Street Life

CHARACTERISTICS OF THE MASSES.--FASHIONABLE QUARTERS.--HOW MR.

FALCON SAID GOOD BYE TO HIS CUSTOMERS.--THE CROSSING IN

HOLBORN.--MOSES AND SON.--ADVERTISING VANS.--THE PUFFING MANIA, ITS

PHASES AND CAUSES.

From our house, which is our starting point, we have several large and

small streets leading to the south and opening into Holborn, which is

one of the great arteries of this gigantic town. Holborn extends to the

east to the old prison of Newgate, where it joins the chief streets of

the city; in the west it merges into interminable Oxford-street, which

leads in a straight line to Hyde Park, and farther on to Kensington

Gardens and Bayswater.

"If to this large line of streets," says Dr. Keif, "you add the

Friedrichstrasse of Berlin, you get a line of houses which extend from

this day, Monday, into next week, and perhaps a good bit farther. But

any one who attempts to walk to the farther end of Oxford-street--I say

'_who attempts_,' for, since the English prefer a constitutional

monarchy to an absolute prince, they are surely capable of any act of

folly--any one, I say, who performs that insane feat, will find that the

Berlin Friedrichstrasse commences at the very last house of

Oxford-street."

For once Dr. Keif is wrong. Where Oxford-street ends, there you enter

into a charming English landscape--one green and hilly and altogether

captivating. But at the end of the Berlin Friedrichstrasse you enter

nothing but the sandy deserts of the Mark.

Holborn is a business street. It has a business character; there is no

mistaking it. Shops and plate-glass windows side by side on each hand;

costermongers and itinerant vendors all along the pavement; the houses

covered with signboards and inscriptions; busy crowds on either side;

omnibuses rushing to and fro in the centre of the road, and all around

that indescribable bewildering noise of human voices, carriage-wheels,

and horses' hoofs, which pervades the leading streets of crowded cities.

Not all the London streets have this business character. They are

divided into two classes: into streets where the roast-beef of life is

earned, and into streets where the said roast-beef is eaten. No other

town presents so strong a contrast between its various quarters. But a

few hundred yards from the leading thoroughfares, where hunger or

ambition hunt men on, extend for many miles the quiet quarters of

comfortable citizens, of wealthy fundholders, and of landed proprietors,

who come to town for "the season," and who return to their parks and

shooting-grounds as soon as her Majesty has been graciously pleased to

prorogue Parliament, and with Parliament the season.

These fashionable quarters are as quiet as our own provincial towns.

They have no shops; no omnibuses are allowed to pass through them, and

few costermongers or sellers of fruit, onions, oysters, and fish find

their way into these regions, for the cheapness of their wares has no

attractions for the inhabitants of these streets. These streets, too,

are macadamized expressly for the horses and carriages of the

aristocracy; such roads are more comfortable for all parties concerned,

that is to say, for horses, horsemen, and drivers, and the carriages

are, moreover, too light to do much harm to the road. In these streets,

too, there are neither counting-houses nor public-houses to disturb the

neighbourhood by their daily traffic and nightly revelries. Comfort

reigns supreme in the streets and in the interior of the houses. The

roadway is lined with pavements of large white beautiful flag-stones,

which skirt the area railings; it is covered with gravel, and carefully

watered, exactly as the broad paths of our public gardens, to keep down

the dust and deaden the rumbling of the carriages and the step of the

horses. The horses, too, are of a superior kind, and as different from

their poorer brethren, the brewer's, coal-merchant's, and omnibus

horses, as the part of the town in which they eat is different from the

part in which the latter work.

In the vicinity of the Parks, or in the outskirts of the town, or

wheresoever else such quarters have space to extend, you must admire

their unrivalled magnificence. From the velvety luscious green, which

receives a deeper shade from the dense dark foliage of the English

beech-tree, there arise buildings, like palaces, with stone terraces and

verandahs, more splendid, more beautiful, and more frequent than in any

town on the continent.

An Englishman is easily satisfied with the rough comforts of his place

of business. The counting-houses of the greatest bankers; the

establishments of the largest trading houses in the city have a gloomy,

heavy, and poverty-stricken appearance. But far different is the case

with respect to those places where an Englishman proposes to live for

himself and for his family.

A wealthy merchant who passes his days in a narrow city street, in a

dingy office, on a wooden stool, and at a plain desk, would think it

very "ungenteel" if he or his family were to live in a street in which

there are shops. And, although it may appear incredible, still it is

true, that in the better parts of the town there are many streets shut

up with iron gates, which gatekeepers open for the carriages and horses

of the residents or their visitors. These gates exclude anything like

noise and intrusion. Grocers, fishmongers, bakers, butchers, and all

other kitchen-tradesmen occupy, in the fashionable quarters, the nearest

lanes and side streets, and many of them live in close vicinity to the

mews. For no house, not even the largest, has a carriage-gate; and that

we, in Germany, shelter under our roofs our horses, grooms, and all the

odours of the stable, appears to the English as strange and mysterious,

generally speaking, as our mustachios, and our liberalism in matters of

religion.

We have endeavoured to draw the line of demarcation between the

residential parts of the town and the business quarters. This being

done, we return to Holborn.

Dr. Keif does not escape the common lot of every stranger in London

streets. His theories of walking on a crowded pavement are of the most

confused description, and the consequence is that he is being pushed

about in a woful manner; but, at each push, he expresses his immoderate

joy at having, for once, got into a crowded street, where a man must

labour hard if he would lounge and saunter about. All of a sudden he

stops in the middle of the pavement, and, adjusting his shirt-collar (a

recent purchase), he takes off his hat and bows to somebody or something

in the road. A natural consequence of all this is, that the passengers

dig their elbows into the Doctor's ribs, as they hurry along.

"To whom are you bowing with so much heroic devotion?"

"Whom? Why to Mr. Falcon, on the other side of the street."

"So you have found an acquaintance already? That is a rare case. Many a

man walks about for weeks without seeing a face he knows; and you have

scarcely left the house when--"

"But do you really think I know that Mr. Falcon on the other side of the

way?" Saying which the mysterious doctor bows again; and I, taking my

glass, find out that there are a dozen Mr. Falcons, hoisted on high

poles, parading the opposite pavement. Twelve men, out at elbows, move

in solemn procession along the line of road, each carrying a heavy pole

with a large table affixed to it, and on the table there is a legend in

large scarlet letters, "MR. FALCON REMOVED." It appears that Mr. Falcon,

having thought proper to remove from 146 Holborn, begs to inform the

nobility, the gentry, and the public generally, that he carries on his

business at 6 Argyle-street.

The Doctor, crossing his arms on his chest gravely, while the passengers

are pushing him about, says:

"Since Mr. Falcon is kind enough to inform me of his removal, I believe

I ought to take off my hat to his advertisement. But only think of those

poor fellows groaning under Mr. Falcon's gigantic cards. He is an

original, Mr. Falcon is, and I should like to make his acquaintance."

Again the Doctor is wrong in fancying, as he evidently does, that Mr.

Falcon sends his card-bearers, with the news of his removal, through the

whole of London. Why should he? Perhaps he sold cigars, or buttons, or

yarns, in Holborn; and it is there he is known, while no one in other

parts of the town cares a straw for Mr. Falcon's celebrated and

unrivalled cigars, buttons, or yarns. His object is to inform the

inhabitants of his own quarter of his removal, and of his new address.

The twelve men with the poles and boards need not go far. From early

dawn till late at night they parade the site of Mr. Falcon's old shop.

They walk deliberately and slowly, to enable the passengers to read the

inscription at their ease. They walk in Indian file to attract

attention, and because in any other manner they would block up the way.

But they walk continually, silently, without ever stopping for rest.

Thus do they carry their poles, for many days and even weeks, until

every child in the neighbourhood knows exactly where Mr. Falcon is

henceforward to be found, for the moving column of large

scarlet-lettered boards is too striking; and no one can help looking at

them and reading the inscription. And this is a characteristic piece of

what we Germans call British industry.

There is no other town in the world where people advertise with so much

persevering energy--on so grand a scale--at such enormous expense--with

such impertinent puffery--and with such distinguished success.

We have just reached a point in Holborn where, a great many streets

crossing, leave a small, irregular spot, in the middle. In the centre of

this spot, surrounded by a railing, and raised in some masonry, is a

gigantic lamp-post, and the whole forms what one might call an island of

the streets. Every now and then the protection of this island is sought

by groups of women and children who, amidst the noise and the wheels of

so many vehicles that dash along in every direction, shrink from a bold

rush across the whole breadth of the street. As Noah's dove thought

itself lucky in having found an olive branch to alight on amidst the

waters of the deluge, so do tender women breathe more quietly, and look

around with greater composure, after having reached this street-island,

where they are safe from the ever-returning tide of street life.

Leaning against the lamp-post we are at leisure to look around and see

the moving beings, things, and objects, which rush past on every side;

and for the nonce we will devote a special attention to the various

advertising tricks.

The time--Night. One of those clear, fogless, calm summer nights which

are so "few and far between" in this large town. The life-blood in the

street-veins runs all the fuller, faster, and merrier, for the beauty

of the night. Holborn is inundated with gas-light; but the brightest

glare bursts forth exactly opposite to us. Who, in the name of all that

is prudent, can the people be who make such a shocking waste of gas?

They are "Moses and Son," the great tailors and outfitters, who have

lighted up the side-fronts of their branch establishment. All round the

outer walls of the house, which is filled with coats, vests, and

trousers, to the roof, and which exhibits three separate side-fronts

towards three separate streets, there are many thousands of gas-flames,

forming branches, foliage, and arabesques, and sending forth so dazzling

a blaze, that this fiery column of Moses is visible to Jews and Gentiles

at the distance of half a mile, lighting up the haze which not even the

clearest evening can wholly banish from the London sky.

Among the fiery flowers burns the inevitable royal crown, surmounting

the equally unavoidable letters V.R. To the right of these letters we

have Moses and Son blessing the Queen in flaming characters of

hydro-carbon; to the left they bless the people.[A]

[A] "God save the Queen," and "God bless the people," are the legends

of these Mosaic illuminations.

What do they make this illumination for? This is not a royal birthday,

nor is it the anniversary of a great national victory. All things

considered, this ought to be a day of mourning and fasting for Messrs.

Moses and Son, for the Commons of England have this very afternoon

decided that Alderman Salomons shall not take his seat in the House.

Motives of loyalty, politics, or religion, have nothing whatever to do

with the grand illuminations executed by Messrs. Moses and Son. The air

is calm, there is not even a breath of wind; it's a hundred to one that

Oxford Street and Holborn will be thronged with passengers; this is our

time to attract the idlers. Up, boys, and at them! light the lamps! A

heavy expense this, burning all that gas for ever so many hours; but it

pays, somehow. Boldness carries the prize, and faint heart never won

fair customers. And if it were not for that c----d police and the

Insurance Companies, by Jingo! it were the best advertisement to burn

the house and shop at least twice a year. That would puff us up, and

make people stare, and go the round of all the newspapers. Capital

advertisement that, eh!

Being strollers in the streets, we delight in this extempore

illumination. It is our object to see and observe; and Messrs. Moses and

Son convert night into day for our especial accommodation. A whole

legion of lesser planets bask in the region of this great sun. Crowds of

subordinate advertising monsters have been attracted to this part of the

street, and move about in various shapes, to the right and to the left,

walking, rolling on wheels, and riding on horseback.

Behold, rolling down from Oxford Street, three immense wooden

pyramids--their outsides are painted all over with hieroglyphics and

with monumental letters in the English language. These pyramids display

faithful portraits of Isis and Osiris, of cats, storks, and of the apis;

and amidst these old-curiosity-shop gods, any Englishman may read an

inscription, printed in letters not much longer than a yard, from which

it appears that there is now on view a panorama of Egypt--one more

beautiful, interesting, and instructive than was ever exhibited in

London. For this panorama--we are still following the inscription--shows

the flux and reflux of the Nile, with its hippopotamuses and crocodiles,

and a section of the Red Sea, as mentioned in Holy Writ, and part of the

last overland mail, and also the railway from Cairo to Alexandria,

exactly as laid out in Mr. Stephenson's head. And all this for only one

shilling! with a full, lucid, and interesting lecture into the bargain.

The pyramids advance within three yards from where we stand, and, for a

short time, they take their ease in the very midst of all the lights,

courting attention. But the policeman on duty respects not the monuments

of the Pharaohs; he moves his hand, and the drivers of the pyramids,

though hidden in their colossal structures, see and understand the sign:

they move on.

But here is another monstrous shape--a mosque, with its cupola blue and

white, surmounted by the crescent. The driver is a light-haired boy,

with a white turban and a sooty face. There is no mistaking that fellow

for an Arab; and, nevertheless, the turban and the soot make a profound

impression.

"We are being invaded by the East!" says Dr. Keif. "They are going to

give a panoramic explanation of the Oriental question. If I were Lord

Palmerston, I'd put a stop to that sort of thing. It's a high crime and

misdemeanour against diplomacy. Pray call for the police!"

But Dr. Keif is wrong again. On the back of the mosque there is an

advertisement, which is as much a stranger to the Oriental question as

the German diplomates are. That advertisement tells us, that Dr. Doem is

proprietor of a most marvellous Arabian medicine, warranted to cure the

bite of mad dogs and venomous reptiles generally; even so, that a person

so bitten, if he but takes Dr. Doem's medicine, shall feel no more

inconvenience than he would feel from a very savage leader in the

_Morning Herald_. The mosque, the blue crescent, the gaudy colours, and

the juvenile Arab from the banks of the Thames, have merely been got up

to attract attention. There need be no very intimate connexion between

the things puffed and the street symbolics which puff them.

Heterogeneous ideas are as much an aid to puffing as homogeneous ideas.

If ever you should happen to go to Grand Cairo, rely on it, every cupola

of a mosque, peeping out from palm-groves and aloe-hedges, will remind

you of Dr. Doem and his Arabian medicine, as advertised in Holborn in

Europe. Allah is great, and the cunning of English speculators is as

deep as the sea where it is deepest.

Hark! a peal of trumpets! Another advertising machine rushes out of the

gloom of Museum Street. In this instance the Orient is not put in

requisition. The turn-out is thoroughly English.

Two splendid cream-coloured horses, richly harnessed; a dark green

chariot of fantastic make, in shape like a half-opened shell, and

tastefully ornamented with gilding and pictures; on the box a coachman

in red and gold, looking respectable and almost aristocratic, with his

long whip on his knee; and behind him the trumpeters, seated in the

chariot, and proclaiming its advent. In this manner have the people of

London of late months been invited to Vauxhall--to that same Vauxhall,

which, under the Regency, attracted all the wealth, beauty, and fashion

in England--which, to this very day, still attracts hundreds of

thousands; whose good and ill fame has crossed the ocean. Even

Vauxhall--the old and famous--makes no exception to the common lot; it

is compelled to have its posters, its newspaper advertisements, and its

advertising vans.

In no other town would such tricks be necessary conditions of existence;

but here, where everything is grand and bulky--in this town of

miraculous extent, where generations live and die in the East-end

without ever having beheld the wonders of the West-end--among this

population, which is reckoned by millions instead of by hundreds of

thousands--here, where all press and rush on to make money or to spend

it--here, where every one must distinguish himself in some way or other,

or be lost and perish in the crowd--where every hour has its

novelty--here, in London, even the most solid undertakings must assume

the crying colour of charlatanism.

The Panorama of the Nile, the Overland Route, the Colosseum, Madame

Tussaud's Exhibition of Wax-works, and other sights, are indeed

wonder-works of human industry, skill, and invention; and, in every

respect, are they superior to the usual productions of the same kind.

But, for all that, they must send their advertising vans into the

streets; necessity compels them to strike the gong and blow the trumpet;

choice there is none. They must either advertise or perish.

The same may be said of great institutions of a different kind; of fire

and life insurance companies; of railways and steamers; and of

theatres--from Punch's theatre in the Strand, upwards, to the Royal

Italian Opera, which ransacks Europe for musical celebrities, and which,

nevertheless, must condescend to magnify its own glory on gigantic

many-coloured posters, though it has managed, up to the present day, to

do without the vans, trumpets, and sham Nubians.

It is either advertising or being ruined. We have said it before. Many

of our readers will think this a bold and unwarranted assertion. It is

neither the one nor the other; for it is founded on the experience of

many men of business. Of many examples we quote but one.

Mr. Bennett keeps a large shop of clocks and watches in Cheapside. His

watches and clocks are among the best in London; they have an

old-established reputation, and they deserve it. But their reputation is

not owing to their excellency alone; it required many years of

advertising, years of continual and expensive advertising, to inculcate

this great fact on the obtuse, bewildered, and deluded Londoners. Thanks

to Mr. Bennett's perseverance they were at length convinced. And, when a

few years ago, the reputation of the firm had spread throughout the

length and breadth of the land, it struck Mr. Bennett that now was the

time to put a stop to this expensive process of advertising. "In

future," said that gentleman, "I mean to take the full interest from my

capital instead of paying part of it to the printers." And he set at

once about it. In the year in which Mr. Bennett took this bold

resolution, the firm spent a few thousand pounds less than usual in

advertisements. But the consequences made themselves felt; and as month

followed month, they became still more disagreeably perceptible. Mr.

Bennett understood that in London virtue is its own reward, provided it

keeps a trumpeter; and as Mr. Bennett was not an obstinate theorist, he

had again recourse to the printing-press. He advertises to this very

day, and to a greater extent, if possible, than formerly. In proof

whereof we quote his advertisement in the Catalogue of the Great

Exhibition, on which occasion he paid £900 (say nine hundred pounds

sterling), for the insertion of his advertisement on the back of the

wrapper.

Mr. Bennett's business is as prosperous as ever. Of course, his watches

were quite as good during the period he did not advertise; but the

public was about to forget him. Advertising is an indispensable item in

the expenditure of a London trader.

While we were talking of Mr. Bennett's shop in Cheapside, the little

lamp-post Square in Holborn has become more quiet. Two coal-waggons,

each with four elephantine, thick-necked, broad-footed horses have

suddenly emerged from the darkness of one of the side-streets. The

half-circle which these clumsy horses must make in order to obtain a

_locus standi_ in the street of Holborn, causes a general stoppage among

the vehicles, which up to the present have been proceeding in regular

order, at an all but uniform pace. For a few moments we are relieved

from the clanking of chains, the rattling of wheels, and the dull

rumbling of wooden pyramids and vans. Now is the time for the lesser

sprites of the advertising mysteries.

A boy on our right puts printed papers into our hands. On the left, the

same process is attempted by an elderly man of respectable appearance,

who jerks his arm with what he believes to be a graceful indifference,

while everybody else would mistake that same jerk for a convulsive

gesture of despondency. Just before us we have a man with a pole and

board, recommending some choice blacking, and on the opposite pavement

there is a Hindoo dressed in white flannel, with a turban on his head,

and with all the sorrow of a ruined nation in his handsome brown face

and chiselled features. At his side is a little girl dressed in filthy

rags. The Hindoo has a bundle of printed papers in his hand,

Sabbatarian, temperance, and other tracts--inestimable treasures--which

he offers to the public at the very low price of one penny each. That

poor fellow got those tracts from some sacred society as a consideration

for allowing them to convert him to Christianity. But his sad face is a

sorry recommendation of the treasures of comfort he proposes to dispose

of. Better for him to stand in primitive nudity among his native

palm-forests, adoring the miracles of nature in the Sun, and in Brahma,

than to shiver here on the cold, wet pavement, cursing the torments of

want in the image of the sacred Saviour. On the banks of the Ganges that

man prayed to God; here, among strangers, he learns to hate mankind. But

then he was a pagan on the banks of the Ganges; on the banks of the

Thames he has the name of a Christian. Whether or no the Christian is

really more religious than the Pagan was, is a question which seems to

give little trouble to the pious missionaries. The Bible Society has

done its duty.

Our worthy friend, Dr. Keif was, it seems, also struck with the

melancholy aspect of the Hindoo. He made a bold rush across the street,

put some pence into the tiny brown hand of the little girl, and took in

return a tract on "True Devotion," which he did not read, but crushing

it into a paper ball, angrily, threw it into the gutter. He had taken

the tract out of consideration for the poor man's feelings. "It's

begging under the pretence of selling," said the worthy Doctor in a

great rage, "but

[Illustration: THE SAUNTER IN HOLBORN.

p. 22.]

since the delusion is a comfort to him, I would not for the world offer

him money without taking one of his papers!"

It was very naughty in the Doctor to fling that tract away as he did. As

a punishment, we were immediately assailed by a set of imps who mistook

us for easy victims on the altars of speculation.

Men with cocoa-nuts and dates, and women with oranges surrounded us with

their carts. One man recommended his dog-collars of all sizes, which he

had formed in a chain round his neck; another person offered to mark our

linen; a third produced his magic strops; others held out note-books,

cutlery, prints, caricatures, exhibition-medals--all--all--all for one

penny. It seemed as if the world were on sale at a penny a bit. And

amidst all this turmoil, the men with advertising boards walked to and

fro; and the boys distributed advertising bills by the hundred, with

smiles of deep bliss, whenever they met a charitable soul who took them.

The coal-waggons are gone, and the street noise is as loud as ever.

Are we to remain here and pursue our studies of the natural history of

advertising vans? It is not likely we shall see them all, for their

numbers are incalculable. They generate according to abnormal laws. Each

day and each event produces another form. The Advertisement is

omnipresent. It is in the skies and on the ground; it swells as the flag

in the breeze, and it sets its seal on the pavement; it is on the water,

on the steam-boat wharf, and under the water in the Thames tunnel; it

roosts on the highest chimneys; it sparkles in coloured letters on

street lamps; it forms the prologue of all the newspapers, and the

epilogue of all the books; it breaks in upon us with the sound of

trumpets, and it awes us in the silent sorrow of the Hindoo. There is no

escaping from the advertisement, for it travels with you in the

omnibuses, in the railway carriages, and on the paddle-boxes of the

steamers.

The arches of the great bridges over the Thames were at one time free

from advertisements. The masonry was submerged by the periodical returns

of the tide, and the bills would not stick. But at length the

advertisement invaded even these, the last asylums of non-publicity.

Since bills could not be pasted on the walls, the advertisement was

painted on them. At this hour there is not an arch in a London bridge

but has its advertisements painted on it. But for whom? For the

thousands who every day pass under the bridge in steamers. For the

Thames, too, is one of the London streets and by no means the least

important one.

Saunterings in and about London · 第 39 / 78 题