“The beautiful is the suitable.” “A woman careless of her dress is
either unloved, or unhappy.” “Dress is to the body what good sense is
to the mind.” “Dress is really a department of manners,” and appeals to
the eye with the same force that gracious words and softly keyed voices
appeal to the ear. Costliness is not the measure of the beauty of
dress. Nay, rather suitability, harmony, becomingness, unobtrusiveness,
fitness for the place and person are the qualities that make it perfect.
And because these canons of good taste are so frequently sinned against
it has seemed best to give the proper dress and appointments for the
proper times. Not as to particular styles for they are fleeting as the
breath of fashion, but as to general principles which are well nigh
changeless. Once certain of these fundamental principles, embarrassment
and self-consciousness are banished.
Dress at Home.
It is, perhaps, the dress at home that tells most of the care and
character of the wearer. Much regard is given to the dress for other
occasions, but here comes the test of delicacy and refinement, the
criterion of the individual.
Neatness is the first requisite, suitability the second. There is
nothing more of an offense to good taste than seeing the delicate
fabric, the ribbons, the laces of a once elegant toilet, degraded to
the uses of the kitchen, spotted and soiled almost beyond recognition.
Have gowns adapted to the tasks for which they are intended. The neat
gingham, the plain wool gown, are pretty and appropriate for the
morning wear of any lady who must superintend the workings of her own
household. Aprons, gloves, dust caps, which can be quickly doffed
and will leave her neat and presentable for the stray morning caller
without the necessity, on her part, of a change of costume, and on his,
of a tedious waiting.
For afternoon the prettiest of toilets may be worn in the shape of
house-dresses, or tea-jackets made of otherwise useless remnants
of bright silks, and ribbons may be used to wear with otherwise
presentable skirts whose original bodices have been long outworn.
Trains, medium, are always pretty in the house, hence tea-gowns, from
the richest to the most modest in cost, are always in favor. Avoid very
short skirts for the house; they are awkward, and belittle you from a
mental as well as a physical standpoint.
Observe the utmost neatness in every detail of the toilet for home or
street. It is an old rule, but a very good one, that a woman may be
judged “by her boots, gloves and pocket-handkerchiefs.” To this may be
added “finger nails,” and last but not least, skirt edges. “No matter
how elegant the general get-up may be,” asserts one fastidious critic,
“if a woman’s skirt binding is muddy, frayed, or pendant, she is, to my
mind, not a gentlewoman.”
The General Fitness.
The style of the person should have much to do with choosing the
style of dress for any occasion. Only people lacking the slightest
originality of mind would think of blindly following the dictates of
fashion without any reference to their own physical style.
Very short women should not wear very large hats. Women with very thin
faces should avoid wide hat brims and many plumes. Women with large,
full faces should not go to the extreme in wearing small bonnets. To
do so is but to exaggerate the defect in each case. No matter what the
extremity of style may be, there is always a happy medium from which to
choose.
Flying curls and a great superabundance of ribbons and fluttering ends
belong only to a young girl. To persist in an extremely youthful
style of dress long after the passing of youth, instead of adding
to the apparent youth of the wearer, simply defeats its own end by
exaggerating the defects it was meant to conceal.
Small, thin women should not wear too much black. Let them wear a
profusion of fluffy laces about the throat; soft, puffy vests, or,
as one writer observes, “learn something from Sara Bernhardt and her
consummate skill in concealing bones.”
Short, stout women should see that all adornments, such as folds,
plaits, etc., keep as much as possible in perpendicular lines. It is a
mistake to think that perfect plainness will disguise the breadth, it
rather emphasizes it. On this style of woman a loosely-fitted wrap has
a better effect for the street than a tight, plain garment.
Common-Sense Sleeves.
A very stout or a very thin woman should never wear extremely light
sleeves, no matter what the style may be. The stout woman should also
avoid an elbow sleeve with loosely falling ruffles, and the trimming,
if possible, should run in lengthwise folds or bands. This precaution
tends to decrease the apparent size of the arm. The slender woman, on
the contrary, is much improved by the puffed elbow sleeve ending with a
fall of lace.
Let women learn to put on belts so that they will slip downward in
front and up in the back. This does everything for the waist in making
it look slender and graceful. If yokes are worn, it is well to remember
that a deep yoke is more becoming than a narrow one. If it is short in
front, it looks awkward, and if it is short behind, it gives a round
shouldered effect.
Where a rich toilet is worn for any occasion, be sure that everything
is in keeping. If the gown be of velvet do not wear with it a linen
collar or cheap lace. If real lace is beyond the means there are always
the filmy tulles and _crepe lisse_. If jewelry is worn, it should be
of the best, be it much or little. The fan, also, for such a costume
should carry out the idea of luxury.
Cheap, fanciful, pretty things have their place in connection with
soft wool, or pretty cotton costumes, but “lightness or grace is one
thing; magnificence or luxury, another.”
A very young girl should never wear rich, heavy fabrics; they are
unsuited to her youthful face and ways.
The evils of tight lacing are so pronounced that it would seem almost
unnecessary to remonstrate against them in this age of enlightenment,
were they not so continually forced upon our view. Nothing could be
more unbecoming to the women fair, fat and forty, who are usually the
ones to adopt this custom; an inch less in waist is hardly gained at
the price of an unbecoming flush, a labored breathing, and a serious
injury to the health, besides the lack of grace that comes from binding
and constricting any portion of the human form divine.
Gloves and Shoes.
To have many dresses is always a mistake even among the very wealthy.
They are constantly going out of fashion and unless the owner is
continually seen at balls, receptions and other gatherings, they are
entirely unnecessary.
The glove of to-day is fitted comfortably. Nothing is more indicative
of a lack of taste than to crowd the hand into a glove that is several
sizes too small for it. The same might be said of the foot, and with
more reason, since a painfully tight shoe not only injures the health,
comfort and complexion of the wearer, but is ruinous to all grace of
carriage.
There is nothing marks the true lady as much as the perfection of
neatness and style in gloves and shoes. To be well gloved and to have
one’s feet neatly clad, no matter how plain the attire, is to be well
dressed.
(Other hints on this subject will be found in the departments of “Art
in Dress” and “Colors and Complexions.”)
The umbrella, too, must be carefully chosen. If it is possible to
have parasols and umbrellas for different occasions, then there is
no difficulty of choice, but where one must answer for all occasions
of the season, let it be a plain, dark or black silk. This will be
suitable at all times, but if the fancy of the moment, as to pale and
delicate colorings be consulted, the result is too often painfully
incongruous. In buying gloves, shoes or umbrellas, it is worth while to
invest in a good article. There is no economy in the poorer grades.
Artifices of the Toilet.
All artificial aids to beauty should be sparingly used, and have no
place whatever upon the toilet table of the young girl. Powder and
paint are so obvious to the eye, that their use, or rather abuse, by
some otherwise sensible women, is a continual wonder. A dust of rice
powder is sometimes excusable, but there can be no possible apology for
the “made-up” faces one sees upon our streets. They deceive no one and
have no excuse for being. The woman who stands in the pitiless glare
of the footlights must needs add color to replace that stolen from her
face by the strong white light of day, but others have no such excuse
for “frescoing” the face. It is a sin alike against good taste and good
breeding.
There are various simple preparations that can be used to clear the
skin, and various massage treatments to smooth out the cruel little
lines that time writes on all faces, and kindly unguents to fill out
the hollow cheeks and temples, and thus keep the outlines of youth a
little longer. And there is wholesome living and vigorous exercise, and
daily and revivifying baths to call the flush of health to the cheek;
and loving thoughts and kindly deeds to keep the eyes soft and bright,
and thus to set the inroads of time at defiance for many years. And
since a woman is no older than she looks, and since the prerogatives
of youth are dear to the heart, it is her bounden duty to keep herself
sweet and young.
There is one excusable addition to the personal charms and that is
where nature has denied the grace of luxuriant locks. This lack can
be so cunningly supplied by the hairdresser’s art that detection is
impossible, and as it ever has been, and ever will be, that a woman’s
hair is a glory unto her, there can be no reason against her hiding
from view any lack of it when it is done in an artistic fashion.
When to Wear Jewels.
Mme. de Maintenon declared that good taste simply indicates good sense,
but many women who boast of good sense seem not to have the slightest
idea of the times and places for wearing precious stones.
It is conceded by all authorities that articles of adornment consisting
of or containing jewels or precious stones should never be worn in the
street. Exception is made in favor of rings and watches. The woman
who wishes to adopt correct form in dress will never wear any but the
simplest little pin to fasten her gown at the throat during the morning
hours and on the street.
For ceremonious visits, a pretty and ornamental pin of gold is proper,
or of gold and enamel, but even then it should have a useful purpose;
it should fasten some part of the toilet. The enameled and gold wreaths
of myrtle or of forget-me-nots are extremely pretty for these simple
pins. So are the true love-nots or a flower of enamel upon gold, but
without the all-prevailing diamond dewdrop or center.
For dinner, a woman may wear the richest gems, it being understood that
the function is a ceremonious one, and that she shall wear a low gown.
Should she dine in a more democratic way and the men of the family do
not wear evening dress, she naturally will wear a high gown or one
possibly open a little at the throat. She may wear a pin with a single
gem under these circumstances.
For balls, operas or entertainments of corresponding splendor, a woman,
when she is not herself the hostess, may wear any number of well-chosen
jewels. It is quite correct to be sumptuous in this particular, but
well to remember that jewels, like flowers, harmonize or do not
harmonize, and that emeralds and turquoises, for example, may not be
worn in conjunction, because, as the French say, “they swear at each
other.”
It is not good form to wear ornaments made in the form of beasts or
reptiles. The sacred emblem of the cross set in shining jewels and worn
at ball or rout, shows a most pitiable ignorance of the eternal fitness
of things.
Well bred young girls are limited as to jewels—a string of pearls
for the slender neck, a ring with the natal stone or an armament of
turquoises and pearls, a little gold love manacle about the wrist, that
is all, and quite enough until after marriage. A bride may wear for the
marriage ceremony either diamonds or pearls—not in profusion—but never
gold ornaments.
Use of Scents and Flowers.
The use of various scents is more sinned against than any other toilet
accessory. Only the faintest suggestion of perfume should be allowed
to hang about the garments of a well-bred woman or girl. To wear any
redolence on the person in the shape of sachet bags is unpardonable.
To many people strong perfumes are extremely unpleasant, and those who
have regard for the feelings of others would forbear their use for
this reason alone, even were it not a sin against the canons of good
breeding as well.
When perfumes are used, it is a dainty custom to choose one favorite
scent and to use that, and that only, so that in time the sweet,
illusive odor becomes almost a part of the personality.
Flowers, fresh, dewy flowers seem the natural adornment of youth
especially, and to forswear the pretty custom would appear an
uncalled-for giving up of the sweet thought which dedicates the flowers
of the field to their human prototypes. Yet there is reason in the
custom that has, in great measure, withdrawn them from the heated
ball-room and the artificially illuminated dinner table.
Corsage bouquets, in dancing, become an early ruin. Carried in the
hand at a ball, they are speedily tossed aside on the nearest point of
refuge and left there to ignominiously fade. When flowers are worn at
an evening entertainment, choose those that will best stand the light
and heat.
The Face Veil.
In spite of the protestations of oculists, women continue to regard
veils as an essential part of their toilets; first, because they are
becoming; and, second, because they keep their hair in order. The
plain tulles and nets, which come in all colors, single and double
widths, are always pleasant to wear and less trying to the eyes than
the coarser meshes. The veil of Brussels net wrought in sprigged
designs is a failure. It is becoming to nobody, and is essentially
inartistic.
Women with dark hair and eyes and a brilliant color look well in veils
with the dots larger and nearer together. If the skin is clear, white
veils are very becoming, though apt to give an impression of a made-up
complexion. The woman with fair hair and blue eyes, and without color,
generally looks best in a large meshed black veil, with the dots—if
dots are worn—far apart. A navy blue veil makes the skin look clear and
fair, and a gray veil should never be worn by the pale or sallow woman.
When to Wear Gloves.
The question of when to wear gloves is a much disputed point in the
etiquette of dress. They are worn to dinner parties, but custom
prescribes that they shall be removed in sitting down at the table.
After using the finger-bowl, the gloves should be resumed before
leaving the table, or else immediately after returning to the
drawing-room. To wear gloves while assisting to pour tea for an “at
home,” is out of place, but it is very usual to wear them while
receiving in the afternoon, though their omission at such a time is
pardonable. The visitors, of course, wear both gloves and bonnets.
At a “stand-up” evening supper it is not usual to remove the gloves
since there is really no time or place to do it, where each one is
expected to leave as soon as possible to make room for the next. Remove
the hand only of the right glove and tuck it back under the wrist.
Dancing parties always call for gloves, preferably light in tint. To
wear gloves while playing cards is also an unnecessary affectation of
elegance. Walking, driving, shopping and all outdoor events, such as
lawn parties, etc., call for gloves. Tint and quality of these are to
be regulated by the occasion or the costume.
When to Wear Low-cut Gowns.
This question has but one answer, “Never by daylight.” In this respect
the rule that governs the wearing of a man’s dress suit—“from dusk to
dawn,” is applicable. Even on those occasions when the jealous daylight
is shut out and candlelight reigns, dress suits and full _décolleté_
gowns are not permissible. A concession can be made by cutting the
corsage a little low in the throat, and by elbow sleeves or almost no
sleeves.
For every social function held from midday to a late dinner hour, young
girls, especially, should wear their gowns cut high with long sleeves,
except on some gala occasion, when the rule may be somewhat relaxed as
above.
Even at balls, evening parties, late dinners, the young girl’s evening
dress, if _décolleté_, should be very modest in cut. Where a dinner and
dance follow a large afternoon reception and the men who are invited
are apt to arrive at dinner in full evening dress, a girl’s dress may
be somewhat elaborated, but not to the extreme of ball costume.
Ball Dress.
For the ball-room the most elaborate dress is to be worn; _décolleté_
corsage, flowers and jewels are all appropriate. Those who dance should
wear pale colors and light, floating fabrics, leaving the heavy silks
and velvets for those who do not indulge in this amusement.
A low-cut corsage is not expected of elderly women unless they wish
it. Chaperons can wear an elegant dinner dress if they desire; velvets
or brocades, cut square in the neck, with a profusion of fine lace and
rich ornaments. In short, she should be as different as possible from
her charge.
If an elderly woman of full figure wears a low-necked dress, a lace
scarf or something of that sort should be thrown over her shoulders.
Gowns cut dancing length or with train, are appropriate for the
ball-room, but where much dancing is to be indulged in, trains are very
much in the way.
Opera Dress.
For the opera the most elegant dressing is desirable. Ladies may wear
evening gowns, and men dress suits. If they occupy boxes this is almost
an obligation. Light colors render the house more attractive—are, in
fact, a part of the whole spectacle. Jewels and flowers are there, and
those who wear visiting or street costume are in the minority.
If a man wear a dress suit it is expected that the woman will show him
sufficient respect to wear an evening gown. The man’s costume is donned
out of respect for the occasion and the woman, and she betrays utter
ignorance or remissness of duty when she does not return the compliment
in kind.
High hats are an abomination at opera or theater. Where anything is
worn upon the head it should be in the shape of a tiny bonnet, a dainty
confection of tulle, flowers and ribbon.
This is especially necessary where a public conveyance must be made use
of to reach the place. At an opera matinée the bonnet must be worn in
connection with an elegant visiting or reception costume.
Middle-aged women wear the same costume at the opera that they would at
a dinner party.
Theater Costume.
To dress for the theater is a much simpler matter than for the opera.
Display is not required here. Elegant visiting or promenade costume
is appropriate. Dressy little bonnets or small hats, gloves, either
matching the gown or light in tint, complete the theater toilet. If a
large hat is worn to the theater, common courtesy demands its removal
that those in the rear may see the stage.
Dress for concerts admits of a little more display than for the
theater. A silk gown with a little lace and jewelry, and white or light
kid gloves.
Dinner Dress.
A lady’s dinner dress may be elegant as her fancy dictates. But if she
is hostess she should never try to eclipse her guests. Trained gowns
are eminently suitable, and may be worn by maids or matrons alike. Full
length trains are not necessary, and even demi-trains need not be worn
by very young women. But the soft sweep of a train lends an added grace
to a woman’s gown, and this is one of the few places where it can be
appropriately worn. The corsage may be cut square, or heart-shaped,
or opened at the throat in any pretty way, but never so low as for a
ball dress. Sleeves are usually half length, and bracelets are given
an opportunity for display. Long gloves must be worn. As to color,
all shades, from the safe selection of a black silk or velvet, down
to the palest tints, are in order, the only proviso being that color
and material suit the style of the wearer. An elderly lady inclined
to stoutness, and with a florid cast of countenance, is at her worst
in light silks or satin. They heighten her defects, while darker
shades subdue her coloring and serve to decrease her apparent size and
superfluous breadth.
For a young girl, a simple dress of wool goods in white, or pale
becoming tints, is all that is necessary. Open it slightly at
the throat, soften it with a little lace, show the pretty arms
in a demi-sleeve, and it is far more suited to her youth than an
over-elaborate gown.
If the dinner is held by daylight and the men wear morning dress the
ladies must confine themselves to high-cut gowns turned in slightly at
the front and fastened with a simple pin of gold enamel, with, perhaps,
a single gem at its heart.
Traveling Notes.
A dress for traveling should be plain and serviceable; a tint should
be chosen that does not show soil or dust. A duster, an ulster or
over-garment of some kind made of pongee silk, linen or whatever
material is in vogue, should be worn to protect the costume from smoke
and dust.
[Illustration: TRAVELING COSTUME.]
The hat should be plain and a veil worn to shield the eyes from cinders
when traveling by railway. A pair of slightly smoked spectacles are
very good for this purpose. Carry an extra wrap and a hand-satchel to
hold the needed toilet articles. Let everything else go in the trunk. A
woman burdened with “big bundle, little bundle, bandbox and umbrella,”
is a burden to herself and a terror to others. Let the satchel contain
a flask of some invigorating toilet water—Florida, lavender or whatever
is most refreshing, with a soft sponge to bathe the face, hands and
wrists, and thereby many a headache can be warded off. If traveling
in a sleeping coach, a larger valise should be carried and ought
to contain a pretty loose gown of dark silk or wool to serve as a
slumber robe, since clad in this one may safely venture from berth to
dressing-room without exciting observation.
The rule for traveling dress is that there should be nothing about
a lady to attract attention, but this is relaxed in case of ladies
traveling a short distance for a brief visit, who are privileged to
wear the dress that suits their purpose.
Bridal Dress.
The conventional bridal dress is pure white, whether the material be
satin, silk or muslin. It may be made trained or walking length. If a
veil is worn the gown is cut _en train_. White satin slippers must be
worn and white gloves. Rip the fourth finger of the left-hand glove
ready for the ring; the maid of honor will turn this back at the proper
moment. Natural flowers are carried and a wreath is worn with a veil.
The veil should sweep to the edge of the train and may be simply a
cloud of sheerest tulle or filmy lace worth a king’s ransom. It may be
worn over the face or not, as fancy dictates. Sometimes a white leather
or pearl bound prayer-book is carried instead of the bouquet. This
custom has the advantage of having the prayer-book as a memento of the
occasion, while the flowers wither. A young girl, known to the writer,
carried with her to the altar the same prayer-book that her mother
before her had carried on her wedding day.
The wedding dress, no matter what its material, must be cut high in
the neck and with long sleeves. This in deference to the fact that a
marriage is not simply a gala occasion, but the turning point for weal
or woe in the bride’s life, and a solemn sacrament of the church, and
not to be celebrated in the garb of frivolity.
Where flowers are worn, orange blossoms are particularly appropriate,
though no German maiden would think of donning the bridal veil
without its attendant myrtle wreath. Any white flowers, however, are
appropriate.
Where jewels are worn the choice is absolutely confined to pearls and
diamonds (not in too great profusion). Instead of flowers, the veil is
sometimes fastened with a star or sunburst of diamonds.
Widows, no matter how youthful, are not privileged to wear the white
bridal robe, the veil, nor the orange blossoms. However, the most
exquisitely delicate tints may be chosen for their adornment.
If the marriage is private and the bride leaves immediately on her
wedding trip she can be married in her traveling suit. At other private
weddings, where no trip is taken, the bride usually wears a pretty
reception or visiting costume of silk or wool, choosing some color that
will be appropriate for after-wear.
The bride’s mother, whether the wedding be at home or in church, wears
an elegant reception gown. Even if she be in deep mourning she lays
aside its sombre shades for this one hour. Invited guests should also
avoid mourning garb.
Bridemaid’s Dress.
The bridemaids’ dresses are often all of white, but frequently color
are chosen, sometimes all alike; again, two by two of different hues.
The material of these gowns must be much less expensive than that of
the bride’s. Their bouquets or baskets of flowers may be either white
or colored. They sometimes wear lovely picture hats with broad brims
and drooping plumes.
What Wedding Guests Wear.
If the wedding reception is held in the evening, full evening dress is
worn; reception gowns being suitable for the elder ladies. (See “Ball
Dress.”) Where children are present, the girls are dressed in sheer
muslin or lace over silk slips, and adorned with fluttering ribbons.
The boys in fanciful costumes, such as pages’ suits, etc. If it is a
morning reception, rich visiting or promenade costumes should be worn,
small dress bonnets and white gloves.
Ordinary Evening Dress.
This applies to small parties at home or with friends, to receiving
calls at home or in making an evening call. It should be appropriate to
the season. Pretty wool goods, exquisitely made, in winter; organdies,
grenadines and mulls for summer; laces, a modest bit of jewelry or a
simple flower, and one is sufficiently well-gowned.
If the gathering is a little more formal, reception dresses may be worn
by the matrons, while the young ladies garb themselves as for receiving
at an afternoon tea.
If gloves are worn at all on such an occasion they must be light
colored. They are really unnecessary, unless the taste of that especial
“set” is very strongly in their favor. If in doubt, it is well to go
furnished with a pair for use in case one finds all the guests gloved,
and has not the moral courage to remain the exception.
Dress for Church.
Well-bred people attend church in simple costumes, free from display.
These may be of rich materials, but they are quiet in color and make.
Jewelry, other than a simple pin, should not be used; earrings, of
course, if one is in the habit of wearing them, but not diamonds. The
church is not the place to flaunt elegant attire in the face of less
fortunate worshipers in the “I-am-richer-than-thou” style that marks
the _parvenu_.
Receiving Calls.
A lady with regular days for receiving calls wears a reception dress
as before described. Casual callers she receives in her morning or
afternoon house dress. Her morning dress, if she superintends her
household affairs, should be plain and neat, and be so protected by cap
and apron that by doffing these, she will be presentable in a moment.
Where there are no household cares, a daintier morning dress may be
adopted, but let it be suitable to the occasion, not some old, half
worn finery revamped for the occasion. If visiting, a still richer gown
may be worn, and for a late breakfast at a watering place one may be
quite luxurious.
Calling or Visiting Costume.
For morning calls dress quietly in promenade costume. Wear
light-colored gloves unless in deep mourning. If driving, carriage
dress may be worn. For day receptions the dress may be more elaborate
and the bonnet more “dressy.”
By not carefully distinguishing between the gowns for different
occasions and over-dressing at all times, women lose all the advantages
of contrast in style. If lace and silk are worn indiscriminately, what
is there left for the full dress function?
Walking Dress.
This should be plain—tailor-made is the best—walking length, and of
good material. “Fussy” styles should not be chosen for street wear, and
the hat or bonnet should be rather plain and harmonize with the gown.
Carriage Dress.
There is much more latitude for display permitted by the carriage
dress. Rich materials, elegant wraps, costly furs, are all allowable
here.
Coaching parties, too, have grown to be occasions for most gorgeous
costuming. Every hue of the rainbow is to be seen as the lofty tally-ho
rolls past, until, so great has become the license of color and
richness of material, that the “four hundred” are calling a halt, and
soberer tints are beginning to mark this amusement.
Do not wear too many fluttering ribbons, especially if occupying
that coveted position—the box seat. It does not add to the skill and
accuracy of the driver at a critical moment to have a fluttering ribbon
cut like a whip-lash across his eyes.
Dress for Lent.
This should be the sort of gown most appropriate and becoming to the
attitude of repentance. The gowns, of course, are simple, quiet
affairs. Symphonies in gray, poems in black and white, must, says one
writer, “reflect in their construction as well as color the soberness
of the event which they will grace. A train is always admissible for
the Lenten robe—that is, if it is for house wear. Otherwise the skirt
must be short—quite short enough, indeed, to give one’s churchwomen a
glimpse of a dainty gray or black walking boot.”
Any of the heliotrope, mauve or pansy shades, also, are appropriate
expressions of the sorrow of the fashionable woman, thus giving a color
scheme capable of the most exquisite effects. White cashmere is well
suited for the house; and very little draperies, but long, straight
lines, give the sought-after effect, and thus the dainty chrysalis
rests during the forty days that precede the unfolding of the gorgeous
wings of the Easter butterfly.
Dress for Riding.
The riding-habit should be made of broadcloth or some other suitable
cloth. The skirt should be weighted by sewing shot in the lower edge of
the left-hand breadths. Equestrian tights should be worn. The habit is
sometimes worn over another dress-skirt, when, in case of dismounting
or accident, the habit-skirt can be slipped off and the rider still
left properly attired.
Very long skirts are not worn. The habit should fit perfectly and
button to the throat. Linen collar, a pretty tie and linen cuffs are
worn, and a leather glove with gauntlet. The hat should be plain, and
of the prevailing fashion.
Lawn Parties.
The dress for these occasions has been already described; sufficient
here to say it should be light and graceful, and the bonnet or hat
ornamental and effective.
Picnics and Excursions.
Light-weight wool goods, or heavy cotton or linen material that will
wash and not tear easily, is most suitable for these occasions. Linen
or cotton duck is very serviceable.
Croquet, Archery, Skating, Etc.
All of these semi-athletic games call for bright, pretty costumes,
short enough to give the freedom of movement necessary to excel in the
game. For summer out-of-door games, pliable gloves should be worn,
and a hat to protect the eyes from the sun. For skating, rich, warm
materials, fur trimmings, fur caps, and warm, furred gauntlets should
be worn.
Bathing Dress.
Bathing calls for a costume of some material that will not cling to the
form when wet. Flannel is appropriate, and a heavy quantity of mohair
also makes a successful dress, as it resists water and has no clinging
qualities. An oil-silk cap should be worn over the hair. The cut of the
dress should be modest; the costume loose and full, and it should be
made with a skirt. The neck should be cut quite high.
Yachting Dress.
This is a pretty, nautically devised and ornamented suit, made of warm
materials and those that will stand sea water.
Dress for Gentlemen.
The subject of dress, while not so complex for a man as for a woman,
must still receive a certain amount of care at his hands, for no
gentleman can possess complete disregard of reigning styles without
thereby sacrificing a certain amount of dignity in the estimation of
his associates.
As far as the cardinal points of the toilet extend, a man is bound by
the same laws of exquisite neatness that are incumbent upon a woman.
The same care of teeth, finger-nails, hands and hair is necessary.
Don’t neglect the small hairs that sometimes project from the nostrils
and the apertures of the ears. Use a small pair of scissors.
A gentleman will have spotless collars, cuffs and handkerchiefs,
irreproachable gloves, nicely blackened shoes and thoroughly brushed
clothes. Hair oil must never be used; it is ill-bred.
Clothes of plain colors are always in good taste, and so is pure white
linen. The fancy dotted and striped collars, cuffs and bosoms, so often
worn, are not as good taste.
Jewelry should be used very sparingly. Utility should be apparent in
the articles worn. Watch chain, sleeve buttons and studs (one or three,
as liked) are necessary. Where one stud is used, the stone, though
not conspicuous for size, should be a very fine one. A scarf pin is
sometimes worn, and one ring is allowable, but not too large or showy.
Don’t use quantities of perfumery, it is very bad taste.
Keep a dressing-gown for use in the dressing-room or the sickroom. It
is not a proper garment for the table or the sitting-room.
Wear the hat properly and squarely upon the head, Wear a coat at all
proper times—in the sitting-room, drawing-room, and at table.
Lastly, a gentleman avoids all conspicuous styles of dress, and
confines himself to quiet colors and well-fitting, well-cared-for
garments.
Evening Dress for Gentlemen.
The evening dress for gentlemen varies very little from year to year,
and the time of wearing it varies not at all. From “dusk to dawn,” in
other words, a gentleman wears a dress suit during the same hours that
a lady wears an evening dress.
Gentlemen’s evening dress consists of black trousers, a low-cut black
or white vest, dress or “swallow-tail” coat, and white necktie. The
linen must be immaculate. A young man wears a standing collar; an
elderly man, if he choose, may wear his favorite style, with due
deference to the reigning style. One or three studs adorn the bosom.
Properly speaking, white or very light kid gloves are a part of evening
dress, but to say whether or not they shall be worn always at a formal
dinner is hardly safe. If worn, remove them at the table; but at a ball
they are indispensable. On all doubtful occasions it is well to be
provided with a pair, to use if wished.
Evening dress is to be worn at balls, large dinners, parties and the
opera. It is never worn at church, save in case of an evening wedding.
It is never worn anywhere on Sunday. In a small town a dress suit on
any occasion is apt to seem an affectation. Never wear a dress suit
anywhere before six o’clock in the evening.
“A gentleman never looks more thoroughly a gentleman than in an evening
dress,” says one writer on etiquette, and it is well for those to whom
the occasion is liable to come to learn to wear one gracefully and
easily.
In France a dress suit is worn upon nearly all festive occasions. In
England the same customs prevail for its use as in our own country.
Morning Dress for Gentlemen.
Black cutaway, or Prince Albert coat (frock coat), black vest, white in
summer, light-colored trousers, silk or some other style of stiff hat,
and a black necktie. A light coat is never worn with black trousers.
This morning dress is worn at church, morning receptions, informal
parties, garden parties, when making calls, and at places of amusement.
Wedding Dress for Gentlemen.
At morning weddings, that is, all weddings before six o’clock, the
gentlemen, bridegroom, best man, and all, wear morning dress with
light-colored ties. If gloves are worn, light-colored ones must be
selected. If there is a formal reception held in the evening, evening
dress and white or very pale gloves may then be worn. At an evening
wedding, evening dress is expected.
Gloves for Gentlemen.
Gentlemen wear gloves when walking, riding, or driving, at church and
all places of amusement, when making calls, and at receptions, balls
and evening parties. White or very pale tints for balls and weddings;
delicate tints for evening parties; any shade preferred for the other
occasions.
General Hints.
A silk hat should only be worn on appropriate occasions. Worn with a
rough business suit, or on a picnic or mountain ramble, it is in the
worst possible taste. It should appear only with frock coats, dress
coats and a fine quality of cloth.
Felt or straw hats should be worn with short coats or business suits.
The mourning weed, conventionally speaking, is worn only on a silk hat;
but there is no good reason why those who wish to wear mourning for
lost friends should always be in dress of ceremony so to do.
Diamonds should not be worn during business hours by men who are
obliged to stand behind counters or engage in any toil.
Business suits should never be worn to an evening party in the city,
though in small country gatherings they might be permissible.
Even various styles of outing suits are allowable in some of the
informal gatherings at summer resorts.
“Nice customs courtesy to great kings,” or to occasions.
Evening Suit for Boys.
This is black cloth with the rough surface that is seen in the material
used for grown-up, evening clothes. His trousers are the proper width
and show a slight but not too pronounced crease. His waistcoat is
cut low, and over it he wears an Eton jacket of black cloth that is
accentuated by the deep white linen collar which turns over it, and
which is attached, like his cuffs, to his immaculate white shirt.
He scorns all jewelry but a little watch and the white enamel buttons
that are in his shirt. His silk hat has a lower and a somewhat broader
crown than that made for an older gentleman.
A suit like this is worn by a boy from the time he is twelve until he
is eighteen, and then he is supposed to assume the regulation evening
dress worn by men.