CONTENTS—The Indians—Their origin—Pre-historic Canada—Indian relics—
Original inhabitants—Les Iroquois du nord—Original names—Peninsula
of Upper Canada—Champlain exploring—Ascends the Ottawa—His route
to Lake Nippissing—To Lake Huron—French River—The country—Georgian
Bay—Lake Simcoe—Down the Trent—A grand trip—Bay Quinté, and Lake
Ontario discovered—War demonstration—Wintering at the Bay—A
contrast—Roundabout way—Erroneous impressions.
CHAMPLAIN’S DISCOVERY OF THE BAY QUINTÉ, AND LAKE ONTARIO.
In this work but brief reference can be made to the general history of
the Indians. Perhaps it is hardly necessary to explain that the term
Indian, applied to the aborigines of America, took its origin from the
fact, that when the New World was discovered it was supposed to be a
part of the Indias (East Indias), the riches of which had led the
intrepid navigator to seek a more direct route thereto. And consequently
the natives were called Indians.
It does not lie within the scope of this work to speak of the several
theories which have been given with respect to the origin of the
natives, nor to advance any particular view. It is sufficient to remark
that the character of the various tribes, their features, their
traditions, and customs, all indicate most unmistakably that Asia was
the original birthplace of the aborigines of America. Of course,
reference is made only to those Indians whose representatives occupied
the continent when discovered by Columbus, and not to those who had in
some long past day held possession, who have left here and there
indications of their rude character, and primitive mode of life, and who
were swept away by the more powerful and warlike invaders—the
predecessors of the aborigines of whom we now write.
In our researches we have collected a good many Indian relics, of the
origin of which we have no record, and can only guess, while science
strives to explain. We offer no views of our own, but give the following
upon
PRE-HISTORIC CANADA.
From the Manchester _Guardian_. “At a meeting of the Manchester
Anthropological society, on Monday, Mr. Plant made a communication upon
some curious relics which he exhibited, of a race of pre-historic men,
for which he was indebted to Mr. J. S. Wilson, of Perrytown, Canada
West. These objects were obtained from the soil of the lands which have
been cleared of the forests and brought into cultivation. It is only in
the spring, when the snow has disappeared, that these objects are found,
the winter snow acting like a riddle to the soil, and bringing to the
surface the pebbles and broken pieces of pottery, flint, weapons, &c.
The most interesting features connected with these relics is, that the
localities where they are so frequently found are situated on the high
level ground of ancient terraces, or beach lines, which may be traced at
about 600 ft. above the sea level, all around the great Canadian lakes,
or, in fact, all around the high lands of the River St. Lawrence basin.
There are three terraces at descending levels to the present shores of
the great lakes. The highest terrace is the most ancient, and the
evidences connected with this terrace all seem to point to the
conclusion that it belongs to an age very remote, when the area now
occupied by the great fresh-water lakes was filled by an inland bay,
connected by a wide strait with the Atlantic, and was subject to the
action of glacier ice from the land, as well as flows of icebergs from
the current flowing from the north-east. The high terraces are,
therefore, of marine origin, and the pre-historic objects found in them
are indicative of a race of men whose habits were consistent with the
physical features of the land and sea; a race of hardy fishers, living
upon the whale, the walrus, the shark, and marine sources of food,
together with the reindeer and Arctic animals. Since this remote time,
the whole of the land about the lakes has risen from 600 to 1,000 feet
above the sea, slowly and evenly through a great length of time, pausing
twice sufficiently long to form two lower terraces; and at present is
forming a fourth on the shore lines of the lakes. The pre-historic
objects consist of great quantities of earthenware of rude make, quartz
arrow heads, black stone adzes and hatchets, sharp splinters of bone
worked to a point, teeth drilled and bone needles, and bowls and stems
of smoking pipes about six inches long. These last are singular and most
interesting objects, and are solely confined to the North American
continent, proving that the habit of smoking some narcotic plant has
been indulged in by mankind from the most remote ages to which the
geologist assigns the relics of pre-historic man, the age which
immediately succeeded the glacial period.”
All around the bay, as well as in other parts of Canada, may be found
here and there indications of an extinct people whose sepulchral remains
can be traced. Along the western portion particularly, are faint traces
of mounds or tumuli which have been found to contain not only human
remains; but objects of curiosity. For a more particular account of
these the reader is referred to an interesting paper in the _Canadian
Journal_ for September 1860, by T. C. Wallbridge, Esq., of Belleville.
THE ABORIGINES OF UPPER CANADA.
“Dark as the frost-nipped leaves that strew the ground,
The Indian hunter here his shelter found;
Here cut his bow, and shaped his arrows true,
Here built his wigwam and his bark canoe,
Speared the quick salmon leaping up the fall,
And slew the deer without the rifle ball;
Here his young squaw her cradling tree would choose,
Singing her chant to hush her swart pappoose;
Here stain her quills, and string her trinkets rude,
And weave her warrior’s wampum in the wood.
BRAINARD.”
For many long years, perhaps centuries, before the white man saw the
pleasant shores of the Bay, the Indian war-whoop was often heard, and
the war dance performed along its borders. We know but little of those
primal days. We cannot estimate the cruelties of barbaric warfare,
natural to the aborigines, which have been enacted. We cannot count up
the number of Indian braves who have moved upon its wood-begirded
waters, as conquerors, or as captives, nor the woman and children
carried away from their kindred—nor yet the total of the bleeding scalps
which have hung at the girdle of the returning warriors, as they pursued
the devious trail.
Early French travelers, generally Jesuits, have marked roughly the
territory, which embraces in its area, the land extending from the
Ottawa westward to Lake Huron, and from the St. Lawrence and Lake
Ontario, northward to the French River, and Lake Nippissing. This was
named the country of _Les Iroquois du Nord_, and, according to a map in
the Imperial French Library, the land north of Bay Quinté, was called in
1656, _Tout-hatar_, and the land west to Lake Huron, was named
_Conchradum_. There were, at the same time indicated at the eastern
borders, the “antient Hurons” and the “Outtawas” at the west, occupying
the peninsula of Upper Canada, the _Neutre Nation de truite_, and at the
mouth of the French river, _Mississagues_. It would seem at first, that
the inhabitants were a branch of the Iroquois, or Six Nation Indians.
But it may be that they had given to them the name Iroquois from their
peculiar mode of expression, like the Indian to the south of the lake;—
although not immediately connected. According to a map, examined by the
writer, in the Imperial library at Paris, all the land between the
Ottawa and Lake Huron was the Algonquins. A map by Champlain calls the
land north of the Bay Quinté, _Lien force cerfs_. The northern Iroquois
was divided into several tribes, each of which had a distinct name, and
lived in considerable communities, here and there. The old maps are
marked with sites of Indian villages, where, no doubt, they lived a
greater portion of their time; probably the families remained most of
the time, and also the males, except when away up the rivers to the
north, upon hunting expeditions. Among these tribes and villages was the
_Kentes_. Their village was situated at the east of Hay Bay, according
to some maps; according to others, it was placed upon the south shore of
Prince Edward, west of West Lake. Another tribe mentioned is
_Gaungouts_. And along the north shore of the Mohawk Bay near Napanee,
is marked an Indian village called _Gaunaroute_. Upon another map the
village here is called _Gameydocs_. Just above the Carrying Place, near
the harbour of Presqu Isle, is another village called _Ganaroske_, and a
second one designated _Gonetoust_. Some of the maps here alluded to,
bear date as late as 1703, while others are much earlier.
The waters of the bay and the lake adjacent, were looked upon as
valuable for fishing, and the land as abundant in game. McMullen, in his
History of Canada, speaks thus of the bay region. Referring to the year
1692, he states, “the Aborigines and French ravaged the frontiers of
Massachusetts, and revenged upon its helpless borderers the injuries
suffered by the Canadians; detachments of troops swept the favorite
hunting grounds of the Iroquois along the beautiful Bay of Quinté; and
an expedition from Montreal did considerable injury to the Mohawks in
their own country.”
The peninsula of Upper Canada was called, in 1686, _Saquinan_—(Paris
documents). The “Neutre Nation” was exterminated by the Iroquois prior
to 1650.
It is an interesting fact that Champlain arrived at Lake Ontario, or
“fresh water sea,” as he called it, being the first European to gaze
upon its broad blue waters, by the way of the Bay of Quintè. This was in
1615. Prior to that he had penetrated by way of Sorel river, and the
lake which has been named after him, and explored some part of the
territory to the south of Ontario lake; but probably was not north of
the Mohigan mountains, at least he did not then discover Lake Ontario.
His principal object at this time was to create terror of the French
arms, on behalf of the Six Nation Indians.
It was after a return from France, with a commission granting him
extensive powers in the peltry traffic, that Champlain, with the view of
protecting that trade, erected a fort on the site of Montreal. This done
he directed his attention to the country lying unexplored to the north.
Aware of Hudson’s discovery in the north, of the bay now bearing his
name, he was led to hope that by following the river Ottawa, of which
the Hurons gave him some information, to its upper waters, he would be
brought into close proximity if not actually to the bay, explored by
Hudson. He accordingly set out accompanied by one or more of the four
Recollet missionaries he had brought with him from France, and a
considerable force of Hurons, with the view of ascending the Ottawa to
its source. How far he penetrated into that rugged region, or how long a
time he expended, does not appear. But it would seem that failing in his
attempted discovery, he retraced his steps down the Upper Ottawa, until
he reached the mouth of the Mattawan river, which empties into the
Ottawa, and rises in the high lands to the west, approaching Lake
Nippissing. As nearly as can be learned, Champlain was here joined by
more warriors, who persuaded him to follow them and assist in a proposed
attack upon the Iroquois nation to the south of Lake Ontario. His course
was up the Mattawan river, through _la petite rivière_ to _lac du
Toulon_. Thence across to Trout Lake, Upper Trout Lake, and traversing
the high lands, from which the waters flow in opposite directions; some
into the valley of the Ottawa, and others towards the west, he descended
the river _La Vase_ into Lake Nippissing. Crossing this lake, he
descended the French river into the Georgian Bay. In passing it may be
observed that all the names, some of which are in French, and some in
English, have a special meaning, and were applied, at least some of
them, by the Indians. The Ottawa is so called not from the fact that the
territory through which it runs was the home of the Ottawa tribe, but,
because it was by its waters that they came to visit the French. The
Ottawa river, that is, the river by which the Ottawas came. On the other
hand the French river, which discharges into the Georgian Bay, was so
called by the Indians, because it was the river by which the French came
to their western domain. The length of French river is about 61 miles,
and is a chain of lakes, connected by short rapids. Lake Nippissing is
69 feet above Lake Huron.
It is now 253 years since this voyage of discovery was made by
Champlain, guided by the Indians. The appearance then presented to the
intrepid navigator must have been exceedingly wild and beautiful, as he
passed along the unknown way. Now swiftly gliding in the birch canoe
upon the glassy waters of a lake, now dancing down the rapids, among
rugged rocks, and green-clad islands; and anon, threading the devious
path of a _portage_, beneath the lofty arches of the wilderness, making
the first European footprints upon the virgin soil.
Deputy Surveyor-General Collins, writing to Lord Dorchester, by his
command, in 1788, speaking of the French river says: “The entrance is
composed of a considerable number of small islands and channels,” the
westernmost is the best navigable—about 250 feet wide, and has from two
to three fathoms depth of water. It is narrower a little way up, and at
about half a league from the entrance becomes exceedingly intricate, on
account of the small islands and channels, which are here so numerous in
every direction, and so much resembling each other in appearance, as to
make it extremely difficult without a guide to find the true navigable
channel, which, although deep in some places, is so narrow there is
scarce room for two canoes to pass each other. The bank in these
situations, is a steep rock, almost perpendicular, and there are very
strong currents or rapids. The term Souters, sometimes given to the
Missisauga Indians by the French, means to jump up and down, in
reference to their living upon this river, and being expert in
navigating its channels. “The country adjoining to, and near this,
(river) is a rocky desert, nothing growing but small scrubby bushes and
pine trees not thirty feet high—the same dreary prospect continues, I am
informed, all the way up to Lake Nippissing, which is recorded
twenty-five leagues.” He states that the coast from the mouth of the
river eastward is dangerous, for even canoes, although they may find
shelter among the islands which lie along most of the coast. It is
equally rocky and barren. Such was the nature of the way by which
Champlain was led.
He now directed his course southward along the wild and irregular shore
of the Georgian Bay, through the myriad islands that give beauty to that
coast. Arrived at the mouth of the Severn river, he ascended that
devious stream, and entered Sparrow Lake. Thence he crossed to Lake
_Couchiching_, which, at its southern extremity approaches to Lake
Simcoe. Crossing the portage to this Lake, he ascended the River Talbot,
in a north-east direction, and by frequent portages reached Balsam Lake.
Then, through Cameron Lake, past Fenelon Falls, and into Sturgeon Lake.
So on, by Pigeon Lake, Buck Hare Lake, Deer Lake, into Salmon Trout
Lake. Turning south, by Clear Lake, he descended the Otanabee, or
_Pamoduscoteong_, past the present site of Peterborough, and entered
Rice Lake. Again turning east, he entered the head waters of the River
Trent. Around by Heely’s Falls, down by Campbellford, then, by
Chisholm’s Rapids, he arrived at the head of the Bay of Quinté, sometime
in July, 1615.
Champlain took this route from the Ottawa, which had long before been
traveled by the Indians, at the request of the Indian warriors who
accompanied him, to make an attack upon their bitter enemy the Iroquois.
At the present day it would be a grand trip to make, by the way pursued
by Champlain, when he visited the Bay region. But how wonderfully
magnificent must it all have been to the bold, but educated French
explorer of the primeval forest.
Champlain crossed the Lake to a point not far from Oswego. Whether he
passed through the upper, or lower gap to the opposite side of the Lake,
and coasted the south shore; or whether he ascended Picton Bay and
crossed the Indian Carrying-place to East Lake, and thence into Ontario,
may be questioned. But in order to make an unexpected attack upon the
enemy, he had need to conceal his advance; hence it is reasonable to
suppose he would take the nearer route by Picton Bay, although it would
involve the crossing of the portage. This could scarcely be regarded as
a serious difficulty, as he had already passed many in the devious route
by the Ottawa.
Strange enough, that a European should discover Lake Ontario by entering
the head waters of the Trent River, and sailing through the Bay of
Quinté. Strange enough that a warlike demonstration should be made by
this route, against a foe living upon the south shore of the Lake.
Champlain, notwithstanding his caution, found his Indian foes prepared
to receive him, having well entrenched themselves, and he suffered a
serious defeat, being glad to secure a safe retreat in the Bay of Quinté
region, probably Prince Edward, after having himself received two
wounds.
Failing in his efforts to obtain a guide to conduct him down the St.
Lawrence, to his fort at Montreal, Champlain was compelled to spend the
winter months, which were by this time approaching, in the vicinity of
the Bay of Quinté. Probably six or nine months were passed by him upon
the northern shores. He did not remain all the time at the Bay, as it is
stated he visited the neighbouring Indian nations, especially the
neutral nation which occupied the peninsula between Lakes Erie and
Huron, and the head of Ontario. We can readily imagine the wide
difference between a long winter thus spent in 1615–16, mid the wild
scenes of aboriginal life by the ice-locked waters, and one spent in
this latter part of the 19th century, with the highly cultivated land,
and advanced civilization. Then, the trees of the forest, in one
unbroken denseness, was the sole home of the savage, and wild beast, and
waved in solemn mournfulness over the wintry landscape; while few other
than nature’s sounds disturbed the stillness of the wilderness. Now, the
dark forest has disappeared and human habitations of comfort and luxury
thickly stud the land. The wild beasts, as well as the original owners
of the territory, have almost disappeared. The snow of the ice-covered
bays and streams no longer remain unbroken by human foot. Sleigh roads
thickly intersect the surface, and joyous shouts of the skater break
upon the light pure air, while the gingle of sleigh bells indicate the
overflowing stream of travelers. The strings of telegraphs sigh in the
wind, instead of the tall trees’ bough. The iron horse snorts along
through the snow hills, instead of the beast from his lair. Towns and
cities rest in peaceful security, where there were thick jungles of
cedar and furs.
It was by this roundabout way that the Bay of Quinté was discovered; and
it was fifty years later when DeCourcelles, pursuing the Iroquois from
the Lower St. Lawrence ascended for the first time the river, direct
from Montreal to Lake Ontario. But during this time missionaries had
been at work among the Indians, upon the northern shores of the Lake—
(See early Missionaries).
The impressions made upon the minds of these first explorers, respecting
the Bay, seem to have been very erroneous; at least they have left maps
not only rude, but incorrect. Thus, we find upon an old map intended to
represent Lake Ontario and the Bay, with the country north of the Lake,
the Bay is made to extend northward, at right angles with the Lake, for
some distance, and then, turning westward somewhat, its extremity is
brought very near to another bay, which empties into Georgian Bay.