THE KNIGHTS OF THE GOLDEN HORSE SHOE.
_Governor Spotswood and Others Start on an Expedition over the Blue
Ridge Mountains--They Pass Through what is now Fredericksburg--They
Join Others at Germanna, where they make Extensive Preparations--The
Country Rough and the Woods Dense--Bears, Deer, Turkeys, Squirrels and
Snakes Plentiful--The Summit of the Mountain Reached--The Sublime
Scene--The Health of the King Drank and the Country Taken Possession
of in His Name--The Shenandoah River, &c._
Two years after the settlement of Germanna Governor Spotswood visited the
place, in company with gentlemen and others who were to accompany him in
his famous expedition over the Blue Ridge mountains, which has been the
theme of the writers of song and story, and upon which has recently been
founded a secret benevolent order. So much has been written about this
expedition, in this country and in Europe, into which so much romance has
been woven, and yet so little is known about it by the general public, at
the expense of length and tediousness to the reader of the narrative, we
propose to give John Fontaine's[12] diary, written daily as they
progressed on the journey, from the time he left Williamsburg with the
Governor, until he returned to that city, that we may be thoroughly
informed of all the particulars. The expedition was made in August and
September, 1716, and the following is John Fontaine's diary:
Williamsburg, 20th August, 1716.--In the morning got my horses ready, and
what baggage was necessary, and I waited on the Governor who was in
readiness for an expedition over the Appalachian mountains. We breakfasted
and about ten got on horseback, and, at four came to the Brickhouse, upon
York River, where we crossed the ferry and at six came to Mr. Austin
Moore's house[13] on Mattapony River, in King William County; here we lay
all night and were well entertained.
21st.--Fair weather. At ten we set out from Mr. Moore's, and crossed the
river of Mattapony, and continued on the road, and were on horseback till
nine of the clock at night, before we came to Mr. Robert Beverley's house
where we were well entertained, and remained this night.
22nd.--At nine in the morning we set out from Mr. Beverley's. The Governor
left his chaise here, and mounted his horse. The weather fair, we
continued on our journey until we came to Mr. Woodford's where we lay, and
were well entertained. This house lies on Rappahannock River ten miles
below the falls.
23rd.--Here we remained all this day, and diverted ourselves and rested
our horses.
24th.--In the morning, at seven, we mounted our horses and came to Austin
Smith's house[14] about ten, where we dined, and remained till about one
of the clock, when we set out, and about nine of the clock we came to the
German-town, where we rested that night--bad beds and indifferent
entertainment.
German-town, 25th.--After dinner we went to see the mines, but I could not
observe that there was any good mine. The Germans pretend that it is a
silver mine; we took some of the ore and endeavored to run it, but could
get nothing out of it, and I am of opinion it will not come to anything,
no, not as much as lead. Many of the gentlemen of the county are concerned
in this work. We returned and to our hard beds.
26th.--At seven we got up, and several gentlemen of the country, that
were to meet the Governor at this place for the expedition, arrived here,
as also two companies of Rangers, consisting each of six men, and an
officer. Four Meherrin Indians also came.[15] In the morning I diverted
myself with other gentlemen shooting at a mark. At twelve we dined, and
after dinner we mounted our horses and crossed the Rappahannoc River that
runs by this place, and went to find out some convenient place for our
horses to feed in, and to view the land hereabouts. Our guide left us, and
we went so far in the woods that we did not know the way back again; and
so we hallowed and fired our guns. Half an hour after sunset the guide
came to us, and we went to cross the river by a ford higher up. The
descent to the river being steep, and the night dark, we were obliged to
dismount and lead our horses down to the river side, which was very
troublesome. The bank being very steep, the greatest part of our company
went into the water to mount their horses, where they were up to the
crotch in the water. After we had forded the river and came to the other
side, where the bank was steep also, in going up, the horse of one of our
company slipped and fell back into the river on the top of his rider, but
he received no other damage than being heartily wet, which made sport for
the rest. A hornet stung one of the gentlemen in the face which swelled
prodigiously. About ten we came to the town, where we supped, and to bed.
27th.--We got our tents in order, and our horses shod. About twelve I was
taken with a violent headache and pains in all my bones, so that I was
obliged to lie down, and was very bad that day.
28th.--About one in the morning I was taken with a violent fever, which
abated about six at night, and I began to take the bark, and had one ounce
divided into eight doses, and took two of them by ten of the clock that
night. The fever abated, but I had great pains in my head and bones.
29th.--In the morning we got all things in readiness, and about one we
left the German-town to set out on our intended journey. At five in the
afternoon, the Governor gave orders to encamp near a small river, three
miles from Germanna, which we called Expedition Run, and here we lay all
night. The first encampment was called Beverley Camp, in honor of one of
the gentlemen of our party. We made great fires, and supped, and drank
good punch. By ten of the clock I had taken all of my ounce of Jesuit's
Bark, but my head was much out of order.
30th.--In the morning about seven of the clock, the trumpet sounded to
awake all the company, and we got up. One Austin Smith, one of the
gentlemen with us, having a fever, returned home. We had lain upon the
ground under cover of our tents, and we found by the pains in our bones
that we had not had good beds to lie upon. At nine in the morning, we sent
our servants and baggage forward, and we remained, because two of the
Governor's horses had strayed. At half past two we got the horses, at
three we mounted, and at half an hour after four, we came up with our
baggage at a small river, three miles on the way, which we called Mine
River, because there was an appearance of a silver mine by it. We made
about three miles more, and came to another small river, which is at the
foot of a small mountain, so we encamped here and called it Mountain Run,
and our camp we called Todd's Camp. We had good pasturage for our horses,
and venison in abundance for ourselves which we roasted before the fire
upon wooden forks, and so we went to bed in our tents. Made 6 miles this
day.
31st.--At eight in the morning we set out from Mountain Run, and after
going five miles we came upon the upper part of Rappahannoc River. One of
the gentlemen and I, we kept on one side of the company about a mile, to
have the better hunting. I saw a deer, and shot him from my horse, but the
horse threw me a terrible fall and ran away; we ran after, and with a
great deal of difficulty got him again; but we could not find the deer I
had shot, and we lost ourselves, and it was two hours before we could come
upon the track of our company. About five miles further we crossed the
same river again, and two miles further we met with a large bear, which
one of our company shot, and I got the skin. We killed several deer, and
about two miles from the place where we killed the bear, we encamped upon
Rappahannock River. From our encampment we could see the Appalachian Hills
very plain. We made large fires, pitched our tents, and cut bows to lie
upon, had good liquor, and at ten we went to sleep. We always kept a
sentry at the Governor's door. We called this Smith's Camp. Made this day
fourteen miles.
1st September.--At eight we mounted our horses, and made the first five
miles of our way through a very pleasant plain, which lies where
Rappahannock River forks. I saw there the largest timber, the finest and
deepest mould, and the best grass that I ever did see.[16] We had some of
our baggage put out of order, and our company dismounted, by hornets
stinging the horses. This was some hindrance, and did a little damage, but
afforded a great deal of diversion. We killed three bears this day, which
exercised the horses as well as the men. We saw two foxes but did not
pursue them; we killed several deer. About five of the clock, we came to a
run of water at the foot of a hill, where we pitched our tents. We called
the encampment Dr. Robinson's Camp, and the river Blind Run. We had good
pasturage for our horses, and every one was cook for himself. We made our
beds with bushes as before. On this day we made 13 miles.
2nd.--At nine we were all on horseback and after riding about five miles
we crossed Rappahannoc river,[17] almost at the head, where it is very
small. We had a rugged way; we passed over a great many small runs of
water, some of which were deep, and others very miry. Several of our
company were dismounted, some were down with their horses, others under
their horses, and some thrown off. We saw a bear running down a tree, but
it being Sunday we did not endeavor to kill anything. We encamped at five
by a small river we called White Oak River,[18] and called our Camp
Taylor's Camp.
3rd.--About eight we were on horseback, and about ten we came to a
thicket, so tightly laced together, that we had a great deal of trouble
to get through; our baggage was injured, our clothes torn all to rags, and
the saddles and holsters also torn. About five of the clock we encamped
almost at the head of James River,[19] just below the great mountains. We
called this camp Colonel Robertson's Camp. We made all this day but eight
miles.
4th.--We had two of our men sick with the measles, and one of our horses
poisoned with a rattlesnake. We took the heaviest of our baggage, our
tired horses, and the sick men, and made as convenient a lodge for them as
we could, and left people to guard them, and hunt for them. We had
finished this work by twelve, and so we went out. The sides of the
mountains were so full of vines and briers, that We were forced to clear
most of the way before us. We crossed one of the small mountains this side
of the Appalachian, and from the top of it we had a fine view of the
plains below. We were obliged to walk up the most of the way, there being
an abundance of loose stones on the side of the hill. I killed a large
rattlesnake here, and the other people killed three more. We made about
four miles and so came to the side of James River, where a man may jump
over it, and there we pitched our tents. As the people were lighting the
fire, there came out of a large log of wood a prodigious snake, which they
killed; so this camp was called Rattlesnake Camp, but it was otherwise
called Brook's Camp.
5th.--A fair day. At nine we were mounted; we were obliged to have axe-men
to clear the way in some places. We followed the windings of James River,
observing that it came from the very top of the mountains. We killed two
rattlesnakes during our ascent. In some places it was very steep, in
others it was so that we could ride up. About one of the clock we got to
the top of the mountain; about four miles and a half, and we came to the
very head spring of James River, where it runs no bigger than a man's arm,
from under a large stone. We drank King George's health and all the Royal
Family's at the very top of the Appalachian mountains. About a musket-shot
from the spring is another, which rises and runs down on the other side;
it goes westward, and we thought we could go down that way, but we met
with such prodigious precipices, that we were obliged to return to the top
again. We found some trees which had been formerly marked, I suppose, by
the Northern Indians, and following these trees, we found a good, safe
descent. Several of the company were for returning; but the Governor
persuaded them to continue on. About five we were down on the other side,
and continued our way for about seven miles further, until we came to a
large river, by the side of which we encamped. We made this day fourteen
miles. I, being somewhat more curious than the rest, went on a high rock
on the top of the mountain, to see fine prospects, and I lost my gun. We
saw, when we were over the mountains, the footing of elks and buffaloes,
and their beds. We saw a vine which bore a sort of wild cucumber; and a
shrub with a fruit like unto a currant. We eat very good wild grapes. We
called this place Spotswood Camp, after our Governor.
[Illustration: "Mary Washington House," home of Mary, the Mother of
Washington, and where she died in 1789; now the property of the A. P. of
V. A. (See page 157)]
[Illustration: "Federal Hill," home of Thomas Reade Rootes, Gov. Brooke,
etc.; now the residence of Mrs. H. Theodore Wight. (See page 153)]
6th.--We crossed the river, which we called Euphrates.[20] It is very
deep; the main course of the water is North; it is fourscore yards wide in
the narrowest part. We drank some healths on the other side, and returned;
after which I went a swimming in it. We could not find any fordable place,
except the one by which we crossed, and it was deep in several places. I
got some grass hoppers and fished; and another and I, we caught a dish of
fish, some perch, and a fish they called chub. The others went a hunting,
and killed deer and turkeys. The Governor had graving irons, but could not
grave anything, the stones were so hard, I graved my name on a tree by the
river side; and the Governor buried a bottle with a paper enclosed, on
which he writ that he took possession of this place in the name and for
King George the First of England.[21] We had a good dinner, and after it
we got the men together, and loaded all their arms, and we drank the
King's health in Champagne, and fired a volley--the Princess's health in
Burgundy, and fired a volley, and all the rest of the Royal Family in
Claret, and a volley. We had several sorts of liquors, viz: Virginia red
wine and white wine, Irish usquebaugh, brandy, shrub, two sorts of rum,
champagne, canary, cherry, punch, water, cider, &c.
I sent two of the rangers to look for my gun, which I dropped in the
mountains; they found it, and brought it to me at night, and I gave them a
pistole for their trouble. We called the highest mountain Mount George,
and the one we crossed over Mount Spotswood.
7th.--At seven in the morning we mounted our horses, and parted with the
rangers, who were to go further on, and we returned homewards; we repassed
the mountains, and at five in the afternoon we came to Hospital Camp,
where we left our sick men, and heavy baggage and we found all things well
and safe. We camped here, and called it Captain Clouder's Camp.
8th.--At nine we were all on horseback. We saw several bears and deer, and
killed some wild turkeys. We encamped at the side of a run, and called the
place Mason's Camp. We had good forage for our horses, and we lay as
usual. Made twenty miles this day.
9th.--We set out at nine of the clock, and before twelve we saw several
bears, and killed three. One of them attacked one of our men that was
riding after him, and narrowly missed him; he tore his things that he had
behind him from off the horse, and would have destroyed him, had he not
had immediate help from the other men and our dogs. Some of the dogs
suffered severely in this engagement. At two we crossed one of the
branches of the Rappahannock River, and at five we encamped on the side of
the Rapid Ann, on a tract of land that Mr. Beverley hath design to take
up. We made, this day, twenty-three miles, and called this Captain Smith's
Camp. We eat part of one of the bears, which tasted very well, and would
be good, and might pass for veal, if one did not know what it was. We were
very merry, and diverted ourselves with our adventures.
10th.--At eight we were on horseback, and about ten, as we were going up a
small hill, Mr. Beverley and his horse fell down, and they both rolled to
the bottom; but there were no bones broken on either side. At twelve as we
were crossing a run of water, Mr. Clouder fell in, so we called this place
Clouder's Run. At one we arrived at a large spring, where we dined and
drank a bowl of punch. We called this Fontaine's Spring. About two we got
on horseback, and at four we reached Germanna. The Governor thanked the
gentlemen for their assistance in the expedition. Mr. Mason left us here.
I went at five to swim in the Rappahannock River, and returned to the
town.
11th.--After breakfast all our company left us, excepting Dr. Robinson and
Mr. Clouder. We walked all about the town, and the Governor settled his
business with the Germans here, and accommodated the minister and the
people, and then to bed.
12th.--After breakfast went a fishing in the Rappahannock, and took seven
fish, which we had for dinner; after which Mr. Robinson and I, we
endeavored to melt some ore in the Smith's forge, but could get nothing
out of it. Dr. Robinson's and Mr. Clouder's boys were taken violently ill
with fever. Mr. Robinson and Mr. Clouder left us, and the boys remained
behind.
13th.--About eight of the clock we mounted our horses, and went to the
mine, where we took several pieces of ore; and at nine we set out from the
mine, our servants having gone before; and about three we overtook them
in the woods, and there the Governor and I dined. We mounted afterwards
and continued on our road. I killed a black snake about five feet long. We
arrived at Mr. Woodford's[22] on Rappahannoc River, about six, and
remained there all night.
14th.--At seven we sent our horses and baggage before us; and at ten we
mounted our horses; we killed another snake, four feet nine inches long.
At twelve we came to the church, where we met with Mr. Buckner, and
remained till two, to settle some county business; then we mounted our
horses, and saw several wild turkeys on the road; and at seven we reached
Mr. Beverley's house, which is on the head of the Mattapony River, where
we were well entertained. My boy was taken with a violent fever, and very
sick.
15th.--At seven my servant was some what better, and I sent him away with
my horses, and about ten o'clock the Governor took his chaise, and I with
him, and at twelve we came to a mill-dam, which we had great difficulty to
get the chaise over. We got into it again, and continued on our way, and
about five we arrived at Mr. Baylor's, where we remained all night.
16th.--My servant was so sick, that I was obliged to leave him, and the
Governor's servants took care of my horses. At ten we sent the chaise over
the Mattapony River, and it being Sunday, we went to church in King
William County, where we heard a sermon from Mr. Monroe. After sermon we
continued our journey until we came to Mr. West's plantation, where
Colonel Basset waited for the Governor with his pinnace, and other boats
for his servants. We arrived at his house by five of the clock, and were
nobly entertained.
17th.--At ten we left Colonel Basset's, and at three we arrived at
Williamsburg, where we dined together and went to my lodgings, and to bed,
being well tired as well as my horses.
I reckon that from Williamsburg to the Euphrates River is in all 219
miles, so that our journey, going and coming, has been in all 438 miles.