FOUNDATIONS THAT SLENDERIZE
Although this is termed the corsetless era, the best dressed women are
still wearing corsets and will continue to wear them because they
realize the necessity of retaining lovely curves and lines. When the
slender woman is careful about her corset, what must the responsibility
be of the large woman? It is just this—that she must wear a corset—that
she must select it with such care and have it fitted with such
perfection that even she can forget it once it is on. No evidence of a
corset is ever seen on a correctly dressed woman.
THE ART OF SELECTING YOUR CORSET
Wear corsets for comfort and perfection in dress, not with the thought
that they will reduce. Remember that you always need your wits and all
the alacrity of thought you can master and a too tight corset paralyzes
both.
Read with me through this section because here you will get some real
help and be able to _apparently_ reduce your hip measure two inches and
your bust possibly six.
Do you know that when your corset is a 28 waist or over you are counted
by the corset manufacturers in the stout class? That seems absurd. One
would think they would wait at least until the measurement was 30 or 32
before calling one stout, but since this is so, no one need be sensitive
about ordering a size that is right. That means large enough usually,
for you have a long range—26 to 46 waist measurement—so buy a corset
that is big enough, that allows the flesh to rest comfortably yet be
properly controlled. Tight corsets are a menace as are tight brassieres,
and by packing the flesh in a fixed position, grace of movement is
destroyed and you are made to appear actually larger than you are.
HOW TO KNOW WHEN YOUR CORSET FITS EXACTLY
Don’t ever let your modesty or your pride keep you from being fitted
properly. All merchants and corsetieres expect to fit the corsets they
sell. They know their stock better than you do, and realize that a
proper corset can definitely and permanently help in correcting line,
moulding it easily and gracefully, making a satisfied customer for them.
A full proportioned figure is ugly only when it runs over. Graceful,
even curves are pleasing to see, and we big folk can make our own curves
graceful if we will.
[Illustration:
Your corset should be long enough to hold the flesh securely and
evenly. But the front stays must be short enough to allow you to sit
and bend comfortably.
]
Always sit down in your corset when it is being fitted to make sure that
the stays in the front are not too long. They may be shortened easily
and are much better, because you cannot comfortably sit rared back as
you must when the stays are too long.
[Illustration:
“A” illustrates a corset long over the hips and with elastic inserts
at the waistline, suitable for a medium figure.
“B” shows a heavier type suitable for short figures that require
considerable support.
“C” shows a very comfortable and practical corset suitable to medium
large figures.
“D” shows the front and back of a girdle corset with elastic inserts.
This gives a youthful line, particularly suited to the athletic
type.
]
[Illustration:
Rubber, or silk and rubber corsets or combination corsets and
brassieres give a smooth outline and often are graceful and
becoming. When new they reduce the hips two to three inches. Be sure
to have them fitted properly. If too small, they are very
uncomfortable; if too large, useless.
Corsets that lace or fasten in the front give a smoother back and are
more easy to adjust than are back lace corsets. Their height,
length, elasticity and weight must be considered in buying and
fitting, so that your corset when on is in nowise evident to you in
feeling or to the eye. A corset does not fit correctly if the line
of either top or bottom is visible when the dress is on. Corsets
should be kept in perfect repair and discarded when their line is
lost.
]
WHICH IS YOUR TYPE OF CORSET?
Some corset folks say there are eleven types of women to fit, others
nine, others six. But, in general, these are the usual types:
Mrs. Brown is big in the hips and small in the bust. For her type of
figure a corset low above the waist, long in the hips—front laced, is
best. Supple corsets, long in the back, are a preventative against a
large back and help to slenderize. They should, therefore, be worn as
long as grace and comfort will allow. If they are too short, a roll of
fat will form around where they terminate and cause you to lose the easy
curve that even big folks can be proud of. Mrs. Brown should also have a
slip to wear over the corset in preference to a brassiere. The slip
should be semifitted, shaped over the hips so that not a wrinkle or line
will show.
Mrs. Jones—another stout type—is normal size but large in the abdomen.
She should have a corset fitted close over the hips, but not tight in
the waist, allowing the fat to drop down in the top of the corset and
find a comfortable resting place. A brassiere that is long in the front
should be worn.
A square shoulder, broad hip type of figure needs a deep girdle—an
elastic one is best—one that is low in the waist, snug and straight over
the hips with an easy fitting boyish form brassiere.
THE BEST KIND OF BRASSIERE FOR YOU
“And what is a boyish form brassiere?” you ask. A straight piece of
material with the darts coming down from the top in the front. You can
make one for yourself in a few minutes. For a fashionable line across
the bust don’t ever dart from the waistline up, as we have been doing in
the past. For when you do, the fullness is pushed up under the chin, as
it were, and actually will add six inches to the bust measure. If you
are small in the waist and large in the hips, you can, by right
corseting and “brassiering” cause some of the fat of the hips and
abdomen to come up slightly, thus acquiring a more slender and better
balanced effect. But as a general rule, let your watchword be:
Distribute the fat comfortably and correctly. Don’t crowd it or push it
here and there. Your face, your disposition, and your figure as well
will show it if you do. You can’t be uncomfortable and be well poised.
[Illustration:
Brassieres are as necessary as corsets. They should never be so tight
as to bind, but always close enough to give a smooth outer line.
They must always be high enough to confine the bust perfectly and
long enough to come down well over the corset so that an unbroken
waistline is attained.
Darts at the tops of brassieres give good bust control and hold the
garment in correct position on the figure.
]
Hunt for the “large above the waist” figure. If the bust is very low, be
sure to wear a brassiere that lifts up slightly and confines
comfortably. Youth in its greatest perfection can have unconfined busts;
older women, especially large women, should take care that no shaping of
the bust is discernible. If V necks are becoming and the bust is full,
provide a band of ribbon or a double fold of Georgette and wear it over
the brassiere, pinning it tight and high around the figure. This will
conceal the crease between the busts.
Finally, don’t fail, when you are being fitted in your corset, to stand
up in front of a mirror, walk right up and “shoulder arms” and survey
yourself. The corsetiere is sure to be stout. Who ever saw a thin one?
She will sympathize with you and be patient. Try on her best models—not
her silkiest ones, but her best designed ones. Sit down, stand up, bend
over. Buy the one that shows the least red in your face when you bend.
Be sure it has plenty of supporters.
[Illustration:
Left—Corselettes may be worn by large women having firm flesh, the
“athletic type,” but exercise must go with them to prevent an
accumulation of flesh that is sure to occur when the body is
unconfined.
Right—Brassieres for evening wear may have a firm band of ribbon sewed
tight to the top and this brought around and pinned securely at the
center back. Drawing this close will insure the garments staying up
properly.
]
THE IMPORTANCE OF SMOOTH, PERFECT FITTING UNDERTHINGS
Put your corset under your arm, stop and buy 2½ yards of 40–inch
nainsook or crêpe de Chine, go home and make yourself a combination
slip. This is to be worn over your corset and brassiere and will give a
perfectly smooth foundation for your dresses. Remember that your corset,
brassiere, and slip must be so well fitted that no bumps or hangovers
will be evident.
We fat women—and I don’t know why—have a natural hankering for lacy
underwear, and that hankering is just as uncontrollable as our appetite
for luscious bonbons. I do not intend to tell you that you can’t have
lovely undergarments, but you must make sure that the lace or trimming
is put where it cannot bulge out.
Knitted underwear fits best, but you needn’t wear just the most ordinary
kind, because with a little ingenuity a plain, inexpensive piece can be
bought and trimmed attractively with bands or strips of lace, straight
line fashion, so that they will have a dainty, handmade look and yet be
as smooth and straight on the body as can be. Combination suits similar
to those illustrated are suggested for slenderness. If you have ruffles
on any that you have in the dresser drawer, take them off. Press out the
ruffles and stitch the bands on plain. Don’t indulge in ruffles!
[Illustration:
A variety of slips are shown. The one at the left has a 2–inch band of
fine net at top and bottom. This as a substitute for lace is quite
as dainty and less bulky.
For a full bust, the diagonal darts at the right are advantageous, as
they make possible a straight slim skirt.
]
[Illustration:
For your slips remember that stripes partially concealed are effective
yet unobtrusive, as for example, a striped slip under a plain voile
or georgette dress. If you are broad through the shoulders, shape
the slip to reduce the width. Deep hems make extra petticoats
unnecessary. Fulness in a slip is essential, otherwise the garment
will pull up when you sit down, making you seem stouter than you
are. An inverted plait at the center back or at the sides is the
best way to add fulness.
]
[Illustration:
In selecting underwear, choose light-weight, smooth, close-fitting
garments—fine knitted ones or those of softest muslin.
A shirt and bloomers are preferred by some—others, the straight
combination. Select that which suits you best, but keep in mind the
essentials of slenderness.
]
Omit all draw ribbons at the top of lingerie. Use tiny lengthwise darts
to fit the garments close and smooth.
For the same reasons, omit all gathers at the waistline. Fit the garment
so smooth that not a wrinkle or line is visible when the dress is on.
By following these really simple rules in regard to your underthings you
are ready to give your attention to the part of your costume which
shows; namely, dress, wrap, and hat, but don’t make the mistake of
thinking that these are the only things that show. For without smooth,
perfectly fitting underwear, corset, brassiere and slip, your outer
garments cannot possibly give you that appearance of sylph-like
slenderness which is your goal.