SAFETY AND BAULK PLAY
The subject of this chapter, though of very great importance, is
unquestionably of much less interest than the consideration of making
strokes, just as in war attack is preferred to defence. Yet no general
is fit for command who does not well understand defensive tactics, and
in the same way a billiard-player must often play a defensive game. In
the first place, such a game is advisable when the adversary is a
stronger player; he presumably will give points, and almost certainly
will try to force the game, which may often be saved by prudent play.
Again, when in possession of a great lead a defensive rather than an
enterprising game is to be recommended; whereas, if behind, every
reasonable endeavour to score and get a break should be made. It is a
difficult matter to say how far a cautious game should be advised, for
whilst prudence is praiseworthy, timidity, or cushion-crawling, as it is
termed, is contemptible. Speaking generally, and considering average
people, it may be said that if there is a small stake on the game, or
if, what is in effect the same thing, the loser has to pay for the
table, quite sufficient caution will usually be shown: whereas where
there is neither stake nor payment great laxity in playing is likely to
result. The same thing is seen in professional play; nowadays there is
rarely a genuine match, the stakes are more or less imaginary, and the
consequence is that the strict game suffers if it seems to interfere
with taking gate-money. One evil effect of general laxity of play,
neglect of etiquette, and so on, is that if occasion should arise for a
serious game caution is very likely to be completely overdone, and a
better player may, by adopting over-cautious tactics, actually throw the
game into the hands of a more ignorant performer. No doubt, as in most
other things, a middle course between temerity and timidity is best. It
may be said that safety should be played for when there is no reasonable
chance of making a score; and from this it follows that an inferior
player should often content himself with giving a safe miss when a
superior player may try to continue the game.
Safety is sought for in many ways, but with the majority of amateurs is
more often the result of accident than of design. The simplest form, and
that which is most familiar, is exhibited at the opening strokes of a
game. The person who commences has the red ball on the spot, and may
play at it if he please; but he rarely does so, preferring to give a
miss in baulk. The adversary then has all the chances which the other
player had, with the addition of those of a cannon; yet, unless the
latter be very tempting, he too follows suit with a miss below the
middle pocket, choosing the right or left so as to leave the squarer
angle and more difficult score. Sometimes there is a good deal of
fencing for the first opening, and whenever a miss is given endeavour
should be made so to place ball 1 that not only is it difficult to score
off, but that at the same time the adversary is forced to try for a
stroke beyond his powers, or at any rate to disturb the position. He is
then at a disadvantage, for he cannot give a miss because the other
player has an easy stroke on the balls, and if he fails to score a good
opening may be left. In giving a miss endeavour should always be made to
place ball 1 in a commanding position, as well as in safety. All misses
must be played with the point of the cue, and it is often advisable, if
a careless player gives the miss otherwise, to insist on his making the
stroke over again in the proper way. Another general rule is that when
playing a miss back into baulk it is advisable to play from one or more
cushions rather than direct for the desired position. The stroke may
thus be played stronger, and the danger of failing to reach baulk is
avoided. Another mode of playing for safety is to make a double or
single baulk when the opponent’s ball is in hand; and there is yet a
third mode, respecting which it is difficult to write, but which exists
none the less, and that is so to regulate play that if failure to score
should result as little as possible is left. Such a game, though fatal,
we imagine, to anything like free play and long breaks, is yet very
effective amongst players of moderate capacity. It will not, however, be
seriously disputed that excessive safety play and use of obstructive
tactics tend to alienate the sympathy of spectators, often most
unjustifiably; witness the delight with which the public welcome a score
in baulk from a safety miss, even when success is gained by the most
palpable fluke. They seem to say, ‘Serve the cautious man right for his
timidity’; and the only persons who appear to hold other views are those
who have backed the prudent though unfortunate player.
Whilst on the subject of safety, it is well to consider the question of
pocketing the adversary’s ball, and giving a miss in baulk. This mode of
play is generally resented, and it is at best a confession of weakness;
yet there are times when it is the game, and should be played, and the
outcry against it should be promptly put down. It is one of those
matters in which sentiment is allowed to outweigh expediency. Yet no
wise man will neglect sentiment; and it is probably better to lose a few
games by not availing oneself of the unpopular stroke than to gain them
and lose the goodwill of the company. Nevertheless, there are times when
a man may be greatly blamed for omitting to take advantage of the
opening; for example, if his score is 95 out of 100, and he has the
opportunity of putting his adversary down and giving a double baulk,
should he neglect to do so and, in consequence, lose the game, neither
he nor his backers are likely to be pleased. So, perhaps, though
sentiment is strong, business is stronger, and each may prevail at
different times and under different circumstances without offence.
A few examples of safety and baulk strokes will be found in the
following diagrams:
Diagram I.—Ball 2, say the red, safe near cushion 1; ball 1 as shown
near cushion 6, ball 3 in hand. Play ball 1 a plain medium No. 1
strength against cushion 3, whence it will impinge on cushion 4, and
travel in the direction indicated. Even if ball 1 occupy the position
1′, it is still advisable to give a miss in baulk by striking cushion 3
in the first instance.
Diagram II.: Example A.—Ball 1 in hand; ball 2 over right top pocket;
ball 3 or 3′ angled for ball 2, which is supposed to be the red. Ball 1
should be played a No. 1 strength to the top cushion to rest near ball
2, where it cannot be directly struck by ball 3. The best chance of
disturbing the arrangement is to play ball 3 off cushion 5 or 6.
Example B.—Balls 2 and 3 as shown, the former being the red; ball 1 in
hand. There is a certain winning hazard from ball 3 on ball 2, and if
ball 1 has to play he should give a miss out of baulk, but directly in
line with balls 2 and 3, and as close to the latter as possible. The
hazard is then much cramped. Unless the balls are all close, a miss of
this sort would be imprudent, for several solutions of the difficulty
would present themselves to the player of ball 3.
Diagram III.: Example A.—Ball 2 near or touching cushion 1 as shown;
ball 1 conveniently near it; ball 3 in hand. Play ball 1 a low screw on
ball 2, rather fuller than half-ball, but carefully avoid a kiss, with
strength about No. 2. Ball 1 will remain under cushion 1, whilst ball 2
is doubled to baulk. This is an excellent type of stroke, for by means
of the screw ball 1 returns to the cushion further from the pocket than
ball 2, and is almost always perfectly safe.
Example B.—Balls 1 and 2 as shown; ball 3 in hand. Play ball 1, with
right side, a gentle stroke on ball 2, fine, so as to cut the latter
towards the right bottom pocket; ball 1 will come off cushion 3 and rest
in baulk.
[Illustration:
Diagram I.
]
[Illustration:
Diagram II.
]
[Illustration:
Diagram III.
]
Diagram IV.—A very useful type of stroke is here exhibited. When playing
the spot stroke, position is often practically lost by ball 1 remaining
very near the line A A′ parallel to cushion 1, either above or below it,
at such a distance from ball 2 as to make the hazard very dangerous.
Similarly, in top of the table play, the loss of the adversary’s ball,
whilst ball 1 is left somewhat as shown, necessitates safety play. Ball
3 being in hand, two courses are open for ball 1; either it may be
played into baulk in the way shown on Diagram I., or the double baulk,
which is not difficult, may be played. It is thus made: ball 1
three-quarters right about No. 3 strength on ball 2, one-quarter right;
the paths indicated will be approximately followed. The usual fault with
this stroke is to play too full on ball 2. If played fine with freedom
and a little right side to ensure impact on cushion 5, and to avoid
cushion 6, the stroke will generally be successful. A little difference
in the position of ball 1 does not materially alter the stroke, which
should be played until the winning hazard and position may be tried with
reasonable chance of success. Play the stroke from both sides of the
table till confidence is gained.
Diagram V.—What is said of the last stroke applies for the most part to
this one, the difference being that ball 1 is above the line A A′. To
make a double baulk, play ball 1 one-half low and right, about No. 3
strength, on ball 2, between one-half and one-quarter left. A little
practice will show that there is considerable margin in the division of
ball 2, within which the double baulk may be made; consequently the
paths travelled by the two balls will diverge materially from those
shown, which are for ball 2 about one-quarter left, or a rather fine
stroke. Ball 1 may be moved either nearer the spot or nearer cushion 1,
and the stroke may still be made, its limit being, of course, when the
winning or losing hazard into the right top pocket becomes worth
playing.
[Illustration:
Diagram IV.
]
[Illustration:
Diagram V.
]
Diagram VI.—Two very useful and very common types of double baulk
strokes are here shown; they should, like most of the other strokes, be
practised on either side of the table till they can be made with
certainty. Ball 2 need not be touching the cushion; some variation of
play is required as it is moved away, but not more than may be left to
the intelligence of the reader who has thus far followed the advice
given in this volume. In practice it will be found that the method of
play shown for Example A holds good when ball 2 is close to the
baulk-line, and for a certain distance above it when the other mode of
play comes in. With ivory balls 18 in. above baulk may be considered the
limit within which the stroke A should be confined; after that, and up
to the middle pocket, the double baulk should be made as shown at B.
With bonzoline balls the limit of the former stroke is considerably
extended, but the 18 in. limit, though it may easily be passed, will be
found safe with any balls. The double baulk may be made with
extraordinary differences of stroke; the ball which has to travel round
the table may impinge on cushion 1 anywhere from the point P towards the
right; but it is advantageous so to play that impact with the cushion
shall be to the right of the spot in order that the chance of the ball
catching the corners of or entering the right middle pocket may be
avoided.
Example A.—Ball 2 (the red) near cushion 5 as shown, within 18 in. above
the baulk-line, ball 1 in hand. Place ball 1 towards the right of baulk;
play one-half right No. 3 strength on ball 2 one-quarter right; it will
return from cushion 5 towards the right bottom pocket; ball 1, after
impact with cushions 5, 1, and 2, will enter baulk towards the left
bottom pocket. The finer ball 2 is struck, the nearer to cushion 5 will
it come into baulk, and the less strength is required, which, however,
must be compensated for by more side.
Example B is in a way the converse of A, for ball 1 performs the short
and ball 2 the long journey to baulk. Place ball 2 as shown 18 in. or
further from the baulk-line, ball 1 towards the left spot of baulk. Play
ball 1 from one-half to three-quarters low No. 3 strength on ball 2
about three-quarters left (as full as possible without the kiss); it
will rebound from cushion 5, and after touching cushions 1 and 2 will
enter baulk in the direction of the left bottom pocket; ball 1 will
return from cushion 5 towards the right bottom pocket. This stroke can
be made when ball 2 is a little above the middle pocket, but it requires
execution and is too risky to be recommended.
[Illustration:
Diagram VI.
]
Diagram VII.—When the red represented by ball 2 is above the middle
pocket as shown, a double baulk may be made, and the stroke is worth
working at for the sake of acquiring some certainty in striking ball 2
with freedom fuller than half-ball. It is not in reality a very
difficult stroke, but it is not one to be recommended at critical
moments, when the simplest solution would usually be to play back into
baulk. Yet there are times when it is obligatory to hit the red ball, as
for example when the adversary is within one point of game; and since
with practice the stroke may be successfully made three out of four
times, and a person who has once mastered it is, even if out of
practice, more likely to make it than to fail, it should in such a case
be played.
Suppose ball 2 to be placed as shown, exact position by measurement
being unnecessary; balls 1 and 3 are off the table and the former is to
play. Place ball 1 on the baulk-line for a three-quarters follow stroke
on ball 2, so that it may strike cushion 1 well to the right of the
spot. The diagram, though without pretension to absolute accuracy, will
serve as a guide. Play ball 1 centre or rather higher a free No. 3 or
No. 4 strength on ball 2 three-quarters left, or slightly fuller, which
will then impinge on cushions 2, 1, and 6, entering baulk in the
direction of the right bottom pocket. Ball 1 will after impact follow
through ball 2 to cushion 1 and return thence to baulk. The stroke is a
pretty one, and its practice is interesting.
Another type of baulk stroke is shown in Diagram VIII. It is clear that
the single baulk would be simpler than the double, for by playing a more
or less full stab on ball 2 it would of necessity run into baulk, whilst
ball 1 would remain near the position which ball 2 occupied. But the
double baulk is not difficult. Place the balls as in the diagram, play
ball 1 one-half high with left side, a free No. 2 full (if anything to
the left of full) on ball 2, which will after striking cushion 6 travel
towards the right bottom pocket; ball 1, following through ball 2, will
strike cushion 6 at the same place, but by reason of the follow and side
will shoot off at a different angle, keeping nearer cushion 5. When ball
1 approaches position 1′, the stroke is similarly made, but must be
played a little harder, for ball 2 will strike cushion 3 near P, and
thence enter baulk. This class of stroke may be set up on either side of
the table almost anywhere between baulk and the top.
[Illustration:
Diagram VII.
]
[Illustration:
Diagram VIII.
]
[Illustration:
Diagram IX.
]
There are, of course, numerous other positions whence a double baulk may
be played, either with or without the help of a cushion; but the
examples given will, it is hoped, be sufficient to show how in positions
where the mode of play is not self-evident the strokes should be
attempted. As a general rule, endeavour should be made to leave the
player’s ball and the red some distance apart, in order that the
adversary may find it difficult to score from a cushion, or to disturb a
comfortable arrangement. A useful set of strokes for such score or
disturbance is shown in Diagram IX. The three variations should be
practised, and then if in a game some intermediate stroke may be
required, the player will be able to judge where to place his ball. The
angle of return can also be controlled by the strength.
Let balls 2 and 3 be in baulk as shown, and ball 1 be in hand. It is
desired to disturb balls 2 and 3 with the chance of scoring. Play ball 1
from the right corner of the =Ｄ=, centre on a point P about seven inches
from the right top pocket, No. 2 strength; it will rebound from cushions
1 and 2, and following a path similar to that shown have a very fair
chance of cannoning from ball 2 to ball 3. Again, place ball 1 on the
centre spot of the =Ｄ= marked 1′; play as before on P a free No. 2, and
it will arrive at a point about 2′.
And, lastly, place ball 1 on the left corner of the =Ｄ= marked 1″; play
No. 3 strength on P, and it will return to 2″ and have a chance of
cannoning on 3″. If these strokes are mastered they give a wide scope
for the disturbance of certainties left in baulk, for they can be played
from either end of cushion 1, and if balls 2 and 3 are missed, ball 1
has generally sufficient strength to carry it some distance up the
table.