_Calais.—English Channel Experience.—Reaching the Pier.—Going
Ashore.—London.—The Fog.—Show Lights.—British Museum.—National
Gallery.—The Tricky Monkey.—Westminster Abbey.—The Tower._
The next point of interest to be visited was London, England; so early
one morning we took the train at Cologne, traveled all day, and arrived
after dark at Calais, a town of France. At this point we left the railway
and went aboard the steamer which conveys passengers and mail across the
Channel to Dover, a distance of perhaps twenty-six miles.
There is a fine harbor at Calais, but owing to the darkness of the night
we were not able to see it then. There was not a moment of time to lose,
for the steamer was ready to start back on her return trip to Dover.
There were but few passengers on board that evening, and down deep in
my heart I wished we had been among the number who had wisdom enough to
remain on shore. But one is not always able to see the danger which may
be ahead, and must therefore suffer the consequences.
As soon as the steamer left the harbor we felt very sure a trying time
was in store for us; but it was too late to turn back, so we tried to
make the best of the situation by making ourselves comfortable. The
English Channel is affected very much by storms on the coasts, and at
such times the waters become greatly troubled; so much so that ships are
wrecked and many lives lost. On this particular day a very severe storm
raged; it had started on the Irish coast and by the time the Channel
was reached there was a genuine cyclone. The wind blew a gale and the
breakers dashed against the steamer until the little thing rolled and
pitched shockingly. Truly we were in dangerous waters, and we were made
to feel it more keenly after hearing an order given to the sailors to
“take down the life-buoys.” Never before in our journeyings by sea had
such an order been given in our hearing; so you may believe it made me
sick at heart. Seasickness did not trouble us, strange to say, though the
steward came to us often, thinking perhaps we should need assistance; but
there was nothing needed excepting a quiet sea. Each time the man came
around husband asked, “How are we getting along now? Shall we soon be
over?” and the reply came, “This is a very bad night, sir; but we hope to
make the pier.”
Seasickness would have been a small thing to endure compared to the
distress which followed, for by this time my nerves were unstrung and I
was in agony. Nothing could be done but bear the distress, and silently I
groaned prayer after prayer to the Father above. Very few were my words,
for I remembered the Lord did not hear us alone for our much speaking,
and in such a perilous situation one does not stop to choose the words he
may utter. Again and again I groaned, “O Lord, keep thy watchful eye upon
us; and I pray thee keep thy children from the dangers of this angry
sea.” We placed ourselves in the hands of the Lord, and oh what a feeling
of security there was; and in the words of the Psalmist we were able to
say, “The Lord, he is my refuge and my fortress: my God, in him will I
trust.” Yes, even though our bodies trembled, our hearts were strong in
him, and we trusted. The Lord had been especially good to us, not because
we were deserving, but perhaps because he wanted us a little longer on
the earth that his servant—my husband—might have a longer time in which
to tell of the “truths of God’s Word.”
We read that “they that seek the Lord shall not want any good thing,”
and in my Christian experience I have found the blessings were beyond my
hope. “Come, ye children, hearken unto me: I will teach you the fear of
the Lord.” He desires boys and girls in his kingdom. Will you seek him
early? Remember Samuel; he was but a child when he “ministered before the
Lord.” And then think of Daniel; what a good young man he was, for we
read that he had an excellent spirit and “he was faithful; neither was
there any error or fault found in him.” That was a good recommendation;
but we learn more about him; he prayed, and was not ashamed of it
either; for we read of a decree which had been signed by king Darius
and sent out. It said, “Whosoever shall ask a petition of any god or
man for thirty days, save of thee, O king, he shall be cast into the
den of lions.” Daniel no doubt felt badly when he heard of the decree;
but nevertheless he went three times a day and prayed as had been his
custom. The result you know.
My young readers, do you want good examples of Christians? then pattern
after these boys of whom I have written. The Lord watched over them; he
delivered Daniel from the lion’s den into which he had been cast for
praying. Do you know he will help you to bear the scoffs and jeers of
your comrades if you should forsake them and follow him? You know “Jesus
said unto Simon, Fear not”? And to you he says the same. Will you think
of these things?
In thinking over the experience on the Channel I call to mind a sound
which, though far away, proved to be soothing in its effect. I imagine
you say, What was it? So I’ll tell you that while lying upon my couch
that night I heard a sailor off in a distant part of the steamer hurrying
around performing his duties; and while doing so he whistled in a
cheery, joyful tone. The waves were breaking high then, and perhaps the
sailor never thought the sound would reach the ears of any one except
his comrades who were rushing around near by him. But a current of wind
brought the music to me and from now till I leave this world I shall
never forget that whistling. For a few minutes self was forgotten and my
nerves quieted, and then there came an end to the whistling, for a voice
called loudly, “She is fast;” and that meant the pier had been gained.
But joy did not come then, for the next thing we knew we were steaming
out to sea again, rolling and pitching as hard as ever.
Twice the attempt was made to gain the landing, but each time the heavy
breakers washed the vessel away. The third attempt was made and success
crowned the effort, when immediately after came the order, “Make haste
and go ashore.” This order was given to the passengers, and as soon as
possible we all undertook the difficult task of getting to the passageway
which led to land. The breakers dashed furiously over the side of the
steamer and great banks of water poured down upon Our heads and backs,
for we stood still with faces turned from the direction of the breaking
waves. We scarcely knew how to reach shore without help, for the water
came with a dash at regular intervals, making it almost impossible for
us to walk. Thinking the sailor might assist us in landing I ventured to
ask him, saying, “Oh, will you not help us over the passageway?” but the
answer came, “No, madam, I dare not.” There was nothing to hinder him
from helping us while upon the boat, so taking my hand we hurried along
over the deck until the inclined passageway was gained, when he left me
to stumble on in the dark. Rain cloaks were of little service that night,
for the salt sea water went through them, and consequently the clothing
was dripping wet.
Land was gained at last, and immediately we entered the cars which were
waiting to carry passengers and mail on to London. After getting our
breath we looked around, and to our utter surprise found that the seats
and floor had been drenched with water which had entered through the
windows, which had been broken by the waves dashing against them while
the cars were standing upon the pier. The admiralty pier is a massive
structure extending out into the sea; and during the storm some of the
immense stones were washed out and carried away. Papers of the following
day gave full accounts of the storm, and the record of shipwrecks was
enormous. It is said the like of such a storm had not been known for
many, many years. I think the memory of it will abide with me while life
shall last, and I shall always feel that the Lord watched over us and
heard our prayers.
Twelve o’clock that night we reached the great city of London, and it was
in a drenching rain. We were taken to a hotel a long distance from the
depot, which place we called home for three weeks. When my health allowed
me, I accompanied my husband to places of interest, but there were very
many days when I was not able to bear the noise upon the streets, so
remained within the cheerless hotel room. All large cities are cheerless
and disagreeable in rainy weather; but it seemed to me the city of
London was the most disagreeable one of all, for there was a great deal
of rain and much foggy weather at that time. The fog becomes very dense
sometimes, and those times it is quite dangerous to be upon the streets.
The city is well lighted, and yet when the fog comes down the lights seem
to be of but little use. Teamsters call out, “Show lights! show lights!”
and as soon as possible the people place lights in every window of their
houses. People who are out walking are unable to know when a horse is
near them, and no doubt many are trampled under the horses’ feet.
We visited many places of great interest while in this large city, and
though I shall not be able to tell of all the attractive objects seen I
will briefly mention a few of them. The British Museum was only a few
blocks from our hotel, so much of our time was spent there looking at the
relics which had been collected from all parts of the world.
There is a “National Gallery” in London, and there you find paintings
of noted artists on exhibition. Almost every day in the week it is open
to the public free; so a great many people spend hours looking at the
beautiful work of man, which is done either with pencil or brush. Many of
the old artists took much pleasure in painting the “Madonna and Child,”
and that means Mary and Jesus; and in almost every instance the face of
the mother is wonderfully beautiful; the child is plump in body and has
a round, full face. Joseph and his brethren, John the Baptist, and other
Bible characters were there, for it seems that noted artists of long ago
spent their time in putting on canvas what they imagined the saints of
old looked like; and most of them are represented as being fine looking
men.
It is impossible for me to write you a description of all the interesting
pieces of art on exhibition there, so we shall leave the Gallery and
visit the Zoological Gardens, for it seemed to be an attractive place
for old and young people. Animals of all countries may be seen there,
and who is it that does not desire to see animals of foreign lands? We
spent one afternoon there, and in our wanderings saw the rhinoceros and
hippopotamus—both natives of Africa. Then there were the great, clumsy
looking elephants, some of which were allowed to walk about without
chains. One of them had a large platform fixed upon his back, and for a
certain sum of money any one who desired could have a ride up one avenue
and down another. There was a man to lead the animal, and you would be
surprised to know how many boys, girls and middle-aged people took the
ride. We watched them, but got no closer.
Children enjoy looking at monkeys, and on the afternoon we were at the
Gardens there were numbers of them at the monkey cages throwing in
crackers, apples and cakes; and oh how the little folks laughed when
a monkey hung by his tail from the perch, or undertook the task of
scratching his neighbor’s head. They are wonderfully tricky; so every
one is cautioned to keep away from the cages, to not get too close to
the wires. Here and there were printed cards which said, “Persons with
spectacles keep away.” You see the monkeys had a habit of snatching off
the glasses, and that accounted for the warning.
A young girl with her lover stood close to the cage that afternoon. She
was decked in the height of style, with an immense bunch of flowers upon
her hat; and over her face was a thin vail. One of the tricky fellows
quick jumped up, ran his thin paws out between the wires and in an
instant had the little face vail in his paws; and jumping on the perch
sat there and tore it in shreds, while occasionally shy glances were cast
at the young girl whose crimson face told of the embarrassment felt, for
all eyes were upon her. Every one around laughed, and the children could
hardly forget the cunning little monkey.
If one of these little fellows saw you put your hand in your pocket,
he was sure you would bring out something for him; and if you gave him
nothing there was a look of disappointment.
The lions, tigers and hyenas were visited next, and we found them
growling, and prancing back and forth. It was feeding time, and
the keeper gave them great chunks of raw meat, which they devoured
ravenously. But evening was drawing near, so we left there and went to
our hotel, reaching there in time for dinner,—the evening meal.
Westminster Abbey is a church, and it is a sacred place for the English
people, for in it are to be seen the tombs of kings, queens and other
noted people. In looking around one is impressed with the thought of
age; and no wonder, for we read that the Abbey had been destroyed by the
Danes, and re-erected by King Edgar in the year 985. But it seems to have
been “entirely rebuilt in the latter half of the 13th century by Henry
the Third and his son Edward the Fifth, who left it substantially in its
present condition.” The Abbey seems almost like a graveyard, for as you
pass up one aisle and down another you behold large monuments erected in
memory of noble men who fell in battle.
How strange it seemed to be standing by the tombs of kings and queens of
whom we had read when school children. There in a vault were the remains
of Charles the Second, William the Third, and Queen Mary his wife. And
further on was the monument of Queen Elizabeth. I might go on and write
many pages of what we saw there, but must leave the gloomy, dismal
place. I wondered how people could worship in a place where there is such
a grand display of monuments and tombs.
The Tower of London is said to be the most interesting spot in England.
It is found outside of the bounds of the ancient city walls. It has four
entrances,—the “Iron Gate, the Water Gate, and the Traitor’s Gate.” These
gates are on the side next to the river Thames. The men who act as guards
are called “Wardens or Beef-eaters.” I think every one of them is a very
old man. The strange term beef-eater is explained as being “a nickname
bestowed upon the ancient yeomen of the guard from the fact that rations
of beef were regularly served out to them when on duty.”
In the Tower is the armory, where may be seen implements of war and
torture, figures of horses almost as natural looking as life, and
soldiers seated upon their backs equipped for war; a good representation
of how the warriors of the time of king Charles First and William the
Conqueror looked when ready for fight. There we saw the beheading block,
axe and mask which were used in the dreadful work of sending people into
eternity.
There is a chapel which no visitors are allowed to enter, and in it are
buried celebrated persons who were beheaded. In the year 1535 the first
person was executed, and in the following year, 1536, Queen Anne Boleyn
was beheaded upon the green; and we stood near the spot where the bloody
deed was done, for a marble slab marks the place. When looking at the
beheading block we could not help but think of the untold agony it could
tell were it but able to speak. Many noted people, both men and women,
were at different times imprisoned in the Tower, placed there to await
the time of execution. But sometimes one of them would be murdered there,
while others again were tortured and then taken away to be burned as
heretics. Those were distressing times, and innocent people suffered.
There are on exhibition in the Tower the crown of Queen Victoria and
many solid gold vessels. Among the collection were beautiful golden
saltcellars. One of them was made in imitation of a large castle and is
beautifully studded with precious stones. There were staffs and scepters
which sparkled with diamonds as they lay in the sunlight. Policemen
guarded well the case which contained them, for not every person is
honest who looks at them, and attempts have been made to break through
the case.
Days seemed to go by rapidly, and three times Sunday came while we were
in London. It was usually a quiet day for a city, as only a few teams
passed on the street in front of our hotel. ’Bus horses had a season of
rest then, for they run on half time. Stores were closed, and even the
hotel employees had rest, for only two meals were allowed the guests.
The whole city had a restful air which made one think the most of the
inhabitants had gone to some place of worship.
There is a house of worship called the “Temple Church,” and Dr. Parker
is the minister; so we decided to go to hear him. The church was
crowded with people, for it proved to be the day of their harvest home
meeting,—something entirely new to us. We were favored with a good seat
and not far from the stand where the learned doctor stood. Upon this
rostrum was a mass of flowers, fruits, vegetables and bread, all arranged
tastefully; yet they did seem to be very much out of place in a church.
However, we overlooked that when we found that each article there was a
free-will offering for the poor and sick, given by any one, and presented
to those who were in need of them. Sick people were the recipients of
flowers, and the bread and vegetables went to the poor and destitute.
At the close of our harvests we sometimes gather together and have a
harvest meeting; but we are not thoughtful enough to bring an offering of
the fruit of our land, as did the English people. If we are blessed with
an abundance would it not be well to divide with less favored ones?
Well, Dr. Parker preached an excellent sermon, and his prayer was so
comforting. Willingly would we have remained longer in the church, but
that was out of the question; so we passed out with the crowd into the
street, and to the place we tried hard to call home. Each Sunday some
place of worship was attended, but we rather preferred Dr. Parker to any
other minister.
Time seemed to pass rapidly away, and by and by we bade adieu to London,
crossed over the Channel and found ourselves safe in France. The English
Channel was rather smooth and the steamer crowded with passengers who had
been waiting for the storm to cease. The passage was delightful, and I
enjoyed the trip as much as a person with shattered nerves might expect
to enjoy it. After riding in the cars three or four hours we reached
the city of Paris, and that you know is the capital of France, and a
very large city. We were there four weeks. Each day we visited places
of interest, such as public buildings, palaces and cathedrals, public
squares and cemeteries. Of the last named there is one called Pere la
Chaise. It contains one hundred and six and a half acres. It is laid out
in avenues and seems almost like a city, with its grand tombs, large
enough to hold many, many people. We noticed that illustrious personages
were buried there, for we saw the names of lords and ladies. Poor people
were not able to buy lots there, so were content to place their dead in
less beautiful places. It is the custom in Paris for persons to take off
their hats on meeting a funeral procession, whether in the country or in
the public streets. That seemed like an odd custom, but one gets used to
many strange sights when abroad.
The sewers of Paris are spoken of very highly, and it is said they are
four hundred and forty-one miles in length. Some of the sewers are wide
enough to allow boats to pass through them, and at certain times of the
year visitors may take a tour through them; but they must first have a
special permit. The river Seine flows through Paris, and small excursion
steamboats take passengers out, thus giving a good view of both sides of
the river and landing them at small towns outside of the city limit.
There is no use for me to try to tell you all we saw in Paris, for each
day there were new sights presented to us. Seeing the fashions seems to
be the highest ambition of some people, and many of them go to Paris for
that purpose. People are able to gratify the desire there, and it is to
be hoped they return home satisfied.
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