The Arab chieftain of the Foudthli, of whom flying parties still infest
the deserts of Aden, is renowned for the possession of two thumbs upon
the dexter hand--a proud distinction by which his ancestors have been
recognised from time immemorial. Sheikh Oomer Buttoo ibn Ali, akil of
the Tukhaiel, who occupy the country from the oasis of Yoor Erain Maroo
to Hao, a few miles eastward of the Hawash, glories in the loss of the
sinister eye; and he is reputed to have forfeited it by an hereditary
visitation, which through every generation has disfigured his ancestors
in like manner--no single head of the illustrious line having been known
to possess two eyes! This venerable Polyphemus visited the camp after
dark, attended by his hopeful son and heir, who has already qualified
for the succession; and after receiving each a piece of blue calico in
the clandestine manner which these savages prefer to a more orthodox
public presentation, they slunk away, well satisfied with their booty.
A group of slatternly females belonging to the Ittoo Galla had sauntered
carelessly into camp with ox-hides for sale, and tobacco, the produce of
their own high lulls; and their abrupt departure as the evening shades
drew on, had led to suspicions anent the object of their visit. At the
going down of the sun therefore a caution was promulgated by the Ras,
enjoining a vigilant look out for Galla and wild beasts; and his
earnestness might almost have led to the anticipation of a rush of wild
equestrians through the encampment, or a charge of hungry lions from the
adjacent gloomy thicket, before the termination of the first watch. But
the cry of "wolf!" had been too often dinned into every ear; and
although both elders and escort had sworn that this night at least
should be one of wakefulness, no surprise was elicited by the
disappearance of their bushy heads, one after the other, beneath the
mats--an example which was speedily followed by all the Europeans off
duty, as the rain began again to tumble in torrents,
"Et veterem in limo ranae cecinere querelam."
The fear of attracting the "Buddoo," as the much-dreaded marauders of
every class were generically designated, still invariably brought an
order which there was no gainsaying, to strike and pack the tent before
sunset, however threatening the aspect of the weather. But the
despotism of the Ras was light in comparison with the tyranny exercised
by his unaccommodating train. At whatever hour of the night the
arbitrary mandate to load might be promulgated, it was required that the
bedding of the whole party should forthwith be delivered at the quarters
of the arrogant driver to whom it pertained, since he declined making
his camel walk to the spot. Moreover the delay of a few minutes was
sufficient to condemn it to be left on the ground, notwithstanding that
preparations often occupied two hours, which might as well have been
devoted to rest; and this wanton curtailment of sleep was doubly felt
after the heavy nocturnal duty that devolved upon all.
The route on the 9th led across the flat of Halik-diggi Kabir, a
continuation of the Moolu plain, extending from the Azboti and Ittoo
ranges to the mountains Aiulloo and Abida. Twelve miles in breadth, it
presents one monotonous alluvial level, treeless, but thickly covered
with grass, interspersed with dwarf shrubs, and enlivened by herds of
the elegant _mhorr_, amongst which the secretary bird occasionally
strutted in native dignity. Baezas and zebras, too, were descried on
the hills which bound the flat; and a luckless leopard being detected in
the act of stealing across the expanse, the savage group pursued like
demons from every quarter, and having presently hooted and hunted the
terrified animal into a bush, transfixed his carcass incontinently with
thirty spears.
The whole landscape was alive during this animated scene, which scarcely
occupied a minute; and in due process of time the panting warriors
rejoined the caravan, their necks, spears, and shields adorned with
strips of the victim's tail, whilst he who by dint of superior wind and
fleetness had drawn the first blood, was by his comrades publicly
invested with the spotted spoils that he had won. The appearance of the
party on their return, accompanied by a stray horseman who had
fortuitously joined in the chase, gave birth in the bosom of the Ras to
an apprehension that the Ittoo Galla were descending upon the caravan.
The ranks were accordingly closed, and the Europeans again took post on
the flank to be assailed, until a nearer approach revealed in the savage
band the features of friends.
A descent of thirty feet over a narrow tongue of land, led into the
valley of Halik-diggi Zughir, styled by the Adaiel the Great Hawash--its
breadth being about two and a half miles, and the bed a perfect level,
covered with fine grass, on which grazed a troop of wild asses. Bounded
throughout the serpentine progress by parallel banks of corresponding
height and appearance, the hollow would seem to extend from the
mountains of the Ittoo Galla north to the Aiulloo volcano. It wears the
aspect of having been once the channel of a considerable stream--that of
the Hawash perhaps, which river may not improbably have been diverted
into its present course at the period when the extensive volcanic tract
around Mount Abida was in a state of activity, and when subterranean
influence must have caused extraordinary revolutions in the entire
aspect of the country.
Here occurred the last specimen seen of the Kurbeta, the myrrh-bearing
tree [Balsamodendron Myrrha], of which two varieties are found
abundantly over all the barren hill-sides, from the Doomi valley to the
borders of the Hawash. That producing the better description of the gum
resin, is a dwarf shrub, with deeply serrated crisp leaves of a dull
green; whereas the other, yielding a substance more like balm than
myrrh, attains a height of ten feet, and has bright shining leaves.
From any bruise or incision inflicted, the "_hofali_" flows copiously in
the form of a milky juice, possessing a perceptible acidity, which
either evaporates or becomes chemically changed when the gum forms.
Left ungathered, it becomes hard with the loss of the volatile oil, and
thus crumbles away; but if the wound be cleared frequently, a very large
quantity may be collected during the seasons, which occur in January
when the buds appear after the first rain, and again when the seeds are
ripe, in March.
Three ounces of the finest myrrh and one of dross, may thus be obtained
during the year, and the secreting vessels lying immediately under the
epidermis, a very slight bend in a branch makes it flow freely. The
wandering shepherds either tear off one of the lower limbs, or so bruise
the stem with a heavy stone as to retard the growth of the tree; but
every new sprout is spontaneously covered with gum, although in a
somewhat more fluid state. Repeated injuries in the same spot lead to
the formation of an ever-filling cavity, and
"The mirrhe sweete bleeding in the bitter wounde,"
is transferred by each passer-by to the hollow boss of his shield, to be
exchanged for a handful of tobacco with the next slave-dealer met on the
caravan road. But the Danakil are not altogether ignorant of the
virtues of the drug, and invariably recommended it for those of the
horses that were unable to proceed from heat and exhaustion.
It has been seen that from Yoor Erain Maroo, an accession to the escort
was received in the person of the hopeful son of Datah Mohammad,
co-chief of the Sidi Habroo. This insatiable vagabond, a worthy scion
of his stock, had received from the hand of Nature an aspect that could
only have belonged to a finished cut-throat. Deeply scarred with the
small-pox, his bloated half-shaven muzzle peered through a tangled web
of grease-clotted hair, like a drowsy owl out of an ivy bush. He
presented a truly striking picture of man in the natural state.
Although never without a new quid in his mouth, and another half
masticated behind either ear, he passed hours of each day in importuning
for more "_timboo_" of which he was the most passionate admirer; and it
was his undeviating rule never to pass a white face without repeating in
an authoritative tone the trisyllable "_Irreboot_" in token of his
determination to add still farther to his stock in hand of yam-needles,
which already outnumbered the quills of the porcupine.
Firmly persuaded that every mule with the party had been purchased for
his especial riding, and equally convinced that his presence was
indispensable to the general safety, he appropriated the very first that
came within his reach, changing it as often as he thought proper, and
never leaving it without a galled back. If not a professor of
equitation, he was at all events devoted to the science, and it was with
a fiendish scowl indeed that while crossing Halik-diggi Zughir he
received an order to dismount from a steed which he had selected out of
the drove for the purpose of riding down an oryx. "_Tuwwaddee_!"
"attend," he mumbled sulkily as he thrust away the animal with the butt
of his spear,--"_Tuwwaddee_! I am a great man's son, and have no
intention of walking. If I am not to have a horse, you may even settle
as best you can with my father's Bedouins."
Mules, horses, and camels, in considerable numbers, were abandoned
before the termination of this tedious and sultry march--fatigue, want
of water, and lack of forage, having reduced all to such positive
skeletons that they walked with difficulty. Ascending three successive
terraces, each of fifty feet elevation, the road finally wound into the
confined and waterless valley of Hao, famous for the number of parties
that have at various times been surprised and cut up by the neighbouring
Galla--
"For, with hot rapine fir'd, ensuiguin'd man
Is here become the lion of the plain,
And worse."
Not a month had elapsed since three ill-starred individuals of a Tajura
caravan, impatient to satisfy burning thirst, hurrying in advance of the
main body, were cut off by a band of Galla horsemen, who had lain
concealed behind the rocks immediately above the present encamping
ground, and who, after mutilating the bodies, bore off their barbarous
trophies in triumph. The dale hard by had only two nights previously to
the arrival of the present party, formed the scene of a skirmish between
the Ittoo and the inhabitants of the plain, when the bodies of twenty of
the former and nine of the latter were left to the vultures and hyaenas.
Every hill and valley in this direction could, in fact, tell its
individual tale of bloodshed and slaughter. The wild barbarians keep a
constant look out to pounce upon any wanderers weaker than themselves,
and few are the natives to be seen who bear not on their persons some
indelible mark of hand to hand combat.
Fatigued by the long march, the Danakil were all fast asleep within
their temporary sheds, a few of the drivers excepted, who tended their
browsing camels among the adjacent thorns. In an instant the whole
valley rang with the cry to assemble at arms, and inconceivable was the
confusion that ensued. Many of the escort, only half awake, in rushing
forth overthrew portions of their dens upon others who were still
inside. Warrior clashed against warrior, shield against shield. The
rocky hill-side was presently a living mass of half-clad savages,
panting up the steep acclivity, when a few Galla scouts, whose sudden
appearance on the plain had caused the alarm, were perceived mounting
their steeds; and, understanding themselves to be the objects of these
warlike preparations, they precipitately sped their way.
From the summit of the height was obtained an exhilarating prospect over
the dark lone valley of the long-looked-for Hawash. The course of the
shining river was marked by a dense belt of trees and verdure, which
stretches towards the base of the great mountain range, whereof the
cloud-capped cone that frowns over the capital of Shoa forms the most
conspicuous feature. Although still far distant, the ultimate
destination of the Embassy seemed almost to have been gained; and none
had an idea of the length of time that must elapse ere his foot should
press the soil of Ankober. A day of intense heat was as usual followed
by a heavy fall of rain, which, owing to the unaccommodating arrangement
again peremptorily exacted, of striking the tent at sunset, thoroughly
drenched the whole party; but before finally drawing the mat over his
sleepy head, the Ras el Kafilah mounted a cone which stood in the centre
of the compact circle, and proclaimed in a loud voice to all, a night of
light sleep and watchfulness.
Volume One, Chapter XXXIV.