Switzerland, and Italy; but I bethought me of the delightful and
romantic scenery of our own dear land, with its infinitely varied
beauties; the endless pleasure I would have in viewing them, in all
their bearings, from the dark frowning passes in the Highlands, where
rock rises piled upon rock, and the impetuous cataract makes the
stoutest eye reel in looking on it, to the wimpling stream that glides
through some bosky dell, where wild flowers spangle the banks, driving
some village mill, whose distant clack, mingling with the murmur of the
stream and the song of birds from the woods, forms a concert so sweet to
the lover of nature. Without an object further than amusement, Malcolm
and I jogged on for the Falls of the Clyde. Early in the afternoon, we
arrived in Lanark, where I resolved to stop for a few days; and leaving
Malcolm at the inn, looking after the horses, I walked out by the West
Port, to visit the Falls of Stonebyres. I descended the steep brae to
the old bridge, where I sat for some time, enjoying the sweep of the
river, which was considerably swollen at the time, and the falls were in
great magnificence. I could hear the roar of the waters as they dashed
over from fall to fall, and perceive the grey mist that rose from the
abyss. As I sat absorbed in the scene, a venerable personage, evidently
of the class of farmers in the neighbourhood, came to me, and, after the
salutation of strangers, he seated himself upon the parapet by my side,
and joined in conversation and anecdote of the scenes around. He agreed
with me that Clyde was a lovely stream; but added, it was a bloody one.
I felt shocked at such an epithet being applied to the object of my
present admiration, and requested his reason for it.
"O sir," he said, "my reason is too good for giving it that name; it
has been the grave of thousands, and will yet swallow more in its greedy
bosom. My only son, the hope of my declining years, perished in its
waves; and even here where we sit, before this bridge was built, a scene
of heroic fortitude and resignation was exhibited to sorrowing numbers,
who could render no aid--a scene indeed not surpassed in ancient or
modern history."
Struck by his manner, I requested him to give me the account as he had
heard it.
"You shall hear it," said he, "as I had it when a boy, from my
grandfather, who was one of the sorrowing witnesses of the event. There
lived, in a cottage on the banks, some distance up the stream from where
we are at present, a pious and industrious man, who had a very small
farm attached to the ferry, which he rented; the boat that plied across
the river for the accommodation of passengers was his principal support.
He was very poor, and had a numerous family--very young--to provide for
by his exertions. The river was much swollen by heavy rains which had
fallen for some days. It was the day of the fair at Lanark, and he
rejoiced in the gains he should acquire. He was resolute and athletic,
and, from long practice, knew the ferry well. The labours of the day had
passed off with cheerfulness; the river had continued to rise rapidly,
the evening was coming on, and the last boat-load, among whom was my
grandfather, were embarked. He pushed out into the stream, and,
skilfully as he manoeuvred his boat, the river carried them down
considerably below the usual landing place. The steady boatman, of all
that were in danger, was alone collected, and free from alarm. His wife,
who stood on the side with an infant in her arms, mingled cries and
prayers with the roaring of the swollen river. At length he neared the
side at an eddy, and the passengers waded to the green banks. His wife
and all called to him to step out also, and haul the boat out of the
stream; but they implored him in vain, for he relied too much upon his
own skill and strength, and heeded them not. Two or three passengers
stood on the opposite bank, wishing to cross also; and the temptation of
a few more pence induced him to push again into the angry stream, after
a kind assurance to his wife, and those with her, that there was no
danger. Scarce had he spoke, when it was evident that he and the boat
were as much the sport of the swollen Clyde, as a withered leaf. The
skiff shot along like an arrow towards the fall. A wild scream arose
from both sides of the river; all aid was out of human power, yet no cry
for help escaped him; he sat down with calm resignation, pulled his
bonnet over his eyes, and, muffling his face in his plaid, cried--'Jesus
have mercy!' and, ere the sounds died away, he was swept over the
tremendous fall, and perished."
The scene seemed to pass before me, as I listened to him, and gazed
upon the stream. We parted, and I proceeded to view the fearfully
majestic spot, where the river on my right, increasing its angry
roarings, gushed over the awful rock. Descending the footpath on my
right, the whole scene of terror and grandeur burst upon me. The evening
was approaching apace, and slowly and reluctantly I began to ascend,
after having scrambled to almost every accessible spot on the side where
I was. So much did the noise and sublimity affect me, that I felt one of
my unsettled fits stealing over my mind. Strange thoughts began to
arise. I quickened my pace until I reached the top of the height; and
the glorious view--the beautiful sloping braes of Nemplar, and the
village gilded by the beams of the setting sun--burst upon me. I again
longed for a view of the magnificent fan-looking cascade from a new
point; and so imperative was my desire that I never thought of the
danger. Stepping to the brink of the chasm, where the fearful tumult
raged many feet below, I could only catch an angular glance; and, to
extend it, I caught a bush, and leaned forward upon one hand and my
knees. Dreadful moment! horrid recollection!--I felt the bank giving
way. A convulsive effort to regain my equilibrium, and a stifled cry for
mercy, are all I recollect--my heart collapsed, and all consciousness
ceased.
How long I continued in this state I have no means of ascertaining; my
first sensation was a sickness that almost made me again relapse into
insensibility, accompanied by a feeling of pain in all my limbs.
Languidly I opened my eyes; all was dark as midnight. The roar of the
waters stupified every sense. The horrors of my situation chilled my
soul, and annihilated all my courage. How I retained, by the energies of
despair, unaided by reason, my half pendulous position, I cannot
explain. I was, for a time after consciousness returned, incapable of
reflection; my mind, a chaos of fear and horror. I felt wet to the skin,
from the thin spray, which fell upon and enveloped me like a cloud; a
profuse sweat stood upon my forehead, and rolling down in large drops,
made my eyes smart. I grasped something that sustained me, yet I
scarcely knew how. Gradually the sickness left me, and cool thoughts of
my perilous situation began to occupy my mind; my energies and native
desire of preservation began to strengthen. My first care was to
ascertain if any of my bones were broken. My legs hung over a ledge of
the rock, upon which the rest of my body lay supported by my hands,
which still clung to the small object I had grasped; cautiously I moved
my legs, the one after the other: no bone was broken; but I found them
painful in many places. Still clinging to my hold, on which I felt my
whole chance of escape from being plunged into the gulf below depended,
I, for some time, and by many useless efforts, attempted to get my knees
upon the ledge of rock; my position was becoming every minute more
painful, and I less able to retain it; my arms were benumbed, and my
hands powerless, from being so long above my head. I dared not pull
myself up, for the falling of stones and earth, when I first made the
attempt, gave fearful note of the feeble tenure by which I was
sustained. My left hand began to cramp; the fear of instant annihilation
seized me; I could hold by it no longer. I grasped still more firmly by
my right, and, stretching my left, found relief, by moving it gently
about, to restore the circulation. I dared not bring it down, lest the
other had failed; and, stretching farther than I had yet done, it
touched something hard and erect; it was the stem of a stoutish bush,
that grew out of a crevice in the rock. A ray of hope darted through my
mind. I grasped it, still keeping my first hold, and got my knees on the
ledge. To stand on my feet was now an easy effort. The joy of that
movement, in the midst of my sufferings and despair, I shall never
forget. I felt as if snatched from the roaring abyss. My nearly
exhausted strength began to be renewed; I felt comparative comfort; yet
I would have given all I possessed for my deliverance; my escape was not
yet more certain, or my situation much less perilous. I found that I
still held clutched in my right hand the bush that had given way, and
been the cause of my disaster; but how far I had fallen, or at what part
of the hideous chasm I had been mercifully arrested, I had no means to
ascertain; for I stood, like a Russian peasant ready to receive the
knout, with my face to the wall of rocks. I looked to the right side and
to the left; all was the most impenetrable darkness. My arms, now that
the weight of my body was taken from them, felt if possible more
benumbed. I groped with my feet as far as I could, and found my standing
very narrow, but inclining rather into than from the rock. I loosened
one hand, and with an effort, that I thought would have dislocated my
shoulder, brought it to my side. The tingling sensation I felt from the
returning circulation, almost made me cry aloud. As I found that I still
stood firm, I undid the grasp of my left hand, but not before I had
turned my face from the rock. I now stood facing the raging flood; but
its roaring was all I could distinguish. I now looked towards the
Heavens, and thought I could perceive the stars dimly, through the thick
cloud of spray in which I was involved. I leaned against the rocks, but
my legs began to fail me, and trembled under the weight of my body. I
was imperatively compelled, while strength remained, again to change my
posture, and at length succeeded, and seated myself upon the ledge, my
legs dangling over the edge.
Now, for the first time, I felt as if I were at ease, and began to
calculate on the chances of my escape--feeling that my situation was so
much improved that there was every reason to hope I should be able to
sit out the fearful night, be once more snatched from death, and witness
the dawn usher in the glorious orb of day, when I felt assured every
effort would be made for my rescue. I gazed intensely down the roaring
void, in hopes to see some indication that I was sought after. Malcolm I
knew would strain every nerve, nay, peril his own life, to save mine. I
thought I now could perceive first one dark red ball or light upon the
edge of the stream, quickly moving, followed by others. The blood-red
glare, as they approached, gradually became more bright, surrounded by a
lighter halo; but they threw no ray where I sat, anxiously watching
them. Their bearers were invisible from where I was. At length they came
nearer the whirling pool, and cast a red shade on the water, where it
shot over the last shelf. I could look no longer--my brain whirled, I
closed my eyes, I felt as if I would have fallen, even after they were
shut with all my force. I shouted with all my might, in hopes they might
hear my voice. Vain effort!--no sound less loud than the thunders of
Heaven could be distinguished amid the turmoil of waters.
Again I ventured to open my eyes. The lights had disappeared. I felt,
if possible, more forlorn than I had yet done; my heart began to sink; I
laid myself along upon the hard rock, and, commending myself to God,
became more calm and resigned to my fate. If ever there was a prayer in
which true sorrow for sin, and humble confidence in the goodness and
mercy of God, were poured from the human breast, it was from that
fearful place. After my devotions, a calm feeling stole over my mind. I
laid my head down, and, strange as it may appear, fell sound asleep as a
cradled babe, and awoke refreshed. The horrors of the earlier part of
the night came upon me like a fearful dream. The waters thundered in my
ears. I opened my eyes, and looked up. The first rays of the sun,
glancing upon the mists raised by the falls, formed numerous rainbows. I
dared not to look down to the abyss, or forward to the rushing stream.
With a feeling of utter helplessness, I turned my face again to the
rock, and looked up. A cry of hope and thanksgiving escaped my lips--the
top of the bank was only a few feet from where I lay! Rising to my
knees, and holding by the bushes, I poured forth my morning prayers of
thanksgiving and supplication for deliverance. I rose to my feet; the
edge was only a little above my reach--my situation was still fearfully
critical. Whether to risk all, and, by my own efforts, free myself, or
wait until aid came, I turned over in my mind for a few minutes, as I
examined the space above me. The noise of the waters, and agitation of
my mind, were again beginning to render my situation more and more
perilous, and I felt there was no time to lose. It was far more
appalling in the glare of day than the cloud of night, and, with a
desperate energy, I made the attempt, clinging to what I could grasp. I
know not how I succeeded, until I lay stretched upon the verge of the
gulf, secure from danger. I dared not rise to my feet--I crept upon my
hands and knees for several yards, then sprang up, nor looked behind.
Unheeding the path I took, I ran until I sank exhausted, the roar of the
waters no longer sounding in my ears. The sight of the place was now
hateful to me. I resolved not to visit it again, or see the other
falls--indeed, I was very ill, from the night's exposure to damp, and
the sufferings of my mind.
Without hat or shoes, I entered the inn of the village. On raising the
people from their beds, my appearance was so suspicious, that it was
with difficulty they allowed me to enter; but a seven-shilling piece,
which I tendered to the landlady, acted as a charm in raising her good
opinion of me. I obtained a warm bed, and a cordial, while she prepared
breakfast, and dried my clothes, which were soiled and wet. I evaded all
her artful inquiries to learn how I had come into my present situation.
It looked so improbable, even to myself, that I thought no one would
give credit to my relation; and the rumours upon my former escape made
me resolve to keep it secret from every one, even Malcolm, to whom I
wrote to come over to me with the horses.
I remained in my room until his arrival, which was not until late in
the forenoon. When he arrived, I thought he would have gone distracted
with joy--he wept and laughed by turns--gazing at times with a vacant
stare, then touching me to prove my identity. After he became more
composed, I learned that it was currently reported and believed in
Lanark, that I had perished in the river. Malcolm had waited for me with
extreme impatience, after nightfall, until about ten o'clock, when he
could be induced by the landlord of the inn to remain no longer, and
even the landlord had become uneasy. After some delay, several men were
engaged to accompany Malcolm in his search for me, and, having procured
torches and a lantern, they proceeded to the side of the river, beneath
the fall, and, after searching every spot they could reach in the
darkness of the night, for more than a mile on each side, they again, on
Malcolm's importunities, and his offer of a handsome reward, renewed
their search the second time. In an eddy not far below the fall, one of
them discovered my hat, sunk near the margin, and filled with water and
mud. That I had been drowned none of the party had the smallest doubt.
The search had continued for upwards of three hours, their torches were
burned out, and the men refused to remain longer; but no persuasion
could induce Malcolm to leave the side of the swollen river, where he
had remained during the short interval till day; the landlord promising
to return early, with drags, and men, to search for my body. In this
manner they had been employed, until all hope had fled, and they,
accompanied by Malcolm, had returned to the inn, where he found my
letter. Confused by hope and doubt, he had hurried on foot, and run to
me. Moved by his affection, I gave him a sum of money, to reward the
landlord and his assistants, telling him I was extremely sorry for the
alarm and trouble I had put them all to; but that my hat having fallen
in, and my not returning, were caused by a circumstance I did not choose
to explain.
As I felt no serious inconvenience from my adventure, I rose and
dressed, and left the village for Glasgow, after dinner. As we passed
the Cartland Bridge, I shut my eyes, to prevent my seeing the river, and
put spurs to my horse, to quit the scene where I had suffered so much in
so short a time.
After wandering over the greater part of Scotland for several weeks, I
became weary of enjoyment, and turned our horses' heads homewards by the
coast of Ayrshire, with a view to visit the Island of Arran, and then
cross the country to Stirling, by Loch Lomond. We had reached Largs, on
the coast of Ayrshire, and saw the Isle of Bute, the Cumbraes, and the
lofty summits of Arran, rise out of the Firth of Clyde, in beautiful
succession. At this time steamboats were unknown. I agreed with the
landlord of the inn to have our horses carefully sent round by Glasgow,
to wait us at Dumbarton, and set out for the beach, to enjoy the scene,
and agree for a boat to carry us on our aquatic excursion; but the time
passed on, and evening approached when we were at a considerable
distance from the town. We had been sometimes upon the beach, at others
among the rocks, as fancy led. I said to Malcolm that I would now return
to our inn, and cause our landlord to make arrangements for a boat. As
we hurried away from the shore towards the town, four men, in seamen's
apparel, rushed from behind a rock, and pinioned our arms before we were
aware. Two of them held pistols in their hands, threatening to fire if
we uttered a sound, and pushed us before them to the spot whence they
had issued. Here we found two other similar characters; the whole were
stout, athletic men, of different ages, bronzed by the weather.
The place where we were was close by the beach, under a rock which
beetled out for a few feet--the sea, at full, coming almost up to the
base--but protruding sufficiently to conceal, except in front, a number
of people. Still pointing the pistols to our breasts, and almost
touching our vests, they bound our hands together behind our backs, and,
taking our handkerchiefs from our pockets, covered our faces. We were
silent and passive in their hands; yet in agony of fear. They placed us
upon the hard rock, and we dared not ask one question, to ascertain the
cause of our detention. From the few words that we could pick up out of
their conversation, which was carried on in whispers, I could learn that
the disposal of our persons engaged them. Malcolm could contain his
fears no longer, and began to plead for mercy for his master and
himself. One of the fellows snapped his pistol; I could hear the click
and smell the powder.
"You are in luck this bout," said a voice; "but don't make me try it
again; she never flashed in the pan before. We don't threaten for
naught; so bless your luck, and take warning."
A long period of fearful suspense ensued, in which my imagination
conjured up a thousand objects of horror and suffering. The sea-breeze
gently sighed among the rocks, and we heard the soft cadence of the
gentle waves that fell near our feet, as the tide advanced. That we had
become objects of alarm to a band of lawless men, whose lives were spent
in violating the laws of their country, I was fully aware, but in what
manner I knew not, unless that, by our sauntering about the rocks, they
had suspected us to belong to the excise. In such cases I had heard that
they were apt to do deeds of violence; but Malcolm's escape prevented me
from speaking a word, or requesting an explanation. At length the sound
of oars pulled steadily and with caution, fell upon my ears; and a
confused suppressed sound of many voices soon followed; then there was
the trampling of feet through the water and upon the rock, with the
noise as if numerous articles were placed close to where we sat.
Shivering from cold, we sat in anxious suspense. That I had been right
in my conjecture, I felt now assured; and, at this moment, I thought
they were delivering their cargo. Soon the movements ceased; we were
grasped by powerful hands, again threatened with death if we uttered a
word, and placed in a boat, which, by the motion, seemed to glide
through the water for a considerable time. No word was spoken by those
in the boat, except in whispers. Again I found it touch the beach. We
were lifted out, and placed upon the edge of the water, the cords cut
from our wrists, and, in one moment after, the sound of the departing
boat fell upon our gratified ears. We were alone, and the first use we
made of our regained liberty, was to take the mufflings from our faces.
All was dark around, nor could we discern any object except the faint
phosphoric light that marked the margin of the waves here and there,
like golden threads, as they broke at our feet.
We now breathed more freely; our situation, though far from comfortable,
was free from the dread of immediate violence; for we stood alone and
solitary upon an unknown beach--but whether in Ayrshire, Bute, or
Argyle, we had no means to ascertain. From our painful position while in
the boat, the time had hung so heavy on us that it appeared we had
sailed a great distance. Not so much as to the value of a farthing had
been taken from our persons, nor any violence used, more than was
necessary to keep us silent and prevent our escape. I now, indeed,
think, that the pistol which was snapped at Malcolm, had only powder in
the pan, to intimidate. After consulting for some time on the best means
of extricating ourselves from the necessity of passing the night on the
exposed beach, we agreed to proceed inland, at any risk, whether of
falls or a ducking, in quest of a roof to cover us. Before we left, I
groped the face of my watch--to see it was impossible, the night was so
dark. I found the hands to indicate half-past ten; so we had thus been
four hours in the hands of our captors.
Stumbling or falling at every few steps, we now proceeded slowly on.
Malcolm, who preceded me, once or twice plunged into quagmires, through
which I followed, until I was almost spent. At length a faint light, at
some distance, caught our eyes. Onwards we urged, until we could
distinguish a cottage, from whose small window the light proceeded.
After scrambling over a low, loose stone wall, we found ourselves in the
cottage garden. I looked in at the window, and could perceive a man and
two women--one old, the other young--seated by the fire. There was no
other light of any kind burning; and the dull ray of the fire gave to
the interior a gloomy appearance, save where it fell on the three
individuals who sat crouching before it. There being no door on the side
we were on, we walked to the front, and knocked for admittance. This
side of the cottage gave no indication of any light being within--the
window being carefully closed. For some time we knocked in vain--no
answer was made. At length, our knockings were answered by a female
voice--
"What want ye here at this time o' nicht, disturbing a lone woman?"
"My good woman," I replied, "we are strangers, who know not where we
are. Be so kind as open the door to us."
"Gae 'wa--gae 'wa; I will do nae sic thing; I hae nae uppitting for ye."
"My good woman," said I, in the most soothing manner I could, "do, for
charity, open the door. We are like to perish from fatigue, and can
proceed no further. You shall be paid whatever you ask for any
accommodation you can afford, were it only to sit by your fire until
daybreak."