our tents by the king's express desire. With
fire-arms the Abyssinians were previously acquainted, and the brass
galloper which had echoed so recently, although viewed with wonderful
respect, was still only the engine on a colossal scale, to which they
were familiarised. But these were the first rockets of which His
Majesty had viewed the flight, and the impression they produced upon his
mind, as he gazed from his watch-tower, was scarcely less than that
worked upon his assembled subjects. Night had thrown her mantle around,
and the novel principle of ascent, with the grandeur of the brilliant
rush into the skies, afforded matter of amazement to all spectators.
When the projectile started with a loud roar from its bed, men, women,
and children, fell flat upon their faces. Horses and mules broke loose
from their tethers, and the warrior who had any heart remaining shouted
aloud. The Galla tribes who witnessed the meteor-like explosion from
the vicinity, ascribed the phenomenon to the use of potent medicines,
and declared that since the Gyptzis could at pleasure produce comets in
the sky, and rain fire from heaven, there was nought for them left, save
abject submission to the king's commands.
The ceremony of burning the stack of willow staves on the parade
commenced shortly after this exhibition, and, superintended by His
Majesty in person, terminated the proceedings of the busy day. Shrouded
from the gaze of the populace, the ladies of the royal harem danced and
clapped their hands together, as their white ghostlike figures moved in
circling procession around the pile so shortly to be committed to the
flames. Then followed a rush of torch-bearers from various quarters,
mingled with the corps of Aferoch, and all reeling under the effects of
strong old hydromel. Three hundred flower-decked fasces, displayed
bright and fresh in the morning, but now withered and faded, were with
savage shouts and yells cast simultaneously on the pyre, and a burst of
lurid glare, which revealed all that was passing, at once proclaimed
their ignition. Thousands crowding to the spot added their tribute, and
joined in the din of voices. Black crosses to repel the devil were by
many described on their foreheads with the charred wood, in the struggle
to obtain which hard blows were dealt lustily about, and some of the
competitors were even forced into the pile. The legend asserts, that on
the discovery of the Holy Cross by the mother of Constantine the Great,
she caused beacon fires to be lighted on all the high hills of
Palestine, upon beholding which a general shout of joy was raised by the
people of Constantinople. In imitation hereof, wild songs and yells of
triumph from the inebriated Christians of Shoa, now completed the
turmoil and confusion, and with the crackling red flames that curled up
the tall dry staves, ascended high towards the starry vault of heaven in
honour of Saint Helena.
Volume Two, Chapter XI.