CHAPTER XVIII

THE MONASTERY

Scott had some strange ways of seeking relaxation from the strain of

his work. On Christmas Day, 1814, he wrote Constable that he was

'setting out for Abbotsford to refresh the machine.' During the year

he had written his first great novel, 'Waverley'; one of his longer

poems, 'The Lord of the Isles'; nearly the whole of his 'Life of

Swift'; two essays for an encyclopædia; a two-volume family memoir for

a friend; and kept up a voluminous personal correspondence,--an amount

of industry which is best described by Dominie Sampson's word,

_prodigious_. Surely the 'machine' needed 'refreshment,' and it

consisted in producing, in six weeks' time, another great novel, 'Guy

Mannering'! In the same way, while dictating 'Ivanhoe,' in spite of

severe bodily pain which prevented the use of his pen, he sought

refreshment by starting another novel, 'The Monastery.' 'It was a

relief,' he said, 'to interlay the scenery most familiar to me with the

strange world for which I had to draw so much on imagination.'

'The Monastery' was the first of Scott's novels in which the scenery is

confined to the immediate vicinity of his own home. It is all within

walking distance of Abbotsford and much of it had been familiar to the

author from childhood. Melrose, or Kennaquhair, is only about two

miles away. This little village is as ancient as the abbey from which

it takes its name, and {256} that splendid ruin dates from 1136, when

the pious Scottish king, known as St. David, founded the monastery and

granted extensive lands to the Cistercian Order of Monks for its

maintenance. The village has followed the fortunes of the

abbey--prospering when the monks prospered, and suffering the blight of

war whenever the English kings descended upon it. Its present

prosperity, so far as it has any, is the gift of Sir Walter Scott.

Hawthorne, who rambled through the country in 1856, noted in his

journal that 'Scotland--cold, cloudy, barren little bit of earth that

it is--owes all the interest that the world feels in it to him.' I

cannot endorse this view of Scotland, for it left quite the opposite

impression upon my mind, but the last part of the remark is certainly

true of Melrose. It bears about the same relation to Scotland that

Stratford does to England. Thousands go there every year to see the

work of art, glorious even in ruins, which represents the highest

development of the Gothic architecture and to marvel at the rich

carvings in stone which, after the lapse of nearly six hundred years,

still remain as a monument to the patience, skill, and devotion of the

monks of St. Mary's. But they go because the great Wizard of the North

has thrown the glamour of his genius over the whole of the Border

country, of which Melrose is the natural centre. And when they arrive,

they find the abbey interpreted in the words of 'The Lay of the Last

Minstrel,' which the custodians of the ruin, for fourscore years, have

never tired of quoting.

In the novel, no attempt is made to describe the beauty of the ruin.

The poem had already done that to perfection. But the monks spring

into life again, the {257} venerable ruin is transformed into a church,

the monastic buildings resume their former shape, and the palace of

their ruler is refurnished in all its original magnificence. A fire of

glowing logs gives warmth to the apartments. An oaken stand, with a

roasted capon and 'a goodly stoup of Bourdeaux of excellent flavour,'

suggests the truth of the old rhyme:--

The monks of Melrose made fat kail

On Fridays when they fasted,

Nor wanted they gude beef and ale

So lang's their neighbours' lasted.

In a richly carved chair before the fire sits a portly abbot, with

round face, rosy cheeks, and good-natured, laughing eyes, the product

of a long life of good feeding and indolent ease. By his side stands

the sub-prior, a cadaverous, sharp-faced little man, with piercing grey

eyes bespeaking a high order of intellect, his emaciated features

testifying to rigid fastings and relentless self-abasement. The abuse

of the monastic privileges, common enough at the time, is thus

contrasted with the conscientious observance of all the rules of the

order. In and out of the cloisters, the refectory, and the palace,

monks in black gowns and white scapularies are continually passing.

The old ruin has been restored by the genius of the novelist to the

life and activity of the sixteenth century.

The earliest date referred to in the story is 1547, the year of the

battle of Pinkie, when the Scottish forces met with a disaster exceeded

only by Flodden Field. In this battle Simon Glendinning, a soldier

fighting for the 'Halidome' of St. Mary's, met his death. His son

Halbert was then nine or ten years old. The story comes {258} to a

close when he is nineteen, which would be 1557. The hostility of Henry

VIII had caused great anxiety to the abbots of Melrose long before this

time and the persecution reached a climax in 1545. Sir Ralph Ewers and

Sir Brian Latoun systematically ravaged the Scottish Border, burning

hundreds of towns, castles, and churches, slaughtering and imprisoning

the people by the thousands and driving off their cattle and horses.

In the course of their raids, they reached Melrose with a force of five

thousand men and vented their spite on the beautiful old abbey. The

Scots took prompt vengeance. They quickly raised an army, and under

the leadership of Sir Walter Scott of Buccleuch, met the English and

defeated them with heavy losses. Both Ewers and Latoun were among the

slain, and the monks of Melrose buried them in the abbey with great

satisfaction. 'The Monastery' does not refer to this event, but its

graphic picture of the unsettled state of the country and the

consequent anxiety of the monks constitutes its chief value.

North of the abbey and across the Tweed is a green hillside, at the

base of which is a weir or dam. This is the place where the sacristan

of St. Mary's was pitched out of his saddle into the stream by the

'White Lady of Avenel,' who dipped him in the water two or three times

to make sure that 'every part of him had its share of wetting.'

The old bridge, which the sacristan was prevented from crossing by the

perversity of old Peter, the bridge-tender, was about a mile and a half

up the stream. Such a bridge once existed, though now there are no

traces visible. Scott used to see the foundations {259} occasionally

when drifting down the river at night in pursuit of one of his

favourite pastimes, spearing salmon by torchlight. There were three

towers in the water. A keeper lived in the middle one and controlled

the traffic by raising or lowering the draws at his pleasure. Those

who refused to pay his price, or whom he did not wish to accommodate,

might ford the stream, but at some stages of the water this was a

perilous operation.

The river Allan flows into the Tweed near the site of this bridge. It

is a little mountain brook that flows, in serpentine course, through

the valley of Glendearg. A mile or so up the rivulet there is a

picturesque and shady glen called Fairy Dean. After a flood, little

pieces of curious stones, in fantastic shapes, are often found, the

play of the waters having transformed the fragments of rock into fairy

cups and saucers, guns, boats, cradles, or whatever a childish

imagination might suggest. This was the abode of the fairies where the

little elfin folk held their nightly carnivals, and who knows but Queen

Titania herself might have held her moonlight revels upon this very

spot? At any rate, the neighbouring people, for centuries, by common

consent, recognized the feudal rights of the fairy race to this little

dell, and left them undisturbed. It must have been the abode of the

White Lady, and no doubt stood in the author's mind for the secluded

glen which he calls, in Celtic, _Corrie nan Shian_, meaning 'Hollow of

the Fairies,' where Halbert Glendinning found the huge rock, the wild

holly tree, and the spring beneath its branches. Here, doubtless, for

no more appropriate spot can be found, Halbert summoned the mystic

maiden with the words:--

{260}

Thrice to the holly brake--

Thrice to the well:--

I bid thee awake,

White Maid of Avenel!

Noon gleams in the Lake--

Noon glows on the Fell--

Wake thee, O wake,

White Maid of Avenel!

At the head of the glen there are three ruined peel-houses or Border

towers, known as Hillslap, Colmslie, and Langshaw. The first of these

may fairly stand for the original of Glendearg, the home of the

Glendinnings. This old tower has a sculptured date on the lintel of

the entrance which seems to indicate that it was built in 1585--a

little too late for the story, to be sure, but trifles like that never

worried Sir Walter. He wanted to place the Widow Glendinning and her

two children in a tower suited to the ancient family connexions of her

husband who might have been able to defend his secluded retreat against

all comers for many years, had not the necessities of the time required

his service in the wars for the defence of his country. Hillslap

offered an excellent type of such a Border fortalice, and its situation

at the head of the glen, well protected by the surrounding mountains

and isolated by its remoteness from the ordinary lines of travel, made

it suitable for the purposes of the tale.

Referring to the castle of Julian Avenel, Scott, in a footnote, remarks

that it is vain to search near Melrose for any such castle, but adds

that in Yetholm Loch, a small sheet of water southeast of Kelso, there

is a small castle on an island, connected with the mainland by a {261}

causeway, but it is much smaller than Avenel. Of course we must take

the author's word for this, and yet, whether he did it with conscious

purpose or not, he succeeded in putting into his description some

features which irresistibly suggest a castle only seven miles from

Melrose, the tower of Smailholm, associated with the dearest memories

of his childhood.

Smailholm is one of the most perfect examples of the old feudal keeps

to be found in Scotland. A very small pool lies on one side of the

tower, but it is suggestive of the loch which once surrounded the

entire castle, making it a retreat of great security. 'The surprise of

the spectator was chiefly excited by finding a piece of water situated

in that high and mountainous region, and the landscape around had

features which might rather be termed wild, than either romantic or

sublime.' It was a surprise to me to find even a small pool of water

in such a locality, and I cannot help thinking that at least some

recollections of the peculiar situation of Smailholm may have been in

the author's mind when he wrote this description.

Scott has himself mentioned a prototype of the vulgar, brutal, and

licentious Julian Avenel in the person of the Laird of Black Ormiston,

a friend and confidant of Bothwell and one of the agents in the murder

of Darnley.

The concluding scene of the novel represents a sorrowful procession of

monks, in long black gowns and cowls, marching solemnly to the

market-place of the town, where they formed a circle around 'an ancient

cross of curious workmanship, the gift of some former monarch of

Scotland.' This old Mercat Cross still stands {262} in the centre of

the market-place of Melrose. It is about twenty feet high and is

surmounted by the figure of the unicorn and the arms of Scotland. It

requires a vivid imagination to identify the unicorn, however, the

ravages of time giving it more the aspect of a walrus, rampant.

'The Monastery,' following so soon after Scott's greatest success,

suffers severely by comparison with 'Ivanhoe,' and, perhaps for this

reason, was considered something of a failure. The cause, generally

assigned by the critics, was twofold, or rather, may be attributed to

two characters, which did not appeal to the public as Scott had

expected. One of these was the 'White Lady of Avenel' and the other,

Sir Piercie Shafton.

Scott had always manifested a fondness for ghosts, goblins, witches,

and the supernatural. The goblin-page made a nuisance of himself in

'The Lay of the Last Minstrel' and came near spoiling the poem; Marmion

had to fight a phantom knight, and so did Bertram Risingham, but in

both cases a rational explanation dispelled the mystery; the Baron of

Triermain visited a phantom castle in the Valley of St. John; Bruce

landed on the shores of Carrick, guided by a weird supernatural light;

Fergus MacIvor was dismayed by the Bodach Glas, a cheerful sort of

family ghost which always appeared when disaster was impending; the

guest of the Antiquary was compelled to sleep in a haunted chamber; a

mysterious fountain had a fatal influence upon the life of the Bride of

Lammermoor; and so throughout the pages of Scott's poems and novels we

find these strange incidents and phantom appearances. The real

orthodox ghost only peeps in at you occasionally and quickly vanishes.

{263} Although you may be frightened a little, you delight,

nevertheless, in the mystery. But there is something too substantial

about a female ghost who climbs up behind a man on horseback, guides

him into a stream of deep water, and ducks him three times, meanwhile

reciting long stanzas of poetry. And when the same ghost appears again

and again, as though the whole plot depended upon her personal

exertions, the constant exposure to the limelight causes the illusion

to melt away. This, I fancy, is the reason the Maid of Avenel failed

to appeal to Scott's readers.

Sir Piercie Shafton, the Euphuist, seems in like manner to have been

overdone. A suggestion of the foppery and absurdities of the coxcombs

of Queen Elizabeth's court might have been interesting, but Sir Piercie

remains on the stage too long and becomes a bore. The pedantic Baron

of Bradwardine in 'Waverley' is a bore, but we like him. The garrulous

Dalgetty is tiresome, but we could not do without him. Sir Piercie, on

the contrary, has no redeeming traits.

Aside from the failure of these two characters to please the public,

the novel lacks the interest that attaches to all its predecessors.

There is no Dandie Dinmont, nor Meg Merrilies, nor Dominie Sampson; no

Jonathan Oldbuck nor Edie Ochiltree; no historical personage of

interest like Rob Roy or King Richard; no Jeanie Deans; no Flora

MacIvor; no Die Vernon; no Rebecca.

On the other hand, it has some fine pictures of the sturdy Scotch

character, it gives a glimpse of monastic life in the sixteenth

century, and has an historical value in its presentation of the

conflict of cross-currents of {264} thought and feeling, as they

affected the people who lived amid the furious contentions of the

Reformation. Father Eustace is a fine type of the able, intelligent,

and devoted Catholic priest, and Henry Warden of the brave,

unflinching, determined apostle of the reformed doctrines.

{265}

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