This palace received many additions by Tiberius, Caligula, and Domitian;

and, finally, by Nero; from whom it was called “the golden house of

Nero.” It is thus described by Salmon, from Suetonius, Tacitus, and

other writers:—“From the remains in the back part of the Palatine-hill,

the ancient palace of Nero, from its great extent and vast size, was no

less difficult to be inhabited than it is for us to believe its

magnificence. It was built by the famous architects Severus and Cererus.

In the vestibule or principal entrance was the colossal statue of Nero,

of bronze. It was one hundred and twenty feet high, of excellent

workmanship, by Zenodorus, who was sent for from Gaul for the purpose.

It was restored by Vespasian, and dedicated to the sun. The emperor

added the rays, which were twenty-two feet and a half in length. In the

porticos were three galleries supported by large columns, which extended

a mile in length. This palace enclosed all the Palatine-hill, together

with the plain between the Palatine and the Cælius, and part of the

Esquiline mount near to the garden of Mæcenas. It was raised on large

columns of marble carried on a level from the Palatine to the Esquiline.

The superb entrance was facing the Via Sacra. Nero, in order to execute

this design, destroyed the houses of many of the citizens, which

occasioned the saying, that Rome consisted of one house. Tacitus writes,

that when Rome was in flames seven days and nights, it was not to be

extinguished till all the buildings about the Palatine were burnt. Where

the amphitheatre now stands, Nero formed a lake to resemble the sea,

with edifices around it similar to a city, together with extensive

gardens and walks, and places for wild beasts, vineyards, &c. In the

palace were a great number of halls, and an innumerable quantity of

rooms, galleries, and statues, resplendent in every part with gold,

gems, and precious stones; from which circumstance it acquired the name

of the golden house. Many of the rooms destined for public feasts were

very spacious, with most beautiful ceilings, which turned round in such

a manner that from various parts there fell flowers and exquisite

odours. The principal hall where Nero supped was circular, and of such

art, that the ceiling was ornamented with stars to resemble the heavens,

in conformity to which it continually revolved night and day. Birds of

silver were carved in the other ceilings with surprising art. Amulius, a

celebrated artist, was employed during the whole of his life to paint

this palace. The tables were of ivory, the floors of the rooms were

intersected with works in gold compartments of gems and mother-of-pearl:

the marble, the bronze, the statues, and the richest of the tapestry,

were beyond all description. When Nero went to inhabit it, he said, full

of pride, ‘I now begin to be lodged like a man.’ Here, particularly, was

a temple of Fortune, consecrated by Servius Tullius, and constructed by

Nero, of a fine transparent alabaster, called fingites. This stone was

brought from Cappadocia, and was so clear, that every object might be

seen when the doors were shut, as if it were noon-day. In the gardens

were delightful baths, numerous fish-ponds and pastures, with all sorts

of animals. Here were also baths of fresh and sea water. To erect these

wonderful edifices Italy was ruined with impositions and burdens, and

its temples spoiled of their precious ornaments, statues of gold and

silver, as likewise great part of the empire. Tacitus writes in his

Annals, that it was twice burned and rebuilt; that is, in the fire under

Nero, and in the sixth year of Trajan. According to Dion, it was burnt

the third time under the emperor Commodus; and, as he rebuilt it, it was

called from him Colonia Commodiana. Various emperors, abhorring the

excess of so much riches and luxury, removed the most valuable part, and

employed it for the greater ornament of the temple of Jupiter

Capitolinus. Antoninus Pius, detesting the extent of the palace,

contented himself with the part called Tiberiana, and shut up the rest.

All this magnificence, time, and especially the malignity of man, have

destroyed, and cypresses, symbols of death and desolation, triumph on

the ruins.”

Its present condition has been thus described by the poet:—

Cypress and ivy, weed and wallflower, grown

Matted and massed together; hillocks heaped

On what were chambers, arch crushed, column strown

In fragments, choked-up vaults, and frescoes steeped

In subterranean damps, where the owl peeped,

Deeming it midnight: temples, baths, or halls?

Pronounce who can; for all that learning reaped

From her research hath been, that these are walls.

Behold the Imperial Mount! ’tis thus the mighty falls.

Arches were public buildings,[182] designed for the reward and

encouragement of noble enterprises, erected generally to the honour of

such eminent persons as had either won a victory of extraordinary

consequence abroad, or had rescued the commonwealth at home from

considerable danger. At first, they were plain and rude structures, by

no means remarkable for beauty or state. But in later times no expenses

were thought too great for the rendering them in the highest degree

splendid and magnificent; nothing being more usual than to have the

greatest actions of the heroes they stood to honour curiously expressed,

or the whole procession of the triumph cut out on the sides. The arches

built by Romulus were only of brick; that of Camillus, of plain square

stone; but those of Cæsar, Drusus, Titus, Trajan, Gordian, &c., were

entirely of marble.

The most distinguished of these arches are those of Titus and Septimius

Severus. That of Gallienus is a mere gateway, and that of Drusus seems

part of an aqueduct; yet, coarse as they are, each has its Corinthian

columns, and pediments on a portion of the fronts. That of Constantine

was erected after the defeat of Maxentius, and was so contrived that the

music for the triumph might be placed in it. When the procession reached

the arch, the band began to play, and continued till the whole had

passed through.

The arch of Titus is situate on the eastern declivity of the Palatine

Mount. It is so rich, that some regard it not as elegant. The

entablature, the imposts, the key-stones, are all crowded with

sculpture; yet all, according to the taste of Mr. Forsyth, are meagre in

profile. It was erected by the senate, in gratitude to Titus for having

conquered Judea and taken Jerusalem. It is, therefore, one of the most

interesting monuments of ancient Rome; and so sensibly do the Jews still

feel the injury, done to their nation, that none of them can be tempted

to pass under it.

The triumph is represented on each side of the arch in oblong spaces,

seven feet in height, and nearly fourteen in length. The emperor

appears in a triumphal car drawn by four horses,—Victory crowning him

with a laurel. Rome is personified as a female. She conducts the horses;

lictors, citizens, and soldiers, attending. On the opposite side is

represented a procession, in which are carried, by persons crowned with

laurel and bearing the Roman standards, various spoils taken at

Jerusalem; such as the silver trumpets, the golden table, and the golden

candlestick with seven branches.

The arch of Severus was erected in honour of the emperor Septimius, and

his two sons Caracalla and Geta, on account of victories obtained over

the Parthians. We know from history, says Dr. Burton, that he made two

expeditions into the East; the first in 195, when he conquered

Vologeses; the second in 199, when he took Ctesiphon, and the treasures

of king Artabanus. Spartian tells us, that he triumphed after the first

expedition; but refused the honour the second time, because he had the

gout. His son triumphed in his stead; and it was upon this occasion that

the arch was erected.

This triumphal arch consists of three; that is, a large one in the

middle, and a smaller one on each side. These arches[183] are not in a

very pure style of architecture; but they are rich and handsome objects.

Four projecting columns adorn each face, and the entablature bricks

around each of them. Above the columns are supposed to have been

statues; while, on the top, as we learn from coins, was a car drawn by

six horses abreast, containing two persons in it, and having on each

side an attendant on horseback, followed by one on foot. The material of

the arch is marble; and each front is covered, between the columns, with

bas-reliefs. These bas-reliefs illustrate the campaigns and victories,

in commemoration of which the arch was erected. But the whole series,

says Dr. Burton, is in an indifferent style of sculpture, and presents

but a poor idea of the state of the arts at that time. Mr. Wood,

however, regards them, though bad in design as well as execution, as

contributing to the magnificence of the edifice. Mr. Forsyth, however,

is not given to indulge in respect to the architecture; for he says,

that the composite starts so often and so “furiously” out, the poverty

of its entablature meets you in so many points, as to leave no repose to

the eye. Within the arch is a marble staircase, leading by fifty steps

to the summit. The arch itself was half buried so late as the year 1803.

Several excavations had been made; but the loose soil had slipped down,

and quickly filled them up again. Pope Pius VII. was more successful in

the attempt than his predecessors had been; and by the year 1804 the

whole arch had been uncovered, and laid open down to the bottom.

The site of the temple of Romulus is now occupied by the church of San

Teodoro, a small rotunda. The walls are of great antiquity, and

marvellously perfect. In regard to the temple of Romulus and Remus, few

buildings have occasioned more disputes. It is now the church of S.S.

Cosimo e Damiano; the vestibule, several porphyry columns, and a bronze

door of which are exceedingly ancient.

The temple of Vesta, erected by Numa, now forms part of the church of S.

Maria del Sola. It is of Greek architecture, and surrounded by a portico

of nineteen Corinthian columns, on a flight of steps, the whole of

Parian marble. The roof was originally covered with bronze, brought from

Syracuse; but that has, long since, been replaced by materials much less

costly.

The temple of Minerva Medici stands in a garden on the Esquiline-hill;

it is round without, but forms a decagon within, and appears to have had

ten windows, and nine niches for statues. Here were found statues of

Æsculapius, Venus, Hercules, the Faun, and that of Minerva with the

serpent.

The church Sa. Maria in Cosmedin is supposed to have been the temple of

Puditia Patricia, or Chastity, which no plebeian was allowed to enter.

Pope Adrian I. rebuilt this edifice in 728, retaining the cella, and

many portions of the ancient temple.

A mean-looking church, called Sa. Maria d’ Ara Cœli, wholly devoid of

external ornament, is supposed to stand on the site of the temple of

Jupiter Feretrius. A flight of one hundred and twenty-four steps of

marble, brought from the temple of Jupiter Quirinus, forms the ascent to

it from the Campus Martius; the interior has twenty-two ancient columns

of granite, and the whole appears to be an assemblage of fragments of

other buildings. It was whilst musing in this church, “whilst the friars

were singing vespers in the temple of Jupiter,” that Gibbon says he

first conceived the idea of writing his immortal history.

The beautiful temple of Jupiter Tonans was erected by Augustus, in

gratitude for his escape from lightning. Only three of the thirty

columns of the portico now remain, together with a portion of the

frieze. They are of Luna marble, four feet four inches in diameter, with

Corinthian capitals, and appear originally to have been tinged with

Tyrian purple.

During the time of Claudius, the very curious temple of Faunus was built

upon the Celian mount. It was of circular form, and had internally two

rows of Ionic columns, with arches springing immediately from the

capitals. The upper windows had each a column in the middle, with

arches also springing from the capitals; and these two arches were

enclosed by a semicircular arch, which had its springing upon the jambs

of the windows; and, rising higher, left a considerable space between it

and the two before-mentioned small arches, in which space was a circular

opening. This is particularly noticed as an early and distinct type of

what was afterwards named Saxon, Norman, and Gothic.

The temple of Concord was the place in which Lentulus and other

confederates of Catiline were brought before the senate in order to be

tried, and whence they were taken to the Mamertine prisons. “For my own

part,” says Middleton, “as oft as I have been wandering about in the

very rostra of old Rome, or in that of the temple of Concord, where

Tully assembled the senate in Catiline’s conspiracy, I could not help

fancying myself much more sensible of the force of his eloquence; whilst

the impression of the place served to warm my imagination to a degree

almost equal to that of his old audience.” Of late years, however, these

ruins have been ascribed to the temple of Fortune, burnt in the time of

Maxentius, the competitor of Constantine.

The temple of Fortune was, for a long time, taken for the temple of

Concord. Its portico is nearly complete; consisting of six granite

columns in front, and two behind, supporting an entablature and

pediment. The columns all vary in diameter, and have bases and capitals

of white marble. From this circumstance it is conjectured that it was

erected with the spoils of other buildings; their original temple, burnt

in the time of Maxentius, having been rebuilt by Constantine.

The temple of Nerva was erected by Trajan. It was one of the finest

edifices of ancient Rome; but all that now remains of it is a cella,

and three fine columns of Parian marble, fifty feet in height,

supporting an architrave.

The temple of Peace[184], erected by Vespasian, was enriched with spoils

from Jerusalem. This temple is related to have been one of the most

magnificent in Rome: it was encircled with a coating of gilt bronze, and

adorned with stupendous columns of white marble; it was also enriched

with some of the finest sculptures and paintings of which the ancient

world could boast[185]. Among the former was a colossal statue of the

Nile, surrounded by sixteen children, cut out of one block of basalt;

among the latter was the famous picture of Jalysus, painted by

Protogenes of Rhodes. Here, too, were deposited the candlesticks, and

some other of the spoils, which Titus brought from Jerusalem. There was

also a curious library attached to the edifice.

Three immense arches, which rank amongst the most remarkable remains in

Rome, are all that are left of this once stupendous structure, which,

until lately, was supposed to be the temple of Peace, erected by

Vespasian at the close of the Judean war. But the great degeneracy of

the workmanship, and its being wholly unlike all erections of that

nature, has led to the opinion that the remains are neither of the time

of Vespasian, nor those of the temple, which, with all the immense

treasures it contained, was destroyed by fire, about one hundred years

after its erection; but of a Basilica[186], erected by Maxentius on the

ruins of the temple, and converted by Constantine into a Christian

church. The stupendous proportions of this structure are shown by the

three vaulted roofs, each seventy-five feet across, which rise above the

surrounding buildings in huge but not ungainly masses. The vault of the

middle arch, which is placed further back, forms part of a sphere; the

side ones are cylindrical; all are ornamented with sunk panels of

stucco-work. The church appears to have consisted of a nave and two

aisles, divided by enormous pillars of marble, one of which now stands

in front of the church of La Maria Maggiore. It is of a single block, of

forty-eight feet in height, and sixteen and a half in circumference.

Of the fine temple, di Venere e Roma,[187] the cella of each deity

remains, with the niches, in which were their statues, and a portion of

one of the side walls, which prove it to have been of vast size, great

magnificence, and a chef-d’œuvre of architecture. The emperor Adrian

himself drew the plans, which he submitted to Apollodorus, whose opinion

respecting them is said to have been the cause of his untimely death.

The temples, although they had each a separate entrance and cella,

formed but one edifice; the substructure of which, having been recently

excavated, is found to have been three hundred and thirty by one hundred

and sixty feet. A noble flight of steps, discovered at the same time,

between the arch of Titus and the church of St. Francesco, formed the

approach of the Forum, which front, as well as that towards the

Coliseum, was adorned with columns of Parian marble, six feet in

diameter; and the whole was surrounded by a portico, with a double row

of columns of grey granite. The walls and pavement of the interior were

incrusted with fine marble, and the roof richly gilt.

The Temple of Antoninus was erected by Marcus Aurelius in 178, in memory

of Antoninus and his consort Faustina. The original portico, consisting

of ten Corinthian columns of Cippolino marble, and a portion of the

temple itself, now form the church of S. Lorenzo in Miranda.

The column of Marcus Aurelius Antoninus was erected by the senate in

honour of that illustrious emperor. Bassi-rilievi run spirally from the

bottom to the top, representing the Marcomannian war. It is composed of

twenty-six blocks of Parian marble, and is one hundred and twenty-three

feet in height. The statue of the emperor once stood on its summit, but

it has been replaced by that of St. Paul.

This leads us to speak of the great statue of the same emperor. The

horse was so greatly admired by Michael Angelo, that when he first saw

it, he looked at it in silence for some time, and then said, “Go on!”

“This great statue of Marcus Aurelius,” says Mr. Forsyth, “or rather of

his horse, which was once the idol of Rome, is now a subject of

contention. Some critics find the proportions of the animal false, and

his attitude impossible. One compares his head to an owl, another his

belly to a cow’s, but the well-known apostrophe of a third (Michael

Angelo) will ever prevail in your first impressions. The spirit and fire

of the general figure will seduce the most practised eye. Ancient

sculptors, intent only on man, are supposed to have neglected the study

of animals; and we certainly find very rude accessories affixed to some

exquisite antiques. Perhaps they affected such contrasts as strike us in

the work of the Faun and his panther, the Meleager and his dogs, the

Apollo and his swans, where the accessory serves as a foil. The horse,

however, comes so frequently into heroic subjects, that the greatest

artists of antiquity must have made him their particular study, and we

are told that they did so; but it were unfair to judge of their

excellence from this bruised and unfortunate animal.”

This celebrated statue is the only one of bronze of all that adorned the

city in ancient times. It has been called, at different periods, by the

names of Lucius Verus, Septimius Severus, and Constantine. It was placed

in its present position by Paul III. in 1538, being then removed from

before the church of St. John Lateran. A bunch of flowers is said to be

presented every year to the chapter of St. John, as an acknowledgment,

that the statue belongs to them; but this Sir John Hobhouse denies. The

statue was originally gilt; the coating laid on, according to the

practice of the ancients, in very thick leaves; and some traces of it

may still be observed.

We now turn to the Coliseum. The shows of wild beasts were in general

designed for the honour of Diana, the patroness of hunting. For this

purpose, no cost was spared to fetch the different creatures from the

farthest parts of the world.

Part in laden vessels came,

Borne on the rougher waves, or gentler stream;

The fainting man let fall his trembling oar,

And the pale master feared the freight he bore.

And shortly after,

All that with potent teeth command the plain,

All that run horrid with erected mane,

Or proud of stately horns, or bristling hair,

At once the forest’s ornament and fear;

Torn from their deserts by the Roman power,

Nor strength can save, nor craggy dens secure.

Some creatures were presented merely as strange sights and rarities; as

crocodiles, and several outlandish birds and beasts: others for the

combat, as lions, tigers, leopards, &c. We may reckon up three sorts of

diversions with the beasts, which all went under the common name of

Venatio:—The first, when the people were permitted to run after the

beasts, and catch what they could for their own use; the second, when

the beasts fought with one another; and the last, when they were brought

out to engage with men.[188]

The fights between beasts were exhibited with great variety; sometimes a

tiger was matched with a lion; sometimes a lion with a bull; a bull with

an elephant; a rhinoceros with a bear, &c. But the most wonderful sight

was, when by bringing water into the amphitheatre, huge sea-monsters

were introduced to combat with wild beasts:—

No sylvan monsters we alone have view’d,

But huge sea calves, dyed red with hostile blood

Of bears, lie floundering in the wondrous flood.

CALPHURN. Eclog. vii.

The men, that engaged with wild beasts, had the common name of

Bestiarii. Some of these were condemned persons; others hired themselves

at a set pay, like the Gladiators; and like them, too, had their schools

where they were instructed and initiated in such combats. We find

several of the nobility and gentry many times voluntarily undertaking a

part in these encounters; and Juvenal acquaints us, that the very women

were ambitious of showing their courage on the like occasions, though

with the forfeiture of their modesty.

One of the best accounts of this wonderful edifice, is that given in

Burford’s account of the Panorama painted by himself, and now (1839,)

exhibiting in Leicester Square, London. “The far-famed amphitheatre of

Vespasian, or, as it is more generally called, the Coliseum, is one of

the most extraordinary and massive works, that Rome, or any other

country, ever produced; and forms one of the most surprising, and

intensely interesting, objects of attraction amongst the many gigantic

remains of that ancient city. In whatever way it is viewed, whether as

regards its immense size, the solidity of its structure, the simplicity

and harmony of its architecture, the grace and beauty of its

proportions, or its internal arrangement and convenience, it equally

strikes the mind with wonder and admiration; and is universally admitted

to be one of the noblest remains of antiquity in the world. Placed at

some distance from the gorgeous churches, extensive palaces, and busy

streets of modern Rome, it stands alone in solitary dignity and gloomy

contrast; elevating its stupendous masses from above the surrounding

ruins of the imperial city; a striking image of Rome itself in its

present state, erect on the one side, fallen on the other; half grey,

half green, deserted and decaying; a splendid and melancholy monument of

past greatness; and no monument of human power, no memorial of departed

ages, ever spoke more forcibly to the heart, or awakened feelings so

powerful, and unutterable. The Coliseum was commenced by Flavius

Vespasian, in the year 72, as a triumphal memorial of his victories in

Judea; and it also served to perpetuate the recollection of the many

horrid cruelties, committed by the conquering Romans during that war. It

was erected, according to Martial and Pliny, on the spot formerly

occupied by a lake or fish-pond, in the gardens of Nero’s golden house,

then nearly the centre of the city. Twelve thousand Jewish prisoners,

reduced to slavery, were employed on the work; and when it is

considered, that so large and solid an edifice was completed in little

more than four years, it becomes clearly evident, that the utmost

cruelty and oppression must have been resorted to, to compel these

unfortunates to complete the task. Titus, the son of Vespasian, finished

the building; and on its dedication exhibited shows and games for one

hundred days, during which numbers of gladiators were killed, and five

thousand wild beasts were torn to pieces in the arena.”

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