I attended several large assemblies at Washington, and must here, after
a second visit, and so much experience as my opportunities afforded,
enter my protest against the sweeping ridicule it has pleased some
writers to cast upon these doings here; since I saw none of those
outrageously unpresentable women, or coarsely habited and ungainly men,
so amusingly arrayed by some of my more observant predecessors. I can
only account for it by referring to the rapid changes ever taking place
here, and to which I have alluded in my introduction to these
"Impressions."
The ordinary observances of good society are, I should say, fully
understood and fully practised at these public gatherings, and not more
of the ridiculous presented than might be observed at any similar
assemblage in England, if half so much; since here I have commonly found
that persons who have no other claims to advance save money or a seat in
the legislature, very wisely avoid _reunions_, where they could neither
look to receive nor bestow pleasure.
It is quite true that many of these members, all of whom are by rank
eligible to society, may be met with, who are more rusty of bearing than
most of those within St. Stephen's; but I will answer for this latter
assembly outfacing them in samples of rudeness, ill-breeding, and true
vulgarity: for it is a striking characteristic of the American, that, if
not conventionally polished perhaps, you will rarely find him either
rude or discourteous; whilst amongst those who, in the nature of the
government, are elevated from a comparatively obscure condition to place
and power, although refinement cannot be inserted as an addendum to the
official diploma, the aspirant usually adopts with his appointment a
quiet formal strain of ceremony, which protects himself, and can never
give offence to any.
In the absence of that ease and self-possession which can only be
acquired by long habitual intercourse with well-bred persons, this
surely is the wisest course that could be adopted, and a hundred degrees
above that fidgety, jackdaw-like assumption of _nonchalance_ with which
the ill-bred amongst ourselves seek to cover their innate vulgarity.
At all these assemblies, as elsewhere, great real attention is paid to
women; and I vow I have, in this respect, seen more ill-breeding, and
selfish rudeness, at a fashionable rout in England, than could be met
with, at any decent crush, from Natchetoches to Marble-head. Beyond
these points within the States I speak not, since without them the land
is strange to me.
No levee of the President's has occurred during my sojourn here; but I
learn that in the true spirit of democracy, the doors on these occasions
are open to every citizen without distinction of rank or costume;
consequently the assemblage at such times may be oddly compounded
enough.
As for private society in Washington, although limited, it can in no
place be conducted in a manner more agreeable, or extended to the
stranger with more unostentatious freedom. Once presented to a family,
and the house is thenceforward open to you. From twelve o'clock until
two, the inmates either visit or receive visitors: between these hours,
the question, "Are the ladies at home?" being answered in the
affirmative, you walk into the drawing-room without farther form; and,
joining the circle, or enjoying a _tete-a-tete_, as it may happen,
remain just so long as you receive or can impart amusement.
Again, after six, if you are so disposed, you sally forth to visit. If
the family you seek be at home, you find its members forming a little
group or groups, according to the number present, each after their age
and inclination; and politics, dress, or scandal are discussed: or, if
the night be serene,--and what lovely nights have I witnessed here, even
at this early season! (May)--you make a little party to the covered
stoup, or balcony, extended along the back-front of most houses; and
here a song, a romp, a waltz, or a quiet still talk, while away hours of
life, unheeded until passed, but never to be recalled without pleasure.
About eleven the guests generally depart, and by midnight the great
avenue of this city is hardly disturbed by a foot-fall; not a sound
comes on the ear except the short, fierce wrangle of packs of vagrant
curs crossing each other's hunting-ground, which they are as tenacious
of as the Indians are of their prairies.
At this hour I used often, after returning from a party, such as is
described above, to put on my morning-gown and slippers, and light my
pipe, then sallying forth, have strolled from Fuller's to the Capitol;
and climbing its bold hill, have looked down along the sleeping city,
speculating upon its possible destinies until my fancies waxed
threadbare, and then quietly returned, making a distance of nearly three
miles, without encountering an individual or hearing the sound of a
human voice.
At set balls even, the first hour of morning generally sees ample space
on the, till then, crowded floor; and the most ardent pleasure-lovers
rarely overleap the second by many minutes.
The consequence of this excellent plan is, that, although the ladies are
weak in numbers, they are always, to use an expressive sporting phrase,
ready to come again; rising, the morning after a dance, unwearied and
elastic in mind and body. I hope, for the sake of my American friends,
it will be very long before these healthful hours are changed to those
which custom has made fashionable in England; hours that soon fade the
roses even on their most genial soil, the cheeks of the fair girls of
Britain, blighting the healthful and the young, and withering the aged
and the weak.
Much of the population of Washington is migratory; and, during a long
session, samples may be found here of all classes, from every part of
the Union, whether represented or not. There are, however, generally
resident a few old Southern families, who, together with the foreign
ministers and their suites, form the nucleus of a permanent society,
where the polish of Europe is grafted upon the simple and frank courtesy
of the best of America. Were it not in violation of a rule I have
imposed upon myself as imperative, I could name families here whose
simple yet refined manners would do honour to any community, and from an
intercourse with whom the most fastidious conventionalist would return
satisfied.