_Oct. 20th, New York._--Began my second engagement here,--the weather
divine. Procured a very good hack at Tattersal's, and daily "skir the
country round." The environs of this city possess more variety of
scenery than one would suppose from a cursory glance at the country,
which appears tame and unbroken. The river views are most attractive to
me.
Rode to the race-course on Long Island, this being the period of the
"Fall Meeting," as it is termed. The assemblage thin on the first
day--Appointments of the negro jockeys more picturesque than
race-like,--ill-fitted jackets, trousers dirty, and loose, or
stocking-net pantaloons ditto, but tight, with Wellingtons over or
under, according to the taste of the rider; or shoes without stockings,
or stockings without shoes, as weight may be required or rejected. They
sit well forward on to the withers of the horses; do not seem over
steady in their saddles, but cling like monkeys, their whole
sleight-of-hand appears to consist of a dead pull; and their mode of
running, with their time for lying back or making play, seems to be
entirely governed by their masters, who, on a mile-course, they must
frequently pass in heats, and who appear ever on the alert to direct
them.
After the running, which was indifferent, went to see "Paul Pry," a
trotting-horse of Mr. M'Leod's, now in training to do a match of
eighteen miles in the hour.[5] With the exception of a few scratches on
one of his legs, he looked in slapping order; a powerful grey horse,
just sixteen hands, with a fine countenance, and appearing to be nearly,
if not quite, thorough-bred.
_Second day._--Witnessed a good race, which a little mare, called
Trifle, won in two four-mile heats. She had, on a former occasion, run
four heats, or twenty miles, over the central course at Baltimore, and
was beaten by one of her present competitors, a fine mare called Black
Maria. Trifle is very little, but powerfully put together, and
exceedingly handsome; her only drawback being a pair of mulish-looking
ears. She has uncommon speed, and is one of the steadiest and smoothest
gallopers I ever saw go over turf.
I, at the start, took a great fancy to the little pet, and backed her
even against the other two horses for a dozen of gloves with my friend
Mr. C----n. By the close of the second heat our bet had increased
ninefold,--Next morning received a box containing nine dozen of French
gloves. It will be my duty henceforth to back Trifle.
_October 29th._--The city yet crowded with strangers; every hotel full.
Find out that I am No. 1. in this enormous house; the first time I ever
could boast such an honour, and now am by no means certain that it is
worth the labour it imposes, since it leads me a dance to the third
story: however, it is an excellent room, very large, and removed from
the bustle below; the sound of the dustman-like bell, which calls the
house to meals, barely reaches my ear. I often catch myself parodying
poor Maturin's lines, which I have applied to this unpoetical grievance,
and concluded most impotently--
----"Bell echoes bell,
Meal follows meal,
Till the ear aches for the last welcome summons
That tolls an end to the day's cookery."
At this time there cannot be far short of one hundred and fifty persons
dining daily in the public room: did I desire to dine at it, however,
the hospitality of my friends I find would render this impracticable.
_November 3rd._--Dined at Harlaem, a pretty village eight miles from the
city, but daily drawing closer to it. Here a certain Mrs. Bradshaw fries
chickens in a _sauce tartarre_, to the which could pen of mine do
justice, "I guess" I know folk "our side" the water who would be
stealing across to Harlaem some fine day to dine. We had tarapins too,
of whose excellence most unfortunates in Europe, happily for their poor
wives and innocent children, are ignorant.
On our way home halted at Cato's, and discussed the comparative merits
of hail-storm and julep, demonstrating our arguments by the practical
experiments of this distinguished spirituous professor.
The day deliciously genial, and the night like a fine harvest-moon at
home. Of a verity this American autumn, or fall, as they call it, is a
most delicate season.
_Friday, 8th._--Up with the lark, and, accompanied by Captain D----n,
got on board the steamer for Philadelphia, _via_ Amboy.
The morning was clear, with a warm sun just tempered by a breeze balmy
and soft: the packet was crowded, and our passage across the harbour a
pleasure to remember. We were soon, however, to have all the happy
recollections of this journey miserably blotted out by one of the most
fearful accidents I ever beheld.
At Amboy we took the railroad; and every one was delighted to find that
the locomotives were now in operation, anticipating a quick and pleasant
ride to Bordentown. For a time all went well: various surmises were made
as to our rate; some calculated it at twenty miles in the hour; D----n
and the Belgian minister, Baron de B----r, were disputing the point,
watch in hand, when an alarm was given from the rear: our attention was
quickly arrested by loud cries to "stop the engine," coming from the
windows of every carriage in the train.
On the halt being accomplished, the carriages were deserted in a moment;
for it was discovered that one of those in the rear had been overturned
in consequence of the axle breaking,--its occupants' fate as yet
unknown.
I was soon on the spot, and what a scene was here to witness! Out of
twenty-four persons only one had escaped unhurt. One man was dead,
another dying, and five others had fractures, more or less serious; a
couple of ladies (sisters) dreadfully wounded; the children of one of
them, two little girls, with broken limbs.
Never were sufferers more patient; one of them was a surgeon, a fine
young fellow, who immediately set about doing the best his skill could
accomplish for those most desperately hurt. D----n and I volunteered as
his assistants; and with such splints as the shattered panels of the
carriage supplied, the fractured limbs were bound up.
It was a melancholy task; but this gallant fellow stuck to it until he
saw such of his patients as it was possible to remove disposed of in one
of the baggage-cars, emptied for this purpose. I had, in the course of
his task, frequently observed him pause, as though either faint, or
finding some difficulty in the act of stooping, which was constantly
required; but it was not until he had seen the last of his
fellow-sufferers disposed of to his best ability that he examined his
own condition, when it was discovered that two of his ribs were broken.
It was full three hours before the wounded could be removed from the
sandy bank on which they had been stretched; and it was an afflicting
thing to see them lying here, bloody and disfigured, exposed to the
glare of a hot sun, without the possibility of procuring them shelter;
for we were some miles from the nearest village when the accident
occurred.
The ex-president, Mr. Quincy Adams, was in the carriage immediately
attached to the one overturned: by his direction an inquest was held
upon the deceased before we departed; and, this being concluded, the
train once more moved forward, but with a character mournfully altered
since our first departure.
We found the steam-boat yet in waiting at Bordentown; and, bearing with
us those of the wounded who could proceed so far, we reached
Philadelphia at a late hour in the afternoon, with such a freight as I
trust may never again visit its wharves.
_Saturday._--Called to inquire after such of our wounded
fellow-passengers as we could trace. The lady so severely hurt
pronounced out of all danger; and her dear baby still living, with hopes
of saving it. A man with numerous fractures, who had been left behind,
report says, is relieved by death from all farther suffering.
This is the first serious accident that has occurred upon this line,
which appears to be most carefully conducted; one of the active
proprietors or more--the Messrs. Stevens, men of great prudence and
practical skill--being constantly upon the road, and personally
supervising every department connected with both boats and railway.
_Sunday, 10th._--At six A.M. departed for Baltimore, _via_ the Delaware
and Newcastle railroad: the day was cloudless, and as warm as it is in
England in June. I often, on these bright days, think of my good folk in
Kent,--clouds and fog without, and sea-coal fire within: no bad
substitute for a sun, by the way, after all; especially after one has
had a sniff of the anthracite coal used in the close stoves here, an
atmosphere which dread of freezing only could reconcile me to.