XI: DEADWOOD

"You're a miserable, sneaking, treacherous old equine

scoundrel!" cried Jack, shaking his fist violently at Old Blacky.

"You knew you were making us come the wrong road."

Old Blacky answered never a word, but turned, hit the

wagon-tongue a kick, and joined the other horses.

"Well, close down the front and let's talk this thing over,"

said Jack. "In the first place, we are snowed in."

"In the second place," said I, "we may stay snowed in a

week."

"I don't think we're prepared for that," said Ollie, very

solemnly.

"Let's see," went on Jack. "There are two sacks of ground

feed under Ollie's bed. By putting the horses on rather short

rations that ought to last pretty nearly or quite a week. But for

hay we're not so well provided. There's one big bundle under the

wagon, if Blacky hasn't eaten it up. The pony won't need any,

because she knows how to paw down to the dry grass. The others

don't know how to do this, and the hay will last them, after a

fashion, for about three days."

"Perhaps by that time the pony will have taught them how to

paw," I said.

"Wouldn't be surprised," returned Jack. "Perhaps by that time

we'll all be glad to learn from her. We've got flour enough to

last a fortnight, so we needn't be afraid of running out of

water-pancakes at least. You don't grow fat on 'em, but, on the

other hand, there is no gout lurking in a water-pancake as I make

it."

"No, Jack, that's so," I said, feelingly. "We've got enough

bacon for several meals, a can of chicken, and two earls of

beans. Also a loaf of bread and a pound of crackers. Then there's

three cans of fruit, a dozen potatoes, six eggs, a quart of milk,

and half a pound of pressed figs. After that we'll paw with the

pony."

"I wonder if we couldn't get some game?" inquired Ollie.

"Snow-birds, maybe," said Jack. "Or perhaps an owl. I've

heard b'iled owl spoken of."

After all, the prospect was not so bad. Besides, it was so

early in the season that it did not seem at all likely that we

should be snowbound a week. Still, we knew little about the

mountain climate.

We got on our overcoats and went out and gave the horses

their breakfast. Old Blacky was still cross, but Jack contented

himself by calling him a few names. We also got up what wood we

could and piled it against the wagon, for use in case our

kerosene became exhausted, though we decided to cook in the wagon

for the present. The snow was seven or eight inches deep, and

still falling rapidly. After breakfast we took the pony down to a

little open fiat and turned her loose. The old instinct of her

wild days came back to her, and she began to paw away the snow

and gnaw at the scanty grass beneath.

After giving the other horses a little hay we returned to the

wagon, where we stayed most of the day. I'm afraid we were a

little frightened by the prospect. Of course, we knew that if it

came to the worst we could leave the wagon and make our way back

along the trail on foot, but we did not want to do that. But as

for getting the wagon back along the narrow road, now blotted out

by the snow, we knew it would be foolish to attempt it. It was

not very cold in the wagon, and Jack played the banjo, and we

were fairly cheerful. The snow kept coming down all day, and by

night it was a foot deep. The pony came in from the flat as it

began to grow dark, and we gave the horses their supper and left

them in the shelter of the rocks. Then we brushed the snow off

the top of the cover, as we had done several times before, and

went in to spend the evening by the light of the lantern. When

bedtime came, Jack looked up and said:

"The cover doesn't seem to sag down. It must have stopped

snowing."

We looked out, and found that it was so. We could even see

the stars; and, better yet, it did not seem to be growing colder.

We went to bed feeling encouraged.

The next morning the sun peeped in at us through the long

trunks of the pines, and Ollie soon discovered that the wind was

from the south.

"Unless it turns cold again, this will fix the snow," said

Jack.

He was right, and it soon began to thaw. By noon the little

stream in the gulch was a torrent, and before night patches of

bare ground began to appear. We decided not to attempt to leave

camp that day, but the next morning saw us headed back along the

tortuous road. In two hours we were again on the main trail. Just

as we turned in, Eugene Brooks came along, having also been

delayed by the snow, though the fall where he was had not been

nearly so great. 'Gene laughed at us, and told us that we had

been following a trail to some lead mines which had been

abandoned several months before.

[Illustration: Lack of Confidence in Mankind]

Half a mile farther on we came to the Thunder Butte Creek

which we had sought. The water was almost blood-red, which 'Gene

told us came from the gold stamp-mills on its upper course. If

the water had been gray it would have indicated silver-mining.

Just beyond we met the Deadwood Treasure Coach. It was an

ordinary four-horse stage, without passengers, but carrying two

guards, each with a very short double-barrelled shot-gun resting

across his lap. The stage was operated by the express company,

and was bringing out the gold bricks from the mines near

Deadwood.

"I suppose," said Ollie, musingly, "if anybody tried to rob

the coach, those fellows would shoot with their guns?"

"Oh no," replied Jack. "Oh no; they carry those guns to fan

themselves with on hot days." But Ollie did not seem to be misled

by this astonishing information.

As we went on the road grew constantly more mountainous.

Sometimes the trail ran along ledges, and sometimes near roaring

streams and waterfalls, and the great pine-trees were everywhere.

We passed two grizzly old placer-miners working just off the

trail, and stopped and watched them "pan out" a few shovelfuls of

dirt. They were rewarded by two or three specks of gold, and

seemed satisfied. 'Gene told us afterward that one of them was

an old California '49er, who had used the same pan in every

State and Territory of the West.

It was a little after noon when we drove into Deadwood--the

last point outward bound at which the Rattletrap expected to

touch. It was a larger town than Rapid City, and was wedged in a

little gulch between two mountains, with the White Wood Creek

rushing along and threatening to wash away the main street. We

noticed that the only way of reaching many of the houses on the

mountain-side was by climbing long flights of stairs. We drove

on, and camped near a mill on the upper edge of town.

In the afternoon we wandered about town, and, among other

places, visited the many Chinese stores. We also clambered up the

mountain-sides to the two cemeteries, which we could see far

above the town. It seemed to us that on rather too many of the

head-stones, (which were in nearly every case boards, by-the-way)

it was stated that the person whose grave it marked was

"assassinated by" so-and so, giving the name of the assassin; but

these were of the old days, when no doubt there were a good many

folks in Deadwood who left the town just as well off after they

had been assassinated. "Killed by Indians" was also the record on

some of the boards. Ollie was greatly interested in the Chinese

graves, with dishes of rice and chicken on them, and colored

papers covered with curious characters--prayers, I suppose. We

climbed on up to the White Rocks, almost at the top of the

highest peak overlooking Deadwood, and had a good view of the

town and gulch below, and of the great Bear Butte standing out

alone and bold miles to the east. We were tired, and glad to go

to bed as soon as we got back to the wagon.

The next day we decided to visit Lead City (pronounced not

like the metal, but like the verb to lead). Here were most of the

big gold mines, including the great Homestake Mine. It was only

two or three miles, and we drove over early. It was a strange

town, perched on the side of a mountain, and consisted of small

openings in the ground, which were the mines, and immense

shed-like buildings, which contained the ore-reducing works. The

noise of the stamp-mills filled the whole town, and seemed to

drown out and cover up everything else. We soon found that there

was no hope of our getting into the mines.

"They'd think you were spies for the other mines, or

something of that sort," said a man to us. "Nobody can get down.

Nobody knows where they are digging, and they don't mean that

anybody shall. They may be digging under their own property

exclusively, and they may not. For all I know, they may be taking

gold that belongs to me a thousand feet, more or less, under my

back yard."

"If I had a back yard here," said Jack, after we had passed

on, "I'd put my ear to the ground once in a while and listen, and

if I heard anybody burrowing under it I'd--well--I'd yell scat at

'em."

We found no difficulty in getting in the stamp-mills, and a

man kindly told us much about them.

"The Homestake Mills make up the largest gold-reducing plant

in the world," said the man. "Where do you suppose the largest

single stamp-mill in the world is?" We guessed California.

"No," he said; "it's in Alaska--the Treadwell Mill."

We decided that the stamp-mills were the noisiest place we

were ever in. There were hundreds of great steel bars, three or

four inches in diameter and a dozen feet long, pounding up and

down at the same time on the ore and reducing it to powder. It

was mixed with water, and ran away as thin red mud, the gold

being caught by quicksilver. The openings of the shafts and

tunnels were in or near the mills, and there were the smallest

cars and locomotives which we had ever seen going about

everywhere on narrow tracks, carrying the ore. Ollie walked up to

one of the locomotives and looked down at it, and said:

"Why, it seems just like a Shetland-pony colt. I believe I

could almost lift it."

The engineer sat on a little seat on the back end, and seemed

bigger than his engine. As we looked at them we constantly

expected to see them tip up in front from the weight of the

engineer. There was also a larger railroad, though still a narrow

gauge, winding away for twenty miles along the tops of the hills,

which was used principally for bringing wood for the engines and

timbers for propping up the mines.

[Illustration: Flying Cord-Wood]

We were walking along a connecting shed, and happened to look

out a window, when we saw a four-foot stick of cord-wood shoot up

fifty feet from some place behind us, and after sailing over a

wide curve, like a "fly-ball," alight on a great pile of similar

sticks on the lower ground, which was much higher than an

ordinary house, and must have contained thousands of cords.

"Good gracious!" exclaimed Jack. "Wish I could throw a stick

of wood like that fellow."

Another and another shot after the first one in quick

succession. Sometimes there were two almost together, and we

noticed the bigger and heavier the stick the higher and farther

it was shot. We saw some almost a foot in diameter soaring like

straws before the wind.

"What a baseball pitcher that man would make!" went on Jack,

enthusiastically. "Think of his arm! Look at that big one go--it

must weigh two hundred pounds!"

"Let's get out of this shed and investigate the mystery," I

said.

Outside it was all clear. The narrow-gauge wood railroad

ended on the edge of the steep hill overlooking the mills. Down

this was a long wooden chute, or flume, like a big trough, which

for the last thirty or forty feet at its lower end curved upward.

Men were unloading wood from a train at the upper end. Each stick

shot down the flume like lightning, up the short incline at the

end, and soared away like a bird to the pile beyond and below the

shed. A little stream of water trickled constantly down the chute

to keep the friction of the logs from setting it on fire.

"That's the most interesting thing here," said Jack. "I'd

like to send the Blacksmith's Pet down the thing and see what he

would do. I'll wager he'd kick the wood-pile all over the town

after he alighted."

We spent nearly the whole day in wandering about the

stamp-mills. The great steam engines which operated them were

some of the largest we had ever seen.

"And think," observed Jack, "of the fact that all of this

heavy machinery, including the big engines and the locomotives

and cars, and, in fact, everything, was brought overland on

wagons, probably most of it nearly three hundred miles. No wonder

people got to driving such teams as Henderson's."

Toward night we returned to Deadwood by the way of Central

City. Here were more great mines and mills, but they did not Seem

to be so prosperous, and part of the town was deserted, and

consisted of nothing but empty houses. Just as the sun set we

drove in through the Golden Gate, and east anchor at our old camp

near the mill.

The next morning was wintry again, with snowflakes floating

in the air. The ground was frozen, and the wind seemed to come

through the wagon-cover with rather more freedom than we enjoyed.

"It's time we began the return voyage," said Jack. "We're a

long way from home, and we won't get there any too soon if we go

as fast as we can and take the shortest out." So we started that

afternoon.

The shortest cut was to return to Rapid City, and then,

instead of going south into Nebraska, to go straight east,

through the Sioux Indian Reservation, crossing the Missouri at

Pierre, and then on across the settled country of eastern Dakota

to Prairie Flower, over against the Minnesota line.

We followed the same road between Deadwood and Rapid City,

with the exception that we turned out in one place, and went

around by Fort Meade. Here we found a beautiful camping-place the

first night near a little stream and great overhanging rocks, and

not far from Bear Butte. We reached Rapid late the next night,

which was Saturday, and stopped at the old camp near the

mill-race. Here we stayed over Sunday, but Monday noon saw us

under sail again. As we went through the town we stopped at the

freighter's camp, and told 'Gene Brooks good-bye, and then drove

away across the wide rolling plain to the east.

'Gene had warned us that we had a lonesome road before us to

Pierre, one hundred and seventy miles, nearly all of it across

the reservation.

"You'll follow the old freight trail all the way," he said,

"but you may not see three teams the whole distance, because

since the railroad got nearer it isn't used. You'll find an old

stage station about every fifteen or seventeen miles, with

probably one man in charge. You may see a horse-thief or two, or

something of that sort. S'ciety ain't what it ought to be 'round

a reservation gen'rally."

[Illustration: The Deserted Ranch]

Just before the sun sank behind the mountains, which lay like

low black clouds to the west, we came to a little ranch standing

alone on the prairie. The door was open, and it seemed to be

deserted, though there was a rude bed inside. There was a good

well of water, and we decided to camp near it for the night,

especially as the grass was good. There was no other house in

sight. Bedtime arrived, and no one came to the ranch.

"I think I'll just sleep in that house tonight," said Jack,

"and see how it seems. I'll leave the door open, so as not to

have too much luxury at first."

So he went to bed in the shanty, taking Snoozer along, and

leaving the wagon to Ollie and me.

We must have been asleep three or four hours when I was

awakened by the loud barking of a dog. I started up and began

unfastening the front end of the cover. Just then I heard the

pony snort in terror; and then followed a shot from a gun and the

sound of horses galloping away. As I put my head out, Jack

called, excitedly:

"Some men were trying to get the pony. They'd have done it,

too, if Snoozer hadn't barked and scared them away."

I was out of the wagon by this time, and found the pony

trembling at the end of her picket-line as near the wagon as she

could get. Snoozer kept barking as if he couldn't stop.

"Did they shoot at you, Jack?" I asked.

"No, I guess not. I think they just blazed away for fun. They

went off toward the Reservation. Some of Gene's poor s'ciety, I

suppose."

It took half an hour to get the frightened pony and indignant

dog quieted; and perhaps it was longer than that before we again

got to sleep.

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