natural platform projecting from the shoulder of the hill over the
valley of the Whitadder water, about 250 feet above the bed of the
stream. On this platform there is an irregularly oval enclosure (Fig.
171), the outlines of which are formed by the remains of two parallel
earthworks and an outside ditch. The space thus enclosed is occupied by
the remains of various smaller enclosures, some circular and others
irregular in form. They are nearly all so ruined that nothing can be
made of their details. But the principal structure within the enclosure
is still capable of such examination as will suffice to determine its
typical relationship with the Brochs of the extreme north. It is
circular, consisting of a wall 17 feet thick, enclosing an area of 56
feet in diameter. In the thickness of this wall are two elongated
oval-shaped chambers, one of which is 33 feet long and 7 feet wide, the
other 23 feet long and 7 feet wide. In 1793 the roofs were still on
them, and it was then seen that they were covered with a rude vaulting
of overlapping masonry. Both these chambers open to the inner area. The
only access to this area from the outside is the main doorway, which
passes straight through the wall, and is flanked by a guard-chamber
constructed in the thickness of the wall on either side. To the left of
the doorway are the remains of the staircase, with an elongated chamber
opposite the foot of the stair. No remains of galleries exist owing to
the absence of the whole upper part of the structure, but the presence
of the stair implies that they once existed. The masonry is massive in
character (Fig. 172), and the structure is also remarkable for its great
size, being three times the width of Mousa and twice that of the Glenelg
Brochs. But its features of form and character, and all the arrangements
of its details, so far as they now exist, are those of the typical Broch
structure; and, taken together, they form a group of features and
arrangements which do not exist in any other type of structure.
[Illustration: Fig. 172.—Masonry of Broch on Cockburn Law.]
On the highest elevation of the Torwood, in the parish of Dunipace in
Stirlingshire, are the remains of a circular structure, excavated in
1864 by Colonel Joseph Dundas. Its appearance previous to its excavation
was that of a conical hillock situated nearly on the verge of a
precipitous crag, and enclosed on the accessible side by the remains of
a double wall of fortification. After excavation it was found to be the
ruin of a circular tower of uncemented masonry which, by the gradual
dilapidation of its walls, had become a conical hillock of stones
covered with grass and heather, and overgrown by a clump of large
fir-trees. The structure, now cleared from the superincumbent mass of
ruin, is a circular wall 15 feet thick, enclosing a central area of 35
feet in diameter. The entrance doorway has some of the massive lintels
still upon it. It is about 7 feet high and 3 feet wide at the
door-checks, behind which are the usual bar-holes (shown at A A in the
ground plan and section, Figs. 173, 174). To the left of the doorway is
the staircase, as usual in the thickness of the wall. The height of wall
remaining is not sufficient to show any traces of the galleries, but the
presence of the stair implies their former existence. There are no
chambers in the thickness of the wall on the ground floor, but all the
other features of the building are those of the typical Broch structure.
[Illustration: Figs. 173, 174.—Ground plan and section of elevation of
doorway in Broch at Torwood, Stirlingshire. (Drawn by J. Romilly
Allen.)]
[Illustration: Fig. 175.—Ground plan of the Broch of Coldoch,
Perthshire. (From a Plan by Mr. Ballingall.)]
On the other side of the valley of the Forth, and farther west, at
Coldoch, in Perthshire, a similar mound, covering the ruins of a
circular tower of uncemented masonry, was excavated in 1870. The
structure consists of a circular wall (as shown on the ground plan, Fig.
175) 17 feet thick, enclosing a central area of 30 feet in diameter. The
doorway on the east side passes straight through the wall, and is three
feet wide, with checks for the door about half-way through the thickness
of the wall, and immediately behind them the usual bar-holes. To the
left of the doorway is the staircase. No remains of the upper galleries
exist, but the presence of the stair implies that they did exist.
Opening from the central area are the entrances to three chambers in the
thickness of the wall. They are nearly of a size, 8 feet long, 4 feet
wide, and a little over 6 feet high. One still retains its roof, rudely
vaulted with overlapping masonry. In this case also the group of
features characteristic of the structure and its arrangements is such as
can be found only in the typical structure of the Broch.
These three examples are all that are known on the mainland of Scotland
south of the Caledonian valley. A few years ago they were mere
grass-covered hillocks, indistinguishable from many others that are yet
to be seen in various quarters of the same wide district of country. It
is impossible to say how many of these unexamined mounds, which exist
abundantly in the valleys of the Forth and Teith for instance, may be of
similar character. But it is possible to say that where three have been
found without being specially looked for, the probability is that more
will be found when they are looked for. The present position of our
knowledge is that there are three examples south of the Caledonian
valley, but if I were to conclude that these three are all that exist in
that wide region I should be drawing from my ignorance of the actual
facts a conclusion which could only be drawn from complete knowledge
obtained by exhaustive investigation.
The case is far otherwise with reference to the district of country that
lies to the north of the Caledonian valley and the isles around the
northern and western coasts. In such remote and frequently rugged and
barren localities the remorseless activity of the agricultural improver
has made but little progress in the removal of the ancient landmarks,
and Brochs, and sepulchral cairns, stone circles and standing monoliths
are still comparatively abundant, though every season diminishes their
number. Some years ago I attempted an enumeration of the remains in the
northern counties of Scotland that were either certainly known to be
Brochs or were inferred to possess that character, judging from external
appearances. The list has been published[72] for seven years, and the
corrections made upon it during that time have not appreciably affected
its total results. These are roughly stated as follows:—in Shetland,
there are 75 Brochs; in Orkney, 70; in Caithness, 79; in Sutherland, 60;
in Ross-shire, 38; and in Inverness-shire, 47; giving a gross total for
the five northern counties of Scotland of 370. Admitting that there must
be some instances included in the enumeration which subsequent
examination may prove to be remains of a different character, it is
equally probable that others will be found which have not been included
in the list, and the errors in these opposite directions may be expected
nearly to balance each other. But if we suppose that it will be
necessary to deduct so large a proportion as 20 per cent, we should
still have a gross total of 300 Brochs in the five northern counties.
The full significance of such a result is scarcely realised at once. It
means that we have here the remains of a period of architectural
activity which has no parallel in the early history of our country.
-----
Footnote 72:
_Archæologia Scotica_, vol. v. pp. 178-197.
-----
Whatever may be the effect of future discoveries in increasing the
number of examples in the district south of the Caledonian valley, it is
clear that the principal area of the type lies within the region to the
north of that valley, comprehending the five northern counties of
Scotland, and including the northern and western Isles. Within that area
they are known to exist abundantly, beyond it sparsely. Out of Scotland
the type is totally unknown. It is a type possessing features so
distinct and peculiar, so numerous and well marked, so pronounced in
their absolute individuality, that if it exists anywhere it is capable
of being instantly recognised. But no single instance occurs in Ireland,
or Wales, or Cornwall. No trace of it is found in England, France, or
Scandinavia. It is absolutely confined to Scotland alone.[73] Having
thus established the essential features of the typical form of the Broch
structure and determined the area to which it is exclusively confined, I
now proceed to notice a few other examples possessing features which may
not have been present or prominent in those previously described.
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Footnote 73:
The Nuraghi of Sardinia are round towers built of uncemented stones.
They are exceedingly numerous in the island, and it has been
occasionally asserted that they bear a remarkable resemblance to the
Scottish Brochs. It is true that they are like the Brochs externally,
because they are round towers, (see Fig. 176), but they possess none
of the characteristic features of the typical Broch structure. They
contain vaulted and windowless chambers placed vertically above each
other in the centre of the tower. The access to these chambers is by a
winding stair, which traverses the thickness of the wall completely
round the central chambers. Sometimes they have a more complex
structure, consisting of a central tower rising from a square
basement, with chambers also in the basement, as shown in the
accompanying section (Fig. 179). It is thus apparent that the typical
Nuraghe differs completely in idea from the typical Broch. Although
the external form may be in some cases similar, the essential features
of the Broch are not found in any one instance in the Sardinian
Nuraghi. No Broch has vaulted chambers disposed vertically over each
other in the centre of the tower, and no Nuraghe has its centre open,
and its chambers, stairs, and galleries arranged in the ring of
walling surrounding the central court and windows looking into it as
the Brochs have.
[Illustration: Fig. 176.—Nuraghe of Goni, in Sardinia.]
[Illustration:
Fig. 177.—Section of Nuraghe, showing form of chambers and spiral
stair.
(From Tyndale’s _Sardinia_.)
]
-----
[Illustration:
Fig. 178.—Broch known as Cole’s Castle, in Sutherlandshire.
(From a sketch by Dr. Arthur Mitchell.)
]
We have already seen that many of these towers were built in positions
that were naturally strong. One of the most remarkable of these is the
Broch of Cole’s Castle in Strathbrora, Sutherlandshire (Fig. 178), which
has been already referred to. It is situated on the top of an isolated
eminence, precipitous on one side, and defended on the side which is
less precipitous by a double fortification of dry-stone walling. Others
whose situations made them capable of being so defended were protected
by ditches and embankments. The Broch of Snaburgh, in the island of
Unst, in Shetland, which stands on a promontory projecting into the
loch, is protected on the land side by a wet ditch and a rampart of
large stones. The Broch of Burraness, in the same island, is
strengthened on the land side by two deep ditches and high embankments.
The Broch of Cullswick was protected by a ditch 13 feet wide, and a
rampart of earth and stones completely encircling the base of the tower.
The Broch of Burraland, which stood on a promontory in the loch, had a
double rampart and a double wet ditch on the land side, both well
defined. The Broch of Yarhouse, in Caithness, stood on a low flat
promontory projecting into the loch, and was cut off from the land by a
deep ditch from 25 to 30 feet wide, and had its doorway further
protected by a long covered way. The Broch of Clickamin, at Lerwick
(Fig. 179), although situated on an island in the loch, was fortified by
a wall completely surrounding the island. Within this outer wall of
defence there is an outwork or guard-house, in form a segment of a
circle, 43 feet on its convex face, connected with the outer wall by a
passage. The outwork is 19 feet wide at the passage through it, slightly
narrower at the ends. The passage is 8 feet high, and about 5 feet in
from the outer face of the work it narrows to 2 feet 11 inches, with
checks for a door. Behind these are holes in the opposite walls for a
bar and a slit in the roof of the passage. Besides these two exterior
defences the doorway of the tower itself had checks and a sill for a
door about 10 feet within the outer opening of the entrance passage
through the wall of the Broch. This passage is 4 feet 10 inches high,
and the opening between the door-checks is 2 feet 11 inches wide at the
bottom and 2 feet 6 inches at the top, with bar-holes on either side.
[Illustration: Fig. 179.—General plan of Broch of Clickamin, near
Lerwick, Shetland, showing the walled island and causeway leading to it.
(From a plan by Sir H. Dryden.)]
[Illustration: Fig. 180.—Diagrammatic Section of East Broch of Burray.
(From _Archæologia Scotica_, vol. v.)]
The East Broch of Burray, in Orkney, explored by Mr. Farrer, presented
the appearance of a green mound 20 feet high, surrounded by an
embankment. The mound when excavated was found to cover the lower
portion of a circular tower of uncemented masonry (Fig. 180). The wall
of the tower was 15 feet thick, enclosing a central area 36 feet in
diameter. The entrance passage as usual went straight through the wall,
and had a guard-chamber opening from it on either side. The entrance to
one of these is shown in the section and the bar-hole behind it. There
were two other chambers constructed in the thickness of the wall opening
from the central area, and the entrance to the stair was placed as usual
to the left of the doorway, but on a higher level. In all its features
it closely resembles all that have been described, but in one feature it
differs from them. Close to the doorway, but outside the wall, there is
a well with a passage and steps leading down into it. There are other
examples which exhibit the same feature.
[Illustration: Fig. 181.—Diagrammatic Section of the Broch of
Borrowston, showing the well in the area. (From _Archæologia Scotica_,
vol. v.)]
[Illustration: Fig. 182.—Broch at Manse of Harray. (From a Plan by Mr.
George Petrie, 11⁄16 inch to 1 foot.)]
The Broch of Borrowston, in Shapinsay (Fig. 181), also in Orkney,
consisted of a wall 13 feet thick, enclosing a central area 33 feet in
diameter. Within the central area of the Broch there was a well 10 feet
deep, the lower part dug out of the solid rock, and the upper part faced
with dry-built masonry. The Broch of Okstrow, at Birsay in Orkney, which
consisted of a wall 12 feet thick, enclosing an area 45 feet in
diameter, had a well within the area and a drain from it leading out to
the outside of the structure. The Broch near the Manse at Harray (Fig.
182), excavated by Rev. Dr Traill, consisted of a wall 12 feet thick,
enclosing an area about 33 feet in diameter. It was surrounded by
outbuildings, which were not properly explored. There were no
guard-chambers on either side of the passage (B), which shows the checks
for the door, at 6 feet within the outer face of the wall. To the left
of the main entrance is the usual chamber (H) at the foot of the stair
(G), of which 19 steps remain; and two other oval chambers (E and F),
placed at nearly equal distances in the circumference of the wall,
complete the resemblance to the general type. Near the middle of the
area a subterranean passage terminating in five steps led to a well (D)
9 feet deep excavated in the rock. The subjoined sectional diagram (Fig.
183) shows the construction of the well, which still retained water when
the excavation of the Broch was made. The Brochs of Skinnet, Harpsdale,
and Kettleburn in Caithness, had each a well within the central area.
The well of the last-mentioned Broch is still utilised as the existing
water supply for the cottars, who live in houses close by constructed of
the stones removed from the site of the ancient structure.
[Illustration:
Fig. 183.—Section of the Well in the Broch at Manse of Harray.
(From a plan by Mr. George Petrie.)
]
The central areas of several Brochs have been provided with drains to
convey the surface water outside the building. This same Broch of
Kettleburn had a drain which passed out under the foundation of the wall
of the tower. It was what is now called a self-cleansing drain, the flat
stones forming the water channel being set together in the form of the
letter V. Sir Henry Dryden remarks the presence of drains in the Broch
of Clickamin. I found a square drain leading from the court of a Broch
which I excavated at Brounaben, in the parish of Wick.
The facts that many of these structures were thus provided with
drainage, and that they had also secured a water-supply within the
enclosed area of the building, are not only significant indications of
intelligence and forethought applied to the arrangement of
constructional details, but when taken in connection with all the other
arrangements of the structure external and internal, they complete a
series of characteristics which point definitely to one object as the
chief intention of the Broch-structure, viz. security obtained by the
simplest of all means—a construction of uncemented stones which could
neither be easily forced nor readily reduced.[74]
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Footnote 74:
That this object was practically attained by these simple means we
have evidence in one case from the direct testimony of record. It is
related in the _Orkneyinga Saga_, that Erlend, who (about A.D. 1155)
carried off the widow of Maddad, Earl of Athol, took her north to
Shetland, and took up his residence in Moseyarborg—the Broch of Mousa,
described at the commencement of this Lecture. It is said that her son
Harald, Earl of Orkney, pursued Erlend, and besieged him in the Borg,
“but it was difficult to take it by assault,” and the siege failed
because “Erlend had made great preparations.” This is the only record
of the actual use of a Broch as a place of defence, and it bears out
the inference drawn from an examination of the nature and arrangements
of the structure, that it was difficult to take by assault, and
equally difficult to reduce by siege, if the defenders were provided
with supplies. It is also stated in the Saga of Egil Skalagrimson,
that about two centuries and a half before this time (or somewhere
about A.D. 900), Bjorn Brynjulfson, fleeing from Norway with Thora,
Roald’s daughter, because her father would not consent to their
marriage, was shipwrecked on the island of Mousa, landed his cargo and
lived in the Borg during the winter, celebrating his marriage in it,
and afterwards sailed for Iceland.—_The Orkneyinga Saga_ (Edinburgh,
1873), p. cxi. and chap. 92.
-----
Reviewing the typical characteristics of the special form of structure
which has come to be known in recent years by the local northern name
Broch, we see that it is a hollow circular tower of dry-built masonry,
rarely more than 70 or less than 40 feet in its total diameter, and
occasionally at least 50 feet high. Its circular wall, which may be from
9 to 20 feet thick, is carried up solid for about 10 feet, except where
it is pierced by the entrance, or partially hollowed by the construction
within its thickness of oblong chambers with rudely-vaulted roofs. Above
this height the wall is carried up with a vacancy of about 3 feet wide
between its exterior and interior portions. At every 5 or 6 feet of its
height this vacancy is crossed by horizontal ranges of slabs inserted as
ties between the outer and inner shells of the wall, so that their upper
surfaces form a floor to the space above and their under surfaces become
a roof to the space below. These spaces thus form horizontal galleries
about 6 feet high and 3 feet wide, separated from each other vertically
by the slabs of their floors and roofs. They run completely round the
tower except that they are crossed successively by the stair which gives
access to them. They are lighted by ranges of peculiarly-constructed
windows placed vertically over each other, and all looking into the
central area enclosed by the wall of the tower. This area or court
varies from 20 to 45 feet in diameter. At various points of its interior
circumference are placed the openings which give access to the chambers
on the ground floor within the wall, and to the stair which ascends to
the galleries. The only aperture on the outside of the tower is the
doorway formed by the external opening of the tunnel-like passage
through the wall which gives access to the central court. It is always
on the ground level, square-headed, usually with slightly inclined
sides,[75] 5 to 6 feet high, and rarely more than 3 feet wide, passing
straight through the thickness of the wall, and thus varying from 9 to
18 feet in length. Some 4 feet or thereby within the outer end of the
passage there is a rebate of the masonry faced with strong slabs
inserted edgewise in the wall, and forming checks for a door, behind
which are the bar-holes, and behind them the opening of a guard-chamber
built in the thickness of the wall.
-----
Footnote 75:
Having mislaid my measurements of the doorways of Caithness Brochs, I
am unable to give examples from that county. But I am favoured, by the
Rev. Dr. J. M. Joass of Golspie, with the following measurements of
the doorways of Sutherlandshire Brochs:—
Height of Breadth of
Doorway. Doorway.
Above. Below.
Ft. In. Ft. In. Ft. In.
Broch of Carnliath—
Door in Outworks 5 9 2 10 3 9
Door in Broch Wall—
Outer Opening 6 6 2 5 2 9
In middle of 6 0 2 7 3 0
Passage
Inner Opening 6 6 3 0 3 5
Broch of Kintrolla—
Door in Broch Wall—
Outer Opening 7 0 3 0 3 6
In middle of 5 5 2 3 2 8
Passage
Inner Opening 4 11 1 9 2 9
Broch of Backies—
Door in Broch Wall—
(2 feet of rubbish in passage,
height above that 4 feet.)
Outer Opening 2 11 3 3
In middle of 2 1 2 6
Passage
Inner Opening 2 9 3 8
I learn from Mr. W. G. T. Watt that the doorway of the Broch of
Burwick, near Stromness, in Orkney, which is 5 feet 2 inches in
height, measures 3 feet 1 inch in width at the top, and 3 feet 5
inches at the bottom. From these examples and the measurements of the
doorways of Shetland brochs by Sir Henry Dryden, it may be held as
demonstrated that the characteristic feature of inclined instead of
perpendicular door-jambs, which was constant in the constructions of
the early Christian time, was also characteristic of the Brochs.
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