_=Edward Davis= Commander. On the coast of =New Spain= and
=Peru=. Algatrane, a bituminous earth. =Davis= is joined by
other Buccaneers. =Eaton= sails to the East Indies.
=Guayaquil= attempted. Rivers of =St. Jago=, and =Tomaco=. In
the Bay of =Panama=. Arrivals of numerous parties of
Buccaneers across the =Isthmus= from the =West Indies=._
[Sidenote: 1684. July. Coast of New Spain. Caldera Bay.] Dampier describes
the coast of _New Spain_ immediately westward of the _Cape Blanco_ last
mentioned, to fall in to the NE about four leagues, making a small bay,
which is by the Spaniards called _Caldera_[41]. Within the entrance of
this bay, a league from _Cape Blanco_, was a small brook of very good
water running into the sea. The land here is low, making a saddle between
two small hills. The ships anchored near the brook, in good depth, on a
bottom of clean hard sand; and at this place, their deceased Commander was
taken on shore and buried.
The country appeared thin of inhabitants, and the few seen were shy of
coming near strangers. Two Indians however were caught. Some cattle were
seen grazing near the shore, at a Beef _Estancian_ or Farm, three miles
distant from where the ships lay. Two boats were sent thither to bring
cattle, having with them one of the Indians for a guide. They arrived at
the farm towards evening, and some of the Buccaneers proposed that they
should remain quiet till daylight next morning, when they might surround
the cattle and drive a number of them into a pen or inclosure; others of
the party disliked this plan, and one of the boats returned to the ships.
Twelve men, with the other boat, remained, who hauled their boat dry up on
the beach, and went and took their lodgings for the night by the farm.
When the morning arrived, they found the people of the country had
collected, and saw about 40 armed men preparing to attack them. The
Buccaneers hastened as speedily as they could to the sea-side where they
had left their boat, and found her in flames. 'The Spaniards now thought
they had them secure, and some called to them to ask if they would be
pleased to walk to their plantations; to which never a word was answered.'
Fortunately for the Buccaneers, a rock appeared just above water at some
distance from the shore, and the way to it being fordable, they waded
thither. This served as a place of protection against the enemy, 'who only
now and then whistled a shot among them.' It was at about half ebb tide
when they took to the rock for refuge; on the return of the flood, the
rock became gradually covered. They had been in this situation seven
hours, when a boat arrived, sent from the ships in search of them. The
rise and fall of the tide here was eight feet perpendicular, and the tide
was still rising at the time the boat came to their relief; so that their
peril from the sea when on the rock was not less than it had been from the
Spaniards when they were on shore.
From _Caldera Bay_, they sailed for _Ria-lexa_. [Sidenote: Volcan Viejo.
Ria-lexa Harbour.] The coast near _Ria-lexa_ is rendered remarkable by a
high peaked mountain called _Volcan Viejo_ (the Old Volcano.) 'When the
mountain bears NE, ships may steer directly in for it, which course will
bring them to the harbour. Those that go thither must take the sea wind,
which is from the SSW, for there is no going in with the land wind. The
harbour is made by a low flat Island about a mile long and a quarter of a
mile broad, which lies about a mile and a half from the main-land. There
is a channel at each end of the Island: the West channel is the widest and
safest, yet at the NW point of the Island there is a shoal of which ships
must take heed, and when past the shoal must keep close to the Island on
account of a sandy point which strikes over from the main-land. This
harbour is capable of receiving 200 sail of ships. The best riding is near
the main-land, where the depth is seven or eight fathoms, clean hard sand.
Two creeks lead up to the town of _Ria-lexa_, which is two leagues distant
from the harbour[42].'
The Spaniards had erected breastworks and made other preparation in
expectation of such a visit as the present. The Buccaneers therefore
changed their intention, which had been to attack the town; and sailed on
for the _Gulf of Amapalla_.
[Sidenote: Bay of Amapalla.] 'The Bay or Gulf of _Amapalla_ runs eight or
ten leagues into the country. On the South side of its entrance is _Point
Casivina_, in latitude 12 deg. 40' N; and on the NW side is _Mount San
Miguel_. There are many Islands in this Gulf, all low except two, named
_Amapalla_ and _Mangera_, which are both high land. These are two miles
asunder, and between them is the best channel into the Gulf[43].'
The ships sailed into the _Gulf_ through the channel between _Point
Casivina_ and the Island _Mangera_. Davis went with two canoes before the
ships, and landed at a village on the Island _Mangera_. The inhabitants
kept at a distance, but a Spanish Friar and some Indians were taken, from
whom the Buccaneers learnt that there were two Indian towns or villages on
the _Island Amapalla_; upon which information they hastened to their
canoes, and made for that Island. On coming near, some among the
inhabitants called out to demand who they were, and what they came for.
Davis answered by an interpreter, that he and his men were Biscayners
sent by the King of _Spain_ to clear the sea of Pirates; and that their
business in _Amapalla Bay_, was to careen. No other Spaniard than the
Padre dwelt among these Indians, and only one among the Indians could
speak the Spanish language, who served as a kind of Secretary to the
Padre. The account the Buccaneers gave of themselves satisfied the
natives, and the Secretary said they were welcome. The principal town or
village of the Island _Amapalla_ stood on the top of a hill, and Davis and
his men, with the Friar at their head, marched thither.
At each of the towns on _Amapalla_, and also on _Mangera_, was a handsome
built church. The Spanish Padre officiated at all three, and gave
religious instruction to the natives in their own language. The Islands
were within the jurisdiction of the Governor of the Town of _San Miguel_,
which was at the foot of the _Mount_. 'I observed,' says Dampier, 'in all
the Indian towns under the Spanish Government, that the Images of the
Virgin Mary, and of other Saints with which all their churches are filled,
are painted of an Indian complexion, and partly in an Indian dress: but in
the towns which are inhabited chiefly by Spaniards, the Saints conform to
the Spanish garb and complexion.'
The ships anchored near the East side of the _Island Amapalla_, which is
the largest of the Islands, in 10 fathoms depth, clean hard sand. On other
Islands in the Bay were plantations of maize, with cattle, fowls,
plantains, and abundance of a plum-tree common in _Jamaica_, the fruit of
which Dampier calls the large hog plum. This fruit is oval, with a large
stone and little substance about it; pleasant enough in taste, but he says
he never saw one of these plums ripe that had not a maggot or two in it.
The Buccaneers helped themselves to cattle from an Island in the Bay which
was largely stocked, and which they were informed belonged to a Nunnery.
The natives willingly assisted them to take the cattle, and were content
on receiving small presents for their labour. The Buccaneers had no other
service to desire of these natives, and therefore it must have been from
levity and an ambition to give a specimen of their vocation, more than for
any advantage expected, that they planned to take the opportunity when the
inhabitants should be assembled in their church, to shut the church doors
upon them, the Buccaneers themselves say, 'to let the Indians know who we
were, and to make a bargain with them.' In executing this project, one of
the buccaneers being impatient at the leisurely movements of the
inhabitants, pushed one of them rather rudely, to hasten him into the
church; but the contrary effect was produced, for the native being
frightened, ran away, and all the rest taking alarm 'sprang out of the
church like deer.' As they fled, some of Davis's men fired at them as at
an enemy, and among other injury committed, the Indian Secretary was
killed.
Cowley relates their exploits here very briefly, but in the style of an
accomplished Gazette writer. He says, 'We set sail from _Realejo_ to the
_Gulf of St. Miguel_, where we took two Islands; one was inhabited by
Indians, and the other was well stored with cattle.'
[Sidenote: September. Davis and Eaton part Company.] Davis and Eaton here
broke off consortship. The cause of their separating was an unreasonable
claim of Davis's crew, who having the stouter and better ship, would not
agree that Eaton's men should share equally with themselves in the prizes
taken. Cowley at this time quitted Davis's ship, and entered with Eaton,
who sailed from the _Bay of Amapalla_ for the Peruvian coast. Davis also
sailed the same way on the day following (September the 3d), first
releasing the Priest of _Amapalla_; and with a feeling of remorse
something foreign to his profession, by way of atonement to the
inhabitants for the annoyance and mischief they had sustained from the
Buccaneers, he left them one of the prize vessels, with half a cargo of
flour.
[Sidenote: Tornadoes near the Coast of New Spain.] Davis sailed out of the
Gulf by the passage between the Islands _Amapalla_ and _Mangera_. In the
navigation towards the coast of _Peru_, they had the wind from the NNW and
West, except during tornadoes, of which they had one or more every day,
and whilst they lasted the wind generally blew from the South East; but as
soon as they were over, the wind settled again, in the NW. Tornadoes are
common near the _Bay of Panama_ from June to November, and at this time
were accompanied with much thunder, lightning, and rain.
[Sidenote: Cape San Francisco.] When they came to _Cape San Francisco_,
they found settled fair weather, and the wind at South. On the 20th, they
anchored by the East side of the _Island Plata_. The 21st, Eaton's ship
anchored near them. Eaton had been at the _Island Cocos_, and had lodged
on shore there 200 packages of flour.
[Sidenote: Eaton's Description of Cocos Island.] According to Eaton's
description, _Cocos Island_ is encompassed with rocks, 'which make it
almost inaccessible except at the NE end, where there is a small but
secure harbour; and a fine brook of fresh water runs there into the sea.
The middle of the Island is pretty high, and destitute of trees, but looks
green and pleasant with an herb by the Spaniards called _Gramadiel_. All
round the Island by the sea, the land is low, and there cocoa-nut trees
grow in great groves.'
[Sidenote: Coast of Peru.] At _La Plata_ they found only one small run of
fresh water, which was on the East side of the Island, and trickled slowly
down from the rocks. The Spaniards had recently destroyed the goats here,
that they might not serve as provision for the pirates. Small sea turtle
however were plentiful, as were men-of-war birds and boobies. The tide was
remarked to run strong at this part of the coast, the flood to the South.
Eaton and his crew would willingly have joined company again with Davis,
but Davis's men persisted in their unsociable claim to larger shares: the
two ships therefore, though designing alike to cruise on the coast of
_Peru_, sailed singly and separately, Eaton on the 22d, and Davis on the
day following.
[Sidenote: Point S^{ta} Elena.] Davis went to _Point S^{ta} Elena_. On its
West side is deep water and no anchorage. In the bay on the North side of
the Point is good anchorage, and about a mile within the Point was a small
Indian village, the inhabitants of which carried on a trade with pitch,
and salt made there. The _Point S^{ta} Elena_ is tolerably high, and
overgrown with thistles; but the land near it is sandy, low, and in parts
overflowed, without tree or grass, and without fresh water; but
water-melons grew there, large and very sweet. When the inhabitants of the
village wanted fresh water, they were obliged to fetch it from a river
called the _Colanche_, which is at the innermost part of the bay, four
leagues distant from their habitations. The buccaneers landed, and took
some natives prisoners. A small bark was lying in the bay at anchor, the
crew of which set fire to and abandoned her; but the buccaneers boarded
her in time to extinguish the fire. A general order had been given by the
Viceroy of _Peru_ to all ship-masters, that if they should be in danger of
being taken by pirates, they should set fire to their vessels and betake
themselves to their boats.
[Sidenote: Algatrane, a bituminous Earth.] The pitch, which was the
principal commodity produced at _S^{ta} Elena_, was supplied from a hot
spring, of which Dampier gives the following account. 'Not far from the
Indian village, and about five paces within high-water mark, a bituminous
matter boils out of a little hole in the earth. It is like thin tar; the
Spaniards call it _Algatrane_. By much boiling, it becomes hard like
pitch, and is used by the Spaniards instead of pitch. It boils up most at
high water, and the inhabitants save it in jars[44].'
[Sidenote: A rich Ship formerly wrecked on Point S^{ta} Elena.] A report
was current here among the Spaniards, 'that many years before, a rich
Spanish ship was driven ashore at _Point S^{ta} Elena_, for want of wind
to work her; that immediately after she struck, she heeled off to seaward,
and sunk in seven or eight fathoms water; and that no one ever attempted
to fish for her, because there falls in here a great high sea[45].'
[Sidenote: Manta.] Davis landed at a village named _Manta_, on the
main-land about three leagues Eastward of _Cape San Lorenzo_, and due
North of a high conical mountain called _Monte Christo_. The village was
on a small ascent, and between it and the sea was a spring of good water.
[Sidenote: Sunken Rocks near it.] 'About a mile and a half from the shore,
right opposite the village, is a rock which is very dangerous, because it
never appears above water, neither does the sea break upon it. A mile
within the rock is good anchorage in six, eight or ten fathoms, hard sand
and clear ground. [Sidenote: And Shoal.] A mile from the road on the West
side is a shoal which runs out a mile into the sea[46].'
The only booty made by landing at _Manta_, was the taking two old women
prisoners. From them however, the Buccaneers obtained intelligence that
many of their fraternity had lately crossed the _Isthmus_ from the _West
Indies_, and were at this time on the _South Sea_, without ships, cruising
about in canoes; and that it was on this account the Viceroy had given
orders for the destruction of the goats at the Island _Plata_.
[Sidenote: October. Davis is joined by other Buccaneers.] Whilst Davis and
his men, in the Batchelor's Delight, were lying at the Island _Plata_,
unsettled in their plans by the news they had received, they were, on
October the 2d, joined by the Cygnet, Captain Swan, and by a small bark
manned with a crew of buccaneers, both of which anchored in the road.
[Sidenote: The Cygnet, Captain Swan.] The Cygnet, as before noticed, was
fitted out from _London_ for the purpose of trade. She had put in at
_Baldivia_, where Swan, seeing the Spaniards suspicious of the visits of
strangers, gave out that he was bound to the _East Indies_, and that he
had endeavoured to go by the _Cape of Good Hope_; but that meeting there
with storms and unfavourable winds, and not being able to beat round that
_Cape_, he had changed his course and ran for the _Strait of Magalhanes_,
to sail by the _Pacific Ocean_ to _India_. This story was too improbable
to gain credit. Instead of finding a market at _Baldivia_, the Spaniards
there treated him and his people as enemies, by which he lost two men and
had several wounded. He afterwards tried the disposition of the Spaniards
to trade with him at other places, both in _Chili_ and _Peru_, but no
where met encouragement. He proceeded Northward for _New Spain_ still with
the same view; but near the _Gulf of Nicoya_ he fell in with some
buccaneers who had come over the _Isthmus_ and were in canoes; and his men
(Dampier says) forced him to receive them into his ship, and he was
afterwards prevailed on to join in their pursuits. Swan had to plead in
his excuse, the hostility of the Spaniards towards him at _Baldivia_.
These buccaneers with whom Swan associated, had for their commander Peter
Harris, a nephew of the Peter Harris who was killed in battle with the
Spaniards in the _Bay of Panama_, in 1680, when the Buccaneers were
commanded by Sawkins and Coxon. Swan stipulated with them that ten shares
of every prize should be set apart for the benefit of his owners, and
articles to that purport were drawn up and signed. Swan retained the
command of the Cygnet, with a crew increased by a number of the new
comers, for whose accommodation a large quantity of bulky goods belonging
to the merchants was thrown into the sea. Harris with others of the
buccaneers established themselves in a small bark they had taken.
On their meeting with Davis, there was much joy and congratulation on all
sides. They immediately agreed to keep together, and the separation of
Eaton's ship was now much regretted. They were still incommoded in Swan's
ship for want of room, therefore (the supercargoes giving consent)
whatever part of the cargo any of the crews desired to purchase, it was
sold to them upon trust; and more bulky goods were thrown overboard. Iron,
of which there was a large quantity, was kept for ballast; and the finer
goods, as silks, muslins, stockings, &c. were saved. [Sidenote: At Isle de
la Plata.] Whilst they continued at _La Plata_, Davis kept a small bark
out cruising, which brought in a ship from _Guayaquil_, laden with timber,
the master of which reported that great preparations were making at
_Callao_ to attack the pirates. This information made a re-union with
Eaton more earnestly desired, and a small bark manned with 20 men was
dispatched to search along the coast Southward as far as to the _Lobos
Isles_, with an invitation to him to join them again. The ships in the
mean time followed leisurely in the same direction.
[Sidenote: Cape Blanco, near Guayaquil; difficult to weather.] On the
30th, they were off the _Cape Blanco_ which is between _Payta_ and the
_Bay of Guayaquil_. Southerly winds prevail along the coast of _Peru_ and
_Chili_ much the greater part of the year; and Dampier remarks of this
_Cape Blanco_, that it was reckoned the most difficult to weather of any
headland along the coast, the wind generally blowing strong from SSW or
SbW, without being altered, as at other parts of the coast, by the land
winds. Yet it was held necessary here to beat up close in with the shore,
because (according to the accounts of Spanish seamen) 'on standing out to
sea, a current is found setting NW, which will carry a ship farther off
shore in two hours, than she can run in again in five.'
[Sidenote: November. Payta burnt.] November the 3d, the Buccaneers landed
at _Payta_ without opposition, the town being abandoned to them. They
found nothing of value, 'not so much as a meal of victuals being left
them.' The Governor would not pay ransom for the town, though he fed the
Buccaneers with hopes till the sixth day, when they set it on fire.
At most of the towns on the coast of _Peru_, the houses are built with
bricks made of earth and straw kneaded together and dried in the sun; many
houses have no roof other than mats laid upon rafters, for it never rains,
and they endeavour to fence only from the sun. From the want of moisture,
great part of the country near the coast will not produce timber, and most
of the stone they have, 'is so brittle that any one may rub it into sand
with their finger.'
_Payta_ had neither wood nor water, except what was carried thither. The
water was procured from a river about two leagues NNE of the town, where
was a small Indian village called _Colan_. [Sidenote: Part of the Peruvian
Coast where it never rains.] Dampier says, 'this dry country commences
Northward about _Cape Blanco_ (in about 4 deg. S latitude) whence it reaches
to latitude 30 deg. S, in which extent they have no rain that I could ever
observe or hear of.' In the Southern part of this tract however (according
to Wafer) they have great dews in the night, by which the vallies are
rendered fertile, and are well furnished with vegetables.
Eaton had been at _Payta_, where he burnt a large ship in the road, but
did not land. He put on shore there all his prisoners; from which
circumstance it was conjectured that he purposed to sail immediately for
the _East Indies_; and such proved to be the fact.
The vessel commanded by Harris, sailed badly, and was therefore quitted
and burnt. [Sidenote: Lobos de Tierra. Lobos de la Mar.] On the 14th, the
other Buccaneer vessels, under Davis, anchored near the NE end of _Lobos
de Tierra_, in four fathoms depth. They took here penguins, boobies, and
seals. On the 19th, they were at _Lobos de la Mar_, where they found a
letter left by the bark sent in search of Eaton, which gave information
that he had entirely departed from the American coast. The bark had sailed
for the Island _Plata_ expecting to rejoin the ships there.
[Sidenote: Eaton sails for the East Indies; Stops at the Ladrones.] Eaton
in his route to the _East Indies_ stopped at _Guahan_, one of the _Ladrone
Islands_, where himself and his crew acted towards the native Islanders
with the utmost barbarity, which Cowley relates as a subject of merriment.
On their first arrival at _Guahan_, Eaton sent a boat on shore to procure
refreshments; but the natives kept at a distance, believing his ship to be
one of the Manila galeons, and his people Spaniards. Eaton's men served
themselves with cocoa-nuts, but finding difficulty in climbing, they cut
the trees down to get at the fruit. The next time their boat went to the
shore, the Islanders attacked her, but were easily repulsed; and a number
of them killed. By this time the Spanish Governor was arrived at the part
of the Island near which the ship had anchored, and sent a letter
addressed to her Commander, written in four different languages, to wit,
in Spanish, French, Dutch, and Latin, to demand of what country she was,
and whence she came. Cowley says, 'Our Captain, thinking the French would
be welcomer than the English, returned answer we were French, fitted out
by private merchants to make fuller discovery of the world. The Governor
on this, invited the Captain to the shore, and at their first conference,
the Captain told him that the Indians had fallen upon his men, and that we
had killed some of them. He wished we had killed them all, and told us of
their rebellion, that they had killed eight Fathers, of sixteen which were
in a convent. He gave us leave to kill and take whatever we could find on
one half of the Island where the rebels lived. We then made wars with
these infidels, and went on shore every day, fetching provisions, and
firing upon them wherever we saw them, so that the greatest part of them
left the Island. The Indians sent two of their captains to us to treat of
peace, but we would not treat with them[47].'--'The whole land is a
garden. The Governor was the same man who detained Sir John Narbrough's
Lieutenant at _Baldivia_. Our Captain supplied him with four barrels of
gunpowder, and arms.'
Josef de Quiroga was at this time Governor at _Guahan_, who afterwards
conquered and unpeopled all the Northern Islands of the _Ladrones_.
Eaton's crew took some of the Islanders prisoners: three of them jumped
overboard to endeavour to escape. It was easy to retake them, as they had
been bound with their hands behind them; but Eaton's men pursued them with
the determined purpose to kill them, which they did in mere wantonness of
sport[48]. At another time, when they had so far come to an accommodation
with the Islanders as to admit of their approach, the ship's boat being on
shore fishing with the seine, some natives in canoes near her were
suspected of intending mischief. Cowley relates, 'our people that were in
the boat let go in amongst the thickest of them, and killed a great many
of their number.' It is possible that thus much might have been necessary
for safety; but Cowley proceeds, 'the others, seeing their mates fall, ran
away. Our other men which were on shore, meeting them, saluted them also
by making holes in their hides.'
From the _Ladrones_ Eaton sailed to the North of _Luconia_, and passed
through among the Islands which were afterwards named by Dampier the
_Bashee Islands_. The account given by Cowley is as follows: 'There being
half a point East variation, till we came to latitude 20 deg. 30' N, where we
fell in with a parcel of Islands lying to the Northward of _Luconia_. On
the 23d day of April, we sailed through between the second and third of
the Northernmost of them. We met with a very strong current, like the
_Race of Portland_. [Sidenote: Nutmeg Island, North of Luconia.] At the
third of the Northernmost Islands, we sent our boat on shore, where they
found abundance of nutmegs growing, but no people. They observed abundance
of rocks and foul ground near the shore, and saw many goats upon the
Island.'
Cowley concludes the narrative of his voyage with saying that he arrived
home safe to _England_ through the infinite mercy of God.
[Sidenote: Coast of Peru. Davis attempts Guayaquil. Slave Ships captured.]
To return to Edward Davis: At _Lobos de la Mar_, the Mosquito Indians
struck as much turtle as served all the crews. Shortly after, Davis made
an attempt to surprise _Guayaquil_, which miscarried through the cowardice
of one of his men, and the coldness of Swan to the enterprise. In the _Bay
of Guayaquil_ they captured four vessels; one of them laden with woollen
cloth of _Quito_ manufacture; the other three were ships coming out of the
_River of Guayaquil_ with cargoes of Negroes.
The number of Negroes in these vessels was a thousand, from among which
Davis and Swan chose each about fifteen, and let the vessels go. Dampier
entertained on this occasion different views from his companions. 'Never,'
says he, 'was put into the hands of men a greater opportunity to enrich
themselves. We had 1000 Negroes, all lusty young men and women, and we had
200 tons of flour stored up at the _Galapagos Islands_. With these Negroes
we might have gone and settled at _Santa Maria_ on the _Isthmus of
Darien_, and have employed them in getting gold out of the mines there.
All the Indians living in that neighbourhood were mortal enemies to the
Spaniards, were flushed by successes against them, and for several years
had been the fast friends of the privateers. Add to which, we should have
had the _North Sea_ open to us, and in a short time should have received
assistance from all parts of the _West Indies_. Many thousands of
Buccaneers from _Jamaica_ and the French Islands would have flocked to us;
and we should have been an overmatch for all the force the Spaniards could
have brought out of _Peru_ against us.'
The proposal to employ slaves in the mines leaves no cause to regret that
Dampier's plan was not adopted; but that was probably not an objection
with his companions. They naturally shrunk from an attempt which in the
execution would have required a regularity and order to which they were
unaccustomed, and not at all affected.
[Sidenote: Description of the Harbour of Guayaquil.] The Harbour of
_Guayaquil_ is the best formed port in _Peru_. In the river, three or four
miles short of the town, stands a low Island about a mile long, on either
side of which is a fair channel to pass up or down. The Western Channel is
the wildest: the other is as deep. 'From the upper part of the Island to
the town is about a league, and it is near as much from one side of the
river to the other. In that spacious place ships of the greatest burthen
may ride afloat; but the best place for ships is near that part of the
land on which the town stands. The country here is subject to great rains
and thick fogs, which render it very unwholesome and sickly, in the
vallies especially; _Guayaquil_ however is not so unhealthy as _Quito_ and
other towns inland; but the Northern part of Peru pays for the dry weather
which they have about _Lima_ and to the Southward.'
[Sidenote: Island S^{ta} Clara. Shoals near its North Side.] 'Ships bound
into the river of _Guayaquil_ pass on the South side of the Island _Santa
Clara_ to avoid shoals which are on the North side, whereon formerly ships
have been wrecked. A rich wreck lay on the North side of _Santa Clara_ not
far from the Island, and some plate which was in her was taken up: more
might have been saved but for the cat-fish which swarm hereabouts.
[Sidenote: Cat Fish.] 'The Cat-fish is much like a whiting; but the head
is flatter and bigger. It has a wide mouth, and certain small strings
pointing out on each side of it like cats' whiskers. It hath three fins;
one on the back, and one on either side. Each of these fins hath a sharp
bone which is very venemous if it strikes into a man's flesh. Some of the
Indians that adventured to search this wreck lost their lives, and others
the use of their limbs, by these fins. Some of the cat-fish weigh seven or
eight pounds; and in some places there are cat-fish which are none of them
bigger than a man's thumb; but their fins are all alike venemous. They are
most generally at the mouths of rivers (in the hot latitudes) or where
there is much mud and ooze. The bones in their bodies are not venemous,
and we never perceived any bad effect in eating the fish, which is very
sweet and wholesome meat[49].'
The 13th, Davis and Swan with their prizes sailed from the _Bay of
Guayaquil_ to the Island _Plata_, and found there the bark which had been
in quest of Eaton's ship.
From _Plata_, they sailed Northward towards the _Bay of Panama_, landing
at the villages along the coast to seek provisions. They were ill provided
with boats, which exposed them to danger in making descents, by their not
being able to land or bring off many men at one time; and they judged that
the best places for getting their wants in this respect supplied would be
in rivers of the Continent, in which the Spaniards had no settlement,
where from the native inhabitants they might obtain canoes by traffic or
purchase, if not otherwise. Dampier remarks that there were many such
unfrequented rivers in the Continent to the Northward of the _Isle de la
Plata_; and that from the Equinoctial to the _Gulf de San Miguel_ in the
_Bay of Panama_, which is above eight degrees of latitude, the coast was
not inhabited by the Spaniards, nor were the Indians who lived there in
any manner under their subjection, except at one part near the Island
_Gallo_, 'where on the banks of a Gold River or two, some Spaniards had
settled to find gold.'
[Sidenote: The Land Northward of Cape San Francisco. The Cotton Tree and
Cabbage Tree.] The land by the sea-coast to the North of _Cape San
Francisco_ is low and extremely woody; the trees are of extraordinary
height and bigness; and in this part of the coast are large and navigable
rivers. The white cotton-tree, which bears a very fine sort of cotton,
called silk cotton, is the largest tree in these woods; and the
cabbage-tree is the tallest. Dampier has given full descriptions of both.
He measured a cabbage-tree 120 feet in length, and some were longer. 'It
has no limbs nor boughs except at the head, where there are branches
something bigger than a man's arm. The cabbage-fruit shoots out in the
midst of these branches, invested or folded in leaves; and is as big as
the small of a man's leg, and a foot long. It is white as milk, and sweet
as a nut if eaten raw, and is very sweet and wholesome if boiled.'
[Sidenote: River of St. Jago.] The Buccaneers entered a river with their
boats, in or near latitude 2 deg. N, which Dampier, from some Spanish
pilot-book, calls the _River of St. Jago_. It was navigable some leagues
within the entrance, and seems to be the river marked with the name
_Patia_ in the late Spanish charts, a name which has allusion to spreading
branches.
Davis's men went six leagues up the river without seeing habitation or
people. They then came in sight of two small huts, the inhabitants of
which hurried into canoes with their household-stuff, and paddled upwards
against the stream faster than they could be pursued. More houses were
seen higher up; but the stream ran here so swift, that the Buccaneers
would not be at the labour of proceeding. [Sidenote: Island Gallo.] They
found in the two deserted huts, a hog, some fowls and plantains, which
they dressed on the spot, and after their meal returned to the ships,
which were at the _Island Gallo_.
'The Island _Gallo_ is clothed with timber, and here was a spring of good
water at the NE end, with good landing in a small sandy bay, and secure
riding in six or seven fathoms depth[50].'
[Sidenote: River Tomaco.] They entered with their boats another large
river, called the _Tomaco_, the entrance of which is but three leagues
from the _Island Gallo_. This river was shoal at the mouth, and navigable
for small vessels only. A little within, was a village called _Tomaco_,
some of the inhabitants of which they took prisoners, and carried off a
dozen jars of good wine.
[Sidenote: 1685. January.] On the 1st of January, they took a packet-boat
bound for _Lima_, which the President of _Panama_ had dispatched to hasten
the sailing of the Plate Fleet from _Callao_; the treasure sent from
_Peru_ and _Chili_ to _Old Spain_ being usually first collected at
_Panama_, and thence transported on mules to _Portobello_. The Buccaneers
judged that the _Pearl Islands_ in the _Bay of Panama_ would be the best
station they could occupy for intercepting ships from _Lima_.
On the 7th, they left _Gallo_, and pursued their course Northward. An
example occurs here of Buccaneer order and discipline. 'We weighed,' says
Dampier, 'before day, and all got out of the road except Captain Swan's
tender, which never budged; for the men were all asleep when we went out,
and the tide of flood coming on before they awoke, we were forced to stay
for them till the following tide.'
[Sidenote: Island Gorgona.] On the 8th, they took a vessel laden with
flour. The next day they anchored on the West side of the _Island
Gorgona_, in 38 fathoms depth clear ground, a quarter of a mile from the
shore. _Gorgona_ was uninhabited; and like _Gallo_ covered with trees. It
is pretty high, and remarkable by two saddles, or risings and fallings on
the top. It is about two leagues long, one broad, and is four leagues
distant from the mainland. It was well watered at this time with small
brooks issuing from the high land. At its West end is another small
Island. The tide rises and falls seven or eight feet; and at low water
shell-fish, as periwinkles, muscles, and oysters, may be taken. At
_Gorgona_ were small black monkeys. 'When the tide was out, the monkeys
would come down to the sea-shore for shell-fish. Their way was to take up
an oyster and lay it upon a stone, and with another stone to keep beating
of it till they broke the shell[51].' [Sidenote: Pearl Oysters.] The pearl
oyster was here in great plenty: they are flatter than other oysters, are
slimy, and taste copperish if eaten raw, but were thought good when
boiled. The Indians and Spaniards hang the meat of them on strings to dry.
'The pearl is found at the head of the oyster, between the meat and the
shell. Some have 20 or 30 small seed-pearl, some none at all, and some one
or two pretty large pearls. The inside of the shell is more glorious than
the pearl itself[52].'
[Sidenote: Bay of Panama. Galera Isle.] They put some of their prisoners
on shore at _Gorgona_, and sailed thence on the 13th, being six sail in
company; that is to say, Davis's ship, Swan's ship, three tenders, and
their last prize. The 21st, they arrived in the _Bay of Panama_, and
anchored at a small low and barren Island named _Galera_.
On the 25th, they went from _Galera_ to one of the Southern _Pearl
Islands_, where they lay the ships aground to clean, the rise and fall of
the sea at the spring tides being ten feet perpendicular. The small barks
were kept out cruising, and on the 31st, they brought in a vessel bound
for _Panama_ from _Lavelia_, a town on the West side of the _Bay_, laden
with Indian corn, salt beef, and fowls.
Notwithstanding it had been long reported that a fleet was fitting out in
_Peru_ to clear the _South Sea_ of pirates, the small force under Davis,
Swan, and Harris, amounting to little more than 250 men, remained several
weeks in uninterrupted possession of the _Bay of Panama_, blocking up
access to the city by sea, supplying themselves with provisions from the
Islands, and plundering whatsoever came in their way.
[Sidenote: The Pearl Islands.] The _Pearl Islands_ are woody, and the soil
rich. They are cultivated with plantations of rice, plantains, and
bananas, for the support of the City of _Panama_. Dampier says, 'Why they
are called the _Pearl Islands_ I cannot imagine, for I did never see one
pearl oyster about them, but of other oysters many. It is very pleasant
sailing here, having the mainland on one side, which appears in divers
forms, beautified with small hills clothed with woods always green and
flourishing; and on the other side, the _Pearl Islands_, which also make a
lovely prospect as you sail by them.'
The Buccaneers went daily in their canoes among the different Islands, to
fish, fowl, or hunt for guanoes. One man so employed and straggling from
his party, was surprised by the Spaniards, and carried to _Panama_.
[Sidenote: February.] In the middle of February, Davis, who appears to
have always directed their movements as the chief in command, went with
his ships and anchored near the City of _Panama_. He negociated with the
Governor an exchange of prisoners, and was glad by the release of forty
Spaniards to obtain the deliverance of two Buccaneers; one of them the
straggler just mentioned; the other, one of Harris's men.
A short time after this exchange, as the Buccaneer ships were at anchor
near the Island _Taboga_, which is about four leagues to the South of
_Panama_, they were visited by a Spaniard in a canoe, who pretended he was
a merchant and wanted to traffic with them privately. He proposed to come
off to the ships in the night with a small vessel laden with such goods as
the Buccaneers desired to purchase. This was agreed to, and he came with
his vessel when it was dark; but instead of a cargo of goods, she was
fitted up as a fire-ship with combustibles. The Buccaneers had suspected
his intention and were on their guard; but to ward off the mischief, were
obliged to cut from their anchors and set sail.
In the morning they returned to their anchorage, which they had scarcely
regained when a fresh cause of alarm occurred. Dampier relates, [Sidenote:
Arrival of fresh bodies of Buccaneers from the West Indies.] 'We were
striving to recover the anchors we had parted from, but the buoy-ropes,
being rotten, broke, and whilst we were puzzling about our anchors, we saw
a great many canoes full of men pass between the Island _Taboga_ and
another Island, which at first put us into a new consternation. We lay
still some time, till we saw they made directly towards us; upon which we
weighed and stood towards them. When we came within hail, we found that
they were English and French privateers just come from the _North Sea_
over the _Isthmus of Darien_. We presently came to an anchor again, and
all the canoes came on board.'
[Sidenote: Grogniet and L'Escuyer.] This new arrival of Buccaneers to the
_South Sea_ consisted of 200 Frenchmen and 80 Englishmen, commanded by two
Frenchmen named Grogniet and L'Escuyer. Grogniet had a commission to war
on the Spaniards from a French West-India Governor. The Englishmen of this
party upon joining Davis, were received into the ships of their
countrymen, and the largest of the prize vessels, which was a ship named
the San Rosario, was given to the Frenchmen.
From these new confederates it was learnt, that another party, consisting
of 180 Buccaneers, commanded by an Englishman named Townley, had crossed
the _Isthmus_, and were building canoes in the _Gulf de San Miguel_; on
which intelligence, it was determined to sail to that Gulf, that the whole
buccaneer force in this sea might be joined. Grogniet in return for the
ship given to the French Buccaneers, offered to Davis and Swan new
commissions from the Governor of _Petit Goave_, by whom he had been
furnished with spare commissions with blanks, to be filled up and disposed
of at his own discretion. Davis accepted Grogniet's present, 'having
before only an old commission which had belonged to Captain Tristian, and
which, being found in Tristian's ship when she was carried off by Cook,
had devolved as an inheritance to Davis.' The commissions which, by
whatever means, the Buccaneers procured, were not much protection in the
event of their falling into the hands of the Spaniards, unless the nation
of which the Buccaneer was a native happened to be then at war with
_Spain_. Instances were not uncommon in the _West Indies_ of the Spaniards
hanging up their buccaneer prisoners with their commissions about their
necks. But the commissions were allowed to be valid in the ports of other
powers. Swan however refused the one offered him, and rested his
justification on the orders he had received from the Duke of York; in
which he was directed, neither to give offence to the Spaniards, nor to
submit to receive affront from them: they had done him injury in killing
his men at _Baldivia_, and he held his orders to be a lawful commission to
do himself right.
[Sidenote: March. Townley and his Crew.] On the 3d of March, as they
approached the _Gulf de San Miguel_ to meet the Buccaneers under Townley,
they were again surprised by seeing two ships standing towards them. These
proved to be Townley and his men, in two prizes they had already taken,
one laden with flour, the other with wine, brandy, and sugar; both
designed for _Panama_. [Sidenote: Pisco Wine.] The wine came from _Pisco_,
'which place is famous for wine, and was contained in jars of seven or
eight gallons each. Ships which lade at _Pisco_ stow the jars one tier on
the top of another, so artificially that we could hardly do the like
without breaking them: yet they often carry in this manner 1500 or 2000,
or more, in a ship, and seldom break one.'
On this junction of the Buccaneers, they went altogether to the _Pearl
Islands_ to make arrangements, and to fit their prize vessels as well as
circumstances would admit, for their new occupation. Among the
preparations necessary to their equipment, it was not the last which
occurred, that the jars from _Pisco_ were wanted to contain their sea
stock of fresh water; for which service they were in a short time rendered
competent.
The 10th, they took a small bark in ballast, from _Guayaquil_. On the
12th, some Indians in a canoe came out of the River _Santa Maria_,
purposely to inform them that a large body of English and French
Buccaneers were then on their march over the _Isthmus_ from the _North
Sea_. This was not all; for on the 15th, one of the small barks which were
kept out cruising, fell in with a vessel in which were six Englishmen, who
were part of a crew of Buccaneers that had been six months in the _South
Sea_, under the command of a William Knight. These six men had been sent
in a canoe in chase of a vessel, which they came up with and took; but
they had chased out of sight of their own ship, and could not afterwards
find her. Davis gave the command of this vessel to Harris, who took
possession of her with a crew of his own followers, and he was sent to the
River _Santa Maria_ to look for the buccaneers, of whose coming the
Indians had given information.
This was the latter part of the dry season in the _Bay of Panama_.
Hitherto fresh water had been found in plenty at the _Pearl Islands_; but
the springs and rivulets were now dried up. The Buccaneers examined within
_Point Garachina_, but found no fresh water. [Sidenote: Port de Pinas.
25th. Taboga Isle.] They searched along the coast Southward, and on the
25th, at a narrow opening in the mainland with two small rocky Islands
before it, about seven leagues distant from _Point Garachina_, which
Dampier supposed to be _Port de Pinas_, they found a stream of good water
which ran into the sea; but the harbour was open to the SW, and a swell
set in, which rendered watering there difficult and hazardous: the fleet
(for they were nine sail in company) therefore stood for the Island
_Taboga_, 'where,' says Dampier, 'we were sure to find a supply.'
[Sidenote: April.] Their boats being sent before the ships, came
unexpectedly upon some of the inhabitants of _Panama_ who were loading a
canoe with plantains, and took them prisoners. One among these, a Mulatto,
had the imprudence to say he was in the fire-ship which had been sent in
the night to burn the Buccaneer ships; upon which, the Buccaneers
immediately hanged him.
They had chocolate, but no sugar; and all the kettles they possessed,
constantly kept boiling, were not sufficient to dress victuals for so many
men. Whilst the ships lay at _Taboga_, a detachment was sent to a
sugar-work on the mainland, from which they returned with sugar and three
coppers.
[Sidenote: More Buccaneers arrive.] On the 11th of April, they went from
_Tabogo_ to the _Pearl Islands_, and were there joined by the Flibustiers
and Buccaneers of whose coming they had been last apprised, consisting of
264 men, commanded by Frenchmen named Rose, Le Picard, and Des-marais. Le
Picard was a veteran who had served under Lolonois and Morgan. In this
party came Raveneau de Lussan, whose Journal is said to be the only one
kept by any of the French who were in this expedition.
Lussan's Narrative is written with much misplaced gaiety, which comes
early into notice, and shews him to have been, even whilst young and
unpractised in the occupation of a Buccaneer, of a disposition delighting
in cruelty. In the account of his journey overland from the _West Indies_,
he relates instances which he witnessed of the great dexterity of the
monkeys which inhabited the forests, and among others the following: '_Je
ne puis me souvenir sans rire de l'action que je vis faire a un de ces
animaux, auquel apres avoir tire plusieurs coups de fusil qui lui
emportoient une partie du ventre, en sorte que toutes ses tripes
sortoient; je le vis se tenir d'une de ses pates, ou mains si l'on veut, a
une branche d'arbre, tandis que de l'autre il ramassoit ses intestins
qu'il se refouroit dans ce qui lui restoit de ventre[53]._'
Ambrose Cowley and Raveneau de Lussan are well matched for comparison,
alike not only in their dispositions, but in their conceptions, which made
them imagine the recital of such actions would be read with delight.
The Buccaneers in the _Bay of Panama_ were now nearly a thousand strong,
and they held a consultation whether or not they should attack the city.
They had just before learnt from an intercepted packet that the Lima Fleet
was at sea, richly charged with treasure; and that it was composed of all
the naval force the Spaniards in _Peru_ had been able to collect: it was
therefore agreed not to attempt the city at the present, but to wait
patiently the arrival of the Spanish fleet, and give it battle. [Sidenote:
Chepo.] The only enterprise they undertook on the main-land in the mean
time, was against the town of _Chepo_, where they found neither opposition
nor plunder.
The small Island _Chepillo_ near the mouth of the river which leads to
_Chepo_, Dampier reckoned the most pleasant of all the Islands in the
_Bay of Panama_. 'It is low on the North side, and rises by a small ascent
towards the South side. The soil is yellow, a kind of clay. The low land
is planted with all sorts of delicate fruits.' The Islands in the Bay
being occupied by the Buccaneers, caused great scarcity of provision and
distress at _Panama_, much of the consumption in that city having usually
been supplied from the Islands, which on that account and for their
pleasantness were called the Gardens of _Panama_.
In this situation things remained till near the end of May, the Buccaneers
in daily expectation of seeing the fleet from _Lima_, of which it is now
time to speak.