RUINS
OF
ANCIENT CITIES;
WITH
GENERAL AND PARTICULAR ACCOUNTS
OF
THEIR RISE, FALL, AND PRESENT CONDITION.
BY CHARLES BUCKE.
Fallen, fallen, a silent heap; their heroes all
Sunk in their urns:—Behold the pride of pomp,
The throne of nations fallen; obscured in dust
Even yet majestical.—The solemn scene
Elates the soul!
DYER.
IN TWO VOLS.—VOL. II.
LONDON:
PRINTED FOR THOMAS TEGG, 73, CHEAPSIDE.
MDCCCXL.
LONDON:
BRADBURY AND EVANS, PRINTERS, WHITEFRIARS.
CONTENTS.
PAGE
I. MESSENE 1
II. MYCENÆ 5
III. MILETUS 10
IV. NAUPLIA 20
V. NEMEA 22
VI. NINEVEH 24
VII. NUMANTIA 42
VIII. OLYMPIA 44
IX. PUTEOLI 57
X. PALMYRA (TADMOR) 60
XI. PATRÆ 100
XII. PELLA 103
XIII. PERGAMUS 108
XIV. PERSEPOLIS 112
XV. PETRA (WADY MOUSA) 137
XVI. PHIGALIA 156
XVII. PLATÆA 161
XVIII. PÆSTUM 167
XIX. POMPEII 177
XX. RAMA 198
XXI. ROME 200
XXII. SAGUNTUM 304
XXIII. SAIS 308
XXIV. SAMARIA 312
XXV. SAPPHURA 315
XXVI. SARDIS 317
XXVII. SELEUCIA 327
XXVIII. SELINUS, OR SELINUNTUM 332
XXIX. SICYON 343
XXX. SIDON 348
XXXI. SMYRNA 357
XXXII. SPALATRO 365
XXXIII. STRATONICE 369
XXXIV. SUSA 372
XXXV. SYBARIS 381
XXXVI. SYENE 385
XXXVII. SYRACUSE 387
XXXVIII. THEBES 402
XXXIX. TROJA, AND OTHER CITIES OF THE TROAS 452
XL. TYRE 479
XLI. VEII 496
RUINS OF ANCIENT CITIES.
NO. I.—MESSENE.
Pausanias[1] appears to have had great interest in the history of the
Messenians; for his history of their wars is more minute and animated
than any other part of his narrative. His account of the city gives us a
grand idea of what it must once have been; and the present splendid
remains produce a conviction of his veracity.
The walls of Messene[2], built of hewn stone, crowned with battlements,
and flanked with towers, were stronger and higher than those of
Byzantium, Rhodes, and the other cities of Greece. They included within
their circuit Mount Ithome. It had a large public square or forum,
ornamented with temples, statues, and a splendid fountain. Beautiful
edifices were on every side.
The Messenians had several wars with the Lacedæmonians; and at one time
were so unfortunate as to be reduced to the condition of the Helots.
They were at length, however, reinstated by the Thebans, who took their
city from the Spartans, who had possessed it a long time, after having
expelled all its inhabitants. Those who were dispersed in different
regions of Greece, Italy, and Sicily, on the first notice given them,
returned with incredible joy: animated by the love of their country,
natural to all men, and almost as much by their hatred of the Spartans,
which length of time had only increased. They built themselves a city,
which, from the ancient name, was called Messene.
After their return they fell out with the Achaians, and having worsted
their celebrated general, Philopœmen, they had the meanness and atrocity
to put him to death. His history is thus related by Rollin:—
“Dinocrates, the Messenian, had drawn off Messene from the Achaian
league; and was meditating how he might best seize upon a considerable
post near that city. Philopœmen, then seventy years of age, and
generalissimo of the Achaians for the eighth time, lay sick. However,
the instant the news of this was brought him, he set out,
notwithstanding his indisposition, made a counter-march, and advanced
towards Messene with a small body of forces. Dinocrates, who had marched
out against him, was soon put to flight; but five hundred troopers, who
guarded the open country of Messene, happening to come up and reinforce
him, he faced about and routed Philopœmen. This general, who was
solicitous of nothing but to save the gallant youths who had followed
him in this expedition, performed the most extraordinary acts of
bravery; but happening to fall from his horse, and receiving a deep
wound in the head, he was taken prisoner by the enemy, who carried him
to Messene.
“Upon the arrival of the news that Philopœmen was taken prisoner, and on
his way to the city, the Messenians ran to the gates; not being able to
persuade themselves of the truth of what they heard, till they saw him
themselves; so greatly improbable did this relation appear to them. To
satisfy the violent curiosity of the inhabitants, many of whom had not
yet been able to get a sight of him, they were forced to show the
illustrious prisoner on the theatre. When they beheld Philopœmen,
dragged along in chains, most of the spectators were so moved to
compassion, that the tears trickled from their eyes. There even was
heard a murmur among the people, which resulted from humanity, and a
very laudable gratitude; “That the Messenians ought to call to mind the
great services done by Philopœmen, and his preserving the liberty of
Achaia, by the defeat of Nabis the tyrant.” But the magistrates did not
suffer him to be long exhibited in this manner, lest the pity of the
people should be attended with ill consequences. They therefore took him
away on a sudden; and, after consulting together, caused him to be
conveyed to a place called the Treasury. This was a subterraneous place,
whither neither light nor air entered from without, and had no door to
it, but was shut with a huge stone that was rolled over the entrance of
it. In this dungeon they imprisoned Philopœmen, and posted a guard round
every part of it.
“As soon as it was night, and all the people were withdrawn, Dinocrates
caused the stone to be rolled away, and the executioner to descend into
the dungeon with a dose of poison to Philopœmen, commanding him not to
stir till he had swallowed it. The moment the illustrious Megalopolitan
perceived the first glimmerings of light, and saw the man advance
towards him, with a lamp in one hand and a sword in the other, he raised
himself with the utmost difficulty, for he was very weak, sat down, and
then taking the cup, he inquired of the executioner, whether he could
tell what was become of the young Megalopolitans his followers,
particularly Lycortas? The executioner answering, that he heard almost
all had saved themselves by flight, Philopœmen thanked him by a nod, and
looking kindly on him,—“You bring me,” says he, “good news; and I find
we are not entirely unfortunate;” after which, without breathing the
least complaint, he swallowed the deadly dose, and laid himself again on
his cloak. The poison was very speedy in its effects; for Philopœmen,
being extremely weak and feeble, expired in a moment.
“When the news of his death spread among the Achaians, all their cities
were inexpressibly afflicted. Immediately all their young men who were
of age to bear arms, and all their magistrates, came to Megalopolis.
Here a grand council being summoned, it was unanimously resolved not to
delay a moment the revenge of so horrid a deed; and, accordingly, having
elected on the spot Lycortas for their general, they advanced with the
utmost fury into Messene, and filled every part of it with blood and
slaughter. The Messenians having now no refuge left, and being unable to
defend themselves by force of arms, sent a deputation to the Achaians,
to desire that an end might be put to the war, and to beg pardon for
their past faults. Lycortas, moved at their intreaties, did not think it
advisable to treat them as their furious and insolent revolt seemed to
deserve. He told them that there was no other way for them to expect a
peace, but by delivering up the authors of the revolt, and of the death
of Philopœmen; to submit all their affairs to the disposal of the
Achaians, and to receive a garrison into their citadel. These conditions
were accepted, and executed immediately. Dinocrates, to prevent the
ignominy of dying by an executioner, laid violent hands on himself, in
which he was imitated by all those who had advised the putting
Philopœmen to death.”
A mere village[3] now occupies the site of Messene, and this is situated
on its ruins, about three quarters of a mile from the great gate, which,
of its kind, is the most magnificent ruin in Greece.
A circular wall, composed of large regular blocks, incloses an area of
sixty-two feet diameter. In this wall are two gates, one facing
Cyparissaii, and the other looking towards Laconia. The architraves have
fallen; but that which belonged to the Laconian gate remains entire,
with one end on the ground, and the other leaning against the wall.
There are the remains, also, of a stadium, and of a theatre, one of the
smallest in Greece. Several other traces, masses of fine walls, and
heaps of stones, that are scattered about the place, are overgrown or
nearly concealed by large trees and luxuriant shrubs[4].
NO. II.—MYCENÆ.
This city was the capital of Agamemnon, who was the commander-in-chief
of the assembled Greeks, before the walls of Troy. This event took
place, B. C. 1184; and the present ruins are supposed to be the ruins of
the city before that event.
Perseus translated the seat of his kingdom from Argos to Mycenæ. The
kings who reigned at Mycenæ, after Perseus, were Erectryon, Sthenelus,
and Eurystheus. The last, after the death of Hercules, declared open war
against his descendants, apprehending they might some time or other
attempt to dethrone him; which, as it happened, was done by the
Heraclidæ; for, having killed Eurystheus in battle, they entered
victorious into Peloponnesus; and made themselves masters of the
country. But a plague obliged them to quit the country. Three years
after this, being deceived by the ambiguous expression of the oracle,
they made a second attempt, which likewise proved fruitless. This was
about twenty years before the taking of Troy.
Atreus, the son of Pelops, uncle by the mother’s side to Eurystheus, was
the latter’s successor. And in this manner the crown came to the
descendants of Pelops, from whom Peloponnesus, which before was called
Apia, derived its name. The bloody hatred of the two brothers, Atreus
and Thyestes, is known to all the world.
Plisthenes, the son of Atreus, succeeded his father in the kingdom of
Mycenæ, which he left to his son Agamemnon, who was succeeded by his son
Orestes.
The kingdom of Mycenæ was filled with enormous and horrible crimes, from
the time it came into the family of Pelops.
Tisamenes and Penthilus, sons of Orestes, reigned after their father,
and were at last driven out by the Heraclidæ.
The length of the Acropolis of Mycenæ, is about four hundred yards,[5]
and its breadth about two hundred. The whole circuit of this citadel can
still be made out; and, in some places, the walls remain to the height
of fifteen or twenty feet. They are constructed of huge stones, and
belong to that style of building commonly called Cyclopean. This
description of wall building is recognised by its massy materials, and
by a certain style of rudeness; in which, however, different epochs are
easily distinguished. The oldest part of the walls of Mycenæ, resembles
the Cyclopean walls of Tiryns, a place to the south, about seven miles
distant, which are apparently nothing more than huge masses of unwrought
stone, placed one above another, with the interstices filled up by
smaller materials.
The citadel of Mycenæ is of an irregular oblong form, and is now chiefly
an object of curiosity for the gate, or great entrance, to the north and
west angle. The approach to this gate is by a passage of fifty feet
long, and thirty wide, formed by two parallel and projecting walls,
which was a part of the fortification, and were obviously designed to
command the entrance, and annoy any enemy who might venture to attack
the place. The door is formed of three stones, two upright, and a
cross-stone, forming a soffit. This last is fifteen feet long, four
wide, and six feet seven inches thick in the middle, but diminishes
towards each end. On this stone stands another of a triangular shape,
which is twelve feet long, ten high, and two thick. Two lions are cut in
relief on the face of this stone, standing on their hind legs, on
opposite sides of a round pillar, on which their forepaws rest.
The kingdom of the Argives[6] was divided into two portions, by Acrisius
and his brother Prœtus. Argos and Mycenæ were their capitals. These, as
belonging to the same family, and distant only about six miles and a
quarter from each other, had one tutelary deity, Juno; and were,
jointly, proprietors of her temple, the Heræum. This renowned temple was
adorned with curious sculpture, and numerous statues. The image was very
large, made by Polycletus, of gold and ivory, sitting on a throne. Among
the offerings was a shield, taken by Menelaus, from Euphorbus, at Ilium;
an altar of silver, on which the marriage of Hebe with Hercules was
represented; a golden crown and purple robe, given by Nero; and a
peacock of gold, set with precious stones, dedicated by Hadrian.
Near it were the remains of a more ancient temple, which had been
burned; a taper setting some garlands on fire, while the priestess was
sleeping.
The cause of the destruction of Mycenæ is said to have been
this:—Eighty of its heroes accompanied the Spartans to the defile of
Thermopylæ, and shared with them the glory of their immortal deed. This
is said so to have excited the jealousy of their sister city, Argos,
that it was never afterwards forgiven. The Argives, stung by the
recollection of the opportunity they had thus lost of signalising
themselves, and unable to endure the superior fame of their neighbours,
made war against Mycenæ, and destroyed it. This event happened about
five centuries before Christ. We cannot, however, believe that the
Argives, who were an exceedingly mild and benevolent people, could have
done such an act of atrocity as this.
Strabo could not imagine where Mycenæ could have stood. He says, that
not a single vestige remained. Pausanias, however, who lived at a much
later period, found its colossal ruins, and described them as they are
seen at this very day.
“It is not,” says Dr. Clarke, “merely the circumstance of seeing the
architecture and the sculpture of the heroic ages, which renders a view
of Mycenæ one of the highest gratifications a literary traveller can
experience; the consideration of its remaining at this time, exactly as
Pausanias saw it in the second century, and in such a state of
preservation, that an alto-relievo, described by him, yet exists in the
identical position he has assigned for it, adds greatly to the interest
excited by these remarkable ruins: indeed, so singularly does the whole
scene correspond with his account of the place, that, in comparing them
together, it might be supposed, a single hour had not elapsed since he
was himself upon the spot.”
Everything[7] conspires to render these ruins pre-eminently interesting;
whether we consider their venerable age, the allusions made to them in
such distant periods, when they were visited by Sophocles, Euripides and
other poets and historians of Greece, as the classical antiquities of
their country; or the indisputable examples they afford of the
architecture, sculpture, mythology and customs of the heroic ages.
The walls consist of huge unhewn masses of stone, so fitted and adapted
to each other, as to have given rise to an opinion, that the power of
man was inadequate to the labour necessary in building them.
One of the first things that is noticed is a tumulus of an immense size.
This has been opened, and the entrance is no longer concealed. This
sepulchre has been erroneously called the “treasury of Atreus;” and the
“monument of Agamemnon.” “That this sepulchre,” says Clarke, “could not
have been the treasury of Atreus, is evident from Pausanias’s
description, because it was _without_ the walls of the Acropolis; and
that it cannot be the monument of Agamemnon, because it was _within_ the
citadel.”
In regard to the tomb of Agamemnon, the following account has been given
by Mr. Turner: “I entered by a subterraneous passage, opened by Lord
Elgin, and was surprised to find myself in an immense dome, about ninety
feet high, and fifty round the bottom. It had two doors, one into the
open air, and another into an interior chamber, which was thoroughly
dark, and, I was told, very small. It was built of immense stones, and
was in excellent preservation. The tomb being subterraneous, there are
no traces above-ground, and you might walk over it for years, without
suspecting that you were walking over so interesting a ruin.”
The other antiquities must remain for the more attentive examination of
future travellers; who, as it is hoped, will visit the ruins provided
with the necessary implements for making researches, where, with the
slightest precaution, they will be little liable[8] to interruption, the
place being as destitute of inhabitants, and almost as little known, as
it was in the time of Strabo; when it was believed that not a vestige
could be found[9].
NO. III.—MILETUS.
This celebrated city was the capital of Ionia, situated, in the time of
Pausanias, ten stadia from the mouth of the Mænder; but that river
accumulated its deposit, afterwards, so closely, that the town was
removed, in process of time, more than three miles within the land. Of
its origin there are two accounts: some ascribing it to a colony from
Crete, under the conduct of Miletus; some to Sarpedon; and others to
Neleus, the son of Codrus, king of Athens, who died there, and whose
tomb was in existence for many ages.
“Alyattes, king of Sardis, made war upon the Milesians in the following
manner,” says Herodotus. “As the time of harvest approached, he marched
an army into their country to the sound of the pastoral pipe, harp, and
flutes, played upon by women as well as men. On his arrival in their
territories, he neither hunted, nor in any respect injured their
edifices, which stood in the fields; but he totally destroyed the
produce of their lands, and then returned. As the Milesians were
securely situated near the sea, all attacks upon their city would
probably have proved ineffectual. His motive for not destroying their
buildings was, that they might be induced again to cultivate their
lands, and that on every repetition of his excursions, he might be
secure of plunder.”
In this manner the war was protracted during a period of eleven years;
the Milesians receiving no succour from any of their neighbours, except
the natives of Chios. In the twelfth year of the war the enemy again set
fire to the corn, and a sudden wind springing up, the flames caught the
temple of Minerva and burnt it to the ground. Alyattes, supposing that
the Milesians must be destitute of corn from these repeated
conflagrations, sent word that an ambassador would be at Miletus to make
a truce, until he had rebuilt the temple. When Thrasybulus, king of
Miletus, heard this, he directed all the corn that could be in any way
collected, to be brought into the public market-place; and at an
appointed time ordered the Milesians to commence a scene of feasting and
dances. When Alyattes heard of this festivity, convinced that he had
been mistaken as to the hope of starving the Milesians out, he not only
immediately offered peace, but entered into a strict alliance with them,
and forthwith erected two temples to Minerva instead of one.
The Ionians having been drawn into revolt through the intrigues and
ambitious views of two persons, Aristagoras and Hysteius, the Persians,
having routed the Ionians, laid siege to Miletus, both by sea and land.
They not only undermined the walls, but applied every species of
military machines against it. The oracle had declared:—
And thou, Miletus, versed in ill too long,
Shalt be the prey and plunder of the strong:
Your wives shall stoop to wash a long-hair’d train,
And others guard our Didymæan fane.
This prophecy was fulfilled. The city was taken and utterly destroyed.
The greater part of the Milesians were slain by the Persians, who at
that time wore long hair; and their wives and children were carried into
slavery. Those who survived, were sent to Susa; Darius treating them
with great humanity.
The Milesians, continues Herodotus, on suffering these calamities from
the Persians, did not meet with the return from the people of Sybaris,
which they might justly have expected. When Sybaris was taken by the
Crotoniati, the Milesians had shaved their heads, and discovered every
testimony of sorrow; for betwixt these two cities a strict hospitality
prevailed. And here we must give room for a beautiful instance of
sensibility on the part of the Athenians. When they heard of the
destruction of Miletus, they gave way to many indications of sorrow; and
some years after the capture of Miletus, a drama, written by Phrynicus,
being represented at Athens, the whole audience melted into tears. The
poet, for thus reminding them of so terrible a calamity, was fined a
thousand drachmæ, and the piece forbidden to be played in future.
A bloody battle was fought under the walls of the town, between the
Athenians and Argives on one side, and the Peloponnesians assisted by
the Persians and the revolted Milesians on the other. The fortune of the
day turned to the side of the Athenians; and they would have entered the
city and recovered their authority, had not a fleet of fifty-five sail,
belonging to the enemy, compelled them to draw off their forces and
retire.
B. C. 412[10]. In this year the inhabitants of Miletus joined the
Lacedæmonian party against Athens. When the Athenians heard of this,
they voted the expenditure of a thousand talents, which, in more
prosperous times, they had deposited in the citadel, under the sanction
of a decree of the senate and people, to reserve it for an occasion of
the utmost danger. This enabled them to recruit their fleet; and having
secured the fidelity of the Lesbians, they endeavoured to recover their
authority in Miletus.
Lysander of Lacedæmon acted a great atrocity at Miletus. Apprehending
that those who were then at the head of the people, would escape his
revenge, he swore that he would do them no harm. These chiefs, giving
credit to his oath, appeared therefore in public; but no sooner had they
done so, than the treacherous Lysander gave leave to the nobles of the
town to put them all to death, which they immediately did, although the
number amounted to no less than eight hundred! He caused, also, an
incredible number of persons, who were of the party opposed to him, to
be massacred; and this he did not only to gratify his own malice and
revenge, but to serve the enmity, malice, and avarice of his friends,
whom he took delight in supporting in the gratification of their
passions by the death of their enemies.
The Milesians, when free from a foreign yoke, were often reduced to a
state of vassalage by domestic tyrants, who governed them with absolute
sway, and made them feel all the evils of a foreign subjection. In the
time of Antiochus II., for instance, we read of one Timarchus, who,
reigning in Miletus, and practising all manner of cruelties, was driven
out by that prince, and rewarded by the citizens with the title of
Theos.
When Alexander left Ephesus, he marched to Miletus. But the city,
expecting succours from the Persians, closed its gates against him.
Memnon, one of the most valiant commanders of Darius, who had shut
himself up in the fortress, determined to make as stout a defence as
possible. The Macedonian, however, attacked him skilfully and
vigorously, sending fresh troops to supply the places of those that were
wearied; yet finding his troops still repulsed in all directions, the
garrison being well supplied with every thing necessary for a siege, he
planted all his machines against the walls, made a great number of
breaches, and attempted new scalados wherever they were attached. At
length the besieged, after many brave efforts, fearful of being taken by
storm, capitulated. When he had succeeded, Alexander acted in a manner
much more noble and generous than he had done before, or did after in
many cases;—he treated the Milesians with great humanity. The
foreigners, however, that had taken part with them, he sold as slaves.
Miletus is thus described in the pages of Barthelemy, whose Travels of
Anacharsis, as we have before observed, have all the authority of an
ancient author:—“When at Miletus, we surveyed with admiration its
temples, festivals, manufactures, harbours, and the innumerable
concourse of ships, mariners, and workmen, there perpetually in motion.
This city is an abode of opulence, learning, and pleasure;—it is the
Athens of Ionia. Within the walls the city is adorned by the productions
of art; and without, embellished by the riches of nature. How often have
we directed our steps to the banks of the Mæander, which, after having
received a multitude of rivers, and bathed the walls of various cities,
rolls its waters in innumerable windings through the plain which is
honoured by bearing its name, and proudly ornaments its course with the
plenty it creates! How often, seated on the turf, which borders its
flowery margin, surrounded on all sides with the most delightful
prospects, and unable to satiate our senses with the purity and serene
splendour of the air and sky, have we not felt a delicious languor
insinuate into our souls, and throw us, if I may so speak, into the
intoxication of happiness! Such is the influence of the climate of
Ionia: and as moral causes, far from correcting, have only tended to
increase it, the Ionians have become the most effeminate, but, at the
same time, are to be numbered among the most amiable people, of Asiatic
Greece. In their ideas, sentiments, and manners, a certain softness
prevails, which constitute the charm of society; and in their music and
dancing is a liberty, which at first offends, and then seduces. They
have added new charms to pleasure, and enriched their luxury by
inventions. Numerous festivals occupy them at home, or attract them to
the neighbouring cities, where the men appear in magnificent habits, and
the women in all the elegance of female ornament, and with all the
desire of pleasing.”
St. Paul, in his way from Corinth to Jerusalem, passed through Miletus;
and as he went by sea, and would not take Ephesus in his way, he caused
the priests and bishops of the church of Ephesus to come to Miletus[11].
Miletus fell under subjection to the Romans, and became a considerable
place under the Greek emperors. Then it fell under the scourge of the
Turks; one of the sultans of which (A. D. 1175) sent twenty thousand
men, with orders to lay waste the Roman imperial provinces, and bring
him sand, water, and an oar. All the cities on the Mæander were then
ruined: since which, little of the history of Miletus has been known.
The Milesians early applied themselves to navigation; in the spirit of
which they, in the process of time, planted not less than eighty
colonies, in different parts of the world; and as we are ourselves so
largely engaged in colonisation, perhaps an account of the colonies,
sent out by the Milesians, may not be deemed uninteresting.
COLONIES OF MILETUS.
Cyzicum }
Artace } Islands in the Propontis.
Proconnesus }
Miletopolis, in Mysia.
ON THE COAST AND IN THE ENVIRONS OF THE HELLESPONT.
Priapus. │ Pæsus. │ Arisba.
Coloniæ. │ Lampsacus. │ Limnæ.
Parium. │ Gargetta. │ Percote.
Zaleia, at the foot of Mount Ida.
Scepsis, on that mountain.
NEAR MILETUS.
Iasus. │ Latmos. │ Heraclea.
ISLES SPORADES.
Icaria. │ Leros.
ON THE COASTS OF THE EUXINE (BLACK SEA).
Heraclea. │ Sinope. │ Amisus.
Chersonesus. │ Cotyorus. │ Cerasus.
Tium. │ Sesamus. │ Trapezus.
Cromna.
IN COLCHIS.
Phasis and Dioscorias.
IN THRACE.
Anthia. │ Thynius. │ Pactyes.
Anchialus. │ Phinopolis. │ Cardia.
Apollonia. │ Andrica. │ Deultum.
Crithote.
IN SCYTHIA.
Odessus. │ Calatis. │ Tyras.
Cruni. │ Touri. │ Borythranis.
Istropolis.
IN CHERSONESUS TAURICA.
Theodosia. │ Panticapæum.
Nymphæa. │ Myrnecion.
ON THE CIMMERIAN BOSPHORUS.
Phanagoria. │ Hermonassa. │ Cephi.
Tanais in Sarmatia; Salamis in Cyprus; Naucratis, Chemis,
Paralia in Egypt; Ampe on the Tigris; Clauda, on the Euphrates.
From this list we may imagine to what a height of power and civilisation
this city must have once attained. Babylon stands in a wilderness and a
desert by its side.
Miletus was adorned with superb edifices; and was greatly celebrated for
its trade, sciences, and arts. It gave birth also to many eminent
persons; amongst whom may be particularly mentioned, Thales[12],
Anaximenes[13], Anaximander[14], Hecatæus[15], Timotheus[16], also the
celebrated Aspasia, the wife of Pericles. It was also famous for its
excellent wool, with which were made stuffs and garments, held in the
highest reputation both for softness, elegance, and beauty.
It had a temple dedicated to Apollo Didymæus, which was burnt by Xerxes.
The Milesians, however, soon after rebuilt it, and upon so large a
scale, that Strabo describes it as having been equal in extent to a
village; so large indeed was it, that it could never be covered. It
stood in a thick grove. With what magnificence and prodigious spirit
this edifice was designed, may in some measure be collected from the
present remains. Strabo called it the “greatest of all temples;” adding
that it continued without a roof on account of its bigness; Pausanias
mentions it as unfinished, but as one of the wonders peculiar to Ionia;
and Vitruvius mentions this among the four temples, which have raised
their architects to the summit of renown[17].
There was a magnificent theatre also built of stone, but cased with
marble, and greatly enriched with sculptures. There was also one temple
of Venus in this town, and another in the neighbourhood.
Miletus is now called Palatskia (the palaces). Notwithstanding its
title, and the splendour of its ancient condition, it is but a mean
place now. The principal relic of its former magnificence is a ruined
theatre, measuring in length four hundred and fifty-seven feet. The
external face of this vast fabric is marble. The front has been removed.
A few seats only remain, and those, as usual, ranged on the slope of a
hill. The vaults which supported the extremities, with the arches or
avenues of the two wings, are constructed with such solidity, that they
will not easily be demolished. The entrance of the vault is nearly
filled up with rubbish; but when Dr. Chandler crept into it, led by an
Armenian, with a candle in a long paper lantern, innumerable bats began
flitting about them; and the stench was intolerable.
The town was spread with rubbish and overgrown with thickets. The
vestiges of “the heathen city,” are pieces of wall, broken arches, and a
few scattered pedestals and inscriptions, a square marble urn, and many
wells. One of the pedestals has belonged to a statue of the Emperor
Hadrian, who was a friend to the Milesians, as appears from the titles
of Saviour and Benefactor, bestowed upon him. Another has supported the
Emperor Severus, and has a long inscription, with this preamble: “_The
senate and people of the city of the Milesians, the first settled in
Ionia, and the mother of many and great cities both in Pontus and Egypt,
and in various other parts of the world._” This lies among the bushes
behind the theatre.
Several piers of an aqueduct are standing. Near the ferry is a large
couchant lion, of white marble; and in a Turkish burying-ground another;
and traces remain of an old fortress. Besides these, there are a
considerable number of forsaken mosques; and among the ruins are several
fragments of ancient churches.
Wheler says, that in his time, there were many inscriptions, most of
them defaced by time and weather; some upon single stones, others upon
very large tombs. On one of them were carved two women hunting, with
three dogs; the foremost holding a hare in its mouth.
“Miletus,” says Dr. Chandler, from whom we have borrowed several
passages in this article, “was once powerful and illustrious. The early
navigators extended its commerce to remote regions; the whole Euxine
Sea, the Propontis, Egypt, and other countries, were frequented by its
ships, and settled by its colonies. It withstood Darius, and refused to
admit Alexander. It has been styled the metropolis and head of Ionia;
the bulwark of Asia; chief in war and peace; mighty by sea; the fertile
mother, which had poured forth her sons to every quarter. It afterwards
fell so low as to furnish a proverbial saying, ‘The Milesians were once
great;’ but if we compare its ancient glory, and its subsequent
humiliation, with its present state, we may justly exclaim, ‘Miletus,
how much lower art thou now fallen[18]!’”
NO. IV.—NAUPLIA.
This town, now called Napoli di Romania, is situate along the foot of
the rocky promontory, which projects into the sea, at the head of the
gulf of Napoli. Its walls were built by the Venetians.
Ancient Nauplia, which is said to have been built by Nauplius, absurdly
called the son of Neptune, became the chief naval arsenal of the
Argives. Even so early as the time of Pausanias, however, it had become
desolate; only a few remains of a temple, and of the walls, then
existing. Its modern history is rather interesting.
The Venetians obtained possession in 1460. In 1495 it surrendered to
Bajazet, but was again taken by the Venetians, under Morozini, in 1586,
after a month’s siege, and became the head-quarters of that nation, in
the Morea. In 1714, it was treacherously given up to Ali Coumourgi, and
was the seat of Turkish government, and residence of the Pasha of the
Morea; till Tripolizzi was selected as being more central; when it
became subject to the Bey of Argos. The crescent remained
uninterruptedly flying on this fortress, till the 12th of December 1822,
when it surrendered to the Greeks, after a long and tedious blockade;
the Turkish garrison having been reduced to such a state of starvation,
as to feed on the corpses of their companions. In 1825, Ibrahim Pasha
made a fruitless attempt to surprise the place; and it has been the
strong-hold of the Greeks in their struggle for liberty. In April, 1826,
the commission of government held their sittings here; but were obliged
to retire to Ægina, on account of civil dissentions, and two of the
revolted chiefs being in possession of the Palamadi. During the
presidency of Capo d’Istrias, who always resided, and was assassinated
in the town, it again became the seat of government; and on the 31st of
January, 1833, Otho, Prince of Bavaria, arrived here, as first king of
restored Greece.
The strength of Napoli is the citadel, which is called the Palamadi,
over whose turreted walls a few cypresses raise their sombre heads. It
stands on the easternmost and highest elevation of the promontory, and
completely overhangs and commands the town. To all appearance it is
impregnable, and, from its situation and aspect, has been termed the
Gibraltar of Greece. It is seven hundred and twenty feet above the sea;
and has only one assailable point, where a narrow isthmus connects it
with the main land; and this is overlooked by a rocky precipice.
Mr. Dodwell made fruitless inquiries in respect to the caves and
labyrinths near Nauplia, which are said to have been formed by the
Cyclops; but a minute examination is neither a safe nor easy
undertaking. “The remains that are yet unknown,” says he, “will be
brought to light, when the reciprocal jealousy of the European powers
permits the Greeks to break their chains,[19] and to chase from their
outraged territory that host of dull oppressors, who have spread the
shades of ignorance over the land that was once illuminated by science,
and who unconsciously trample on the venerable dust of the Pelopidæ and
the Atridæ.”
Nauplia is a miserable village; the houses have nothing peculiar about
them, but are built in the common form of the lowest habitations of the
villages of France and Savoy. The inhabitants are indolent. “The
indolence of the Neapolitans,” says M. La Martine, “is mild, serene, and
gay—the carelessness of happiness; while that of the Greek is heavy,
morose, and sombre; it is a vice, which punishes itself.”[20]
NO. V.—NEMEA.
A town of Argolis, greatly distinguished by the games once celebrated
there. These games (called the Nemean games) were originally instituted
by the Argives in honour of Archemorus, who died from the bite of a
serpent; and, afterwards, renewed in honour of Hercules, who in that
neighbourhood is said to have destroyed a lion by squeezing him to
death.
These games consisted of foot and horse races, and chariot races;
boxing, wrestling, and contests of every kind, both gymnastic and
equestrian. They were celebrated on the 12th of our August, on the 1st
and 3rd of every Olympiad; and continued long after those of Olympia
were abolished.
In the neighbouring mountains is still shown the den of the lion, said
to have been slain by Hercules; near which stand the remains of a
considerable temple, dedicated to Jupiter Nemeus and Cleomenes, formerly
surrounded by a grove of cypresses.
Of this temple three columns only are remaining. These columns, two of
which belonging to the space between antæ, support their architrave.
These columns are four feet six inches and a half in diameter, and
thirty-one feet ten inches and a half in height, exclusive of the
capitals. The single column is five feet three inches diameter, and
belongs to the peristyle. The temple was hexastyle and peripteral, and
is supposed to have had fourteen columns on the sides. The general
intercolumniation is seven feet and a half, and those at the angles five
feet eleven inches and a quarter. It stands upon three steps, each of
which is one foot two inches in height. The capital of the exterior
column has been shaken out of its place, and will probably ere long fall
to the ground. “I have not seen in Greece,” continues Mr. Dodwell, “any
Doric temple, the columns of which are of such slender proportions as
those of Nemea. The epistylia are thin and meagre, and the capitals too
small for the height of the columns. It is constructed of a soft
calcareous stone, which is an aggregate of sand and small petrified
shells, and the columns are coated with a fine stucco. Pausanias praises
the beauty of the temple; but, even in his time, the roof had fallen,
and not a single statue was left.”
No fragments of marble are found amongst the ruins, but an excavation
would probably be well repaid, as the temple was evidently thrown down
at one moment, and if it contained any sculptured marbles, they are
still concealed by the ruins.
Near the temple are several blocks of stones, some fluted Doric frusta,
and a capital of small dimensions. This is supposed to have formed part
of the sepulchre of Archemorus. Mr. Dodwell, however, found no traces of
the tumulus of Lycurgus, his father, king of Nemea, mentioned by
Pausanias, nor any traces of the theatre and stadium.
Beyond the temple is a remarkable summit, the top of which is flat, and
visible in the gulf of Corinth. On one side is a ruinous church, with
some rubbish; perhaps where Osspaltes and his father are said to have
been buried. Near it is a very large fig-tree. To this a goatherd
repaired daily before noon with his flock, which huddled together in the
shade until the extreme heat was over, and then proceeded orderly to
feed in the cool upon the mountain.
“Nemea,” continues Mr. Dodwell, “is more characterised by gloom than
most of the places I have seen. The splendour of religious pomp, and the
long animation of gymnastic and equestrian exercises, have been
succeeded by the dreary vacancy of a death-like solitude. We saw no
living creatures but a ploughman and his oxen, in a spot which was once
exhilarated by the gaiety of thousands, and resounded with the shouts of
a crowded population[21].”
NO. VI.—NINEVEH.
Of Nineveh, the mighty city of old,
How like a star she fell and pass’d away!
ATHERSTONE.
The Assyrian empire was founded by Ashur, the son of Shem, according to
some writers; but according to others, by Nimrod; and to others, by
Ninus.
Ninus, according to Diodorus Siculus, is to be esteemed the most ancient
of the Assyrian kings. Being of a warlike disposition, and ambitious of
that glory which results from courage, says he, he armed a considerable
number of young men, that were brave and vigorous like himself; trained
them up in laborious exercises and hardships, and by that means
accustomed them to bear the fatigues of war patiently, and to face
dangers with intrepidity. What Diodorus states of Ninus, however, is
much more applicable to his father, Nimrod, the son of Cush, grandson of
Cham, and great-grandson of Noah; he who is signalised in scripture as
having been “a mighty hunter before the Lord;” a distinction which he
gained from having delivered Assyria from the fury and dread of wild
animals; and from having, also, by this exercise of hunting, trained up
his followers to the use of arms, that he might make use of them for
other purposes more serious and extensive.
The next king of Assyria was NINUS, the son of Nimrod. This prince
prepared a large army, and in the course of seventeen years conquered a
vast extent of country; extending to Egypt on one side, and to India and
Bactriana on the other. On his return he resolved on building the
largest and noblest city in the world; so extensive and magnificent, as
to leave it in the power of none, that should come after him, to build
such another. It is probable, however, that Nimrod laid the foundations
of this city, and that Ninus completed it: for the ancient writers often
gave the name of founder to persons, who were only entitled to the
appellation of restorer or improver.
This city was called NINEVEH. Its form and extent are thus related by
Diodorus, who states that he took his account from Ctesias the
Gnidian:—“It was of a long form; for on both sides it ran out about
twenty-three miles. The two lesser angles, however, were only ninety
furlongs a-piece; so that the circumference of the whole was about
seventy-four miles. The walls were one hundred feet in height; and so
broad, that three chariots might be driven together upon it abreast; and
on these walls were fifteen hundred turrets, each of which was two
hundred feet high.”
When the improver had finished the city, he appointed it to be inhabited
by the richest Assyrians; but gave leave, at the same time, to people of
other nations (as many as would) to dwell there; and, moreover, allowed
to the citizens at large a considerable territory next adjoining them.
Having finished the city, Ninus marched into Bactria; his army
consisting of one million seven hundred thousand men, two hundred
thousand horse, and sixteen thousand chariots armed with scythes. This
number is, doubtless, greatly exaggerated. With so large a force, he
could do no otherwise than conquer a great number of cities. But
having, at last, laid siege to Bactria, the capital of the country, it
is said that he would probably have failed in his enterprise against
that city, had he not been assisted by the counsel of Semiramis, wife to
one of his officers, who directed him in what manner to attack the
citadel. By her means he entered the city, and becoming entire master of
it, he got possession of an immense treasure. He soon after married
Semiramis; her husband having destroyed himself, to prevent the effects
of some threats that Ninus had thrown out against him. By Semiramis,
Ninus had one son, whom he named Ninyas; and dying not long after,
Semiramis became queen: who, to honour his memory, erected a magnificent
monument, which is said to have remained a long time after the
destruction of the city.
The history of this queen is so well known,[22] that we shall not
enlarge upon it; we having already done so in our account of Babylon;
for she was one of the enlargers of that mighty city.
There is a very great difference of opinion, in regard to the time in
which Semiramis lived. According to
A. C.
Sanchoniathon, she lived 1200
Herodotus 500
Syncellus 2177
Petavius 2060
Helvicus 2248
Eusebius 1984
Archbishop Usher 1215
Alexander’s opinion of this celebrated woman may be gathered from the
following passage of his speech to his army:—“You wish to enjoy me
long; and even, if it were possible, for ever; but, as to myself, I
compute the length of my existence, not by years, but by glory. I might
have confined my ambition within the narrow limits of Macedonia; and,
contented with the kingdom my ancestors left me, have waited, in the
midst of pleasures and indolence, an inglorious old age. I own that if
my victories, not my years, are computed, I shall seem to have lived
long; but can you imagine, that after having made Europe and Asia but
one empire, after having conquered the two noblest parts of the world,
in the tenth year of my reign and the thirtieth of my age, that it will
become me to stop in the midst of so exalted a career, and discontinue
the pursuit of glory to which I have entirely devoted myself? Know, that
this glory ennobles all things, and gives a true and solid grandeur to
whatever appears insignificant. In what place soever I may fight, I
shall fancy myself upon the stage of the world, and in presence of all
mankind. I confess that I have achieved mighty things hitherto; but the
country we are now in reproaches me that a woman has done still greater.
It is Semiramis I mean. How many nations did she conquer! How many
cities were built by her! What magnificent and stupendous works did she
finish! How shameful is it, that I should not yet have attained to so
high a pitch of glory! Do but second my ardour, and I will soon surpass
her. Defend me only from secret cabals and domestic treasons, by which
most princes lose their lives; I take the rest upon myself, and will be
answerable to you for all the events of the war.”
“This speech,” says Rollin, “gives us a perfect idea of Alexander’s
character. He had no notion of true glory. He did not know either the
principle, the rule, or end of it. He certainly placed it where it was
not. He was strongly prejudiced in vulgar error, and cherished it. He
fancied himself born merely for glory; and that none could be acquired
but by unbounded, unjust, and irregular conduct. In his impetuous
sallies after a mistaken glory, he followed neither reason, virtue, nor
humanity; and as if his ambitious caprice ought to have been a rule and
standard to all other men, he was surprised that neither his officers
nor soldiers would enter into his views, and that they lent themselves
very unwillingly to support his ridiculous enterprises.” These remarks
are well worthy the distinguished historian who makes them.
Semiramis was succeeded by her son Ninyas; a weak and effeminate prince,
who shut himself up in the city, and, seldom engaging in affairs,
naturally became an object of contempt to all the inhabitants. His
successors are said to have followed his example; and some of them even
went beyond him in luxury and indolence. Of their history no trace
remains.
At length we come to Pull, supposed to be the father of Sardanapalus; in
whose reign Jonah is believed to have lived. “The word of the Lord,”
says the Hebrew scripture, “came unto Jonah, the son of Amittai, saying,
Arise, go to Nineveh, that great city, and cry against it; for their
wickedness is come up before me.” Jonah, instead of acting as he was
commanded, went to Joppa, and thence to Tarshish. He was overtaken by a
storm, swallowed by a whale, and thrown up again. Being commanded again,
he arose and went to Nineveh, “_an exceedingly great city of three days’
journey_;” where, having warned the inhabitants, that in forty days
their city should be overthrown, the people put on sackcloth, “from the
greatest of them even to the least.” The king sat in ashes, and
proclaimed a fast. “Let neither man nor beast,” said the edict, “herd
nor flock, taste any thing; let them not feed, nor drink water; but let
man and beast be covered with sackcloth; and cry mightily unto God; yea,
let them turn every one from his evil way, and from the violence that
is in their hands. Who can tell if God will turn and repent, and turn
away from his fierce anger, that we perish not?”