CONTENTS—Indians traveled by foot or by canoe—Secreting canoes—
Primeval scenes—Hunting expeditions—War path—In 1812—Brock—A night
at Myers’ Creek—Important arrival—The North West Company—Their
canoes—Route—Grand Portage—The Voyageurs—The Batteaux—Size—
Ascending the rapids—Lachine—A dry dock—Loyalists by batteaux—
Durham boats—Difficulties—In 1788, time from Lachine to
Fredericksburgh—Waiting for batteaux—Extracts from a journal,
travelling in 1811—From Kingston to Montreal—The expenses—The
Schenectady boats—Trade between Albany and Cataraqui—The Durham
boat—Duncan—Description of flat-bottomed boat by “Murray”—
Statement of Finkle—Trading—Batteaux in 1812—Rate of traveling—The
change in fifty years—Time from Albany to Bay Quinté—Instances—
Loyalists traveling in winter—Route—Willsbury wilderness—Tarrying
at Cornwall—The “French Train”—Traveling along north shore of
Ontario—Indian path—Horseback—Individual owners of batteaux—Around
Bay Quinté—The last regular batteaux—In 1819—“Lines” from
magazine.
TRAVELING BY CANOE.
Having pointed out the several general routes by which the aborigines
and the first Europeans in America, were wont to traverse the country
from the seaboard to the far west, and indicated more particularly the
smaller paths of the Indians around the Bay Quinté and Lake Ontario, we
purpose glancing at the means by which they made their way through the
wilderness.
The Native had but two modes of transporting himself from place to
place; namely, by foot and by the canoe. He was trained to make long
expeditions upon the war-path, or after prey. When his course lay along
a water way, he employed his birch canoe. This being light, he could
easily ascend rapids, and when necessary, lift it from the water, and
placing it, bottom upward, upon his head, carry it around the falls, or
over a portage with the greatest facility. When upon the chase, or about
to attack a foe, the canoe was so carefully secreted, that the passing
traveler would never detect its whereabouts. The French and English at
the first followed this Indian mode of traveling. From the graphic
descriptions which are given to us by the early writers of this Indian
mode of traveling in America, ere the sound of the axe had broken upon
the clear northern air, and while nature presented an unbroken garment
of green, it is not difficult to imagine that scenes of Indian canoe
traveling were in the extreme picturesque. It is not necessary to go
beyond the Bay Quinté, to find a place where all the natural beauty was
combined with the rude usages of the aboriginal inhabitant, to create a
picture of rare interest and attraction. In those primeval times there
was no regular passage made between one part of the country and another.
The Indian in his light canoe glided along here and there, as his fancy
led him, or the probability of obtaining fish or game dictated. At
certain seasons of the year there was a general movement, as they
started off on their hunting expeditions; and at other times the
warriors alone set out, when only intent upon surprising the hated foe.
On these occasions one canoe would silently and swiftly follow in the
wake of the other, until the place of debarkation was reached. For a
long time the birch canoe was the only mode of traveling, and when the
French came with their batteaux, the canoe continued for a long time the
principal means of transit. Even so late as the war of 1812, canoes were
employed, and many of the gallant ones who fought and conquered the
conceited and unscrupulous Yankee invader, found their way to the front
by the swift birch bark. Company after company of Red Coats were to be
seen plying the trim paddle as the canoe sped on its way. We have it on
good authority that Major General Brock, at the reception of the
intelligence, that the United States had declared war against Great
Britain, set out from Lower Canada in a birch canoe, and with a
companion and their boatman, journeyed all the way to York, followed by
a regiment of soldiers. Incidents of this passage are yet related by the
living. He reached Belleville, or as it was then called Myers’ Creek,
late one night, after having been traveling for some time without rest.
With his companion, he went ashore and sought a place to sleep. They
entered the public house of Captain Mc——, and after examining a room,
decided to sleep there the night. But the host, hearing an unusual
noise, rushed into the room demanding who was there. The General’s
companion, with the quickness, and in language somewhat characteristic
of the army of that time, told him he would kick him to h—ll in a
minute. Captain Mc—— somewhat disconcerted at the threat and tone of
authority walked out, and meeting the boatman, ask him who the parties
were. Upon being informed, he rushed away in a state of great alarm, not
daring to shew himself again to the General. The house is still
standing.
The following notice is from the Kingston _Gazette_.
“YORK, April 29, 1815.”
“On Sunday evening last arrived in this town from Burlington, in a
birch canoe, Lieutenant General Sir George Murray Knight,” &c., &c.
BATTEAUX—SCHENECTADY BOATS—DURHAM BOATS.
Gourley, speaking of Lachine, says that “from Lachine the canoes
employed by the North West Company in the fur trade take their
departure. Of all the numerous contrivances for transporting heavy
burthens by water, these vessels are perhaps the most extraordinary:
scarcely anything can be conceived so inadequate from the slightness of
their construction, to the purpose they are applied to, and to contend
against the impetuous torrent of the many rapids that must be passed
through in the course of a voyage. They seldom exceed thirty feet in
length, and six in breadth, diminishing to a sharp point at each end,
without distinction of head or stern; the frame is composed of small
pieces of some very light wood; it is then covered with the bark of the
birch tree, cut into convenient slips, that are rarely more than the
eighth of an inch in thickness; these are sewed together with threads
made from the twisted fibres of the roots of a particular tree, and
strengthened where necessary by narrow strips of the same materials
applied on the inside; the joints in the fragile planking are made
water-tight, by being covered with a species of gum that adheres very
firmly, and becomes perfectly hard. No ironwork of any description, not
even nails, are employed in building these slender vessels, which, when
complete, weigh only about five hundred weight each. On being prepared
for the voyage, they receive their lading, that for the convenience of
carrying across the portages is made up in packages of about
three-quarters of a hundred weight each, and amounts altogether to five
tons, or a little more, including provisions, and other necessaries for
the men, of whom from eight to ten are employed to each canoe; they
usually set out in brigades like the batteaux, and in the course of a
summer, upwards of fifty of these vessels are thus dispatched. They
proceed up the Grand, or Ottawa River, so far as the south-west branch,
by which, and a chain of small lakes, they reach Lake Nippissing;
through it, and down the French River into Lake Huron; along its
northern coast, up the narrows of St. Mary, into Lake Superior, and
then, by its northern side, to the Grand Portage, a distance of about
1,100 miles from the place of departure. The difficulties encountered in
this voyage are not easily conceived; the great number of rapids in the
rivers, the different portages from lake to lake, which vary from a few
yards to three miles or more in length, where the canoes must be
unladen, and with their contents carried to the next water, occasion a
succession of labors and fatigues of which but a poor estimation can be
formed by judging it from the ordinary occupations of other laboring
classes. From the Grand Portage, that is nine miles across, a
continuation of the same toils takes place in bark canoes of an inferior
size, through the chain of lakes and streams that run from the height of
land westward to the Lake of the Woods, Lake Winnipeg, and onwards to
more distant establishments of the company in the remote regions of the
north-west country. The men are robust, hardy, and resolute, capable of
enduring great extremes of fatigues and privation for a long time, with
a patience almost inexhaustible. In the large lakes they are frequently
daring enough to cross the deep bays, often a distance of several
leagues, in their canoes, to avoid lengthening the route by coasting
them; yet, notwithstanding all the risks and hardships attending their
employment, they prefer it to every other, and are very seldom induced
to relinquish it in favor of any more settled occupation. The few
dollars they receive as the compensation for so many privations and
dangers, are in general, dissipated with a most careless indifference to
future wants, and when at an end, they very contentedly renew the same
series of toils to obtain a fresh supply.”
“The batteaux,” says Ex-Sheriff Sherwood, “by which the refugees
emigrated, were principally built at Lachine, nine miles from Montreal.
They were calculated to carry four or five families, with about two tons
weight. Twelve boats constituted a brigade, and each brigade had a
conductor, with five men in each boat, one of which steered. The duty of
the conductor was to give directions for the safe management of the
boats, to keep them together; and when they came to a rapid they left a
portion of the boats with one man in charge. The boats ascending were
doubly manned, and drawn by a rope fastened at the bow of the boat,
leaving four men in the boat with setting poles, thus the men walked
along the side of the river, sometimes in the water, or on the edge of
the bank, as circumstances occurred. If the tops of trees or brush were
in the way they would have to stop and cut them away. Having reached the
head of the rapid the boats were left with a man, and the others went
back for others,” and so they continued until all the rapids were
mounted. Lachine was the starting place, a place of some twenty dwelling
houses. Here Mr. Grant had a dry dock for batteaux.
It was by these batteaux, that the refugees, and their families, as well
as the soldiers and their families passed from the shores of Lake
Champlain, from Sorel, and the St. Lawrence, where they had temporally
lived, to the Upper Province. It was also by these, or the Skenectady,
or the Durham boat, that the pioneers made their transit from Oswego.
Thus it will be seen that to gain the northern shore of the St. Lawrence
and Lake Ontario, was a task of no easy nature, and the steps by which
they came were taken literally inch by inch, and were attended with
labor hard and venturesome. Records are not wanting of the severe
hardships endured by families on their way to their wooded lands.
Supplied with limited comforts, perhaps only the actual necessaries of
life, they advanced slowly by day along dangerous rapids, and at night
rested under the blue sky. But our fathers and mothers were made of
stern stuff, and all was borne with a noble heroism.
This toilsome mode of traveling continued for many a year. John
Ferguson, writing in 1788, from Fredericksburgh to a friend in Lower
Canada, Lachine, says of his journey, “after a most tedious and
fatiguing journey I arrived here—nineteen days on the way—horrid roads—
sometimes for whole days up to the waist in water or mire.” But the
average time required to ascend the rapids with a brigade was from ten
to twelve days, and three or four to descend.
One can hardly conceive of the toilsome hours formerly spent in passing
from Kingston, or the seventh and eighth townships of the bay to
Montreal, and back. Before setting out, the traveler would make
elaborate preparations for a journey of several weeks. There was no
regular traffic, and only an occasional batteaux, laden with simple
articles of merchandise, would start for the head waters of the bay.
Individuals would often wait, sometimes a long time, for these
opportunities, and then would work their passage, by taking a hand at
the oars. Even up to the present century, it was the custom.
The following is a most interesting instance of batteaux traveling which
has been placed in our hands by the Rev. Mr. Miles. It gives one an
excellent idea of traveling at the beginning of the present century. “I
left Kingston on the 6th of April, 1811, but as the traveling _then_ was
not as it is _now_, I did not arrive in Montreal till the 15th. I will
just copy verbatim, the journal I kept on my passage. Durham boats were
scarce on the Canada side at that time, but it was thought if I could
get to the American shore, I would find one on its way to Montreal.
Well, I found a man in Kingston, just from Grindstone Island, who had
brought up some shingles and tar to sell, and he told me if I could get
to Briton’s Point, several miles down the river from Cape Vincent, and
to which place he would take me, that he thought I would find a Durham
boat there, and the following is my journal on that route.
“Grindstone Island, April 11th, 1811.—Left Kingston yesterday, April
6th, at 3 p.m., in an open skiff, with R. Watson, a clerk in Dr. Jonas
Abbott’s store, and two hands belonging to the skiff—head wind—rowed
hard till about eight in the evening, when having blistered both hands,
and being very much fatigued, we drew our skiff on shore, and camped on
the shore of Long Island, about five miles above Grindstone Island—wind
strong from the north—very cold and without victuals or fire—feet wet—
slept some, walked some, and by daybreak was somewhat chilled. Strong
head wind. Stuck close to our dear lodgings till about eight, when the
wind abated, and we stuck to our oars till about eleven o’clock, when we
made Grindstone Island, weary, and very hungry—eat a hearty dish of
“sapon” and milk—rested about an hour—set off for Briton’s tavern on the
American shore, where we arrived about 4 p.m., the water being entirely
calm. Had not been on shore ten minutes, as good luck would have it,
before we engaged a passage for Cornwall in a Durham boat, and a breeze
coming up directly from the south, our American boats immediately
hoisted sail and proceeded about thirty miles, when the wind changed,
and we put into a bay on Grenadier Island, about nine in the evening—eat
some supper at a house owned by Mr. Baxter—spread a sail upon the floor,
and seven boatmen and four passengers camped down before the fire. In
the morning I felt my bones as though they had been lying on the soft
side of a hard rough floor. April 8, head wind still. Wished myself
either at Kingston or Montreal. April 9, still a head wind. Must take it
as it comes. Reading and writing the order of the day. At 7 p.m.,
hoisted sail. At one a.m., arrived at a house on the Canada shore, and
slept on the floor till daylight. April 10, left for Ogdensburg, where
we arrived at 3 p.m. Found an old acquaintance and passed the afternoon
quite agreeably. April 11, had a good night’s rest. Still a head wind.
Found the printing office and composed types the greater part of the
day. April 12, still a head wind. April 13, left Ogdensburg and arrived
at Cornwall. April 14, left Cornwall and arrived at M’Gee’s, Lake St.
Francis. April 15, left M’Gee’s and arrived at Montreal about 8 p.m.
Traveling expenses from Kingston to Montreal $9.75.”
With the later coming refugees was introduced another kind of flat
bottomed boat. It was generally small and rigged with an ungainly sail.
It was generally built at the Town of Schenectady, and hence the name.
Schenectady is a German word, and means _pine barren_. Families about to
come to Canada would build one or more to meet their requirements. There
was never a large number of this particular kind of boat. Those that
were to be seen, were upon the bay.
With the opening up of trade between Albany and Upper Canada, was
introduced still another kind of vessel, which was adapted to the use of
merchants, engaged in the carrying trade. One of the earliest
traffickers from the Mohawk River to the lakes by the Durham boats was
Duncan, of Augusta, who was, as will be seen, one of the first
Legislative Councillors of Upper Canada. He finally removed to
Schenectady. It is said that he introduced the trade between the Mohawk
and Buffalo which led to the construction of the Erie Canal.
A writer, speaking of the boats used by the Canadians, says, the largest
boats used by the Canadian boatmen is called the Durham boat, “used here
and in the rapids of the Mohawk. It is long, shallow, and nearly flat
bottomed. The chief instrument of steerage is a pole ten feet long, shod
with iron, and crossed at short intervals with small bars of wood like
the feet of a ladder; the men place themselves at the bow, two on each
side, thrust their poles into the channel, and grasping successively the
wooden bars, work their way toward the stern, thus pushing on the vessel
in that direction.” (Murray).
Mr. Finkle remarks that “the first mode of conveyance for travelers from
Montreal to Kingston, after the settlement of Upper Canada, was by
Canadian batteaux laden with merchandize (at this time there was no
separate conveyance).” The return cargo consisted of barrels of flour,
peas, potash, north-west packs of furs, &c.; the men and conductors
employed in this business were Lower Canadians. This mode of conveyance
continued without interruption until 1809, when the Durham boats came
from the Mohawk River and embarked in the carrying trade only between
Montreal and Kingston. Being of commodious size, far above the batteaux,
they materially interfered with them and lessened the trade by the
batteaux. The men who managed the Durham boats came with them from the
Mohawk River, these boats were entirely manned by men from that country.
The flat bottomed boat continued in use until some time after the war of
1812. Until the canal along the St. Lawrence was constructed it was the
only way by which merchandize could be transported to the Upper Province
through the rapids of the St. Lawrence. After the establishment of York
as the capital of Upper Canada, there sprung up naturally, a trade
between Kingston and the “muddy” capital, and regular batteaux
communication was, after a little, established. Once a week the solitary
boat left Kingston, and slowly made its way by oars, up the bay to the
Carrying Place over which it was hauled by Asa Weller, a tavern keeper,
upon low wheels or trucks drawn by oxen, and then continued its way
along the shore of Ontario, to its destination. These boats carried not
only merchandize but passengers. Beside the regular batteaux there were
occasionally others, owned by small merchants and pedlars. It was by the
flat bottomed boat and canoe that many of the troops ascended to the
head of the lake in 1812, and by which many of the 1000 prisoners taken
at Detroit were conveyed to Quebec. The rate of speed of the batteaux or
Durham boat, as well as the Skenectady boat, can be approximated from
the statement of “A traveller,” writing in 1835. He says, “the line of
boats which start from Albany to Skenectady, on their way to Upper
Canada, go two-and-a-half miles an hour, taking in stoppages—charging
one-and-a-half cents per mile, including board.” This mode of traveling
is preferred by large families and prudent settlers.
The conveniences of traveling then, as well as the time required, are so
widely different from what we are accustomed to in this day, that we
have to pause and wonder at the change which even fifty and sixty years
have wrought. Even after Upper Canada had become somewhat settled, it
was a momentous matter for a family to set out from the Hudson for
Cataraqui, or the Bay Quinté, as they generally called the settlement in
those days. For instance, Mr. Lambert, of Sophiasburgh, who came in
1802, was six weeks on the way between Albany and the bay, coming by the
Mohawk and Oswego Rivers, and crossing from “Gravelly Point” to “Isle
Tanti.” We will give another instance:—Nicholas L., came from New Jersey
with seven sons and two daughters. It took a month to come. Having
reached Schenectady they waited to build a batteaux. This completed,
they stored away provisions to last them until Cataraqui was reached.
They also brought with them iron kettles, with which to make maple
sugar, and “a churn full of honey.” Mr. L., being a fanning mill maker,
he brought also a quantity of wire gauze. At Oswego, the fort there
being still held by the British, they were strictly questioned as to the
use intended to be made of the kettles and gauze. Satisfaction being
given on this point, the family continued their tedious journey along
the shore toward Kingston. Barely escaping being wrecked off Stony
Island, they at last reached the north shore. Three days more of weary
rowing up the bay, and Hay Bay was reached, where they settled.
The loyalists not alone came in summer, by batteaux or the Schenectady
boat; but likewise in winter. They generally followed, as near as
possible, some one of the routes taken in summer. To undertake to
traverse a wilderness with no road, and guided only by rivers and
creeks, or blazed trees, was no common thing. Several families would
sometimes join together to form a train of sleighs. They would carry
with them their bedding, clothes, and the necessary provisions. We have
received interesting accounts of winter journeyings from Albany along
the Hudson, across to the Black River country, and to the St. Lawrence.
Sometimes the train would follow the “military road” along by Champlain,
St. George, and as far as Plattsburgh, and then turn north to the St.
Lawrence, by what was then called the Willsbury wilderness, and
“Chataguee” woods. At the beginning of the present century there was but
one tavern through all that vast forest, and this of the poorest
character. Indeed it is said that while provision might be procured for
the horses, none could be had for man. Those who thus entered Canada in
winter found it necessary to stay at Cornwall until spring. Two or more
of the men would walk along the St. Lawrence to the bay Quinté, and, at
the opening of navigation, having borrowed a batteaux descend to
Cornwall for the women, children, and articles brought with them. Often,
indeed generally unacquainted with the use of the boat, the passage up
and down the river was tedious and toilsome. While the families and
sleighs were transported in the batteaux the horses were taken along the
shore by the larger boys, if such there were among them. The “French
train” was occasionally employed in their winter travels. It consisted
of a long rude sleigh with several horses driven tandem style, this
allowed the passage among the trees to be made more easily.
Many very interesting reminiscences are known of traveling along the bay
by the pioneers. A few are adduced.
TRAVELING TO YORK AND QUEENSTON.
Travelers from Montreal to the west would come by a batteaux, or Durham
boat, to Kingston. Those who had business further west, says Finkle,
“were conveyed to Henry Finkle’s in Ernest town, where they commonly
stopped a few days. Thence they made their journey on horse back. A
white man conducted them to the River Trent, where resided Colonel
Bleecker who was at the head, and had control of all the Mississauga
Indians, and commanded the entire country from the Trent to Toronto. At
this place the traveler was furnished with a fresh horse and an Indian
guide to conduct him through an unsettled country, the road being little
better than a common Indian path, with all its windings. The road
continued in this state until about the year 1798. Sometimes the
traveler continued his way around the head of the lake on horse back to
Queenston, where resided Judge Hamilton.
During the time the surveyors were laying out the townships of the bay,
batteaux occasionally passed up and down, supplying the staff with their
requirements, or perhaps with some one looking for a good tract of land.
In 1790 a batteaux was owned by Mr. Lambert, of the eighth township, and
Mr. Ferguson, writing from Kingston to Mr. Bell, wished him to borrow
it, to come to Kingston.
Among the first to use batteaux as a mode of traffic, was Captain Myers.
He sailed one up and down the bay to carry, not only his own freight,
but for the accommodation of others. He frequently went to Kingston, and
now and then to Montreal, the mode pursued, was to charge for freight
down, and then give the passenger a free passage back. This was followed
for many years, with great profit. The Captain was accustomed to make
the journey as pleasant as possible to the passengers. He always kept
his grog in his “caboose,” and would deal it out to all. There was no
doubt much of jollity and pleasant yarn-spinning, during the long
passages upon the tranquil waters of the bay. Captain Myers subsequently
owned a schooner.”
A letter written 11th November, 1790, by John Ferguson, to Wm. Bell, of
Sidney, says, “As I suppose Mr. Lounsbury’s boat is idle, I would be
glad that you would endeavour to borrow or hire it and Sherrard’s son
and come down to the third township.”
When persons had gone down the bay, and were expected to return upon a
certain night, there would often be a fire kindled on the shore to guide
them homeward. In dark nights this was really necessary. Many were the
expedients resorted to make short cuts. The feat of swimming horses over
the bay was now and then resorted to by the Wallbridges after they
settled in Ameliasburgh. Wishing to go to Kingston, they would go down
to the point where the bay is narrow, and swim the horses across to Ox
Point, and then ride to Kingston by a bridle path. It would now and then
happen at a late period, that a traveler passing to his place of
settlement would have a lumber waggon. This would be ferried across the
bay by placing it across two log canoes. Referring to swimming the bay
by a horse, a colored man, yet living within the neighbourhood of
Belleville, remembers when a boy, to have been put upon a horse, and
then to have obeyed orders to swim him across the bay. This occurred
near Belleville.
Long after steamboats were started on the bay, the batteaux continued to
ply between Belleville and Montreal. The last to sail these was Fanning
and John Covert. In 1830, Fanning arrived at Montreal from Belleville so
early as to present his bills of laden upon the first of April. The
following business notice cannot fail to be interesting:
“The subscribers having established a line of Durham Boats from this
place, propose forwarding from the different ports of the lake to that
of Montreal, on the following terms, viz.:
“From York, Niagara, Queenston, and the head of the lake, for each
barrel of Flour delivered at the Port of Montreal, 5s. and 6d.
“From Kingston, to the Port of Montreal, for each barrel of Flour, 4s.
and 6d.
“From York, Niagara, Queenston, and the head of the lake, for each
barrel of Potash delivered at the Port of Montreal, 12s. and 6d.
“From Kingston to the Port of Montreal, for each barrel of Potash, 10s.
“From York, Niagara, Queenston, and the head of the lake, for each
barrel of Pork delivered at the Port of Montreal, 8s. and 3d.
“From Kingston to the Port of Montreal, for each barrel of Pork, 6s. and
9d.
“Merchandize will be transported by the same means from Lachine to
Kingston, at the rate of 5s. per cwt.
“An elegant Passage Boat will also leave Kingston every tenth day for
Montreal, which will be fitted up in the most commodious manner and
prevent any delay to passengers leaving the upper part of the lake in
the Steam Boat _Frontenac_, it having been built for the purpose of
leaving this place immediately after her arrival.
“These arrangements will take effect at the opening of the navigation,
and be continued during the season.
“THOMAS MARKLAND.
“PETER SMITH.
“LAWRENCE HERKIMER.
“JOHN KERBY.
“WILLIAM MITCHELL.
“Kingston, February, 1819.”
Respecting the Canadian Batteaux, the following is from the Boston
_Weekly Magazine_ of an old date.
“Lines written while at anchor in Kingston Harbour, Lake Ontario, on
hearing from several Canadian boats entering from the St. Lawrence—their
usual songs.
Hark! o’er the lakes unruffled wave,
A distant solemn chant is sped;
Is it some requiem at the grave?
Some last kind honor to the dead?
‘Tis silent all—again begin;
It is the wearied boatman’s lay,
That hails alike the rising sun,
And his last soft departing ray.
Forth from yon island’s dusky side,
The train of batteaux now appear,
And onward as they slowly glide,
More loud their chorus greets the ear.
But, ah! the charm that distance gave,
When first in solemn sounds their song
Crept slowly o’er the limpid wave,
Is lost in notes full loud and strong.
Row, brothers row, with songs of joy,
For now in view a port appears;
No rapids here our course annoy,
No hidden rocks excite our fears,
Be this sweet night to slumber given,
And when the morning lights the wave
We’ll give our matin songs to heav’n,
Our course to bless, our lives to save.”