CHAPTER XII

IN THE LOUISIANA CANEBRAKES

In October, 1907, I spent a fortnight in the canebrakes of northern

Louisiana, my hosts being Messrs. John M. Parker and John A. McIlhenny.

Surgeon-General Rixey, of the United States Navy, and Dr. Alexander

Lambert were with me. I was especially anxious to kill a bear in these

canebrakes after the fashion of the old Southern planters, who for a

century past have followed the bear with horse, hound and horn in

Louisiana, Mississippi and Arkansas.

Our first camp was on Tensas Bayou. This is in the heart of the great

alluvial bottom-land created during the countless ages through which the

mighty Mississippi has poured out of the heart of the continent. It is

in the black belt of the South, in which the negroes outnumber the

whites four or five to one, the disproportion in the region in which I

was actually hunting being far greater. There is no richer soil in all

the earth; and when, as will soon be the case, the chances of disaster

from flood are over, I believe the whole land will be cultivated and

densely peopled. At present the possibility of such flood is a terrible

deterrent to settlement, for when the Father of Waters breaks his

boundaries he turns the country for a breadth of eighty miles into one

broad river, the plantations throughout all this vast extent being from

five to twenty feet under water. Cotton is the staple industry, corn

also being grown, while there are a few rice fields and occasional small

patches of sugar cane. The plantations are for the most part of large

size and tilled by negro tenants for the white owners. Conditions are

still in some respects like those of the pioneer days. The magnificent

forest growth which covers the land is of little value because of the

difficulty in getting the trees to market, and the land is actually

worth more after the timber has been removed than before. In

consequence, the larger trees are often killed by girdling, where the

work of felling them would entail disproportionate cost and labor. At

dusk, with the sunset glimmering in the west, or in the brilliant

moonlight when the moon is full, the cotton fields have a strange

spectral look, with the dead trees raising aloft their naked branches.

The cotton fields themselves, when the bolls burst open, seem almost as

if whitened by snow; and the red and white flowers, interspersed among

the burst-open pods, make the whole field beautiful. The rambling

one-story houses, surrounded by outbuildings, have a picturesqueness all

their own; their very looks betoken the lavish, whole-hearted, generous

hospitality of the planters who dwell therein.

Beyond the end of cultivation towers the great forest. Wherever the

water stands in pools, and by the edges of the lakes and bayous, the

giant cypress looms aloft, rivalled in size by some of the red gums and

white oaks. In stature, in towering majesty, they are unsurpassed by any

trees of our eastern forests; lordlier kings of the green-leaved world

are not to be found until we reach the sequoias and redwoods of the

Sierras. Among them grow many other trees—hackberry, thorn, honey

locust, tupelo, pecan and ash. In the cypress sloughs the singular knees

of the trees stand two or three feet above the black ooze. Palmettos

grow thickly in places. The canebrakes stretch along the slight rises of

ground, often extending for miles, forming one of the most striking and

interesting features of the country. They choke out other growth, the

feathery, graceful canes standing tall, slender, serried, each but a few

inches from his brother, and springing to a height of fifteen or twenty

feet. They look like bamboos; they are well-nigh impenetrable for a man

on horseback; even on foot they make difficult walking unless free use

is made of the heavy bushknife. It is impossible to see through them for

more than fifteen or twenty paces, and often for not half that distance.

Bears make their lairs in them, and they are the refuge for hunted

things. Outside of them, in the swamp, bushes of many kinds grow thick

among the tall trees, and vines and creepers climb the trunks and hang

in trailing festoons from the branches. Here likewise the bushknife is

in constant play, as the skilled horsemen thread their way, often at a

gallop, in and out among the great tree trunks, and through the dense,

tangled, thorny undergrowth.

In the lakes and larger bayous we saw alligators and garfish; and

monstrous snapping turtles, fearsome brutes of the slime, as heavy as a

man, and with huge horny beaks that with a single snap could take off a

man’s hand or foot. One of the planters with us had lost part of his

hand by the bite of an alligator; and had seen a companion seized by the

foot by a huge garfish from which he was rescued with the utmost

difficulty by his fellow-swimmers. There were black bass in the waters

too, and they gave us many a good meal. Thick-bodied water moccasins,

foul and dangerous, kept near the water; and farther back in the swamp

we found and killed rattlesnakes and copperheads.

Coon and possum were very plentiful, and in the streams there were minks

and a few otters. Black squirrels barked in the tops of the tall trees

or descended to the ground to gather nuts or gnaw the shed deer

antlers—the latter a habit they shared with the wood rats. To me the

most interesting of the smaller mammals, however, were the swamp

rabbits, which are thoroughly amphibious in their habits, not only

swimming but diving, and taking to the water almost as freely as if they

were muskrats. They lived in the depths of the woods and beside the

lonely bayous.

Birds were plentiful. Mocking-birds abounded in the clearings, where,

among many sparrows of more common kind, I saw the painted finch, the

gaudily colored brother of our little indigo bunting, though at this

season his plumage was faded and dim. In the thick woods where we hunted

there were many cardinal birds and Carolina wrens, both in full song.

Thrashers were even more common; but so cautious that it was rather

difficult to see them, in spite of their incessant clucking and calling

and their occasional bursts of song. There were crowds of warblers and

vireos of many different kinds, evidently migrants from the north, and

generally silent. The most characteristic birds, however, were the

woodpeckers, of which there were seven or eight species, the commonest

around our camp being the handsome red-bellied, the brother of the

red-head which we saw in the clearings. The most notable birds and those

which most interested me were the great ivory-billed woodpeckers. Of

these I saw three, all of them in groves of giant cypress; their

brilliant white bills contrasted finely with the black of their general

plumage. They were noisy but wary, and they seemed to me to set off the

wildness of the swamp as much as any of the beasts of the chase. Among

the birds of prey the commonest were the barred owls, which I have never

elsewhere seen so plentiful. Their hooting and yelling were heard all

around us throughout the night, and once one of them hooted at intervals

for several minutes at midday. One of these owls had caught and was

devouring a snake in the late afternoon, while it was still daylight. In

the dark nights and still mornings and evenings their cries seemed

strange and unearthly, the long hoots varied by screeches, and by all

kinds of uncanny noises.

At our first camp our tents were pitched by the bayou. For four days the

weather was hot, with steaming rains; after that it grew cool and clear.

Huge biting flies, bigger than bees, attacked our horses; but the insect

plagues, so veritable a scourge in this country during the months of

warm weather, had well-nigh vanished in the first few weeks of the fall.

The morning after we reached camp we were joined by Ben Lilley, the

hunter, a spare, full-bearded man, with wild, gentle, blue eyes and a

frame of steel and whipcord. I never met any other man so indifferent to

fatigue and hardship. He equalled Cooper’s Deerslayer in woodcraft, in

hardihood, in simplicity—and also in loquacity. The morning he joined us

in camp, he had come on foot through the thick woods, followed by his

two dogs, and had neither eaten nor drunk for twenty-four hours; for he

did not like to drink the swamp water. It had rained hard throughout the

night and he had no shelter, no rubber coat, nothing but the clothes he

was wearing, and the ground was too wet for him to lie on; so he perched

in a crooked tree in the beating rain, much as if he had been a wild

turkey. But he was not in the least tired when he struck camp; and,

though he slept an hour after breakfast, it was chiefly because he had

nothing else to do, inasmuch as it was Sunday, on which day he never

hunted nor labored. He could run through the woods like a buck, was far

more enduring, and quite as indifferent to weather, though he was over

fifty years old. He had trapped and hunted throughout almost all the

half century of his life, and on trail of game he was as sure as his own

hounds. His observations on wild creatures were singularly close and

accurate. He was particularly fond of the chase of the bear, which he

followed by himself, with one or two dogs; often he would be on the

trail of his quarry for days at a time, lying down to sleep wherever

night overtook him, and he had killed over a hundred and twenty bears.

Late in the evening of the same day we were joined by two gentlemen to

whom we owed the success of our hunt: Messrs. Clive and Harley Metcalf,

planters from Mississippi, men in the prime of life, thorough woodsmen

and hunters, skilled marksmen, and utterly fearless horsemen. For a

quarter of a century they had hunted bear and deer with horse and hound,

and were masters of the art. They brought with them their pack of bear

hounds, only one, however, being a thoroughly staunch and seasoned

veteran. The pack was under the immediate control of a negro hunter,

Holt Collier, in his own way as remarkable a character as Ben Lilley. He

was a man of sixty and could neither read nor write, but he had all the

dignity of an African chief, and for half a century he had been a bear

hunter, having killed or assisted in killing over three thousand bears.

He had been born a slave on the Hinds plantation, his father, an old man

when he was born, having been the body servant and cook of “old General

Hinds,” as he called him, when the latter fought under Jackson at New

Orleans. When ten years old Holt had been taken on the horse behind his

young master, the Hinds of that day, on a bear hunt, when he killed his

first bear. In the Civil War he had not only followed his master to

battle as his body servant, but had acted under him as sharpshooter

against the Union soldiers. After the war he continued to stay with his

master until the latter died, and had then been adopted by the Metcalfs;

and he felt that he had brought them up, and treated them with that

mixture of affection and grumbling respect which an old nurse shows

toward the lad who has ceased being a child. The two Metcalfs and Holt

understood one another thoroughly, and understood their hounds and the

game their hounds followed almost as thoroughly.

[Illustration:

THE BEAR HUNTERS

From a photograph, copyright, 1907, by Alexander Lambert, M.D.

]

They had killed many deer and wildcat, and now and then a panther; but

their favorite game was the black bear, which, until within a very few

years, was extraordinarily plentiful in the swamps and canebrakes on

both sides of the lower Mississippi, and which is still found here and

there, although in greatly diminished numbers. In Louisiana and

Mississippi the bears go into their dens toward the end of January,

usually in hollow trees, often very high up in living trees, but often

also in great logs that lie rotting on the ground. They come forth

toward the end of April, the cubs having been born in the interval. At

this time the bears are nearly as fat, so my informants said, as when

they enter their dens in January; but they lose their fat very rapidly.

On first coming out in the spring they usually eat ash buds and the

tender young cane called mutton cane, and at that season they generally

refuse to eat the acorns even when they are plentiful. According to my

informants it is at this season that they are most apt to take to

killing stock, almost always the hogs which run wild or semi-wild in the

woods. They are very individual in their habits, however; many of them

never touch stock, while others, usually old he-bears, may kill numbers

of hogs; in one case an old he-bear began this hog-killing just as soon

as he left his den. In the summer months they find but little to eat,

and it is at this season that they are most industrious in hunting for

grubs, insects, frogs and small mammals. In some neighborhoods they do

not eat fish, while in other places, perhaps not far away, they not only

greedily eat dead fish, but will themselves kill fish if they can find

them in shallow pools left by the receding waters. As soon as the mast

is on the ground they begin to feed upon it, and when the acorns and

pecans are plentiful they eat nothing else; though at first berries of

all kinds and grapes are eaten also. When in November they have begun

only to eat the acorns they put on fat as no other wild animal does, and

by the end of December a full-grown bear may weigh at least twice as

much as it does in August, the difference being as great as between a

very fat and a lean hog. Old he-bears which in August weigh three

hundred pounds and upward will, toward the end of December, weigh six

hundred pounds, and even more in exceptional cases.

Bears vary greatly in their habits in different localities, in addition

to the individual variation among those of the same neighborhood. Around

Avery Island, John McIlhenny’s plantation, the bears only appear from

June to November; there they never kill hogs, but feed at first on corn

and then on sugar cane, doing immense damage in the fields, quite as

much as hogs would do. But when we were on the Tensas we visited a

family of settlers who lived right in the midst of the forest ten miles

from any neighbors; and although bears were plentiful around them they

never molested their corn fields—in which the coons, however, did great

damage.

A big bear is cunning, and is a dangerous fighter to the dogs. It is

only in exceptional cases, however, that these black bears, even when

wounded and at bay, are dangerous to men, in spite of their formidable

strength. Each of the hunters with whom I was camped had been charged by

one or two among the scores or hundreds of bears he had slain, but no

one of them had ever been injured, although they knew other men who had

been injured. Their immunity was due to their own skill and coolness;

for when the dogs were around the bear the hunter invariably ran close

in so as to kill the bear at once and save the pack. Each of the

Metcalfs had on one occasion killed a large bear with a knife, when the

hounds had seized it and the men dared not fire for fear of shooting one

of them. They had in their younger days hunted with a General Hamberlin,

a Mississippi planter whom they well knew, who was then already an old

man. He was passionately addicted to the chase of the bear, not only

because of the sport it afforded, but also in a certain way as a matter

of vengeance; for his father, also a keen bear-hunter, had been killed

by a bear. It was an old he, which he had wounded and which had been

bayed by the dogs; it attacked him, throwing him down and biting him so

severely that he died a couple of days later. This was in 1847. Mr. W.

H. Lambeth sends the following account of the fatal encounter:

“I send you an extract from the _Brother Jonathan_, published in New

York in 1847:

“‘Dr. Monroe Hamberlin, Robert Wilson, Joe Brazeil, and others left

Satartia, Miss., and in going up Big Sunflower River, met Mr. Leiser

and his party of hunters returning to Vicksburg. Mr. Leiser told Dr.

Hamberlin that he saw the largest bear track at the big Mound on

Lake George that he ever saw, and was afraid to tackle him. Dr.

Hamberlin said, “I never saw one that I was afraid to tackle.” Dr.

Hamberlin landed his skiff at the Mound and his dogs soon bayed the

bear. Dr. Hamberlin fired and the ball glanced on the bear’s head.

The bear caught him by the right thigh and tore all the flesh off.

He drew his knife and the bear crushed his right arm. He cheered the

dogs and they pulled the bear off. The bear whipped the dogs and

attacked him the third time, biting him in the hollow back of his

neck. Mr. Wilson came up and shot the bear dead on Dr. Hamberlin.

The party returned to Satartia, but Dr. Hamberlin told them to put

the bear in the skiff, that he would not leave without his

antagonist. The bear weighed 640 pounds.’

“Dr. Hamberlin lived three days. I knew all the parties. His son

John and myself hunted with them in 1843 and 1844, when we were too

small to carry a gun.”

A large bear is not afraid of dogs, and an old he, or a she with cubs,

is always on the lookout for a chance to catch and kill any dog that

comes near enough. While lean and in good running condition it is not an

easy matter to bring a bear to bay; but as they grow fat they become

steadily less able to run, and the young ones, and even occasionally a

full-grown she, will then readily tree. If a man is not near by, a big

bear that has become tired will treat the pack with whimsical

indifference. The Metcalfs recounted to me how they had once seen a

bear, which had been chased quite a time, evidently make up its mind

that it needed a rest and could afford to take it without much regard

for the hounds. The bear accordingly selected a small opening and lay

flat on its back with its nose and all its four legs extended. The dogs

surrounded it in frantic excitement, barking and baying, and gradually

coming in a ring very close up. The bear was watching, however, and

suddenly sat up with a jerk, frightening the dogs nearly into fits. Half

of them turned back somersaults in their panic, and all promptly gave

the bear ample room. The bear having looked about, lay flat on its back

again, and the pack gradually regaining courage once more closed in. At

first the bear, which was evidently reluctant to arise, kept them at a

distance by now and then thrusting an unexpected paw toward them; and

when they became too bold it sat up with a jump and once more put them

all to flight.

For several days we hunted perseveringly around this camp on the Tensas

Bayou, but without success. Deer abounded, but we could find no bears;

and of the deer we killed only what we actually needed for use in camp.

I killed one myself by a good shot, in which, however, I fear that the

element of luck played a considerable part. We had started as usual by

sunrise, to be gone all day; for we never counted upon returning to camp

before sunset. For an hour or two we threaded our way, first along an

indistinct trail, and then on an old disused road, the hardy

woods-horses keeping on a running walk without much regard to the

difficulties of the ground. The disused road lay right across a great

canebrake, and while some of the party went around the cane with the

dogs, the rest of us strung out along the road so as to get a shot at

any bear that might come across it. I was following Harley Metcalf, with

John McIlhenny and Dr. Rixey behind on the way to their posts, when we

heard in the far-off distance two of the younger hounds, evidently on

the trail of a deer. Almost immediately afterward a crash in the bushes

at our right hand and behind us made me turn around, and I saw a deer

running across the few feet of open space; and as I leaped from my horse

it disappeared in the cane. I am a rather deliberate shot, and under any

circumstances a rifle is not the best weapon for snap shooting, while

there is no kind of shooting more difficult than on running game in a

canebrake. Luck favored me in this instance, however, for there was a

spot a little ahead of where the deer entered in which the cane was

thinner, and I kept my rifle on its indistinct, shadowy outline until it

reached this spot; it then ran quartering away from me, which made my

shot much easier, although I could only catch its general outline

through the cane. But the 45–70 which I was using is a powerful gun and

shoots right through cane or bushes; and as soon as I pulled trigger the

deer, with a bleat, turned a tremendous somersault and was dead when we

reached it. I was not a little pleased that my bullet should have sped

so true when I was making my first shot in company with my hard-riding,

straight-shooting planter friends.

But no bears were to be found. We waited long hours on likely stands. We

rode around the canebrakes through the swampy jungle, or threaded our

way across them on trails cut by the heavy wood-knives of my companions;

but we found nothing. Until the trails were cut the canebrakes were

impenetrable to a horse and were difficult enough to a man on foot. On

going through them it seemed as if we must be in the tropics; the

silence, the stillness, the heat, and the obscurity, all combining to

give a certain eeriness to the task, as we chopped our winding way

slowly through the dense mass of close-growing, feather-fronded stalks.

Each of the hunters prided himself on his skill with the horn, which was

an essential adjunct of the hunt, used both to summon and control the

hounds, and for signalling among the hunters themselves. The tones of

many of the horns were full and musical; and it was pleasant to hear

them as they wailed to one another, backward and forward, across the

great stretches of lonely swamp and forest.

A few days convinced us that it was a waste of time to stay longer where

we were. Accordingly, early one morning we hunters started for a new

camp fifteen or twenty miles to the southward, on Bear Lake. We took the

hounds with us, and each man carried what he chose or could in his

saddle-pockets, while his slicker was on his horse’s back behind him.

Otherwise we took absolutely nothing in the way of supplies, and the

negroes with the tents and camp equipage were three days before they

overtook us. On our way down we were joined by Major Amacker and Dr.

Miller, with a small pack of cat hounds. These were good deer dogs, and

they ran down and killed on the ground a good-sized bobcat—a wildcat, as

it is called in the South. It was a male and weighed twenty-three and a

half pounds. It had just killed and eaten a large rabbit. The stomachs

of the deer we killed, by the way, contained acorns and leaves.

Our new camp was beautifully situated on the bold, steep bank of Bear

Lake—a tranquil stretch of water, part of an old river bed, a couple of

hundred yards broad with a winding length of several miles. Giant

cypress grew at the edge of the water; the singular cypress knees rising

in every direction round about, while at the bottoms of the trunks

themselves were often cavernous hollows opening beneath the surface of

water, some of them serving as dens for alligators. There was a waxing

moon, so that the nights were as beautiful as the days.

From our new camp we hunted as steadily as from the old. We saw bear

sign, but not much of it, and only one or two fresh tracks. One day the

hounds jumped a bear, probably a yearling from the way it ran; for at

this season a yearling or a two-year-old will run almost like a deer,

keeping to the thick cane as long as it can and then bolting across

through the bushes of the ordinary swamp land until it can reach another

canebrake. After a three hours’ run this particular animal managed to

get clear away without one of the hunters ever seeing it, and it ran

until all the dogs were tired out. A day or two afterward one of the

other members of the party shot a small yearling—that is, a bear which

would have been two years old in the following February. It was very

lean, weighing but fifty-five pounds. The finely chewed acorns in its

stomach showed that it was already beginning to find mast.

We had seen the tracks of an old she in the neighborhood, and the next

morning we started to hunt her out. I went with Clive Metcalf. We had

been joined overnight by Mr. Ichabod Osborn and his son Tom, two

Louisiana planters, with six or eight hounds—or rather bear dogs, for in

these packs most of the animals are of mixed blood, and, as with all

packs that are used in the genuine hunting of the wilderness, pedigree

counts for nothing as compared with steadiness, courage and

intelligence. There were only two of the new dogs that were really

staunch bear dogs. The father of Ichabod Osborn had taken up the

plantation upon which they were living in 1811, only a few years after

Louisiana became part of the United States, and young Osborn was now the

third in line from father to son who had steadily hunted bears in this

immediate neighborhood.

On reaching the cypress slough near which the tracks of the old she had

been seen the day before, Clive Metcalf and I separated from the others

and rode off at a lively pace between two of the canebrakes. After an

hour or two’s wait we heard, very far off, the notes of one of the

loudest-mouthed hounds, and instantly rode toward it, until we could

make out the babel of the pack. Some hard galloping brought us opposite

the point toward which they were heading,—for experienced hunters can

often tell the probable line of a bear’s flight, and the spots at which

it will break cover. But on this occasion the bear shied off from

leaving the thick cane and doubled back; and soon the hounds were once

more out of hearing, while we galloped desperately around the edge of

the cane. The tough woods-horses kept their feet like cats as they

leaped logs, plunged through bushes, and dodged in and out among the

tree trunks; and we had all we could do to prevent the vines from

lifting us out of the saddle, while the thorns tore our hands and faces.

Hither and thither we went, now at a trot, now at a run, now stopping to

listen for the pack. Occasionally we could hear the hounds, and then off

we would go racing through the forest toward the point toward which we

thought they were heading. Finally, after a couple of hours of this, we

came up on one side of a canebrake on the other side of which we could

hear, not only the pack, but the yelling and cheering of Harley Metcalf

and Tom Osborn and one or two of the negro hunters, all of whom were

trying to keep the dogs up to their work in the thick cane. Again we

rode ahead, and now in a few minutes were rewarded by hearing the

leading dogs come to bay in the thickest of the cover. Having galloped

as near to the spot as we could we threw ourselves off the horses and

plunged into the cane, trying to cause as little disturbance as

possible, but of course utterly unable to avoid making some noise.

Before we were within gunshot, however, we could tell by the sounds that

the bear had once again started, making what is called a “walking bay.”

Clive Metcalf, a finished bear-hunter, was speedily able to determine

what the bear’s probable course would be, and we stole through the cane

until we came to a spot near which he thought the quarry would pass.

Then we crouched down, I with my rifle at the ready. Nor did we have

long to wait. Peering through the thick-growing stalks I suddenly made

out the dim outline of the bear coming straight toward us; and

noiselessly I cocked and half-raised my rifle, waiting for a clearer

chance. In a few seconds it came; the bear turned almost broadside to

me, and walked forward very stiff-legged, almost as if on tiptoe, now

and then looking back at the nearest dogs. These were two in

number—Rowdy, a very deep-voiced hound, in the lead, and Queen, a

shrill-tongued brindled bitch, a little behind. Once or twice the bear

paused as she looked back at them, evidently hoping that they would come

so near that by a sudden race she could catch one of them. But they were

too wary.

[Illustration:

LISTENING FOR THE PACK

From a photograph, copyright, 1907, by Alexander Lambert, M.D.

]

All of this took but a few moments, and as I saw the bear quite

distinctly some twenty yards off, I fired for behind the shoulder.

Although I could see her outline, yet the cane was so thick that my

sight was on it and not on the bear itself. But I knew my bullet would

go true; and sure enough, at the crack of the rifle the bear stumbled

and fell forward, the bullet having passed through both lungs and out at

the opposite side. Immediately the dogs came running forward at full

speed, and we raced forward likewise lest the pack should receive

damage. The bear had but a minute or two to live, yet even in that time

more than one valuable hound might lose its life; when within half a

dozen steps of the black, angered beast, I fired again, breaking the

spine at the root of the neck; and down went the bear stark dead, slain

in the canebrake in true hunter fashion. One by one the hounds struggled

up and fell on their dead quarry, the noise of the worry filling the

air. Then we dragged the bear out to the edge of the cane, and my

companion wound his horn to summon the other hunters.

This was a big she-bear, very lean, and weighing two hundred and two

pounds. In her stomach were palmetto berries, beetles and a little

mutton cane, but chiefly acorns chewed up in a fine brown mass.

John McIlhenny had killed a she-bear about the size of this on his

plantation at Avery’s Island the previous June. Several bears had been

raiding his corn fields and one evening he determined to try to waylay

them. After dinner he left the ladies of his party on the gallery of his

house while he rode down in a hollow and concealed himself on the lower

side of the corn field. Before he had waited ten minutes a she-bear and

her cub came into the field. Then she rose on her hind legs, tearing

down an armful of ears of corn which she seemingly gave to the cub, and

then rose for another armful. McIlhenny shot her; tried in vain to catch

the cub; and rejoined the party on the veranda, having been absent but

one hour.

After the death of my bear I had only a couple of days left. We spent

them a long distance from camp, having to cross two bayous before we got

to the hunting grounds. I missed a shot at a deer, seeing little more

than the flicker of its white tail through the dense bushes; and the

pack caught and killed a very lean two-year-old bear weighing eighty

pounds. Near a beautiful pond called Panther Lake we found a deer-lick,

the ground not merely bare but furrowed into hollows by the tongues of

the countless generations of deer that had frequented the place. We also

passed a huge mound, the only hillock in the entire district; it was the

work of man, for it had been built in the unknown past by those unknown

people whom we call moundbuilders. On the trip, all told, we killed and

brought into camp three bears, six deer, a wildcat, a turkey, a possum,

and a dozen squirrels; and we ate everything except the wildcat.

In the evenings we sat around the blazing camp-fires, and, as always on

such occasions, each hunter told tales of his adventures and of the

strange feats and habits of the beasts of the wilderness. There had been

beaver all through this delta in the old days, and a very few are still

left in out-of-the-way places. One Sunday morning we saw two wolves, I

think young of the year, appear for a moment on the opposite side of the

bayou, but they vanished before we could shoot. All of our party had had

a good deal of experience with wolves. The Metcalfs had had many sheep

killed by them, the method of killing being invariably by a single bite

which tore open the throat while the wolf ran beside his victim. The

wolves also killed young hogs, but were very cautious about meddling

with an old sow; while one of the big half-wild boars that ranged free

through the woods had no fear of any number of wolves. Their endurance

and the extremely difficult nature of the country made it difficult to

hunt them, and the hunters all bore them a grudge, because if a hound

got lost in a region where wolves were at all plentiful they were almost

sure to find and kill him before he got home. They were fond of preying

on dogs, and at times would boldly kill the hounds right ahead of the

hunters. In one instance, while the dogs were following a bear and were

but a couple of hundred yards in front of the horsemen, a small party of

wolves got in on them and killed two. One of the Osborns, having a

valuable hound which was addicted to wandering in the woods, saved him

from the wolves by putting a bell on him. The wolves evidently suspected

a trap and would never go near the dog. On one occasion another of his

hounds got loose with a chain on, and they found him a day or two

afterward unharmed, his chain having become entangled in the branches of

a bush. One or two wolves had evidently walked around and around the

imprisoned dog, but the chain had awakened their suspicions and they had

not pounced on him. They had killed a yearling heifer a short time

before, on Osborn’s plantation, biting her in the hams. It has been my

experience that fox-hounds as a rule are afraid of attacking a wolf; but

all of my friends assured me that their dogs, if a sufficient number of

them were together, would tackle a wolf without hesitation; the packs,

however, were always composed, to the extent of at least half, of dogs

which, though part hound, were part shepherd or bull or some other

breed. Dr. Miller had hunted in Arkansas with a pack specially trained

after the wolf. There were twenty-eight of them all told, and on this

hunt they ran down and killed unassisted four full-grown wolves,

although some of the hounds were badly cut. None of my companions had

ever known of wolves actually molesting men, but Mr. Ichabod Osborn’s

son-in-law had a queer adventure with wolves while riding alone through

the woods one late afternoon. His horse acting nervously, he looked

about and saw that five wolves were coming toward him. One was a bitch,

the other four were males. They seemed to pay little heed to him, and he

shot one of the males, which crawled off. The next minute the bitch ran

straight toward him and was almost at his stirrup when he killed her.

The other three wolves, instead of running away, jumped to and fro

growling, with their hair bristling, and he killed two of them;

whereupon the survivor at last made off. He brought the scalps of the

three dead wolves home with him.

Near our first camp was the carcass of a deer, a yearling buck, which

had been killed by a cougar. When first found, the wounds on the carcass

showed that the deer had been killed by a bite in the neck at the back

of the head; but there were scratches on the rump as if the panther had

landed on its back. One of the negro hunters, Brutus Jackson, evidently

a trustworthy man, told me that he had twice seen cougars, each time

under unexpected conditions. Once he saw a bobcat race up a tree, and

riding toward it saw a panther reared up against the trunk. The panther

looked around at him quite calmly, and then retired in leisurely

fashion. Jackson went off to get some hounds, and when he returned two

hours afterward the bobcat was still up the tree, evidently so badly

scared that he did not wish to come down. The hounds were unable to

follow the cougar. On another occasion he heard a tremendous scuffle and

immediately afterward saw a big doe racing along with a small cougar

literally riding it. The cougar was biting the neck, but low down near

the shoulders; he was hanging on with his front paws, but was tearing

away with his hind claws so that the deer’s hair appeared to fill the

air. As soon as Jackson appeared the panther left the deer. He shot it,

and the doe galloped off, apparently without serious injury.

I wish those who see cougars kill game, or who come on game that they

have killed, would study and record the exact method employed in

killing. Mr. Hornaday sent me a photograph of a cougar killing a goat,

which he had seized high up on the back of the neck in his jaws, not

using his claws at all. I once found where one had killed a big buck by

seizing him by the throat; the claws also having evidently been used to

hold the buck in the struggle. Another time I found a colt which had

been killed by a bite in the neck; and yet another time a young doe

which had been killed by a bite in the head. In most cases where I came

across the carcasses of deer which had been killed by cougars they had

been partially eaten, and it was not possible to find out exactly how

they had been slain. In one instance at least the neck had been broken,

evidently in the struggle; but I could not tell whether this had been

done designedly, by the use of the forepaws. Twice hunters I have known

saw cougars seize mountain sheep, in each case by the throat. The

information furnished me inclines me to believe that most game is killed

by cougars in this fashion. Most of the carcasses of elk which had been

killed by cougars that I have examined showed fang marks round the

throat and neck; but one certainly did not, though it is possible in

this case that the elk died in some other way, and that the cougar had

merely been feeding on its dead body. But I have read of cases in which

elk and large deer were slain where the carcasses were said to have

shown wounds only on the flanks, and where the writers believed—with how

much justification I cannot say—that the wounds had been inflicted by

the claws. I should be surprised to find that such was the ordinary

method with cougars of killing game of any kind; but it is perhaps

unsafe to deny the possibility of such an occurrence without more

information than is at present available; especially in view of the

experience of Brutus Jackson, which I give above. In a letter to Mr.

Hornaday a New Mexican hunter, Mr. J. W. Carter, of Truchas, states that

cougars rip with their claws in killing game, and that, whether the

quarry is a horse, deer, or calf, the cougar begins to eat at the neck.

When at bay a cougar kills dogs by biting them, usually in the head; the

claws are used merely to scratch or rip, or to drag the dog within reach

of the jaws, and to hold it for the fatal bite.

Miss Velvin’s studies of dangerous wild beasts in captivity show that

the cougar is ordinarily more playful and less wantonly ferocious than

the big spotted cats; but that there is a wide individual variation

among cougars, a few being treacherous, bad-tempered and dangerous. Mr.

Bostock, the animal trainer, states that the cougar is as a rule rather

stupid and far less courageous or dangerous than the other big cats, the

proportion of vicious individuals being very small. He regards bears as

being very dangerous.

Mr. Charles Sheldon informs me that while on a ranch near Chihuahua he

at different times kept loose, as pets, a female cougar, three wolves,

and several coyotes, all taken when very young. All were exceedingly

tame and even affectionate, save at the moment of eating.

Mr. W. H. Wright, of Spokane, Wash., is a hunter of wide experience, and

has probably made as close a life study of the bear—particularly the

grizzly—as anyone now alive. In speaking to me, he dwells on its wide

variation in habits, not only as among individuals, but as between all

the individuals of one locality when compared with those of another.

Thus, in the Big Horn or the Teton Mountains if an animal is killed, he

has in his experience found that any grizzly within range is almost sure

to come to the carcass (and this has been my experience in the same

region). In the Bitter Roots, where the bears live largely on fish,

berries and roots, he found the chances just about even whether the

bears would or would not come; whereas in the Selkirks, he found that

the bears would very rarely pay any attention to a carcass, this being a

place where game is comparatively scarce and where there are no salmon,

so that the bears live exclusively as vegetarians, save for eating small

mammals or insects. In the Bitter Roots Mountains the bears used to live

chiefly on fish in the spring and early in the fall; in the summer they

fed to a large extent on the shooting star, which grows on all the

marshes and is one of the familiar plants of the region, but did not

touch either the dog-tooth violet or the spring beauty, both of which

have little tubers on the roots. But in the Kootenay country he found

that the bears dug up acres and acres of these very dog-tooth violets

and spring beauties for the sake of the bulbs on their roots; and that

they rarely or never touched the shooting stars. All this illustrates

the extreme care which should be taken in making observations and in

dogmatizing from insufficient data; and also the absolute necessity, if

a full and accurate natural history is to be written, of drawing upon

the experience of very many different observers—provided, of course,

that they are trustworthy observers.

For every one of our large beasts there should be at least one such work

as Lewis Morgan’s book on the beaver. The observations of many different

men, all accurate observers of wide experience, will be needed to make

any such book complete. Most hunters can now and then supply some

interesting experiences. Thus Gifford Pinchot and Harry Stimson, while

in the Montana Rockies last fall saw a she white goat beat off a war

eagle which had attacked her yearling young. The eagle swooped on the

yearling in most determined fashion; but the old she, rising on her hind

legs, caught the great bird fairly on her horns; and the eagle was too

roughly handled to repeat the onslaught. At nearly the same time, in

British Columbia, Senator Penrose and his brother were hunting bears.

The brother killed a yearling grizzly. While standing over the body, the

old she appeared and charged him. She took two bullets without

flinching, knocked him down, bit him severely, and would undoubtedly

have killed him had she not in the nick of time succumbed to her own

mortal wounds.

Recently there has appeared a capital series of observations on wolves

by a trained field naturalist, Mr. Vernon Bailey. These first-hand

studies of wolves in their natural haunts show, among other things,

that, unlike the male cougar, the male wolf remains with the female

while she is rearing her young litter and, at least sometimes, forages

for her and them. According to Mr. Bailey’s observations the female dens

remote from all other females, having a large number of pups in a

litter; but the following interesting letter shows that in exceptional

cases two females may den together or near by one another. It is written

to Mr. Phillips, the joint author, with W. T. Hornaday, of the admirable

“Camp-Fires in the Canadian Rockies,” a book as interesting and valuable

to the naturalist as to the hunter. The letter runs as follows:

“MEYERS FALLS, WASH., _Dec. 23, 1906_.

“_Mr. John M. Phillips, Pittsburg, Pa._

“FRIEND JACK: Your favor of the 18th inst. to hand, and was very

much pleased to hear you had called on the President and to know

that you take so much interest in the protection of Pennsylvania

game. It is a step in the right direction. In regard to wolves I

have hunted them a great deal when they had pups and do not think I

would exaggerate any to say that I had found one hundred dens and

had destroyed the young. Often would be able to kill the mother.

What you read in the East about the dog wolf helping to raise the

young is true. They stay together until the young is large enough to

go with them and they all kill their food together because they can

handle a large brute easier. I found once, in Wyoming, seventeen

wolf pups in one den, eight black ones and nine greys. One of the

females was also black and one grey, and both dogs were grey. One of

the dogs was the largest I ever seen, and had the biggest foot. He

made a track a third larger than any I ever saw. The old ones had

evidently just butchered and was feeding the little ones when I came

in sight about 400 yards away. I believe a wolf has got the quickest

eye of any animal living, and just as my head came up over the hill

the old ones all looked my way apparently at the same time. It was

too far to shoot so I thought I would pretend I did not see them and

just simply ride by. After riding some distance three of the old

ones began to move away and to my surprise the big fellow came over

to head me off. He was just on top of a bench about 100 feet high,

and I knew it would not do to get down to shoot as one jump would

take him out of sight so I cracked my heels and let my pony have

them in the abdomen and ran for the top of the hill, but was running

against the wind and when I reached the top my eyes was watering so

I could not kill him, but give him a close call as I got a lock of

his hair. I found another den the same spring (in 1899) and I got

eight pups and there was five old ones. They had to go some distance

to find horses and cattle and there was a plain trail that I could

follow at least five miles without snow. Colts seem to be their

favorite dish when they can get them.[6] Wolves mate in January and

have their pups in March, but found one den once in February. Have

known a few to have their young as late as April 1st. The pups grow

faster than our domestic animals and usually leave the dens in May.

I do not think the mother enters the den (after the pups get large

enough to come out) in order to suckle them, as you can call them

out by hiding and making a whining noise. For example, I set a No. 4

beaver trap in a hole where there was a lot of large pups and hid a

little way off and made a noise like the female when calling and

apparently they all started out at the same time and I caught two at

once in the same trap and of course each one thought the other was

biting his leg and I saw the most vicious scrap I ever seen out of

animals of their size. They just held on to one another like bull

dogs and apparently did not know I was around.

Footnote 6:

My own experience has been that wolves are more apt to kill cattle

than horses, whereas with cougars the reverse is true. It is

another instance of variability—doubtless both in the observed and

the observers. Wolves may seize an animal anywhere in a scuffle,

and a pack will literally tear a small deer to pieces; but when

one or two wolves attack a big animal, like a bull caribou, elk or

moose, or a horse or a steer, the killing or crippling wounds are

inflicted in the flanks, hams or throat. Very rarely an animal is

seized by the head. To any real naturalist or hunter, or indeed to

any competent observer, it is unnecessary to say that no wolf, and

no other wild beast, ever bites, or can by any possibility bite,

one of these large animals, like a horse, moose, or caribou, in

the heart; yet an occasional “nature fakir,” more than usually

reckless in his untruthfulness, will assert that such incidents do

happen; and, what is even more remarkable, uninformed people of

more than average credulity appear to believe the assertion.

“Wolves go a long way sometimes for their food. I have tracked them

twenty-five miles from where they made a killing before finding

their den. The old dog will sometimes go off alone but does not

often kill when by himself. Would just as soon have a male track as

a female to follow for if you will stay with it it is dead sure to

lead to a den and it is easy to distinguish the difference between

the two tracks if you are on to your job.

“Wishing you a Merry Xmas and a Happy New Year, I am,

“Your same old friend,

“R. M. NORBOE.”

Mr. Bailey is one of a number of faunal naturalists, who, together with

certain big game hunters who care more for natural history than for mere

slaughter, are doing invaluable work in preserving the records of

wilderness life. If Mr. George Shiras will put in book form his

noteworthy collection of photographs of game, and of other wild

creatures, and his numerous field notes thereon, he will render a real

and great service to all lovers of nature.

The most exciting and interesting hunting book that has recently

appeared deals with African big game. Many thrilling adventures with

lions have been recorded since the days when the Assyrian kings engraved

on stone their exploits in the chase; but the best lion stories that

have ever been written are those in Colonel Patterson’s “Maneaters of

Tsavo.”

It is now (January, 1908) nearly five years since my last trip to the

Yellowstone Park. General Samuel Young, who is now in charge of the

park, informs me that on the whole the game and the wild creatures

generally in the park have increased during this period. The antelope he

reports as being certainly three times as numerous as they were ten

years ago, and nearly twice as numerous as when I was out there. In the

town of Gardiner they graze freely in the streets; not only the

inhabitants but even the dogs recognizing them as friends. Their chief

foes are the coyotes. Last October four full-grown antelope were killed

by coyotes on the Gardiner and Yellowstone flats, and many fawns were

destroyed by them during the season. Practically all of the antelope in

the park herd on the Gardiner flat and round about during the winter,

and during the present winter there is a good supply of hay on this

flat, which is being used to feed the antelope, mountain sheep, deer and

elk. The sheep are increasing in numbers. Probably about two hundred of

them now exist in the park. There are probably one hundred whitetail and

one thousand blacktail deer, both of which species are likewise

increasing; and the moose, although few in numbers, are also on the

increase. General Young reports that from his best information he

believes there are 25,000 wapiti in the park. Of the buffalo there are

now in fenced pastures fifty-nine. These increase very slowly, the

number of calves being small. There are probably about twenty-five of

the original wild buffalo still alive. The bears are as numerous as

ever. Last summer it became necessary to kill one black and two

grizzlies that had become dangerous; for some individuals among the

bears grow insolent under good treatment. The mountain lions, which five

years ago were so destructive to the deer and sheep, have been almost

exterminated. The tracks show that one still exists. Coyotes are

numerous and very destructive to the antelope, although ninety-nine were

destroyed during the past year. Beaver are abundant and are increasing.

Altogether the American people are to be congratulated upon the success

of the Yellowstone Park, not only as a national pleasure ground, but as

a national reserve for keeping alive the great and beautiful wild

creatures of the wilderness.

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