[Illustration: Swainson’s Hawk]
This sector is known chiefly for its large concentrations of breeding
waterfowl and for its prairie specialties, such as the Baird’s Sparrow.
The density of nesting waterbirds (not just ducks, but also grebes,
cormorants, herons, etc.) is truly spectacular, and the number and
abundance of prairie specialties would warm the heart of any lister.
Another dimension to this sector (in addition to the lakes, potholes,
prairie grasslands, and wooded coulees) is the badlands habitat with
many western species at the edge of their ranges.
Because of the unique blend of habitats, the northwestern sector is
strongly recommended to the visiting birder for top priority. If you are
limited in time, a tour of the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National
Park and of the refuges around Kenmare should enable you to see most of
the state’s specialties. While a visit between the months of September
and April could be more profitably spent in some other part of the
state, you could hardly go wrong in visiting here between May and
August.
a) Dunn County
As mentioned, badlands habitat does exist in the northwest sector. Its
easternmost extension is found around the Little Missouri State Park. To
reach it, go north from the town of Killdeer on State Highway 22 for
about 17 miles, turn right (east) at the sign for the park, and proceed
to the camping area.
This is still a primitive area, and the campground is not developed. All
trails are for hiking and horseback riding only. If your time is
limited, forget this spot and go on to the North unit of Roosevelt Park.
However, if you enjoy the peace and solitude of primitive areas, this is
the place for you.
The park has not been birded much, so it is hard to say what you may
find. Judging from the habitat, almost any badlands-type bird could be
found. Some of the likely ones include Say’s Phoebe, Black-billed
Magpie, Mountain Bluebird, and Lazuli Bunting.
b) McKenzie County
[Illustration: North Unit Roosevelt Memorial]
One of the most interesting and unique places to bird in the state has
to be the North Unit of Theodore Roosevelt National Memorial. Most of
the western species which inhabit the south unit can be found here also,
and most birders who have visited both units agree that the north unit
is better. This may be true partly because people-pressure is greater in
the south unit, which lies right along the interstate.
To reach the park, go south from Watford City on U.S. Highway 85 for
about 15 miles and turn right (west) at the sign. The headquarters are
at the entrance.
The most productive birding spot is Squaw Creek Campgrounds, which is
5.1 miles from the headquarters. There are large trees (mostly
cottonwoods) as well as an ample understory in many places. Breeding
species include Common Flicker (both Red-shafted and Yellow-shafted, as
well as many hybrids), Downy Woodpecker, Willow Flycatcher, Western
Pewee (rare), Black-capped Chickadee, Brown Thrasher, Gray Catbird,
Red-eyed and Warbling Vireos, Black-and-white Warbler, Ovenbird,
Yellow-breasted Chat, American Redstart, Lazuli Bunting, Black-headed
Grosbeak, Rufous-sided Towhee (spotted race), and Field Sparrow (open
areas adjacent to the campgrounds). This is one of the most consistent
locations in the state for finding the chat, bunting, and grosbeak. By
making a careful check of the cottonwoods, you should be able to turn up
several Common Nighthawks, which rest on the more horizontal limbs
during the day.
Besides providing good nesting habitat, the wooded areas and thickets
along the river serve to attract numbers of migrants and wintering
species. In winter watch for Northern Goshawk (rare), Ring-necked
Pheasant (willow thickets), Great Horned Owl, Downy and Hairy
Woodpeckers, American Crow, Black-billed Magpie (more-open areas),
Black-capped Chickadee, White-breasted Nuthatch, American Robin,
Bohemian and Cedar Waxwings, Northern Shrike (willow thickets), Evening
Grosbeak, Common Redpoll (willow thickets), and American Tree Sparrow
(willow thickets).
[Illustration: Squaw Creek Campground]
The rest of the park is mostly short-grass prairie mixed with large
patches of sage, rolling hills spotted with junipers, and sharply eroded
buttes streaked with colorful veins of clay and mineral deposits. The
birds to be found in the open areas are Swainson’s and Ferruginous
Hawks; Prairie Falcon; American Kestrel; Golden Eagle; Sharp-tailed
Grouse; Black-billed Magpie; Mountain Bluebird; Western Meadowlark;
Field, Grasshopper, and Lark Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared Longspur.
The Say’s Phoebe and Rock Wren should be watched for (and listened for)
around eroded buttes, sharp cuts, and under bridges.
You will probably see few birds in the open areas of the park in winter,
but look for Rough-legged Hawk, Golden Eagle, Sharp-tailed Grouse, Gray
Partridge (prefers cultivated fields), Snowy and Short-eared Owls,
Horned Lark, Black-billed Magpie, Northern Shrike, Western Meadowlark,
American Goldfinch, Common Redpoll, and American Tree Sparrow. In early
and mid-November Sandhill Cranes pass over the badlands by the hundreds.
The park personnel can provide a detailed list of nature trails. One
that merits mention is the Caprock Coulee Nature Trail, which winds
through an area of junipers. Even though you will not be overwhelmed
with birds, the trail is an interesting one. Look for Golden Eagle,
Mountain Bluebird, Rufous-sided Towhee, Field Sparrow, Coyote, and Mule
Deer. This trail is a consistent spot for seeing Mountain Bluebirds.
Each year there are usually a couple of nesting pairs.
Another trail takes off from the Caprock Coulee Trail and leads over the
ridge to a prairie-dog town, where the dogs are much wilder than those
of the roadside colonies. Since the colony is somewhat remote, your
chances are better for finding a Burrowing Owl. At any rate, you should
find Black-billed Magpie, Western Meadowlark, and Field Sparrow.
For a pleasant place to camp, go south on Highway 85 from the park for
4.8 miles and turn right (west) to the Custer National Forest Summit
Campgrounds (not deluxe but more than adequate). There is a nice scenic
overlook, and you may even find some good birds. Wild Turkeys may be
seen in nearby ravines.
A fine marsh can be found just south of Williston (the second largest
town in the northwestern sector) in northern McKenzie County. From U.S.
Highway 2 just west of town, go south on Highway 85 for 2.3 miles and
cross the Missouri River. For the next couple of miles the road
transects fine marshlands, which should be checked for all of the usual
waterbirds.
c) McLean County
One of the better locations for transient and breeding waterbirds and
grasslands species is the Audubon National Wildlife Refuge. To reach it,
go north on U.S. Highway 83 from County Road #48 north of Coleharbor for
2.8 miles and turn right (east). After 0.5 mile, turn left to the
headquarters for a map, birdlist, and current information.
This refuge (formerly Snake Creek Refuge) was renamed in honor of John
James Audubon, who made one of his last painting and collecting
expeditions to this area in 1843. About the only thing that has not
changed since he was here is the extremely rich birdlife.
Most of the transient ducks and shorebirds common to the state can be
found in migration. Probably the most exciting migrant is the Whooping
Crane (rare), which occasionally stops on its way to or from the
breeding grounds in Canada. Hundreds of Sandhill Cranes put in an
appearance each spring and fall. Some of the other interesting migrants
include Greater White-fronted Goose, Common Goldeneye, Golden and Bald
Eagles (also in winter), Osprey (rare), Peregrine Falcon (rare),
California Gull (actually a summer visitor), Short-eared Owl
(occasionally nests), and Harris’ Sparrow (tree lines).
Although it is migration that brings the rarities, summer is just as
exciting. Audubon Refuge has a great variety of habitats, including
mixed-grass prairie, open water, marshy bays of the reservoir, prairie
potholes, and salt-grass marshes. This makes for a tremendous diversity
of breeding birds. Some of the more interesting ones are: Horned, Eared,
and Western Grebes; American White Pelican (summers in good numbers but
does not nest); Double-crested Cormorant; Black-crowned Night Heron;
American Bittern; Canada Goose (reintroduced nester); Mallard; Gadwall;
Common Pintail; Blue-winged and Green-winged Teals; American Wigeon;
Northern Shoveler; Redhead; Canvasback; Lesser Scaup; Ruddy Duck;
Northern Harrier; Swainson’s and Ferruginous Hawks; Sharp-tailed Grouse;
Ring-necked Pheasant; Gray Partridge; Sora; Virginia Rail; Upland
Sandpiper; Willet; Marbled Godwit; American Avocet; Wilson’s Phalarope;
Ring-billed and Franklin’s (visitor) Gulls; Common and Black Terns;
Black-billed Cuckoo; Burrowing Owl; Eastern and Western Kingbirds; Marsh
Wren; Brown Thrasher; Sprague’s Pipit; Bobolink; Western Meadowlark;
Yellow-headed Blackbird; Dickcissel; Lark Bunting; Savannah,
Grasshopper, Baird’s, Le Conte’s, Sharp-tailed (rare), Vesper, and
Clay-colored Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared Longspur.
The nearest lodging accommodations are at Garrison and Riverdale.
Coleharbor has service stations and a cafe.
d) Burke and Mountrail Counties
Lostwood National Wildlife Refuge is one of the better ones in the
state. To reach it, start at the northern edge of Stanley, go north from
Highway 2 on Highway 8 for 21.6 miles and turn left (west) at the sign.
From here it is just a short way to the headquarters, where you can pick
up a refuge map and checklist, and obtain up-to-date information about
road conditions and desired species. (The resident dog is dangerous, so
exercise appropriate caution.)
Lostwood consists basically of rolling hills dotted with potholes.
Mixed-grass prairie is the dominant habitat, but there are several
shelter-belts and small woodlots as well as numerous wetlands. The major
difference between Lostwood and other refuges in the northwest sector is
the presence of several alkaline lakes providing attractive habitat for
Piping Plover, American Avocet, and California Gull.
Waterfowl concentrations in spring, summer, and fall border on the
spectacular. The purely transient species are the Greater White-fronted
and Snow Geese, Whistling Swan, Common Goldeneye, Bufflehead, and Common
and Red-breasted Mergansers. The ducks which nest are the Mallard,
Gadwall, Common Pintail, Blue-winged and Green-winged Teals, American
Wigeon, Northern Shoveler, Redhead, Ring-necked Duck, Canvasback, Lesser
Scaup, and Ruddy Duck.
Other waterbirds which summer on the refuge are Horned (uncommon),
Eared, Western, and Pied-billed Grebes; American White Pelican;
Double-crested Cormorant; Great Blue Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron;
American Bittern; Virginia Rail; Sora; American Coot; Piping Plover
(alkaline lakes); Spotted Sandpiper; Willet; Marbled Godwit; American
Avocet; Wilson’s Phalarope; California (uncommon visitor), Ring-billed,
and Franklin’s Gulls; and Forster’s, Common, and Black Terns. Other
species to look for around water areas include Short-eared Owl, Belted
Kingfisher, Willow Flycatcher (boggy areas), all of the swallow species
found in the state, Marsh Wren, Sedge Wren (wet meadows), Red-winged and
Yellow-headed Blackbirds, and Le Conte’s and Sharp-tailed Sparrows (wet
grassy areas).
In the prairie areas look for Red-tailed and Swainson’s Hawks; Northern
Harrier; Sharp-tailed Grouse; Gray Partridge; Upland Sandpiper; Eastern
and Western Kingbirds; Horned Lark; Sprague’s Pipit; Loggerhead Shrike;
Bobolink; Western Meadowlark; Lark Bunting; Savannah, Grasshopper,
Baird’s, Vesper, and Clay-colored Sparrows; and Chestnut-collared
Longspur.
[Illustration: WARD COUNTY]
e) Ward County
There are few avid listers who have not heard about the area surrounding
Kenmare. The town has become famous in birding circles largely because
of the field work done there by Ann and Bob Gammell, and because of
their hospitality in showing off the area’s specialties to visiting
birders. Perhaps the single factor which generated the most publicity
about Kenmare and its birds was the American Birding Association’s first
convention, which was held here in June of 1973. Birders who attended
were astounded by the density and diversity of birds to be found
breeding throughout the prairie-pothole country.
What makes Kenmare so special? For one thing, it is surrounded by
national wildlife refuges. The town itself lies right in the middle of
Des Lacs National Wildlife Refuge. Lostwood Refuge is only a short
distance to the southwest while Upper Souris Refuge is just to the
southeast. These three areas contain almost every major habitat type to
be found in the region, and Kenmare makes a great base for exploring all
three. The town is not large (1,515 people as of 1970), but there are
several gas stations, stores, cafes, and motels.
[Illustration: Des Lacs Refuge]
The best birding spot is Des Lacs National Wildlife Refuge. This large
refuge (about 19,000 acres), following the Des Lacs River Valley,
extends from the Canadian border to a point about eight miles south of
Kenmare. The river valley contains both open-water lakes and marshlands.
Bordering the valley is mixed-grass prairie punctuated by numerous
wooded coolees (trenchlike wooded ravines).
Because this refuge is so large, it is here divided into three routes
which cover most of the better areas. Caution: After heavy rain all of
these routes can be almost impassable.
Route #1) Tasker’s Coulee and Refuge Headquarters. This trip begins in
Kenmare. From U.S. Highway 52 go west on Highway 2 (6th Street
Northeast). When it swings right after 1.1 miles, continue straight on
County Road #1 (south). At this point you have been transecting part of
the lake. Watch for Western and Eared Grebes. After 0.4 mile turn left
to the headquarters for a checklist, map, and current information on
road conditions. The wooded area surrounding the buildings may provide
good birding, especially during migration. In summer look for
Black-billed Cuckoo, Great Horned Owl, Common Flicker, Eastern and
Western Kingbirds (margins), Eastern Pewee, Least Flycatcher, House
Wren, Brown Thrasher, Gray Catbird, Cedar Waxwing, Warbling Vireo,
Yellow Warbler, Orchard Oriole, and American Goldfinch (margins).
To reach Tasker’s Coulee return to County Road #1 and continue south.
Bear left on County Road #1A as it heads up the hill. About 1.7 miles
past the turn-off to the headquarters, turn left at the sign saying
“Recreation Area”. After 0.5 mile you will descend into Tasker’s Coulee
Recreation Area.
This coulee is well wooded with American elm, green ash, box elder,
aspen, and several kinds of shrubs—including wild plum.
Many species of birds nest here with a great many more stopping during
migration. Among the nesting species are Cooper’s Hawk, Black-billed
Cuckoo, Great Horned and Long-eared Owls, Common Flicker, Downy
Woodpecker, Eastern Kingbird, Eastern Phoebe, Willow (borders) and Least
Flycatchers, House Wren, Brown Thrasher, Gray Catbird, Veery, Red-eyed
and Warbling Vireos, American Redstart, Ovenbird, Black-and-white and
Yellow Warblers, Northern Oriole, American Goldfinch, Rufous-sided
Towhee (spotted race), and Clay-colored Sparrow.
Route #2) The Old Lake Road. The starting point for this tour is along
County Road #1A at the turn-off to Tasker’s Coulee. Continue from the
turn-off for 2.0 miles and turn left on Ward County Road #4. After 2.8
miles swing to the left. After 6.1 miles on County Road #4 turn left on
Highway 52. Turn left again (0.5 mile) on a dirt road marked by a refuge
sign. This will take you along the lake back to Kenmare. It makes for
excellent birding because the lake with its reedy border will be on your
left, while to your right are grassy hillsides peppered with several
shrubby thickets. In the latter habitat watch for Swainson’s Hawk,
Eastern Kingbird, Willow Flycatcher, Brown Thrasher, Gray Catbird, and
Clay-colored Sparrow.
The lake itself is especially good for grebes (Western Grebe should be
easy.); American White Pelican; Double-crested Cormorant; ducks and
geese; Black, Forster’s, and Common Terns; and Ring-billed, Franklin’s,
Herring, California, and Bonaparte’s Gulls (the latter three occur only
as uncommon migrants or summer visitors). Large numbers of shorebirds
feed along the open shore or on mudflats during spring migration and
from July to October. Some of the shorebirds to be seen are Semipalmated
Plover; Killdeer; Ruddy Turnstone (rare); Lesser Golden Plover (uncommon
to rare); Willet; Greater and Lesser Yellowlegs; Spotted, Solitary,
Pectoral, White-rumped (uncommon), Baird’s, Least, Stilt, and
Semipalmated Sandpipers; Long-billed Dowitcher; Marbled Godwit; American
Avocet; and Wilson’s and Northern Phalaropes. The reedy borders of the
lake should be watched for Great Blue Heron, Black-crowned Night Heron,
American Bittern, Virginia Rail, and Sora. Check the reeds for Marsh
Wren and the taller grass closer to the road for Sedge Wren.
Go 2.0 miles to a small bridge under which dozens of Cliff Swallows
nest. All of the other swallow species found in the state can be seen
along this road. After 7.2 miles you will come out on Central Avenue.
Route #3) Boating Area Road and Sharp-tailed Grouse Photo Blind. This
tour begins at Highways 52 and 2 (6th Street Northeast) in Kenmare. Turn
west on Highway 2. Drive 1.0 mile and turn right (west) on Ward County
Road #2. The grassy marsh on your left can be excellent for bitterns,
rails, swallows, and Black Terns. After 0.7 mile turn right on a gravel
road going north. Cross the railroad tracks, pull over to the side, and
walk the meadow to your right. This area has been good in the past for
Le Conte’s and Sharp-tailed Sparrows. Watch also for Willow Flycatcher,
Common Yellowthroat, Bobolink, and Savannah Sparrow.
Continuing along Upper Des Lacs Lake, you should see all of the grebes,
pelicans, cormorants, ducks, gulls, terns, swallows, and blackbirds seen
on the preceding tour, but this route is not as good for shorebirds or
marsh species. The road is bordered for some way by a wooded area
(primarily second-growth) with all of the normal nesting and migrant
passerines.
After 4.0 miles you will see a boating and picnic area to the right.
Just beyond this, turn left. Turn right at the yield sign (0.8 mile),
and then turn right again on Highway 52 (5.0 miles). After 0.9 mile turn
left on a gravel road and immediately pull off to the right at a dirt
road by a gate. (There should be a small refuge sign on it.) By walking
past the gate and following the trail, you will come to a photo blind
overlooking a Sharp-tailed Grouse dancing ground. During spring as many
as 40-60 birds may be seen displaying. The blind may be used for
photography or simple observation. However, you are required to check
with refuge personnel before entering.
To return to Kenmare, continue past the turn-off to the blind for 11.0
miles to Highways 52 and 2.
The bird which brings more birders to Kenmare (and to North Dakota for
that matter) than any other has to be the Baird’s Sparrow. While it can
be found in appropriate habitat over most of the state, there is one
place where it is probably easier to find than in any other—Longspur
Pasture, a privately owned area of mixed-grass prairie encompassing
several acres. To reach it, start at Highway 52 in Kenmare. Turn west on
Highway 2, go 1.0 mile, and turn right (northwest) on Ward County Road
#2. After about 6.0 miles go straight west on Ward County Road #2A for
3.0 miles to an old country school-house on your right. Go another 1.5
miles and pull over just beyond two small tree rows. Longspur Pasture is
the fenced, grassy field on the left (south) (west of the tree rows).
Cross the fence to bird, but remember that this is private land and
should be respected as such. Cattle are sometimes encountered in the
pasture.
This quarter-section of relatively unspoiled prairie may not look like
much, but it is one of the most productive spots around for finding the
prairie specialties. Sprague’s Pipit, Baird’s Sparrow, and
Chestnut-collared Longspur are almost a sure thing between mid-May and
mid-August (the longspurs may leave by early August). Other species
which may be encountered are Gray Partridge, Marbled Godwit, Burrowing
Owl, Horned Lark, Western Meadowlark, and Savannah and Grasshopper
Sparrows. Pronghorn Antelope sometimes come to the small waterhole to
drink.
You may have to walk south into the field where the grass gets a little
taller to find the Baird’s Sparrow. It likes to sing from the patches of
wolfberry and silverberry. During the early stages of the nesting
season, it is quite conspicuous. Later in summer singing diminishes, and
the bird becomes a little harder to find. At this time it also seems to
stick closer to the ground. However, you can still get good views by
herding it toward a patch of wolfberry or silverberry. After being
flushed a couple of times, the sparrow will often fly to the shrub and
perch in plain view nervously repeating its call note, which is quite
like that of the Savannah Sparrow (a sharp “chik”).
The Sprague’s Pipit may be slightly harder to see well. It prefers to
stay on the ground where it is difficult to spot because of the grass.
When flushed, it usually flies a short way and drops back into the
grass. Unlike the Baird’s Sparrow, the pipit may be hardest to see when
singing because it sings while on the wing (like a Horned Lark) and
sometimes at amazingly high altitudes. At Longspur Pasture you will
often hear its “swishing” song from overhead without being able to see
the bird. Do not be discouraged by all of this. You may still get a good
look at the Sprague’s Pipit. In spring and early summer it often perches
on fence posts or sits around the muddy edges of the stock pond, where
the grass does not obscure the view.
[Illustration: Longspur Pasture]
Still one more large refuge in the northwest sector is Upper Souris
National Wildlife Refuge. Although generally not as productive as
Lostwood or Des Lacs, it is a good spring-through-fall birding location.
The starting point is Foxholm (northwest of Minot on Highway 52). From
the center of town (Miller’s Bar) go 0.7 mile north on U.S. Highway 52
and turn right on Ward County Road #11 at the flying goose sign. Go 5.6
miles, turn right, and after 0.8 mile turn left to the headquarters.
The best habitat is marshland behind locked gates. By asking at the
headquarters, you may be able to obtain a key. Besides passing through
marshland, these roads thread brushy pastures and wooded areas.
Some of the species on the marshes include Pied-billed, Eared, Horned,
Western, and Red-necked (uncommon) Grebes; American White Pelican;
Double-crested Cormorant; Great Blue Heron; Black-crowned Night Heron;
American Bittern; all of the ducks, geese, shorebirds, gulls, and terns
normal to the sector; American Coot; Virginia Rail; Sora; all of the
state’s swallows; Marsh Wren; Common Yellowthroat; Yellow-headed,
Red-winged, and Brewer’s Blackbirds; and Song, Sharp-tailed (uncommon),
and Le Conte’s (common) Sparrows.
In the brushy pastures and wooded areas, you may see Eastern Kingbird,
Willow Flycatcher, Least Flycatcher, Eastern Pewee, Sedge Wren
(tall-grass areas), Brown Thrasher, Gray Catbird, Cedar Waxwing, Yellow
Warbler, Bobolink, Northern Oriole, and Song and Clay-colored Sparrows.
These wooded areas are especially productive during migration for
transient passerines.
f) Divide County
[Illustration: Upper Souris Refuge]
One of the better places is a large alkaline lake near Westby on the
Montana-North Dakota line. To find it, start in the center of town (by
the large grain elevator), and drive east on State Highway 5 for 2.3
miles before turning left (north) on a gravel road. Watch for
Chestnut-collared Longspurs. After 2.0 miles you should be able to see
the south end of the lake on the left. The main portion will be visible
for the next few miles, and the whole distance should be driven.
This is the site of one of the few active California Gull colonies in
North Dakota. Ring-billed Gulls also nest, so care should be exercised
in identification. Most of the grebes, ducks, waders, and shorebirds
common to the western half of the state can be found—often in good
numbers. Sprague’s Pipits and Baird’s Sparrows should be watched for in
grassy areas.
If you still need McCown’s Longspur, get back on State Highway 5 and
head east to Crosby. Check the stubble fields adjacent to the highway
for several miles on all sides of town.