THE LAST EVENING AT NAPLES

Yes, Laura! draw the shade aside

And let me gaze--while yet I may,

Upon that gently heaving tide,

Upon that glorious sun-lit bay.

Land of Romance! enchanting shore!

Fair scenes, near which I linger yet!

Never shall I behold ye more,

Never this last--last look forget!

What though the clouds that o'er me lour

Have tinged ye with a mournful hue,

Deep in my heart I felt your power,

And bless ye, while I sigh--Adieu!

_Velletri, March 13._--It is now a week since I opened my little book.

Ever since the 9th I have been seriously ill: and yesterday morning I

left Naples still low and much indisposed, but glad of a change which

should substitute any external excitement, however painful, to that

unutterable dying away of the heart and paralysis of the mind which I

have suffered for some days past. When we turned into the Strada

Chiaja, and I gave a last glance at the magnificent bay and the shores

all resplendent with golden light, I could almost have exclaimed like

Eve, "must I then leave thee, Paradise!" and dropped a few natural

tears--tears of weakness, rather than of grief: for what do I leave

behind me worthy one emotion of regret? Even at Naples, even in this

all-lovely land, "fit haunt for gods," has it not been with me as it

has been elsewhere? as long as the excitement of change and novelty

lasts, my heart can turn from itself "to luxuriate with indifferent

things:" but it cannot last long; and when it is over, I suffer, I am

ill: the past returns with tenfold gloom; interposing like a dark

shade between me and every object: an evil power seems to reside in

every thing I see, to torment me with painful associations, to perplex

my faculties, to irritate and mock me with the perception of what is

lost to me: the very sunshine sickens me, and I am forced to confess

myself weak and miserable as ever. O time! how slowly you move! how

little you can do for me! and how bitter is that sorrow which has no

relief to hope but from time alone!

Last night we reached Mola di Gaëta, which looked even more beautiful

than before, in the eyes of all but _one_, whose senses were blinded

and dulled by dejection, lassitude, and sickness. When I felt myself

passively led along the shore, placed where the eye might range at

freedom over the living and rejoicing landscape--when I heard myself

repeating mechanically the exclamations of others, and felt no ray of

beauty, no sense of pleasure penetrate to my heart--shall I own, even

to myself, the mixture of anguish and terror with which I shrunk back,

conscious of the waste within me? The conviction that now it was all

over, that the last and only pleasures hitherto left to me had

perished, that my mind was contracted by the selfishness of

despondency, and my quick spirit of enjoyment utterly subdued into

apathy, gave me for a moment a pang sharper than if a keen knife had

cut me to the quick; and then I relapsed into a kind of torpid languor

of mind and frame, which I thought was resignation, and as such

indulged it.

From my bed this morning I stepped out upon my balcony just as the sun

was rising. I wished to convince myself whether the beauty on which I

had lately looked with such admiration and delight, had indeed lost

all power to touch my heart. The impression made upon my mind at that

instant I can only compare to the rolling away of a palpable and

suffocating cloud: every thing on which I looked had the freshness and

brightness of novelty: a glory beyond its own was again diffused over

the enchanting scene from the stores of my own imagination: the sea

breeze which blew against my temples new-strung every nerve; and I

left Mola with a heart so lightened and so grateful, that not for

hours afterwards, not till fatigue and hurry had again wearied down my

spirits, did that impression of happy thankfulness pass away.

I am sensible I owed this sudden renovation of health solely to the

contemplation of Nature; and a true feeling for all the "maggior

pompa" she has poured forth over this glorious region. The shores of

Terracina, the azure sea, dancing in the breeze, the waves rolling to

our feet, the sublime cliffs, the fleet of forty sail stretching away

till lost in the blaze of the horizon, the Circean promontory, even

the picturesque fisherman, whom we saw throwing his nets from an

insulated rock at some distance from the shore, and whom a very

trifling exertion of fancy might have converted into some sea

divinity, a Glaucus, or a Proteus, formed altogether a picture of the

most wonderful and luxuriant beauty. In England there is a peculiar

charm in the soft aërial perspective, which even in the broadest glare

of noonday, blends and masses the forms of the distant landscape; and

in that mingling of colours into a cool neutral gray tint so grateful

to the eye. Hence it has happened that in some of the Italian pictures

I have seen in England, I have often been struck by what appeared to

me a violence in the colouring, and a sharp decision in the outline,

o'erstepping the modesty of nature--that is, of _English nature_: but

there is in this climate a prismatic splendour of tint, a glorious

all-embracing light, a vivid distinctness of outline, something in the

reality more gorgeous, glowing, and luxuriant, than poetry could dare

to express, or painting imitate.

"Ah that such beauty, varying in the light

Of living nature, cannot be portrayed

By words, nor by the pencil's silent skill;

But is the property of those alone

Who have beheld it, noted it with care,

And in their minds recorded it with love."

The Diary of an Ennuyée · 第 24 / 35 题