HALT AT A FARMHOUSE.--MADE WELCOME.--A STRANGE-LOOKING INTERIOR.--QUEER
BEDS.--SNOWED IN.--EXIT THROUGH THE CHIMNEY.--CLEARING PATHS.--I
RESUME MY JOURNEY.--REACH HAPARANDA.
Soon after we stopped at one of these farms. A trench about fifteen feet
deep had been made, leading to the door of the dwelling-house. Here
lived friends of my driver. I alighted and walked through the narrow
trench and opened the storm door. In the little hall hung long coats
lined with woolly sheepskin; on the floor were wooden shoes, shovels,
axes, etc. A ladder stood upright against the wall.
I opened the other door. As I entered I found myself in a large room. I
saluted the farmer and family. They all looked at me with astonishment,
for I was not one of the neighbors, and who could I be!
The farmer said: "What are you doing, stranger, on the highroad with
snow so deep, and when travelling is suspended, snow-ploughs abandoned,
horses belonging to them gone to the nearest farms? You cannot go
further until the snow packs itself with its own weight, and the
snow-ploughs and rollers are able to work on the road. Did you come here
on skees?"
"No, I drove," I replied.
"Where is your horse?"
"At the gate," I answered.
"Where are you going?" he asked.
"I am going north as far as the extremity of Northern Europe. I want to
be in that land during the time of 'The Long Night,' when no sun is to
be seen for weeks; but I am afraid I cannot travel further for a few
days on account of the deep snow, and I shall have to wait; and as we
cannot go further and reach the post station, I come to ask you if you
can give shelter to a stranger far from his country."
"You are welcome," he replied; and his wife added, "We are poor people,
we have a humble home, for our farm is small, but you will have the best
we have."
"I thank you ever so much," I replied.
The farmer put more wood on the fire, the sticks being placed upright,
in which manner they throw out much more heat, and a sudden blaze filled
the room with a bright glow.
I like these farmers' fireplaces. They are always built of masonry in
one of the corners of the room. The platform is about one foot above the
floor and generally four or five feet square, with a crane to hang
kettles or cooking pots on; and when only the embers remain a trap in
the chimney is closed, to prevent the heat from getting out.
The wife put the coffee kettle over the fire, and one of the daughters
kept herself busy with the coffee mill.
In the mean time my driver came in and was welcomed, and they asked him
about me. When they heard I was from America they shouted, "From
America!" and when they had recovered from their astonishment, the
husband said, "I have a brother in America." The wife said, "I have a
sister and two nieces in America," and tears came into her eyes. They
did also into mine; there was at once a bond of union between us. To
them the United States was so far away, and I was so far from home. They
often thought of their folks and friends who had emigrated to our land.
The family was composed of three daughters and two sons. The girls had
fair hair and large blue eyes, and were strong enough to be victorious
in a wrestling contest with big boys.
The sons helped their father on the farm. The names of the girls were:
Engla Matilda, Serlotta Maria, and Kajsa Maria; the mother Lovisa
Kristina; the father Carl; the sons were Nils and Erik.
The big room was strange-looking. In one corner was the large open
fireplace. A large hand loom, with an unfinished piece of thick coarse
woollen stuff or cloth which was being woven, was in another corner.
Near by were three spinning-wheels; upon one was flax and on the two
others wool. On the walls were shelves for plates, saucers, glasses,
mugs, dishes, etc.
The ceiling was about eight or nine feet in height. There was an opening
in it which was accessible by a ladder. I wanted very much to know what
there was above. Along the walls were several wooden benches like
sofas, upon which the people sat. A large wooden table with wooden
benches and two or three wooden chairs completed the furniture. There
was a trap-door in the middle of the floor, leading into the cellar; and
as this never froze, the potatoes and other vegetables, the butter and
cheese, and ale were kept there.
By the side of the living-room were two doors leading to two small
rooms. One had shelves for pails containing milk and the churn to make
butter with. In the other room were a number of painted chests, with the
initials of the owners upon them, and lots of dresses hanging along the
walls, and a bed.
The husband suddenly disappeared through the trap-door and soon came
back with potatoes and a big piece of bacon. The sight roused my
appetite. The potatoes were washed and boiled, and the pan was put over
the fire and the bacon cut into slices and fried.
The meal was put on a very clean table without tablecloth, and then the
driver and I were bidden to sit down and eat. Our coffee cups were
filled to the brim, and every two or three minutes we were urged to eat
more, to drink more coffee. How good were the potatoes! How good were
the bacon and the cheese and the butter! I thought that that meal tasted
better than any I had eaten in my life.
[Illustration: "The husband suddenly disappeared through the trap-door
and soon came back with potatoes and a big piece of bacon."]
When we stopped, for we had eaten to our hearts' content, with one voice
husband and wife said: "Eat more, eat more;" and before I knew it, our
two cups were filled for the third time, and more potatoes and bacon
were put on our plates. They all seemed so happy to see us eat with such
an appetite.
The dear farmers of Norway and Sweden were always so hospitable and kind
to me. Do not wonder that I love them. No one in these countries has
ever tried to do me harm or ever robbed me of a penny.
After our meal we stretched our legs before the open fireplace. I was
more happy than if I had been in a splendid palace. I forgot the snow
and storm. How nice it was to be in front of a fireplace when the storm
was raging!
The farmer put more sticks on the fire. The room was in a perfect blaze
of light. Gradually the fire died out, and when there were only embers
left he stirred them with the poker until not a particle of flame
appeared, and when there was no danger of fumes he shut the trap so that
no heat would escape through the chimney. The time of going to bed had
come.
I was wondering all the time where we were all going to sleep, for there
were no beds in sight. "Perhaps," said I to myself, "we are all going up
the ladder to sleep upstairs. Perhaps we are going to sleep on the
floor." But I did not see any mattress, sheepskins, or home-made woollen
blankets anywhere--and these when together would have made a big pile.
Suddenly I saw the daughters come to the bench-like sofas and pull out
a drawer out of each sofa. These were to be the beds. They were filled
with hay, with two sheepskins on the top to be used as sheets and
blankets.
These sliding boxes could be made of different widths, according to the
number of occupants that were to sleep in the same bed.
I said to myself, "Strange-looking beds these," when one of the girls
said, "Sometimes we can squeeze five or six into one of these beds." I
was glad I was not going to be the fifth or sixth, for we should have
been packed like sardines or herring.
When everything was ready the boys ascended the ladder and went to sleep
upstairs. A bed was given me, and the rest of the family slept in their
own, two girls sleeping in one bed. Then we bade each other good-night.
How warm and comfortable were my sheepskins!
In the middle of the night I heard the howling of the wind; a terrific
gale was blowing. How thankful I felt to be under shelter! Early in the
morning, while still in bed, I was startled by the shouts of one of the
boys: "Father, we are snowed in! We cannot get out of the house!"
"Are we snowed in?" I exclaimed.
"Yes," shouted the two boys at the same time. I jumped out of bed to
find out if it was a joke. It was true!
The boys were delighted, and said with great glee: "The wind has filled
all the trenches with snow. We shall have to get out through the
chimney. What fun that will be!"
I thought also that it would be fun. I had never got out of a house
through the chimney, and I was anxious now to do it, for I might never
get another chance.
Everybody was now out of bed. "It is good that the cellar is full of
potatoes and that a sack of the Russian flour has not been touched, so
we have plenty of food," said the father. "Besides, there is bacon,
cheese, and butter," said one of the girls. Another added, "We have
inside firewood for three days without being obliged to go to the
woodshed."
The farmer said, "There has never been so much snow during living man's
memory. Old Pehr, my neighbor, whom I went to see yesterday, and who is
eighty-four years old, said that he never remembered such a snowstorm."
I thought of the poor horse that had worked so hard to bring us here.
"Boys, we must make the way clear to the stable and feed your horse and
mine," I said. "Let us hurry and go out through the chimney."
"They are all right," said the father; "I left so much fodder before
them that they will not starve even if we could not reach them to-day."
"Dear horses, how useful to us," I said. "I often wonder that there are
some men so cruel and so hard-hearted as to beat the poor animals when
they have not strength enough to carry the heavy load put upon them, or
to make them work when they are ill. It is a good thing that there are
societies in many countries for the prevention of cruelty to horses and
other animals."
"It is so," said they all with one voice; "we do not know of any one
among our neighbors who is unkind to his horse. We do not know what we
should do if our poor horse were ill."
"Yes," said one of the girls, "when he was a colt our horse used to put
his head through the door to get pieces of potatoes and apples. We love
him!"
The ladder was fetched and put into the chimney. There was no trouble
about that, for the chimney was so wide. The shovels were brought in.
There were three of them. Then Nils ascended the ladder, and afterwards
crept to the top. This was a hard job. Erik followed, and succeeded also
in reaching the roof. Then we heard voices coming down the chimney.
"Father," called the boys, "tie the shovels to the cord we drop." They
had taken the precaution of carrying a cord with them. The shovels were
hauled up.
[Illustration: "The boys got hold of my hands and pulled me through."]
Then my turn came to go through. I got into the chimney first, and saw
the faces of Nils and Erik peeping down. "It is all right. Come on, Herr
Paul." I ascended the ladder, then crept up the rest of the chimney. The
boys got hold of my hands and pulled me through. What a sight! I was
black with soot. Nils and Erik were likewise. We gave three great
hurrahs. We shouted through the chimney to the folks with great glee,
"Be patient, you will get out by and by."
We worked with a will, and succeeded in clearing the trench leading to
the door, and there was a great shout of joy when it opened. Then the
girls came out and joined us in making the way clear to the barn, to the
two horses, five cows, and twelve sheep. When we opened the door of the
barn the horses neighed, the cows lowed, and the sheep baaed. It was a
fine concert of voices. They were glad to see us. It was their way of
bidding us welcome.
Returning to the house we cleared the windows, then the well, of snow.
The well was surrounded by a mass of ice. We drew water and gave a good
drink to the horses and the other animals. The girls milked the cows,
and gave fresh fodder to all.
When our work was done we were all as hungry as the wolves are in
winter, when they have had no food for days.
In the mean time the mother had prepared a big meal for us, and we
entered the house. We were ready to do justice to the food. The potatoes
and the bacon quickly disappeared. After the meal we cleared the other
windows of snow, and made passages to them, so that light might come
through. It was a hard day's work all round!
When supper time came we seated ourselves before a big wooden bowl of
porridge called "groed," made from barley meal. On each side were two
wooden bowls filled with sour milk. We ate with wooden spoons from the
same dish. There were no plates for supper, and once in a while we took
a spoonful of sour milk to help the groed go down. I always enjoy eating
with wooden or horn spoons.
I went to sleep in the loft this time. I wanted to be near Nils and
Erik. They were fine boys, and we were friends. Did we not sleep well
that night! We did not awake until their father came to shake us.
"There is nothing like shovelling snow to make one sleep," we all said,
after we awoke.
The next day the women were very busy a great part of the day. Engla
spun flax on her spinning-wheel, Serlotta carded wool, and Maria wove a
thick woollen cloth to be turned into garments for three new suits for
her father and two brothers, while the mother knitted woollen stockings.
I remained three days on this farm. During that time the snow had packed
and the snow-ploughs followed by the rollers had made their reappearance
on the highroad. It was time for me to leave, for I was in a hurry, and
I had to travel nearly nine hundred miles before I could reach Nordkyn.
When I left I put some money into the hands of the wife, and when she
felt it in her hand she said, "No, no; to be paid for giving food and
shelter to a person who is overtaken by a storm, is a shame. What would
God think of me for doing that? No, no;" she said again, with more
earnestness.
I succeeded at last, after much insistence, in overcoming her scruples
and making her take it; and once more I was on the road leading
northward.
Travelling was still very difficult. I came late to a post station where
I intended to spend the night, for I was very tired. The place was
filled with travellers and all the beds were taken. Men slept on
benches, on the top of the table, and on the floor. These were
travellers who had been detained on the road and were once more on their
way southward.
I saw a space on the floor between two men--just enough for me to get
in--and I quietly stepped over three fellows who were fast asleep and
made for the empty place, and went to sleep in my fur coat.
The next morning I was once more on the long and tedious road leading
north, towards "The Land of the Long Night." That afternoon I reached
the little town of Umea.
The days had become shorter and shorter. The sun was very low at noon
and was not above the horizon more than one hour. As I travelled further
north I was surprised to notice that the snow diminished rapidly. I had
left the great "Snow Land," or snow belt, which seemed to be between 62
and 64 degrees north, behind me.
After changing horses at several post stations I came to the little
towns of Skelleftea, Pitea, and Lulea, and at last I reached Haparanda,
situated at the extreme northern part of the Gulf of Bothnia, at the
mouth of the Torne river, the most northern town in Sweden.
At Haparanda I had driven about seven hundred and forty miles from
Stockholm, and over twenty-five hundred miles since I had left the
mountains of Norway. I was only forty-one miles south of the Arctic
Circle, which is the most southerly part of "The Land of the Long
Night."