CHAPTER XIII.

Visit to Dresden. The Wiecks. Von Bülow. A Child Prodigy. Grantzow,

the Dancer.

BERLIN, _February 10, 1872_.

A week ago last Monday I went to Dresden with J. L. to visit B. H. We

got there at about five in the afternoon, and were met at the station by

B.'s maid, who conducted us straightway to their house in Christian

Strasse. B. and Mrs. H. received us with the greatest cordiality, and we

had a splendid time. I came home only the day before yesterday, and J.

is still there. The H.'s have a charming lodging, and Mrs. H. is a

capital housekeeper. The _cuisine_ was excellent, and you can imagine

how I enjoyed an American breakfast once more, after nothing but "rolls

and coffee" for two years. B. did everything in her power to amuse us,

and she is the soul of amiability. She kept inviting people to meet us,

and had several tea-parties, and when we had no company she took us to

the theatre or the opera. She invited Marie Wieck (the sister of Clara

Schumann) to tea one night. I was very glad to meet her, for she is an

exquisite artist herself, and plays in Clara Schumann's style, though

her conception is not so remarkable. Her touch is perfect. At B.'s

request she tried to play for us, but the action of B.'s piano did not

suit her, and she presently got up, saying that she could do nothing on

that instrument, but that if we would come to _her_, she would play for

us with pleasure.

I was in high glee at that proposal, for I was very anxious to see the

famous Wieck, the trainer of so many generations of musicians. Fräulein

Wieck appointed Saturday evening, and we accordingly went. B. had

instructed us how to act, for the old man is quite a character, and has

to be dealt with after his own fashion. She said we must walk in (having

first laid off our things) as if we had been members of the family all

our lives, and say, "Good-evening, Papa Wieck,"--(everybody calls him

Papa). Then we were to seat ourselves, and if we had some knitting or

sewing with us it would be well. At any rate we must have the apparent

intention of spending several hours, for nothing provokes him so as to

have people come in simply to call. "What!" he will say, "do you expect

to know a celebrated man like me in half an hour?" then (very

sarcastically), "perhaps you want my autograph!" He hates to give his

autograph.

Well, we went through the prescribed programme. We were ushered into a

large room, much longer than it was broad. At either end stood a grand

piano. Otherwise the room was furnished with the greatest simplicity. My

impression is that the floor was a plain yellow painted one, with a rug

or two here and there. A few portraits and bas-reliefs hung upon the

walls. The pianos were of course fine. Frau Wieck and "Papa" received us

graciously. We began by taking tea, but soon the old man became

impatient, and said, "Come! the ladies wish to perform (_vortragen_)

something before me, and if we don't begin we shan't accomplish

anything." He _lives_ entirely in music, and has a class of girls whom

he instructs every evening for nothing. Five of these young girls were

there. He is very deaf, but strange to say, he is as sensitive as ever

to every musical sound, and the same is the case with Clara Schumann.

Fräulein Wieck then opened the ball. She is about forty, I should think,

and a stout, phlegmatic-looking woman. However, she played superbly, and

her touch is one of the most delicious possible. After hearing her, one

is not surprised that the Wiecks think nobody can teach touch but

themselves. She began with a nocturne by Chopin, in F major. I forgot to

say that the old Herr sits in his chair with the air of being on a

throne, and announces beforehand each piece that is to be played,

following it with some comment: _e. g._, "This nocturne I allowed my

daughter Clara to play in Berlin forty years ago, and afterward the

principal newspaper in criticising her performance, remarked: 'This

young girl seems to have much talent; it is only a pity that she is in

the hands of a father whose head seems stuck full of queer new-fangled

notions,'--so new was Chopin to the public at that time." That is the

way he goes on.

After Fräulein Wieck had finished the nocturne, I asked for something by

Bach, which I'm told she plays remarkably. She said that at the moment

she had nothing in practice by Bach, but she would play me a _gigue_ by

a composer of Bach's time,--Haesler, I think she said, but cannot

remember, as it was a name entirely unknown to me. It was very

brilliant, and she executed it beautifully. Afterward she played the

last movement of Beethoven's Sonata in E flat major, but I wasn't

particularly struck with her conception of that. Then we had a pause,

and she urged me to play. I refused, for as I had been in Dresden a week

and had not practiced, I did not wish to sit down and not do myself

justice. My hand is so stiff, that as Tausig said of himself (though of

him I can hardly believe it), "When I haven't practiced for fourteen

days I can't do anything." The old Herr then said, "Now we'll have

something else;" and got up and went to the piano, and called the young

girls. He made three of them sing, one after the other, and they sang

very charmingly indeed. One of them he made improvise a _cadenza_, and a

second sang the alto to it without accompaniment. He was very proud of

that. He exercises his pupils in all sorts of ways, trains them to sing

any given tone, and "to skip up and down the ladder," as they call the

scale.

After the master had finished with the singing, Fräulein Wieck played

three more pieces, one of which was an exquisite arrangement by Liszt of

that song by Schumann, "_Du meine Seele_." She ended with a _gavotte_ by

Glück, or as Papa Wieck would say, "This is a gavotte from one of

Glück's operas, arranged by Brahms for the piano. To the superficial

observer the second movement will appear very easy, but in _my_ opinion

it is a very hard task to hit it exactly." I happened to know just how

the thing ought to be played, for I had heard it three times from Clara

Schumann herself. Fräulein Wieck didn't please me at all in it, for she

took the second movement twice as quickly as the first. "Your sister

plays the second movement much slower," said I. "_So?_" said she, "I've

never heard it from her." She then asked, "So slow?" playing it slower.

"Still slower?" said she, beginning a third time, at my continual

disapproval. "_Streng im Tempo_ (in strict time)", said I, nodding my

head oracularly. "_Väterchen_." called she to the old Herr, "Miss Fay

says that Clara plays the second movement _so_ slow," showing him. I

don't know whether this correction made an impression, but he was then

_determined_ that I should play, and on my continued refusal he finally

said that he found it very strange that a young lady who had studied

more than two years in Tausig's and Kullak's conservatories shouldn't

have _one_ piece that she could play before people. This little fling

provoked me, so up I jumped, and saying to myself, "_Kopf in die Höhe,

Brust heraus,--vorwärts!_" (one of the military orders here), I marched

to the piano and played the fugue at the end of Beethoven's A flat

Sonata, Op. 110. They all sat round the room as still as so many statues

while I played, and you cannot imagine how dreadfully nervous I was. I

thought fifty times I would have to stop, for, like all fugues, it is

such a piece that if you once get out you never can get in again, and

Bülow himself got mixed up on the last part of it the other night in his

concert. But I got well through, notwithstanding, and the old master was

good enough to commend me warmly. He told me I must have studied a

great deal, and asked me if I hadn't played a great many _Etuden_. I

informed him in polite German "He'd better believe I had!"

I should like to study with the Wiecks in my vacation next summer if

they would take me. Perhaps I may. They are considered somewhat

old-fashioned in their style, and I shouldn't wish to exchange Kullak

for them, but they are _such_ veterans that one could not help getting

many valuable ideas from them. Papa Wieck used to be Bülow's master

before he went to Liszt.

Did I tell you how carried away with Bülow I was? He is magnificent, and

just between Rubinstein and Tausig. I am going to hear him again on

Saturday, and then I'll write you my full opinion about him. He is

famous for his playing of Beethoven, and I wish you could have heard the

Moonlight Sonata from him. One thing he does which is entirely peculiar

to himself. He runs all the movements of a sonata together, instead of

pausing between. It pleased me very much, as it gives a _unity_ of

effect, and seems to make each movement beget the succeeding one.

BERLIN, _May 30, 1872_.

I wish L. were here studying piano with Kullak's son. He has one little

fairy of a scholar ten years old. Her name is Adele aus der Ohe--(isn't

that an old knightly name?)--and it is the most astonishing thing to

hear that child play! I heard her play a concerto of Beethoven's the

other day with orchestral accompaniment and a great cadenza by

Moscheles, absolutely _perfectly_. She never missed a note the whole way

through. I suppose she will become, like Mehlig, a great artist. But

perhaps, like her, she won't have a great conception, but will do

everything mechanically. One never can tell how these child-prodigies

will turn out.--Please don't form any exalted ideas of _my_ playing! I'm

a pretty stupid girl, and go forward slowly. I never expect to play as

Miss Mehlig does. If I can ever get up to Topp, I shall be satisfied.

You wouldn't believe how long it takes to get to be a virtuoso unless

you tried it. Mehlig, you know, studied steadily for ten years, under

the _best_ of teaching all the time, and she had probably more talent to

start with than I have. Miss V. and Mr. G. have been here _five_ years

studying steadily, and they are no farther than I am now. Not so far. It

makes all the difference in the world what kind of hand and wrist a

person has. Mine, you know, were pretty stiff, and then it is a great

disadvantage to begin studying after one is grown up. One ought to be

learning while the hand is forming.

I am just now learning that A minor concerto of Schumann's that Topp

played at the Handel and Haydn Festival in Boston. The cadenza is tough,

I can tell you. That is the worst of these concertos. There is always a

grand cadenza where you must play all alone and "make a splurge." I

don't know how it feels to be left all at once without any support from

the orchestra. It is bad enough when Kullak lies back in his chair and

ceases accompanying me. He plays with me on two pianos, and I get so

excited that my wrists tremble. He is a magnificent pianist, and his

technique is perfect. There's nothing he can't do. Like all artists, he

is as capricious and exasperating as he can be, and, as the Germans say,

he is "_ein Mal im Himmel und das nächste Mal im Keller_ (one time in

heaven and the next time in the cellar)!" He has a deep rooted prejudice

against Americans, and never loses an opportunity to make a mean remark

about them, and though he has some remarkably gifted ones among his

scholars, he always insists upon it that the Americans have no real

talent. As far as I know anything about his conservatorium just now, his

_most_ talented scholars are Americans. There is a young fellow named

Sherwood, who is only seventeen years old, and he not only plays

splendidly but composes beautifully, also. In my own class Miss B. and I

are far ahead of all the others. Kullak will praise us very

enthusiastically, and then when some one plays particularly badly in the

class he will say to them, "Why, Fräulein, you play exactly as if you

came from America." It makes Miss B. and me so indignant that we don't

know what to do. Of course we can't say anything, for he addresses this

remark in a lofty way to the whole class. Miss V. couldn't bear Kullak,

and the other day, when she and Mr. G. were taking leave of him to go to

America, she let him see it. He said to her, "And when shall I see you

again?" "_Never_," exclaimed she! We have only one way of revenging

ourselves, and that is when he gives us the choice of taking one of his

compositions or a piece by some one else, always to take the other

person's. For instance, he said to me, "Fräulein, you can take

Schumann's concerto or _my_ concerto." I immediately got Schumann's.

The other night I went to see a great ballet-dancer. Her name is

Fräulein Grantzow, and she is the court dancer at St. Petersburg, where

I've heard that the ballet surpasses everything of the kind in the

world. This danseuse is a wonder, and they say there has never been such

dancing since the days of Fanny Ellsler. She has the figure of a Venus,

and the most expressive face imaginable. When she dances, it is not only

dancing, but a complete representation of character, for she plays a

rôle by her motions just the same as if she were an actress. I have seen

many a ballet, but I never conceived what an art dancing is before. I

saw her in "Esmeralda," a ballet which is arranged from Victor Hugo's

romance and modified for the stage. Fräulein Grantzow took the part of

Esmeralda. In the first act a man is condemned to death, but is pardoned

on condition that one of the women present will promise to marry him.

The women, represented by about fifty ballet dancers, come up one after

the other, contemplate the poor victim, pirouette round him, and reject

him in turn with a gesture of contempt. At last Esmeralda (a gypsy)

comes dancing along, asks what is the matter, and on being told, has

compassion on the poor wretch, and promises to marry him in order to

save him from his fate.

When the time came for Grantzow to appear, the crowd of dancers

suddenly divided, and she bounded out from the back of the stage. _Such_

an apparition as she was! In the first place her toilettes surpassed

everything, and she appeared in a fresh dress in every act. In this

first one she had on a most dazzling shade of green gauze for her skirt.

From her waist fell a golden net-work, like a cestus, with little golden

tassels all round. She wore a little scarlet satin jacket all fringed

with gold coins, and a broad golden belt, pointed in front, clasped her

waist. On her head was a tiny scarlet cap, also fringed with coins, and

she had some golden bangles round her neck. In her hand was a tambourine

from which depended four knots of coloured ribbons with long ends.

Shaking her tambourine high in the air, out she sprang like a panther,

made one magnificent circuit all round the stage, and after executing an

immensely difficult _pas_ with perfect ease, she suddenly posed to the

audience in the most ravishing and impossible attitude and with the most

captivating grace conceivable. Anything like her _élan_, her _aplomb_, I

never saw. Such a daring creature! Well, I cannot tell you all the

things she did. She is a perfect Terpsichorean genius. All through the

first act she danced very slowly, merely to show her wonderful grace,

and the beauty and originality of her positions. She had a way of

folding her arms over her breast and dancing with a dreamy step that was

quite different from anybody else, and it produced an entrancing effect.

Through the second and third acts she made a regular crescendo, just to

display her technique and show what she could do. All the other dancers

seemed like blocks of wood in comparison with her.--Fräulein Grantzow is

said to be between thirty-five and thirty-eight years old. As the papers

said, her art shows the perfection that only maturity can give. The men

are all crazy over her, as you may imagine, and she was showered with

bouquets as large as the top of a barrel. The play of her features was

as extraordinary as the play of her muscles. Her whole being seemed to

be the soul of motion.

Music-Study in Germany, from the Home Correspondence of Amy Fay · 第 13 / 28 章