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A BRIEF SKETCH
OF THE
LONG AND VARIED CAREER
OF
Marshall MacDermott
ESQ., J.P.,
OF
ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
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WRITTEN SOLELY FOR PRIVATE DISTRIBUTION AMONGST
RELATIVES AND SPECIAL FRIENDS.
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ADELAIDE:
WILLIAM KYFFIN THOMAS, PRINTER, GRENFELL-STREET.
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1874.
------------------------------------------------------------------------
A BRIEF SKETCH
OF THE
LONG AND VARIED CAREER
OF
Marshall MacDermott, Esq., J.P.
OF ADELAIDE, SOUTH AUSTRALIA.
--------------------------------
THE following pages were written very recently, under a degree of
pressure from some members of my family; and as I possessed no memoranda
whatever to aid me in such a work, I have had to rely entirely upon
memory; therefore errors in details may reasonably claim excuse, after
the lapse of so long a period of time. These papers are written _solely_
for private distribution amongst relatives and special friends; and, as
my family is rather numerous and dispersed, the necessity arises of
having them printed.
* * * * *
I obtained a Commission in the Army of His late Majesty King George
III., at a very early age, through the influence of Lord Hutchinson, at
that time British Ambassador at the Court of St. Petersburg, and joined
the 2nd Battalion of the 8th (or King’s) Regiment of Foot, in the year
1808, at Chester. Being anxious to be employed on foreign service, I
obtained leave in the same year to join the 1st Battalion of the
Regiment at Halifax, in Nova Scotia, and towards the close of that year
embarked again with a division of troops under Sir Geo. Prevost, to
attack the French islands of Martinique, Guadaloup, &c., in the West
Indies. The Halifax Division consisted of the 8th, 13th, 7th, and 23rd
Fusileers, with Artillery and Engineers; and we joined the West Indian
Division under the Commander-in-Chief, Sir Geo. Beckwith, at Barbadoes.
During the voyage from Halifax, the convoy, including a large fleet of
transports, encountered a “white squall,” which only lasted about
fifteen minutes. From the fury of the tempest the sea could not rise; it
was smooth as a table, but covered with a dense white foam. The fleet
had been carrying a press of sail, especially the dull sailors; when,
like a clap of thunder, it was suddenly thrown on its beam ends. Sails
were torn into ribbons and small spars and wreck were flying in all
directions. Heavy rains then descended, followed by a dead calm, when an
enormous sea arose—ships on the crest of the waves, finding others in
the gulph below them under no control, and in imminent danger of
crushing each other. Damages were repaired, and without any serious
losses the fleet proceeded on its voyage.
The united force sailed from Barbadoes for Martinique, accompanied by
the West India squadron, commanded by Sir Alexander Cochrane, who took
up a position with the West Indian Division of Troops outside of Port
Royal Harbour, on the west side of the island. The North American
Division landed at Bay Robert, on the east side, and after two days’
sharp fighting drove the French force, consisting of four regiments of
the line and about 11,000 Militia, across the island, when they took
refuge in the strong fortress of Fort Bourbon, disbanding their Militia.
On this occasion I had the honour of carrying the King’s colours of my
regiment.
The siege of the fortress, armed with over 200 pieces of heavy ordnance,
then commenced. The 8th Regiment was placed in position along a range of
hills facing the fort, being a coffee plantation, forming part of the
estate of the Empress Josephine of France. The ground had been recently
broken up, and there being no tents, the heavy tropical rains severely
tested the constitutions of the soldiers, who left their moulds in the
loose earth on rising each following morning.
The mortar and breaching batteries maintained a heavy fire for about six
weeks, when two breaches being reported practicable, the storming
parties were told off for the assault on the following morning. At the
dawn of day, however, a white flag was discernible; the garrison
surrendered, marched out with the honours of war at 12 o’clock, piled
arms, and were immediately placed on board transports for conveyance to
Europe.
Four Imperial Eagles, the first Napoleon had ever lost, were among the
trophies; afterwards placed in the Royal Chapel at Whitehall, London.
The 8th Regiment chanced to encounter the French 8th of the line on this
occasion, as it had previously done in Egypt; and was presented by the
Commander-in-Chief with the fine set of brass drums delivered up by the
latter corps.
Just previous to the arrival of the expedition, a French frigate,
heavily laden with gunpowder for the garrison, had arrived at
Martinique; but before it could be landed, preparations for cutting her
out having been observed amongst the English fleet, she was blown up at
night by the French. The whole island was shaken by the explosion; and
the mountain of fire, with floating wreck clearly visible, was
inconceivably grand and awful.
At this time, war with America appearing to be imminent, the North
American Division was immediately embarked, and sailed for the defence
of these provinces, landing at Halifax.
The 8th Regiment was ordered to embark, and sailed for Quebec in 1810,
when it was thought the navigation of the River St. Lawrence would be
open. The transports passed through the Gut of Causo towards evening,
and entered the Gulf of St. Lawrence. About midnight they found
themselves surrounded by broken ice, and four of the ships put back; but
that in which I sailed continued her course. For three days and nights
she was imperilled amongst floes of broken ice; fortunately, however, to
leeward of a field of ice extending about 40 miles in length. The nights
were dark, and men were placed on the bowsprit to watch the floating ice
and give warning for the ship to put about. Very often the time was
insufficient, and the ship’s sides were so frequently felt to be
grinding against the ice, that it was feared the planks might not be
able to resist such frequent abrasions. A few days later she cleared the
Gulf and entered the noble River St. Lawrence, 90 miles wide at its
mouth, and 400 miles distant from Quebec. On approaching the city the
scene was magnificent. On the right, the large Island of Orleans—a
perfect garden. Further on, the Falls of Montmorency, 240 feet high; and
in front, the river here taking a bend, the Citadel, and the City of
Quebec on a very lofty elevation. The latter has a most remarkable
appearance, all the steeples and houses being covered with bright tin,
to facilitate the snow in shooting off from the roofs.
Both banks of the river, so far as it had been settled by the French in
Lower Canada, were laid out on a uniform military plan—a town with a
steeple every nine miles, where the Captain of Militia was stationed,
one of his lieutenants being on the other flank and another in the
centre.
The regiment was quartered at Quebec during the summer. At this time,
however, the 2nd Battalion of the 8th had arrived at Halifax from
England, and I was ordered to join it on promotion, which I did, sailing
on board a man-of-war in which I had been offered a passage. Soon
afterwards I was placed with a detachment at Melville Island, in charge
of French prisoners of war amongst whom I observed an intelligent young
midshipman, who I regretted to find herded with the common sailors, and
frequently had him to breakfast at my quarters, after which we used to
practice the small sword exercise with foils, and became tolerably
efficient. After some time I applied to the Admiral, Sir J. B. Warren,
and obtained his parole, which the young scamp subsequently broke, and
disappeared.
In the year 1811, the 2nd Battalion 8th was stationed at St. John’s, in
the Province of New Brunswick, to which place, after marching through
Nova Scotia, they crossed the Bay of Fundy. Here the tides rise forty
feet, and enter a small gulf leading to the town of Windsor in the
latter province, in the form of a bore, that is, suddenly, as a wall of
water, nearly perpendicular, and eight or ten feet high.
During the year 1812 the Americans declared war against England, at
Washington, having previously ordered their army on the frontier to
invade Upper Canada, on the _same_ day, being several days before the
intelligence could be known at that place. They signally failed,
however, in their first attacks. Reinforcements being urgently required,
and the River St. Lawrence being frozen up for the season, the 2nd
Battalion 8th was ordered to attempt the winter march on snow shoes to
Quebec; generally through desert country, and partly through the enemy’s
territory, and where no baggage animals could travel.
The march occupied forty-two days, with a day’s interval between each
division or company. Fortunately, there had been just sufficient time to
form two depôts of provisions on the line of march, thus making three
stages of fourteen days each. On leaving each station officers and men
alike had to carry on their backs fourteen days’ provisions, personal
baggage, arms, &c., and frequently to march on snow shoes, which,
without other encumbrances, is a labour to those unpractised. The
camping at evening presented a novel scene. Huts were formed of poles
covered with branches of spruce-fir, leaving the tops open for the smoke
to escape. Large fires were kept up the whole length of the huts; poles
being staked down at proper distances on each side, against which, the
sleeping soldiers rested their feet—their couches being formed of layers
of spruce boughs on the snow, which made capital elastic beds. The march
was successful, having only lost one man from the fall of a tree, and
fourteen men afterwards discharged disabled from being severely
frost-bitten.
When the snow was deep it was necessary to march in Indian files, that
is, only one man in front to tread down a path, the leading man falling
in rear after fifteen or twenty paces, the next then leading, and so on
in succession, the fatigue on snow shoes being great. Another rule was,
that the last man of each division should be an officer, to keep up
stragglers. There happened to be a long march of twenty-five miles
across Lake Tamiskwata, next to the grand portage between that lake and
the River St. Lawrence, when it was my turn to be the last man of my
division. A violent snow-storm commenced early in the day, and after
marching about eight miles, a man was seized with convulsions. What was
to be done? The snow was drifting in eddies and circles, obliterating
the path in front. No wood was accessible to light a fire, and the man
must not be left behind. Fortunately, the party had with them an Indian
contrivance, called a “tobaugan,” being a thin board twelve feet long
turned up in front like a skate, used to relieve sick and weakly men of
their loads. This was unpacked and the load distributed amongst those
present; the sick man was covered with many blankets, tied on and
dragged by the party, eight in number, in turns. Happily, they arrived
safely at the end of their stage. My load on that day’s march was,
besides my own luggage and provisions, a soldier’s knapsack and two
muskets, my share of drawing the tobaugan, and marching on snow shoes.
The division in front encountered great dangers in crossing the Grand
Portage over a mountainous country; the snow drifting in circles,
obliterating paths, and filling up deep hollows. Great risks arose from
men lying down from fatigue, which required unwearied exertions on the
part of the officers to prevent, to save them from perishing. After
marching for twenty-two hours until daylight next morning, the division
had only progressed eight miles, having been partially travelling in
circles with the drifting snow.
The divisions struck the St. Lawrence ninety miles below Quebec, and the
spontaneous kindness of the French Canadians could not have been
exceeded. The carrioles, sleighs, and sledges of the whole district were
assembled, and no man was suffered to march. They also fed the whole
regiment during the route. On their arrival at Point Levi, opposite
Quebec, where the river is over a mile wide, it was found that the ice
had broken up and was floating down in great masses with a current of
about six miles an hour. A number of large wooden canoes were collected,
carrying about twenty men each, in the management of which the Canadians
are very expert. After the men were seated the canoe was launched into
open water, and the crew paddled away with all their might. When they
encountered a large piece of ice they jumped out, and hauled up the
canoe upon it, dragged it across, and launched it on the opposite side.
This was rather a nervous operation, as the inclines, both in launching
and hauling up, were very steep, and required holding on hard. This had
to be repeated several times during the passage.
Early in the following spring the regiment embarked in steam-boats for
Montreal. Shortly afterwards, a remarkable and most interesting ceremony
took place there, at which I was present. The chiefs of about forty
Indian nations, or tribes—some from the shores of the Pacific Ocean,
distant about 4,000 miles—assembled at Government House for the purpose
of holding a “talk” or council with the Governor-General, Sir George
Prevost, and concluding a treaty with him—offensive and defensive. Each
chief had been presented with a scarlet robe, and the scene was very
imposing.
The chiefs, generally, were remarkably fine-looking men, their features
Grecian, their carriage easy and graceful. Each chief, while addressing
the Governor-General, held a “wampum” belt, handsomely embroidered with
porcupine quills, and beads of various colours, which is their record of
the treaty. When the recognised superior chief had concluded his speech
he should have handed the “wampum” belt to the chief next in dignity of
the Sioux tribe. It so happened, however, that he was passed over, and
it was offered to him as the third speaker. He declined the honour in a
most dignified and courteous manner, and would not deliver his address
until after all the others had finished.
Their language was very poetical, figurative, and quite in the Ossian
style, somewhat in the following manner:—
“Father, listen to your Red Children.
“We have come from the setting to the rising sun to help our Father in
his time of need, and to live or die with him.”
“Listen, Father.
“In days long past our Father and his Red Children fought with the Big
Knives (the Americans) and they laid our Father on his back; and he held
out his hand to the Big Knives (made peace) but forgot his Red Children.
We hope he will not do so again.”
“Listen, Father.
“We ask our great Father at the other side of the Big Lake, (the
Atlantic Ocean) to supply his Red Children with arms and ammunition, and
to help us in our time of need.”
Their addresses were long, and very beautiful; and six Canadians were
found sufficient to interpret their numerous dialects.
After a short stay at Montreal, the regiment marched to La Prairie, near
Lake Champlain, on the frontier of the State of New York, where a force
of 10,000 men was assembled, including Militia, for the purpose of
attacking the American fortress of Plattsburgh, on that lake. During the
advance I was severely wounded in a night attack. A ball struck my chain
wing, on the right shoulder, cutting it into three slugs which entered
my neck (together with six links of brass chain, a brass button, and
some cloth and bullion) close to the carotid artery, dividing the
gullet, and lodged near the carotid artery on the other side, whence
they were afterwards cut out, sundry sinews being attached to the brass
chain. I lay all night on the field in a pool of blood, and was carried
into camp the next morning. The copious bleeding—which was repeated
three times afterwards by the surgeon—was probably, humanly speaking,
the means of saving my life, which was spared by the mercy of Almighty
God. From excessive inflammation and swelling nothing passed my lips for
eight days, and then on taking a little milk and water it passed out
through the wound over my shoulder. I recovered in six months; but the
wound broke out again after fifteen years, from a cold, and was nearly
fatal.
During the years 1813 and 1814 the 1st Battalion, 8th, 41st, and 49th
Regiments, together with some Militia, had to defend a frontier of 1,500
miles, from Montreal to Michilimakina, on Lake Superior. The American
fleets on the several lakes being generally superior, were enabled to
land numerous forces to attack weak points. On such occasions the
English troops had to concentrate by forced marches during summer and
winter. Numerous sanguinary actions were fought, and their losses in
killed and wounded were rarely equalled. But they not only maintained
their ground, but took possession of the Michigan territory—larger than
England—which was not restored to the Americans until after the treaty
of peace.
During these campaigns the 1st Battalion of the 8th Regiment lost more
in killed and wounded than their original number, viz., 45 officers and
over 900 men. Its number, however, was maintained by drafts from the 2nd
Battalion and recruits from England.
During the winter of 1814-15 a king’s messenger arrived at Montreal with
despatches, announcing the conclusion of a treaty of peace with America,
and I was ordered to proceed with this despatch to Upper Canada to put
an end to further hostilities. I travelled by sleigh with a pair of
horses on the ice, driven by a French Canadian along the River St.
Lawrence, avoiding the rapids at the several portages. When crossing
Lake St. Francois—an expansion of the St. Lawrence—it being near the
close of the winter, the ice broke under us. The driver was skilful,
lashed his horses, which sprang with their fore-feet on the firm ice,
giving them a fresh impulse; this also broke and several others in
succession, until at length the firm ice was gained at some distance.
The current underneath was very rapid. I delivered my despatch to the
Commodore, Sir Jas. Yeo, on board his flag ship the “Ontario,” 110 guns,
at Kingston, Lake Ontario. This ship was an extraordinary object to see
on a fresh water lake.
After my return from Upper Canada I rejoined the 1st Battalion of my
regiment, and intelligence having arrived of the escape of Napoleon
Bonaparte from Elba, 10,000 troops, chiefly composed of regiments
recently arrived, and which had belonged to the army of the Duke of
Wellington, were ordered to embark at Quebec, and were to receive
further instructions on reaching the English Channel. Those troops were
formed into three brigades, under Sir Geo. Murray, Sir Thos. Brisbane,
and Sir Fredk. Robinson, with artillery, and equipped in all points
ready to take the field. They sailed in the month of May, and expected
to reach Europe in time to take part in the first battle with the army
of Napoleon. When the fleet of transports reached the banks of
Newfoundland it was enveloped in a dense fog, and the ships’ bells were
constantly ringing to prevent their falling foul of each other. Suddenly
they entered a clear atmosphere, which was caused by the presence of
numerous icebergs of enormous size. The Commodore, Sir Geo. Collyer, in
the “Liffey” frigate, sailed close to one of them, and his royal-masts
only reached two-thirds of its height. It must have been 100 feet high,
and ice is always two-thirds under water; its length was about three
miles, and its enormous bulk may thus be conceived. It must have broken
off from some very high cliff. It appeared clear as crystal, and
numerous rills of water were flowing down its sides forming gullies. The
clear atmosphere extended within a radius of about five miles; after
which the ships re-entered the fog on the opposite side.
On entering the English Channel a frigate was waiting the arrival of the
fleet, and gave the intelligence that the Battle of Waterloo had been
fought only seven days previously. The strong regiments landed in France
and joined the army of occupation at Paris. The 8th landed at Portsmouth
and marched to Windsor, where it was quartered.
The 8th Regiment relieved the Coldstream Guards at Windsor, and in their
campaigning costume their appearance did not satisfy the
Princesses—daughters of King George III. It became necessary, therefore,
to purchase some new articles of clothing at the cost of the soldiers.
Those ladies, especially Princess Elizabeth, were very critical in
matters of dress. Three officers happened to be walking in the Green
Park without their swords, and noticing the approach of the Princesses,
they turned into a side walk to avoid them. The ladies, evidently
intentionally, also turned off into the same walk, and suddenly met the
officers face to face. Neither party could avoid laughing. But the
circumstance of their appearing without swords was afterwards mentioned
to Sir Herbert Taylor, the King’s equerry. His Majesty was at this time
insane, and occupied a padded room in the Castle, just over the terrace,
in care of an attendant. The terrace was closed against the public, but
the officers on guard, when visiting their sentries, frequently saw His
Majesty at the windows. His appearance was most venerable, with a white
flowing beard down upon his breast. Previous to his insanity it was
related of him that he accosted a sentry on the terrace one morning,
asking his name and if he had a family; the man replied, “Yes.” The King
then said, “Come, along with me to the garden, and I will give you some
cabbages.” “Please your Majesty, I must not leave my post.” “O, well,
well, come when you are relieved, and I will fill your sack with
cabbages.”
On home service few events occur worth recording. Remaining two years at
Windsor, the regiment embarked at Portsmouth for Malta. After passing
Gibraltar, while becalmed off Cape de Gat, on the Spanish coast, a
number of turtles were observed floating on the water. I, with some
other officers, got into a boat and rowed towards them. They were
apparently sleeping, and eight of them were caught by the fins and
captured. One of them, however, weighing about 200 lbs., caught three of
my fingers in its beak and cut me severely. I was quite willing to let
my antagonist escape, but my opponent would not consent, and he was
hauled on board still holding his prey. Fortunately, there was a
marlinspike on board and the fingers were released, thus affording an
illustration of “catching a Tartar.”
Malta, with its magnificent harbour, is remarkable in many respects.
Valletta, its capital, is built on a rock surrounded on three sides by
the harbour, and is strongly fortified, as well as its three suburbs and
dock-yard situated across the harbour. The parapets of the various
fortifications by which all these places are enclosed are said to
measure forty-two miles. The works are of great magnitude. When the
island was held by the knights of Malta—formerly knights of Rhodes, and
originally knights of St. John of Jerusalem—it is stated that at one
period they had as many as 100,000 Saracens, prisoners of war, on the
island, who were employed on these stupendous works.
The ditch between Valletta and its suburb Floreana is sixty feet wide
and forty feet deep, cut out of solid rock, a sandstone resembling that
at Bath. The catacombs between Valletta and Citta Vecchia, distant seven
and a-half miles, are a perfect labyrinth of excavated galleries, and so
many persons have been lost there that the dangerous passages have been
walled up. Solid oblong masses of human skulls and bones have been piled
in various places, and there are several spacious halls, supposed to
have been used as places of concealment.
At Citta Vecchia an ancient church exists—a re-building of one erected
on the spot stated by tradition to be the place where St. Paul had been
bitten by a viper. And you see before you the channel “where two seas
meet,” between the islands of Malta and Gozo; where they “_cast out four
anchors by the stern_, lightened the ship, and wished for the day.” It
is curious that Lord Nelson is supposed to have gained the Battle of the
Nile by adopting this plan; for, when breaking through the French line
of battle, the latter reserved their fire until his ships should swing
round at their anchors; which, of course, having anchored by the stern,
did not take place, and they lost their opportunity of raking his ships.
The Malta stone when first quarried is soft, but hardens by exposure. It
is commonly worked in lathes in various beautiful forms, such as vases,
balustrades, &c. The Palazzos of the Grand Knights are rich in
architecture, generally quadrangles. The churches and public buildings
are also very fine, and some of the monuments of the knights are
beautiful; altogether the city is very handsome. The ditch, before
referred to, had been converted by the knights into a beautiful garden,
the soil of which had all been conveyed from Sicily in ships; and the
walks had been so skilfully laid out as to convey a strong impression of
extent.
While at Malta I was recommended for the appointment of Pay-master of my
regiment, which I accepted, my prospects of promotion during peace being
remote; and I proceeded to England, on leave of absence, on board a post
office packet. This vessel was obliged to put in for repairs at
Gibraltar, where she was detained eight days; affording me a fine
opportunity for examining that celebrated fortress.
The neck of land which connects it with Spain is only 400 yards wide,
over which the rock rises with a perpendicular face to a great height.
Two wide galleries—one over the other—have been excavated along this
north face, through which port-holes have been cut out at intervals for
cannon, commanding the neutral ground. The east side is impregnable from
perpendicular rock. The defences towards the bay on the west and on the
south sides are very strong. The length of the rock from north to south
is about three miles. Toward the centre the high ridge of rock dips
considerably, and here a battery has been placed; on visiting which I
found about 100 wild monkeys chattering. They jumped down the eastern
face of the rock, catching stunted shrubs at intervals with their tails,
until they reached the bottom. They are not allowed to be shot. The
population of Gibraltar—about 16,000—is entirely dependent on rain for
their supply of fresh water; but from flat roofs, and tanks under every
house, besides large public reservoirs, they have sufficient and to
spare for supplying ships of war.
During my visit to England the 8th Regiment was removed from Malta to
Corfù, one of the Ionian Islands, and previous to my rejoining it
overland I made arrangements for a tour extending over several months
through France, Switzerland, and Italy. Passing through Calais,
Boulogne, Abbeville, Montreuil, Beauvois, and St. Denis, I entered
Paris, where I remained, in company with a brother officer, for a
fortnight. Being resolved to see everything remarkable which time would
admit of during this tour, I worked hard, early and late. At this time
(1819) Paris was not the beautiful city it has since become, and its
population has now (1871) been more than doubled. The gutters were made
in the centre of the streets, which were not kept over cleanly; there
were no footpaths—nor was the improved system of road-making by McAdam
then adopted. Oil lamps were attached to ropes suspended across the
streets, and early risers ran the risk of encountering shower baths of
questionable purity, ejected from the windows. Leaving Paris in a
south-east direction, the ascent of Mount Jura commences from Dijon, a
distance of about 380 miles from Paris. Many of the old Roman roads
still remained, paved with large blocks of stone, which were very rough
travelling, and planted on each side with poplars or cypress. On
reaching the summit of the road over the Jura Mountains you come
suddenly upon a most magnificent view—Mount Blanc, the range of Alps,
the lake and city of Geneva, Lausanne, the exit of the river Rhone from
the lake, and many other interesting objects. Days might be occupied in
contemplating such a view. Below Geneva, one and a-half miles, the Rhone
forms a junction with the Arve. At this place was fought one of Julius
Cæsar’s great and decisive battles.
Leaving Geneva the road skirts the northern shore of the beautiful and
extensive lake of that name, passing through the picturesque town of
Lausanne. At the head of the lake lies the village of Vevay. Here I met
with two Irish gentlemen of most agreeable manners, and highly
intelligent; and their plans being very similar to my own, we agreed to
travel together. It may be here remarked, that not until the end of two
months afterwards was it discovered, from a casual observation, that all
three had been school-fellows. Proceeding up the valley of the Rhone the
celebrated Pass of the Simplon across the Alps, between Switzerland and
Italy, is reached. After his great campaign in Italy, Napoleon I.
ordered this fine road to be made. The gradients are so easy that a
carriage may be trotted up nearly to the summit—above 8,000 feet over
the sea level—passing through a few short tunnels, where rocky spurs of
the mountain intervene. Here a monastery is situated, where the noble
dogs are trained to search for lost travellers in the snow. No
description is capable of conveying to the mind the magnificent scenery
of the Alps, which is ever varying. At one point the road passes close
to a perpendicular cleft in the mountain, said to be 1,000 feet deep,
and only forty or fifty yards wide at the top. A rushing torrent can be
heard from the bottom, but in total darkness.
After crossing the Simplon the first Italian town is Duomo Dossola;
after which the road passes along the shore of Lake Maggiore—the scenery
still being beautiful. The small island of Isola Bella is situated in
this lake, and is quite unique. On its summit stands a palazzo, of
Italian architecture, surrounded by three broad terraces, below each
other, down to the water’s edge, and planted in a most tasteful and
ornamental manner. Under the palace there is an extensive natural cave,
in which is a spring of running water. This cave is formed into a
grotto, embellished with coral and shell work, and must be a delightful
retreat during the heat of summer.
On the shore opposite Isola Bella is situated the colossal bronze statue
of Prince Carlo Borromeo, a Bishop or Cardinal. The pedestal is
thirty-six feet high, and the statue seventy-two feet, in all 108 feet.
The figure appears in Roman costume, with a Bible in the left hand. The
interior is ascended by ladders, and it is said that eight persons could
sit within the head. This statue was erected by the inhabitants of Milan
in gratitude for the devoted labours of the Prince during the great
plague which visited that city three or four centuries back.
Travellers enter Milan through a beautiful marble triumphal arch,
erected in honour of Napoleon. The Duomo or Cathedral is a wonderful
building of white marble, the façade of which was not completed until he
had conquered Italy, although the remainder of the building, which has
been very costly, had been commenced in the year 1386. At the top of
each pinnacle, and in various recesses, are placed marble statues, said
to be 3,000 in number. This building should be viewed at night during
the full moon, when it has the appearance of ivory, and is a sight
rarely equalled.
Being desirous of visiting Venice, I left my fellow-travellers at Milan;
having arranged to rejoin them at Florence, I proceeded through the
valley of the Po, by way of Bergamo, Breschia, Peschiera, Verona, and
Padua, from whence I crossed the Lagoon to Venice.
The Province of Lombardy is very beautiful, situated between the Alps
and Apennines, and watered by many rivers. The country generally is
divided into square blocks, and extensively irrigated. These blocks are
surrounded by mulberry trees planted at regular intervals, and grape
vines are festooned from tree to tree. The fruit, being ripe at this
time, presented a rich and lovely scene. The fertility of the soil,
consequent upon irrigation, is very great, producing generally three
crops annually. The culture of silk is very valuable in many respects.
It employs a large number of women and children at their own homes, and
the annual export of silk, raw and manufactured, amounts to about four
millions sterling.
Venice is built on a number of small islets, and partly on piles, and is
situated in the centre of a large lagoon at the head of the Adriatic
Sea, from which the lagoon is separated by two narrow strips of land
stretching from opposite shores, leaving a narrow channel between for
ships to enter, which is strongly fortified. Instead of streets there
are very numerous canals; and horses and carriages being useless, the
inhabitants move about the streets in a picturesque description of boats
called “gondolas.” The Palace of the Doges and the Cathedral of St.
Marco are very fine buildings. The former is connected with the Hall of
Justice by Lord Byron’s “Bridge of Sighs.” The monuments of the Doges,
the paintings, and the Grecian antique statues collected here, are
beautiful. In the Palazzo Manfrini there are many valuable paintings.
The three portraits by Georgione, so greatly extolled by Lord Byron in
his “Beppo,” are here. A curious anecdote respecting that poem has been
related. It is said to have originated in a bet. A literary party,
including Lord Byron, Sir Walter Scott, Tom Moore, and some foreigners
of distinction, were dining together at Venice, when the conversation
turned upon the flexibility or inflexibility of modern languages for the
purposes of “colloquial poetry.” A general opinion was expressed that
the English language was the least adapted. Lord Byron, however,
maintained the contrary, and proposed a bet to produce a short poem in
_that_ style, within twenty-four hours, against any other like poem that
could be found in any language. The bet was accepted, and resulted in
his writing “Beppo.” The umpire declared that Lord Byron had won his
wager.
Leaving Venice, the road to Florence passes through Ferrara and Bologna.
Here the Campo Santo, or burial ground, is worth visiting; it contains
many handsome monuments, and the gateway at the entrance is fine—the
pillars of which are surmounted by colossal marble statues of “Time” and
“Death.” Exquisite paintings are also to be seen here.
Crossing the Apennines, you pass a spot called Pietra Mala, where gas
escapes from the earth through small fissures, which were burning at the
time. The flame did not rise above five or six inches, but varies
according to the state of the atmosphere, and it spread over about half
an acre of ground.
I rejoined my fellow-travellers at Florence, where I remained ten days.
This is a most delightful city, containing a variety of interesting
objects. The Palazzo Pitti—the then Archducal residence—contains some of
the most valuable paintings and sculptures to be found anywhere—the
latter including the Venus de Medicis and Apollo Belvedere. Costly works
in Mosaics and Cameos are produced at Florence, where artists in such
works are very skilful. The Duomo, or Cathedral, is a fine building, and
the fountains are ornamental.
Passing through Arezzo, Trasimene (the scene of a great battle),
Perugia, Spoleto, Terni, you enter Rome—the Eternal City. The travellers
here remained a fortnight working hard to examine the objects of highest
interest. The first attraction was the Cathedral of St. Peter, which
took 150 years to build, at a cost of forty-five millions of crowns; and
here you are lost in wonder at the magnitude of its proportions, 569
feet long and 487 feet high. On the right hand, as you enter, you see a
baptismal font, supported by two angels of a miniature size to
appearance, compared with other objects around; but when you approach
them they are colossal. In the nave there are twelve elevated recesses,
in each of which stands a statue of one of the Apostles. A ladder stood
against one of them, to enable a workman to do some repairs. As he stood
in the recess his head reached to the knee of the statue. The size of
each object is so admirably adjusted that nothing seems disproportioned.
There are twelve side-chapels—six on each side of the nave; and over
each altar is placed a copy, in Mosaic, of some celebrated painting.
They measured fifteen feet by twelve feet high. The first examined by
our travellers was a copy of the transfiguration, by Raphael. One of
them, who had long promised himself a feast in viewing that picture, was
in raptures, and it was some time before he discovered that it was a
Mosaic copy—the original being in the Vatican. The High Altar, an
elevation, I think, of 104 feet, is grand. In the Piazza in front, 1,000
feet long, stands an ancient obelisk brought from Egypt, being a single
piece of granite, eighty-three feet high, and two handsome fountains;
the piazza being enclosed on two sides by stately semi-circular
colonnades of four columns abreast, sixty feet high, and 372 in number.
The next object of attraction was the Colosseum. The place which once
echoed the shouts of 100,000 persons was now silent. It should be viewed
by moonlight. It is a very ancient and wonderful structure. The Vatican
is an extensive pile of buildings, situated close to St. Peter’s Church.
When our travellers reached the principal entrance, the hall was
crowded, and they saw Pope Pius VII. descending the staircase, leaning
on Cardinal Gonsalvi. The crowd all knelt except the three strangers,
who stood uncovered, to whom the Pope made a distinct bow.
The treasures of art contained in the Vatican are so numerous as to
baffle description. The studios of Canova and Thorvaldsen were visited,
as also those of the most skilful artists in Mosaics and Cameos. Many of
the antiquities deserve close inspection—the Columns of Antonine and
Trajan; the Triumphal Arches of Septimus Severus, Titus, and
Constantine; the Capitol and Tarpeian Rock; the Temples of Concord,
Jupiter Stater, Anthony and Faustina, and of Peace, the prison in which
St. Peter was confined.
From Rome to Naples you pass through Frascati, Velletri, Frosinone,
Pontecorvo, and Capua, once the winter quarters of Hannibal and his
army. Shortly after leaving Rome you cross the Pontine Marshes,
extending south about thirty or forty miles, which infect the air to
such a degree in summer as to resemble a plague. Although apparently
fertile, it is almost depopulated, and with few habitations. The malaria
arises from stagnant swamps, and their few inhabitants are wretched
objects, emaciated and pot-bellied, generally dying prematurely from
dropsy. Few efforts in modern times had been made to drain them, the
resources of the Pontifical Government being absorbed in unnecessary
churches and processions.
A large body of banditti, generally prisoners, escaped from the galleys,
and then, supposed to number about 400, infested the neighbouring
mountains; and several gibbets were seen at intervals on the road, at
places where murders had been committed by them. A few days previously
they entered the town of Tivoli and carried off two of the principal
inhabitants, for whose ransom they demanded 3,000 crowns, and the
Government seemed quite unable to suppress those disorders.
The situation of Naples, with its magnificent Bay, is much to be
admired. The Royal “Museum Borbonico” contains objects of the highest
interest—a vast number of articles of ancient glass, mostly Egyptian,
Sicilian Vases, &c.; and the collections from Herculaneum and Pompeii,
consisting of ancient instruments, utensils, female ornaments, and
household articles found in those cities, and recently removed here from
the museum at Portici, are quite unique. The Grottos of Posillipo and
del Cane are close to Naples. In the latter, a noxious gas is so
powerful that nothing living can exist within it. Dogs held by cords
entering into it four or five feet become insensible, and are dragged
out. The tomb of Virgil is near this place. The ancient manuscripts
brought from Herculaneum are like pieces of charcoal about a foot long.
I saw a person trying to unroll one of them. He used an apparatus like a
miniature windlass, with a number of fine threads hanging from the
barrel, under which the manuscript was placed. When the end of the roll
was found, those threads were attached to it by means of scraps like
goldbeaters’ leaf, and then most carefully wound up until more scraps
were required. Many gaps were left, and in most cases the task was
hopeless. I was informed that the matter hitherto deciphered from those
papyri was not of much interest.
An early visit was made to Herculaneum and Pompeii, on Mount Vesuvius.
After being buried in lava or ashes for 1,600 years their discovery was
remarkable. A nobleman residing near Portici, a spot of high elevation,
thought that if he could penetrate the various beds of lava by sinking a
shaft he might find water. After sinking about seventy feet, the workmen
came upon a flight of marble steps, which, being followed, led into a
theatre in Herculaneum. There had been a statue near this place, which
had been thrown down, and in the lava which had flown over it was found
a fine cast of the statue. The theatre was excavated, and some other
buildings, but the city having been destroyed by lava, it was too costly
to make very extensive excavations, and everything perishable was
destroyed by the burning lava.
Pompeii had been buried in ashes, and was situated on a plain, at the
foot of Vesuvius. A vineyard had been planted over its site. On
ploughing the land nearly a century back, the workmen were obstructed by
a stone wall; and on excavations being made, houses were discovered
which proved to be part of the ancient city of Pompeii. When visited by
me a large portion had been cleared. Its overthrow had evidently taken
the inhabitants by surprise, for many skeletons were found in the
houses. One of them had been laid prostrate on his face, with a bunch of
keys in one hand and some coins in the other. Many signs and names over
shops remained, and in the streets paved with lava the ruts of cart
wheels were visible. Fresco paintings on the walls still remained; and
also the inscriptions on tombs in the burial-ground. There were some
temples, but of no great magnitude, and the houses generally had but one
story.
The next visit was made to Vesuvius, and I having taken leave with
regret of my fellow-travellers and school-fellows, whose journey
terminated at Naples, proceeded to the Mount, accompanied by three
foreign gentlemen—a Russian, a Pole, and a Dane. At this time (1819) the
eruption of the volcano was very active, and an English naval officer
had his arm broken on the previous day by a falling stone, owing to an
unexpected change of wind; it being necessary during eruptions to
approach the crater on the windward side. The party slept for a few
hours at a hermitage half way up the ascent, in order to obtain a view
of the rising sun over the Bay of Naples, which is certainly a most
glorious sight. From this place the ascent is very rough—over
sharp-pointed, heated lava; a stream of which, about six feet wide and
four miles long, was then flowing, falling over a cliff and filling a
valley beyond. Seen in the dark it was a bright red colour, but by
daylight it was of a dull dark colour. A piece of it was scraped out,
and the impression of a coin was made on it. The crater was nearly half
a mile in diameter, and threw up large stones and ashes to a great
height, accompanied by a fearfully roaring noise. The travellers were
enabled to look down towards the bottom of the crater, but from the
confusion of flames, gases, and smoke, no correct idea could be formed
of its depth. The stream of lava was flowing from a hole at the side of
the cone. The stones thrown up generally fell nearly perpendicularly,
but the ashes are blown to leeward, generally towards the east, where
the descent is extremely steep, and attended with some little danger.
The ascent of the mount occupies several hours, but the descent on this
side is effected with great rapidity. The travellers agreed to attempt
it. You step with one foot on deep fine ashes, which slide down with you
twenty or thirty feet; you then put down the other foot, sliding down in
like manner, and so on alternately until you reach the bottom. The
danger consists in over-balancing yourself, when you must roll down to
the bottom—some 5,000 or 8,000 feet, I think—but by holding your head
and shoulders well back you avoid this.
From Naples I travelled alone through Calabria and Apulia, across the
Southern Apennines to the Adriatic Sea—having passed over the place
where so many bushels of rings were collected from the fingers of the
Roman senators who had fallen in battle. On my arrival at Barletta, I
found a British gun-boat bound for Corfù, in which I embarked for that
island.
This most delightful tour, which can never be forgotten, was thus
accomplished. Travellers seeking pleasure will visit France; those
partial to magnificent scenery and tranquillity, Switzerland; but for
antiquities, and the arts, you must visit Italy.
I rejoined my regiment at Corfù, one of the Ionian Islands, situated
opposite the coast of Albania, where the celebrated Ali Pasha, of
Janina, nominally, ruled as Viceroy under the Sultan of Constantinople.
He was said to possess in his treasury £8,000,000 sterling, and at that
time contemplated shaking off the yoke of Turkey. He requested an
interview with Colonel (subsequently Sir) Charles Napier, then on the
staff at Corfù, and afterwards Commander-in-Chief in India; and it was
believed that the Pasha proposed to him to raise and command a military
force to accomplish his object. It was further said that Colonel Napier
agreed to the proposal, provided the sum of £1,000,000 sterling was
placed at his disposal for the purpose. This, however, the Pasha
declined, being very parsimonious. He shortly afterwards rebelled, and
lost his treasure and his life.
The citadel of Corfù was strong, but its value as a military post was
doubtful, as fleets could easily pass into the Adriatic unperceived
during the night. The chief products of the island were olive oil and
wine. At this time a violent earthquake took place in the middle of the
night. I was awakened from a sound sleep by the shaking of my bed; the
church bells were ringing from the concussions; and the inhabitants were
screaming and rushing into the streets. Many walls were fractured, but
no houses were overthrown at Corfù. This shock, however, was very
powerful throughout the Ionian Islands, and nearly 800 houses were
overthrown or seriously damaged by it at Zante. Shortly afterwards,
Colonel Sir Patrick Ross was desirous of making an extensive tour, to
occupy a year, through Egypt, Nubia, Palestine, Asia Minor,
Constantinople, Thessaly, Macedonia, and Peloponnesus, and invited
Colonel Duffy, Dr. Cartan, and myself to join him. We all agreed to do
so, and our plans being arranged, we applied to the Lord High
Commissioner for leave of absence. He declined to grant it, to our great
regret, on the ground that, as the proposed tour would be through
countries subject to Turkey and Greece, and the latter country being
then in a state of insurrection, we should be subject to insults, which
might embarrass the English Government.
The Greek insurrection having now become very general, the inhabitants
of Zante manifested a strong disposition to join in the revolt. The 8th
Regiment was suddenly ordered to embark for that island, having only
four hours’ notice. The officers had only time to pack up their
portmanteaus, leaving the remainder of their luggage behind, and some
officers who had been out shooting were obliged to embark in their
shooting-dresses.