On the morning of Tuesday, August 20th, I was roused, according to a
request I had left to that effect with Captain Maxwell, to look on the
Hook Lights, the entrance to the outer bay and harbour of New York. It
was three o'clock in the morning, a fresh yet bland breeze was just
giving motion to the smooth sea, and above, the firmament showed thickly
studded with heaven's lights; but the dazzling pharos of the Hook, to my
mind, were brighter at this hour than the best twinklers on the floor of
heaven,--so welcome were they.
While waiting on deck, a couple of sky-rockets were discharged from the
storm-house by way of signal for a pilot. The effect of the sudden blaze
was fine; and the rush of each fiery messenger on its upward mission, as
it burst away from the Europe's deck, seemed a glad sound of welcome,
for it spoke of safe arrival, and consequent freedom from our present
thrall; for, however pleasant a ship may be, and however poetical our
notions about the "deep sea," after having been in the one and on the
other for five or six weeks, there are few bipeds who do not hail the
shore as a type of recovered liberty, and, however barren it may be,
right joyfully embrace it.
About 7 A.M.--for here it appears pilots do not hurry themselves--we
made out a couple of schooner-rigged boats standing right for us, which
were at first taken for pilots, but proved to be news-boats. Several
such are, as it appears, kept in commission by the New York journals,
and the struggle for early intelligence between the rivals occasions a
display of considerable adventure not unattended with risk, since these
news-boats are out in all weathers, and from a great distance often
bring to the city a ship's letters, &c. many days before she makes her
own appearance.
The news-collectors were welcomed civilly by our captain, bagged their
papers, made out a list of the passengers, and in a few moments were
again on the wing for shore, looking right into the wind, and with
smooth water and a light breeze, they drew rapidly away from the heavier
ship. I must observe that our Mercury's correctness was by no means
commensurate with his activity; for such ingenious changes did this
worthy contrive in the names of the passengers, that the mothers of some
would have failed to have discovered the arrival of their sons, except
upon instinct.
At length, after long watching, a couple of pilot-schooners were
discovered standing out from under the high land, and in due time their
boats boarded us nearly together; and hence arose a dispute as to whose
particular prey the good Europe was to be considered.
Each Pilot was voluble, and accused the other of violating the laws made
and provided in such cases for their better government: who was wrong in
this case it was difficult to say, but I very clearly made out that both
parties had cheated on former occasions, were willing to cheat in this,
and resolute to continue a like commendable practice in all others that
might offer, as far as in them lay. What arrant rogues are we in all
climes and under whatever rule, quoth I, internally, as I listened to
these wordy disputants; for, to do messieurs the pilots justice, the
matter was conducted in a manner more worthy the courts, better argued,
and in language less offensively figurative, than similar disputes at
which it has been my chance to assist between angry members of our own
_bars_.
At length the elder pilot left the deck, and returned to his attendant
yawl, in evident dudgeon and disgust; when the junior, being hailed by
his comrades in the schooner on the opposite quarter, was advised to
give up the Europe, since they had made out a second ship quite as large
in the offing.
Whether this information, or a latent sense of justice prevailed, it is
hard to say; but on the tidings our man hailed his irate senior--who was
borne away amidst deeply-muttered vows of vengeance--desired him to
return, and told him he would give up the ship. Thereon, back rowed our
ancient mariner; and after a few explanatory sentences, mutually offered
as salvos to their hurt honour, the rivals parted, to all outward
seeming as good friends as ever.
Which had right I know not, but one of them had fish, and we of the
Europe had no cause to mourn the departure of that one, since, having
gained his deck, he sent us back a basket of newly-taken porgies, and
various other fishes with unpoetical names but of marvellous sweetness,
and sumptuous was our _dejeuner_ in consequence of this unlooked-for
addition.
Henceforward, all between-decks presented a scene of bustle and
preparation; the most sluggish natures amongst us appeared now inspired,
whilst on all sides were heard good-humoured congratulations and glad
anticipations. I confess, although a very experienced voyager, I felt a
little touch of softness striving to sneak into and coil about my heart,
as the words,--home--friends, with other household sounds, fell thick
upon my hearing; for, all our passengers being American, I stood alone
here on this day of happy greeting, a stranger amongst strangers.
Let me add, that this was the last day on which I felt so during my long
sojourn in the hospitable land; and even on this I possessed buoyancy
enough of spirit to keep down these selfish reflections, and, I thank
Heaven, sympathy enough to rejoice in the gladness of my comrades.
I did not lack amusement, either after the first hurry was past; an
intelligent friend or two busied themselves pointing out to me the
various localities in detail, with whose general character Carey's
excellent atlas had already made me tolerably conversant.
The day was clear and cloudless; and when to this advantage is added a
light head wind, which compelled us to work our way inward, no harbour
could be approached under auspices more favourable, or better calculated
to afford a complete and varying view of its beauties.
Just as we had opened the Narrows, the entrance to the inner bay so
called, the wind grew so unpromising that a party of us decided to
engage the pilot vessel to take us as far as Staten Island, which they
"calculated" they could reach before the departure of the steamer for
New York.
Bidding adieu to the Europe, away we dashed in the little witch of a
pilot, a craft of some eighty tons' burthen, but, viewed from a short
distance, not looking more than half that size, so snug was her build,
as well as from the absence of every kind of hamper; her shrouds were
without ratlins, and her deck without even the protection of a
rough-tree--a nakedness I should by no means like in bad weather. The
afterpart, however, or stern-sheets, is sunk about four feet; and as the
bowsprit is a mere stump, and the sheets of both foresail and jib lead
aft, all the work may be done here when under snug sail.
The necessity, during our trip in the schooner, of working up between
the shores of Long and Staten Islands, was a chance that added to the
charm of our approach.
Standing into the Narrows, under the guns of a formidable fort, the
pretty-looking village of Staten, where quarantine is performed, first
presented itself: the smoke of the steamer assured us she had not yet
departed, and two or three tacks brought us within signaling distance,
just as she broke away from the shore: our desire was readily
understood, and, slightly changing her course, she soon after received
us in addition to her already crowded freight.
I found the upper deck of the Bolivar, the name of our steamer,
uncommonly hot, but it afforded a good place from which to view the
harbour and city as they were now rapidly unfolded: here, therefore, I
planted myself, all eyes; and certainly have rarely been better repaid
for a broiling.
As we neared the Battery, we were afforded a passing glance up the East
and North Rivers,--the great waters which give wealth to Manhattan, and
jealously clip her beauty about, in equal participation. The _coup
d'oeil_ thus taken is very imposing, and at once awakens the stranger
to a sense of the commercial importance of the _entrepot_ whose walls he
perceives shaded by such a forest of lofty masts.