Chapter XIX.

The Wady Hamz--the Classical Ruin--Abá'l-Marú, the Mine of

"Marwah"--Return to El-Wijh--Résumé of the Southern Journey.

Before describing the Palace of Sa'íd the Brave, I must devote a

few lines to a notice of the Wady Hamz. The Wady Hamz, which has

been mentioned as the southern frontier of Egyptian Midian, and

the northern limit of the Ottoman Hejaz, is the most notable

feature of its kind upon the North-Western Arabian shore. Yet

Wallin has unjustifiably described and inscribed it "Wady Nejd,"

confusing it with a northern basin, whose mouth, the Salbah

(Thalbah), we passed before reaching Sharm Dumayghah. He appears

to identify it with the classical Wady el-Kura. Sprenger clean

ignores the name, although he mentions its branches; and of

course it is utterly neglected by the Hydrographic Chart. This

main approach to the Arabian interior is not a fissure, like the

vulgar Wadys, but rather an opening where the Gháts, or maritime

chain, break to the north and south. Distant one long or two

short marches from El-Wijh, its mouth is in north lat. 25° 55';

and it is said to head fifteen days inland, in fact beyond

El-Medínah, towards which it curves with a south-easterly bend.

It receives a multitude of important secondary valleys; amongst

which is the Wady el-‘Uwaynid, universally so pronounced. I

cannot help thinking that this is El-‘Aúníd of El-Mukaddasi,

which El-Idrísí (erroneously?) throws into the sea opposite

Nu'ma'n Island. If my conjecture prove true, we thus have a

reason why this important line has been inexplicably neglected.

Another branch is the Wady el-‘Is, Sprenger's "Al-‘Ys" (pp. 28,

29), which he calls "a valley in the Juhaynah country," and makes

the northern boundary of that tribe.

Ethnologically considered, the lower Wady Hamz is now the

southern boundary of the Balawíyyah (Baliyy country), and the

northern limit of the Jahaníyyah, or Juhaynah-land: the latter is

popularly described as stretching down coast to Wady Burmah, one

march beyond Yambú' (?). Higher up it belongs to the

Alaydán-‘Anezahs, under Shaykh Mutlak--these were the Bedawin

who, during our stay at the port, brought their caravan to

El-Wijh. Both tribes are unsafe, and they will wax worse as they

go south. Yet there is no difficulty in travelling up the Hamz,

at least for those who can afford time and money to engage the

escort of Shaykh Mutlak. A delay of twelve days to a fortnight

would be necessary, and common prudence would suggest the normal

precaution of detaining, as hostage in the seaboard settlement,

one of his Alaydán cousins. Water is to be found the whole way,

and the usual provisions are to be bought at certain places.

The following notes upon the ruins of the Wady Hamz were supplied

to me by the Baliyy Bedawin and the citizens of El-Wijh. Six

stages up the lower valley, whose direction lies nearly

north-east, lead to El-‘Ilá, Wallin's "Ela," which belongs to the

‘Anezah. Thence a short day, to the north with easting, places

the traveller at Madáin (not Madyan nor Medínat) Sálih--"the

cities of Sálih." The site is described to be somewhat off the

main valley, which is here broken by a Nakb (?); and those who

have visited both declared that it exactly resembles Nabathæan

Magháir Shu'ayb in extensive ruins and in catacombs caverning the

hill-sides.

Also called El-Hijr, it is made by Sprenger (p. 20) the capital

of Thamuditis. This province was the head-quarters of the giant

race termed the "Sons of Anak" (Joshua xi. 21); the Thamudeni and

Thamudæ of Agatharkides and Diodorus; the Tamudæi of Pliny; the

Thamyditæ of Ptolemy; and the Arabian Tamúd (Thamúd), who,

extinct before the origin of El-Islam, occupied the seaboard

between El-Muwaylah and El-Wijh. Their great centre was the plain

El-Badá; and they were destroyed by a terrible sound from heaven,

the Beth-Kol of the Hebrews, after sinfully slaughtering the

miraculously produced camel of El-Sálih, the Righteous Prophet

(Koran, cap. vii.). The exploration of "Sálih's cities" will be

valuable if it lead to the collection of inscriptions

sufficiently numerous to determine whether the Tamúd were

Edomites, or kin to the Edomites; also which of the two races is

the more ancient, the Horites of Idumæa or the Horites in

El-Hijr.

And now to inspect the Gasr. The first sensation was one of

surprise, of the mental state which gave rise to the Italian's--

"Dear Columns, what do you here?

‘Not knowing, can't say, Mynheer!'"

And this incongruous bit of Greece or Rome, in the Arabian wild,

kept its mystery to the last: the more we looked at it, the less

we could explain its presence. Not a line of inscription, not

even a mason's mark--all dark as the grave; deaf-dumb as "the

olden gods."

The site of the Gasr is in north lat. 25° 55' 15";[EN#70] and the

centre of the Libn block bears from it 339° (mag.). It stands

upon the very edge of its Wady's left bank, a clifflet some

twenty-five feet high, sloping inland with the usual dark metal

disposed upon loose yellow sand. Thus it commands a glorious view

of the tree-grown valley, or rather valleys, beneath it; and of

the picturesque peaks of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah in the

background. The distance from the sea is now a little over three

miles--in ancient days it may have been much less.

The condition of the digging proves that the remains have not

long been opened: the Baliyy state less than half a century ago;

but exactly when or by whom is apparently unknown to them. Before

that time the locale must have shown a mere tumulus, a mound

somewhat larger than the many which pimple the raised valley-bank

behind the building. A wall is said to have projected above

ground, as at Uriconium near the Wrekin.[EN#71] This may have

suggested excavation, besides supplying material for the Bedawi

cemetery to the south-west. The torrent waters have swept away

the whole of the northern wall, and the treasure-seeker has left

his mark upon the interior. Columns and pilasters and bevelled

stones have been hurled into the Wady below; the large

pavement-slabs have been torn up and tossed about to a chaos; and

the restless drifting of the loose yellow Desert-sand will soon

bury it again in oblivion. The result of all such ruthless

ruining was simply null. The imaginative Nájí declared, it is

true, that a stone dog had been found; but this animal went the

way of the "iron fish," which all at El-Muwaylah asserted to have

been dug up at El-Wijh--the latter place never having heard of

it. Wallin (p. 316) was also told of a black dog which haunts the

ruins of Karáyyá, and acts guardian to its hidden treasures.

Years ago, when I visited the mouth of the Volta river on the

Gold Coast, the negroes of Cape Coast Castle were pleased to

report that I had unearthed a silver dog, at whose appearance my

companion, Colonel de Ruvignes, and myself fell dead. But why

always a dog? The "Palace" is a Roman building of pure style;

whether temple or nymphæum, we had no means of ascertaining. The

material is the Rughám or alabaster supplied by the Secondary

formation; and this, as we saw, readily crumbles to a white

powder when burnt. The people, who in such matters may be

trusted, declare that the quarries are still open at Abú

Makhárír, under the hills embosoming Abá'l-Marú. We should have

been less surprised had the ruin been built of marble, which

might have been transported from Egypt; but this careful and

classical treatment of the common country stone, only added to

the marvel.

It must have been a bright and brilliant bit of colouring in its

best days--hence, possibly, the local tradition that the stone

sweats oil. The whole building, from the pavement to the coping,

notched to receive the roof-joists, is of alabaster, plain-white

and streaked with ruddy, mauve, and dark bands, whose mottling

gives the effect of marble. Perhaps in places the gypsum has been

subjected to plutonic action; and we thought that the coloured

was preferred to the clear for the bases of the columns. The

exposed foundations of the eastern and western walls, where the

torrent has washed away the northern enceinte, show that, after

the fashion of ancient Egypt, sandstone slabs have been laid

underground, the calcaire being reserved for the hypaethral part.

The admirable hydraulic cement is here and there made to take the

place of broken corners, and flaws have been remedied by

carefully letting in small cubes of sound stone. There are also

cramp-holes for metal which, of course, has been carried off by

the Bedawin: the rusty stains suggest iron.

The building is square-shaped, as we see from the western wall,

and it evidently faced eastward with 25° (mag.) of southing. This

orientation, probably borrowed from the Jews, was not thoroughly

adopted in Christendom till the early fifth century, when it

became a mos. The southern wall, whose basement is perfect, shows

everywhere a thickness of 0.95 centimetre, and a total length of

8 metres 30 centimetres. At 2 metres 87 centimetres from the

south-western corner is a slightly raised surface, measuring in

length 2 metres 15 centimetres. Mr. James Fergusson supposes that

this projection, which directly fronts the eastern entrance, was

the base of the niche intended for the image. On each side of the

latter might have been a smaller colonette, which would account

for the capital carried off by us to Egypt. Thus, adding 2 metres

87 centimetres for the northern end swept into the valley, we

have a length of 7 metres 89 centimetres; and the additional half

thickness of the east wall would bring it to a total of 8 metres

30 centimetres.

The shrine was not in antis, and the site hardly admits of a

peristyle; besides which, excavations failed to find it. That it

might have had a small external atrium is made probable by the

peculiarity of the entrance. Two rounded pilasters, worked with

the usual care inside, but left rough in other parts because they

could not be seen, were engaged in the enceinte wall, measuring

here, as elsewhere, 0.95 centimetre in thickness. Nothing

remained of them but their bases, whose lower diameters were 0.95

centimetre, and the upper 0.65; the drums found elsewhere also

measured 0.65. The interval between the lowest rings was 1 metre

63 centimetres; and this would give the measure of the doorway,

here probably a parallelogram. Lying on the sand-slope to the

north, a single capital showed signs of double brackets, although

both have been broken off:[EN#72] the maximum diameter across the

top was 0.60 centimetre, diminishing below to 0.50 and 0.44,

whilst the height was 0.40. The encircling wall was probably

adorned with pilasters measuring 0.62 centimetre below, 0.45

above, and 0.11 in height: they are not shown in the plan; and I

leave experts to determine whether they supported the inside or

the outside surface. Several stones, probably copings, are cut

with three mortice-joints or joist-holes, each measuring 0.15

centimetre, at intervals of 0.14 to 0.15.

In the tossed and tumbled interior of this maison carrée the

pavement-slabs, especially along the south-western side, appear

in tolerable order and not much disturbed; whilst further east a

long trench from north to south had been sunk by the treasure

seeker. The breadth of the free passage is 1 metre 92

centimetres; and the disposal suggested an inner peristyle,

forming an impluvium. Thus the cube could not have been a heroön

or tomb. Four bases of columns, with a number of drums, lie in

the heap of ruins, and in the torrent-bed six, of which we

carried off four. They are much smaller than the pilasters of the

entrance; the lower tori of the bases measure 0.60 centimetre in

diameter, and 0.20 in height (to 0.90 and 0.25), while the drums

are 0.45, instead of 0.65. It is an enormous apparatus to support

what must have been a very light matter of a roof. The only

specimen of a colonette-capital has an upper diameter of 0.26, a

lower of 0.17, and a height of 0.16.

Although the Meccan Ka'bah is, as its name denotes, a "cube,"

this square alabaster box did not give the impression of being

either Arab or Nabathæan. The work is far too curiously and

conscientiously done; the bases and drums, as the sundries

carried to Cairo prove, look rather as if turned by machinery

than chiselled in the usual way. I could not but conjecture that

it belongs to the days of such Roman invasions as that of Ælius

Gallus. Strabo[EN#73] tells us of his unfortunate friend and

companion, that, on the return march, after destroying

Negrán[EN#74] (Pliny, vi. 32), he arrived at Egra or Hegra

(El-‘Wijh), where he must have delayed some time before he could

embark "as much of his army as could be saved," for the opposite

African harbour, Myus Hormus. It is within the limits of

probability that this historical personage[EN#75] might have

built the Gasr, either for a shrine or for a nymphæum, a

votive-offering to the Great Wady, which must have cheered his

heart after so many days of "Desert country, with only a few

watering-places." Perhaps an investigation of the ruins at Ras

Kurkumah and the remains of Madáin Sálih may throw some light

upon the mystery. In our travel this bit of classical temple was

unique.

Mr. Fergusson, whose authority in such matters will not readily

be disputed, calls the building a small shrine; and determines

that it can hardly be a tomb, as it is hypæthral. The only

similar temple known to him is that of "Soueideh" (Suwaydah), in

the Haurán (De Vogüé, "Syrie Centrale," Plate IV.). The latter,

which is Roman, and belonging to the days of Herod Augustus, has

a peristyle here wanting: in other respects the resemblance is

striking.

M. Lacaze photographed, under difficulties such as bad water and

a most unpleasant drift of sand-dust, the interior of the

building, the stones lying in the Wady below, and the various

specimens which we carried off for the inspection of his Highness

the Viceroy. Meanwhile we "pottered about," making small

discoveries. The exposed foundations of the north-western wall,

where the slabs of grit rest upon the sands of the cliff,

afforded signs of man in the shape of a jaw-bone, with teeth

apparently modern; and above it, in the terreplein, we dug down

upwards of a yard, without any result beyond unearthing a fine

black scorpion. The adjoining Arab graveyard, adorned with the

mutilated spoils of the classical building, gave two imperfect

skulls and four fragments. We opened one of the many mounds that

lie behind the Gasr, showing where most probably stood the ruined

town; and we found the interior traversed by a crumbling wall of

cut alabaster--regular excavation may some day yield important

results. A little to the south-west lies a kind of ossuary, a

tumulus slightly raised above the wavy level, and showing a

central pit choked with camels' bones: at least, we could find no

other.

And here I was told the Arab legend by the Wakíl; who, openly

deriding the Bedawi idea that the building could be a "Castle,"

opined that it was a Kanísah, a "Christian or pagan place of

worship." Gurayyim Sa'íd, "Sa'íd the Brave," was an African

slave, belonging to an Arab Shaykh whose name is forgotten. One

day it so happened that a razzia came to plunder his lord, when

the black, whose strength and stature were equal to his courage

and, let us add, his appetite, did more than his duty. Thus he

obtained as a reward the promise of a bride, his master's

daughter. But when the day of danger was past, and the slave

applied for the fair guerdon, the Shaykh traitorously refused to

keep his word. The Brave, finding a fit opportunity, naturally

enough carried off the girl to the mountains; solemnly thrashed

every pursuing party; and, having established a "reign of

terror," came to the banks of the Wady Hamz, and built the

"Palace" for himself and his wife. But his love for

butcher's-meat did not allow him to live happily ever after. As

the land yielded little game, he took to sallying out every day

and carrying off a camel, which in the evening he slew, and

roasted, and ate, giving a small bit of it to his spouse. This

extravagance of flesh-diet ended by scandalizing the whole

country-side, till at last the owner of the plundered herds,

Diyáb ibn Ghánim, one of the notables celebrated in the romance

called Sírat Abu' Zayd,[EN#76] assembled his merry men, attacked

the Gurayyim, and slew him. Wa' s' salám!

Here Egypt ends. We have done our work--

"And now the hills stretch home."

I must, however, beg the reader to tarry with me awhile. The next

march to the north will show him what I verily believe to be the

old gold-mine lying around El-Marwah. It acquires an especial

interest from being the northernmost known to the mediaeval

geographers.

El-Mukaddasi (vol. I. p. 101), in an article kindly copied by my

friend, the Aulic Councillor, Alfred Von Kremer, says, "Between

Yambú' and El-Marwah are mines of gold;" adding ("Itinerary,"

vol. i. p. 107) the following route directions: "And thou takest

from El-Badr (‘the New Moon')[EN#77] to El-Yambú' two stages;

thence to the Ras el-‘Ayn (?),[EN#78] one stage; again to the

mine (subaudi, of gold), one stage; and, lastly, to El-Marwah,

two stages. And thou takest from El-Badr to El-Jár[EN#79] one

stage; thence to El-Jahfah (?), or to El-Yambu', two stages each.

And thou takest from El-Jiddah (Jedda) to El-Jár, or to

El-Surrayn (?), four stages each. And thou takest from El-Yasrib

(Jatrippa or El-Medínah) to El-Suwaydíyyah (?), or to Batn

el-Nakhil (?), two stages each; and from El-Suwaydíyyah to

El-Marwah, an equal distance (i.e. four marches); and from the

Batn el-Nakhil to the mine of silver, a similar distance. And if

thou seek the Jáddat Misr,[EN#80] then take from El-Marwah to

El-Sukyá[EN#81] (?), and thence to Badá Ya'kúb,[EN#82] three

marches; and thence to El-‘Aúníd, one march." Hence Sprenger

would place Zú'l-Marwah "four days from El-Hijr, on the western

road to Medina;" alluding to the western (Syrian) road, now

abandoned.

And now for our march. On the finest possible morning (April

9th), when the world was all ablaze with living light, I walked

down the Wady Hamz. It has been abundantly supplied with water;

in fact, the whole vein (thalweg) subtending the left bank would

respond to tapping. The well El-Kusayr, just below the ruin,

though at present closed, yielded till lately a large quantity:

about half a mile to the westward is, or rather was, a saltish

pit surrounded by four sweet. Almost all are now dry and filled

up with fuel. A sharp trudge of three-quarters of an hour leads

to the Bir el-Gurnah (Kurnah), the "Well of the Broad," in a

district of the same name, lying between the ruin and the shore.

It is a great gash in the sandy bed: the taste of the turbid

produce is distinctly sulphurous; and my old white mule, being

dainty in her drink, steadfastly refused to touch it. The

distinct accents of the Red Sea told us that we were not more

than a mile from its marge.

We then struck north-east, over the salt maritime plain, till we

hit the lower course of the Wady Umm Gilifayn (Jilifayn). It

heads from the seaward base of the neighbouring hills; and its

mouth forms a Marsá, or "anchorage-place," for native craft. A

little to the north stands the small pyramidal Tuwayyil

el-Kibrít, the "little Sulphur Hill," which had been carefully

examined by MM. Marie and Philipin. A slow ride of eight miles

placed us in a safe gorge draining a dull-looking, unpromising

block. Here we at once found, and found in situ for the first

time, the chalcedony which strews the seaboard-flat. This agate,

of which amulets and signet-rings were and are still made, and

which takes many varieties of tints, lies in veins mostly

striking east-west; and varying in thickness from an inch to

several feet. The sequence is grey granite below, the band of

chalcedony, and above it a curious schistose gneiss-formation.

The latter, composing the greater part of these hills, is striped

dark-brown and yellow; and in places it looks exactly like rotten

wood. The small specimens of chalcedony in my private collection

were examined at Trieste, and one of them contained dendritic

gold, visible to the naked eye. Unfortunately the engineer had

neglected this most important rock, and only a few ounces of it,

instead of as many tons, were brought back for analysis.

A short and easy ascent led to a little counter-slope, the Majrá

Mujayrah (Mukayrah), whose whitening sides spoke of quartz. We

rode down towards a granite island where the bed mouths into the

broad Wady Mismáh, a feeder of the Wady ‘Argah. Here, after some

ten miles, the guide, Na'ji', who thus far had been very misty in

the matter of direction, suddenly halted and, in his showman

style, pointed to the left bank of the watercourse, exclaiming,

"Behold Abá'l-Marú!" (the "Father of Quartz"). It was another

surprise, and our last, this snowy reef with jagged crest, at

least 500 metres long, forming the finest display of an exposed

filon we had as yet seen; but--the first glance told us that it

had been worked.

We gave the rest of the day to studying and blasting the

quartz-wall. It proved to be the normal vein in grey granite,

running south-north and gradually falling towards the

valley-plain. Here a small white outlier disappears below the

surface, rising again in filets upon the further side. The dip is

easterly: in this direction a huge strew of ore-mass and rubbish

covers the slope which serves as base to the perpendicular reef.

The Negro quartz, which must have formed half the thickness, had

been carried bodily away. If anything be left for the moderns it

is hidden underground: the stone, blasted in the little outlier,

looked barren. Not the least curious part of this outcrop is the

black thread of iron silicate which, broken in places, subtends

it to the east: some specimens have geodes yielding brown powder,

and venal cavities lined with botryoidal quartz of amethystine

tinge. In other parts of the same hills we found, running along

the "Mará," single and double lines of this material, which

looked uncommonly like slag.

The open Wady Mismáh showed, to the east of our camp, the ruins

of a large settlement which has extended right across the bed: as

the guides seemed to ignore its existence, we named it the

Kharábat Abá'l-Marú. Some of the buildings had been on a large

scale, and one square measured twenty yards. Here the peculiarity

was the careful mining of a granitic hillock on the southern

bank. The whole vein of Negro quartz had been cut out of three

sides, leaving caves that simulated catacombs. Further west

another excavation in the same kind of rock was probably the

town-quarry. The two lieutenants were directed next morning to

survey this place, and also a second ruin and reef reported to be

found on the left bank, a little below camp.

We have now seen, lying within short distances, three several

quartz-fields, known as--Marwah, "the single Place or Hill of

Maú'" (quartz); Marwát, "the Places of Quartz;" and Abá'l-Marú,

the "Father of Quartz;" not to speak of a Nakb Abú Marwah[EN#83]

further north. The conclusion forced itself upon me that the name

of the celebrated Arab mine Zú'l Marwah or El-Marwah, the more

ancient <Greek> (Mochura), which Ptolemy places in north

lat. 24° 30', applied to the whole district in South Midian, and

then came to denote the chief place and centre of work. To judge

by the extent of the ruins, and the signs of labour, this focus

was at Umm el-Karáyát (the "Mother of the Villages"), which, as

has been shown, is surrounded by a multitude of miner-towns and

ateliers. And the produce of the "diggings" would naturally

gravitate to El-Badá, the great commercial station upon the

Nabathæan "Overland."

Thus El-Marwah would signify "the Place of Marú," or

"Quartz-land," even as Ophir means "Red Land." A reviewer of my

first book on Midian objects to the latter derivation; as

Seetzen, among others, has conclusively shown that Ophir, the

true translation of which is ‘riches,' is to be looked for in

Southern Arabia." Connu! But I question the "true translation;"

and, whilst owning that one of the Ophirs or "Red Lands" lay in

the modern Yemen, somewhere between Sheba (Sabá) and Havilah

(Khaulán), I see no reason for concluding that this was the only

Ophir. Had it been a single large emporium on the Red Sea, which

collected the produce of Arabia and the exports of India and of

West Africa, the traditional site could hardly have escaped the

notice of the inquiring Arabian geographers of our Middle Ages.

The ruins of a port would have been found, and we should not be

compelled theoretically to postulate its existence.

* * * * * *

And now nothing remained but to escape as quickly as possible

from the ugly Wady Mismáh; with its violent, dusty wester, or

sea-breeze, and its sun-glare which, reflected and reverberated

by the quartz, burned the grass and made the trees resemble

standing timber.

April 10th saw the last of our marches, a hurry back to the

stable, a sauve qui peut. The camel-men, reckless of orders,

began to load and to slip away shortly after midnight. Ali Marie,

who, as usual, had lost his head, when ordered to enjoin silence

gave the vain and vague direction, "Tell the Arabs to tell the

camels not to make so much noise." Even the bugler sounded the

"general" of his own accord; and the mules, now become painfully

intelligent, walked as if they knew themselves to be walking

homewards. Our last stage lay over the upper skirts of the

maritime plain which has already been noticed. At 10.15 am.,

after riding five hours and thirty minutes (= seventeen miles),

we found ourselves once more upon the seaboard. Our kind host,

Captain Hasan Bey, came to meet us in his gig: the quarter-deck

had been dressed with flags, as for a ball; and before twelve

bells struck, we had applied ourselves to an excellent breakfast

in the gun-room of our old favourite, the Sinnár. The auspicious

day of course ended with a fantasia.

Résumé of Our Last Journey.

We had left the Sharm Yáhárr on March 21st, and returned to it on

April 13th; a total of twenty-four days. Our actual march through

South Midian, which had lasted thirteen days (March 29--April

10), described a semicircle with El-Wijh about the middle of the

chord. The length is represented by 170 miles in round numbers:

as usual, this does not include the various offsets and the

by-paths explored by the members; nor do the voyages to El-Wijh

and El-Haurá, going and coming, figure in the line of route. The

camels varied from fifty-eight to sixty-four, when specimens were

forwarded to the harbour-town. The expenditure amounted to£92

13s., including pay and "bakhshísh" to the Baliyy Shaykhs, but

not including our friends the Sayyid, Furayj, and the Wakíl

Mohammed Shahádah.

This southern region differs essentially from the northern, which

was twice visited, and which occupied us two months, mostly

wasted. Had we known what we do now, I should have begun with the

south, and should have devoted to it the greater part of our

time. Both are essentially mining countries; but, whilst the

section near Egypt preserves few traces of the miner, here we

find the country carefully and conscientiously worked. The whole

eastern counterslope of the outliers that project from the

Ghát-section known as the mountains of the Tihámat-Balawíyyah, is

one vast outcrop of quartz. The parallelogram between north lat.

26 degrees, including the mouth of the Wady Hamz, and north lat.

27°, which runs some fifteen miles north of the Badá plain, would

form a Southern Grant, sufficiently large to be divided and

subdivided as soon as judged advisable.

If the characteristics of North Midian (Madyan Proper) are its

argentiferous, and especially its cupriferous ores, South Midian

worked chiefly gold and silver, both metals being mentioned by

the mediaeval geographers of Arabia. Free gold in paillettes was

noticed by the Expedition in the micaceous schists veining the

quartz, and in the chalcedony which parts the granite from the

gneiss. The argentiferous Negro quartz everywhere abounds, and

near the ruins of Badá lie strews of spalled "Marú," each

fragment showing its little block of pure lead. Saltpetre is

plentiful, and a third "Sulphur hill" rises from the maritime

plain north of the Wady Hamz.

The principal ruins and ateliers number five; these, beginning

from the north, are the Umm el-Karáyát, the Umm el-Haráb, the

Bújat-Badá, the Kharábat Abá'l-Marú, and the old Nabathean port,

E1-Haurá. Amongst them is not included the gem of our discovery,

the classical shrine, known as Gasr Gurayyim Sa'íd, nor the minor

ateliers, El-Kubbah, Abá'l-Gezáz, and the remains upon the Marwát

ridge. Good work was done by the Egyptian Staff-officers in

surveying the fine harbour of El-Dumayghah, so well fitted as a

refuge for pilgrim-ships when doing quarantine; and I venture

upon recommending, to the English and Egyptian Governments, my

remarks concerning the advisability of at once re-transferring

the station to El-Wijh. It is now at Tor; and, as has been said,

it forms a standing menace, not only to the Nile Valley, but to

the whole of Europe.

Whilst abounding in wood, the Southern Country is not so well

watered as are Central and Northern Midian On the other hand, the

tenants, confined to the Baliyy tribe, with a few scatters of the

despised Hutaym, are milder and more tractable than the Huwaytát.

As I have remarked, they are of ancient strain, and they still

conserve the instincts of their predecessors, or their

forefathers, the old mining race. It will be necessary to defend

them against the raids and incursions of the Juhaynah, or "Sons

of Dogs," who border upon them to the south, and from the

Alaydán-‘Anezah to the south-east; but nothing would be easier

than to come to terms with the respective Shaykhs. And the sooner

we explore the Jaww, or sandstone region in the interior, with

its adjacent "Harrahs," the better for geography and, perhaps not

less, for mineralogy. The great ruins of Madáin Sálih upon the

Wady Hamz still, I repeat, await the discoverer.

Conclusion.

The next day saw us at El-Wijh, dispensing pay and "bakhshísh" to

the companions of our Desert march; and shipping the men and

mules, with the material collected during the southern journey.

The venerable Shaykh ‘Afnán and his Baliyy were not difficult to

deal with; and they went their way homewards fully satisfied. We

exchanged a friendly adieu, or rather an au revoir, with our

excellent travelling companion, Mohammed Shahádah; and I

expressed my sincere hopes to find him, at no distant time,

governor of the restored Quarantine-station.

On the morning of April 12th we set out betimes, and anchored for

the night in one of the snug bays of Jebel Nu'man. The next day

placed us at the Sharm Yáhárr, where the process of general

distribution happily ended. Here the final parting took place

with the gallant companions of our four months' travel. Shaykh

Furayj, delighted with the gift, in addition to his pay, of a

Styrian skean-dhu and an Austrian Werndl-carbine, at once set off

to rejoin the tribe up-country; while the Sayyid steadfastly

stayed with us to the last. These men had become our friends; and

my sorrow at leaving them was softened only by the prospect of

presently seeing them again.

Immediately after my return to Cairo I strongly recommended the

Sayyid for promotion, in these words:--"First and foremost is the

Sayyid ‘Abd el-Rahím, the head of a noble family, settled for

generations at El-Muwayláh, where he is now Kátib (‘accountant')

to the Fort. He knows thoroughly the whole Land of Midian; he is

loved and respected by all the Arabs, and both he and his are

devoted to the Government of your Highness. Evidently it would be

advantageous to promote such a man to the post of governor of the

place--a post which will presently become of high importance, and

which is actually held by an old officer, almost bed-ridden.

"The second is Shaykh Mohammed Shahádah, of El-Wijh, a man of

family and position; known far and wide, and made generally

popular by his generous and charitable actions. He was formerly

Wakíl, or ‘agent,' to the Fort el-Wijh, until that office was

abolished. The port will presently have its custom-house; and I

propose forwarding to her Britannic Majesty's Government my notes

upon the subject of the Quarantine-station, which has imprudently

been transferred from Arabia to Tor, in the Sinaitic Peninsula.

Meanwhile it would, I venture to suggest, be most advantageous if

Mohammed Shahádah were named governor of his native place."

The Expedition, in its urgent desire to return northwards, was

not seconded by weather. Despite an ugly gale, the Sinnár boldly

attempted giving the slip to Arabia on April 16th, but she was

beaten back before she reached El-Muwaylah. After another stormy

day, we again got up steam; and, fighting hard against adverse

winds and waves, greatly to the distress of the unfortunate mules

and gazelles, we reached Suez on April 20th.

At Suez my wife had been awaiting me for long weeks, preferring

the simplicity of the Desert to the complex life of Cairo. Some

delay was again necessary in order to telegraph our arrival, to

apply for a special train, and to sort and pack in the

travelling-cases our twenty-five tons of specimens. As often

happens, the return to civilization was in nowise cheery.

Everything seemed to go wrong. For instance, the Dragoman

despatched to town from the New Docks in order to lay in certain

comforts, such as beef and beer, prudently laid out the coin in a

brand-new travelling suit intended for his own service. Such an

apology for a dinner had not been seen during the last four

months of wild travel--unpleasant when guests have been bidden to

a feast! The night at the Docks, also, was a trifle mortuary,

over-silent and tranquil: all hands, officers and men, who could

not get leave to sleep ashore, simply took leave--I believe

myself to have been for a time both captain and crew of the

Sinnár. And, lastly, we heard that both our dog-companions, Juno

and Páijí, had died of some canine epidemic.

The next day ended our halt at Suez, with visits to slop-shops

and a general discussion of choppes. The old hotel, under the

charge of Mr. and Mrs. Adams, had greatly improved by the

"elimination" of the offensive Hindi element; and my old friends

of a quarter-century's standing received me with all their wonted

heartiness. Sa'íd Bey was still a Bey, but none the less jovial

and genial; Captain Ali Bey, who had commanded the Sinnár, was

now acting commodore; and my only regret was having again missed

Colonel Gordon (Pasha).

April 22nd convinced us that, even in these prosaic regions, our

misadventures and accidents had not reached their fated end. A

special train had been organized by Hanafi Effendi for eight a.m.

About ten miles from Suez one of the third-class carriages began

"running hot;" and, before we could dismount, the axle-box of a

truck became a young Vesuvius in the matter of vomiting smoke. I

ordered the driver, who was driving furiously, to make half

speed; but even with this precaution there were sundry stoppages;

and at the Naffíshah station, where my Bolognese acquaintances

still throve, we could not be supplied with a change of

"rolling-stock." About Tell el-Kabír, the brake-van also waxed

unsafely warm; but it reached Zagázig without developing more

caloric. Briefly, we caught fire three times in one morning.

These accidents must always be expected, where spare carriages

are placed for months upon sidings to become tinder in the sun;

and where the cracks and crevices of the woodwork fill up with

the silicious sand of the Desert, an admirable succedaneum for

flint and steel. One consolation, however, remained to us: the

Dragoman, brand-new clothes and all, was left behind at Suez. His

last chef d'œuvre of blundering has already been

noticed[EN#84]--the barrel of Midianitish oysters sent to Admiral

M'Killop (Pasha) had been so carelessly headed up, and so

carefully turned topsy-turvy, that the result was, to use my

friend's words, they could be nosed from the half-way station.

The "Kyrios" had probably passed a Bacchanalian night with his

Hellenic friends, and he subsequently made act of presence at

Cairo with a very British-looking black eye. His accident at Suez

was a bit of "poetical justice," which almost convinced one of

the "moral government."

A succulent breakfast à la fourchette, in the charming garden of

our friend M. Vetter, of Zagázig, duly discussed, we again went

"on board," amusing the lookers-on by our naive enjoyment of the

Nile-valley: they had not been in Arabia, and they found the

"emerald-green" dusty and yellow. We reached Cairo at 5.30 p.m.

More troubles! Ten minutes after arrival we found ourselves in

possession, in sole charge of the gare. The train was loaded with

Government property, officers, soldiers and escort, mules, boxes

and bags of specimens whose collecting had cost money. Yet

station-master, agent, and employés at once went their ways,

declining even to show the room allotted to our goods, although a

telegram from the railway authorities had advised me that one had

been made ready. The assistant-agent, when at last hunted up,

declared, before vanishing once more, that the porters for whom

we applied were busy loading cotton, and that we must e'en do the

best we could for ourselves. So the waggons were shunted and

unloaded by their tenants, and the minerals were deposited under

a kind of shed whose key was not forthcoming. We failed to find

even a light, till the local train from Suez was announced; and,

when it began whistling, the officials, who had returned like

rats from their holes, gave us peremptory directions to shunt

again. This time, however, I had the game in my hands; and

replied by taking due precautions against being turned out.

At first the soldier-escort worked as well as could be expected;

but the numbers fell off every quarter of an hour, till we were

left with a very select party; the only recipients, by-the-by, of

"bakhshísh." The Sub-Lieutenant Mohammed Effendi mounted a donkey

the moment he stepped out of the R.R. carriage; and, utterly

disregarding so vexatious a frivolity as asking leave, rode off

to his home at Torah. His example was followed by the Sergeant

Mabrúk ‘Awaz. And yet both these men had the impudence to call

upon me at the hotel, and to apply for especial Shahádahs, or

"testimonials" of good conduct. In short, we were detained at the

station for three mortal hours, working with our own hands. If

this be a fair specimen of European management in Egypt, and I am

told that it has now become worse, much worse in every way, the

sooner we return to Egyptian mismanagement the better. The latter

is, at any rate, cheap and civil.

On the next day the Viceroy graciously sent his junior Master of

Ceremonies, his Excellency Tonino Bey, to welcome me back; and I

was at once honoured with audiences at the Khedivial Palace,

‘Abidin, and by Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha at Gizah (Jízah). The

Khediv was pleased to express satisfaction with my past

exertions, and ordered several measures to be carried out at

once. Amongst them was a little exhibition of mineralogy and

archaeology, maps and plans, sketches and croquis, at the

Hippodrome.

I need hardly say that his Highness at once saw the gist of the

matter. Many concessions had been applied for, even from

Australia; but the Viceroy determined that, before any could be

granted, careful analyses of the specimens must be made, at his

Highness's private expense, in London. M. Ferdinand de Lesseps,

of world-wide fame, volunteered, in the most friendly way, to

submit échantillons of the rocks to the Parisian Académie des

Sciences, of which he is a distinguished member. The Viceroy was

also pleased spontaneously to remind me of, and to renew, the

verbal promise made upon my return from the first Expedition to

Midian; namely, that I should be honoured with a concession, or

that a royalty of five per cent. on the general produce of the

mines should be the reward of discovery. The young Minister of

Finance, Prince Husayn Kámil Pasha, after courteously

congratulating me upon the successful result of our labours, put

as usual the most pertinent of questions.

The opening of our little Exposition was delayed by sundry

difficulties. The Greek Easter set in with its usual severity

about later April. A general shop-shutting, a carouse unlimited,

catholic, universal; and, despite stringent police orders, a

bombardment of the town by squibs and crackers, were the

principal features of the fête. The 29th was the classical Shamm

el-Nasin, or "the Smelling of the Zephyr," a local May-day

religiously kept with utter idleness. Mr. W. E. Hayns and I

utilized it by going a flint-hunting on the left bank of the

Nile.[EN#85] Then the terrible "May coupon" gave immense trouble

and annoyance to the rulers; who, so far from making merry with

the lieges, had to work in person between five a.m. and midnight.

After such exertion as this, rest was of course necessary.

Subsequently, a grand review monopolized one day; another was

spent by the Court in despatching the young Prince Fu'ád to

Switzerland; and yet another was given to his Highness the Prince

Hasan Pasha, Commander-in-Chief of the Egyptian auxiliaries, who,

on the conclusion of the war, had returned to Cairo en route for

Europe.

Briefly, it was not before May 9th that the Khediv, accompanied

by the Prince héritier, Taufík Pasha, found leisure personally to

open the Exhibition--the first, by-the-by, ever honoured with the

Viceregal presence. Despite all my efforts, the rooms, which

should have been kept clear till his Highness had passed through,

were crowded at an early hour. The maps prepared at the Citadel

by Lieutenants Amir and Yusuf, with the aid of three extra hands,

were very imperfect, half finished at the last moment, and

abounding in such atrocities as "Ouorh" for "El-Wijh." The

engineer, M. Marie, when asked aloud, and with all publicity, by

the Khediv whether he was sure that such and such specimens

contained gold, shirked a direct reply, evasively declaring that

"Midian is a fine mining country." He had pointed out to me the

precious metal during our exploration of Umm el-Karáyat; but such

is the wretched result of "knowing the people," instead of

telling the truth like a man. And one of the many jealous, a mild

Mephisto., whispered in the Viceregal ear, "There can't be much

gold there, or ces messieurs would have said more about it."

Despite these small contretemps the Exhibition[EN#86] was

pronounced a success, and served, as such things do, for a nine

days' wonder. Several travellers from England and Australia took

the opportunity of inspecting the rocks; and I was much

encouraged to find the general opinion so highly favourable.

Locally there were dissidents, but this must be expected where

interests differ.

Meanwhile his Highness kept me hard at work. I was directed to

draw up a concise general description of the province; to report

upon the political and other measures by which the Midian country

would be benefited; and, lastly, to suggest the means which, in

my humble opinion, were best calculated for successfully working

the mines. In former days the Viceroy would at once have

undertaken the task, and probably would have sent down five

thousand men to open the diggings. Now, however, the endless

trickery of European adventurers and speculators has made a wise

precaution absolutely necessary. During the last audience, his

Highness ably and lucidly resumed the history of the past

measures, and the steps which he proposed for the future. The

first Khedivial Expedition had been simply one of exploration,

sent to ascertain whether the precious metals really existed. The

second was intrusted with the charge of laying down the probable

limits of the mining formation; and of bringing back varied

specimens, in quantities sufficient for scientific analysis. The

third and next step would be to organize a Compagnie de

Recherche, with the object of beginning a serious exploitation.

The future thus settled, I was kindly and courteously dismissed,

with a desire that I should take charge of the specimens, and

personally superintend the work of assaying. Mr. Charles Clarke

received pay and leave for three months, and was ordered to

convey the boxes by "long sea."

On May 10th we left Cairo in company with our friend Mr. Garwood,

C.E. At Alexandria a great repose fell upon my spirit; it was

like gliding into a smooth port after a storm at sea. All the

petty troubles and worries of Cairo; the cancans, the intrigues,

the silly reports of the envious and the jealous, with the buzz

and sting of mosquitoes; the weary waiting; the visits of

"friends" whose main object in life seemed to be tuer le ver; and

the exigencies of my late fellow-travellers, who, after liberal

pay and free living for four months, seemed determined to quarter

themselves upon the Egyptian Government for the rest of their

natural lives;--all these small cares, not the less annoying

because they were small, disappeared like magic at the first

glimpse of blue water. I had barely time to pass an afternoon at

Ramleh, "the Sand-heap," with an intimate of twenty-five years'

standing, Hartley John Gisborne, an old servant of the Egyptian

"Crown," for whom new men and new measures have, I regret to see,

made the valley of the Nile no longer habitable.

The next Sunday placed us on board the Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's

screw-steamer Austria (Capitano Rossol). As usual, the commander

and officers did all they could to make their voyagers

comfortable; the Company did the contrary. At this spring season,

true, the migratory host of unfeathered bipeds crowds northwards;

even as in autumn it accompanies the birds southwards. But when

berths are full, passengers should be refused; and if the

commercial director prefers dead to live goods, travellers should

be duly warned. The accommodation would have been tolerable in a

second-class or third-class English steamer, which charges

fifteen shillings to a sovereign per diem; here, however, we were

paying between £2 and £3.

The Alexandrian agent had been asked to lodge us decently. My

wife found herself in a cabin occupied by two nurses. I was

placed in a manner of omnibus, a loose box for six, of whom one

was an Armenian and two were Circassians from Daghistán--good men

enough, but not pleasant as bedroom fellows. No extra service had

been engaged for an extra cargo of seventy-two; that is,

forty-two first, and thirty second class. There were only three

stewards, including the stewardess; and the sick were left to

serve themselves. At least half a dozen were required; and, in

such places as Trieste and Alexandria, a large staff of cooks and

waiters can always be engaged in a few hours. On board any

English ship some of the smartest and handiest seamen would have

been converted into temporary attendants--here no one seemed to

think of a proceeding so far out of the usual way. There was only

one, instead of three or four cooks; and the unfortunate had to

fill a total of one hundred and thirty-five mouths, the crew

included, three times a day. The other tenant of the close and

wretched little galley lay sick with spotted typhus; and, after

barbarous neglect, he died on the day following our arrival at

Trieste--I did not hear that the surgeon of the screw-steamer

Austria had met with his deserts by summary dismissal from the

service. The Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's was once famed for good

living; over-economy and high dividends have now made the cuisine

worse than the cheapest of tables d'hôte. Provisions as well as

their preparation were so bad that Sefer Pasha, an invalid,

confined himself to a diet of potatoes and eggs.

Add the quasi-impossibility of obtaining a bath; the

uncleanliness of the offices; the hard narrowness of the sofas;

the small basins, or rather bowls, and the tiny towels like

napkins; the clamorous pets of the small fry, cats and dogs; the

crowding of second-class passengers on the quarter-deck; and the

noise of the Armenian lady beating her maid, who objected to the

process in truly dreadful language: throw in an engine which,

despite the efforts of her energetic English engineer, Mr.

Wilkinson, managed only nine instead of eleven and a half knots

an hour; an ugly north-easter off Cape Matapan, bringing tropical

downfalls of rain; and a muggy Scirocco off Istria, when we

breathed almost as much water as air: and I think that the short

entry in my journal, "horridly uncomfortable," was to a certain

extent justified by the conduct of the poor Austria. Yet the

Austro-Hungarian Lloyd's boasts a dividend of seven per cent. She

shall see no more of my money: until she mend her ways I shall

prefer the Genoese Rubattino.

But, as the Persian poet has it, Ín níz bug'zared--"Even these

things pass away." At Corfu we were cheered by once more meeting

Sir Charles Sebright, who looked hale and hearty as of yore. When

we reached Trieste, his Excellency Baron Pino von Friendenthall,

accompanied by the most amiable of "better halves," came off in

his galley, happily unconscious of typhus; and carried us away

without the usual troubles and delays of landing in harbour

bumboats. Friendly faces smiled a welcome; and, after an absence

of some seven months, I found myself once more in the good town

which has given us a home during the last five years.

At Trieste I was delayed for some time, awaiting the report that

the specimens collected by the Expedition had arrived at their

destination, the warehouses of the London Docks. Mr. Clarke met

with obstacles at Suez; and, consequently, did not reach England

till June 20th, after twenty-three rough days. As her Majesty's

Foreign Office had been pleased to accord me two months of leave

to England, I determined to make the voyage by "long sea." Both

suffering from the same complaint, want of rest and of

roast-beef, as opposed to rosbif, we resolved to ship on board

the English steamer Hecla, of the B. and N. A. R. M. S. P.

Company, the old Cunard line, famous for never having lost a

life, a ship, or a letter. We left Trieste on July 7, 1878, in

charge of our excellent commander, Captain James Brown; and,

after a cruise of twenty days, viâ Venice, Palermo, and

Gibraltar--a comfortable, cheery, hygienic cruise in charming

weather over summer seas--we found ourselves once more (July

26th) in the city of the Liver.

Appendix I.

DATES OF THE THREE JOURNEYS (Northern, Central, and Southern)

made by the Second Khedivial Expedition.

First Journey.

(December 19, 1877, to February 13, 1878.)

December 6, 1877, left Cairo.

10 1877, left Suez.

14 1877, reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr)

on the "Day of 'Arafát."

* * * * *

December 19, 1877, landed at El-Muwaylah.

21 1877, marched upon Wady Tiryam.

22 1877, marched upon Wady Sharmá.

23 1877, marched upon Jebel el-Abyaz.

30 1877, returned to Wady Sharmá.

January 7, 1878, marched upon 'Aynúnah.

8 1878, halted at 'Aynúnah.

9 1878, halted at Wady el-'Usaylah.

10 1878, reached Magháir Shu'ayb.

25 1878, marched upon Makná.

February 3 1878, embarked for the Marsá Dahab in the

Sinaitic Peninsula.

4 1878, to the anchorage of El-Nuwaybi'.

5 1878, anchored at Pharaoh's Island.

6 1878, halted at Pharaoh's Island.

7 1878, steamed to El-'Akabah town.

8 1878, ran down Gulf el-'Akabah.

9 1878, anchored under Tírán Island.

10 1878, halted at Tírán Island.

February 11, 1878, ran from wrecking to Sináfir

Island.

12 1878, halted at Sinafir Island.

13 1878, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm

Yáhárr).

Second Journey.

(February 17, 1878, to March 8,1878.)

February 17, 1878 walked to ruins of Abú Hawáwít.

18 ,, marched upon the Safh Jebel Malíh in the

Wady Surr.

19 ,, camped in the Sayl Wady el-Jimm.

20 ,, marched upon El-Nagwah.

21 ,, reached the head of the Wady Sadr.

23 ,, camped below the Col, "El-Khuraytah."

24 ,, reached the Hismá.

25 ,, descended the two Passes and camped in

the "Jayb el-Khuraytah."

26 ,, marched upon the Majrá el-Ruways.

27 ,, ,, ,, ,, Wady Damah.

28 ,, ,, ,, ,, ruins of Shuwák.

March 1 ,, halted at the ruins of Shuwák.

2 ,, visited the ruins of Shaghab and camped

at the Majrá el-Wághir.

3 ,, visited the ruins El-Khandakí and camped

at the plain El-Kutayyifah.

4 ,, marched down the Wady Salmá and camped

at the Má el-Badíah.

5 ,, reached Zibá town.

6 ,, halted at Zibá.

7 ,, visited the turquoise-diggings of Zibá

and camped at the Máyat el-Ghál.

8 ,, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr).

Complementary Excursion to the Shárr Mountain.

March 13, 1878, camped in the Wady el-Káimah.

14 ,, camped in the Wady el-Kusayb.

15 ,, camped in the Safhat el-Wu'ayrah.

16 ,, up the Shárr.

17 ,, camped in the Wady Kuwayd.

18 ,, returned to El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr).

THIRD JOURNEY.

March 21, 1878, to April 10, 1878.)

March 21, 1878, left Sharm Yáhárr and made the

Sharm Dumayghah.

22 ,, halted at El-Dumayghah.

23 ,, anchored in harbour of El-Wijh.

24 ,, set out in the Sinnár southwards.

25 ,, anchored at El-Haurá.

26 ,, halted at El-Haurá.

(On March 26th MM. Marie and Philipin marched from El-Wijh to the

Wady Hamz, and rejoined head-quarters on the 28th.)

March 27, 1878 returned to El-Wijh.

29 ,, left El-Wijh and camped at inner fort.

30 ,, to Umm el-Karáyát (ruins and mine).

31 ,, visited ruins of El-Kubbah; camped in

Wady Dasnah.

April 1, 1878 to Umm el-Haráb (ruins and mine).

2 ,, camped in the Wady Abá'l-Gezáz.

3 ,, camped in the plain of Badá.

4 ,, halted at the plain of Badá.

5 ,, camped at the Ayn el-Kurr.

6 ,, camped in the Wady Laylah.

7 ,, camped in the Wady Abá'l-'Ajáj.

8 ,, to the ruins of the Gasr Gurayyim Sa'íd

(classical temple).

9 ,, to the Abá'l-Marú (Marwah mine).

1O ,, return to El-Wijh.

THE RETURN TO EGYPT.

April 12, 1878 steamed northwards to Nu'man Island.

13 ,, reached El-Muwaylah (Sharm Yáhárr).

18 ,, left El-Muwaylah, night at sea.

19 ,, in Gulf of Suez.

20 ,, reached Suez.

22 ,, reached Cairo.

Appendix II.

EXPENSES OF THE EXPEDITION TO MIDIAN, commanded by Captain R. F.

Burton, H.B.M. Consul, Trieste.

Cairo, November 1, 1877.

£ s. d.

Sum received from Egyptian Finance 1977 12 0

Amounts Paid out by Order of Captain Burton. £ s. d.

Hotel bills for five persons (thirty-six days) 149 6 9

Advanced to members of Expedition up to date

(May 3rd)[EN#87] 74 12 3

Cost of provisions for journey to Midian,

fourteen persons 314 8 9

Cost of tools, chemicals, instruments,

canteen, etc. 185 19 0

Medicine chest from Dr. Lowe 10 10 0

Journey to Suez from Cairo, December 6th, 1878:--

Hotel bill for eleven persons (three days) 33 3 6

Tobacco for presents to Bedawin 6 8 0

Sundries 13 10 6

Telegrams and post service 3 9 0

__________________

£791 7 9

El-Muwaylah, December 16th, to return, February 13th:--

Journey to north[EN#88] 316 14 3

Post service 14 8 0

Cost of sheep[EN#89] 32 14 0

Sundries[EN#90] 20 7 7

Five foot-soldiers' salaries 7 4 0

Eastern journey to the Hismá[EN#91] 187 6 6

Post service 3 8 0

Cost of sheep[EN#92] 11 19 0

Sundries 5 11 0

Sambúk from Suez, as per contract 9 4 0

Soldiers from fort 3 0 0

Journey to Shárr[EN#93] 44 11 6

Cost of sheep[EN#94] 3 4 0

Thirty pairs of boots for soldiers[EN#95] 6 0 0

Sundries 1 0 0

Journey to south[EN#96] 92 13 0

Cost of sheep[EN#97] 15 16 0

Post service 2 0 0

Sundries[EN#98] 18 3 6

Special payments:--

Sayyid 'Abd el-Rahím Effendi 16 0 0

Bukhayt 1 12 0

Husayn 1 12 0

Shaykh Furayj 4 0 0

Shaykh Furayj salary for twenty-five days 5 0 0

Expenses at Suez, unloading, etc., and hotel bills

for ten persons 39 17 0

Post and telegrams 1 16 0

Suez to Cairo 1 12 6

_________________

£1658 1 7

Expenses at Cairo up to date May 5, 1878:--

Unloading, cartage, and preparing for Exhibition 24 5 5

Salaries of persons engaged from Cairo and Muwaylah:--

Anton Dimitri, Giorgi, and Petro[EN#99] 93 17 6

Magazine-man at El-Muwaylah[EN#100] 6 8 0

Sais from Suez, engaged through governor[EN#101] 9 0 0

Mr. Clarke's salary[EN#102] 180 0 0

_________________

£1971 12 6

In hand for small expenses not yet sent in

for payment 5 19 6

_________________

£1977 12 0

_________________

Sent in May 6, 1878.

(Signed) CHAS. CLARKE.

(Countersigned) RICHARD F. BURTON.

Commanding Expedition.

Appendix III.

PRESERVED PROVISIONS AND OTHER STORES, supplied by Messrs.

Voltéra Bros., of the Ezbekiyyah, Cairo.

£ s. d.

95 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 7

670 okes best rice, at 8 1/2d. 23 14 7

152 okes sugar, at 11 1/2d. per kilog. 8 19 6 1/2

60 okes ground coffee, at 4s. 6d. 13 10 0

120 tins milk, at 14s. 7 0 0

120 bottles pickles 6 0 0

15 tins butter (of 1 lb.), at 2s. 6d. 1 17 6

60 okes oil, at 2s. 6d. 7 10 0

6 heads English cheese (60 1/4 lbs.) at 1s. 5d. 4 10 4 1/2

160 okes dried French beans, at 10d. 6 13 4

60 okes maccaroni and paste 3 0 0

54 okes onions, at 7d. 1 11 6

10 okes garlic, at 10d. 0 8 4

50 packets candles 2 10 0

5 okes cavendish tobacco, at 12s. 3 0 0

6 okes tobacco (Turkish), at 24s. 7 4 0

120 bottles soda-water, at 8d. per dozen 4 0 0

20 bottles syrups, at 2s. 2 0 0

50 bottles vinegar 2 10 0

10 dozen beer, at 11s. 5 10 0

15 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 1 2 6

20 pots mustard, at 1s. 6d. 1 10 0

6 bottles curry, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 0

20 lbs. table raisins 0 16 0

10 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 1 0 0

_________________

£118 6 3

10 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 0

5 large packets salt at 1s. 6d. 0 7 6

6 bottles sauces, at s. 12d. 0 7 0

12 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 1 10 0

12 umbrellas, at 4s. 2 8 0

12 bottles blacking, at 1s.

(for tracing inscriptions) 0 12 0

6 lanterns, at 1s. 6d. 0 9 0

12 large tins sardines, at 1s. 6d. 0 18 0

2 corkscrews, at 1s. 3d. 0 2 6

2 opening knives 0 2 0

101 1/4 okes of biscuits, at 1s. 5 1 3

1 case Mumm's champagne 4 5 0

1 case cognac, XX 2 8 0

1 case whisky 1 16 0

1 tin plum-pudding 0 2 6

10 packets matches, at 1s. 2d. 0 11 8

8 barrels flour, at L3 24 0 0

4 okes Curani (Kora'ni) tobacco, at 16s. 3 4 0

30 lbs. tea, at 4s. 6 0 0

24 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 4 0

18 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 18 0

18 tins haricots flageolets, at 1s. 0 18 0

18 tins champignons, at 1s. 2d. 1 1 0

18 tins macedoine, at 1s. 0 18 0

8 tins carrots, at 1s. 0 8 0

16 tins asparagus (large), at 3s. 2 8 0

53 1/2 lbs. ham, at 1s. 6d. 4 0 3

100 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 10 0 0

100 tins meats, at 1s. 6d. 7 10 0

4 dozen pints beer, at 8s. 1 12 0

7 empty tins for coffee, at 1s. 6d. 0 10 6

17 empty bags 0 14 2

4 okes packing rope, at 2s. 0 8 0

1/4 okes isinglass 0 3 0

2 bottles spices 0 2 0

10 nutmegs 0 1 0

_________________

£205 16 7

£ s. d.

1 packet starch 0 3 0

1 oke twine 0 2 6

2 okes nails, at 10d. 0 1 8

1 box cigarette papers 0 8 0

Kitchen utensils 0 13 6

Empty bags 0 2 0

Packing 2 10 0

_________________

Total £209 17 3

_________________

Additional Supplies.

£ s. d.

50 bottles 'Ráki, at 2s. 5 0 0

95 okes potatoes, at 5d. 1 19 7

16 lbs. tea, at 4s. 3 4 0

50 tins preserved meats, at 1s. 6d. 3 15 0

20 tins green peas, at 1s. 1 0 0

12 tins haricots verts, at 1s. 0 12 0

12 tins champignon, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 0

6 tins first size asparagus, at 4s. 1 4 0

10 tins butter (1 lb.), at 2s. 8d 1 6 8

36 lbs. English cheese, at 1s. 6d. 2 14 0

60 okes maccaroni 3 0 0

126 okes onions, at 7d. 3 13 6

20 packets candles 1 0 0

50 boxes matches, at 1s. 2d. doz. 0 5 0

5 bars soap, at 1s. 6d. 0 7 6

12 bottles sauces, at 1s. 2d. 0 14 0

6 large bottles pepper, at 2s. 0 12 0

10 small packets salt, at 1s. 0 10 0

5 bottles lime-juice, at 2s. 6d. 0 12 6

108 okes hard biscuits, at 1s. 5 8 0

2 1/2 okes snuff 2 10 0

16 lbs. ginger-root, at 1s. 6d. 1 4 0

2 doz. whisky, at 36s. 3 12 0

2 doz. Martel's cognac 4 4 0

6 bottles absinthe, 2s. 6d. 0 15 0

_________________

£49 16 9

5 bottles Oxley's essence of ginger, at 4s. 1 0 0

5 bottles pyretic saline, at 3s. 6d. 0 17 6

3 boxes seidlitz powders, at 2s. 0 6 0

1 bottle aconite 0 2 6

4 iron tea and coffee kettles 1 14 0

2 empty tins for tea 0 3 0

Packing 1 10 0

Carts, 2s.; railway fare, 82s. 4 4 0

_________________

Total £59 13 9

APPENDIX IV.

BOTANY AND LIST OF INSECTS.

SECTION I.

PROFESSOR D. OLIVER'S LIST OF DRIED PLANTS presented by Captain

Burton to the Herbarium, Royal Gardens, Kew, September, 1878.

Núman North Middle South

Isle. Midian. Midian. Midian.

Anastatica hierochuntina, L.

Kaff maryam ................ - I - -

Morettia parviflora, Boiss.

Eaten by cattle. Thagar;

Gaf'aa ..................... - - I I

Matthiola oxyceras, DC.

forma gracilis. Animals

eat. Hazá; Muhawwil ..... - - I -

Malcolmia aegyptiaca, Spr.

Animals eat. Tarbeh ...... - I - -

Zilla myagroides, F. Silla.

Camels eat. ............... - I - -

Biscutella Columnae, Ten .... - - I -

Diplotaxis Harra? Hárrah.

Eaten by cattle. .......... - - I -

Diplotaxis acris, Boiss.

(Moricandia crassifolia,

Gay) ...................... - I - -

Sisymbrium erysimoides, Desf.

Salih. Eaten by camels

and sheep ................. - I I I

Farsetia Burtonae, Oliv.

sp. nov. Ghurayrá ........ - I I -

Schimpera arabica, H. and

St. ....................... - I - -

Enarthrocarpus lyratus, F.,

vel E. strangulatus,

Boiss ..................... - I - -

Capparis Sodada, Br. (Sodada

decidua, Forsk.). Tanzub.

Red berries eaten. ........ - - - I

Cleome chrysantha, Dcne.

Mashteh. Pounded and

drank for worms, etc. ..... - - - I

Cleome arabica, L. 'Ubaysd.

Eaten by animals. ......... - - - I

Papaver Decaisnei, H. and St. - - I -

Ochradenus baccatus, Del.

Gurzi. A large tree;

eaten by cattle ........... - I - I

Reseda (Caylusea) canescens,

L. Zanabán. Eaten by

cattle .................... - I I -

Reseda, an R. stenostachya(?),

Boiss. Khizám. Eaten by

animals ................... - I - -

Helianthemum Lippii, Pers.

Kazim. Cattle eat. ........ - - I -

Silene villosa, Forsk.

'Abaysá. Too much coated

with sand to serve as

food for animals .......... - I - -

Gypsophila Rokejeka, Del. ... - - I -

Polycarpaea fragilis, Del.

Makr ...................... I - - -

Portulaca oleracea, L. ...... - - - I

Hibiscus micranthus, L. fil.

forma. Khusiyat Ráshid.

Eaten by animals. ......... - - I I

Abutilon fruticosum, G. and

P. (Sida denticulata,

Fres.). ................... - - - I

Abutilon muticum, Don ....... - - - I

Erodium laciniatum, Cav.

Garná. Eaten by cattle ... - I I I

Monsonia nivea, Gay ......... - I - -

Geranium mascatense, Boiss.

Hiláwá. Eaten by man and

beast. .................... - - I -

Erodium cicutarium, L. ...... - I - -

Tribulus terrestris, L.

Katbeh .................... - I I I

Zygophyllum simplex, L. ..... - - I -

Zygophyllum album, L.

Gallúm. Camels eat. ...... I - - -

Zygophyllum coccineum, L.

forma (Z. propinqiuum,

Dcne.). Muráká.

Animals eat. .............. - I - -

Fagonia cretica, L. van

(F. glutinosa, Del.).

Shikáá (North Midian);

Darmeh (Núman) ........... I I - -

Fagonia mollis, Del.

Warágá; and young plant

of same = Zarag. Animals

eat. ...................... - I I -

Fagonia Bruguieri, DC.

Jamdeh. Animals eat. ...... - I - -

Dodonmaea viscosa, L. var.

(D. arabica, H. and

St.). Athab ............... - - I -

Rhus oxyacanthoides, Dum.

'Ar'ar .................... - - I -

Neurada procumbens, L.

Sáadán. Eaten by man and

beast. Mountain region. ... - I - I

Trianthema pentandra, L. .... - - - I

Trianthema(?). (Imperfect

specimen.) Rumayh. Eaten by

sheep and cattle. ......... - - - I

Aizoon canariense, L. Dááá.

Grain pounded and eaten. .. - - - I

Gisekia pharnaceoides, L. ... - I - -

Cucumis prophetarum, L.

Locality mislaid. .........

Cotyledon umbilicus, L.

forma ..................... - - I -

Pimpinella arabica, Boiss.

Rujaylet el-Ghuráb (Little

Crow's-foot). Sheep eat.

Locality astray. ..........

Pimpinella (Tragium

palmetorum? St. and H.).

Very young. ............... - I I -

Ferula (? sp., leaf only).

Kalkh. Animals eat. High up

on SHÁRR. .................

Grammosciadium scandicinum,

Boiss. sp. nov. ............ - - I I

Medicago laciniata, All. ..... - - I -

Taverniera aegyptiaca, Boiss.

(ex descr.). Shibrig. Eaten

by animals. ................ I - - -

Indigofera spinosa, Forsk.

Shibrig. Camels eat. Good

fodder. .................... - - - I

Indigofera paucifolia, D. .... - I - -

Indigofera (stunted specimen,

may be I. paucifolia).

'Afar. Animals eat. ........ - I - -

Tephrosia Apollinea, DC.

Dalsam; Táwil. Animals eat. - I I I

Genista (Retama) monosperma,

Del. ....................... - I - -

Lotononis Leobordea, Bth.

Hurbat. Eaten by cattle. ... - I I -

Trigonella stellata, Forsk.

(T. microcarpa, Fres.) ..... - I I -

Onobrychis(?), possibly

O. Ptolemaica. (Barren

specimen). ................. - I - -

Astragalus sparsus(?), Dcne. . - I - -

Astragalus Sieberi, DC.

Ghákeh. Dry and pounded

root mixed with clarified

butter. Drunk as a

restorative. ............... - I - I

Astragalus Forskahlei, Boiss.

Kidád. Camels eat. ........ - I - -

Cassia obovata, Coll. Senna .. - I I I

Iphiona scabra, DC. Zafrah.

Camels eat. ................ - I - -

Pulicaria undulata, DC.

Rabul. Fine perfume. ....... - I - -

Blumea Bovei, DC.

(B. abyssinica, Sch.) ...... - I - I

Ifloga spicata, Forsk.

Zenaymeh. Animals eat. ..... - - - I

Asteriscus pygmaeus, C. and

Dur. ....................... - - - I

Anvillaea Garcini, DC.

(fide Boissier). Nukud.

Eaten by camels and sheep. . - - I -

Anthemis, an A. deserti(?),

Boiss. Gahwán. Camels

eat: also called Gurrays,

pounded and eaten with

dates. ..................... - I I I

Matricaria (Chamaemelum)

auriculata (Boiss.) ........ - - I -

Senecio Decaisnei, DC.

Umm lewinayn ............... - - I I

Senecio coronopifolius, Desf. - I I -

Calendula aegyptiaca, Desf. . - - I -

Calendula aegyptiaca(?) ..... - I - -

Calendula, an var.

aegyptiacae(?) ............ - - - I

Echinops spinosus, L.

Akhshir. Eaten by camels,

sheep, and asses. ......... - - I I

Zoegea purpurea, Fres.

Rubayyán. Cattle eat. .... - - I -

Centaurea sinaica, DC.

Yemrár. Eaten by sheep,

asses, etc. ............... - I - I

Picridium tingitanum, Desf.

forma. Huwwá; Tiz

el-Kalbeh; El-Haudán.

Eaten by man and animals. . - I I I

Urospermum picroides, Desf. . - I - -

Microrhynchus nudicaulis,

Less. 'Azid ............... I - I I

Pterotheca bifida, F. and M. - I I -

Picris, conf. P. Saha*ae,

C. and K. ................. - - - I

Picris cyanocarpa, Boiss. ... - - I -

Callipeltis cucullaria,

Stev. 'Ikrish. Cattle eat.

North or Central Midian.

Crucianella membranacea,

Boiss. ................... - - I -

Galium capillare, Dcne ..... - - I -

Salvadora persica, L.

El-Arák ................. - I - I

Rhazya stricta, Dcne.

Harjal. Eaten only by

mules. Very fragrant. .... - I - -

Daemia cordata, R. Br. ..... - - I -

Steinheilia radians, Dcne.

Faká .................... - I - -

Convolvulus Hystrix, V.

Shibrim. Root used as a

purgative. Animals eat

upper part of plant. .... - - - I

Cuscuta, conf.

C. brevistyla, A. Br. ... - - I -

Withania somnifera, Dun.

Shajarat el-Dib ......... - I - -

Lycium europaeum, L.

'Aushaz. Eaten by

animals. ................ - - I I

Solanum coagulans(?),

Forsk. var. (A small

fragment only). ......... - - I -

Hyoscyamus pusillus,

L. Saykrán ............. - I I -

Heliotropium arbainense,

Fres. Rahháb. Cattle

eat. .................... - I I -

Trichodesma africanum,

R. Br. Ahmim. Camels and

other animals eat. ...... - - I -

Echium longifolium(?), Del.

Kahlá. Animals eat. .... - - I -

Anchusa Milleri, W. ....... - - I -

Anchusa Milleri(?) young

specimens. .............. - - I -

Anchusa Milleri(?) young

specimens. .............. - I - -

Gastrocotyle (Anchusa

hispida, Forsk.). Karir.

Camels eat. ............. - - - I

Arnebia hispidissima,

A. DC. Fayná. Animals

eat. .................... - I I -

Lithospermum callosum, V. . - I - -

Lindenbergia sinaica,

Bth. Mallih. Cattle eat. - - - I

Verbascum (in bud), an

V. sinaiticum(?), Bth. . - - - I

Verbascum, sp. nov. Sammá - - I -

Herpestis Monniera,

Kth. Nafal. Animals eat. - I - -

Veronica Anagallis, L. ... - - - I

Linaria aegyptiaca, Dum. . - I - -

Linaria macilenta, Dcne.

Zuraymat el-Himar.

Eaten by animals. ...... - - I -

Linaria (*§ Elatinoides),

sp. imperfect. ......... - - I -

Linaria simplex(?), DC. .. - I I -

Linaria Haelava Chav.

(fide Boissier) ........ - I - -

Blepharis edulis, Pers.

(Acanthodium spicatum,

Del.). Shauk el-Jemel.

Camels fond of it. ..... - I - I

Lavandula coronopifolia,

Poir. Zayteh. All

animals eat. ........... - I I -

Mentha lavandulacea, W.

Habag. Animals do not

eat. Pounded and mixed

with fresh dates, "good

for stomach". .......... - I - -

Salvia aegyptiaca, L. .... - I - -

Salvia deserti, Dcne. .... - - I -

Salvia, an S. deserti(?).

Jáadeh. Pounded in

water and snuffed up

nose. .................. - - I -

Otostegia, var. O.

scariosae(?), Bth. (vel

O. repanda, Bth.)

Ghasseh. Sheep eat. .... - - I I

Statice axillaris, Forsk.

Annúm. Camels eat. .... - I - I

Plantago Psyllium, L.

Nez'i'ah. Animals eat. . - I I -

Plantago amplexicaulis,

Cav. Yanameh. Animals

eat. ................... - - I -

Aerwa javanica, Jass.

Rayl. Cattle eat. ...... - I - I

Chenopodium murale, L.? .. - I - -

Chenopodium murale, L.?

(Small seedlings.)

Nafal. Cattle eat. ..... - - - I

Atriplex dimorphostegia?

K. and K. Roghol.

Animals eat. ........... - I - -

Echinopsilon lanatum, Moq.

Garay'á. ............... - I - I

Suaeda sp.(?). (Small

fragment.) .............. - I - -

Suaeda sp.(?). (Barren

fragments, insect

punctured?) 'Aslá.

Forage plant. ........... I - I -

Suaeda monoica? Forsk.

Zuraygá. Forage plant. . I - - -

Salsola(?), cf. S.

longifolia, F. Hamz.

Camels eat. ............. I - - -

Caroxylon(?) (barren

specimen), near C.,

foetidum. Akahrit.

Animals eat. ............ I - - -

Rumex vesicarius, L.

(R. roseus, Del.).

Hammáz. Animals eat. ... - - I -

Emex spinosus, Camp. ...... - I - -

Crozophora tinctoria, Juss.

Hinaydieh. Not eaten. ... - - - I

Euphorbia cornuta, Pers.

'Atir ................... - I - -

Euphorbia scordifolia,

Jacq. Gharghir. Animals

eat. .................... - I - -

Euphorbia (Anisophyllum)

granulata, Schf.

Rugaygeh. Animals eat. .. - - - I

Euphorbia (Anisophyllum)

granulata, forma(?).

Lubayneh. Cattle eat. ... - - - I

Juniperus phoenicea, L.

At four thousand feet on

Sharr. Trunk thicker

than a man's body.

Halibeh. ................ - - I -

Parietaria alsinifolia,

Del. .................... - - I -

Forskahlea tenacissima, L.

Lissák. Animals eat. ... - - I -

Asphodelus fistulosus, L.

(var. tenuifolius,

Bker.). Bo'rak. Only

eaten by animals when

very hungry. Asses eat. . - I I -

Bellevalia flexuosa, Boiss. - I - -

Dipcadi erythraeum, Webb .. - I - -

Gagea reticulata, R. and S. - I - -

Juncus maritimus, L. ...... - - - I

Scirpus Holoschoenus, L.

Namas. Sent to Egypt for

mats. ................... - - - I

Cyperus conglomeratus,

Rottb. (Young specimens) - I - -

Chloris villosa, Pers. .... - - I -

AEluropus repens .......... - I - -

Tricholaena micrantha,

Schrad. Ghazuiar. Eaten

by camels, etc. ......... - - I I

Panicum turgidum, Forsk.

Zarram. Good fodder. .... - I - I

Arundo Donax, L. Kasbá ... - I - -

Polypogon monspeliensis,

Desf. Kháfúr. Sheep

eat. .................... - - - I

Stipa tortilis, Desf.

Pehmeh. Animals eat. .... - I I I

Aristida caerulescens,

Desf. Shárib el-Kale.

Animals eat. ............ - I I -

Hordeum maritimum, L. ..... - I - -

Pappophorum, an P.

phleoides(?), R. and S.

Nejil. Sheep eat. ....... - - - I

Barren specimen.

Indeterminable. Grass ... - I - -

Grass(?). Root and leaves.

Hashmil. Animals eat. ... I - - -

Typha(?). Root and

fragments of leaves.

Birdi ................... - - - I

Grass. Fragmentary. Záeh.

Cattle eat. ............. - - - I

Chara foetida, Braun.

'Ishnik ................. - I - -

A barren fragment of

undershrub, with opposite

fleshy leaves with

recurved margins. Ajid.

Eaten by animals.

Doubtful. ............... I - - -

D. OLIVER.

SECTION II.

The spirit-specimens submitted to Mr. William Carruthers, of the

British Museum, are described by him as follows:--

1. Phallus impudicus, Linn. (in Arab. Faswat el-'Ajúz). The common

"stinkhorn," extremely common in some districts of England, and obtruding

on the notice of every one from its detestable odour. It is widely

distributed over America and Africa, as well as Europe, but I find no

record of its occurring in Asia.

2. Tulostoma mammosum, Fr. Also British, but not so common. Widely

distributed.

3. Phelipoea lutea, Desf. A dark, fleshy broom-rape, with scaly leaves. We

have one species of the same genus in England. They are parasitic on

the roots of plants; and the Midianite species, which is found in North

Africa, Egypt, and Arabia, grows on the roots of a Chenopodium.

4. Cynomorium coccineum, Mich. A fleshy, leafless plant, also a root-

parasite. It was called by old writers Fungus Melitensis, and was of much

repute in medicine. It is known from the Himalayas to the Canary

Islands, and is said by Webb, in his history of the Canaries, to be eaten in

the Island of Lancerotte.

5. Doemia cordata, R. Br. A spiny shrub, with roundish leaves and small

sharp-pointed fruit, found in Egypt and Arabia.

6. Capparis galeata, Fres., with large fruit, long and pear-shaped. This

caper is well known; from Syria and Egypt.

(Signed) W. CARRUTHERS.

INSECTS COLLECTED IN MIDIAN BY CAPTAIN BURTON.

(Identified by Mr. Frederick Smith, of the British Museum.)

COLEOPTERA.

Geodephaga

l. Anthia 12 guttata.

Melolonthidoe.

2. Schizonycha reflexa.

3. Pachydema.

Dynastidoe.

4. Heteronychus.

Curculionidoe.

5. Cleonus arabs.

Heteromera.

6. Mesostenanear punctipennis.

7. Adesmia.

8. Akis Goryi?

9. Mylabris.

Hemiptera.

10. Nepa rubra.

Mantidoe.

11. Eremiaphila arenaria. 12. Blepharis mendica.

Orthoptera.

13. Acocera.

14. Acridium peregrinum. 15. Poecilocera bufonia.

Scorpionidea.

16. Androctonus funestus.

17. " leptochelys.

18. " quinquestriatus.

Arachnida.

19. Galeodes arabs, in spirit.

20. Clubiona Listeri, in spirit.

(Signed) FREDK. SMITH.

APPENDIX V.

METEOROLOGICAL JOURNAL

(December 19, 1877, to April 17, 1878).

METEOROLOGICAL NOTES ON TRAVELLING IN MIDIAN.

Midian follows the rule of Syria--travel in the spring. The best time on the

seaboard is during the months of March, April, and May. In the mountains and

the Hismá plateau, April, May, and June are the most favourable. In Syria

(Damascus) the autumn is dangerous: the finest travelling weather is in March

to May. The second best season is between October and December.

January and February are cold; the latter also (sometimes) rainy.

March is stormy at first (El-'Uwweh), but afterwards gets warmer (El-Ni'ám).

Dews now begin, and last some three months: they wet everything like a sharp

shower, and make the air feel soppy.

In July the first dates come in. Fevers are prevalent during this month, and

also during August and September.

October is a month of heat and drought.

In November the first cold occurs.

December is the coldest month.

NOTES on TRAVELLING IN LOWER EGYPT.

September is very bad--all should escape who can. Fruits everywhere; sun hot;

air damp with irrigation water, white fogs and other horrors.

October is a good month, the weather being neither too hot nor too

cold.

November is the month of the "second water" irrigation about Cairo.

December is pleasant.

January is cold and sometimes wet.

February is stormy, and even foggy with sand-mist.

March is windy, but on the whole a good month, except for Khamsin, which

begins about March 20th.

April begins to feel warm (April 29, 1878, Shamm el-Nasim).

The winter presents a marvellous contrast to that of England, which

can often show one hour and five minutes' sunlight in the twenty-four, or

2.8 per cent. of its possible duration.

THE TIDES

In El-'Akabah are like Suez: first of month, flood, 6--12 a.m. and p.m.; ebb,

the rest. But at Suez the tides rise one metre, and at times two metres; at

El-'Akabah (February 7), one foot.

For the instruments NOT used in this Expedition, see Chap. I. p. 11.

The barometre aneroid sold by M. Ebner was partially repaired by M. Lacaze,

and served for Mr. David Duguid's observations.

My pocket set by Casella (maker to the Admiralty and Ordnance)

consisted of--

One watch aneroid (compensated, 1182).

Two sets wet and dry bulb thermometers (one broken).

One set maxima and minima thermometers, Nos. 12,877 and 12,906.

Two pocket hygrometers not numbered.

OBSERVATIONS TAKEN DURING FIRST MARCH BETWEEN DECEMBER

19, 1877, AND FEBRUARY 18, 1878

December 19, 1877, compared ship's (Mukhbir) mercurial barometer, 758

millimetres, with my aneroid by Casella (29.85) = 765 millimetres; difference

in

ship's, + 007 millimetre.

January 31, 1878, returned on board Mukhbir at Makná. Ship's mercurial

barometer, 773 millimetres; my aneroid by Casella, 764 millimetres; difference

in ship's, + 009 millimetre.

Date. Time. Aneroid Aneroid Ther. Dry Wet Hygr. Remarks.

Inches. Milli. (deg.)Bulb. Bulb.(deg.)

Dec. 19. 7a.m. 29.85 765 76 - - 58 On deck of gunboat

Mukhbir, at Sharm

Yahárr, steaming to El-

Muwaylah. Morning ugly.

Strong land-breeze,

turned to Azyab ("south-

easter"). Waves rising.

Dark-blue clouds to

windward.

Noon. 29.80 757 77 - - 54 In big tent on shore,

open east and west. Wind

high. Everything feels

damp; looks gloomy;

mountains almost hidden

by clouds. Landscape

that of Europe. No sun

nor sunshine all day.

3p.m. 29.09 - 86 - - 51 In my small tent.

Clearing to windward

(north). Wind veering to

north. Moon nearly full.

High fleecy clouds. Sea

high. No sun all day.

Azyab (the wet wind) generally lasts two or three days; veers round by west to

north. Much rain has already fallen (Arab lies). Land green (all brown); grass

plentiful (not a blade to be seen). Rains here December 15th to February 15th;

downfall one hour to four hours, then clears. On December 8th, violent rain

for one hour; filled all the torrents (Sayl).

Dec. 20. 7a.m. 29.80 758 63 - - 40 In small tent open to

east. Morning clear. Few

fleecy clouds: cool and

bright. "Misri" from

north-west; cold and

rain.

3p.m. 29.92 759 78 - - 32 Hot in tents, cool in

breeze. "Misri" high and

strong sea. At 1.10 p.m.

heavy clouds; expected

rain--few heavy drops.

AT EL-MUWAYLAH AND RAS WADY TIRYAM.

Dec. 21. 6.35a.m. 30.02 763 71 - - 35 Inside tent. Full moon

and clear. Dawn, 6 a.m.;

night, 6.30. Speckled

clouds.

Noon. 30.48 764 76 - - 48 Under umbrella. Air

clear. Mottled clouds on

mountains. Sea horizon.

Low white bank of

clouds.

3p.m. 30.05 763 77 - - 39 "Misri." High cirri from

west. Big black cloud

over sea. Suspected

rain: Arabs said no.

Cloud dispersed.

AT RAS WADY TIRYAM.

Dec. 22. 7a.m. 30.01 760 57 - - 32 Cold night. Clear

morning. Cold sunrise.

Dry north-wester.

Instruments on paper,

resting on the sand.

Very dry.

Noon. 30.14 - 82 - - 22 Very dry. Straight

streaks of cirri

everywhere.

4p.m. 30.00 763 72 - - 17 At Wady Sharmá, on sand

protected from west

wind. Bright moon,

showed halo.

Kayhak 14 begins the Coptic winter, properly speaking evening of 13th; after

sunset 1 hour 51 minutes. Sea-breeze and land-winds regular to-day and

throughout the month.

AT WADY SHARMÁ.

Dec. 23. 7a.m. 29.90 760 58 - - 19 Instruments on box

standing on sand. Moon

with halo at night. Red

sunrise, grey clouds.

Mountains blue-grey,

brightly defined. Before

dawn moon two halos,

large and small. Fleecy

clouds. Nine a.m. clear,

sun hot.

2.30p.m. 29.15 740 78 - - 25 Under rock in upper Wady

Sharmá. Streaky cirri.

Sun hot; air cool.

Little sea-breeze, kept

off by hills.

Arrived at the "White Mountain," and stayed there a week.

4p.m. 29.12 740 75 - - 28 At Jebel el-Abyaz, on

box behind tent

sheltered from wind. Air

quite still; streaky

cirri. Camp Jebel el-

Abyaz, say, 800 feet

above sea. Felt very

dry.

AT JEBEL EL-ABYAZ.

Dec. 24 7a.m. 29.10 738 61 - - 29 In mess tent on mess

table. Cold. Mottled

clouds east and zenith.

Grey bank to sea

reddened by sunrise,

like storm clouds. Rain

here from Azyab ("south-

east"). Sunrise at

Cairo, 6.55 a.m.

Noon. 29.00 737 64 63 55 33 Suspended instruments.

Grey day: cold breeze

from east. Cold comes

only from wind; when no

breeze, very mild.

Getting greyer and

colder. Very like rain--

heavey clouds.

3.10p.m. 29.00 737 64 64 52 28 Wind west, cold and raw.

Air grey and cold.

Evening cold; clouds

dispersed, sun came out.

Wind to west, inclining

to north.

Small thermometer shows higher than Casellás because in brass case; not so

well exposed to air.

Dec. 25. 7a.m. 29.10 739 50 50 45 29 Morning cool and clear.

Noon. 29.20 - 72 68 55 21 Very clear, still, and

hot. Slight breeze from

sea (west). Sun strong.

Swarms of flies. Dry

bulb in sun, 73 degrees;

wet, 60 degrees.

3p.m. 29.16 741 72 69 54 15 Cool and gentle breeze

from sea, dispersing the

swarms of flies. At

times "sand-devil" from

north-west.

All this day's observations taken on writing table in large tent. Night cold:

cold severest after two a.m. and before sunrise. Sky at night perfectly clear.

Wind from north turning to east, a Barri ("land-breeze"). Height of Jebel el-

Abyaz above tents, by aneroid = 350 feet (29.20 - 28.85 = 0.35).

Dec. 26. 7.15a.m. 29.21 743 48 46 43 22 In tent. Sky perfectly

clear.

Noon. 29.26 - 76 77 55 6 Sun very hot. Air quite

still. Fleecy clouds

from west over the sun.

4.45p.m. 29.23 743 73 69 55 8 Sun cooler. Air

perfectly clear.

Dec. 27. 7a.m. 29.16 740 50 49 43 5 3 In tent. Morning cold

and clear: few flecks of

cloud to east. Air feels

intensely dry.

12.30p.m.29.23 743 77 74 58 9 Fine cirri high up. Sky

blue. Sun veiled at

times. Very little wind,

a breath from north.

3.20p.m. 59.16 742 80 77 56 6 Sky with filmy white

clouds, thicker at west.

Sun hidden; very hot at

noon (rain-sun?). Not a

breath of air. Sense of

intense dryness. Ink

evaporates at once. Cool

breeze started up

shortly after 3.30 p.m.

from west, then clouds

thickened. Thermometer

fell 4 degrees.

Cool evening; quite clear. Fevers and feverish colds begin to show themselves

in camp. Minimum thermometer during night--No. 1, 45 degrees; No. 2, 46

degrees; French, 15-1/2 degrees (Centigrade).

Dec. 28 7a.m. 29.10 739 55 53 46 10 In tent. Still. Neither

warm nor cold. Mottled

clouds.

Noon. 29.13 740 78 72 58 4 Clouds thin. Sun very

hot (rain-sun?). Light

breeze from north-west.

3p.m. 29.10 739 79 72 58 - Feels intensely dry.

Hot, close. Heavy

clouds, and purple to

west. Gusts from west.

No wind. Morning and evening very mild. At eight p.m. dark cloud moving from

south-west to mountains. Drops of rain; then stars. Minimum thermometers

during night, both 48 degrees. None of the maximum will act.

Dec. 29. 7a.m. 29.10 738 58 58 54 9 In tent. Cool, clear.

Blue-pink in west. Light

sea-breezes from west.

Must be awfully hot in

summer. In closed tent

at eleven a.m., 92

degrees.

Noon. 29.13 - 77 75 60 10 Nice breeze from sea

(west), bending to

north.

4p.m. 29.00 739 82 79 59 5 Warm and quite still.

Mean of nineteen aneroid observations at Jebel el-Abyaz = 29.13.

MARCH FROM JEBEL EL-ABYAZ TO WADY SHARMÁ.

Dec. 30. 7a.m. 29.10 739 56 - - 7 Clear, still. No speck

of cloud. Moon Náim

(sleeping = *[figure]).

5p.m. 29.88 758 66 - - 8 Air quite clear. Camped

at Sharmá. Change to

shore pleasant and soft.

Noon on journey; sun very hot. Evening still. Violent weather at night; cold

and comfortless. Abated somewhat after sunrise.

AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH.

Dec. 31. 7a.m. 29.88 758 59 - - 7 Wind cold and dusty. Sky

perfectly clear. A few

light mist-clouds on

mountain-wall.

Noon. 29.94 760 75 73 58 6 Wind still. Sun much

warmer.

3p.m. 29.90 - 74 71 58 3 Wind cool; some dust.

Clouds about sunset sailing out of Suez Gulf, forming archipelago of sky

islets. Dark bank to south. Minimum thermometer at night = 42 degrees.

AT SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT OPEN NORTH AND SOUTH (about 100 feet

above sea-level).

Jan. 1. 7a.m. 29.90 759 53 50 45 10 Clear, fine, quite

still. Nice breeze began

about nine a.m.

Noon. 29.97 - 71 69 57 4 Cold. North wind high.

Light clouds to west;

the rest clear.

3p.m. 29.94 760 73 72 61 4 Clouds to west from Suez

sea.

High wind fell before midnight. Cold--sat in tent. Flies troublesome

everywhere. Minimum at night, 42-43 degrees.

AT WADY SHARMÁ, IN BIG TENT.

Jan 2. 7a.m. 29.98 761 53 - - 10

3p.m. 30.00 762 76 72 58 3 Cool breeze from north.

No signs of clouds. Sun

hot and air cool.

Evening no wind, no clouds. At night high cold wind from east, seems to pierce

clothes. Lasted till morning and sun well up. Minimum thermometer, No. 1 = 45

degrees; No. 2 = 46 degrees.

Jan. 3. 7a.m. 29.92 760 58 57 47 3 Dawn comfortless. Cold.

Fire in tent. Sand

blowing. Air highly

electrical.

Noon. 29.90 762 77 76 61 2 Wind still. Hot sun.

3p.m. 29.91 759 76 74 58 4 Hot sun. Gentle breeze.

Warm in tent.

Night very cold. Minimum thermometers, No. 1 = 40 degrees; No. 2 = 41 degrees.

Jan. 4. " 29.83 - 52 50 - 5

Noon. 29.93 760 81 80 60 3 Decidedly hot. No

breeze.

3p.m. 29.90 - 78 75 63 0 Very hot and still.

In evening few fleecy clouds to south-west. Appearance of Azyab. Minimum

thermometers at night, No. 1 = 36 degrees; No. 2 = 38 degrees.

AT WADY SHARMÁ.

Jan. 5. 7a.m. 29.90 - 48 45 43 6 Pink clouds south-west

and south-east. Cirri

everywhere.

Noon. 29.87 761 79 79 67 3 Hot and still. Clear;

few cirri.

3p.m. 29.96 760 74 71 60 0 Cool wind. Cold in

shade. Cirri to south,

at times over the sun.

Very cold at night. Saw new moon; set in fire. Planets veiled in mist. Moon

Káim (points upwards = *[figure]).

Jan. 6. 7.20a.m. 29.94 760 53 51 46 8 Still, clear. Light

breeze about 10.30 a.m.

Noon. 29.80 761 82 - - 4

4p.m. 29.96 761 76 - - 3 Clear and hot. Sunset,

red cirri. Water very

cold. Moon clear.

Jan. 7 " 29.98 758 52 - - 18 At Sharmá. Cool and raw.

Few clouds to south and

south-west.

Noon. 30.08 764 78 - - 26 At 'Aynúnah, in big

tent. Fresh wind from

north. Air much damper;

more pleasant.

AT 'AYNÚNAH.

Jan. 8. 7a.m. 30.11 763 55 - - 22 Morning still--windless

Breath from east. Warm

and pleasant.

Noon. 30.02 767 77 74 61 13 Quite clear and dry.

Gusts of wind. Flies

very bad, even in the

waste.

3p.m. 30.15 767 77 76 63 7

Cold high wind at night.

LEFT 'AYNÚNAH.

Jan. 9. 7a.m. 30.04 - 63 - - 10 Outside tent. Light

clouds everywhere at

dawn. Morning warm and

close.

Noon. 29.91 759 80 - - 48 At El-'Usaylah. Sky

covered with clouds. Sun

coming out.

4p.m. 29.87 758 53 - - 23 In tent at El-'Usaylah.

No wind.

Cool pleasant night. Rain in Mount Sinai(?).

Jan. 10. 6.45a.m. 29.85 - 56 - - 15 Observations in open.

Cold north wind. Clear

and cirri.

3p.m. 29.30 745 77 - - 1 At Magháir Shúayb, under

a tree.

Night cold. High wind; shook the tents.

AT MAGHÁIR SHÚAYB.

Jan. 11. 7a.m. 29.37 747 60 - - 20 In open, on box.

Noon. 29.40 748 82 - - 8 In tent.

3p.m. 29.38 747 84 - - -4 Still. Air hot.

As a rule, at Magháir Shúayb we had land-breezes; cold from north and east.

Seabreezes during day, after noon.

Jan. 12. 7a.m. 29.35 746 59 - - 3 In tent. Cool. Cirri. At

two a.m. cool fresh wind

from north.

Noon. 29.46 747 83 - - -5 In tent. Hot sun. Light

clouds.

3p.m 29.30 746 83 81 64 -9 In tent. No sun, no

wind. Thin clouds.

Night warm; wind towards morning. Mosquitoes in tamarisks of Wady. Minimum

thermometer, 52 degrees.

Jan. 13. 7a.m. 29.38 745 65 - - -4 Outside tent, on box.

Cloudy; little wind. elt

warm. Sun came out

strong at ten a.m.

Noon. 29.27 744 87 87 67 -9 In big tent. Heat like

summer. Flies

troublesome, travel on

our backs.

3p.m. 29.20 743 85 85 65 -15 Very hot. Thin clouds.

Sea-breeze.

Very hot and sultry weather: Arabs say portends rain. Wind (generally) from

north in morning; afternoon from sea.

Jan. 14. 7a.m. 29.01 740 63 63 55 0 In tent. Land-breeze set

in. Expected heavy rain,

and pitched camp higher

up.

2.30p.m. 29.15 - 81-1/279 68 0 Taken by Mr. Clarke.

Rain began 2.30 a.m. (Jan. 15), small drops, then heavy, lull, and again

heavy; ended about 4.30 a.m. A little wind from south-west rose after rain.

The last rain was on December 7-10, 1877; violent storms accompanied it.

Jan. 15. " 29.00 - 71-1/270 66 30 By Mr. Clarke at Magháir

Shúayb. Sky all covered

; little clear to west.

Mist all over north.

Things feel damp.