BOYS OF OTHER COUNTRIES
BY
BAYARD TAYLOR
ENLARGED EDITION, INCLUDING
THE ROBBER REGION OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA
_ILLUSTRATED_
G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS
NEW YORK AND LONDON
=The Knickerbocker Press=
COPYRIGHT, 1876, BY
G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS
COPYRIGHT, 1901, BY
G. P. PUTNAM’S SONS
COPYRIGHT, 1904, BY MARIE TAYLOR
IN RENEWAL OF COPYRIGHT ORIGINALLY REGISTERED IN 1876
COPYRIGHT, 1912, BY
MARIE TAYLOR
[Illustration]
Made in the United States of America
CONTENTS
PAGE
I. THE LITTLE POST-BOY 3
II. THE PASHA’S SON 25
III. JON OF ICELAND 47
IV. THE TWO HERD-BOYS 129
V. THE YOUNG SERF 151
VI. STUDIES OF ANIMAL NATURE 203
VII. A ROBBER REGION OF SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA 235
I
The Little Post-Boy
In my travels about the world I have made the acquaintance of a great
many children, and I might tell you many things about their dress, their
speech, and their habits of life in the different countries I have
visited. I presume, however, that you would rather hear me relate some
of my adventures in which children participated, so that the story and
the information shall be given together. Ours is not the only country in
which children must frequently begin at an early age to do their share
of work and accustom themselves to make their way in life. I have found
many instances among other races, and in other climates, of youthful
courage, and self-reliance, and strength of character, some of which I
propose to relate to you.
This one shall be the story of my adventure with a little post-boy, in
the northern part of Sweden.
Very few foreigners travel in Sweden in the winter on account of the
intense cold. As you go northward from Stockholm, the capital, the
country becomes ruder and wilder, and the climate more severe. In the
sheltered valleys along the Gulf of Bothnia and the rivers which empty
into it, there are farms and villages for a distance of seven or eight
hundred miles, after which fruit-trees disappear, and nothing will grow
in the short, cold summers except potatoes and a little barley. Farther
inland, there are great forests and lakes, and ranges of mountains where
bears, wolves, and herds of wild reindeer make their home. No people
could live in such a country unless they were very industrious and
thrifty.
I made my journey in the winter, because I was on my way to Lapland,
where it is easier to travel when the swamps and rivers are frozen, and
the reindeer-sled can fly along over the smooth snow. It was very cold
indeed, the greater part of the time; the days were short and dark, and
if I had not found the people so kind, so cheerful, and so honest, I
should have felt inclined to turn back more than once. But I do not
think there are better people in the world than those who live in
Norrland, which is a Swedish province commencing about two hundred miles
north of Stockholm.
They are a tall, strong race, with yellow hair and bright blue eyes, and
the handsomest teeth I ever saw. They live plainly, but very
comfortably, in snug wooden houses, with double windows and doors to
keep out the cold; and since they cannot do much out-door work, they
spin and weave and mend their farming implements in the large family
room, thus enjoying the winter in spite of its severity. They are very
happy and contented, and few of them would be willing to leave that cold
country and make their homes in a warmer climate.
Here there are neither railroads nor stages, but the government has
established post-stations at distances varying from ten to twenty miles.
At each station a number of horses, and sometimes vehicles, are kept,
but generally the traveller has his own sled, and simply hires the
horses from one station to another. These horses are either furnished by
the keeper of the station or some of the neighboring farmers, and when
they are wanted a man or boy goes along with the traveller to bring them
back. It would be quite an independent and convenient way of travelling,
if the horses were always ready; but sometimes you must wait an hour or
more before they can be furnished.
I had my own little sled, filled with hay and covered with reindeer
skins to keep me warm. So long as the weather was not too cold, it was
very pleasant to speed along through the dark forests, over the frozen
rivers, or past farm after farm in the sheltered valleys, up hill and
down until long after the stars came out, and then to get a warm supper
in some dark-red post cottage, while the cheerful people sang or told
stories around the fire. The cold increased a little every day, to be
sure, but I became gradually accustomed to it, and soon began to fancy
that the Arctic climate was not so difficult to endure as I had
supposed. At first the thermometer fell to zero; then it went down ten
degrees below; then twenty, and finally thirty. Being dressed in thick
furs from head to foot, I did not suffer greatly; but I was very glad
when the people assured me that such extreme cold never lasted more than
two or three days. Boys of twelve or fourteen very often went with me to
bring back their fathers’ horses, and so long as those lively,
red-cheeked fellows could face the weather, it would not do for me to be
afraid.
One night there was a wonderful aurora in the sky. The streamers of red
and blue light darted hither and thither, chasing each other up to the
zenith and down again to the northern horizon with a rapidity and a
brilliance which I had never seen before. “There will be a storm soon,”
said my post-boy; “one always comes after these lights.”
Next morning the sky was overcast, and the short day was as dark as our
twilight. But it was not quite so cold, and I travelled onward as fast
as possible. There was a long tract of wild and thinly settled country
before me and I wished to get through it before stopping for the night.
Unfortunately it happened that two lumber-merchants were travelling the
same way and had taken the horses; so I was obliged to wait at the
stations until horses were brought from the neighboring farms. This
delayed me so much that at seven o’clock in the evening I had still one
more station of three Swedish miles before reaching the village where I
had intended to spend the night. Now, a Swedish mile is nearly equal to
seven English, so that this station was at least twenty miles long.
[Illustration:
“Boys of twelve or fourteen very often went with me to bring back
their father’s horses”
Drawing by F. S. Coburn
]
I decided to take supper while the horse was eating his feed. They had
not expected any more travellers at the station, and were not prepared.
The keeper had gone on with the two lumber-merchants; but his wife—a
friendly, rosy-faced woman—prepared me some excellent coffee, potatoes,
and stewed reindeer-meat, upon which I made a satisfactory meal. The
house was on the border of a large, dark forest, and the roar of the icy
northern wind in the trees seemed to increase while I waited in the warm
room. I did not feel inclined to go forth into the wintry storm, but,
having set my mind on reaching the village that night, I was loath to
turn back.
“It is a bad night,” said the woman, “and my husband will certainly stay
at Umea until morning. His name is Niels Petersen, and I think you will
find him at the post-house when you get there. Lars will take you, and
they can come back together.”
“Who is Lars?” I asked.
“My son,” said she. “He is getting the horse ready. There is nobody else
about the house to-night.”
Just then the door opened, and in came Lars. He was about twelve years
old; but his face was so rosy, his eyes so clear and round and blue, and
his golden hair was blown back from his face in such silky curls, that
he appeared to be even younger. I was surprised that his mother should
be willing to send him twenty miles through the dark woods on such a
night.
“Come here, Lars,” I said. Then I took him by the hand, and asked, “Are
you not afraid to go so far to-night?”
He looked at me with wondering eyes, and smiled; and his mother made
haste to say: “You need not fear, sir. Lars is young, but he’ll take you
safe enough. If the storm doesn’t get worse, you’ll be at Umea by eleven
o’clock.”
I was again on the point of remaining; but while I was deliberating with
myself, the boy had put on his overcoat of sheep-skin, tied the lappets
of his fur cap under his chin and a thick woolen scarf around his nose
and mouth so that only the round blue eyes were visible, and then his
mother took down the mittens of hare’s fur from the stove, where they
had been hung to dry. He put them on, took a short leather whip, and was
ready.
I wrapped myself in my furs, and we went out together. The driving snow
cut me in the face like needles, but Lars did not mind it in the least.
He jumped into the sled, which he had filled with fresh, soft hay,
tucked in the reindeer-skins at the sides, and we cuddled together on
the narrow seat, making everything close and warm before we set out. I
could not see at all, when the door of the house was shut, and the horse
started on the journey. The night was dark, the snow blew incessantly,
and the dark fir-trees roared all around us. Lars, however, knew the
way, and somehow or other we kept the beaten track. He talked to the
horse so constantly and so cheerfully, that after a while my own spirits
began to rise, and the way seemed neither so long nor so disagreeable.
“Ho there, Axel!” he would say. “Keep the road,—not too far to the left.
Well done. Here’s a level; now trot a bit.”
So we went on,—sometimes up hill, sometimes down hill,—for a long time,
as it seemed. I began to grow chilly, and even Lars handed me the reins,
while he swung and beat his arms to keep the blood in circulation. He no
longer sang little songs and fragments of hymns, as when we first set
out; but he was not in the least alarmed, or even impatient. Whenever I
asked (as I did about every five minutes), “Are we nearly there?” he
always answered, “A little farther.”
Suddenly the wind seemed to increase.
“Ah,” said he, “now I know where we are; it’s one mile more.” But one
mile, you must remember, meant _seven_.
Lars checked the horse, and peered anxiously from side to side in the
darkness. I looked also but could see nothing.
“What is the matter?” I finally asked.
“We have got past the hills on the left,” he said. “The country is open
to the wind, and here the snow drifts worse than anywhere else on the
road. If there have been no ploughs out to-night we’ll have trouble.”
You must know that the farmers along the road are obliged to turn out
with their horses and oxen, and plough down the drifts, whenever the
road is blocked up by a storm.
In less than a quarter of an hour we could see that the horse was
sinking in the deep snow. He plunged bravely forward, but made scarcely
any headway, and presently became so exhausted that he stood quite
still. Lars and I arose from the seat and looked around. For my part, I
saw nothing except some very indistinct shapes of trees; there was no
sign of an opening through them. In a few minutes the horse started
again, and with great labor carried us a few yards farther.
“Shall we get out and try to find the road?” said I.
“It’s no use,” Lars answered. “In these new drifts we would sink to the
waist. Wait a little, and we shall get through this one.”
It was as he said. Another pull brought us through the deep part of the
drift, and we reached a place where the snow was quite shallow. But it
was not the hard, smooth surface of the road; we could feel that the
ground was uneven, and covered with roots and bushes. Bidding Axel stand
still, Lars jumped out of the sled, and began wading around among the
trees. Then I got out on the other side, but had not proceeded ten steps
before I began to sink so deeply into the loose snow that I was glad to
extricate myself and return. It was a desperate situation, and I
wondered how we should ever get out of it.
I shouted to Lars, in order to guide him, and it was not long before he
also came back to the sled. “If I knew where the road is,” said he, “I
could get into it again. But I don’t know; and I think we must stay here
all night.”
“We shall freeze to death in an hour!” I cried. I was already chilled to
the bone. The wind had made me very drowsy, and I knew that if I slept I
should soon be frozen.
“Oh, no!” exclaimed Lars cheerfully. “I am a Norrlander, and Norrlanders
never freeze. I went with the men to the bear-hunt, last winter, up on
the mountains, and we were several nights in the snow. Besides, I know
what my father did with a gentleman from Stockholm on this very road,
and we’ll do it to-night.”
“What was it?”
“Let me take care of Axel first,” said Lars. “We can spare him some hay
and one reindeer-skin.”
It was a slow and difficult task to unharness the horse, but we
accomplished it at last. Lars then led him under the drooping branches
of a fir-tree, tied him to one of them, gave him an armful of hay, and
fastened the reindeer-skin upon his back. Axel began to eat, as if
perfectly satisfied with the arrangement. The Norrland horses are so
accustomed to cold that they seem comfortable in a temperature where one
of ours would freeze.
When this was done, Lars spread the remaining hay evenly over the bottom
of the sled and covered it with the skins, which he tucked in very
firmly on the side towards the wind. Then, lifting them on the other
side, he said: “Now take off your fur coat, quick, lay it over the hay,
and then creep under it.”
I obeyed as rapidly as possible. For an instant I shuddered in the icy
air; but the next moment I lay stretched in the bottom of the sled,
sheltered from the storm. I held up the ends of the reindeer-skins while
Lars took off his coat and crept in beside me. Then we drew the skins
down and pressed the hay against them. When the wind seemed to be
entirely excluded Lars said we must pull off our boots, untie our
scarfs, and so loosen our clothes that they would not feel tight upon
any part of the body. When this was done, and we lay close together,
warming each other, I found that the chill gradually passed out of my
blood. My hands and feet were no longer numb; a delightful feeling of
comfort crept over me; and I lay as snugly as in the best bed. I was
surprised to find that, although my head was covered, I did not feel
stifled. Enough air came in under the skins to prevent us from feeling
oppressed.
There was barely room for the two of us to lie, with no chance of
turning over or rolling about. In five minutes, I think, we were sound
asleep, and I dreamed of gathering peaches on a warm August day at home.
In fact, I did not wake up thoroughly during the night; neither did
Lars, though it seemed to me that we both talked in our sleep. But as I
must have talked English and he Swedish, there could have been no
connection between our remarks. I remember that his warm, soft hair
pressed against my chin, and that his feet reached no further than my
knees. Just as I was beginning to feel a little cramped and stiff from
lying so still I was suddenly aroused by the cold wind on my face. Lars
had risen up on his elbow, and was peeping out from under the skins.
“I think it must be near six o’clock,” he said. “The sky is clear, and I
can see the big star. We can start in another hour.”
I felt so much refreshed that I was for setting out immediately; but
Lars remarked, very sensibly, that it was not yet possible to find the
road. While we were talking, Axel neighed.
“There they are!” cried Lars, and immediately began to put on his boots,
his scarf and heavy coat. I did the same, and by the time we were ready
we heard shouts and the crack of whips. We harnessed Axel to the sled,
and proceeded slowly in the direction of the sounds, which came, as we
presently saw, from a company of farmers, out thus early to plough the
road. They had six pairs of horses geared to a wooden frame, something
like the bow of a ship, pointed in front and spreading out to a breadth
of ten or twelve feet. The machine not only cut through the drifts but
packed the snow, leaving a good, solid road behind it. After it had
passed, we sped along merrily in the cold morning twilight and in little
more than an hour reached the post-house at Umea, where we found Lars’s
father prepared to return home. He waited, nevertheless, until Lars had
eaten a good warm breakfast, when I said good-bye to both, and went on
towards Lapland.
Some weeks afterwards, on my return to Stockholm, I stopped at the same
little station. This time the weather was mild and bright, and the
father would have gone with me to the next post-house; but I preferred
to take my little bed-fellow and sled-fellow. He was so quiet and
cheerful and fearless that, although I had been nearly all over the
world, and he had never been away from home,—although I was a man and he
a young boy,—I felt that I had learned a lesson from him, and might
probably learn many more, if I should know him better. We had a merry
trip of two or three hours, and then I took leave of Lars forever. He is
no doubt still driving travellers over the road, a handsome, courageous,
honest-hearted young man, perhaps with his own son growing up to take
his place, and help some later stranger like myself through a winter
storm.
II
The Pasha’s Son
A good many years ago I spent a winter in Africa. I had intended to go
up the Nile only as far as Nubia, visiting the great temples and tombs
of Thebes on the way; but when I had done all this, and passed beyond
the cataracts at the southern boundary of Egypt, I found the journey so
agreeable, so full of interest, and attended with so much less danger
than I had supposed, that I determined to go on for a month or two
longer, and penetrate as far as possible into the interior. Everything
was favorable to my plan. I crossed the great Nubian Desert without
accident or adventure, reached the ancient region of Ethiopia, and
continued my journey until I had advanced beyond all the cataracts of
the Nile, to the point where the two great branches of the river flow
together.
This point, which you will find on your maps in the country called
Sennaar, bordering Abyssinia on the northwestern side, has become very
important within the last twenty or thirty years. The Egyptians, after
conquering the country, established there their seat of government for
all that part of Africa, and very soon a large and busy town arose where
formerly there had only been a few mud huts of the natives. The town is
called Khartoum, and I suppose it must contain, by this time, forty or
fifty thousand inhabitants. It is built on a sandy plain, studded here
and there with clumps of thorny trees. On the east side the Blue Nile,
the source of which was discovered by the Scotch traveller, Bruce, in
the last century, comes down clear and swift from the mountains of
Abyssinia; on the west, the broad, shallow, muddy current of the White
Nile, which rises in the great lakes discovered by Speke and Baker
within the last twenty years, makes its appearance. The two rivers meet
just below the town, and flow as a single stream to the Mediterranean, a
distance of fifteen hundred miles.
Formerly all this part of Africa was considered very wild, barbarous,
and dangerous to the traveller. But since it has been brought under the
rule of the Egyptian government, the people have been forced to respect
the lives and property of strangers, and travelling has become
comparatively safe. I soon grew so accustomed to the ways of the
inhabitants that by the time I reached Khartoum I felt quite at home
among them. My experience had already taught me that, where a traveller
was badly treated, it was generally his own fault. You must not despise
a people because they are ignorant, because their habits are different,
or because they sometimes annoy you by a natural curiosity. I found that
by acting in a kind yet firm manner towards them, and preserving my
patience and good-nature, even when it was tried by their slow and
careless ways, I avoided all trouble, and even acquired their friendly
good-will.
When I reached Khartoum, the Austrian Consul invited me to his house;
and there I spent three or four weeks in that strange town, making
acquaintance with the Egyptian officers, the chiefs of the desert
tribes, and the former kings of the different countries of Ethiopia.
When I left my boat, on arriving, and walked through the narrow streets
of Khartoum, between mud walls, very few of which were even whitewashed,
I thought it a miserable place, and began to look out for some garden
where I might pitch my tent, rather than live in one of those
dirty-looking habitations. The wall around the Consul’s house was of mud
like the others; but when I entered I found clean, handsome rooms which
furnished delightful shade and coolness during the heat of the day. The
roof was of palm-logs, covered with mud, which the sun baked into a hard
mass, so that the house was in reality as good as a brick dwelling. It
was a great deal more comfortable than it appeared from the outside.
There were other features of the place, however, which it would be
difficult to find anywhere except in Central Africa. After I had taken
possession of my room, and eaten breakfast with my host, I went out to
look at the garden. On each side of the steps leading down from the door
sat two apes, who barked and snapped at me. The next thing I saw was a
leopard tied to the trunk of an orange-tree. I did not dare to go within
reach of his rope, although I afterwards became well acquainted with
him. A little farther, there was a pen full of gazelles and an antelope
with immense horns; then two fierce, bristling hyenas; and at last,
under a shed beside the stable, a full-grown lioness, sleeping in the
shade. I was greatly surprised when the Consul went up to her, lifted up
her head, opened her jaws so as to show the shining white tusks, and
finally sat down upon her back.
She accepted these familiarities so good-naturedly that I made bold to
pat her head also. In a day or two we were great friends; she would
spring about with delight whenever she saw me, and would purr like a cat
whenever I sat down upon her back. I spent an hour or two every day
among the animals, and found them all easy to tame except the hyenas,
which would gladly have bitten me if I had allowed them a chance. The
leopard, one day, bit me slightly in the hand; but I punished him by
pouring several buckets of water over him, and he was always very
amiable after that. The beautiful little gazelles would cluster around
me, thrusting up their noses into my hand, and saying, “_Wow! wow!_” as
plainly as I write it. But none of these animals attracted me so much as
the big lioness. She was always good-humored, though occasionally so
lazy that she would not even open her eyes when I sat down on her
shoulder. She would sometimes catch my foot in her paws as a kitten
catches a ball, and try to make a plaything of it,—yet always without
thrusting out her claws. Once she opened her mouth and gently took one
of my legs in her jaws for a moment; and the very next instant she put
out her tongue and licked my hand. There seemed to be almost as much of
the dog as of the cat in her nature. We all know, however, that there
are differences of character among animals, as there are among men; and
my favorite probably belonged to a virtuous and respectable family of
lions.
The day after my arrival I went with the Consul to visit the Pasha, who
lived in a large mud palace on the bank of the Blue Nile. He received us
very pleasantly, and invited us to take seats in the shady courtyard.
Here there was a huge panther tied to one of the pillars, while a little
lion, about eight months old, ran about perfectly loose. The Pasha
called the latter, which came springing and frisking towards him. “Now,”
said he, “we will have some fun.” He then made the lion lie down behind
one of the pillars, and called to one of the black boys to go across the
courtyard on some errand. The lion lay quite still until the boy came
opposite to the pillar, when he sprang out and after him. The boy ran,
terribly frightened; but the lion reached him in five or six leaps,
sprang upon his back and threw him down, and then went back to the
pillar as if quite satisfied with his exploit. Although the boy was not
hurt in the least, it seemed to me like a cruel piece of fun. The Pasha,
nevertheless, laughed very heartily, and told us that he had himself
trained the lion to frighten the boys.
Presently the little lion went away, and when we came to look for him,
we found him lying on one of the tables in the kitchen of the palace,
apparently very much interested in watching the cook. The latter told us
that the animal sometimes took small pieces of meat, but seemed to know
that it was not permitted, for he would run away afterwards in great
haste. What I saw of lions during my residence in Khartoum satisfied me
that they are not very difficult to tame,—only, as they belong to the
cat family, no dependence can be placed on their continued good
behavior.
Among the Egyptian officers in the city was a Pasha named Rufah, who had
been banished from Egypt by the Viceroy. He was a man of considerable
education and intelligence, and was very unhappy at being sent away from
his home and family. The climate of Khartoum is very unhealthy, and this
unfortunate Pasha had suffered greatly from fever. He was uncertain how
long his exile would continue; he had been there already two years, and
as all the letters directed to him passed through the hands of the
officers of government, he was quite at a loss how to get any help from
his friends. What he had done to cause his banishment, I could not
ascertain; probably he did not know himself. There are no elections in
those Eastern countries; the people have nothing to do with the choice
of their own rulers. The latter are appointed by the Viceroy at his
pleasure, and hold office only so long as he allows them. The envy or
jealousy of one Pasha may lead to the ruin of another, without any fault
on the part of the latter. Probably somebody else wanted Rufah Pasha’s
place, and slandered him to the Viceroy for the sake of getting him
removed and exiled.
The unhappy man inspired my profound sympathy. Sometimes he would spend
the evening with the Consul and myself, because he felt safe in our
presence, to complain of the tyranny under which he suffered. When we
met him at the houses of the other Egyptian officers, he was very
careful not to talk on the subject, lest they should report the fact to
the government.
Being a foreigner and a stranger, I never imagined that I could be of
any service to Rufah Pasha. I did not speak the language well, I knew
very little of the laws and regulations of the country, and moreover, I
intended simply to pass through Egypt on my return. Nevertheless, one
night, when we happened to be walking the streets together, he whispered
that he had something special to say to me. Although it was bright
moonlight, we had a native servant with us, to carry a lantern. The
Pasha ordered the servant to walk on in advance; and a turn of the
narrow, crooked streets soon hid him from our sight. Everything was
quiet, except the rustling of the wind in the palm-trees which rose
above the garden-walls.
“Now,” said the Pasha, taking my hand, “now we can talk for a few
minutes, without being overheard. I want you to do me a favor.”
“Willingly,” I answered, “if it is in my power.”
“It will not give you much trouble,” he said, “and may be of great
service to me. I want you to take two letters to Egypt,—one to my son,
who lives in the town of Tahtah, and one to Mr. Murray, the English
Consul-General, whom you know. I cannot trust the Egyptian merchants,
because, if these letters were opened and read, I might be kept here
many years longer. If you deliver them safely, my friends will know how
to assist me, and perhaps I may soon be allowed to return home.”
I promised to deliver both letters with my own hands, and the Pasha
parted from me in more cheerful spirits at the door of the Consul’s
house. After a few days I was ready to set out on the return journey;
but, according to custom, I was first obliged to make farewell visits to
all the officers of the government. It was very easy to apprise Rufah
Pasha beforehand of my intention, and he had no difficulty in slipping
the letters into my hand without the action being observed by any one. I
put them into my portfolio, with my own letters and papers, where they
were entirely safe, and said nothing about the matter to any one in
Khartoum.
Although I was glad to leave that wild town, with its burning climate,
and retrace the long way back to Egypt, across the Desert and down the
Nile, I felt very sorry at being obliged to take leave forever of all my
pets. The little gazelles said, “_Wow! Wow!_” in answer to my
“Good-bye”; the hyenas howled and tried to bite, just as much as ever;
but the dear old lioness I know would have been sorry if she could have
understood that I was going. She frisked around me, licked my hand, and
I took her great tawny head into my arms, and gave her a kiss. Since
then I have never had a lion for a pet, and may never have one again. I
must confess, I am sorry for it; for I still retain my love for lions
(four-footed ones, I mean) to this day.
Well, it was a long journey, and I should have to write many days in
order to describe it. I should have to tell of fierce sand-storms in the
Desert; of resting in palm-groves near the old capital of Ethiopia; of
plodding day after day, through desolate landscapes, on the back of a
camel, crossing stony ranges of mountains, to reach the Nile again, and
then floating down with the current in an open boat. It was nearly two
months before I could deliver the first of the Pasha’s letters,—that
which he had written to his son. The town of Tahtah is in Upper Egypt,
near Siout; you will hardly find it on the maps. It stands on a little
mound, several miles from the Nile, and is surrounded by the rich and
beautiful plain which is every year overflowed by the river.
There was a head wind, and my boat could not proceed very fast; so I
took my faithful servant, Achmet, and set out on foot, taking a path
which led over the plain between beautiful wheat-fields and orchards of
lemon-trees. In an hour or two we reached Tahtah,—a queer, dark old
town, with high houses and narrow streets. The doors and balconies were
of carved wood, and the windows were covered with lattices, so that no
one could look in, although those inside could easily look out. There
were a few sleepy merchants in the bazaar, smoking their pipes and
enjoying the odors of cinnamon and dried roses which floated in the air.
After some little inquiry, I found Rufah Pasha’s house, but was not
admitted, because the Egyptian women are not allowed to receive the
visits of strangers. There was a shaded entrance-hall, open to the
street, where I was requested to sit, while the black serving-woman went
to the school to bring the Pasha’s son. She first borrowed a pipe from
one of the merchants in the bazaar, and brought it to me. Achmet and I
sat there, while the people of the town, who had heard that we came from
Khartoum and knew the Pasha, gathered around to ask questions.
They were all very polite and friendly, and seemed as glad to hear about
the Pasha as if they belonged to his family. In a quarter of an hour the
woman came back, followed by the Pasha’s son and the schoolmaster, who
had dismissed his school in order to hear the news. The boy was about
eleven years old, but tall for his age. He had a fair face, and large
dark eyes, and smiled pleasantly when he saw me. If I had not known
something of the customs of the people, I should have given him my hand,
perhaps drawn him between my knees, put an arm around his waist and
talked familiarly; but I thought it best to wait and see how he would
behave towards me.
He first made me a graceful salutation, just as a man would have done,
then took my hand and gently touched it to his heart, lips, and
forehead, after which he took his seat on the high divan, or bench, by
my side. Here he again made a salutation, clapped his hands thrice, to
summon the woman, and ordered coffee to be brought.
“Is your Excellency in good health?” he asked.
“Very well, praised be Allah!” I answered.
“Has your Excellency any commands for me? You have but to speak; you
shall be obeyed.”
“You are very kind,” said I; “but I have need of nothing. I bring you
greetings from the Pasha, your father, and this letter, which I promised
him to deliver into your own hands.”
Thereupon I handed him the letter, which he laid to his heart and lips
before opening. As he found it a little difficult to read, he summoned
the schoolmaster, and they read it together in a whisper.
In the meantime coffee was served in little cups, and a very handsome
pipe was brought by somebody for my use. After he had read the letter,
the boy turned to me with his face a little flushed, and his eyes
sparkling, and said, “Will your Excellency permit me to ask whether you
have another letter?”
“Yes,” I answered; “but it is not to be delivered here.”
“That is right,” said he. “When will you reach Cairo?”
“It depends on the wind; but I hope in seven days from now.”
The boy again whispered to the schoolmaster, but presently they both
nodded, as if satisfied, and nothing more was said on the subject.
Some sherbet (which is nothing but lemonade flavored with rose-water)
and pomegranates were then brought to me, and the boy asked whether I
would not honor him by remaining during the rest of the day. If I had
not seen his face, I should have supposed I was visiting a man,—so
dignified and self-possessed and graceful was the little fellow. The
people looked on as if they were quite accustomed to such mature manners
in children. I was obliged to use as much ceremony with the child as if
he had been the governor of the town. But he interested me,
nevertheless, and I felt curious to know the subject of his consultation
with the schoolmaster. I was sure they were forming some plan to have
the Pasha recalled from exile.
After two or three hours I left, in order to overtake my boat, which was
slowly working its way down the Nile. The boy arose, and walked by my
side to the end of the town, the other people following us. When we came
out upon the plain, he took leave of me with the same salutations, and
the words, “May God grant your Excellency a prosperous journey!”
“May God grant it!” I responded; and all the people repeated, “May God
grant it!”
The whole interview seemed to me like a scene out of the _Arabian
Nights_. To me it was a pretty, picturesque experience, which cannot be
forgotten; to the people, no doubt, it was an every day matter.
When I reached Cairo, I delivered the other letter, and in a fortnight
afterwards left Egypt; so that I could not ascertain, at the time,
whether anything had been done to forward the Pasha’s hopes. Some months
afterwards, however, I read in a European newspaper, quite accidentally,
that Rufah Pasha had returned to Egypt from Khartoum. I was delighted
with the news; and I shall always believe, and insist upon it, that the
Pasha’s wise and dignified little son had a hand in bringing about the
fortunate result.
III
Jon of Iceland
I
The boys of Iceland must be content with very few acquaintances and
playmates. The valleys which produce grass enough for the farmer’s
ponies, cattle, and sheep are generally scattered widely apart, divided
by ridges of lava so hard and cold that only a few wild flowers succeed
in growing in their cracks and hollows. Then, since the farms must be
all the larger, because the grass is short and grows slowly in such a
severe northern climate, the dwellings are rarely nearer than four or
five miles apart; and were it not for their swift and nimble ponies, the
people would see very little of each other except on Sundays, when they
ride long distances to attend worship in their little wooden churches.
But of all boys in the island, not one was so lonely in his situation as
Jon Sigurdson. His father lived many miles beyond that broad, grassy
plain which stretches from the Geysers to the sea, on the banks of the
swift river Thiörvǎ. On each side there were mountains so black and bare
that they looked like gigantic piles of coal; but the valley opened to
the southward as if to let the sun in, and far away, when the weather
was clear, the snowy top of Mount Hecla shone against the sky. The
farmer Sigurd, Jon’s father, was a poor man, or he would not have
settled so far away from any neighbors; for he was of a cheerful and
social nature, and there were few at Kyrkedal who could vie with him in
knowledge of the ancient history and literature of Iceland.
The house was built on a knoll, under a cliff which sheltered it from
the violent west and northwest winds. The walls, of lava stones and
turf, were low and broad; and the roofs over dwelling, storehouses, and
stables were covered deep with earth, upon which grew such excellent
grass that the ponies were fond of climbing up the sloping corners of
the wall in order to get at it. Sometimes they might be seen, cunningly
balanced on the steep sides of the roof, grazing along the very
ridge-poles, or looking over the end of the gable when some member of
the family came out of the door, as much as to say, “Get me down if you
can!” Around the buildings there was a square wall of enclosure, giving
the place the appearance of a little fortress.
On one side of the knoll a hot spring bubbled up. In the morning or
evening, when the air was cool, quite a little column of steam arose
from it, whirling and broadening as it melted away; but the water was
pure and wholesome as soon as it became cold enough for use. In front of
the house, where the sun shone warmest, Sigurd had laid out a small
garden. It was a great labor for him to remove the huge stones and roll
them into a protecting wall, to carry good soil from the places where
the mountain rills had gradually washed it down from above, and to
arrange it so that frosts and cold rains should do the least harm; and
the whole family thought themselves suddenly rich, one summer, when they
pulled their first radishes, saw the little bed of potatoes coming into
blossom, and the cabbages rolling up their leaves in order to make, at
least, baby-heads before the winter came.
Within the house, all was low and dark and dismal. The air was very
close and bad, for the stables were only separated from the
dwelling-room by a narrow passage, and bunches of dry salt fish hung on
the walls. Besides, it was usually full of smoke from the fire of peat,
and, after a rain, of steam from Sigurd’s and Jon’s heavy woollen coats.
But to the boy it was a delightful, a comfortable home, for within it he
found shelter, warmth, food, and instruction. The room for visitors
seemed to him the most splendid place in the world, because it had a
wooden floor, a window with six panes of glass, a colored print of the
King of Denmark, and a geranium in a pot. This was so precious a plant
that Jon and his sister Gudrid hardly dared to touch its leaves. They
were almost afraid to smell it, for fear of sniffing away some of its
life; and Gudrid, after seeing a leaf of it laid on her dead sister’s
bosom, insisted that some angel, many hundred years ago, had brought the
seed straight down from heaven.
These were Sigurd’s only children. There had been several more, but they
had died in infancy, from the want of light and pure air, and the great
distance from help when sickness came. Gudrid was still pale and
slender, except in summer, when her mild, friendly face took color from
the sun; but Jon, who was now fourteen, was a sturdy, broad-breasted
boy, who promised to be as strong as his father in a few years more. He
had thick yellow hair, curling a little around his forehead; large
bright blue eyes; and a mouth rather too broad for beauty, if the lips
had not been so rosy and the teeth so white and firm. He had a serious
look, but it was only because he smiled with his eyes oftener than with
his mouth. He was naturally true and good, for he hardly knew what evil
was. Except his parents and his sister he saw no one for weeks at a
time; and when he met other boys after church at Kyrkedal, so much time
was always lost in shyly looking at each other and shrinking from the
talk which each wanted to begin, that no very intimate acquaintance
followed.
But in spite of his lonely life, Jon was far from being ignorant. There
were the long winter months, when the ponies—and sometimes the
sheep—pawed holes in the snow in order to reach the grass on the bottoms
beside the river; when the cows were warmly stabled and content with
their meals of boiled hay; when the needful work of the day could be
done in an hour or two, and then Sigurd sat down to teach his children,
while their mother spun or knit beside them, and from time to time took
part in the instruction. Jon could already read and write so well that
the pastor at Kyrkedal lent him many an old Icelandic legend to copy; he
knew the history of the island, as well as that of Norway and Denmark,
and could answer (with a good deal of blushing) when he was addressed in
Latin. He also knew something of the world, and its different countries
and climates; but this knowledge seemed to him like a strange dream, or
like something that happened long ago and never could happen again. He
was accustomed to hear a little birch-bush, four or five feet high,
called “a tree,” and he could not imagine how any tree could be a
hundred feet high, or bear flowers and fruit. Once, a trader from
Rejkiavik—the chief seaport of Iceland—brought a few oranges to
Kyrkedal, and Sigurd purchased one for Jon and Gudrid. The children kept
it day after day, never tired of enjoying the splendid color and
strange, delightful perfume; so when they decided to cut the rind at
last the pulp was dried up and tasteless. A city was something of which
Jon could form no conception, for he had never even seen Rejkiavik; he
imagined that palaces and cathedrals were like large Icelandic
farm-houses, with very few windows and turf growing on the roofs.
II
Sigurd’s wealth, if it could be called so, was in a small flock of
sheep, the pasture for which was scattered in patches for miles up and
down the river. The care of these sheep had been intrusted chiefly to
Jon, ever since he was eight years old, and he had learned their natures
and ways—their simple animal virtues and silly animal vices—so
thoroughly that they acquired a great respect for him, and very rarely
tried to be disobedient. Even Thor, the ram, although he sometimes
snorted and tossed his horns in protest, or stamped impatiently with his
forefeet, heeded his master’s voice. In fact, the sheep became Jon’s
companions, in the absence of human ones; he talked to them so much
during the lonely days that it finally seemed as if they understood a
great deal of his speech.
There was a rough bridle-path leading up the valley of the Thiörvǎ; but
it was rarely travelled, for it struck northward into the cold, windy,
stony desert which fills all the central part of Iceland. For a hundred
and fifty miles there was no dwelling, no shelter from the fierce and
sudden storms, and so little grass that the travellers who sometimes
crossed the region ran the risk of losing their ponies from starvation.
There were lofty plains of black rock, as hard as iron; groups of bare,
snowy-headed mountains; and often, at night, you could see a pillar of
fire in the distance, showing that one of the many volcanoes was in
action. Beyond this terrible wilderness the grassy valleys began again,
and there were houses and herds, increasing as you came down to the
bright bays along the northern shore of the island.
[Illustration:
“In fact the sheep became Jon’s companions in the absence of human
ones”
Drawing by F. S. Coburn
]
More than once, a trader or government messenger, after crossing the
desert, had rested for a night under Sigurd’s roof; and many were the
tales of their adventures which Jon had treasured up in his memory.
Sometimes they spoke of the _trolls_ or mischievous fairies who came
over with the first settlers from Norway, and were still supposed by
many persons to lurk among the dark glens of Iceland. Both Sigurd and
the pastor at Kyrkedal had declared that there were no such creatures,
and Jon believed them faithfully; yet he could not help wondering as he
sat upon some rocky knoll overlooking his sheep, whether a strange
little figure _might_ not come out of the chasm opposite, and speak to
him. The more he heard of the terrors and dangers of the desert to the
northward, the more he longed to see them with his own eyes and know
them through his own experience. He was not the least afraid; but he
knew that his father would never allow him to go alone, and to disobey a
father was something of which he had never heard, and could not have
believed to be possible.
When he was in his fifteenth year, however (it was summer, and he was
fourteen in April), there came several weeks when no rain fell in the
valley. It was a lovely season for the garden; even the geranium in the
window put forth twice as many scarlet blossoms as ever before. Only the
sheep began to hunger; for the best patch of grass in front of the house
was carefully kept for hay, and the next best, further down the river,
for the ponies. So Jon was obliged to lead his flock to a narrow little
dell, which came down to the Thiörvǎ, three or four miles to the
northward. Here, for a week they nibbled diligently wherever anything
green showed itself at the foot of the black rocks; and when the pasture
grew scanty again, they began to stare at Jon in a way which many
persons might have thought stupid. _He_ understood them; they meant to
say: “We’ve nearly finished this; find us something more!”
That evening, as he was leading his flock into the little enclosure
beside the dwelling, he heard his father and mother talking. He thought
it no harm to listen, for they had never said anything that was not kind
and friendly. It seemed, however, that they were speaking of him, and
the very first words he heard made his heart beat more rapidly.
“Two days’ journey away,” said Sigurd, “are excellent pastures that
belong to nobody. There is no sign of rain yet, and if we could send Jon
with the sheep——”
“Are you sure of it?” his wife asked.
“Eyvindur stopped to talk with me,” he answered; “and he saw the place
this morning. He says there were rains in the desert, and, indeed, I’ve
thought so myself, because the river has not fallen; and he never knew
as pleasant a season to cross the country.”
“Jon might have to stay out a week or two; but, as you say, Sigurd, we
should save our flock. The boy may be trusted, I’m sure; only, if
anything should happen to him?”
“I don’t think he’s fearsome,” said Sigurd; “and what should happen to
him there that might not happen near home?”
They moved away, while Jon clasped the palms of his hands hard against
each other, and stood still for a minute to repeat to himself all he had
heard. He knew Eyvindur, the tall, strong man with the dark, curling
hair, who rode the swift, cream-colored pony with black mane and tail.
He knew what his father meant—nothing else than that he, Jon, should
take the sheep two days’ journey away, to the very edge of the terrible
wilderness, and pasture them there, alone, probably for many days! Why,
Columbus, when he set sail from Palos, could not have had a brighter
dream of unknown lands! Jon went in to supper in such a state of
excitement that he hardly touched the dried fish and hard oaten bread;
but he drank two huge bowls of milk and still felt thirsty. When, at
last, Sigurd opened his lips and spake, and the mother sat silent with
her eyes fixed upon her son’s face, and Gudrid looked frightened, Jon
straightened himself as if he were already a man, and quietly said:
“I’ll do it!”
He wanted to shout aloud for joy; but Gudrid began to cry.
However, when a thing had once been decided in the family, that was the
end of any question or remonstrance, and even Gudrid forgot her fears in
the interest of preparing a supply of food for Jon during his absence.
They slept soundly for a few hours; and then, at two o’clock in the
morning, when the sun was already shining on the snowy tops of the Arne
Mountains, Jon hung the bag of provisions over his shoulder, kissed his
parents and sister, and started northward, driving the sheep before him.
III