This is called the Galata Cemetery. It is a great forest of cypress
trees, extending from the summit of the hill of Pera all the way
down the steep declivity, nearly to the edge of the Golden Horn, and
casting its thick shadows over myriads of little stone and marble
pillars--inclining at every angle and scattered irregularly over
the hillside. Some of these are surmounted by round turbans on which
may be seen traces of coloring and inscriptions; others are pointed
at the top, many lie prone upon their sides, while from others the
turbans have been cut clean off, making one fancy that they belong to
Janissaries, whom, even after death, Sultan Mahmûd took occasion to
degrade and insult. The greater part of the graves are merely indicated
by square mounds of earth, having a stone at either end, upon which,
according to Mussulman belief, the two angels Nekir and Munkir take
their seats to judge the soul of the departed. Here and there may be
seen small enclosures surrounded by a low wall or railing, in the
middle of which stands a column surmounted by a huge turban, and all
around it other smaller columns: this is the grave of some pasha or
person of distinction buried in the midst of his wives and children.
Footpaths wind in and out among the graves and trees, crossing and
recrossing one another in all directions from one end of the cemetery
to the other. A Turk seated in the shade smokes tranquilly; boys
run about and chase each other among the tombs; here and there cows
are grazing, and a multitude of turtle-doves bill and coo among the
branches of the cypress trees; groups of veiled women pass from time to
time; and through the leaves and branches glimpses are caught of the
blue waters of the Golden Horn streaked with long white reflections
from the minarets of Stambul.