Grant to Col. Sadrick to take the Blackstone and go to New Orleans
and get her repaired, and get coal and oil. Nothing but the staff
officers were allowed to go along. This caused some dissatisfaction,
but they had to submit. The 29th was landed at Fort Phillips, and on
Saturday the 30th inst. with Col. W.B. Wooster of the 29th, Lieut.
Col. Torance, Adjutant Spalding and lady, Lieut. Leonard and lady,
Capt. Griswell and lady, Lieut. M.D. Lee, and a few more of the 29th
officers, we proceeded up the Mississippi towards New Orleans. There
were but three colored men allowed to go; these belonged to Colonel
Sadrick's headquarters, and I was one of the lucky men. The day passed
very pleasantly--Col. W.B. Wooster having his string band on board; in
the evening the officers got up a dance, and amused themselves until
a late hour, when we laid down to sleep, resting securely in the arms
of hope. The morning of the 31st at six o'clock, found us at the wharf
in New Orleans. I proceeded with Col. Sadrick and staff to the St.
Charles hotel, where they took rooms. This was one of the largest and
best hotels in the city, and a great many officers stopped there. I was
much pleased with the hotel, but it being Sabbath I left and started to
find the house of God; that was the disposition of my mind. Very much
to my surprise when going up Congress st. I met a colored friend, and I
asked him if he could tell me where the minister of the A.M. E. Church
stopped. He pointed to a door and said "In there." I went in and to my
surprise and joy found Rev. William A. Dove, one of my old friends. He
treated me very kindly, and I took a seat and we had a chat over old
things, while he was getting ready for church. I told him I wanted a
place to board, and up to this time I had no breakfast. He took me to
sister Vance's and introduced me; she made me welcome and got me a good
breakfast; I found her to be much of a lady. I went to church and found
Rev. Mr. Dove on the stand and was much pleased with his discourse
from the passage of scripture, "But having faith we can withstand the
wiles of the Devil:" he did justice to the subject. In the afternoon I
went to the same church at 4 o'clock to hear one of the natives of New
Orleans; his text was in Numbers, "If God be God, serve him; if Baal,
serve him." He did well. The appointment was then given out for me to
preach in the evening at 7 o'clock. I went according to appointment
and found the house crowded to excess with all classes, both white and
colored, very eager to hear the soldier. I took my text in Isaiah, 3d
chap. 10th verse, "Say ye to the righteous that it shall be well with
him." We had a good time; surely the Lord was with us and blessed us,
and I felt the power of my station. When we adjourned I went to my
lodging place at Mrs. Vance's.
On Monday, the 1st of July, I was visited by some old friends from
Philadelphia--Dr. Rock, Prof. Seymore, Prof. Murray and the chorister.
We all met at Capt. Ingram's and spent some time together. I was glad
to meet them and they to meet me. We parted and met again at 3 P.M. at
dinner and spent a good time. After dinner I went out to visit the city
and made several very pleasant calls.
Tuesday, the 2d, I again met my friends at Mrs. Vance's, and spent
a part of the day. I often went to the St. Charles hotel to see my
officers; and Wednesday, the 3d, the Colonel informed me that we should
leave the next morning. Accordingly the next morning, 4th of July, we
went on board the Blackstone. The only demonstration made in honor of
the great national day was the firing of cannons on the gun boats. At
8 o'clock we were stemming the rapid tide down the Mississippi. When
we were six miles from New Orleans the transport took fire and caused
great confusion among both passengers and crew. The little life boats
were lowered and all the ladies got into them but Mrs. Torance, and she
stood on the deck to watch the result. When the word was given that the
fire was out, and when the confusion was over we got up steam and went
on our way rejoicing. We arrived at Fort Phillips at 5 P.M., got the
balance of the 29th regiment, and then went to the De Molay, laying at
the mouth of the inlet which we reached at 8 P.M., and went on board.
We waited until the morning of the 5th inst. and then got up steam and
started for Brazos Santiago, Texas. The gulf was very rough, and I was
taken sick soon after we started. The 6th inst. found me still sick.
The 7th we reached Brazos and disembarked, and the moment I got on
shore I was better. Brazos has a miserable sandy beach. At that time
the headquarters of the 25th corps were standing in water knee deep. We
remained at this post two days. It was the most miserable place I ever
saw. Here our suffering just commenced. The colored troops were landing
hourly almost famished for the want of water, and it was cruel no water
was provided but condensed water, and but little of that. The poor
soldiers suffered greatly, for the means of making condensed water were
so limited that not more than 5,000 could be applied at one time, and
there were more than 10,000 soldiers there, and for what we did have we
paid ten cents per canteen. The troops were kept on forage during their
two days stay at this point. The 8th inst. I went to the landing and
the Mexicans had got a boat and brought barrels of water out of the Rio
Grande, and the Provost Marshal had given them a guard of colored men
to sell the water to the soldiers for ten cents a canteen. Col. Sadrick
became indignant at the situation of his command and the fare they had
to put up with, and went to the commanding General, Weitzel, and asked
permission to move his troops from Brazos, which was granted, and in
the evening of the 8th inst. we took up our line of march for White
Rench on the Rio Grande, a distance of ten miles, where we arrived at 1
A.M. We had a hard march through mud up to our knees, and water in some
place four feet deep and a mile long. When we arrived at White Rench
the poor soldiers were almost famished for the want of water, and they
rushed on to the bank, it gave way, and seven of the third division
were drowned. The Rio Grande is noted for the rapidity of its waters
and is always muddy. We soon went to sleep and in the morning I arose
early, and the first object that attracted my attention was a drowned
man floating down the stream. When the sun rose I took a look over the
country and not a tree was to be seen as far as the eye could behold,
and in fact we had not seen a single one in our ten miles march from
Brazos to White Rench. We remained in camp the 9th inst. until 5 P.M.
when the order was given to the 2d division to get ready to move to
Brownsville, twenty-eight miles distant. At this time the sore trial
began with both officers and men, about their knapsacks and baggage;
not a horse could be furnished to the commanders or wagons either,
except one to each regiment. When the brigade was ready to move, Col.
Sadrick came up to me and said, "Hill, you had better stay here with
my things a few days as the roads are bad and very muddy: I will leave
Lieut. Hamilton with you, and you can come up on the boat." Being
somewhat fatigued I was glad to comply.
When the division moved I stood and looked after the column until the
line was lost to view, and then I returned to my lonely tent, and it
appeared as if I were the only living man in Texas. During the evening
some friends called on me from the 31st colored regiment and we spent
the evening as pleasantly as we could, the theme of our conversation
being our beloved friends at home and our dissatisfaction at what we
had seen of Texas. When my friends left for their camp I lay down on my
lonesome bed to sleep, having the starry decked heavens for my canopy
and the green earth for my pillow.
The morning of the 10th I arose at 4 o'clock, and as was my habit, I
took a walk up the river. The sun arose beautifully and clear with a
pleasant breeze. At 8 A.M. the Lieutenant took breakfast, and while at
the table said, "Mr. Hill, I am going to Brazos at 9 o'clock, and I
want you to take charge while I am absent." I complied. After he left
I began to feel more lonesome than ever and to think of my beloved
family, until I became quite home-sick, and the day appeared like a
week. In the evening, at 10 o'clock, the Lieutenant returned hungry and
tired; after he had supper he said to me, "We will not be able to get
away from here for a week. I can get no transportation." I enquired
the cause; he said, "The roads are so bad the wagons can't run, and we
have but one boat running to Brownsville, and it is loaded down with
rations for the men, as there are none at Brownsville." I thought this
singular, but did not reply until he was through, and then I said,
"Lieutenant, when did the brigade get to Brownsville?" he said, "They
will get there this evening sometime." I was a disbeliever in the 29th
not marching twenty-eight miles in two days when I knew them to march
sixteen miles from 4 in evening until 2 in the morning, and having
marching orders at that, and went into a fight the next morning at 6
o'clock. I had not forgotten their marching ability, therefore it was a
wonder to me why they should be so long going twenty-eight miles.
I had sent the mail ahead, consequently I made up my mind to walk up
next morning. In the evening there were a great many sick soldiers
returned that were unable to go through the mud and were therefore
compelled to turn back. They spoke very discouragingly of the journey.
I went for the doctor for some, and for others made tea and gave them
something to eat. When the poor soldiers that knew me found I was
there, I never saw men so glad in my life. They had met me on the
battle-field, and had seen the interest I had ofttimes taken in the
sick and wounded soldiers, therefore they were satisfied I would see
they were treated right and had something to eat. After I had seen them
all attended to, I laid down to rest, it being late at night.
The morning of the 12th inst. came. I arose at 5 o'clock and got my
breakfast and took my books and portfolio, bid the Lieutenant good-bye
and started on foot for Brownsville. I thought of getting to my post
that day, but I had not gone more than six miles before I saw my
expectations were blasted. It had not rained in this part of Texas
for six weeks, and yet the mud in the roads was in places up to a
man's knees and for miles hub deep. I was astonished to see the many
stragglers strewed all along the road. Many of them died and were
buried in the forest, with nothing to look at their graves but the wild
beasts of prey. I walked on until 1 P.M. and was only ten miles from
White Rench, the place I left. I sat down and ate my homely dinner
alone. I bowed to God and thanked him for his goodness and care over
me and committed my family to his care, I then started on my journey
again. Being accustomed to smoking after eating I got sick going
without it, not having any matches or fire with which to light my pipe.
In all my journey there was not a house to be seen. I went on wishing
in my mind that I had a light, and while I was walking I came to where
the troops had halted and had a fire in the road. There were two small
chunks lying in the road. I took one of them up and said, "I wish I had
got here before this went out." I blowed the chunk on the end, and to
my surprise, right in the heart was a live coal of fire about as large
as a hickory-nut. I lit my pipe and felt thankful. I carried the chunk
some ways, and thought the good Lord had provided this comfort of life
for me, when in a land of strangers and far from home.
When I left White Rench in the morning, I had two haversacks filled
with rations, but I had by this time reduced them down to two hard
tacks, for I had met so many poor soldiers sick and given out, left
behind with nothing to eat. I shared with them until the last was gone.
I found I would not be able to get to Brownsville that night, and I
said to myself, "What will I do for something to eat?" but I thought
the Lord would provide something for me; therefore, I trusted in him as
my provider and shield. The evening began to draw near and I was seven
miles from Brownsville and two of that was water waist deep. At 7 P.M.
I arrived at the first water, which was a run about eight rods wide and
four feet and a half deep. Here I met with a large number of sick, worn
and wearied soldiers; they were getting supper, and when they saw me
they were made up and gave me a nice supper. We all concluded to stop
there over night, and cross the run in the morning. We soon laid down
and I said "Boys, I don't think it proper for all of us to go to sleep,
and I will take the first watch. This country don't suit me." The men
soon fell asleep, and I lay on the ground and looked at the beautiful
moon, and listened to the many sounds of the great number of strange
beasts of the forest. I laid there until 2 o'clock and was thinking of
my home and beloved friends, when my attention was aroused by a drove
of dogs as I thought, coming through the bushes. I got up and then
they began to howl and I found them to be a drove of wolves. There was
a stream of water between them and us, and they would wade in a piece
and then go back and howl. I then called the boys to "attention," and
fifteen of them took their guns, and I gave the order "fire," and they
fired into the drove of wolves, and I never saw such scampering in all
my life. They howled and left, and the boys all staid awake the rest of
the night.
The morning of the 15th came and they got breakfast and gave me mine,
after which we all started across the run and left our things; then
I went back and carried a sick man over. I bid the boys good bye and
then started on to Brownsville. I had travelled only two miles when I
came to a pond of water about two miles long and about knee deep; this
we had to wade through; it made me very tired; my limbs appeared as if
they were pulling out of the sockets, but I got through and arrived
in Brownsville at 12 M. I expected to find a town settled with people
and where the true God was worshipped, but to my surprise I could see
nothing but little huts made of mud. The natives are very inferior,
and dress very strangely. The men wear only a shirt and drawers, and
when at work they roll their drawers up to their hips, and also go
through the streets in that manner. The women go through the day with
nothing on them but a chemise and a thin skirt made of straw, their
bosoms open and breasts exposed, and when one looks at them they seem
to have no shame. I remained in the town until 2 o'clock and then put
off for headquarters, which were two miles to the right of Brownsville.
I reached there at 4 P.M. and all were glad to see me. I found Col.
Sadrick without a tent and laying on the ground; I got the men and
had him a tent put up that night, and I laid down out of doors. The
ground was covered with lizards, frogs, and what is called the horned
toad, which has horns like a goat, and a wreath of beads around its
body; they look bold and courageous. These reptiles were numerous,
with details of musquitoes like swarms of bees. The morning of the 4th
inst. found me quite sick, so much so that I had to call in a doctor.
He examined me and said I was ruptured from the strain of walking. I
began to decline until I was unable to get about, and I almost gave up
in despair when I looked at my condition, five thousand miles from home
and among strangers without a friend. My best friend, Jordan Jones, of
Co. K, was left behind. The company to which I belonged was at Brazos,
and I was left to the mercy of God and strangers. In the midst of my
illness I had a kind physician, Dr. Perry, of the 11th U.S. colored
regiment. He treated me kindly and gave me the best of attention. I
remained at my quarters until the 15th inst. and then my regiment came
up to Brownsville. The men were very much fatigued, Captain Clark being
an officer with very little feeling for a colored man, marched them
through in one day. Mr. Frank Walker died on account of the hard march
and great heat. Many more were sick and were obliged to be sent to the
hospital. Col. Wooster being a man of feeling, and one that looked to
the interest of the regiment and the welfare of the men, put Capt.
Clark under arrest and kept him there until the Col. resigned; but
three days after the Col. left he again took command of the company.
I remained sick at my quarters until August the 18th, when I was
recommended to the War Department for my discharge by Dr. Perry. Col.
Sadrick had an ambulance brought and I started to be mustered out, but
when I got to Brownsville I was so near dead that I was compelled to go
to the general hospital. This hospital was kept under the direction of
Dr. Major Stevens from Philadelphia, and belonged to the 29th colored
regiment. The doctor treated me with the utmost kindness and gave
me the best of attention. At this post I witnessed the most brutal
treatment (not to me but to others.) There were seven hundred sick in
this hospital, four hundred of that number in the ward with me.
The hospital stewards and nurses were men with no human feeling.
The poor sick were dying ten per day, and before they were cold the
hospital stewards would search them, and take any thing valuable that
they found about them before they reported them dead. On one occasion
there was a small boy, who had waited on some officer, that was quite
sick, and one morning he was quite fretful. One of the ward masters
went to him and struck him with a strap three blows, then took him
up and made him walk to the door leading to the street, and brought
him back again and laid him down, and in one hour he was dead, and
the spirit had flown to the God that gave it. It would be impossible
for me to tell the many instances of cruelty perpetrated on the poor
sick soldiers by the hands of these colored stewards. They acted more
like demons than human beings. The fare was also very bad; we had two
pieces of bread and a pint of coffee per day; this we were compelled to
put up with. I remained at this hospital two weeks and then asked the
doctor to let me go to my quarters, which he granted, and I took the
ambulance and again returned to the 25th headquarters. I remained there
until a general order came that all detached men unable for duty should
report to their regiments and be sent to the hospital. Therefore I
went to my regiment, and to my regret when I got there my best friend,
Col. W.B. Wooster had resigned and started home. I went and reported
to Adjutant J. Spaulding and he directed me to my company, where I
went and reported to my orderly, J. Spencer, of Co. D. He gave me my
quarters and I stayed there one week and then was put on detail to go
to New Orleans; I got ready and we went to Brownsville, and the order
was countermanded, and we returned to camp the next morning. There I
was again detailed at the headquarters of the corps, where I stayed
until the 20th of September, and then I had some words with one of the
General's waiters, and I would not stay any longer and again went to my
regiment, where I was at the time of writing this sketch.
At this period of my stay in Texas joy began to spring up. We had
just received news that the 29th regiment was ordered home. The men
began to have the home-fever and it became general. Every day the men
in camp had appointed to be mustered out of the U.S. service, but
without avail. At last the happy day arrived and all hearts were glad.
On the 14th day of October, 1865, at nine A.M., Co. K was mustered
out; Captain Thorpe was in command of Co. K at this time. Then came
Companies C, E, and D to which latter I belonged; H, G, F, B, and so on
until the last company was mustered out. The occasion was one of note.
Every man was orderly and sober. All were eagerly waiting the order to
strike tents for home, for that was the theme of every one's thoughts.
We now hoped to leave Texas for home and trusted in God for our safe
arrival.
October 15th, the 29th regiment left camp Sadrick, Texas, for
Brownsville, on their way home and were escorted through Brownsville
by the 9th U.S. regiment, Col. Bailey in command. We marched to an
open field where the battalion was halted by Col. Torance, and the
officers and men of the 9th U.S. regiment took leave of the 29th. It
was an impressive scene. The 9th and 29th had shared the greatest
dangers together, and fought side by side, and now they were parting.
We shook hands and they bid us God speed. The headquarter band, Gen.
Smith's, escorted us through Brownsville. The line of march was taken
up again at 10 A.M. The band played "And beneath the starry flag we
shall breathe the air again," until the footsteps of the 29th were lost
in profound silence. The 43d U.S. left the same day. The day passed
off pleasantly, although the roads were bad and ofttimes the men were
compelled to wade in water and mud waist deep, the thoughts of going
home made the march seem easier than any other we had been in. No one
can experience the feelings of a returning soldier but one that has
been a soldier. I was left sick at Brownsville, unable to march when
the 29th left, consequently I went on the boat down the Rio Grande with
the sick. Wednesday the 15th, we left Brownsville. After sailing down
the Rio Grande, night overtaking us, we were compelled to land on the
Mexican side and stay all night. It stormed all night and we spent a
disagreeable time.
The next morning, the 17th, we passed Clarksville on the Mexican
side, and landed at Brazos, and camped on the sand all night; the air
was clear and cool. We had a rough time coming from Clarksville to
Brazos outside, and came near being lost, but we landed safely at 4
P.M. The 20th was clear and cold--the 22d U.S. troops left Brazos on
a transport for New Orleans. The 21st was pleasant. The 22d found us
still waiting for transportation. At this point I had a chance to see
all of our sick, numbering forty-eight. I was called at 2 o'clock to
go and see Chancey Douglas of Co. C, 29th regiment. He was very sick,
but I gave him good counsel and he got better and was able to come
along at 12 M. when we embarked on board the transport Alabama, and at
4 P.M. we weighed anchor, bound for New Orleans. The 24th, the gulf
was so rough that we could not sail, and were compelled to anchor on
account of the gale. We weighed anchor again at 8 A.M. on the morning
of the 25th, bound for Galveston, Texas, where we arrived at 12 M. We
found Galveston a splendid city, four hundred and fifty miles from New
Orleans. Here we took in wood and coal, and in the evening visited the
city and the churches there. One of the soldiers of Co. H died, by the
name of Davis; how true that "In the midst of life we are in death."
Dr. Hyde deserves great credit for the consideration he showed. He got
a nice plain coffin, the only one I had seen for four months for a
colored soldier. The night of the 20th we were in a dreadful gale off
Cape Horn, so much so that the pilot was compelled to lay by all night
in the harbor. It was the most severe storm I ever witnessed. We put
out to sea in the morning but were compelled to turn back. The soldiers
were quite unruly while we lay at Galveston, so much so that Col.
Torance was compelled to have the transport hauled off from the wharf,
and some of the men were left ashore that went off without leave. The
26th we started again for New Orleans, but we were compelled to come
back and lay in the harbor; we came near being lost, but God was with
us. The 27th we again started, bound for New Orleans, where we arrived
on the 28th inst. at 7 A.M. We had a hard time and often thought it
was our last, but the good Lord was with us. We went off the transport
Alabama the same day we arrived, and marched to the south side of the
city and encamped on an open lot, and put up our shelters the best
we could and laid on the ground. The night was cold and chilly; we
suffered a great deal and many took sick.
The 29th inst. was the Sabbath, a most beautiful day. I remained in
camp. On the 30th I visited the city of New Orleans and found a great
number of my old friends. The first annual session of the A.M. E.
Conference was in session, Bishop Campbell presiding. I spent a good
time with the brethren. The 31st was a pleasant day and I was in camp.
We remained in New Orleans two weeks. On the night of the 10th of
November a man of Co. K was shot. There was quite an excitement in camp
on account of it. We broke camp on the 11th inst. at 11 o'clock, and
marched through the principal streets of the city and halted at the
wharf, where the transport Champion laid to take us on board.