Fête at Tivoli--The Catacombs--Cemetery of Montmartre--Abattoirs--Lady
Morgan--Mrs. Opie--A Quaker Meeting.
Paris, ----.
_Dear Jane:_
We were much entertained at Tivoli. The garden was brightly
illuminated, and all sorts of amusements went on; and what a variety
of these the French have, and with what zest they partake of them! We
did our part very well too. We swung, we rode on wooden horses, we
sailed in ships, looked at a cosmorama, witnessed a phantasmagoria,
rope dancing and fire works, a play performed by puppets, and some
metamorphoses of little paste board figures, that were quite
wonderful; for instance:--a tiny lion was changed, as if by magic,
into a cupid driving a car drawn by swans, a young lady into a basket
of flowers, a butterfly into a beau, &c. &c. These transfigurations, I
think, must be produced in the following manner: Two different objects
are painted on a bit of pasteboard, one on the back and the other on
the front of it; the pasteboard is then folded into the shape of one
of them, and threads, too fine to be visible at a moderate distance,
attached to it; after exhibiting the first figure a sufficient time,
the threads are pulled and the pasteboard adroitly turned round and
thrown open, thus displaying the second figure, to the form of which
its edges are trimmed. As no person was visible, the threads were
undoubtedly passed through the scenes of the miniature stage into the
hand of the skilful operator,--for skilful he or she was who conducted
the business. When tired of strolling we entered a fine café, situated
in the centre of the garden, and refreshed ourselves with ice creams;
afterwards, attracted by the sound of music, we repaired to an open
space, where an orchestra was erected and a band of musicians were
playing quadrilles for a party of beaux and belles, who danced away
merrily, not on the _turf_ but in the sand; they were, however, so
inspired by the tones of violins and clarionets, that they moved along
as if on a board floor.
You will wonder, perhaps, how we sailed in ships without the aid of
wind or tide! I will tell you. Two poles, with a little ship suspended
by a rope from each end, were placed crosswise on a pivot, and turned
as rapidly as you chose, carrying you round and round in the air, with
an undulating motion, not dissimilar to that of a vessel at sea, and
so unpleasant to our feelings that we soon _disembarked_. This
diversion is termed "les Espagnolettes." The wooden horses are
arranged in like manner, except that they are firmly fixed on the ends
of the poles, and consequently, in riding on them you do not
experience the sickening, waving motion. The machine for swinging, is
denominated a "Balancoir." This also consists of a couple of beams
placed athwart each other, with chairs attached to their ends, which
are thrown alternately up and down. Several parties, as they glided
round on the wooden horses, amused themselves by trying to pass a
stick through a large ring which was held towards them by a woman
mounted on a bench. Whenever a ring was caught and borne off, it was
instantly replaced by another, until one of the competitors had
obtained _five_ and thus won the game. I must now change my theme and
inform you of our disappointment as respects seeing the catacombs.
They are closed at present by order of the government--I _believe_ on
account of the danger there is in visiting them. We have been to the
"cemetery of Montmartre," or "Field of Repose," as it is likewise
styled. It is of much older date than "Pére la Chaise," but not so
extensive, nor does it contain such handsome monuments; there are
however some shady, melancholy dells and moss covered tombs, that
render it peculiarly interesting. Vestris the celebrated dancer and
Very the chief of Restaurateurs, are buried there. From the cemetery
we proceeded to the "Abattoir," or "Slaughter-house of Montmartre;" an
establishment of this kind is erected in every department of the city.
Within them the butchers exercise their sanguinary functions, and the
expense of them is defrayed by taxes on the animals that are killed.
They are kept in the neatest order and composed of numerous buildings,
each of which is appropriated to a particular branch of the business.
In one the poor animals are knocked in the head; and there is a
receptacle for the blood, which trickles into it through furrows made
in the floor: in a second the carcase is skinned: in a third
quartered: in a fourth the entrails are separated and cleansed: in a
fifth the fat is boiled in an immense kettle. There are besides
spacious tables, where the unconscious victims are sheltered and amply
supplied with food and straw, while awaiting their fate. It made me
quite sad to behold them eating and reposing so calmly, and then to
think of their bloody destiny! The "Abattoirs" are liberally watered
and often washed, and therefore no disagreeable odour is perceptible
about them. I wish our butchers would follow the example of their
French brethren as regards these places!
We had the gratification of meeting with Lady Morgan last night at
Madame B----'s. Mamma had a great deal of conversation with her and
found her extremely affable and agreeable. You know we were told she
was ugly--we do not think her so, but she certainly dresses too
girlishly, rouges too highly and seems too desirous of admiration.
This cannot be said of Mrs. Opie, to whom we were also introduced. She
was as plain in her attire as a dark grey silk gown and a white muslin
kerchief and cap could make her. In her manners she is unaffected, in
her conversation animated and intelligent. Her countenance is open and
expressive of her lively mind. The moment we beheld her we recognized
her as a lady we had seen at a quaker meeting which we attended from
motives of curiosity on Sunday. A quaker meeting in Paris! you will
exclaim. Even so my dear, for what is there on the face of the earth
(that depends not on _soil_ or _climate_) which may not be found in
this bustling capital? The meeting was held in a house in the Champs
Elysèes, belonging to a quaker family with whom Mr. D. was acquainted,
and who gave him a cheerful permission to bring with him whenever he
wished it, any friends desirous of going there. We were shewn into a
neat parlor, where about twenty persons were sitting in solemn
silence, and for nearly an hour not a sound was heard, save the
occasional sneezes of an old lady who had a violent cold in her head.
At length however the spirit moved a dark eyed gentleman and he gave
us a tolerable sermon. I conclude with love from all of us to
yourself, aunt M. and Albert, and to our relations and friends in the
vicinity of Morven Lodge. I have not always room for affectionate
messages, or be assured they would always be inserted.