Eight miles of agreeable march through the usual parklike country

brought us to the village of Fatiko, situated upon a splendid plateau of

rock upon elevated ground with beautiful granite cliffs, bordering a

level tableland of fine grass that would have formed a racecourse. The

high rocks were covered with natives, perched upon the outline like a

flock of ravens.

We halted to rest under some fine trees growing among large isolated

blocks of granite and gneiss. In a short time the natives assembled

around us: they were wonderfully friendly, and insisted upon a personal

introduction to both myself and Mrs. Baker. We were thus compelled to

hold a levee; not the passive and cold ceremony of Europe, but a most

active undertaking, as each native that was introduced performed the

salaam of his country, by seizing both my hands and raising my arms

three times to their full stretch above my head. After about one hundred

Fatikos had been thus gratified by our submission to this infliction,

and our arms had been subjected to at least three hundred stretches

each, I gave the order to saddle the oxen immediately, and we escaped a

further proof of Fatiko affection that was already preparing, as masses

of natives were streaming down the rocks hurrying to be introduced.

Notwithstanding the fatigue of the ceremony, I took a great fancy to

these poor people: they had prepared a quantity of merissa and a sheep

for our lunch, which they begged us to remain and enjoy before we

started; but the pumping action of half a village not yet gratified by a

presentation was too much; and, mounting our oxen, with aching shoulders

we bade adieu to Fatiko.

Descending the picturesque rocky hill of Fatiko, we entered upon a

totally distinct country. We had now before us an interminable sea of

prairies, covering to the horizon a series of gentle undulations

inclining from east to west. There were no trees except the dolape

palms; these were scattered at long intervals in the bright yellow

surface of high grass. The path was narrow, but good, and after an

hour's march we halted for the night on the banks of a deep and clear

stream, the Un-y-ame;--this stream is perennial, and receiving many

rivulets from Shooa, it forms a considerable torrent during the rainy

season, and joins the Nile in N. lat. 3 degrees 32 minutes at the limit

reached by Signor Miani, 1859, the first traveller who ever attained a

point so far south in Nile explorations from Egypt. There was no wood

for fires, neither dung of animals; thus without fuel we went supperless

to bed. Although the sun was painfully hot during the day, the nights

were so cold (about 55 degrees F) that we could hardly sleep.

For two days we marched through high dry grass, (about ten feet), when a

clear night allowed an observation, and the meridian altitude of Capella

gave latitude 2 degrees 45 minutes 37 seconds. In this interminable sea

of prairie it was interesting to watch our progress south. On the

following day our guide lost the road; a large herd of elephants had

obscured it by trampling hundreds of paths in all directions. The wind

was strong from the north, and I proposed to clear the country to the

south by firing the prairies. There were numerous deep swamps in the

bottoms between the undulations, and upon arrival at one of these green

dells we fired the grass on the opposite side. In a few minutes it

roared before us, and we enjoyed the grand sight of the boundless

prairies blazing like infernal regions, and rapidly clearing a path

south. Flocks of buzzards and the beautiful varieties of flycatchers

thronged to the dense smoke to prey upon the innumerable insects that

endeavoured to escape from the approaching fire.

In about an hour we marched over the black and smoking ground, every now

and then meeting dead stumps of palm trees blazing; until we at length

reached another swamp. There the fire had terminated in its course

south, being stopped by the high green reeds, and it was raging to the

east and west. Again the tedious operation had to be performed, and the

grass was fired in many places on the opposite side of the swamp, while

we waited until the cleared way was sufficiently cool to allow the

march. We were perfectly black, as the wind brought showers of ashes

that fell like snow, but turned us into Ethiopians. I had led the way on

foot from the hour we left Fatiko, as, the country being uninhabited for

five days' march between that place and Kamrasi's, the men had more

faith in my steering by the compass than they had in the native guide. I

felt sure that we were being deceived, and that the woman Bacheeta had

directed the guide to take us to Rionga's. Accordingly that night, when

Canopus was in the meridian, I asked our conductor to point by a star

the direction of Karuma Falls. He immediately pointed to Canopus, which

I knew by Speke's map should be the direction of Rionga's islands, and I

charged him with the deceit. He appeared very much astonished, and asked

me "why I wanted a guide if I knew the way?" confessing that Karuma

Falls were "a little to the east of the star." I thanked Speke and Grant

at that moment, and upon many other occasions, for the map they had so

generously given me! It has been my greatest satisfaction to have

completed their great discovery, and to bear testimony to the

correctness of their map and general observations.

The march was exceedingly fatiguing: there was a swamp at least every

half hour during the day, at each of which we had the greatest

difficulty in driving the oxen, who were above the girths in mud. One

swamp was so deep that we had to carry the luggage piecemeal on an

angarep by about twelve men, and my wife being subjected to the same

operation was too heavy, and the people returned with her as

impracticable. I accordingly volunteered for service, and carried her on

my back; but when in the middle of the swamp, the tenacious bottom gave

way, and I sank, and remained immoveably fixed, while she floundered

froglike in the muddy water. I was extricated by the united efforts of

several men, and she was landed by being dragged through the swamp. We

marched for upwards of ten hours per day, so great were the delays in

crossing the morasses and in clearing off the grass jungle by burning.

On the fourth day we left the prairies, and entered a noble forest; this

was also so choked with high grass that it was impossible to proceed

without burning the country in advance. There had been no semblance of a

path for some time; and the only signs of game that we had seen were the

tracks of elephants and a large herd of buffaloes, the fire having

scared all wild animals from the neighbourhood. An attack of fever

seized me suddenly, and I was obliged to lie down for four or five hours

under a tree until the fit had passed away, when, weak and good for

nothing, I again mounted my ox and rode on. On the 22d January, from an

elevated position in the forest at sunrise, we saw a cloud of fog

hanging in a distant valley, which betokened the presence of the

Somerset river. The guide assured us that we should reach the river that

day. I extract the note from my journal on that occasion:

"Marched, 6h. 20m., reaching the Somerset river, or Victoria White Nile.

I never made so tedious a journey, owing to the delays of grass,

streams, and deep swamps, but since we gained the forest these obstacles

were not so numerous. Many tracks of elephants, rhinoceros, and

buffaloes; but we saw nothing. Halted about eighty feet above the river;

altitude above sea level, by observation, 3,864 ft. I went to the river

to see if the other side was inhabited; saw two villages on an island;

the natives came across in a canoe, bringing the BROTHER OF RIONGA with

them; the guide, as I had feared during the journey, has deceived us,

and taken us direct to Rionga's country. On the north side the river all

is uninhabited forest, full of buffalo and elephant pitfalls, into which

three of our cattle have already fallen, including my beautiful riding

ox, which is thus so sprained as to be rendered useless. "The natives at

first supposed we were Mahommed Wat-el-Mek's people, but finding their

mistake they would give no information, merely saying that the lake was

not far from here. They said 'they were friends of Mahommed's people who

attacked Kamrasi, and Rionga being his enemy became their ally.' I must

now be very careful, lest the news should reach Kamrasi that I am in

Rionga's country, which would cut off all chance of travelling in

Unyoro. "The slave woman, Bacheeta, secretly instructed the guide to

lead us to Rionga instead of to Kamrasi, precisely as I had suspected.

The Karuma Falls are a day's march east of this, at which point we must

cross the river. Obtained a clear observation of Capella, meridian

altitude showing latitude 2 degrees 18 minutes N."

We could get no supplies from Rionga's people, who returned to their

island after their conference with Bacheeta, promising to send us some

plantains and a basket of flour; but upon gaining their secure retreat

they shouted, "that we might go to Kamrasi if we liked, but that we

should receive no assistance from them." Early in the morning we started

for Karuma. This part of the forest was perfectly open, as the grass had

been burnt by the natives about three weeks ago, and the young shoots of

the vines were appearing from the scorched roots; among other plants was

an abundance of the prickly asparagus, of which I collected a basketful.

Nothing could exceed the beauty of the march. Our course through the

noble forest was parallel with the river, that roared beneath us on our

right in a succession of rapids and falls between high cliffs covered

with groves of bananas and varieties of palms, including the graceful

wild date---the certain sign of either marsh or river. The Victoria Nile

or Somerset river was about 150 yards wide; the cliffs on the south side

were higher than those upon the north, being about 150 feet above the

river. These heights were thronged with natives, who had collected from

the numerous villages that ornamented the cliffs situated among groves

of plantains; they were armed with spears and shields; the population

ran parallel to our line of march, shouting and gesticulating as though

daring us to cross the river.

After a most enjoyable march through the exciting scene of the glorious

river crashing over innumerable falls--and in many places ornamented

with rocky islands, upon which were villages and plantain groves--we at

length approached the Karuma Falls, close to the village of Atada above

the ferry. The heights were crowded with natives, and a canoe was sent

across to within parleying distance of our side, as the roar of the

rapids prevented our voices from being heard except at a short distance.

Bacheeta now explained, that SPEKE'S BROTHER had arrived from his

country to pay Kamrasi a visit, and had brought him valuable presents."

"Why has he brought so many men with him?" inquired the people from the

canoe.

"There are so many presents for the M'Kamma (King) that he has many men

to carry them," shouted Bacheeta.

"Let us look at him!" cried the headman in the boat: having prepared for

the introduction by changing my clothes in a grove of plantains for my

dressing room, and altering my costume to a tweed suit, something

similar to that worn by Speke, I climbed up a high and almost

perpendicular rock that formed a natural pinnacle on the face of the

cliff, and, waving my cap to the crowd on the opposite side, I looked

almost as imposing as Nelson in Trafalgar Square.

I instructed Bacheeta, who climbed up the giddy height after me, to

shout to the people that an English lady, my wife, had also arrived, and

that we wished immediately to be presented to the king and his family,

as we had come to thank him for his kind treatment of Speke and Grant,

who had arrived safe in their own county. Upon this being explained and

repeated several times, the canoe approached the shore.

I ordered all our people to retire, and to conceal themselves among the

plantains, that the natives might not be startled by so imposing a

force, while Mrs. Baker and I advanced alone to meet Kamrasi's people,

who were men of some importance. Upon landing through the high reeds,

they immediately recognized the similarity of my beard and general

complexion to that of Speke; and their welcome was at once displayed by

the most extravagant dancing and gesticulating with lances and shields,

as though intending to attack, rushing at me with the points of their

lances thrust close to my face, and shouting and singing in great

excitement.

I made each of them a present of a bead necklace, and explained to them

my wish that there should be no delay in my presentation to Kamrasi, as

Speke had complained that he bad been kept waiting fifteen days before

the king had condescended to see him; that, if this occurred, no

Englishman would ever visit him, as such a reception would be considered

an insult. The headman replied that he felt sure I was not an impostor;

but that very shortly after the departure of Speke and Grant in the

previous year, a number of people had arrived in their name, introducing

themselves as their greatest friends: they had been ferried across the

river, and well received by Kamrasi's orders, and had been presented

with ivory, slaves, and leopard skins, as tokens of friendship; but they

had departed, and suddenly returned with Rionga's people, and had

attacked the village in which they had been so well received; and upon

the country being assembled to resist them, about three hundred of

Kamrasi's men had been killed in the fight. The king had therefore given

orders that, upon pain of death, no stranger should cross the river. He

continued: that when they saw our people marching along the bank of the

river, they imagined them to be the same party that had attacked them

formerly, and they were prepared to resist them, and had sent on a

messenger to Kamrasi, who was three days' march from Karuma, at his

capital M'rooli; until they received a reply, it would be impossible to

allow us to enter the country. He promised to despatch another messenger

immediately to inform the king who we were, but that we must certainly

wait until his return. I explained that we had nothing to eat, and that

it would be very inconvenient to remain in such a spot; that I

considered the suspicion displayed was exceedingly unfair, as they must

see that my wife and I were white people like Speke and Grant, whereas

those who had deceived them were of a totally different race, all being

either black or brown.

I told him that it did not much matter; that I had very beautiful

presents intended for Kamrasi; but that another great king would be only

too glad to accept them, without throwing obstacles in my way. I should

accordingly return with my presents.

At the same time I ordered a handsome Persian carpet, about fifteen feet

square, to be displayed as one of the presents intended for the king.

The gorgeous colours, as the carpet was unfolded, produced a general

exclamation before the effect of astonishment wore off, I had a basket

unpacked, and displayed upon a cloth a heap of superb necklaces, that we

had prepared while at Obbo, of the choicest beads, many as large as

marbles, and glittering with every colour of the rainbow. The garden of

jewels of Aladdin's wonderful lamp could not have produced more enticing

fruit. Beads were extremely rare in Kamrasi's land; the few that existed

had arrived from Zanzibar, and all that I exhibited were entirely new

varieties. I explained that I had many other presents, but that it was

not necessary to unpack them, as we were about to return with them to

visit another king, who lived some days' journey distant. "Don't go;

don't go away," said the headman and his companions. "Kamrasi will--."

Here an unmistakeable pantomimic action explained their meaning better

than words; throwing their heads well back, they sawed across their

throats with their forefingers, making horrible grimaces, indicative of

the cutting of throats. I could not resist laughing at the terror that

my threat of returning with the presents had created, they explained,

that Kamrasi would not only kill them, but would destroy the entire

village of Atada should we return without visiting him, but that he

would perhaps punish them in precisely the same manner should they ferry

us across without special orders. "Please yourselves," I replied; "if my

party is not ferried across by the time the sum reaches that spot on the

heavens (pointing to the position it would occupy at about 3 P.M.), I

shall return." In a state of great excitement they promised to hold a

conference on the other side, and to see what arrangements could be

made. They returned to Atada, leaving the whole party, including

Ibrahim, exceedingly disconcerted--having nothing to eat, an impassable

river before them, and five days' march of uninhabited wilderness in

their rear.

Karuma Falls were about three hundred yards to our left as we faced

Atada; they were very insignificant, not exceeding five feet in height,

but curiously regular, as a ridge of rock over which they fell extended

like a wall across the river. The falls were exactly at the bend of the

river, which, from that point, turned suddenly to the west. The whole

day passed in shouting and gesticulating our peaceful intentions to the

crowd assembled on the heights on the opposite side of the river, but

the boat did not return until long after the time appointed; even then

the natives would only approach sufficiently near to be heard, but

nothing would induce them to land. They explained, that there was a

division of opinion among the people on the other side; some were in

favour of receiving us, but the greater number were of opinion that we

intended hostilities; therefore we must wait until orders could be sent

from the king.

To assure the people of our peaceful intentions, I begged them to take

Mrs. Baker and myself ALONE, and to leave the armed party on this side

of the river until a reply should be received from Kamrasi. At this

suggestion the boat immediately returned to the other side.

The day passed away, and as the sun set we perceived the canoe again

paddling across the river; this time it approached direct, and the same

people landed that had received the necklaces in the morning. They said

that they had held a conference with the headman, and that they had

agreed to receive my wife and myself, but no other person. I replied,

that my servants must accompany us, as we were quite as great personages

as Kamrasi, and could not possibly travel without attendants. To this

they demurred; therefore I dropped the subject, and proposed to load the

canoe with all the presents intended for Kamrasi. There was no objection

to this, and I ordered Richarn, Saat, and Ibrahim to get into the canoe

to stow away the luggage as it should be handed to them, but on no

account to leave the boat. I had already prepared everything in

readiness; and a bundle of rifles tied up in a large blanket, and 500

rounds of ball cartridge, were unconsciously received on board as

PRESENTS. I had instructed Ibrahim to accompany us as my servant, as he

was better than most of the men in the event of a row; and I had given

orders, that in case of a preconcerted signal being given, the whole

force should swim the river, supporting themselves and guns upon bundles

of papyrus rush.

The men thought us perfectly mad, and declared that we should be

murdered immediately when on the other side; however, they prepared for

crossing the river in case of treachery.

At the last moment, when the boat was about to leave the shore, two of

the best men jumped in with their guns; however, the natives positively

refused to start; therefore, to avoid suspicion, I ordered them to

retire, but I left word that on the morrow I would send the canoe across

with supplies, and that one or two men should endeavour to accompany the

boat to our side on every trip.

It was quite dark when we started. The canoe was formed of a large

hollow tree, capable of holding twenty people, and the natives paddled

us across the rapid current just below the falls. A large fire was

blazing upon the opposite shore, on a level with the river, to guide us

to the landing place. Gliding through a narrow passage in the reeds, we

touched the shore and landed upon a slippery rock, close to the fire,

amidst a crowd of people, who immediately struck up a deafening welcome

with horns and flageolets, and marched us up the steep face of the rocky

cliff through a dark grove of bananas. Torches led the way, followed by

a long file of spearmen; then came the noisy band and ourselves--I

towing my wife up the precipitous path, while my few attendants followed

behind with a number of natives who had volunteered to carry the

luggage.

On arrival at the top of the cliff, we were about 180 feet above the

river, and after a walk of about a quarter of a mile, we were

triumphantly led into the heart of the village, and halted in a small

courtyard in front of the headman's residence.

Keedja waited to receive us by a blazing fire. Not having had anything

to eat, we were uncommonly hungry, and to our great delight a basketful

of ripe plantains was presented to us; these were the first that I had

seen for many years. A gourd bottle of plantain wine was offered, and

immediately emptied; it resembled extremely poor cider. We were now

surrounded by a mass of natives, no longer the naked savages to whom we

had been accustomed, but well-dressed men, wearing robes of bark cloth,

arranged in various fashions, generally like the Arab "tope," or the

Roman toga. Several of the headmen now explained to us the atrocious

treachery of Debono's men, who had been welcomed as friends of Speke and

Grant, but who had repaid the hospitality by plundering and massacreing

their hosts. I assured them that no one would be more wroth than Speke

when I should make him aware of the manner in which his name had been

used, and that I should make a point of reporting the circumstance to

the British Government. At the same time I advised them not to trust any

but white people, should others arrive in my name, or in those of Speke

and Grant. I upheld their character as that of Englishmen, and I begged

them to state "if ever they had deceived them?" They replied, that

"there could not be better men." I answered, "You MUST trust me, as I

trust entirely in you, and have placed myself in your hands; but if you

have ever had cause to mistrust a white man, kill me at once!--either

kill me, or trust in me; but let there be no suspicions."

They seemed much pleased with the conversation, and a man stepped

forward and showed me a small string of blue beads that Speke had given

him for ferrying him across the river. This little souvenir of my old

friend was most interesting; after a year's wandering and many

difficulties, this was the first time that I had actually come upon his

track. Many people told me that they had known Speke and Grant; the

former bore the name of "Mollegge" (the bearded one), while Grant had

been named "Masanga" (the elephant's tusk), owing to his height. The

latter had been wounded at Lucknow during the Indian mutiny, and I spoke

to the people of the loss of his finger; this crowned my success, as

they knew without doubt that I had seen him. It was late, therefore I

begged the crowd to depart, but to send a messenger the first thing in

the morning to inform Kamrasi who we were, and to beg him to permit us

to visit him without loss of time.

A bundle of straw was laid on the ground for Mrs. Baker and myself, and,

in lieu of other beds, the ground was our resting place. It was bitterly

cold that night, as the guns were packed up in the large blanket, and,

not wishing to expose them, we were contented with a Scotch plaid each.

Ibrahim, Saat, and Richarn watched by turns. On the following morning an

immense crowd of native thronged to see us. There was a very beautiful

tree about a hundred yards from the village, capable of shading upwards

of a thousand men, and I proposed that we should sit beneath this

protection and hold a conference. The headman of the village gave us a

large hut with a grand doorway of about seven feet high, of which my

wife took possession, while I joined the crowd at the tree. There were

about six hundred men seated respectfully on the ground around me, while

I sat with my back to the huge knotty trunk, with Ibrahim and Richarn at

a few paces distant.

The subject of conversation was merely a repetition that of the

preceding night, with the simple addition some questions respecting the

lake. Not a man would give the slightest information; the only reply,

upon my forcing the question, was the pantomime already described, by

passing the forefinger across the throat, and exclaiming "Kamrasi!" The

entire population was tongue-locked.

I tried the children; to no purpose, they were all dumb. White-headed

old men I questioned as to the distance of the lake from this point:

they replied, "We are children, ask the old people who know the

country." Never was freemasonry more secret than the land of Unyoro. It

was useless to persevere. I therefore changed the subject by saying that

our people were starving on the other side, and that provisions must be

sent immediately. In all savage countries the most trifling demand

requires much talking. They said that provisions were scarce, and that

until Kamrasi should give the order, they could give no supplies.

Understanding most thoroughly the natural instincts of the natives, I

told them that I must send the canoe across to fetch three oxen that I

wished to slaughter. The bait took at once, and several men ran for the

canoe, and we sent one of our black women across with a message to the

people that three men, with their guns and ammunition, were to accompany

the canoe and guide three oxen across by swimming them with ropes tied

to their horns. These were the riding oxen of some of the men that it

was necessary to slaughter, to exchange the flesh for flour and other

supplies.

Hardly had the few boatmen departed, than some one shouted suddenly, and

the entire crowd sprang to their feet and rushed towards the hut where I

had left Mrs. Baker. For the moment I thought that the hut was on fire,

and I joined the crowd and arrived at the doorway, where I found a

tremendous press to see some extraordinary sight. Everyone was squeezing

for the best place; and, driving them on one side, I found the wonder

that had excited their curiosity. The hut being very dark, my wife had

employed her solitude during my conference with the natives in dressing

her hair at the doorway, which, being very long and blonde, was suddenly

noticed by some natives--a shout was given, the rush described had taken

place, and the hut was literally mobbed by the crowd of savages eager to

see the extraordinary novelty. The Gorilla would not make a greater stir

in London streets than we appeared to create at Atada.

The oxen shortly arrived; one was immediately killed, and the flesh

divided into numerous small portions arranged upon the hide.

Blonde hair and white people immediately lost their attractions, and the

crowd turned their attention to beef--we gave them to understand that

we required flour, beans, and sweet potatoes in exchange.

The market soon went briskly, and whole rows of girls and women arrived,

bringing baskets filled with the desired provisions. The women were

neatly dressed in short petticoats with a double skirt-many exposed the

bosom, while others wore a piece of bark cloth arranged as a plaid

across the chest and shoulders. This cloth is the produce of a species

of fig tree, the bark of which is stripped off in large pieces and then

soaked in water and beaten with a mallet: in appearance it much

resembles corduroy, and is the colour of tanned leather; the finer

qualities are peculiarly soft to the touch, as though of woven cotton.

Every garden is full of this species of tree, as their cultivation is

necessary for the supply of clothing; when a man takes a wife he plants

a certain number of trees, that are to be the tailors of the expected

family.

The market being closed, the canoe was laden with provisions, and sent

across to our hungry people on the other side the river.

The difference between the Unyoro people and the tribes we had hitherto

seen was most striking. On the north side of the river the natives were

either stark naked, or wore a mere apology for clothing in the shape of

a skin slung across their shoulders: the river appeared to be the limit

of utter savagedom, and the people of Unyoro considered the indecency of

nakedness precisely in the same light as among Europeans.

The northern district of Unyoro at Karuma is called Chopi, the language

being the same as the Madi, and different to the southern and central

portions of the kingdom. The people are distinct in their type, but they

have the woolly hair of negroes, like all other tribes of the White

Nile.

By astronomical observation I determined the latitude of Atada at Karuma

Falls, 2 degrees 15 minutes; and by Casella's thermometer, the altitude

of the river level above the sea 3,996 feet.

After the disgusting naked tribes that we had been travelling amongst

for more than twelve months, it was a delightful change to find

ourselves in comparative civilization: this was evinced not only in the

decency of clothing, but also in the manufactures of the country. The

blacksmiths were exceedingly clever, and used iron hammers instead of

stone; they drew fine wire from the thick copper and brass wire that

they received from Zanzibar; their bellows were the same as those used

by the more savage tribes--but the greatest proof of their superior

civilization was exhibited in their pottery.

Nearly all savages have some idea of earthenware; but the scale of

advancement of a country between savagedom and civilization may

generally be determined by the example of its pottery. The Chinese, who

were as civilized as they are at the present day at a period when the

English were barbarians, were ever celebrated for the manufacture of

porcelain, and the difference between savages and civilized countries is

always thus exemplified; the savage makes earthenware, but the civilized

make porcelain--thus the gradations from the rudest earthenware will

mark the improvement in the scale of civilization. The prime utensil of

the African savage is the gourd; the shell of which is the bowl

presented to him by nature as the first idea from which he is to model.

Nature, adapting herself to the requirements of animals and man, appears

in these savage countries to yield abundantly much that savage man can

want. Gourds with exceedingly strong shells not only grow wild, which if

divided in halves afford bowls, but great and quaint varieties form

natural bottles of all sizes, from the tiny phial to the demijohn

containing five gallons. The most savage tribes content themselves with

the productions of nature, confining their manufacture to a coarse and

half-baked jar for carrying water; but the semi-savage, like those of

Unyoro, affords an example of the first step towards manufacturing art,

by the fact of COPYING FROM NATURE: the utter savage makes use of

nature--the gourd is his utensil; and the more advanced natives of

Unyoro adopt it as the model for their pottery. They make a fine quality

of jet black earthenware, producing excellent tobacco-pipes most finely

worked in imitation of the small egg-shaped gourd; of the same

earthenware they make extremely pretty bowls, and also bottles copied

from the varieties of the bottle gourds: thus, in this humble art, we

see the first effort of the human mind in manufactures, in taking nature

for a model; precisely as the beautiful Corinthian capital originated in

a design from a basket of flowers.

A few extracts from my journal will describe the delay at Atada:--

"JAN. 26th, 1864.--The huts are very large, about 20 feet in diameter,

made entirely of reeds and straw, and very lofty, looking in the

interior like huge inverted baskets, beehive shaped, very different to

the dog-kennels of the more northern tribes. We received a message today

that we were not to expect Kamrasi, as 'great men were never in a hurry

to pay visits.' None of the principal chiefs have yet appeared. Kidgwiga

is expected today; but people are flocking in from the country to see

the white lady. It is very trying to the patience to wait here until it

pleases these almighty niggers to permit our people to cross the river."

"JAN. 27th.--Time passing fruitlessly while every day is valuable. The

rains will, I fear, commence before my work is completed; and the Asua

river, if flooded, will cut off my return to Gondokoro. In this district

there is a large population and extensive cultivation. There are many

trees resembling the Vacoua of Mauritius, but the leaves are of a

different texture, producing a species of flax. Every day there is a

report that the headman, sent by Kamrasi, is on the road; but I see no

signs of him."

"JAN. 28th.--Reports brought that Kamrasi has sent his headman with a

large force, including some of Speke's deserters. They are to inspect

me, and report whether I am really a white man and an Englishman. If so,

I believe we are to proceed; if not, I suppose we are to be

exterminated. Lest there should be any mistake I have taken all

necessary precautions; but, having only eight men on this side the

river, I shall be certain to lose my baggage in the event of a

disturbance, as no one could transport it to the canoe."

"JAN. 29th.--Plantains, sweet potatoes, and eggs supplied in great

quantities. The natives are much amused at our trying the eggs in water

before purchase. Plantains, three for one small bead. The headman is

expected today. A polite message arrived last night from Kamrasi

inviting us to his capital, and apologizing for being unable to come in

person. This morning the force, sent by Kamrasi, is reported to be

within an hour's march of Atada. "In midday the headman arrived with a

great number of men, accompanied by three of Speke's deserters, one of

whom has been created a chief by Kamrasi, and presented with two wives.

"I received them standing; and after thorough inspection I was

pronounced to be 'Speke's own brother,' and all were satisfied. However,

the business was not yet over: plenty of talk, and another delay of four

days, was declared necessary until the king should reply to the

satisfactory message about to be sent. Losing all patience, I stormed,

declaring Kamrasi to be mere dust; while a white man was a king in

comparison. I ordered all my luggage to be conveyed immediately to the

canoe, and declared that I would return immediately to my own country;

that I did not wish to see any one so utterly devoid of manners as

Kamrasi, and that no other white man would ever visit his kingdom.

"The effect was magical! I rose hastily to depart. The chiefs implored,

declaring that Kamrasi would kill them all if I retreated: to prevent

which misfortune they secretly instructed the canoe to be removed. I was

in a great rage; and about 400 natives, who were present, scattered in

all quarters, thinking that there would be a serious quarrel. I told the

chiefs that nothing should stop me, and that I would seize the canoe by

force unless my whole party should be brought over from the opposite

side that instant. This was agreed upon. One of Ibrahim's men exchanged

and drank blood from the arm of Speke's deserter, who was Kamrasi's

representative; and peace thus firmly established, several canoes were

at once employed, and sixty of our men were brought across the river

before sunset. The natives had nevertheless taken the precaution to send

all their women away from the village."

"JAN. 30th.--This morning all remaining men and baggage were brought

across the river, and supplies were brought in large quantities for

sale. We are to march tomorrow direct to Kamrasi's capital; they say he

will give me a guide to the lake.

"The natives of this country are particularly neat in all they do; they

never bring anything to sell unless carefully packed in the neatest

parcels, generally formed of the bark of the plantain, and sometimes of

the inner portions of reeds stripped into snow-white stalks, which are

bound round the parcels with the utmost care. Should the plantain cider,

'maroua,' be brought in a jar, the mouth is neatly covered with a

fringe-like mat of these clean white rushes split into shreds. Not even

tobacco is brought for sale unless most carefully packed. During a

journey, a pretty, bottle-shaped, long-necked gourd is carried with a

store of plantain cider: the mouth of the bottle is stopped with a

bundle of the white rush shreds, through which a reed is inserted that

reaches to the bottom: thus the drink can be sucked up during the march

without the necessity of halting; nor is it possible to spill it by the

movement of walking.

"The natives prepare the skins of goats very beautifully, making them as

soft as chamois leather; these they cut into squares, and sew together

as neatly as would be effected by a European tailor, converting them

into mantles which are prized far more highly than bark cloth, on

account of their durability: they manufacture their own needles, not by

boring the eye, but by sharpening the end into a fine point and turning

it over, the extremity being hammered into a small cut in the body of

the needle to prevent it from catching.

"Clothes of all kinds are in great demand here, and would be accepted to

any amount in exchange for ivory. Beads are extremely valuable, and

would purchase ivory in large quantities, but the country would, in a

few years, become overstocked. Clothes being perishable articles would

always be in demand to supply those worn out; but beads, being

imperishable, very soon glut the market. Here is, as I had always

anticipated, an opportunity for commencing legitimate trade."

"JAN. 31st.--Throngs of natives arrived to carry our luggage GRATIS by

the king's orders. Started at 7 A.M. and marched ten miles and a half

parallel with the Nile, south; the country thickly populated, and much

cultivated with sesame, sweet potatoes, beans, tullaboon, dhurra, Indian

corn, and plantains.

"The native porters relieved each other at every village, fresh men

being always in readiness on the road. The river is here on a level with

the country, having no high banks; thus there is a great fall from

Karuma towards the west. Halted in a grove of plantains near a village.

The plantains of this country are much higher than those of Ceylon, and

the stems are black, rising to 25 or 30 feet. The chief of the district

came to meet us, and insisted upon our remaining at his village today

and tomorrow to 'eat and drink,' or Kamrasi would kill him; thus we are

delayed when time is precious. The chief's name is 'Matta-Goomi.' There

is now no secret about the lake. Both he and all the natives say that

the Luta N'zige lake is larger than the Victoria N'yanza, and that both

lakes are fed by rivers from the great mountain Bartooma. Is that

mountain the M'fumbiro of Speke? the difference of name being local.

According to the position of the mountain pointed out by the chief, it

bears from this spot S. 45 degrees W. Latitude of this place by meridian

altitude of Capella, 2 degrees 5 minutes 32 seconds.

"F. (my wife) taken seriously ill with bilious fever."

"FEB. 1st.--F. dreadfully ill; all the natives have turned out of their

villages, leaving their huts and gardens at our disposal. This is the

custom of the country should the king give orders that a visitor is to

be conducted through his dominions.

"The natives of Unyoro have a very superior implement to the molote used

among the northern tribes; it is an extremely powerful hoe, fitted upon

a handle, similar to those used on the sugar estates in the West Indies,

but the blade is heart-shaped: with these they cultivate the ground very

deep for their beds of sweet potatoes. The temperature during the day

ranges from 80 degrees to 84 degrees, and at night it is cold, 56

degrees to 58 degrees Fahr. It is very unhealthy, owing to the proximity

of the river."

"FEB. 2d.--Marched five miles. F. carried in a litter, very ill. I fell

ill likewise. Halted."

"FEB. 3d.--F. very ill. Carried her four miles and halted."

"FEB. 4th.--F. most seriously ill. Started at 7:30 A.M., she being

carried in a litter; but I also fell ill upon the road, and having been

held on my ox by two men for some time, I at length fell in their arms,

and was laid under a tree for about five hours; getting better, I rode

for two hours, course south. Mountains in view to south and southeast,

about ten miles distant. The country, forest interspersed with villages:

the Somerset generally parallel to the route. There are no tamarinds in

this neighbourhood, nor any other acid fruit; thus one is sorely pressed

in the hours of fever. One of the black women servants, Fadeela, is

dying of fever."

"FEB. 5th.--F. (Mrs. Baker) so ill, that even the litter is too much

for her. Heaven help us in this country! The altitude of the river level

above the sea at this point is 4,056 feet."

"Feb. 6th.--F. slightly better. Started at 7 A.M. The country the same

as usual. Halted at a village after a short march of three miles and a

half. Here we are detained for a day while a message is sent to Kamrasi.

Tomorrow, I believe, we are to arrive at the capital of the tyrant. He

sent me a message today, that the houses he had prepared for me had been

destroyed by fire, and to beg me to wait until he should have completed

others. The truth is, he is afraid of our large party, and he delays us

in every manner possible, in order to receive daily reports of our

behaviour on the road. Latitude by observation at this point, 1 degree

50 minutes 47 seconds N."

"FEB. 7th.--Detained here for a day. I never saw natives so filthy in

their dwellings as the people of Unyoro. Goats and fowls share the but

with the owner, which, being littered down with straw, is a mere

cattle-shed, redolent of man and beast. The natives sleep upon a mass of

straw, upon a raised platform, this at night being covered with a

dressed skin. Yesterday the natives brought coffee in small quantities

to sell. They have no idea of using it as a drink, but simply chew it

raw as a stimulant. It is a small and finely-shaped grain, with a good

flavour. It is brought from the country of Utumbi, about a degree south

of this spot."

"FEB. 8th.--Marched eight miles due south. The river makes a long bend

to E.N.E., and this morning's march formed the chord of the arc. Halted;

again delayed for the day, as we are not far from the capital, and a

messenger must be sent to the king for instructions before we proceed. I

never saw such abject cowardice as the redoubted Kamrasi exhibits.

Debono's vakeel having made a razzia upon his frontier has so cowed him,

that he has now left his residence, and retreated to the other side of a

river, from which point he sends false messages to delay our advance as

much as possible. There is a total absence of dignity in his behaviour;

no great man is sent to parley, but the king receives contradictory

reports from the many-tongued natives that have utterly perplexed him.

He is told by some that we are the same people that came with Ras-Galla

(Debono's captain), and he has neither the courage to repel or to

receive us. Our force of 112 armed men could eat the country in the

event of a fight, provided that a large supply of ammunition were at

hand. The present store is sixty rounds for each man, which would not be

sufficient."

"FEB. 9th.--After endless discussions and repeated messages exchanged

with the king, he at length sent word that I was to come ALONE. To this

I objected; and, upon my starting with my men, the guide refused to

proceed. I at once turned back, and told the chief (our guide) that I no

longer wished to see Kamrasi, who must be a mere fool, and I should

return to my country. This created a great stir, and messengers were at

once despatched to the king, who returned an answer that I might bring

all my men, but that only five of the Turks could be allowed with

Ibrahim. The woman Bacheeta had told the natives that we were separate

parties.

"A severe attack of fever prevented me from starting. This terrible

complaint worries me sadly, as I have no quinine."

"FEB. 10th.--The woman Fadeela died of fever. I am rather better, and

the chief is already here to escort us to Kamrasi. After a quick march

of three hours through immense woods, we reached the capital--a large

village of grass huts, situated on a barren slope. We were ferried

across a river in large canoes, capable of carrying fifty men, but

formed of a single tree upwards of four feet wide. Kamrasi was reported

to be in his residence on the opposite side; but, upon our arrival at

the south bank, we found ourselves thoroughly deceived. We were upon a

miserable flat, level with the river, and in the wet season forming a

marsh at the junction with the Kafoor river with the Somerset. The

latter river bounded the flat on the east, very wide and sluggish, and

much overgrown with papyrus and lotus. The river we had just crossed was

the Kafoor; it was perfectly dead water, and about eighty yards wide,

including the beds of papyrus on either side. We were shown some filthy

huts that were to form our camp. The spot was swarming with mosquitoes,

and we had nothing to eat except a few fowls that I had brought with me.

Kamrasi was on the OTHER SIDE OF THE RIVER: they had cunningly separated

us from him, and had returned with the canoes. Thus we were prisoners

upon the swamp. This was our welcome from the King of Unyoro! I now

heard that Speke and Grant had been lodged in this same spot."

"FEB. 10th.--Ibrahim was extremely nervous, as were also my men; they

declared that treachery was intended, as the boats had been withdrawn,

and they proposed that we should swim the river and march back to our

main party, who had been left three hours in the rear. I was ill with

fever, also my wife, and the unwholesome air of the marsh aggravated the

disease. Our luggage had been left at our last station, as this was a

condition stipulated by Kamrasi: thus we had to sleep upon the damp

ground of the marsh in the filthy hut, as the heavy dew at night

necessitated shelter. With great difficulty I accompanied Ibrahim and a

few men to the bank of the river where we had landed yesterday, and,

climbing upon a white ant hill to obtain a view over the high reeds, I

scanned the village with a telescope. The scene was rather exciting;

crowds of people were rushing about in all directions, and gathering

from all quarters towards the river: the slope from the river to the

town M'rooli was black with natives, and I saw about a dozen large

canoes preparing to transport them to our side. I returned from my

elevated observatory to Ibrahim, who, on the low ground only a few yards

distant, could not see the opposite side of the river owing to the high

grass and reeds. Without saying more, I merely begged him to mount upon

the ant hill and look towards M'rooli. Hardly had he cast a glance at

the scene described, than he jumped down from his stand, and cried,

'They are going to attack us!' 'Let us retreat to the camp and prepare

for a fight!' 'Let us fire at them from here as they cross in the

canoes,' cried others; 'the buckshot will clear them off when packed in

the boats.' This my panic-stricken followers would have done, had I not

been present.

"'Fools!' I said, 'do you not see that the natives have no SHIELDS with

them, but merely lances?--would they commence an attack without their

shields? Kamrasi is coming in state to visit us.' This idea was by no

means accepted by my people, and we reached our little camp, and for the

sake of precaution we stationed the men in positions behind a hedge of

thorns. Ibrahim had managed to bring twelve picked men instead of five

as stipulated; thus we were a party of twenty-four. I was of very little

use, as the fever was so strong upon me that I lay helpless on the

ground."

In a short time the canoes arrived, and for about an hour they were

employed in crossing and recrossing, and landing great numbers of men,

until they at length advanced and took possession of some huts about 200

yards from our camp. They now hallooed out that Kamrasi had arrived! and

seeing some oxen with the party, I felt sure they had no evil

intentions. I ordered my men to carry me in their arms to the king, and

to accompany me with the presents, as I was determined to have a

personal interview, although only fit for a hospital.

Upon my approach, the crowd gave way, and I was shortly laid on a mat at

the king's feet. He was a fine-looking man, but with a peculiar

expression of countenance, owing to his extremely prominent eyes; he was

about six feet high, beautifully clean, and was dressed in a long robe

of bark-cloth most gracefully folded. The nails of his hands and feet

were carefully attended, and his complexion was about as dark a brown as

that of an Abyssinian. He sat upon a copper stool placed upon a carpet

of leopard skins, and he was surrounded by about ten of his principal

chiefs.

Our interpreter, Bacheeta, now informed him who I was, and what were my

intentions. He said that he was sorry I had been so long on the road,

but that he had been obliged to be cautious, having been deceived by

Debono's people. I replied, that I was an Englishman, a friend of Speke

and Grant--that they had described the reception they had met with from

him, and that I had come to thank him, and to offer him a few presents

in return for his kindness, and to request him to give me a guide to the

Lake Luta N'zige. He laughed at the name and repeated it several times

with his chiefs,--he then said, it was not LUTA, but M-WOOTAN

N'zige--but that it was SIX MONTHS' journey from M'rooli, and that in my

weak condition I could not possibly reach it; that I should die upon the

road, and that the king of my country would perhaps imagine that I had

been murdered, and might invade his territory. I replied, that I was

weak with the toil of years in the hot countries of Africa, but that I

was in search of the great lake, and should not return until I had

succeeded; that I had no king, but a powerful Queen who watched over all

her subjects, and that no Englishman could be murdered with impunity;

therefore he should send me to the lake without delay, and there would

be the lesser chance of my dying in his country.

I explained that the river Nile flowed for a distance of two years'

journey through wonderful countries, and reached the sea, from which

many valuable articles would be sent to him in exchange for ivory, could

I only discover the great lake. As a proof of this, I had brought him a

few curiosities that I trusted he would accept, and I regretted that the

impossibility of procuring porters had necessitated the abandonment of

others that had been intended for him.

I ordered the men to unpack the Persian carpet, which was spread upon

the ground before him. I then gave him an Abbia (large white Cashmere

mantle), a red silk netted sash, a pair of scarlet Turkish shoes,

several pairs of socks, a double-barrelled gun and ammunition, and a

great heap of first-class beads made up into gorgeous necklaces and

girdles. He took very little notice of the presents, but requested that

the gun might be fired off. This was done, to the utter confusion of the

crowd, who rushed away in such haste, that they tumbled over each other

like so many rabbits; this delighted the king, who, although himself

startled, now roared with laughter. He told me that I must be hungry and

thirsty, therefore he hoped I would accept something to eat and drink:

accordingly he presented me with seventeen cows, twenty pots of sour

plantain cider and many loads of unripe plantains. I inquired whether

Speke had left a medicine chest with him. He replied that it was a very

feverish country, and that he and his people had used all the medicine.

Thus my last hope of quinine was cut off. I had always trusted to obtain

a supply from the king, as Speke had told me that he had left a bottle

with him. It was quite impossible to obtain any information from him,

and I was carried back to my hut, where I found Mrs. Baker lying down

with fever, and neither could render assistance to the other.

On the following morning the king again appeared. I was better, and I

had a long interview. He did not appear to heed my questions, but he at

once requested that I would ally myself with him, and attack his enemy,

Rionga. I told him that I could not embroil myself in such quarrels, but

that I had only one object, which was the lake. I requested that he

would give Ibrahim a large quantity of ivory, and that on his return

from Gondokoro he would bring him most valuable articles in exchange. He

said that he was not sure whether "my belly was black or white,"--by

this he intended to express "evil or good intentions;" but that if it

were white I should of course have no objection to exchange blood with

him, as a proof of friendship and sincerity. This was rather too strong

a dose! I replied that it would be impossible, as in my country the

shedding of blood was considered a proof of hostility; therefore he must

accept Ibrahim as my substitute. Accordingly the arms were bared and

pricked; as the blood flowed, it was licked by either party; and an

alliance was concluded. Ibrahim agreed to act with him against all his

enemies. It was arranged that Ibrahim now belonged to Kamrasi, and that

henceforth our parties should be entirely separate.

It rained in torrents, and our hut became so damp from the absorption of

the marsh soil, that my feet sank in the muddy floor. I had fever daily

at about 3 P.M. and lay perfectly helpless for five or six hours, until

the attack passed off; this reduced me to extreme weakness. My wife

suffered quite as acutely. It was a position of abject misery, which

will be better explained by a few rough extracts from my journal:--

"FEB. 16th.--ALL MY PORTERS HAVE DESERTED, having heard that the lake is

so far distant; I have not one man left to carry my luggage. Should we

not be able to cross the Asua river before the flood, we shall be nailed

for another year to this abominable country, ill with fever, and without

medicine, clothes, or supplies.

"FEB. 17th.--Fever last night; rain, as usual, with mud accompaniment.

One of Kamrasi's headmen, whose tongue I have loosened by presents,

tells me that he has been to the lake in ten days to purchase salt, and

that a man loaded with salt can return in fifteen days. God knows the

truth! and I am pressed for time, while Kamrasi delays me in the most

annoying manner.

"Kamrasi came today; as usual, he wanted all that I had, and insisted

upon a present of my sword, watch, and compass, all of which I

positively refused. I told him that he had deceived me by saying that

the lake was so distant as six months' journey, as I knew that it was

only ten days. He rudely answered, 'Go, if you like; but don't blame me

if you can't get back: it is twenty days' march; you may believe it or

not, as you choose.' To my question as to the means of procuring

porters, he gave no reply, except by asking for my sword, and for my

beautiful little Fletcher rifle.

"I retired to my hut in disgust. This afternoon a messenger arrived from

the king with twenty-four small pieces of straw, cut into lengths of

about four inches. These he laid carefully in a row, and explained that

Speke had given that number of presents, whereas I had only given ten,

the latter figure being carefully exemplified by ten pieces of straw; he

wished to know 'why I did not give him the same number as he had

received from Speke?' This miserable, grasping, lying coward is

nevertheless a king, and the success of my expedition depends upon him."

"FEB. 20th.--Cloudy, as usual; neither sun, moon, nor stars will show

themselves. Fortunately, milk can be procured here. I live upon

buttermilk. Kamrasi came, and gave twenty elephants' tusks as a present

to Ibrahim. There is a report that Debono's people, under the command of

Ras-Galla, are once more at Rionga's; this has frightened him awfully."

Feb. 21st.-This morning Kamrasi was civil enough to allow us to quit the

marsh, the mosquito-nest and fever-bed where we had been in durance,

and we crossed to the other side of the Kafoor river, and quartered in

M'rooli. I went to see him, and, after a long consultation, he promised

to send me to the lake tomorrow. I immediately took off my sword and

belt, and presented them to him, explaining that, as I was now convinced

of his friendship, I had a pleasure in offering my sword as a proof of

my amicable feeling, as I thus placed the weapon of self-defence in his

hand, and I should trust to his protection. As a proof of the temper of

the blade, I offered to cut through the strongest shield he could

produce. This delighted him amazingly. I now trust to be able to reach

the junction of the Somerset with the M-wootan N'zige at Magungo, and

from thence to overtake Ibrahim at Shooa, and to hurry on to Gondokoro,

where a boat will be waiting for me from Khartoum.

"Ibrahim and his men marched this morning, on their return to Karuma,

leaving me here with my little party of thirteen men.

"Should I succeed in discovering the lake I shall thank God most

sincerely. The toil, anxiety, the biting annoyances I have daily been

obliged to put up with in my association with the Turks, added to our

now constant ill-health, are enough to break down the constitution of an

elephant. Every day I must give!--to the Turks, give!--to the natives,

give! If I lend anything to the Turks, it is an insult should I ask for

its return. One hasty word might have upset my boat; and now, for twelve

months, I have had to talk, to explain, to manage, and to lead the

brutes in this direction, like a coachman driving jibbing horses. Hosts

of presents to Ibrahim, combined with a vivid description of the

advantages that he would secure by opening a trade with Kamrasi, at

length led him to this country, which I could not have reached without

his aid, as it would have been impossible for me to have procured

porters without cattle. The porters I have always received from him as

far as Karuma for a payment of six copper rings per head for every

journey. I have now arranged that he shall leave for me thirty head of

cattle at Shooa; thus, should he have started for Gondokoro before my

arrival at Shooa, I shall be able to procure porters, and arrive in time

for the expected boat.

"Up to this day astronomical observations have been impossible, a thick

coat of slate colour obscuring the heavens. Tonight I obtained a good

observation of Canopus, giving latitude 1 degree 38 minutes N. By

Casella's thermometer I made the altitude of the Somerset at M'rooli

4,061 feet above the sea, showing a fall of 65 feet between this point

and below the falls at Karuma in a distance of 37 miles of latitude.

"Just as Ibrahim was leaving this morning I was obliged to secure the

slave Bacheeta as interpreter, at the price of three double-barrelled

guns to purchase her freedom. I explained to her that she was now free,

and that I wished her to act as interpreter during my stay in Unyoro;

and that I would then leave her in her own country, Chopi, on my return

from the lake. Far from being pleased at the change, she regretted the

loss of the Turks, and became excessively sulky, although my wife decked

her out with beads, and gave her a new petticoat to put her in a good

humour."

"Feb. 22d.--Kamrasi promised to send me porters, and that we should

start for the lake today, but there is no sign of preparation; thus am I

delayed when every day is so precious. Added to this trouble, the woman

that I have as an interpreter wall not speak, being the most sulky

individual I ever encountered. In the evening Kamrasi sent to say he

would give a guide and porters tomorrow morning. It is impossible to

depend upon him."

After some delay we were at length honoured by a visit from Kamrasi,

accompanied by a number of his people, and he promised that we should

start on the following day. He pointed out a chief and a guide who were

to have us in their charge, and who were to see that we obtained all

that we should require. He concluded, as usual, by asking for my watch

and for a number of beads; the latter I gave him, together with a

quantity of ammunition for his guns. He showed me a beautiful

double-barrelled rifle by Blissett, that Speke had given him. I wished

to secure this, to give to Speke on my return to England, as he had told

me, when at Gondokoro, how he had been obliged to part with that and

many other articles sorely against his will. I therefore offered to give

him three common double-barrelled guns in exchange for the rifle. This

he declined, as he was quite aware of the difference in quality. He then

produced a large silver chronometer that he had received from Speke. "It

was DEAD," he said, "and he wished me to repair it." This I declared to

be impossible. He then confessed to having explained its construction,

and the cause of the "ticking," to his people, by the aid of a needle,

and that it had never ticked since that occasion. I regretted to see

such "pearls cast before swine," as the rifle and chronometer in the

hands of Kamrasi. Thus he had plundered Speke and Grant of all they

possessed before he would allow them to proceed.

It is the rapacity of the chiefs of the various tribes that renders

African exploration so difficult. Each tribe wishes' to monopolize your

entire stock of valuables, without which the traveller would be utterly

helpless. The difficulty of procuring porters limits the amount of

baggage thus a given supply must carry you through a certain period of

time; if your supply should fail, the expedition terminates with your

power of giving. It is thus extremely difficult to arrange the

expenditure so as to satisfy all parties, and still to retain a

sufficient balance. Being utterly cut off from all communication with

the world, there is no possibility of receiving assistance. The

traveller depends entirely upon himself, under Providence, and must.

adapt himself and his means to circumstances.

CHAPTER XI.

THE START FOR THE LAKE:

The day of starting at length arrived; the chief and guide appeared, and

we were led to the Kafoor river, where canoes were in readiness to

transport us to the south side. This was to our old quarters on the

marsh. The direct course to the lake was west, and I fully expected some

deception, as it was impossible to trust Kamrasi. I complained to the

guide, and insisted upon his pointing out the direction of the lake,

which he did, in its real position, west; but he explained that we must

follow the south bank of the Kafoor river for some days, as there was an

impassable morass that precluded a direct course. This did not appear

satisfactory, and the whole affair looked suspicious, as we had formerly

been deceived by being led across the river in the same spot, and not

allowed to return. We were now led along the banks of the Kafoor for

about a mile, until we arrived at a cluster of huts; here we were to

wait for Kamrasi, who had promised to take leave of us. The sun was

overpowering, and we dismounted from our oxen, and took shelter in a

blacksmith's shed. In about an hour Kamrasi arrived, attended by a

considerable number of men, and took his seat in our shed. I felt

convinced that his visit was simply intended to peel the last skin from

the onion. I had already given him nearly all that I had, but he hoped

to extract the whole before I should depart.

He almost immediately commenced the conversation by asking for a pretty

yellow muslin Turkish handkerchief fringed with silver drops that Mrs.

Baker wore upon her head: one of these had already been given to him,

and I explained that this was the last remaining, and that she required

it .... He "must" have it .... It was given.

He then demanded other handkerchiefs. We had literally nothing but a few

most ragged towels; he would accept no excuse, and insisted upon a

portmanteau being unpacked, that he might satisfy himself by actual

inspection. The luggage, all ready for the journey, had to be unstrapped

and examined, and the rags were displayed in succession; but so wretched

and uninviting was the exhibition of the family linen, that he simply

returned them, and said "they did not suit him." Beads he must have, or

I was "his enemy." A selection of the best opal beads was immediately

given him. I rose from the stone upon which I was sitting, and declared

that we must start immediately. "Don't be in a hurry," he replied; "you

have plenty of time; but you have not given me that watch you promised

me." .... This was my only watch that he had begged for, and had been

refused every day during my stay at M'rooli. So pertinacious a beggar I

had never seen. I explained to him that, without the watch, my, journey

would be useless, but that I would give him all that I had except the

watch when the exploration should be completed, as I should require

nothing on my direct return to Gondokoro. At the same time, I repeated

to him the arrangement for the journey that he had promised, begging him

not to deceive me, as my wife and I should both die if we were compelled

to remain another year in this country by losing the annual boats in

Gondokoro. The understanding was this: he was to give me porters to the

lake, where I was to be furnished with canoes to take me to Magungo,

which was situated at the junction of the Somerset. From Magungo he told

me that I should see the Nile issuing from the lake close to the spot

where the Somerset entered, and that the canoes should take me down the

river, and porters should carry my effects from the nearest point to

Shooa, and deliver me at my old station without delay. Should he be

faithful to this engagement, I trusted to procure porters from Shooa,

and to reach Gondokoro in time for the annual boats. I had arranged that

a boat should be sent from Khartoum to await me at Gondokoro early in

this year, 1864; but I felt sure that should I be long delayed, the boat

would return without me, as the people would be afraid to remain alone

at Gondokoro after the other boats had quitted.

In our present weak state another year of Central Africa without quinine

appeared to warrant death; it was a race against time, all was untrodden

ground before us, and the distance quite uncertain. I trembled for my

wife, and weighed the risk of another year in this horrible country

should we lose the boats. With the self-sacrificing devotion that she

had shown in every trial, she implored me not to think of any risks on

her account, but to push forward and discover the lake---that she had

determined not to return until she had herself reached the "M'wootan

N'zige."

I now requested Kamrasi to allow us to take leave, as we had not an hour

to lose. In the coolest manner he replied, "I will send you to the lake

and to Shooa, as I have promised; but, YOU MUST LEAVE YOUR WIFE WITH ME!"

At that moment we were surrounded by a great number of natives, and my

suspicions of treachery at having been led across the Kafoor river

appeared confirmed by this insolent demand. If this were to be the end

of the expedition I resolved that it should also be the end of Kamrasi,

and, drawing my revolver quietly, I held it within two feet of his

chest, and looking at him with undisguised contempt, I told him that if

I touched the trigger, not all his men could save him: and that if he

dared to repeat the insult I would shoot him on the spot. At the same

time I explained to him that in my country such insolence would entail

bloodshed, and that I looked upon him as an ignorant ox who knew no

better, and that this excuse alone could save him. My wife, naturally

indignant, had risen from her seat, and, maddened with the excitement of

the moment, she made him a little speech in Arabic (not a word of which

he understood), with a countenance almost as amiable as the head of

Medusa. Altogether the Mise en Scene utterly astonished him; the woman

Bacheeta, although savage, had appropriated the insult to her mistress,

and she also fearlessly let fly at Kamrasi, translating as nearly as she

could the complimentary address that Medusa had just delivered.

Whether this little coup de theatre had so impressed Kamrasi with

British female independence that he wished to be off his bargain, I

cannot say, but with an air of complete astonishment, he said, "Don't be

angry! I had no intention of offending you by asking for your wife; I

will give you a wife, if you want one, and I thought you might have no

objection to give me yours; it is my custom to give my visitors pretty

wives, and I thought you might exchange. Don't make a fuss about it; if

you don't like it, there's an end of it; I will never mention it again."

This very practical apology I received very sternly, and merely insisted

upon starting. He seemed rather confused at having committed himself,

and to make amends he called his people and ordered them to carry our

loads.

His men ordered a number of women, who had assembled out of curiosity,

to shoulder the luggage and carry it to the next village, where they

would be relieved. I assisted my wife upon her ox, and with a very cold

adieu to Kamrasi, I turned my back most gladly on M'rooli.

The country was a vast flat of grass land interspersed with small

villages and patches of sweet potatoes; these were very inferior, owing

to the want of drainage. For about two miles we continued on the banks

of the Kafoor river; the women who carried the luggage were straggling

in disorder, and my few men were much scattered in their endeavours to

collect them. We approached a considerable village; but just as we were

nearing it, out rushed about six hundred men with lances and shields,

screaming and yelling like so many demons. For the moment, I thought it

was an attack, but almost immediately I noticed that women and children

were mingled with the men.

My men had not taken so cool a view of the excited throng that was now

approaching us at full speed, brandishing their spears, and engaging

with each other in mock combat. "There's a fight!---there's a fight! "my

men exclaimed; "we are attacked! fire at them, Hawaga." However, in a

few seconds I persuaded them that it was a mere parade, and that there

was no danger. With a rush, like a cloud of locusts, the natives closed

around us, dancing, gesticulating, and yelling before my ox, feigning to

attack us with spears and shields, then engaging in sham fights with

each other, and behaving like so many madmen. A very tall chief

accompanied them; and one of their men was suddenly knocked down, and

attacked by the crowd with sticks and lances, and lay on the ground

covered with blood: what his offence had been I did not hear. The entire

crowd were most grotesquely got up, being dressed in either leopard or

white monkey skins, with cows' tails strapped on behind, and antelopes'

horns fitted upon their heads, while their chins were ornamented with

false beards, made of the bushy ends of cows' tails sewed together.

Altogether, I never saw a more unearthly set of creatures; they were

perfect illustrations of my childish ideas of devils--horns, tails,

and all, excepting the hoofs; they were our escort! furnished by Kamrasi

to accompany us to the lake. Fortunately for all parties the Turks were

not with us on that occasion, or the satanic escort would certainly have

been received with a volley when they so rashly advanced to compliment

us by their absurd performances.

We marched till 7 P.M. over flat, uninteresting country, and then halted

at a miserable village which the people had deserted, as they expected

our arrival. The following morning I found much difficulty in getting

our escort together, as they had been foraging throughout the

neighbourhood; these "devil's own" were a portion of Kamrasi's troops,

who considered themselves entitled to plunder ad libitum throughout the

march; however, after some delay, they collected, and their tall chief

approached me, and begged that a gun might be fired as a curiosity. The

escort had crowded around us, and as the boy Saat was close to me, I

ordered him to fire his gun. This was Saat's greatest delight, and bang

went one barrel unexpectedly, close to the tall chief's ear. The effect

was charming. The tall chief, thinking himself injured, clasped his head

with both hands, and bolted through the crowd, which, struck with a

sudden panic, rushed away in all directions, the "devil's own" tumbling

over each other, and utterly scattered by the second barrel which Saat

exultingly fired in derision as Kamrasi's warlike regiment dissolved

before a sound. I felt quite sure, that in the event of a fight, one

scream from the "Baby," with its charge of forty small bullets, would

win the battle, if well delivered into a crowd of Kamrasi's troops.

That afternoon, after a march through a most beautiful forest of large

mimosas in full blossom, we arrived at the morass that had necessitated

this great detour from our direct course to the lake. It was nearly

three-quarters of a mile broad, and so deep, that in many places the

oxen were obliged to swim; both Mrs. Baker and I were carried across on

our angareps by twelve men with the greatest difficulty; the guide, who

waded before us to show the way, suddenly disappeared in a deep hole,

and his bundle that he had carried on his head, being of light

substance, was seen floating like a buoy upon the surface; after a

thorough sousing, the guide reappeared, and scrambled out, and we made a

circuit, the men toiling frequently up to their necks through mud and

water. On arrival at the opposite side we continued through the same

beautiful forest, and slept that night at a deserted village, M'Baze. I

obtained two observations; one of Capella, giving lat. 1 degrees 24

minutes 47 seconds N., and of Canopus 1 degree 23 minutes 29 seconds.

The next day we were much annoyed by our native escort; instead of

attending to us, they employed their time in capering and dancing about,

screaming and gesticulating, and suddenly rushing off in advance

whenever we approached a village, which they plundered before we could

arrive. In this manner every place was stripped; nor could we procure

anything to eat unless by purchasing it for beads from the native

escort. We slept at Karche, lat. 1 degree 19 minutes 31 seconds N.

We were both ill, but were obliged to ride through the hottest hours of

the sun, as our followers were never ready to start at an early hour in

the morning. The native escort were perfectly independent, and so

utterly wild and savage in their manner, that they appeared more

dangerous than the general inhabitants of the country.

My wife was extremely anxious, since the occasion of Kamrasi's

"proposal," as she was suspicious that so large an escort as three

hundred men had been given for some treacherous purpose, and that I

should perhaps be waylaid to enable them to steal her for the king. I

had not the slightest fear of such an occurrence, as sentries were

always on guard during the night, and I was well prepared during the

day.

On the following morning we had the usual difficulty in collecting

porters, those of the preceding day having absconded, and others were

recruited from distant villages by the native escort, who enjoyed the

excuse of hunting for porters, as it gave them an opportunity of

foraging throughout the neighbourhood. During this time we had to wait

until the sun was high; we thus lost the cool hours of morning, and it

increased our fatigue. Having at length started, we arrived in the

afternoon at the Kafoor river, at a bend from the south where it was

necessary to cross over in our westerly course. The stream was in the

centre of a marsh, and although deep, it was so covered with thickly

matted water-grass and other aquatic plants, that a natural floating

bridge was established by a carpet of weeds about two feet thick: upon

this waving and unsteady surface the men ran quickly across, sinking

merely to the ankles, although beneath the tough vegetation there was

deep water. It was equally impossible to ride or to be carried over this

treacherous surface; thus I led the way, and begged Mrs. Baker to follow

me on foot as quickly as possible, precisely in my track. The river was

about eighty yards wide, and I had scarcely completed a fourth of the

distance and looked back to see if my wife followed close to me, when I

was horrified to see her standing in one spot, and sinking gradually

through the weeds, while her face was distorted and perfectly purple.

Almost as soon as I perceived her, she fell, as though shot dead.

In an instant I was by her side; and with the assistance of eight or ten

of my men, who were fortunately close to me, I dragged her like a corpse

through the yielding vegetation, and up to our waists we scrambled

across to the other side, just keeping her head above the water: to have

carried her would have been impossible, as we should all have sunk

together through the weeds. I laid her under a tree, and bathed her head

and face with water, as for the moment I thought she had fainted; but

she lay perfectly insensible, as though dead, with teeth and hands

firmly clenched, and her eyes open, but fixed. It was a coup de soleil.

Many of the porters had gone on ahead with the baggage; and I started

off a man in haste to recall an angarep upon which to carry her, and

also for a bag with a change of clothes, as we had dragged her through

the river. It was in vain that I rubbed her heart, and the black women

rubbed her feet, to endeavour to restore animation. At length the litter

came, and after changing her clothes, she was carried mournfully forward

as a corpse. Constantly we had to halt and support her head, as a

painful rattling in the throat betokened suffocation.

At length we reached a village, and halted for the night. I laid her

carefully in a miserable hut, and watched beside her. I opened her

clenched teeth with a small wooden wedge, and inserted a wet rag, upon

which I dropped water to moisten her tongue, which was dry as fur. The

unfeeling brutes that composed the native escort were yelling and

dancing as though all were well; and I ordered their chief at once to

return with them to Kamrasi, as I would travel with them no longer. At

first they refused to return; until at length I vowed that I would fire

into them should they accompany us on the following morning. Day broke

and it was a relief to have got rid of the brutal escort. They had

departed, and I had now my own men, and the guides supplied by Kamrasi.

There was nothing to eat in this spot. My wife had never stirred since

she fell by the coup de soleil, and merely respired about five times in

a minute. It was impossible to remain; the people would have starved.

She was laid gently upon her litter, and we started forward on our

funeral course. I was ill and broken-hearted, and I followed by her side

through the long day's march over wild parklands and streams, with thick

forest and deep marshy bottoms; over undulating hills, and through

valleys of tall papyrus rushes, which, as we brushed through them on our

melancholy way, waved over the litter like the black plumes of a hearse.

We halted at a village, and again the night was passed in watching. I

was wet, and coated with mud from the swampy marsh, and shivered with

ague; but the cold within was greater than all. No change had taken

place; she had never moved. I had plenty of fat, and I made four balls

of about half a pound, each of which would burn for three hours. A piece

of a broken water-jar formed a lamp, several pieces of rag serving for

wicks. So in solitude the still calm night passed away as I sat by her

side and watched. In the drawn and distorted features that lay before me

I could hardly trace the same face that for years had been my comfort

through all the difficulties and dangers of my path. Was she to die? Was

so terrible a sacrifice to be the result of my selfish exile?

Again the night passed away. Once more the march. Though weak and ill,

and for two nights without a moment's sleep, I felt no fatigue, but

mechanically followed by the side of the litter as though in a dream.

The same wild country diversified with marsh and forest. Again we

halted. The night came, and I sat by her side in a miserable hut, with

the feeble lamp flickering while she lay as in death. She had never

moved a muscle since she fell. My people slept. I was alone, and no

sound broke the stillness of the night. The ears ached at the utter

silence, till the sudden wild cry of a hyena made me shudder as the

horrible thought rushed through my brain, that, should she be buried in

this lonely spot, the hyena would . . . disturb her rest.

The morning was not far distant; it was past four o'clock. I had passed

the night in replacing wet cloths upon her head and moistening her lips,

as she lay apparently lifeless on her litter. I could do nothing more;

in solitude and abject misery in that dark hour, in a country of savage

heathens, thousand of miles away from a Christian land, I beseeched an

aid above all human, trusting alone to Him.

The morning broke; my lamp had just burnt out, and, cramped with the

night's watching, I rose from my low seat, and seeing that she lay in

the same unaltered state, I went to the door of the hut to breathe one

gasp of the fresh morning air. I was watching the first red streak that

heralded the rising sun, when I was startled by the words, "Thank God,"

faintly uttered behind me. Suddenly she had awoke from her torpor, and

with a heart overflowing I went to her bedside. Her eyes were full of

madness! She spoke; but the brain was gone!

I will not inflict a description of the terrible trial of seven days of

brain fever, with its attendant horrors. The rain poured in torrents,

and day after day we were forced to travel, for want of provisions, not

being able to remain in one position. Every now and then we shot a few

guinea-fowl, but rarely; there was no game, although the country was

most favourable. In the forests we procured wild honey, but the deserted

villages contained no supplies, as we were on the frontier of Uganda,

and M'tese's people had plundered the district. For seven nights I had

not slept, and although as weak as a reed, I had marched by the side of

her litter. Nature could resist no longer. We reached a village one

evening; she had been in violent convulsions successively--it was all

but over. I laid her down on her litter within a hut; covered her with a

Scotch plaid; and I fell upon my mat insensible, worn out with sorrow

and fatigue. My men put a new handle to the pickaxe that evening, and

sought for a dry spot to dig her grave!

CHAPTER XIL

RECOVERED.

The sun had risen when I woke. I had slept, and, horrified as the idea

flashed upon me that she must be dead, and that I had not been with her,

I started up. She lay upon her bed, pale as marble, and with that calm

serenity that the features assume when the cares of life no longer act

upon the mind, and the body rests in death. The dreadful thought bowed

me down; but as I gazed upon her in fear, her chest gently heaved, not

with the convulsive throbs of fever, but naturally. She was asleep; and

when at a sudden noise she opened her eyes, they were calm and clear.

She was saved! When not a ray of hope remained, God alone knows what

helped us. The gratitude of that moment I will not attempt to describe.

Fortunately there were many fowls in this village; we found several

nests of fresh eggs in the straw which littered the hut; these were most

acceptable after our hard fare, and produced a good supply of soup.

Having rested for two days, we again moved forward, Mrs. Baker being

carried on a litter. We now continued on elevated ground, on the north

side of a valley running from west to east, about sixteen miles broad,

and exceedingly swampy. The rocks composing the ridge upon which we

travelled due west were all gneiss and quartz, with occasional breaks,

forming narrow valleys, all of which were swamps choked with immense

papyrus rushes, that made the march very fatiguing. In one of these

muddy bottoms one of my riding oxen that was ill, stuck fast, and we

were obliged to abandon it, intending to send a number of natives to

drag it out with ropes.

On arrival at a village, our guide started about fifty men for this

purpose, while we continued our journey. That evening we reached a

village belonging to a headman, and very superior to most that we had

passed on the route from M'rooli: large sugarcanes of the blue variety

were growing in the fields, and I had seen coffee growing wild in the

forest in the vicinity. I was sitting at the door of the hut about two

hours after sunset, smoking a pipe of excellent tobacco, when I suddenly

heard a great singing in chorus advancing rapidly from a distance

towards the entrance of the courtyard. At first I imagined that the

natives intended dancing, which was an infliction that I wished to

avoid, as I was tired and feverish; but in a few minutes the boy Saat

introduced a headman, who told me that the riding ox had died in the

swamp where he had stuck fast in the morning, and that the natives had

brought his body to me. "What!" I replied, "brought his body, the entire

ox, to me?" "The entire ox as he died is delivered at your door,"

answered the headman; "I could not allow any of your property to be lost

upon the road. Had the body of the ox not been delivered to you, we

might have been suspected of having stolen it." I went to the entrance

of the courtyard, and amidst a crowd of natives I found the entire ox

exactly as he had died. They had carried him about eight miles on a

litter, which they had constructed of two immensely long posts with

cross-pieces of bamboo, upon which they had laid the body. They would

not eat the flesh, and seemed quite disgusted at the idea, as they

replied that "it had died."

It is a curious distinction of the Unyoro people, that they are

peculiarly clean feeders, and will not touch either the flesh of animals

that have died, neither of those that are sick; nor will they eat the

crocodile. They asked for no remuneration for bringing their heavy load

so great a distance; and they departed in good humour as a matter of

course.

Never were such contradictory people as these creatures; they had

troubled us dreadfully during the journey, as they would suddenly

exclaim against the weight of their loads, and throw them down, and bolt

into the high grass; yet now they had of their own free will delivered

to me a whole dead ox from a distance of eight miles, precisely as

though it had been an object of the greatest value.

The name of this village was Parkani. For several days past our guides

had told us that we were very near to the lake, and we were now assured

that we should reach it on the morrow. I had noticed a lofty range of

mountains at an immense distance west, and I had imagined that the lake

lay on the other side of this chain; but I was now informed that those

mountains formed the western frontier of the M'-wootan N'zige, and that

the lake was actually within a march of Parkani. I could not believe it

possible that we were so near the object of our search. The guide

Rabonga now appeared, and declared that if we started early on the

following morning we should be able to wash in the lake by noon!

That night I hardly slept. For years I had striven to reach the "sources

of the Nile." In my nightly dreams during that arduous voyage I had

always failed, but after so much hard work and perseverance the cup was

at my very lips, and I was to drink at the mysterious fountain before

another sun should set--at that great reservoir of Nature that ever

since creation had baffled all discovery. I had hoped, and prayed, and

striven through all kinds of difficulties, in sickness, starvation, and

fatigue, to reach that hidden source; and when it had appeared

impossible, we had both determined to die upon the road rather than

return defeated. Was it possible that it was so near, and that tomorrow

we could say, "the work is accomplished?"

The 14th March.--The sun had not risen when I was spurring my ox after

the guide, who, having been promised a double handful of beads on

arrival at the lake, had caught the enthusiasm of the moment. The day

broke beautifully clear, and having crossed a deep valley between the

hills, we toiled up the opposite slope. I hurried to the summit. The

glory of our prize burst suddenly upon me! There, like a sea of

quicksilver, lay far beneath the grand expanse of water,--a boundless

sea horizon on the south and southwest, glittering in the noonday sun;

and on the west, at fifty or sixty miles' distance, blue mountains rose

from the bosom of the lake to a height of about 7,000 feet above its

level.

It is impossible to describe the triumph of that moment;--here was the

reward for all our labour--for the years of tenacity with which we had

toiled through Africa. England had won the sources of the Nile! Long

before I reached this spot, I had arranged to give three cheers with all

our men in English style in honour of the discovery, but now that I

looked down upon the great inland sea lying nestled in the very heart of

Africa, and thought how vainly mankind had sought these sources

throughout so many ages, and reflected that I had been the humble

instrument permitted to unravel this portion of the great mystery when

so many greater than I had failed, I felt too serious to vent my

feelings in vain cheers for victory, and I sincerely thanked God for

having guided and supported us through all dangers to the good end. I

was about 1,500 feet above the lake, and I looked down from the steep

granite cliff upon those welcome waters--upon that vast reservoir

which nourished Egypt and brought fertility where all was wilderness--

upon that great source so long hidden from mankind; that source of

bounty and of blessings to millions of human beings; and as one of the

greatest objects in nature, I determined to honour it with a great name.

As an imperishable memorial of one loved and mourned by our gracious

Queen and deplored by every Englishman, I called this great lake "the

Albert N'yanza." The Victoria and the Albert lakes are the two Sources

of the Nile.

The zigzag path to descend to the lake was so steep and dangerous that

we were forced to leave our oxen with a guide, who was to take them to

Magungo and wait for our arrival. We commenced the descent of the steep

pass on foot. I led the way, grasping a stout bamboo. My wife in extreme

weakness tottered down the pass, supporting herself upon my shoulder,

and stopping to rest every twenty paces. After a toilsome descent of

about two hours, weak with years of fever, but for the moment

strengthened by success, we gained the level plain below the cliff. A

walk of about a mile through flat sandy meadows of fine turf

interspersed with trees and bush, brought us to the water's edge. The

waves were rolling upon a white pebbly beach: I rushed into the lake,

and thirsty with heat and fatigue, with a heart full of gratitude, I

drank deeply from the Sources of the Nile. Within a quarter of a mile of

the lake was a fishing village named Vacovia, in which we now

established ourselves. Everything smelt of fish--and everything looked

like fishing; not the "gentle art" of England with rod and fly, but

harpoons were leaning against the huts, and lines almost as thick as the

little finger were hanging up to dry, to which were attached iron hooks

of a size that said much for the monsters of the Albert lake. On

entering the hut I found a prodigious quantity of tackle; the lines were

beautifully made of the fibre of the plantain stem, and were exceedingly

elastic, and well adapted to withstand the first rush of a heavy fish;

the hooks were very coarse, but well barbed, and varied in size from two

to six inches. A number of harpoons and floats for hippopotami were

arranged in good order, and the tout ensemble of the hut showed that the

owner was a sportsman.

The harpoons for hippopotami were precisely the same pattern as those

used by the Hamran Arabs on the Taka frontier of Abyssinia, having a

narrow blade of three-quarters of an inch in width, with only one barb.

The rope fitted to the harpoon was beautifully made of plantain fibre,

and the float was a huge piece of ambatch-wood about fifteen inches in

diameter. They speared the hippopotamus from canoes, and these large

floats were necessary to be easily distinguished in the rough waters of

the lake.

My men were perfectly astounded at the appearance of the lake. The

journey had been so long, and "hope deferred" had so completely sickened

their hearts, that they had long since disbelieved in the existence of

the lake, and they were persuaded that I was leading them to the sea.

They now looked at the lake with amazement--two of them had already

seen the sea at Alexandria, and they unhesitatingly declared that this

was the sea, but that it was not salt.

Vacovia was a miserable place, and the soil was so impregnated with

salt, that no cultivation was possible. Salt was the natural product of

the country; and the population were employed in its manufacture, which

constituted the business of the lake shores--being exchanged for

supplies from the interior. I went to examine the pits: these were about

six feet deep, from which was dug a black sandy mud that was placed in

large earthenware jars; these were supported upon frames, and mixed with

water, which filtering rapidly through small holes in the bottom, was

received in jars beneath: this water was again used with fresh mud until

it became a strong brine, when it was boiled and evaporated. The salt

was white, but very bitter. I imagine that it has been formed by the

decay of aquatic plants that have been washed ashore by the waves;

decomposing, they have formed a mud deposit, and much potash is combined

with the salt. The flat sandy meadow that extends from the lake for

about a mile to the foot of the precipitous cliffs of 1,500 feet,

appears to have formed at one period the bottom of the lake--in fact,

the flat land of Vacovia looks like a bay, as the mountain cliffs about

five miles south and north descend abruptly to the water, and the flat

is the bottom of a horseshoe formed by the cliffs. Were the level of the

lake fifteen feet higher, this flat would be flooded to the base of the

hills.

I procured a couple of kids from the chief of the village for some blue

beads, and having received an ox as a present from the headman of

Parkani in return for a number of beads and bracelets, I gave my men a

grand feast in honour of the discovery; I made them an address,

explaining to them how much trouble we should have been saved had my

whole party behaved well from the first commencement and trusted to my

guidance, as we should have arrived here twelve mouths ago; at the same

time I told them, that it was a greater honour to have achieved the task

with so small a force as thirteen men, and that as the lake was thus

happily reached, and Mrs. Baker was restored to health after so terrible

a danger, I should forgive them past offences and wipe out all that had

been noted against them in my journal. This delighted my people, who

ejaculated "El hamd el Illah!" (thank God!) and fell to immediately at

their beef.

At sunrise on the following morning I took the compass, and accompanied

by the chief of the village, my guide Rabonga, and the woman Bacheeta, I

went to the borders of the lake to survey the country. It was

beautifully clear, and with a powerful telescope I could distinguish two

large waterfalls that cleft the sides of the mountains on the opposite

shore. Although the outline of the mountains was distinct upon the

bright blue sky, and the dark shades upon their sides denoted deep

gorges, I could not distinguish other features than the two great falls,

which looked like threads of silver on the dark face of the mountains.

No base had been visible, even from an elevation of 1,500 feet above the

water level, on my first view of the lake, but the chain of lofty

mountains on the west appeared to rise suddenly from the water. This

appearance must have been due to the great distance, the base being

below the horizon, as dense columns of smoke were ascending apparently

from the surface of the water: this must have been produced by the

burning of prairies at the foot of the mountains. The chief assured me

that large canoes had been known to cross over from the other side, but

that it required four days and nights of hard rowing to accomplish the

voyage, and that many boats had been lost in the attempt. The canoes of

Unyoro were not adapted for so dangerous a journey; but the western

shore of the lake was comprised in the great kingdom of Malegga,

governed by King Kajoro, who possessed large canoes, and traded with

Kamrasi from a point opposite to Magungo, where the lake was contracted

to the width of one day's voyage. He described Malegga as a very

powerful country, and of greater extent than either Unyora or Uganda.

. . . South of Malegga was a country named Tori, governed by a king of

the same name: beyond that country to the south on the western shore

no intelligence could be obtained from any one.

The lake was known to extend as far south as Karagwe; and the old story

was repeated, that Rumanika, the king of that country, was in the habit

of sending ivory-hunting parties to the lake at Utumbi, and that

formerly they had navigated the lake to Magungo. This was a curious

confirmation of the report given me by Speke at Gondokoro, who wrote:

"Rumanika is constantly in the habit of sending ivory-hunting parties to

Utumbi."

The eastern shores of the lake were, from north to south, occupied by

Chopi, Unyoro, Uganda, Utumbi, and Karagwe: from the last point, which

could not be less than about two degrees south latitude, the lake was

reported to turn suddenly to the west, and to continue in that direction

for an unknown distance. North of Malegga, on the west of the lake, was

a small country called M'Caroli; then Koshi, on the west side of the

Nile at its exit from the lake; and on the east side of the Nile was the

Madi, opposite to Koshi. Both the guide and the chief of Vacovia

informed me that we should be taken by canoes to Magungo, to the point

at which the Somerset that we had left at Karuma joined the lake; but

that we could not ascend it, as it was a succession of cataracts the

whole way from Karuma until within a short distance of Magungo. The exit

of the Nile from the lake at Koshi was navigable for a considerable

distance, and canoes could descend the river as far as the Madi.

They both agreed that the level of the lake was never lower than at

present, and that it never rose higher than a mark upon the beach that

accounted for an increase of about four feet. The beach was perfectly

clean sand, upon which the waves rolled like those of the sea, throwing

up weeds precisely as seaweed may be seen upon the English shore. It was

a grand sight to look upon this vast reservoir of the mighty Nile, and

to watch the heavy swell tumbling upon the beach, while far to the

southwest the eye searched as vainly for a bound as though upon the

Atlantic. It was with extreme emotion that I enjoyed this glorious

scene. My wife, who had followed me so devotedly, stood by my side pale

and exhausted--a wreck upon the shores of the great Albert lake that

we had so long striven to reach. No European foot had ever trod upon its

sand, nor had the eyes of a white man ever scanned its vast expanse of

water. We were the first; and this was the key to the great secret that

even Julius Caesar yearned to unravel, but in vain. Here was the great

basin of the Nile that received EVERY DROP OF WATER, even from the

passing shower to the roaring mountain torrent that drained from Central

Africa towards the north. This was the great reservoir of the Nile!

The first coup d'oeil from the summit of the cliff 1,500 feet above the

level had suggested what a closer examination confirmed. The lake was a

vast depression far below the general level of the country, surrounded

by precipitous cliffs, and bounded on the west and southwest by great

ranges of mountains from five to seven thousand feet above the level of

its waters--thus it was the one great reservoir into which everything

MUST drain; and from this vast rocky cistern the Nile made its exit, a

giant in its birth. It was a grand arrangement of Nature for the birth

of so mighty and important a stream as the river Nile. The Victoria

N'yanza of Speke formed a reservoir at a high altitude, receiving a

drainage from the west by the Kitangule river, and Speke had seen the

M'fumbiro mountain at a great distance as a peak among other mountains

from which the streams descended, which by uniting formed the main river

Kitangule, the principal feeder of the Victoria lake from the west, in

about the 2 degrees S. latitude: thus the same chain of mountains that

fed the Victoria on the east must have a watershed to the west and north

that would flow into the Albert lake. The general drainage of the Nile

basin tending from south to north, and the Albert lake extending much

farther north than the Victoria, it receives the river from the latter

lake, and thus monopolizes the entire headwaters of the Nile. The Albert

is the grand reservoir, while the Victoria is the eastern source, the

parent streams that form these lakes are from the same origin, and the

Kitangule sheds its waters to the Victoria to be received eventually by

the Albert, precisely as the highlands of M'fumbiro and the Blue

Mountains pour their northern drainage direct into the Albert lake. The

entire Nile system, from the first Abyssinian tributary the Atbara in N.

latitude 17 deg. 37 min. even to the equator, exhibits a uniform

drainage from S.E. to N.W., every tributary flowing in that direction to

the main stream of the Nile; this system is persisted in by the Victoria

Nile, which having continued a northerly course from its exit from the

Victoria lake to Karuma in lat. 2 degrees 16' N. turns suddenly to the

west and meets the Albert lake at Magungo; thus, a line drawn from

Magungo to the Ripon Falls from the Victoria lake will prove the general

slope of the country to be the same as exemplified throughout the entire

system of the eastern basin of the Nile, tending from S.E. to N.W.

That many considerable affluents flow into the Albert lake there is no

doubt. The two waterfalls seen by telescope upon the western shore

descending from the Blue Mountains must be most important streams, or

they could not have been distinguished at so great a distance as fifty

or sixty miles; the natives assured me that very many streams, varying

in size, descended the mountains upon all sides into the general

reservoir.

I returned to my hut: the flat turf in the vicinity of the village was

strewn with the bones of immense fish, hippopotami, and crocodiles; but

the latter reptiles were merely caught in revenge for any outrage

committed by them, as their flesh was looked upon with disgust by the

natives of Unyoro. They were so numerous and voracious in the lake, that

the natives cautioned us not to allow the women to venture into the

water even to the knees when filling their water jars.

It was most important that we should hurry forward on our journey, as

our return to England depended entirely upon the possibility of reaching

Gondokoro before the end of April, otherwise the boats would have

departed. I impressed upon our guide and the chief that we must be

furnished with large canoes immediately, as we had no time to spare, and

I started off Rabonga to Magungo, where he was to meet us with our

riding oxen. The animals would be taken by a path upon the high ground;

there was no possibility of travelling near the lake, as the cliffs in

many places descended abruptly into deep water. I made him a present of

a large quantity of beads that I had promised to give him upon reaching

the lake; he took his departure, agreeing to meet us at Magungo with our

oxen, and to have porters in readiness to convey us direct to Shooa.

On the following morning not one of our party could rise from the

ground. Thirteen men, the boy Saat, four women, and we ourselves, were

all down with fever. The air was hot and close, and the country

frightfully unhealthy. The natives assured us that all strangers

suffered in a similar manner, and that no one could live at Vacovia

without repeated attacks of fever.

The delay in supplying the boats was most annoying; every hour was

precious; and the lying natives deceived us in every manner possible,

delaying us purposely in the hope of extorting beads.

The latitude of Vacovia was 1 degree 15 min. N.; longitude 30 degrees 50

min. E. My farthest southern point on the road from M'rooli was latitude

1 degree 13 minutes. We were now to turn our faces towards the north,

and every day's journey would bring us nearer home. But where was home?

As I looked at the map of the world, and at the little red spot that

represented old England far, far away, and then gazed on the wasted form

and haggard face of my wife and at my own attenuated frame, I hardly

dared hope for home again. We had now been three years ever toiling

onwards, and having completed the exploration of all the Abyssinian

affluents of the Nile, in itself an arduous undertaking, we were now

actually at the Nile head. We had neither health nor supplies, and the

great journey lay all before us.

Notwithstanding my daily entreaties that boats might be supplied without

delay, eight days were passed at Vacovia, during which time the whole

party suffered more or less from fever. At length canoes were reported

to have arrived, and I was requested to inspect them. They were merely

single trees neatly hollowed out, but very inferior in size to the large

canoes on the Nile at M'rooli. The largest boat was thirty-two feet

long, but I selected for ourselves one of twenty-six feet, but wider and

deeper.

Fortunately I had purchased at Khartoum an English screw auger 1 1/4

inch in diameter, and this tool I had brought with me, foreseeing some

difficulties in boating arrangements. I now bored holes two feet apart

in the gunwale of the canoe, and having prepared long elastic wands, I

spanned them in arches across the boat and lashed them to the auger

holes. This completed, I secured them by diagonal pieces, and concluded

by thatching the framework with a thin coating of reeds to protect us

from the sun; over the thatch I stretched ox-hides well drawn and

lashed, so as to render our roof waterproof. This arrangement formed a

tortoise-like protection that would be proof against sun and rain. I

then arranged some logs of exceedingly light wood along the bottom of

the canoe, and covered them with a thick bed of grass; this was covered

with an Abyssinian tanned ox-hide, and arranged with Scotch plaids. The

arrangements completed, afforded a cabin, perhaps not as luxurious as

those of the Peninsular and Oriental Company's vessels, but both rain-

and sun-proof, which was the great desideratum. In this rough vessel we

embarked on a calm morning, when hardly a ripple moved the even surface

of the lake. Each canoe had four rowers, two at either end. Their

paddles were beautifully shaped, hewn from one piece of wood, the blade

being rather wider than that of an ordinary spade, but concave in the

inner side, so as to give the rower a great hold upon the water. Having

purchased with some difficulty a few fowls and dried fish, I put the

greater number of my men in the larger canoe; and with Richarn, Saat,

and the women, including the interpreter Bacheeta, we led the way, and

started from Vacovia on the broad surface of the Albert N'yanza. The

rowers paddled bravely; and the canoe, although heavily laden, went

along at about four miles an hour. There was no excitement in Vacovia,

and the chief and two or three attendants were all who came to see us

off; they had a suspicion that bystanders might be invited to assist as

rowers, therefore the entire population of the village had deserted.

At leaving the shore, the chief had asked for a few beads, which, on

receiving, he threw into the lake to propitiate the inhabitants of the

deep, that no hippopotami should upset the canoe.