A CONCERT AT THE CONCORDIA CLUB.
The traveller was naturally much impressed with the scene at the
Concordia Club. In the beautiful gardens, which were gorgeously
illuminated, people were walking about and sitting down as though it
were an English summer night. But, as in the East thoughts of health and
diet always occupy an extraordinarily prominent place in the minds of
all who have dwelt there for any length of time, that which chiefly
struck the stranger was the apparently reckless indifference to fever
displayed by those _flaneurs_ who dawdled about under the trees on this
treacherous soil, as though it were the harmless green grass of
Hurlingham at home. And it almost relieved him to hear presently from a
lady, to whom he expressed this astonishment, that the doctors declared
this season of open air concerts was certainly the most busy time for
colds and fever. The Resident and his party were seated at a round table
on the top of the flight of marble steps leading to the Club. To each
person of this group X. was presented in turn, after which he had the
honour of a seat on the right hand of his host and thus full opportunity
to enjoy the novelty of the surroundings and the excellent music of the
band. As the party gathered round the table included some of the
greatest names in the country, people who were in a position to have an
intimate knowledge of recent events, the conversation proved interesting
and instructive. Thus the Englishman heard the story of the Balineri
war--that terrible defeat and massacre of the Dutch troops under the
command of the general, who ultimately retrieved the position, and to do
honour to whom all were assembled to-night. X. listened as people spoke
of the unparalleled treachery of the natives, the sufferings of the
troops, and the assistance rendered to the enemy by the importation of
arms by a European. And severe remarks were made as to this latter
incident, some present insisting that the culprit was an Englishman from
Singapore. War was in the air--everyone talked of the war, and such an
impression did the matter make upon X., who heard the conduct of the
campaign discussed wherever he went, throughout his stay, that it may be
of interest to give in a separate chapter the story of what was said
about the recent war.
All those who joined the party on the terrace spoke English, to the
relief of X.--and as new guests arrived to join the circle they were
formally introduced by name to each one among the company in that
precise manner which is the fashion in America. And likewise when any
individual rose to leave he would bid good-night to each separate member
of the party.
When I undertook to compile this little account of how X. went to Java,
it had been my intention to arrange what he saw and what he heard in
some order of sequence, but from the nature of his manner of
observation, I find this to be impossible, and therefore must record
each impression he received and facts of interest which he heard, just
as they came to him, regardless of apparent want of connection. As the
chief object of this sketch is to assist others intending to spend a
short holiday in that beautiful island belonging to our neighbours, this
little originality may pass.
Thus on this occasion the traveller learnt that, contrary to his former
ideas on the matter, the Civil Service was much underpaid, and that,
though it corresponds with our Indian Civil Service in standard of
examination, etc., the scale of pay and of pensions falls far short of
its prototype. And it may be mentioned here, as showing what an
important part naval officers are expected to play in Dutch East India,
that all midshipmen have to pass in the Malay language. The command of
the squadron on the waters of Netherlands India is the prize of the
service, to the holding of which the most distinguished naval officers
look forward. The Governor General of the Dutch possessions in the East
is known as His Excellency during his term of office. The admiral who
commands there not only has the same title during the years of his
command, but is entitled to retain it for the remainder of his life. In
the course of conversation the Resident kindly informed X. that he must
not be annoyed at being obliged to obtain a permit to travel, since it
had been found necessary to insist that even his own countrymen should
do so, and he had recently caused notices to be issued and posted in all
the steamers and hotels, so that there might be no misunderstanding in
the matter. After the concert and the conclusion of a most agreeable
evening X. was introduced to the Harmonic Club, where he had supper.
This, like the Concordia, is a magnificent building with marble pillars
and floors, more in accordance with his early ideas of the gorgeous East
than anything which the traveller had seen. The Harmonic Club was built
during the time when Java was an English possession--and his informant,
the Englishman, sighed. It was not long before the new comer also
sighed, when, having seen the beauties of this glorious country, he
remembered that but for the blindness of some former rulers, unmindful
of the advice of those on the spot who should know, another India might
have been held for England. But as the natural beauty of the country was
enhanced and made complete by the sight of universal prosperity and
content, the sound of such a sigh from an English visitor is the
greatest compliment the present proprietors could be paid.
The first day of X.'s stay in Java was now over--a pleasant day enough,
as he admitted to himself, after a long seclusion in the jungle--the
place on which, after all, his last thoughts rested, that negatively
happy jungle and its kindly inhabitants--represented to his immediate
view by two inanimate bundles on the floor entrenched behind a barricade
of boxes in a corner of the room. These were the faithful Usoof and Abu,
long since gone to rest--forgetful of all the troubles of their first
day in a new country.