ALONE IN THE FOREST--AWAKENED BY THE CRY OF A PANTHER--THE BRUTE
DISCOVERS ME--I TAKE REFUGE IN A TREE--THE PANTHER DISAPPEARS--A VISIT
TO THE LAKE--VAIN EFFORTS TO RECOVER MY RIFLE AND KNAPSACK--I CONTINUE
TOWARDS THE WEST, HOPING TO MEET MY FRIENDS--MORE SULPHUR SPRINGS--
NEARLY OVERWHELMED BY A MUD VOLCANO--A POISONOUS VALLEY--CAUGHT IN A
SNOW-STORM--BUILD A HUT--MY FARE, THISTLE ROOTS--MAKE TRAPS AND A
FISHING-LINE--SALLY FORTH--CATCH THREE BEAVERS--FIND ANOTHER LAKE--
SALMON-TROUT CAUGHT--CONTINUE DOWN A RIVER, AND COME UPON A NUMBER OF
MAGNIFICENT GEYSERS--AM ABOUT TO TAKE UP MY ABODE IN A GROTTO, WHEN A
HOT SPRING RISES FROM IT--I SHIFT MY QUARTERS--PREPARE FOR ANOTHER
SOLITARY NIGHT--I HEAR A SHOT, AND A WOUNDED DEER BOUNDS NEAR ME.
My exertions had made me hungry. Recollecting the amount of animal life
which abounded in that region, however, I had no great fear of starving
altogether, for if I could not shoot I might trap animals. I hoped,
however, to be able to rejoin my companions the following day, when my
wants would be supplied, so that I was not much out of spirits. Should
I fail to trap game at any time, or should I fail to meet my companions
even for some days, there were, I remembered, roots of various sorts
which might serve for food, though it was now too late to obtain them.
Indeed, barely light enough remained to enable me to cut down some
branches with which to form a slight hut. I managed to collect a few to
answer my purpose, the thick trunk of a tree serving as a back. In
spite of this shelter, it was very cold; but of course I made up my mind
to endure it as best I could, and, in spite of hunger and anxiety, it
was not long before I fell asleep.
What time had elapsed I know not, when I was awakened by a shrill cry,
almost like that of a human being. I shouted out for help before I was
quite awake, thinking it must come from my companions, who were in
danger; but when completely aroused, I knew too well that it was the
shriek of the panther which so often makes night hideous in the forests
of the south. What the brute was about, I could not tell; but as I knew
he must be close to me, I again shouted out, hoping to frighten him
away. At the same time clutching hold of a low branch of the tree which
hung directly overhead, I swung myself into it.
Presently I saw the panther come out of a thicket close at hand, and
smell round the hut. He had only just discovered me, and seemed to have
a strong inclination to make his supper off my body. I did not feel
altogether comfortable, even where I was, as I had a belief that
panthers can climb, like most of the cat tribe, and that he might take
it into his head to mount the tree. I had no weapon besides my knife,
but with that I managed to cut off a pretty thick branch, with which I
hoped to be able to defend myself.
As I found it very cold where I sat, my first object was to try and
drive the brute away. I therefore kept pelting him with pieces of
withered branches, which I broke off; but to no purpose. Still snarling
occasionally, he kept smelling round and round the tree, frequently
casting a look up at me with his glittering eyes. Now and then he went
to a little distance, and seemed about to spring into the tree. At last
he got into a position which enabled me to take good aim at him, and I
threw a heavy piece of a branch, which hit him directly on the nose. At
the same time I sprung round the tree, so as to be concealed from his
view. He gave an upward glance; but not seeing me, he appeared to be
seized with sudden fright, and, greatly to my satisfaction, went
muttering away into the depths of the wood.
Trusting that the panther would not come back, I descended the tree, and
once more sought the shelter from which he had driven me. The
interruption to the night's repose had been somewhat unpleasant, but
that did not prevent me sleeping on until daylight; after which I
proceeded in the direction where I expected to find the lakelet into
which my rifle and knapsack had dropped.
I was considering what I should do for food, when I observed a green
plant of a bright hue, with a small head, which I recognised as a
thistle, the roots of which I had seen the Indians use for food.
Pulling it up, I found it not unlike a radish in taste and consistency.
Searching about, I soon found several more: and although not likely to
be very nutritious, the roots served to stop the gnawings of hunger, and
enabled me to make my way with a more elastic step.
My thoughts were occupied as to the probability of finding Manley and
the sergeant. I hoped that, once clear of the forest, they might encamp
and make a large fire, the smoke of which would serve to guide me to
them. Should they, on the contrary, continue searching about, we might
miss each other.
The shore of the lakelet was at last reached, but my first glance at it
convinced me that there was every probability of its being of great
depth. The cliffs over which my rifle and knapsack had fallen went
sheer down into it; while farther on the torrent brought a large supply
of water, which found an exit on the opposite side. The water was clear
as crystal, and from the shore upon which I stood I could see the
bottom. When I put in my stick, however, I could not fathom it--and
this at the shallowest part. Still, my existence might depend upon
recovering my rifle, so, throwing off my clothes, I plunged in and swam
to the foot of the cliff. I felt sure that I was under the very spot
from whence the things had fallen, but when I looked down,
notwithstanding the clearness of the water, I could not see them, nor
the bottom, and this at once convinced me of the immense depth. I had
therefore to abandon all hope of recovering my rifle and knapsack, and
swim back, not altogether without some fear of being seized with cramp
from the coldness of the water.
Quickly dressing, I ran on to warm myself, keeping as before to the
west, as I felt sure that Manley and the sergeant would proceed in the
same direction. Coming to a high mound or hill, I climbed to the top,
whence I could obtain a pretty extensive view; but nowhere could I see
any objects moving which could be my friends. A herd of elk were
browsing in the far distance, and a number of mountain sheep were
scampering about on the side of the neighbouring height. My eyes were
attracted, however, by some wreaths of vapour far down the valley, in
the direction which it was probable Manley and the sergeant had taken.
The vapour might arise from a fire they had kindled; but when I looked
again, I saw not only one, but several wreaths, or rather jets, which
made me fear that my first conjecture was wrong. However, as these jets
appeared in the right direction, I determined to go towards them.
I descended from the height, and continued my course, feeling unusually
weak and weary, when, some way along the valley, I observed several
circular holes, full of mud of different colours bubbling up, while
vapour issued from various fissures in the sides of the hills, and a
sulphureous odour pervaded the air.
Becoming more and more fatigued, at last I threw myself on the ground,
and ate a few of the thistle roots which I had fortunately brought with
me. I remember noticing a large hole not far off, but it appeared to be
empty. I felt very drowsy, and dropped off to sleep before long, my
head resting on my knees; when suddenly I became conscious of a loud
rumbling sound, while the earth beneath me seemed to shake and upheave.
Springing to my feet, what was my horror to see, close to me, a mass of
dark water and mud rising up in the shape of a column! Higher and
higher it rose, surrounded by volumes of vapour; while from its summit
was scattered far and wide thick lumps of mud. Becoming aware that I
had been sleeping close to an active mud geyser, I sprang away from the
dangerous neighbourhood, narrowly escaping being overwhelmed with the
hot and horrible mixture. The spout, or column, I should think, must
have risen to a height of nearly fifty feet; while every few seconds
loud reports were heard, and with each report a dense volume of steam
shot forth--the ground meanwhile shaking violently.
I stood watching it till, gradually decreasing, the centre part of the
column sank down into the orifice from which it had been expelled; and
within a short time all was again quiet. The mass of mud which covered
the ground, and coated even the boughs of the neighbouring trees, alone
showed the violent outbreak that had just taken place.
As I advanced the valley began to narrow. Miasmatic vapours, escaping
from holes and crevices on either side, filled the air, making it
difficult to breathe with freedom, so I hastened on, anxious to get out
of so horrible a region. To escape from it I climbed a hill, along the
side of which I made my way as fast as the uneven nature of the ground
and fallen logs and rocks would allow.
I again got into a more open country, where I became conscious of a
considerable change in the atmosphere. Hitherto the air had been
tolerably warm, though bracing; it now grew sensibly cooler. Thick
clouds were gathering in the sky. The wind, before a gentle breeze, now
rose rapidly, and blew with violence. It soon became icy cold, and
flakes of snow began to fall. Without a fire, I felt I should well-nigh
perish. At all events, before I could make a fire I must search for
some cavern in which to light it; or, failing to find a cavern, I must
build a hut. As the appearance of the ground did not indicate that
caverns were likely to exist on the side of the hill, I set to work
without delay to collect materials for building a hut; and having cut
down a number of pine branches, I stuck them in the ground, weaving
their tops together with vines, and piling as many rough pieces of bark
against the side as I could find.
In vain I watched for a gleam of sunshine, which would enable me, by
means of my burning-glass, to kindle a fire. The clouds gathered
thicker and thicker; and no hope remained of my being able to obtain the
desired spark. Taking advantage, therefore, of the remaining light, I
searched about and pulled up all the thistle roots I could find. With
this hermit-like fare, the only provender I was likely to obtain while
the storm lasted, I retired into my hut.
Scarcely had I got under shelter when down came the snow, and the whole
face of the country was speedily covered with a sheet of white. How
long the storm might last, I could not tell; it might blow over in one
or two hours, or days might elapse before it ceased. It was too early
in the year, however, to fear the setting in of winter weather, even in
that elevated region, or my condition would indeed have been deplorable.
I had kept an opening through which I could look over the valley, in
case my friends might pass that way. But night came on, and they did
not appear; so, closing up my window, I coiled myself away to sleep, as
the size of my hut would not allow me to stretch myself at full length.
I had little fear that a panther would break into my bower; but I was
not so confident that, should a grizzly scent me out, he might not poke
in his nose. Still I could trust to Him who had hitherto protected me.
I had my knife and my long stick, and, at all events, I might give
Master Bruin an unpleasant scratch on the snout, should he come within
my reach.
Notwithstanding my uncomfortable position, I was soon asleep, and did
not awake until daybreak. Had I possessed any means of cooking my
roots, I might have made a tolerably satisfactory breakfast. Indeed,
although they assisted to sustain life, they were far from wholesome
raw; still, to quell the cravings of hunger, I ate them.
The storm continued to blow with as much violence as on the previous
evening, and, lightly clad as I was, I felt that it would be rash to
continue my course till it was over. I sincerely hoped that Manley and
the sergeant had found suitable shelter. However, as they could light a
fire, and had abundance of food, I was pleased to think that they were
better off than I was.
To employ the time, I tried to manufacture some traps of such materials
as I possessed. I then bethought me that I had a fish-hook in my
pocket; but when I came to search for a line I could find none. I had,
however, a silk neckerchief; and having unravelled this, I twisted it
with the greatest care into a strong thread. It occupied a good deal of
time, but I succeeded in three or four hours in forming a line of
sufficient length for my purpose. I had plenty of loose shot, too,
which I split for weights. I then carefully rolled up the line round a
piece of wood, ready for use as soon as I should reach a lake or stream
likely to contain trout.
The storm lasted upwards of two days. Although my journey was thus
delayed, I felt sure my friends would likewise have been prevented from
travelling, and thus I was none the less likely to meet them. At length
the wind subsided, the clouds dispersed, and the sun shone forth with
dazzling brightness on the snow, which began quickly to disappear
beneath his rays.
Carrying the traps I had manufactured, and my fishing-line, I now
sallied out. I had exhausted all my roots, but as the snow cleared away
I obtained a further supply, though, hungry as I was, I still had very
little inclination to eat them raw.
I had not gone far when I came to some boiling springs; one of which,
although the water was of intense heat, was little larger than a
good-sized caldron. I threw in my roots, and sat down beside it to warm
my feet, which were benumbed with the melting snow. While my frugal
dinner was cooking, I looked about in search of my friends; but again I
was disappointed. When I thought that the roots were sufficiently
boiled, I raked them out with my stick. They were certainly more
palatable, and I hoped they would prove more nutritious.
Every hour was now of importance, for Manley and the sergeant would, I
calculated, be pushing on, under the belief that I was before them. I
had quenched my thirst with snow, for in that volcanic region I could
find no water fit to drink; it was either intensely hot, or so
impregnated with sulphur and other minerals that I was afraid to swallow
it. I saw that it would soon be necessary again to camp, so, that I
might not have to pass the night without a fire, I endeavoured to obtain
a light by means of my burning-glass, before the sun should descend too
low. The wood around was so wet that I feared, after all, I should not
succeed; but having made my way to a forest on one side of the valley, I
discovered some moss growing under the branches of a tree which had
sheltered it from the wet. Here also was abundance of dead wood. With
as much as I could carry I hurried back into the open, and sitting down,
brought the glass to bear on the now fast sinking rays of the sun. I
watched the effect with almost trembling eagerness, till, greatly to my
joy, from the small bright spot caused by the concentrated rays a thin
thread of smoke began to ascend and spread over the moss. This I blew
gently, placing over it a few twigs at a time, until I soon had a brisk
fire burning.
The place where I had lighted my fire was not one at which I wished to
camp, but once having a fire, I could carry a burning brand and ignite
another in some more convenient situation. I was not long in selecting
a spot close under a rock, where I soon had a fire blazing up. I thus
had warmth, although I was still destitute of wholesome food; and,
indeed, I found myself weaker than I had ever before been.
I was not of a disposition to give way to despondency, but sombre
thoughts would intrude. I began to fear that I might not be able to
rejoin my friends; that they, unable to find me, would suppose that I
had met with some accident, and would at length make their way to the
fort by themselves. Had I possessed my rifle and knapsack, I should
have had no fear on the subject, but the only means I had of obtaining
food were precarious; and I could not cast off the thought that, should
I continue to grow weaker, I might ultimately perish.
I was soon shown, however, that I ought not to have desponded. I was
more successful with my beaver traps than I had expected; and,
imperfectly formed as they were, I caught no less than three animals in
them, which afforded me ample food, and greatly restored my strength.
Pushing on over a wooded height, I saw below me a beautiful lake two or
three miles long, and almost as many broad. I hastened down to its
shore, and having caught some grasshoppers on the way, I quickly had my
line in the water. Having chosen a favourable spot, scarcely a moment
had passed before I hauled out a salmon-trout a pound or more in weight.
In half an hour I had caught a dozen--as many as I could carry. I
therefore camped and cooked some of the fish, which afforded me a more
satisfactory supper than I had eaten for many days.
Seeing a stream running out of the lake, I next morning followed its
course. I cannot describe the beautiful waterfalls which I passed on my
way, or the scenery, which was altogether very fine. I hastened along,
believing that the stream, from the direction it took, would lead to an
outlet among the mountains.
I had thus gone on for some miles, when the canon down which I was
travelling widened, and suddenly I saw before me a scene far more
wonderful than any I had yet witnessed. In every direction over the
broad valley, on both sides of the stream, rose a number of jets of
sparkling water far surpassing in beauty the artificial fountains in the
most celebrated gardens of royal mansions.
I hurried on, to get a more perfect sight of this wonderful region.
Suddenly, from a high mound some thirty feet or more above the level of
the plain, I saw a jet burst forth, which rose to the height of one
hundred and twenty or one hundred and thirty feet--a perfect geyser, the
first real one I had yet seen. It continued playing for fifteen minutes
or more, the mass of water falling back into the basin, and then running
over the edges and down the sides of the mound. Others were playing all
the time. As I hastened on, from another cone a column shot upwards to
a far greater height--considerably above two hundred feet, I should
say--and lasted very much longer than the first. The intervening spaces
between these geysers were covered with grass; and in many places trees
rich with foliage grew luxuriantly, showing that there was no danger in
venturing among them.
Another beautiful geyser, which burst up when I was not more than a
hundred yards from it, had the exact appearance of a fan. On examining
it, I found that it possessed a double orifice, which discharged five
radiating jets to the height of sixty feet; the drops of spray as they
fell perfectly representing the feathers of a fan. Nothing could be
more beautiful than the effect. The eruption lasted nearly thirty
minutes, the water preserving its elegant form during the whole time.
About forty feet from it dense masses of vapour ascended from a hole,
emitting at the same time loud sharp reports. As I looked along the
river I saw small craters of every conceivable form; some were
quiescent, while others poured out cascades forming small rivulets which
ran into the river.
So beautiful and curious was the scene, that for a time I forgot my
perilous position.
I had no fear of starving, as long as I had my fishing-line and traps,
and was able to light a fire; but I knew that I had a wild and rugged
road to pursue, and probably snow-capped mountains to climb, before I
could reach the western plains. It was important, therefore, to obtain
substantial fare, that I might regain my full strength for the
undertaking. I had not, of course, given up all hope of falling in with
my friends, but still I was forced to contemplate the possibility of
missing them. I wondered that we had not yet met, as I certainly
thought they would have taken the same direction that I had followed.
I must, at all events, spend another night in the valley; and I was
looking about for some place which would afford me shelter, when I saw,
a short distance off, what appeared to be a beautiful grotto--consisting
of fantastic arches, pillars, and turrets, with hollows beneath them, in
one of which I might find a comfortable sleeping-place. I determined to
explore it, and, after collecting wood for a fire, to take my rod and
line and endeavour to catch some fish in the river. I should, at all
events, have no difficulty in cooking them in one of the numerous
boiling caldrons in the neighbourhood. Directly behind the grotto was a
forest of firs, from which I could collect an ample supply of wood for
my fire, as also small branches to form my couch, should the ground
prove damp.
I was making my way towards the grotto, when I heard a rumbling sound,
and directly afterwards two jets of water spouted from its midst--one of
them rising rapidly to the height of nearly a hundred feet, when,
spreading out, down it came, the scalding water falling in a dense
shower on every side, while wreaths of steam were ejected from the
various holes which had been within their influence, the which would
speedily have parboiled me, had I not at once run off to a safe
distance. I then turned back to look at the beautiful phenomenon.
Although the jet was not so lofty as many of the other geysers, its form
was not less beautiful, assuming, as it curled over, the appearance of a
gigantic ostrich feather.
I had received a lesson not to trust to appearances, and was now very
unwilling to take up my lodgings in any one of the curious grottoes
which lay scattered about in the valley. They might be perfectly quiet,
and afford me comfortable shelter; or, proving treacherous, a stream of
hot water might burst forth from some unperceived vent and blow me fifty
feet into the air, or scald me to death. I accordingly resolved to
build myself a bower in which, although it would not afford me so much
shelter as a cavern, I might pass the night in safety.
It was necessary, however, before the sun should disappear, to light my
fire; and having fixed upon a spot, I repaired to the woods nearest at
hand to collect the fuel I had not gone far when I saw rising before me
a curious white mound, twenty-five or thirty feet in height, and about a
hundred at the base. From the summit rose a small puff of steam, like
that escaping from the lid of a kettle; but I saw, from the appearance
of the trees around it, that it could not for many years have sent forth
any dangerous stream of hot water. Not far off was a small basin with
an elegantly scalloped rim; it was full of hot water, which scarcely
bubbled over. "This will make me a capital fish-kettle," I said to
myself, "so I will build my hut near here. I do not think there can be
any risk."
Having selected a clear spot, I set to work and piled up the wood for my
fire. This was the first operation. I could build my hut in the dusk,
or even by the light of the fire, should it be necessary, after I had
caught my fish. Then taking a handful of moss into the open, with a few
dry sticks, I quickly lighted it with my burning-glass, and carrying it
back, soon had my fire in a blaze. I next made it up carefully, that it
might burn until I came back, and hurried down to the river. I was
doubtful whether trout were to be found in water into which hot streams
were constantly pouring; however, as most of them became cold before
they reached the main current, I thought it possible that I might be
successful. In the expectation of catching fish, I had omitted to set
my traps; or rather, occupied by the wonderful scenes around me, I had
forgotten all about the matter. In vain I threw in my line, baited with
an active grasshopper; not a fish would bite. I went higher up the
river, where fewer hot springs ran into it, but I was equally
unsuccessful.
The shadows beginning to spread over the valley warned me that I must
return to my camping-ground and content myself with a few thistle roots
for supper; and I had just wound up my line, when my ear caught the
sound of what appeared to be a shot fired at some distance up the
valley. It was so faint, however, that I thought it might possibly be a
sound emitted by some geyser or fire-hole. Just then a deer came
bounding along, a short distance off. On seeing me it swerved slightly
out of its course, and as it did so I perceived a stream of blood
flowing from its side.
"That _was_ a shot, then!" I exclaimed; "and my friends must have fired
it."
My first impulse was to run in the direction from whence the shot came,
but on looking at the deer I perceived that it was slackening its pace;
and after a few more bounds, down it sank to the ground, not one hundred
yards from me.