SECOND-HAND SAFES, ETC.
In the broadest sense of the term there cannot be such a thing as a
burglar-proof or fire-proof safe, but in the usually restricted sense of
these words it is easy to obtain a safe that combines both qualities,
provided what is considered to be a good price is paid.
But it will be well to begin by warning those who hunt after so-called
second-hand safes that a real second-hand one, by a good maker, is
seldom to be obtained; also that the majority of safes advertised and
sold as genuinely second-hand, and with which a warranty is often said
to be given, are absolutely worthless, being made by small makers in
London and Birmingham, chiefly on purpose to be sold as second-hand, and
constructed of the lightest and poorest materials. The parts that are
visible of these safes of course look strong; for instance, the edge of
the door is sometimes about an inch thick, thus making it appear as if
of that thickness throughout; while the fact is that the door is made of
two thin sheets of iron with a thick narrow bar all round the edge, thus
showing apparent strength where there is none in reality, for nothing is
easier than to drill through this door and force back the bolts.
It is well for the reputation--such as it is--of these second-hand safes
that they are covered with paint; the more the defects the nicer the
safe frequently looks, outwardly; for it is easy enough to cover up
cracks, bad joints, &c. with putty, and then paint it all as smooth as a
carriage-panel. The angle-iron, by which the plates are fastened
together, is very slight, the rivets are small and few and far between;
the plates themselves are but sheet-iron, often of less thickness than
the mere linings of good safes; and as for the fireproofing material, it
is sometimes the ashes from the hearth, and sometimes garden-mould. It
is a fact that, at an auction in Scotland, whilst a safe of this
description was being ‘put up’ as one of the best ever made, it suddenly
fell to the ground, broke open in the fall, and out came the
fireproofing in the shape of fresh garden-turf, with live worms in it.
At a dealer’s at the West End of London, within the last few months,
there was one of these _new_ second-hand safes, its outer plates being
less than an eighth of an inch thick. The safe, about five feet high,
was so top-heavy and badly made that upon being touched it rocked like a
jelly, and had to be supported by boards at the back. Such is a sample
of many a wretched safe bought by unsuspecting and naturally ignorant
customers.
As to the fastening of such safes, the bolts are two or three in number,
thrown to the front of the door, while at the back of the door are what
are called ‘dogs,’ that is, immovable bolts, of little or no use, and
put in merely to make the fastenings look stronger. The hinges, too,
which ought to be well-made and of the best wrought-iron, are of
cast-iron, so that not only does the movement of the door quickly wear
them away, but a sharp blow would at once smash them in pieces.
The lock, which is generally used as a bait to catch the purchaser, is
frequently of good make, but of a kind never intended for a safe. Locks
made for wooden drawers are constantly bought and used for this purpose,
although totally unsuitable, and in spite of all proceedings that can
be taken to prevent it. Neither my firm nor any of the large
safe-manufacturers make safe-locks for any but safes of their own make.
A lock for this purpose requires to be, first, very strong, and
protected by hard steel, so as to be drill-proof; second, completely
gunpowder-proof; third, simple in construction, so that it may never be
liable to derangement. Locks on such safes as we are now describing are
seldom anything but the last, and not always that. So weak and poor in
its construction is this most important part of most of these safes,
that workmen with the simplest tools have, with ease and without noise,
forced open many of them in from five to fifteen minutes. The lock most
suitable for safes is shown in annexed engraving.
[Illustration]
It is, in short, a most obvious truth to all who care to enquire into
the matter that of all cheap things a cheap safe as a general rule is
the most worthless.
Every lock or safe maker of any repute has, at one time or another, had
his name used unlawfully in order to deceive purchasers of these common
safes. My firm has been compelled to bring nearly a dozen actions in
cases of this kind. It had a case lately in which a dealer attempted
twice within twelve months (the second time in defiance of the
injunction previously granted against him) to sell most worthless goods
as being Chubb’s patent make.
I had thought of giving a few instructions to guide a purchaser of a
second-hand safe, that he might secure the best; but, as I believe it is
a pure waste of money to buy even the best of the class alluded to, I
will note what will assist the purchaser who desires a good safe by a
good maker.
First, be satisfied that the lock is gunpowder-proof, and covered by
some arrangement that will effectually prevent drills reaching it; then
that the spindle or handle is made so that it cannot be pulled out or
forced in. There ought to be at least three bolts at the front and three
at the back of the door, proportionate to the height of the safe. The
lock-case, containing lock and bolts, should be most strongly fastened
to the door-plate, which ought never to be less than ½ in. throughout.
Respecting the body or outer plates of the safe, these should not be, in
smaller safes, less than ¼ in. thick, while in safes above 5 feet high
they should be at least ⅜ in. The frame on the safe (for the use and
description of which see page 35) must be at least 2¼ × ½ in. in small,
and 4 × ⅞ in. in large safes. The rivets used ought to be no more than
3 inches apart; this may sometimes be tested by scraping off the paint,
when the rivet-heads may be seen. Attention should be paid to the holes
in which the bolts go, for unless these are strong, a wedge and crowbar
would tear the bolts out of them without difficulty. Be sure also that
the fireproofing is of the best material; and lastly, choose a safe of
the best finish in every respect.
It may be said that notwithstanding the disparagement of the cheap
second-hand safes some of them have at times resisted burglars or
preserved their contents from fire. This may be true, but it has been
owing rather to the burglars’ want of skill or the little risk they ran
in the fire. On the other hand, I could cite dozens of instances where
their worthlessness has been shown under real exposure to fire or the
attempts of burglars.
A tolerably correct guide in the purchase of a safe is its weight,
wherein the light plate and thin proofing cases are sure to betray
themselves. Insist upon the weight being stamped on the safe, and see
that it does not deviate largely from the following instances:--
In. In. In.
wide high deep Cwt.
A safe 22 × 17 × 16 should weigh about 3
” 44 × 28 × 24 ” ” 11
” 48 × 39 × 25 ” ” 16 (folding doors)
” 60 × 39 × 26 ” ” 23 ” ”
” 84 × 48 × 30 ” ” 42 ” ”
No safes of the sizes mentioned should weigh less than these amounts;
but safes lined with steel, and made stronger than usual in other ways,
will, of course, be very much heavier.
It is so easy for a safe to be made that will deceive any but an
experienced eye, and when one is bought it is so requisite that it
should be one to be trusted in, that if only for the sake of peace of
mind it is advisable to purchase from one of those firms whose
reputations depend upon the quality of their work, and whose name is a
guarantee that the safe is a safe.
A guarantee is a capital thing to bait a hook with in most trades, but
it is a doubtful advantage at the best, for if an article is not good
enough to stand upon its own merits a guarantee cannot improve it; and
to say broadly, ‘Oh, yes, we guarantee this to be fire and thief proof,’
is to warrant a safe to withstand any amount of fire and any number of
burglars.
There obviously must be a limit to the endurance of safes; therefore a
guarantee is as obviously an absurdity, and ought not to be blindly
believed in.