It rained incessantly with the greatest violence throughout the entire
night, and until the morning broke, when a great volume of white scud,
rising from the deep valleys, and drifting like a scene-curtain across
the stern summit of the giant Mamrat--now frowning immediately
overhead--foretold the nature of the weather that might be anticipated
during the important and long-looked-for day. The baggage having with
considerable difficulty been collected from the various nooks and comers
wherein the porters had deposited their loads, and no prospect of a
brighter sky being in store, the circumjacent morasses were waded to the
face of the hill which obscured Machal-wans. Too steep and slippery for
mules, this was also ascended on foot, with the aid of long staves; and
the rain, which had been dropping gently for some time, again setting-in
with the most malicious steadiness, as if resolved to mar all attempt at
display, the whole cavalcade was presently drenched to the skin.
An hour's toil over very heavy ground opened a sudden turn in the road,
whence the escort, resting their cumbrous matchlocks over the rocks,
commenced an indiscriminate fire--the reports of their heavily-loaded
culverins, mingled with the answering note of welcome from the expectant
crowd below, echoing long and loud among the broken glens. As the
clouds of smoke floated slowly away on the dense atmosphere from the
shoulder of the mountain, there burst upon the sight a lovely view of
the stockaded palace at Machal-wans. Its conical white roofs were
embosomed in a fair grove of juniper and cypress, which crested a
beautifully wooded tumulus rising at the extreme verge of the valley
from the very banks of a roaring torrent. A bright green meadow,
spangled with flowers, lay stretched at its foot: the rose, the
eglantine, and the humble violet, grew around in all the grace of native
wildness, to recall recollections of happier lands, whilst the great
Abyssinian range, which even here towered almost perpendicularly some
two thousand feet overhead, and whose peaks were veiled in wreaths of
white fog, formed a magnificent background to the picture. Isolated
farm-houses were profusely scattered over the verdant landscape--rich
fields glistened in various stages of maturity--and the rills, swollen
by the recent storm, came thundering over the mountain side, in a
succession of foaming cascades.
Another hour's wading through deep ploughed fields of beans and peas and
standing corn, and across the rapid torrent brawling over a rocky bed,
brought the draggled party to two time-worn awnings of black serge,
which not five minutes before had been pitched for its accommodation in
a swamp below the royal residence, and which admitted the rain through
an infinity of apertures. This continued up to the last moment, thick
and heavy; but the utmost efforts of the deluge had proven insufficient
to cleanse the mud-stained garments; and now the tramp of six hundred
porters, in addition to the vast crowd which had assembled to witness
the long-looked-for arrival of the British Embassy, soon converting the
ground into a positive quagmire, ankle-deep in black mud, seemed to
render utterly hopeless any attempt at the exhibition of broad-cloth and
gold lace on the approaching presentation at the Court of Shoa.
The governors of Ankober and Alio Amba, whose special affair it was to
provide food, and otherwise to render assistance needed, left the
visitors to pitch their own tent, whilst they lounged in the palls, and
contented themselves with urging the instant gratification of the royal
curiosity, which was momentarily becoming more and more intense.
Persecution on the part of the unruly and boisterous mob, to whom every
object was new, meanwhile waxed greater and greater--thousands pressing
forward to gaze as at wild beasts, and all contributing their mite to
promote confusion and discomfort, now at the climax. Sally after sally
was made by the uproused commander-in-chief of the body-guard, and many
were the long sticks broken to small fragments over the backs and
shoulders of the wild spectators in the course of his vigorous
applications. But it was to no purpose. The ring was no sooner formed
than broken, and the self-constituted clerk of the course, becoming at
length weary of his occupation, he joined his idle colleagues in the
tent, and left the multitude to their own devices.
A remonstrance to the King, touching the indignities to which the liege
subjects of Great Britain were thus exposed at the hands of the Amhara
rabble, on the very outskirts of the palace, was followed by a visit
from Birroo, the favourite page, bearing an apologetic message on the
score of ignorance; and repeated messages through this shrewd little
confidant of royalty, who possessed all the airs of a spoiled pet,
elicited first permission to fire a single gun--then five--and lastly,
the desired salute. With his assistance, moreover, the crowd was to a
certain extent repelled, and the spacious tent having finally been
erected, amid peals of savage wonder, the floor was strewed with heather
and with branches lopped from the myrtles and from various aromatic
shrubs that grew thickly around, and preparations were at length
commenced for the interview, which, during the continuance of the tumult
and uproar, had been by a succession of messages repeatedly and
earnestly desired.
It was now noon, and the weather having temporarily cleared, the British
party, radiant with plumes and gold embroidery, succeeded, after much
fruitless opposition, in mounting their gaily-caparisoned steeds, and
escorted by the governors, the commander-in-chief of the body-guard, and
by a numerous and clamorous escort, proceeded in full uniform towards
the palace. Many were the attempts made to enforce the etiquette which
denies ascent in equestrian order; but as, on gaining the foot of the
eminence, the roar of artillery burst from the centre of the encampment,
and the deep valley, filling fast with a cloud of white smoke, began to
echo back the salute at the rate of six discharges in a minute, no
further interference was attempted, and an universal shout arose of
"_Malifia Ungliz, melcom! melcom_!" "Wonderful English, well done! well
done!"
Noise, bustle, and confusion, which in Abyssinia are reckoned highly
honourable to the guest, were again at their climax on reaching the
outer cricket, where the form of obtaining the royal permission to pass
was to be observed ere entrance could be accorded by the state
door-keepers. Further detention was experienced in the court-yard, at
the hands of sundry officers of the privy chamber, whose visages were
but ill-adapted to sustain the character of high official importance,
and whose assumption of dignity proved singularly ludicrous. At length
came a message expressive of His Majesty's unqualified surprise and
satisfaction at the extraordinary celerity with which the guns were
being served, and his desire to see the Embassy forthwith; but
attempting to advance, opposition was again interposed, and it needed
another message, and yet another command, before admission could be
obtained to the royal presence.
The last peal of ordnance was rattling in broken echoes along the
mountain chain, as the British Embassy stepped at length over the high
threshold of the reception hall. Circular in form, and destitute of the
wonted Abyssinian pillar in the centre, the massive and lofty clay walls
of the chamber glittered with a profusion of silver ornaments,
emblazoned shields, matchlocks, and double-barrelled guns. Persian
carpets and rugs of all sizes, colours, and patterns, covered the floor,
and crowds of Alakas, governors, chiefs, and principal officers of the
court, arrayed in their holyday attire, stood around in a posture of
respect, uncovered to the girdle. Two wide alcoves receded on either
side, in one of which blazed a cheerful wood fire, engrossed by indolent
cats, whilst in the other, on a flowered satin ottoman, surrounded by
withered eunuchs and juvenile pages of honour, and supported by gay
velvet cushions, reclined in Ethiopic state His Most Christian Majesty
Sahela Selassie. The _Dech Agafari_, or state door-keeper, as master of
the ceremonies, stood with a rod of green rushes to preserve the exact
distance of approach to royalty, and as the British guests entered the
hall and made their bows to the throne, motioned them to be seated upon
chairs that had previously been sent in--which done, it was commanded
that all might be covered.
The King was attired in a silken Arab vest of green brocade, partially
shrouded under the ample folds of a white cotton robe of Abyssinian
manufacture, adorned with sundry broad crimson stripes and borders.
Forty summers, whereof eight-and-twenty had been passed under the uneasy
cares of the crown, had slightly furrowed his dark brow, and somewhat
grizzled a full bushy head of hair, arranged in elaborate curls after
the fashion of George the First; and although considerably disfigured by
the loss of the left eye, the expression of his manly features, open,
pleasing, and commanding, did not in their _tout ensemble_ belie the
character for impartial justice which the despot has obtained far and
wide--even the Danakil comparing him to "a fine balance of gold."
All those manifold salutations and inquiries which overwrought
politeness here enforces, duly concluded, the letters with which the
Embassy had been charged--enveloped in flowered muslin and rich gold
kimkhab--were presented in a sandal wood casket, minutely inlaid with
ivory; and the contents having been read and expounded, the costly
presents from the British government were introduced in succession, to
be spread out before the glistening eyes of the Court. The rich
Brussels carpet which completely covered the hall, together with
Cachemire shawls and embroidered Delhi scarfs of resplendent hues,
attracted universal attention, and some of the choicest specimens were
from time to time handed to the alcove by the chief of the eunuchs. On
the introduction of each new curiosity, the surprise of the King became
more and more unfeigned. Bursts of merriment followed the magic
revolutions of a group of Chinese dancing figures; and when the European
escort in full uniform, with the sergeant at their head, marched into
the centre of the hall--faced in front of the throne, and performed the
manual and platoon exercises amidst jewellery glittering on the rugs,
gay shawls and silver cloths which strewed the floor, ornamented clocks
chiming, and musical boxes playing "God save the Queen," His Majesty
appeared quite entranced, and declared that he possessed no words to
express his gratitude. But many and bright were the smiles that lighted
up the royal features, as three hundred muskets, with bayonets fixed,
were piled in front of the footstool. A buzz of mingled wonder and
applause, which half drowned the music, arose from the crowded
courtiers; and the measure of the warlike monarch's satisfaction now
filled to overflowing, "God will reward you," he exclaimed, "for I
cannot."
But astonishment and admiration knew no bounds, as the populace next
spread over the face of the hills to witness the artillery practice,
which formed the sequel to the presentation of these princely gifts. A
sheet was attached to the opposite face of the ravine. The green valley
again rung to the unwonted roar of ordnance; and as the white cloth flew
in shreds to the wind, under a rapid discharge of round shot, canister,
and grape, amidst the crumbling of the rock, and the rush of the filling
stones, the before despised sponge staves became a theme of eulogy to
the monarch as well as to the gaping peasant. A shout rose long and
loud over the pealing echoes which rattled from hill to hill; and far
along the serrated chain was proclaimed the arrival of foreign guests,
and the royal acquisition through their means of potent engines of war.
Compliments from the throne, and personal congratulations from the
principal courtiers and officers of state, closed the evening of this
unwonted display; and the introduction, by the hands of the favourite
page, of a huge pepper pie, the produce of the royal kitchen, with a
command that "the King's children might feast," was accompanied by the
unheard-of honour of a visit from the dwarf father confessor, who might
without difficulty have concealed his most diminutive person beneath the
ample pastry. Enveloped in robes and turbans, and armed with silver
cross and crosier, the deformed little priest, whose entire long life
has been passed in doing good to his fellow-creatures, seating his
hideous and Punch-like form in a chair placed for its reception, in
squeaking accents delivered himself thus:--
"Forty years have rolled away since Asfa Woosen, on whose memory be
peace, grandsire to our beloved monarch, saw in a dream that the red men
were bringing into his kingdom curious and beautiful commodities from
countries beyond the great sea. The astrologers, on being commanded to
give an interpretation thereof, predicted with one accord that
foreigners from the land of Egypt would come into Abyssinia during His
Majesty's most illustrious reign, and that yet more and wealthier would
follow in that of his son, and of his son's son, who should sit next
upon the throne. Praise be unto God that the dream and its
interpretation have now been fulfilled! Our eyes, though they be old,
have never beheld wonders until this day, and during the reign over Shoa
of seven successive kings, no such miracles as these have been wrought
in Ethiopia."
Volume One, Chapter XLVI.
Appendix, Number I.
By the passage of the polar star over the meridian, the magnetic
variation at Ankober was observed, with the aid of a well-regulated
chronometer, to be 7 degrees westerly.
The longitude was determined both by a series of lunars, and by the
eclipses of Jupiter's satellites, the mean of upwards of 150
observations having been taken.
Appendix, Number II.
Remarks on the Natural History of that Portion of the Adel Country
Situated along the Route from the Sea-Coast to the Frontier of Efat.