CONTENTS—The “Big Bay”—Musketoe Bay—Mohawk Bay—Hay Bay—“Eastern
Bay”—Site of Ancient Kentes—The Name—Old Families—An Accident,
1819—Eighteen Drowned—Extract from Playter—Searching for the
Bodies—Burying the Dead—Picton Bay—Appearance—The “Grand Bay”—
Upper Gap—Lower Gap—Kingston Bay—A Picture—Recollections—A
Contrast—Ship Yards—Extract from Cooper—Inland Lakes.
THE SEVERAL BAYS.
In looking at the main channel, we have mentioned several indentations,
which have, from their size, received distinct names. We will now
examine these more particularly.
About twenty miles from the Carrying Place, and eight miles east of
Belleville, is _Big Bay_, meaning, originally the big part of the Bay.
As before stated, its size does not appear so well marked as it
otherwise would, from the existence of a large island which lies in the
south part of the Bay, and which is, seemingly a part of the main land.
To the north is a small bay, where the Salmon River empties. Between
Mississauga point, which forms the western boundary of Big Bay, and
Huff’s Island, is another inlet from Big Bay, which is called by the
inhabitants _Musketoe Bay_, or sometimes, erroneously, “Miscouter” Bay.
It is, mainly, but a marsh, in which the Muskrat finds a home, the wild
duck a safe retreat, and where myriads of musketoe may, in their season,
be found. This last mentioned fact explains the origin of the name. It
is stated that, before the adjacent land was cleared, the swarms of
insects was so thick as to actually cloud the air.
At the junction of the western and middle portions of the Bay is the
_Mohawk Bay_. This name is derived from the residence here of the Mohawk
Indians, who came in 1784, and consequently is of no older date than the
settlement of Upper Canada. The original name was _Ganeious_. The Bay is
about five miles in length, and a mile wide at its mouth; it gradually
lessens until it forms the mouth of the Napanee river. In summer the
scenery along this Bay is very agreeable, and in some places really
beautiful. The second flouring mill having been built in 1785, Mohawk
Bay and the Napanee River were well known by early settlers, and along
these shores, now well cultivated fields, there have passed many a time
the batteau laden with grain, or the canoe with a bag of gristing; or
along the shore trudged the pioneer with a bushel of corn on his back,
or in winter hauled it upon a hand sleigh.
HAY BAY.—From the entrance of Mohawk Bay southward, along the reach
about seven miles, is another inlet. This is _Hay Bay_, and, by far, the
largest of the several Bays. By looking at the map, it will be seen that
this indentation is somewhat divided into two almost equal portions by a
narrow channel; and that the eastern part is considerably broader than
the western. This narrow channel was originally called, according to an
old map of Fredericksburg, dated 1784, the “Long Reach,” and the east
end, the “Eastern Bay.” This was then regarded as the real end of the
Bay Quinté. The “North Channel,” leading to the Mohawk settlement, was
but little known, and not taken into consideration. It must be
remembered that the names originally given to the several portions of
the Bay were such as the circumstances of the settlers would be likely
to suggest. The soldiers who settled on the front of the third township
soon learned that in the rear was a Bay, by which they could reach the
back concessions. Some crossed the peninsula, while others reached their
lots by making a circuit of the Fourth Town shore. The distance to them
as they toiled in the batteaux, seemed a long stretch, and hence it was
called the “Long Reach,” while the wider portion, at the end of the Bay
was named Eastern Bay, or the most eastern bay. Here, as we have seen,
dwelt the ancient Kentes. The name of Hay Bay must have been given to
this sheet of water about 1786. In the absence of any certain knowledge
of the origin of the name, we have concluded that it was so called, out
of respect to his memory, after Lieut.-Governor Hay, who died at
Detroit, 29th August, 1785, “after twenty-nine years service.” This was
the year previous to the time of the first settlers locating here. The
name was, most likely, given by the Surveyor, who, in accordance with
the custom, named everything after some influential or prominent person,
or friend. While advancing this theory of the origin of the name, we
must not omit to mention, that when the country was opened up there was,
growing in some places upon the bay shore, wild hay. This may possibly
have given rise to the name; or the name may have been taken from Chief
Justice Hay. Hay Bay, although possessing no particular features of
beauty, has a charm peculiarly its own, as being the original Kente Bay.
It is not wanting in historic interest. Along its shores, now so
fertile, for long years existed abundant game; a fact well known to all
the neighboring tribes. Although no settler took up land here until
1786, there were among them individuals who took no unimportant part in
the war against rebellion. Upon the south shore lived and died some
families who acted more than ordinarily venturesome parts during the
contest, as the Huycks, Miss Loyst, who married a Diamond, and whose two
brothers were with Sir John Johnson at Hungry Bay. Here settled three
Embury’s, David on the north shore, who was brother of Philip Embury,
the first Methodist Preacher in America. On the south side lived Andrew,
and John Embury, and the first family of the Bogarts of Canada,
descendants of the first Moravian minister, to America. Also, here lived
Judge Fisher, Squire Beegle, James Knox, the first Quaker Preacher in
Canada. Upon the north bank, while the colony was yet in its infant
days, was committed, probably, the first act of suicide in the country.
An event even yet remembered by some. And, more than all, it was upon
these waters where occurred an accident, which filled the whole Bay
country with horror; and awakened emotions of the keenest sympathy,
which produced an impression throughout the whole Province, exceeded
only by the loss of the schooner “Speedy,” with all on board.
The accident on Hay Bay took place on a Sunday morning, 20th August,
1819. On the south shore of the bay, in the Methodist meeting-house, was
this day a Quarterly Meeting. Quarterly meetings, in the early days of
the country, were always largely attended, persons coming from a
considerable distance. On this occasion there were present many from the
adjacent townships. Not a few came from the banks of the Napanee. Those
living to the north of the bay had to cross to the place of meeting by
boat. It was a bright sunny Sabbath morning, and already had many
crossed and were joining in the religious services, when there put off
from the north shore, a short distance from Casey’s Point, a boat load,
consisting of eighteen young men and women, most of whom lived along the
bay. They were all dressed in good and modest apparel as befitted the
day, and the house and worship of God. Buoyant with the cheerfulness of
youth, and the emotions of piety, they sang as they stepped into the
boat, and as they made progress to the other shore. The boat being
rather leaky, and so many, pressing it too near the water’s edge, the
water came in and increased fast, and they had no vessel to bail with.
Unhappily, the young men did not think of bailing with their clean hats,
or did not like to do so, until it was too late. The boat filled and
sank, when near the other shore, and these eighteen young men and women,
crying and shrieking, went down into the deep water. At the time of
crossing, there was a prayer meeting proceeding in the chapel. One of
those present was now engaged in prayer, and had just uttered the
petition that “it might be a day long to be remembered,” when a shriek
was heard, another, and another. The prayer was stopped, and some ran up
to the pulpit to look out, and saw the youths struggling in the water.
All ran to the shore, and some plunged in to render assistance. Eight
were taken to the shore. Ten bodies were yet in the water. A seine was
prepared, and so the bodies of these unhappy youths, a few hours ago so
blythe and cheerful were brought dripping to the land. One was not
recovered till the next morning. Two young men were drowned, and eight
young women. Two were of the German family, two Detlors, one Bogart, one
Roblin, one McCoy, one Clark, one Madden, and one Cole. The grief of the
families, so suddenly bereaved, gathered together on the shore, gazing
at the loved bodies, may be better imagined than described. The grief,
too, was shared by the large congregation assembled, and by the
minister. No public worship was attended to, but preparations for the
solemn funeral.
Monday was a day of mourning. News of the disaster soon spread far, and
a great congregation was assembled. Nine coffins were laid in order
outside the chapel. One of the corpses was buried in another graveyard.
Mr. Puffer took for the text, Job xix. 25–27, “I know that my Redeemer
liveth,” &c. He stood at the door and tried to preach to those within
and without, but was so affected by the catastrophe, the weeping
congregation, and the coffined dead before him, that he confessed he
could not do justice to the subject, or the occasion. But he offered
consolation from the gospel to the stricken families mourning. Next, the
coffins of the youthful dead were opened, that friends and neighbours,
and young acquaintances, might take a last look and farewell. Six of the
graves were in rotation, and the coffins were placed in the same manner.
The others were near departed friends in other parts of the ground.
After the reading of the burial service, the graves, one after another,
received the dead, and then were closed up again, until the day when
“the trumpet shall sound, and the dead shall be raised incorruptible.”—
(Playter).
The writer has often heard his father relate the touching circumstances
here told. He was then at home, his father being a resident of the south
shore, and was an eye witness of the scene. His father’s steelyards were
used, the hooks being attached to a pole, to grapple for the bodies.
PICTON BAY.—Where the eastern portion of the Bay Quinté and the Long
Reach unite, the waters are comparatively wide. This was at the first
called the _Grand Bay_. The south side of the Grand Bay forms the mouth
of Picton Bay, which stretches southward some five miles, and which has
at its head the town of Picton, after which the bay has been named.
The view presented upon passing up this indentation of the Bay, and as
well in returning, and looking up the long reach, is one of the most
attractive perhaps in all Canada. As the tourist approaches the head of
the Bay he will be struck with the extraordinary beauty. To the left are
two picturesque buildings, one the Ontario College. Rising up
majestically at the very head of the Bay, is an almost precipitous
mountain, whose gray sides, and wood-crowned summit, gives a grand,
though sombre appearance. Nothing seems to be wanting but the crumbling
walls of an old castle to make the picture complete.
When the refugees first came to the Bay, the inlet, now called Picton
Bay, was regarded with some degree of aversion. The high barren-looking
shores, covered with dwarf firs and cedars, offered no inducements to
the settler. During the first two or three years a party of three or
four ascended to the head of the Bay, but observing the thick cedars and
firs on either hand, and withal suffering much from the musketoes, they
returned and reported that no man could ever inhabit it, that it was fit
only for the musketoe. But before many years the Congers, the Johnsons,
Washburns and Steeles, had taken up their abode here.
We have seen that this Bay constituted a part of an Indian route from
the west to the south shores of Ontario.
To the east of “Grand Bay,” the peninsula of Adolphustown is indented by
two bays.
Between the extremity of Prince Edward Peninsula and Amherst Island,
where Lake Ontario joins the Bay, at a point which formerly was regarded
as the mouth of the Bay of Quinté, is a space nearly a mile. This is
called the _Upper Gap_. Between the eastern end of Amherst and Grape
Island is the _Lower Gap_ which is something more than a mile wide.
Directly to the north of the east end of Amherst Island, upon the coast
of Ernesttown is an indentation where empties a small stream, this is
called _Collins’ Bay_, after Deputy Surveyor Collins.
The only remaining bay of which we shall specially speak, is the
Kingston Bay.
Perhaps no piece of water can be found in Western Canada possessed of
more natural beauty than the Bay of Kingston, during the season of
navigation by water. Whether one enters it from the Great Lake with its
rough swell, or the quiet waters of Quinté, or the bright St. Lawrence,
whose waters are beautiful with a thousand isles; or whether he gazes
from the curving shore at the City’s front; or from the Cataraqui
Bridge; or instead, takes his stand at the point of Frederick or Fort
Henry, there is spread out the same pleasing view; one upon which the
eye can long gaze with admiration. Encircled by a border of green clad
islands, with the massive city upon one side, the waters of the harbour
are peaceful and secure. The former beauties such as Champlain and
Frontenac looked upon, have passed away. There is less of the natural
beauty entering now into the view, but art has taken the place. The
barracks at the _Tête du Pont_, the buildings at Navy Yard, the strong
fort, the warlike martello towers, and the city of solid stone, give a
different, but yet a pleasing picture. Kingston Bay affords a safe place
for boating in summer, and in winter, its coating of ice is the theatre
of attraction for the joyous skater.
Respecting the events which have come to pass by the Bay of Kingston in
the early history of the country, the reader is referred to the history
of Kingston. We will only add that the “ship-yards and marine railways
at Kingston, Garden Island, and Portsmouth, have launched on the inland
seas the greatest in number and largest of tonnage of Canadian vessels
in Canada West; Kingston being second only to Quebec in the extent of
its ship-building.”
Here in 1814 was built the three decked ship of war “_Saint Lawrence_,”
at a cost of £500,000. The chief cause of this enormous cost was the
expense of transportation of stores and equipments from Montreal. In
1853, the aggregate tonnage of the vessels built at the ship-yard in
Kingston alone, apart from those built at Portsmouth and Garden Island,
amounted to 2,500 tons; the cost of these vessels was £26,000, of which
£14,000 was paid for labor.
We will here introduce an interesting notice of the several lakes lying
north of the Bay in the adjacent townships, from Cooper. “Through the
whole tract of country lying north of the Township of Kingston, and in
these and the neighbouring counties, are a multitude of lakes of various
sizes, from that of a mere pond up to that of a lake twenty miles in
extent. The water of these lakes is extremely pure and clear, and they
are furnished with abundance of fish; they are mostly connected by
streams of water, and are navigable, and the streams are capable of
floating canoes or small boats. Through these lakes and streams are
annually floated immense quantities of lumber and timber, and in the
absence of the roads now in course of construction, they have been the
highway to the city from many a fine farm on their banks. Around them,
in some places, the land is much broken, rocky and waste, but between
such broken and rough tracts are lands of great richness and fertility,
and of the first quality. The scenery throughout this tract of country,
and in the neighbourhood of these lakes and rivers is extremely
picturesque, and in many places even grand, varied with rock, valley,
streamlets and wood. When as the country gets older, localities are
sought not only with regard to their flat unvaried richness of soil, but
with some consideration of their beauty of location and scenic charms;
there is little doubt that many a romantic glen here will have its
accompanying cottage, hamlet or mansion, and that many a pretty
homestead will be empowered among these woods and water-falls; even now,
many a good farm is being brought under cultivation in these parts. If
any surpass the rest in picturesque beauty, we should incline to give
the palm to Buck Lake and its vicinity. The neighbourhood of these lakes
abound in deer.”
CHAPTER XLVa.
CONTENTS—Islands—Possessed by Indians—The “Thousand Islands”—
Carleton Island—History of Island—During the rebellion—Wolfe
Island—The name—Howe Island—Old name—County of Ontario—Garden
Island—Horseshoe Island—Sir Jeffry Amherst—The size—Indian name—
“Tontine”—Johnson’s Island—The Island won—Present owner—First
settler—The three brothers—Small Islands—Hare Island—Nut Island—
Wappoose Island—Indian rendezvous—Captain John’s Island—Bartering—
Hunger Island—Big Island—First settlers—Huff’s Island—Paul Huff—
Grape Island—Hog Island—Smaller Islands—Mississauga Island—A
tradition—The Carrying Place—Its course—Original survey—History—
American prisoners—Col. Wilkins.
THE ISLANDS OF BAY QUINTÉ.
The reader who has kindly followed us thus far in examining the bay, and
its several coves, or indentations, is invited to accompany us once more
along its course, and note the several islands which stud its bosom.
They are not numerous; but the numerous points all along, as well as the
turns in the bay recompense any lack arising from the absence of
islands.
When the Mississauga Indians ceded the land along the bay to the British
Government, they reserved certain points of land, and mostly all the
islands between the head of the bay and Gananoque. Those excepted were
Grenadier Island, and the small islands between it and Kingston, and
Amherst Island.
The islands of the St. Lawrence are famed almost the world over, they
are called the “Thousand Islands.” But Howison says, that the
commissioners appointed to fix the limits between Canada and the United
States, counted the islands of the St. Lawrence and found there were
1692. The islands below Gananoque belonged to the Iroquois.
CARLETON ISLAND.—The first island is Carleton Island, called by the
French the island of Chevreux, Goat’s Island; situated between the
American shore of the St. Lawrence, and Wolf Island. It was a military
and naval station during the American rebellion, at which government
vessels were built for navigating the lake, and possessed
fortifications. Its name is derived from Guy Carleton, Esq., “his
Majesty’s Captain-General and Governor-in-chief, and over his Majesty’s
province of Quebec, afterward Lord Dorchester.” This military post, as
we have seen, afforded a retreat for the refugees, who fled from the
Mohawk valley. Says the Rev. William Mcaulay, “Jay’s treaty of peace, as
it was called, in 1783, found Carleton Island occupied by the 84th
Regiment, a body of Highlanders levied in the Carolinas, and
subsequently adopted into the line.” Upon the erection of the northern
line of the United States, Carleton Island came within the boundary of
the State of New York. But it continued in common with other military
posts, in possession of the British, until 1796. Indeed, according to
the gentleman whose words we have quoted above, it remained in
possession of the British until 1812, when the Americans crossed and
seized a sergeant’s guard stationed there. It would seem that parties
entering Canada were required to procure a passport here. A copy of one,
extracted from the history of Dundas, is as follows, directed “To whom
concerned.”
“Permit the boat going from this to pass to Kingston with their
provisions, family, clothing, bedding, household furniture, and farming
utensils, they having cleared out at this post, as appears by their
names in the margin. (John Loucks, two men, two women, three
children).”—Signed “C. McDonell, P. O.”
Among the refugees here during the war was Mr. Mcaulay. In 1776,
Sergeant Major Clark, of the 8th, or King’s Own Regiment, was appointed
clerk and naval store keeper at Carleton Island, where he remained till
1790. This was father of the late Colonel Clark, of Dalhousie. For
further particulars of Carleton Island the reader is referred to the
history of Kingston.
WOLFE ISLAND.—This is a considerable island, 25 miles long, stretching
along near the American shore, directly opposite Kingston. It contains
28,129 acres of good land. The name is found often spelled wolf, leading
us to infer that it is derived from the presence of that animal upon the
island at some time. But it is no doubt after General Wolfe, who fell at
Quebec. The original Indian name, as given in the document conferring a
seigniory at Cataraqui upon La Salle, including this and Amherst Island,
was _Ganounkouesnot_. The French called it the _Grande Island_, and
Simcoe in his proclamation 1792, directed it to be called Wolfe Island.
Mr. Detlor says that “it would seem the greater part of Wolfe Island was
granted to the heirs of Sir William Johnson, the clergy and Crown
reserves excepted.”
We observe a notice in the _Kingston Gazette_, that Wolfe Island, with
Pittsburgh, was conjoined to Kingston for municipal purposes in 1812.
HOWE ISLAND.—Is situated in the St. Lawrence, somewhat below Kingston,
it is a large, long island in front of the township of Pittsburgh, and
one part of it is almost conjoined to the mainland. It is a township by
itself, and contains about 8000 acres. It was called by the French, Isle
Cauchois; but was named by Simcoe, or his advisers, Howe Island.
When Upper Canada was erected into a province, it was divided into
nineteen counties; the seventh of these consisted of Howe Island, Wolfe
Island, Amherst Island, Gage Island, with all the other islands between
the mouth of the Gananoque and the point of Marysburgh. They constituted
the county of Ontario.
GARDEN ISLAND.—Upon the north of Wolfe Island, in Kingston Bay, is
_Garden Island_, containing some sixty-three acres. Near the western
extremity of Wolfe Island, is another small island, which received the
name of _Horseshoe Island_, and separated from the large island by a
narrow channel, which was named Batteau Channel, is _Gage Island_, after
Brig. General Gage, which was also sometimes called _Simcoe Island_. The
name given to it by the French was _Isle aux Foret_. It contains some
2164 acres of rich land.
AMHERST ISLAND.—So called after “Sir Jeffrey Amherst, of the honourable
and military order of Bath, Colonel of the Third and Sixteenth Regiments
of Infantry, Lieutenant-General in the Army, and Commander-in-Chief of
all His Majesty’s Troops and Forces in North America.” This beautiful
island, stretching along opposite, and about a mile and a half from
Ernesttown, being some twelve miles in length, causes an extension of
the Bay Quinté to a corresponding distance. It contains about 14,015
acres of very rich land. The channel separating it from Gage and Wolfe
Islands, forms the Lower Gap, and that which flows above, between it and
Marysburg, is the Upper Gap.
In the time of LaSalle, the Indian name of this island was _Kaouenesgo_.
It formed a part of his Seigniory, and he, some time after his arrival
to build Fort Frontenac, 1678, named the island _Isle de Tonti_, after a
brave French officer, with one arm, who accompanied him. This name,
modified to “Isle Tanta,” clung to the island until recent years. Sir
John Johnson, to whom it was granted, with other land, at the close of
the war, 1783, in a letter to the Military Secretary, calls it the
“Island of Tontine.” This may have been a fancy name of the owner, as we
find no other reference to it. The present name was bestowed in 1792,
after Gen. Amherst, who acted so conspicuous a part in the wars. Upon
some old maps the Island is designated “Sir John Johnson’s Island.” We
find an indefinite statement that the island was claimed by the Mohawks,
and that they ceded their rights to Col. Crawford, who accompanied Sir
John, and who, in turn, transferred it to Johnson. But, as he and Brant
were on the most intimate terms, they could, no doubt, arrange any
difference between themselves.
We do not see that there can be any objection to record a statement
which has been told for many long years by the inhabitants of the Bay,
that the Island was subsequently won by an aristocratic gambler, Lady B—
—, in England, at a game of cards, who afterwards disposed of it to the
present owner, Lord Mountcashel.
Some of the farm lots have been, we believe, disposed of, but the island
is mostly held by tenants, under lease from the Earl. The oldest settler
upon the island was Lieutenant McGinnis, of Johnston’s Regiment. He
lived here in some comfort, having several slaves to do the work.
Off the east end of Amherst Island, in the Bay, are three small islands,
called the _Three Brothers_, “famous for black bass fishing, and for
deep rolling sea.”
Leaving the waters of the Lower Bay, and directing our course westward,
we find the Bay comparatively free of Islands. Here and there, all along
its course, may be seen small islands, close to the shore. These
received names, as a general thing, after the person who owned the
adjacent land. There are, however, a few more islands which need special
notice.
Upon an old plan of Fredericksburgh, dated 1784, is to be seen in Hay
Bay, three islands; one near the north shore, at its eastern extremity,
is called _Hare Island_. To the south, at the eastern shore, are the
other two; the north one is called _Nut Island_; the more southern one
is _Wappoose Island_. This island, from its name, must have been the
place of residence of the principal chief of some Indian tribe, probably
the Kente Indians. Here, must have been a place of considerable
importance to the Indian—a rendezvous, whereat they met, and whereat the
chief held his simple, but dignified court.
Opposite the Mohawk Church, in the Indian Village, just off Grassy
Point, of Sophiasburg, is a low island, containing fourteen acres. This
island originally belonged to the Mississaugas, as did most of the
islands in the Bay, until a comparatively recent date. John Cuthbertson,
a grandson of Capt. John, purchased the island from John Sunday, and
other Mississauga chiefs. The price paid was a cow and a yoke of steers.
A quit claim deed was received by Mr. Cuthbertson, which is yet to be
seen. This bargain led to some trouble with the Government, who held
that the Mississaugas had no right to sell their land except to
Government. However, finally, the receipt held by Cuthbertson was
allowed to be a legal document. This Island is known as Capt. John’s
Island.
There are three small islands in Mohawk Bay, the largest of which is
called Hunger Island. It is situated a short distance from the mouth,
near the north shore, and contains about seven acres of land.
Along the north shore of Sophiasburg is _Big Island_. As its name
implies, it is an island of considerable size, containing over 3,000
acres of excellent land. The channel separating this long narrow island
from the mainland, especially at its east end is very narrow, and is
spanned by a short bridge, and may even be forded. Long grass abundantly
grows all though the channel, which, in summer, covers the water, and
seems to form the island and mainland into one. Here, is the constant
abode of the muskrat, and at certain seasons the resort of the wild
fowl.
It is said that Samuel Peck and Samuel Shaw were the first settlers on
this island. The older inhabitants along the bay remember when this
island was thickly covered with wood of the most heavy description. It
was for many years, at the beginning of the present century, the scene
of lumbering operations. Winter after winter, large quantities were cut
down, and in the spring, rafted and conveyed to Montreal.
The writer has heard it stated, this island was originally, when no
longer owned by the Indians, bestowed on one Hall, and that early maps
designate it Hall’s Island.
Huff’s island is situated to the west of Big Island, and forms a part of
Ameliasburgh, from which it is separated by a marsh, and to which, at
one point it is connected by a low neck of land. To the north is
Mississauga Point. The island obtains its name from the first settler,
Solomon Huff, who settled there in 1825. Solomon Huff was the son of
Paul Huff, one of the original settlers of Adolphustown, who came from
Long Island, New York, with Van Alstine. The writer has conversed with
the wife of Solomon Huff when in her 91st year, who retained a vivid
recollection of the time of their settling, from the fact that when
crossing the ice to the island they broke through with their furniture.
At the time of their settlement their nearest neighbours were on one
hand at Demorestville and on the other at Walbridge’s, on the north
shore of Mississauga Point.
Immediately to the east of Huff’s Island, is Grape Island. It received
the name it bears from the great quantities of wild grapes that at one
time grew spontaneously upon it. This island, now barren and treeless,
was at one time, the home of domesticated Indians. Even yet, may be
seen, the traces of the wooden cabins, where the Mississaugas lived
under the paternal care of the Rev. Mr. Case.
Continuing westward from Big Bay, there are to be seen several small
islands close to the shore, the names accorded them are not beautiful,
but probably have in their origin something significant. Thus, there is
one called Hog Island, and opposite Belleville is another known as Cow
Island. An island west of the mouth of the Moira, is yet called Zwick’s
Island, after the person who once owned the adjoining land. This island
was, at one time, an Indian burying ground.
We next come to the island upon which are extensive sawing mills,
commonly called Baker’s Island. It was formerly called Myers’ Island,
after Captain Myers, who lived adjacent thereto. He, for several years,
paid rent to the Indians for it. Telegraph Island is about four miles
above Belleville; and “Nigger” Island nine miles.
The last island we have to notice, belonging to the bay, is Indian
Island, situated at the extremity of Bay Quinté, west of the mouth of
the Trent River. Upon a map, to be seen in the Crown Land’s Department,
this is designated Mississauga Island. It has also been called Fighting
Island. There is a tradition respecting this island, to which the
existence of human bones found there, seems to give some degree of
plausibility. It is even now related, that at an early date, a company
of Mohawks, who had crossed from the south side of the lake, were
encamped upon this island. A band of Mississaugas, learning the fact,
approached the island cautiously at night, took away their boats so they
could not escape, and then suddenly, with superior numbers, fell upon
the Mohawks, and killed and scalped them all. But the bones found there
may have been placed there for burial.
THE CARRYING PLACE.
The distance between the head of bay Quinté, and the waters of Lake
Ontario, at the narrow part of the isthmus is about a mile and
three-quarters. By this narrow neck of land the peninsula of Prince
Edward is saved from being an island. This was called in the first
proclamation of Simcoe, “the isthmus of the Presqù isle de Quinté.” It
is from this source that the harbour on the lake west of the isthmus has
received the name Presqù isle.
We have elsewhere spoken of the fact that a Carrying Place had existed
here from time immemorial. From the Indian villages, which at times were
located, now along the lake shores of the peninsula, and now upon the
bay, the Indians started forth, perhaps to ascend the Trent, or the
Moira, or to pass down the waters of the bay, or perhaps to coast along
the shore of the lake, westward to the mouth of some river. And, when
the French had possession of the country they found this a well marked
Indian path. The French had not occasion to cross it, as they either
ascended the Ottawa, the Trent, or if desirous of going to the head of
Lake Ontario, they passed along its south shore. But in the early years
of Upper Canada, this portage was frequently crossed by those passing
back and forth from the lower parts of Canada to the west. This was the
case particularly after the forts of Oswego and Niagara were handed over
to the United States in 1796.
The original Indian Carrying Place can yet be traced. Its course is
indicated by a road which leads from water to water. The street is
consequently somewhat crooked, and is in some places wider than in
others. When the land was originally surveyed, this path was made the
base line of a row of lots on either side. The surveyor being ill and
entrusting the matter to an assistant; the Indian path was faithfully
followed. While this irregular dividing line between Ameliasburgh and
Murray may appear unseemly, it cannot be regretted that the old path is
thus indubitably known. Upon the Murray side of the road the fence is
comparatively straight, but upon the opposite side it is very devious.
This pretty nearly marks the old Indian path. While used as a Carrying
Place for batteaux, which were transported upon low wheels, the road was
no doubt, to a certain extent, straightened; yet mainly the old route
remained.
The old days, when Weller used to haul the batteaux from water to water,
have left no memorial; and even more recent days when the first
steamboats invariably came to this place, have left but little to mark
their history. Here is the remains of the wharf and frame store house
where once was life and enterprise; but now all is in decay, and rural
solitude prevails. But there is beauty here, as well as interest. All
along the street between the head of the bay and Weller’s Bay of the
lake are buildings, consisting of private residences, and churches. The
tourist will find abundant food for thought at the Carrying Place;
whether he contemplates the far remote past ere the Indian was disturbed
in his native abode; or the days when the French Recollet Missionaries
followed the footsteps of those whom they sought to convert; or the time
when the pioneer surveyor and settler first trod the path; or whether he
reflects upon the many human beings who have come and gone on their way
of life, now going one way now another; or thought of the trader intent
on pressing his business into the very outskirts of the settlements; of
the soldiers—regulars, and militia, who pressed onward for the conflict,
to drive off the invading foe; or of the thousand prisoners carried
captive through the province, which they had boastingly came to conquer.
If the writer were there again, he would ponder, in addition to all
this, upon the sad, yet natural occurence, that, of all those who had
come and gone, the one who imparted much information to him, who came to
the Carrying Place long years ago, is now gone the way of all the earth.
The history of the place is inseparably associated with the life of the
Hon. Col. Wilkins, whose loss was expressed by the presence of many as
he was carried to his grave.
DIVISION VIII.
THE FIRST TEN TOWNSHIPS IN THE MIDLAND DISTRICT.