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EMPIRES AND EMPERORS

OF RUSSIA, CHINA,

KOREA, AND JAPAN

EMPIRES AND EMPERORS

OF RUSSIA, CHINA,

KOREA, AND JAPAN

NOTES AND RECOLLECTIONS

BY MONSIGNOR

COUNT VAY DE VAYA AND LUSKOD

_WITH ILLUSTRATIONS_

NEW YORK

E. P. DUTTON AND COMPANY

1906

[Illustration: _Monsignor The Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod._]

PREFACE

As the name of the author of this book may not be so well known to some

English readers as it is on the Continent, I have, at his request,

undertaken to write a few lines of introduction and preface.

Count Vay de Vaya and Luskod is a member of one of the oldest and most

distinguished families of Hungary. Ever since his ancestor took part

with King Stephen in the foundation of the Hungarian Kingdom, nine

hundred years ago, the members of his family, in succeeding generations,

have been eminent in the service of that state.

The Count studied at various European universities, and was destined for

the diplomatic service, but early in life he decided to take Holy Orders

and devote himself to the work of the Church.

In this capacity he attended the Diamond Jubilee of Queen Victoria in

1897 as one of the envoys of Pope Leo XIII.

The chief enterprise of his life, however, has been to study the work of

the Roman Catholic Church in all parts of the world--her missions,

charitable institutions, schools, and organizations of all kinds.

Few men have travelled so far and into such remote quarters as the Count

Vay de Vaya has, with this object. His position has secured for him

access to the leading and most accomplished circles wherever he has

been, and his linguistic attainments, as well as his wide personal

experience of men and affairs in every quarter of the globe, give him an

almost unique opportunity of describing and commenting on the countries

which he has visited--their people, rulers, and institutions.

Seldom has any region been subjected to such complete and revolutionary

changes as have the countries which he describes in the following pages.

Russia has been compelled to relax that grip on the Far East which

seemed to be permanently tightening and closing: at home she has been

subjected to a social upheaval which at one time threatened the existing

form of government and the throne itself. And for the first time we have

witnessed the triumph of an Asiatic race over one of the leading Powers

of Europe.

The substance of this volume was written in 1902 and the following year,

before any of these events had occurred, or were dreamed of, and this

may cause some of the details of the record to be a little out of date

historically; but the change, far from diminishing, has, on the whole,

probably increased its value to all thoughtful readers.

A few passages of comment and forecast have been added since the

occurrence of the war, but in the main the narrative remains as it was

originally written.

Japan, Korea, Manchuria, and the Siberian Railway have been described

over and over again, both during and since the war, but descriptions of

them on the eve of the outbreak may come with some freshness and enable

readers to compare what was yesterday with what is today.

And what has been changed in the "Unchanging East" bears but a very

small proportion to what remains the same in spite of wars and

revolutions.

I hope, therefore, that these first impressions of countries which, in

name at any rate, are far more familiar to the British public than they

were four or five years ago, may prove of great interest to many readers

in England and America.

The chapters on _The Tsar of all the Russias_, _The Reception at the

Summer Palace_, _The Audience of the Emperor of Korea_, and _The Mikado

and the Empress_, appeared in "Pearson's Magazine," and thanks are due

to the Editor for kind permission to reprint them. The chapters on

_Manchuria under Russian Rule_ first appeared in the "Revue des deux

Mondes," and those on _Japan and China in the Twentieth Century_ in the

"Deutsche Rundschau," but none of these have been translated into

English before. The whole has been carefully revised, and considerable

additions have been made.

JOHN MURRAY.

CONTENTS

INTRODUCTION

General situation--Eve of the war--Political outlook

in Russia--Characteristics of the two capitals--Siberia

and Siberians--Conquest of Manchuria--Position of China

and the Powers--Korea's difficulties--Racial tendencies _Page_ xvii

I

THE TSAR AND TSARINA AT THEIR HOME OF PETERHOF

The Baltic station of St. Petersburg--The Imperial "Special"

--Through the suburbs of the capital--Peterhof--Sentries

and passwords--The Imperial Family's favourite home--

Alexandrovsky--A homely interior--The Empress and her tastes

--Mother and wife--H.M. Nicholas II--A conversation on

different topics 1

II

TO THE FAR EAST BY THE TRANS-SIBERIAN RAILWAY

Main characteristics--The Emperor's kind hospitality--Prince

Chilkoff, Minister of Communications--Last days at

St. Petersburg--The metropolis of incoherence--Typical

Russian departure--On the way to Moscow--The agricultural

districts--A short visit to Pienza--Conversations on board

the Trans-Siberian express--Political and economical

appreciations--Crossing the Volga--In the land of the Baskirs

--The Ural range--Western Siberia--The colonization of the

uninhabited regions--Growing townships--Central Siberia--

Unlimited pastures and endless forests--The Altai range--

Irkutsk--The Siberian Paris--Arrival--Luggage difficulties

--Civility and kindness--The luxuries of the Hotel du

Metropole--Plush and gold, but no air and no water--A gloomy

evening and a bright morning--The life and the lights of

the city--Lake Baikal--The islands of dwarfs and fairies--

The large fairy coat--Myssowa a new mining centre--Petrovsk,

the town of inferno--Trans-Baikalia--Buriats and their

pilgrimages to Tibet--The Amur region--On the frontier of

Manchuria 16

III

MANCHURIA UNDER RUSSIAN RULE

The Manchurian frontier--Russian soldiers and officials--

Public safety--Trains provided with military escort--The

Eastern Chinese Railway Company--The system of construction

--On the borders of the desert of Gobi--The travel by goods

trains--My special car my home--The railway stations: what

they looked like--Geographical beauty and ethnological features

--Tsi-tsi-kar, the capital of Northern Manchuria--Customs and

habits--Primitive modes of living--Kharbin (Harbin), the

junction of the eastern Asiatic railway lines--The news of

the bridge by Liaoyang carried away by floods--The centre of

mobilization--Harbin's part in case of war--Pleasant surprises

--At last a new start--Central Manchuria--The mineral wealth

of this region--Kirin, a picturesque city--Fine scenery--

A dull dawn--Station and station-master--The hunt for a

vehicle--A typical Chinese cart--The horrors of a night's

journey--Manchurian highroads--Exchanging the cart with a

mule--A beautiful bridge--_How-di_ and _Poo-how_--The

fantastic aspect of the scenery--The comforts of little Li-Hu

--In a marauders' inn--Lugubrious den and its keepers--In

midst of Chunchuses--The bargain with Li-Hu for his charge--

Chinese diplomacy and Western art save my purse--Farewell

from my companions--A fine daybreak, and the sun throws a

veil of obligation over the misery of the night 63

IV

THE CAPITAL OF MANCHURIA

First view of Mukden--The streets, shops, and inhabitants--

Public buildings--The Palace--The Russian occupation--

Friendliness of Russians and Manchus--Administrative

divisions of Manchuria--Official reception by the Governor--

A luncheon party--Manchus and Hungarians--Visit to the

Imperial Tombs--A magnificent arch--The Great Ancestor--

Outbreak of cholera--Dinner with the Russian Resident--

Russian hospitality--Return journey to the station--

An adventurous drive--Across country--Chunchuses--Safe

arrival at the station 88

V

PORT ARTHUR, DALNY, NIU-CHWANG, TIEN-TSIN

Chinese agriculture--Friendliness between Russians and

Chinese--Rebuilding a bridge at Liaoyang--Difficulties of

crossing--Arrival at Port Arthur--The staff at Port Arthur--

Essentially a military port--Dalny--Niu-chwang--Official

journal description--Trade--Niu-chwang a real Chinese town--

Description--Future of Niu-chwang--The Catholic Mission--

Official transfer of the railway to the Chinese

Governor-General of Manchuria--The famous Chinese wall--

Hankan-chang--Dinner with the English Commander--

Li Hung-Chang--His weakness for speculation--Taku--

Tien-tsin--The home of the Progressive Party--The Boxer

rising, 1900--Drawing near Pekin--Wonderful sunset--First

Impressions 119

VI

PEKIN

I: Gloomy arrival--The first disappointment--Incoherent

impressions of the following day--Yamen of the Legation

--How the city appeared on my round of exploration.

II: Appreciations after the first month's stay--

Contradictions of the Yellow metropolis--Plan and outline

--Light and shadow.

III: Sights of Pekin--Chinese, Tartar, Imperial, Purple,

Inner, and Sacred cities--Winter and Summer Palaces--

Neighbourhood and western hills--Pagodas--Temples--

Shrines--Bell and Drum Towers--Chinese city--Commercial

life and shops--Pei-tang--International quarter of

Legations 141

VII

THE DOWAGER EMPRESS AND THE EMPEROR OF CHINA AT THE SUMMER PALACE

Pekin in the early morning--En route to the Summer Palace

--Varied modes of locomotion--On the highway--Prince Ching,

Minister of Foreign Affairs--The pageant of the Dragon--The

Imperial residence--Princes and mandarins--The splendour of

the Court--Picturesque uniforms and artistic decorations--Her

Majesty the Empress Regent--A striking personality--The

Manchu fashions--Reception of the diplomatic body--The doyen's

complimentary speech, and the Regent's sarcastic answer--The

Emperor--The wonderland of the state banquet of hundred

dainties--Supper at the Pei-tang Orphanage 175

VIII

KOREA OF BYGONE DAYS AND ON THE EVE OF THE WAR

Glimpses of the past and present--Geographical features--

Topography--Soil--Mineral Wealth--Mountains and valleys--

Rivers and bays--Climate and natural advantages--The flora

and fauna--Minerals--Ethnological--The Korean race: Its

origin--Physical and moral characteristics--The ancient

Korea--Early myth of the land--First history--Foundation

of the present dynasty--Chinese policy--Internal troubles--

Home and foreign affairs--The administration of the country

--The defence--Justice--Torture--The criminal court--Public

education--Examination system--Language--The present dynasty

--The Emperor--Tai-Wen-Kun--The Royal Prince--Social and

public existence--Daily life--The role of men and women--

Korean children--Marriage--General occupations--Agriculture

--Trades--Domestic routine--Spinning--Weaving--Sewing--

Ironing--Cooking--Recreations--Music--Theatricals--Singing

--National dances--Old customs--Dwellings--Food--Dress--

Games--Sports--The awakening of Korea--International

treaties--Commerce and shipping--Mining concessions--

Means of locomotion--Pedlars' Guild--Railways--Electric

tramways--Changes in the last quarter of a century--Korea's

open ports--Foreign influences--Antagonistic movements--

Apathy and fermentation--Puzzles and problems of the

present--Korea's future 189

IX

SEOUL, THE CAPITAL OF KOREA

Late arrival--Moonlight impressions--General effects--

A fairy city--The dawn--Military display--The Korean sons

of Mars--My first walk through the town--Street life--Shops

and booths--A battle-royal--The Emperor's commemoration

hall--The old palace yard--Korean vehicles--Servants and

liveries--A noble wedding--Quaint customs--The dowry--

Korean T. Atkins--Native school--Master and pupils--

The R.C. Mission--The new cathedral--Sunset--Barracks--

Toy hussars--Canine street police--Faithful guardians--

Glorious evening--Princely funeral--The catafalques and

cortege--_Danse macabre_--Some reflections 240

X

THE EMPEROR OF KOREA AT THE NEW PALACE

The capital in a state of revolution--Imperial invitation

--My sedan-chairs--The little suite of _Kisos_ and _Mapus_

--The New Palace--An incoherent _tout ensemble_--Court

dignitaries--Elaborate uniforms--The Imperial apartments--

Court etiquette--The Emperor--A thousand questions--

The Crown Prince--State robes--The chief eunuch--Farewell--

Y.-Yung-Yk the favourite 263

XI

TOKIO

First surprises--The Japanese capital on a dreary winter

morning--General aspect of the city--Artistic disappointments

--Sights of Yeddo--The famous Shogun graves--"Tories" and

pagodas--Natural beauties of the capital--Artistic qualities

--The Katsura-no-Rikyu Palace--The school of the aesthetics

--The world seen from the Tsuki-mi-dai--Actual characteristics

--Numbers and activity--Railways--Shipping--Electric

companies--Telegraphs and telephones--Modern institutions--

Schools--University--Public library--Printing offices--

Students and their work--Brain power and technical skill--

Commercial museum--The capital at work 275

XII

THE EMPEROR AND EMPRESS OF JAPAN AT THE YEDDO PALACE

Tokio buried in snow--Black and white effects--The Imperial

grounds--Avenues of cryptomerea--The Yeddo Palace--The home

of the Mikado--Disappointments--Modern transformations--

Western comfort and Japanese art--Private apartments--

The Mikado--His Majesty's appearance--A long conversation--

The Empress--A sincere interest in European topics--

Education and charitable work--The Japanese woman--Her sense

of duty--The virtue of self-abnegation--The great halls--

A Lilliputian garden--National taste and aesthetics 300

XIII

JAPAN AND CHINA ON THE THRESHOLD OF THE TWENTIETH CENTURY

I: JAPAN. The Yellow Peril--Power of assimilation

in discipline--Bushido--Dr. Nitobe's description of its

origin: its great principles, justice, courage and honour--

Hara-kiri--Kataki-ushi--The conventional smile--Sanctity of

the Mikado--Reverence for the sword--National influence of

Bushido--The Soul of the Nation--Christianity and Shintoism

--Western veneer.

II: CHINA. Contrast to Japan--The Chinese Coolie--

Resourcefulness--Feeling against Chinese labour--Trustworthy

traders--Guilds and clubs--Music--Culture--Art--

Chan-chi-tung--His work and writings--Chinese views of

Western ideas--Government and public opinion--China and

European politics--Dissimilarity of Chinese and Japanese--

Europe and the yellow races--Transformation in Japan--

Chinese national inclinations--The progressive party--

Yuan-chi-kai--Fashions and home-life--Chinese Christians--

Education--The Chinaman's ideal--Ignorance and prejudice 313

XIV

CONCLUSION

After the war--Peace negotiations of Portsmouth--

M. de Witte and Komura--National feelings--Japanese

diplomatic triumph 381

INDEX 391

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

MONSIGNOR THE COUNT VAY DE VAYA AND LUSKOD _Frontispiece_

TO FACE PAGE

LE PALAIS ANGLAIS 4

H.I.M. THE EMPRESS OF RUSSIA 6

H.I.M. NICHOLAS II, EMPEROR OF RUSSIA 12

MARSANKA 28

SAMARA 30

ON THE VOLGA 32

SIBERIAN HOME 34

A SIBERIAN TOWN 36

RAILWAY CHURCH SERVICE 38

M. DE PLEHVE 40

IRKUTSK 48

LAKE BAIKAL 52

THE STATION OF MANCHURY 60

TSI-TSI-KAR 68

KHARBIN 70

A STREET IN KHARBIN 76

FROM MUKDEN FLATS ON TO THE TOWN 80

THE ENTRANCE TO THE IMPERIAL TOMBS 104

GENERAL KUROPATKIN 124

THE LEGATION QUARTER 152

ENTRANCE TO THE FORBIDDEN CITY 158

TRIUMPHAL ARCH 162

THE TEMPLE OF HEAVEN 172

THE EMPRESS DOWAGER OF CHINA 184

THE SUMMER PALACE 188

SEOUL 240

THE EMPEROR'S THRONE IN THE OLD PALACE 248

THE IMPERIAL LIBRARY IN SEOUL 252

THE THRONE ROOM 268

THE EMPEROR OF KOREA 270

THE STATE EXAMINATION HALL AT PEKIN 292

SHRINES AT NIKKO 296

DELIGHTFUL SCENERY 298

STREET IN JAPAN 300

THE TOKAIDO 304

A TYPICAL NIPPON BUILDING 312

MARSHAL OYAMA 322

ON THE YANG-TZE-KIANG 340

IN THE FLOWERY LAND 344

COUNT WITTE 384

INTRODUCTION

During my prolonged stay in the Far East, I promised to send home notes

whenever I came across anything interesting, or whenever I had time to

do so. This is how it happened that the story of my visits to the

different cities of interest, of receptions graciously granted by the

various Emperors of Eastern Asia, and the chief impressions received

when crossing their empires, came to be jotted down.

Naturally in these pages, written often under considerable pressure and

in spare moments, I was at the mercy of circumstances, and could not

dwell on all the points at such length as I should have liked to do. In

short, in these narratives, destined to be confided to couriers and post

offices, I was compelled to leave out much that might have been more

sensational.

Some of the papers have already appeared in periodicals, and the

appreciation that has kindly been shown to them, and the favourable

criticism they have received, have been due to the sincerity and the

absolute lack of pretension with which I have tried to treat the

different subjects.

My intention was simply to note what was striking at the moment and what

impressed me most vividly. I have tried to be as objective as possible,

and to deal with things as they are, not as I could have wished to find

them. Even in the most attractive books that have dealt with these

far-off countries, there has sometimes been a tendency to adopt the tone

of a mentor and to judge everything from a superior standpoint, as if

the complete difference between those remote lands and peoples and our

own had been forgotten, and as if the Westerner wished to ignore a

civilization which, though different from, is not less serious than his

own; in short, as though this mysterious Far East, with its almost

incomprehensible masses, did not possess anything at all of a higher

nature and lacked a mind altogether.

Certainly it is difficult, almost impossible, for an alien to perceive

their inner qualities and mental powers; at the same time we shall have

opportunities in our everyday lives of noting explanatory

manifestations. It is from living in the same atmosphere and from

continual intercourse with all classes, high and low, that it will be

given us to understand a little of what is called the soul of a land and

its inhabitants.

Thus, while describing events in their simplicity, we may succeed in

giving something of the local atmosphere too. This is the reason why we

always read with pleasure memoirs of past generations or correspondences

from far-away countries or of days gone by; and why all the best

descriptions in books dealing with the Far East are those unassuming and

faded letters from merchants or missionaries; and why the narrative of

Marco Polo, with all its _naivete_, will remain for all ages a standard

work.

Strange adventures, depicted in brilliant hues and by an exaggerated

imagination, seldom help our general knowledge. Instead of adding to

what we see and encumbering real facts with more or less imaginary

occurrences, it is more useful to omit unnecessary details, just as the

important thing in painting a landscape is to know what to leave out, so

as to make the general character of the scenery clearer. This it is that

constitutes the difference between the very best photograph or

chromo-lithograph and a rough artistic study or water-colour sketch. In

short, one ought to strive to treat this land as its painters do their

sketches, always bearing in mind their design of giving in a masterly

manner general impressions more than worthless details, so as to get

hold of something more than can be seen--something of abstract value in

the life they are endeavouring to render.

It was life with its everyday occupations that brought me into contact

with all social phases, and rendered my journey and stay of interest,

and made it possible for me to see the country and people in a stronger

light than if I had been an ordinary traveller. I was investigating the

civilizing, charitable, and spiritual work carried on by the Catholic

Church under different conditions, amongst various races. These matters

I have dealt with in another volume; but even the subjects that I

treated of in those unassuming pages may have acquired a certain local

colour, as having been seen by one who had interests and ties with the

places he wrote from, and the people he lived amongst.

During the year I passed in the countries bordering on the Yellow Sea, I

had an opportunity of making the acquaintance of the greater number of

those eminent persons whose names have lately been so often in the

mouths of all the world. It was most interesting to listen to them and

to hear their views. Though there may have been great diversity in their

opinions, they were none the less instructive for that.

My departure from St. Petersburg presented the first glimpse into

Orientalism. The splendour of the Imperial City, and the patriarchal

condition of the lower classes, gave it a different character from the

usual European capitals, and the network of interests in the metropolis

differs even more. I had to stay rather longer than I had expected, and

this prolongation gave me the best chance of making the amplest

preparations, and acquiring the necessary preliminary knowledge for my

journey across the empire.

Moreover, since as an ecclesiastic I had to obtain special permission

even to get to Russia, it was therefore natural that I should have

expected to find the greatest difficulties and complications thrown in

the way of the accomplishment of my future journey.

Thanks to the kindness of the Tsar himself, however, all possible

obstacles were smoothed over. He was personally acquainted with the

journey that awaited me, but with this difference, that he made it

before the railway was completed, and travelled by post. It was

interesting to listen to the narrative of the sovereign, giving his

impressions of the remotest portions of his empire, where he could not

but come into contact with all classes of his subjects, and where he was

obliged to share the vicissitudes of "inflexible circumstance," as we so

often read in official _ukases_.

His Majesty evidently took the liveliest interest in everything he saw,

and gave charming accounts of his personal experiences. As in all royal

tours, everything was naturally shown to him in as favourable a light as

possible, and yet, apparently, the shadows had not altogether escaped

his observation. Being heir to all this enormous territory, he probably

traversed it full of hope of being able one day to ameliorate the

general condition of his country, and to prove a true and loving "Little

Father" to his folk. It is indeed a melancholy reflection that those who

are generally supposed to be blindly obeyed, to have all their wishes

accomplished, and whose will is imagined to be absolutely autocratic,

are those who are most tied by the _force majeur_.

The little hermitage of Alexandrovsky, nestling in pine woods, with its

home-like character, stands, like an oasis, in the midst of Peterhof,

that town of palaces and splendour. The simplicity of the Imperial

family is in striking contrast with the luxury of the so-called Court

circle. All that one hears of the ostentation and extravagance of

Russian Court life entirely disappears when one comes to know the home

of the Tsar and Tsaritsa.

Elsewhere there is undoubtedly much pomp and glitter, for the luxury and

lavishness of Russian officialism is too well known to need mention

here. Indeed, there is hardly a country where things are done more

elaborately, and the Exchequer seems to be inexhaustible. If the

administration leaves much to be desired and cannot be criticized too

severely, we must allow that the officials themselves are the most

accomplished men we could wish to know. Whether an official be a

minister of State, with all the polish of the old regime of the

eighteenth century, or a simple _tchinovnik_, a tram conductor or a

railway guard, it is equally pleasant to have dealings with him.

A stay of a few weeks in St. Petersburg, filled with receptions at the

residences of the various members of the Imperial family, calls at the

Embassies, official visits, sight-seeing, and business of all sorts,

certainly gives one ample opportunity to gain a better insight into

local matters than the study of whole volumes.

It was on the eve of the war that I was there. The atmosphere was full

of gunpowder, and yet nobody seemed to believe that such a thing could

happen; or, even if it really came to pass, that it could have greater

consequences than the annihilation of that far-away island folk, of whom

the Russian world seemed to know very little. For just as they are so

well informed and interested in Western affairs, that one might fancy

oneself in a suburb of Paris, so they are supremely indifferent to, and

have very hazy ideas of what they call the "Barbarous East."

Such was public opinion and such the tone adopted by the newspapers. M.

de Witte was the only man who seemed to be of another conviction. He was

just then on his way back from Port Arthur and Dalny. He had been on

the spot and realized the situation. He had planned and built Dalny with

a view to having a great commercial stronghold to command the Far East,

in opposition to his neighbour, Kuropatkin, who commanded the

fortifications of Port Arthur. He believed that the best foundation for

Russia's supremacy lay in industrial development; Kuropatkin trusted in

the sword. Witte was dismissed--the rest we know.

Moscow, my next stoppage, revealed another side of the empire. The holy

Moscow, the Mother of Cities, exhibited other features of interest

illustrative of the mystical Slavonic soul. The Kremlin, with its gilt

cupolas, is not only a monument unique of its kind, but also the

expression of a nation's sentiment.

The history of the past, the aspirations of the future, are equally

manifested. The glory of arms, of arts, of thought, is expressed in this

Valhalla. It is the embodiment of the word "Muscovite," which means all

that is characteristic of Russia. Light and shadow, brightness and

gloom, virtues and vices, are equally perceptible in this marvellous

city, and what is not visible is even more impressive.

All the transcendental tendencies, the shadowy mysticism, peculiar to

this strange population, all that is abstract, finds new and unexpected

expression within these venerable walls. Patriotism and anarchy, faith

and superstition, walk side by side. Churches, shrines, and ikons are

met at every corner, and before them all, large groups are on their

knees, prostrated in devotion. In this same city the most terrible

crimes are committed, and the same populace that seemed so repentant and

contrite, perpetrates the most cruel and bloody outrages.

In fact, Moscow is an inexhaustible field of study, and not only for

historical research, but also for a more certain knowledge of this

paradoxical race, full as it is of inexplicable contrasts and incessant

surprises.

Siberia was another mine of contrasts and surprises, and the longer I

was there the more I began to comprehend the vast possibilities of this

formidable stretch of country. It is a continent in itself, with all the

natural advantages to enable it to become rich and prosperous. Her

future development has the same chance as that of Canada, and her wealth

is even larger. To say nothing of Siberia's inexhaustible mines, the

land is better watered, and the timber-forests even more extensive.

The population is still slumbering in its cradle. The life they lead is

archaic in the extreme. They dwell mostly in tents, lead a nomadic life,

and provide their own clothing and food themselves.

They are uneducated, but not unintelligent. In fact, after having

visited different camps, I was most struck with their open expression

and self-reliance. But it must not be forgotten that, in

contradistinction to the Slavs of Russia proper, the various tribes of

the Ural-Altai race have never been serfs. They have always led a

wandering, independent existence under their Hetmans.

The Baskirs and the Kirghiz are the most interesting, and are the finest

specimens of Mid-Asiatic types. The Kalmuks and Ostiaks represent a more

Mongolian stock. The farther we go to the East the more they resemble

the Yellow race, and the Buriats and Tunguses of Trans-Baikalia are

hardly to be distinguished from the Chinese.

What tremendous force is dormant in this world of Tartars! and what a

shock their awakening will cause one day!

Towns like Tomsk, Omsk, Tobolsk, and particularly Irkutsk, show us the

country from another side. Commercial enterprises, trade, and general

progress, have taken root. They are so-called centres of civilization,

but I fear that they might more fitly be called places of exploitation.

Certainly these growing towns are not wanting in praiseworthy attempts

at culture, and I was especially struck by the philanthropic and

charitable institutions. Unfortunately, the moral tone of this

agglomerate population is deplorable, and money is spent in a reckless

way.

Men, banished from their homes to such distant regions, allow themselves

to be dragged down and brought to contempt, instead of trying to

dominate the mass by superior character.

Manchuria was entirely under Russian rule in those days. The famous

railway was in the hands of the Cossacks, although it ostensibly bore

the name of the "Eastern Chinese Line," and barracks for Muscovite

soldiers were dotted all over the country. The larger towns had

quartered on them Russian officials under various designations, such as

consuls, railway directors, bank managers, and so forth. Their influence

and domination were uncontested, although apparently they were on the

best of terms with the local officials. The Russo-Chinese Bank had

branches everywhere, and evidently the least services rendered them were

amply recompensed. This Asiatic method of colonization was not wanting

in interest to the observer. Its demoralizing effect was very sad, and

could not fail to bring retribution later on. For after all, political

life, like that of individuals, has a moral code, by which any criminal

actions are bound to find their punishment.

After crossing the Great Wall and staying in China proper, I still found

the preponderating Muscovite influence. This was especially the case in

Pekin, where the success of M. Lessar, Resident Minister, and M.

Pocadiloff, Manager of the Russian Bank, was at its zenith. The

influence of St. Petersburg, which had succeeded in gaining over Li

Hung-Chang, was still in full swing, and Yung Lu was a not less useful

partisan. He was the man of the moment, and knew how to secure, even to

a greater extent than his predecessor, the sympathy and favour of the

Empress Dowager.

The Court had only just returned from their flight. They had scarcely

settled down again in that marvellous Palace which they had expected

never to revisit. In fact, who could ever have imagined, after all the

outrages against Christian Powers, that those Powers themselves should

have brought back again the very people against whom they had fought

only a few months before?

The diplomatic talent of the Dowager Empress must incontestably be of a

high order. She was herself a foreigner--a simple Manchu girl. No less

remarkable than her achievement in raising herself step by step to the

highest pinnacle of power is the manner in which she maintains her

position. The way in which she deals with her own provinces, and plays

them off one against the other, is most skilful. It will therefore not

be astonishing if she sometimes uses the same methods in foreign

difficulties.

The victory of the Western Powers was complete, and yet, with the

exception of Russia, they did not reap any apparent advantage from it.

They could come to no agreement among themselves as to the partition of

the spoil, and the disappointment of Japan at seeing the territory she

had formerly conquered pass into the hands of her rivals, was only too

justly founded.

The situation was most interesting, the general tension being extreme.

At the same time it was just this atmosphere of excitement which

rendered my stay so instructive and intercourse with leading men of such

great interest. Every one gained in importance at this critical moment.

Men like Prince Ching, the Foreign Minister of China and a near relative

of the Emperor; his interpreter, Mr. Lee, who has such thorough

knowledge of European countries; Yan-Tsi-Kai, who represents the Chinese

military spirit and believes in introducing Western methods; and

Chang-Tsi-Tung, the great sage and strict disciple of Confucius--are

fine specimens of the children of this vast and unknown empire.

After all, among so many interesting points in the Far East, the most

interesting is man. Situations may change, war and peace, power and

decadence, follow each other at intervals, but the essential

characteristics of this population will remain in their main tendencies

more or less the same as long as the race endures. The expressions of

national sentiment that surround us, great and small, whether

apparently superficial or really striking, are human documents which

must be considered with earnestness and attention, for after all it is

they, more than political treatises, diplomatic achievements, or

victories of armies, which will direct the natural tendencies and the

relentless march of progress in and development of nations in the

future. It is when observing, in all its phases, the life that surrounds

us, that we can gain an approximate idea of the possibilities of the Far

East.

I arrived in the Land of the Morning Calm, which might more suitably be

called the Land of Continual Upheaval, when a revolution was in

progress. Y-yung-Ik, Minister of Finance, was being attacked by those

who sympathized with Japan. The capital was divided into two camps.

Skirmishes took place in the open street. Everybody was excited, and

anarchy reigned supreme.

Y-yung-Ik, whose views were favoured at the Palace, and who, on the

occasion of the last riots, had saved the Emperor's life, carrying him

on his back to the Russian Legation, where he remained for over a year,

was in concealment in the Palace, and the mob was raging vociferously

before the Imperial abode. It was a typical situation, throwing a strong

light on the condition of the country.

The nation was divided into two factions. There were pro-Russians and

pro-Japanese, but no pro-Koreans. This fine country, instead of

constituting a guarantee of the peace of the Far East, was a prey to

rivalry. Once suzerain of China, then under Japanese influence, during

my stay she seemed to be at the mercy of the Slav.

It seemed to be the last flicker of the candle of Russian preponderance

in the Far East. Their hegemony was not only apparent at Court and in

the Ministries, but even began to be established all over the country.

As in Manchuria, so in Korea, Russian soldiers and sailors, who were

billeted on the country for various reasons, made themselves quite at

home.

Between the Russians and Koreans there did not appear to be the same

difference which separates Europeans from Orientals. The uncultured

children of the Steppes amalgamated naturally with the native

population. It was striking, particularly in Manchuria, to notice how

the so-called conquerors began to be conquered in their turn by the land

they occupied, which, indeed, in the long run, has always absorbed those

who dreamed of dominating her, whether Mongol, Tartar, or Manchu.

Probably what happened to the descendants of the famous Genghis Khan

would have happened to the victorious Muscovite.

Arms cannot solve problems of a higher order. In spite of their

superiority of military equipment, the new invaders of the Eastern

Asiatic continent, the new masters of Manchuria, did not seem to be

conscious of their moral duty towards their lately acquired subjects.

Instead of attempting to raise the population among whom they had

settled, to a higher degree of civilization, and to inculcate nobler

ideals, they were on the point of slipping down to the level of the

so-called conquered barbarians.

The life and the mode of thought of the camps were low, and the moral

dangers of every kind that surrounded the soldiers and officials were

too great for people who, in many cases, had only a veneer of culture

themselves and very little practical experience of civilizing and

ennobling work, to struggle against.

After all, a state has only the right to conquer when, instead of

oppressing, they strengthen and educate those weaker and more primitive

than themselves. Conquest can only bear ripe fruit when it is for the

general welfare.

Nations, like individuals, have their moral codes, and vocations.

Nemesis must always overtake evil of every kind, and to the virtuous

alone is granted the palm of final victory.

EMPIRES AND EMPERORS

I

THE TSAR AND TSARINA AT THEIR HOME OF PETERHOF

It is half-past nine in the morning, as I start on my journey to

Peterhof, having been honoured by the Tsar with an invitation thither.

It is yet cold and chilly. The great metropolis is covered with a veil

of fog. One would imagine that winter had already begun, and it is

difficult to realize that according to the calendar it is the month of

August. The street leading to the Baltic station, St. Petersburg, is

still half deserted.

There Switzers begin to sweep the doorways, and detachments of soldiers

hurry to take up their different posts. There are a few milk-carts that

rattle to and fro, and one or two private vehicles occupied by people in

full dress and uniforms covered with decorations, throwing into sharp

contrast the dreary surroundings of the humble suburb. In fact,

contrasts are the most striking feature of the capital of the vast

Russian Empire--contrasts in light and shadow, splendour and humility,

and I dare say contrasts in everything that is characteristic of the

West and the East.

The railway station, where I arrive at last, is certainly one of the

most interesting illustrations of what I have just pointed out--the very

link and meeting-place of the West with the East. It is crowded with

people: their countenances are so different, their dress so picturesque,

their behaviour so unconventional, yet so characteristic, that I forget

that I am on a railway platform, and imagine myself amidst the

picturesqueness of a great caravanserai.

Perfect order is kept. The train is already at the platform, ready to

start, and I am shown without delay into my compartment. There are a

great many officials, all of them in striking uniforms. In fact, there

are nearly as many railway employes as travellers, and together they

form incoherent groups of Oriental brightness.

The train winds through colourless and uninteresting suburbs for some

time. Here and there we have a glimpse of the white Neva, arched by

beautiful bridges and skirted with magnificent palaces. We pass near

many small villages full of summer-houses, all built of wood. Each house

is painted in different colours, and has its own pretty garden. There

are some red, some green, and some blue, making a polychromatic mosaic

on the green fields. They are all summer residences of the official or

semi-official world, who are obliged to pass the summer near town.

Indeed, the great charm of St. Petersburg consists in its neighbourhood.

These attractive retreats, or, as they are called, _Datshas_, are on the

riverside or on the seashore, or hidden in a quiet neighbourhood like

the magnificent Imperial residences, Tsarskoe Selo, Pavlovsk, and

Gatschina.

But among them all, Peterhof is the most famous--the Versailles of the

North. I think Peterhof undoubtedly deserves the first place. There is

not only splendour, but there is real beauty too. Art and nature

contribute to make it one of the loveliest spots on earth. There is, in

fact, only one royal residence, I think, that can compare with it, and

that is the castle of Pena on the high peaks overlooking the ocean near

Lisbon.

To get an idea of Peterhof we must imagine a luxuriant forest

overshadowing the blue waters of the Baltic. Buried in the woods are

summer-houses, gardens, fountains, Greek temples, and triumphal arches.

The palace itself stands on a hill that has been cut into

terraces--terraces that are surrounded by balustrades and ornamented by

statues and flower-vases. Then as a centre there is a magnificent

cascade looking like a crystal staircase leading up to a golden palace;

it spreads out its waters into a silver carpet covering the pathway and

flowing in a broad canal to the sea, bordered by an avenue of rippling

fountains.

And when we get tired of the golden palace, of its silver carpet and its

dazzling brightness, we return to some of the smaller residences, of

which there are many scattered about in the grounds. Some are little

French chateaux, some others imitate Dutch farms or Roman villas. They

are all different in style and taste, but they are all charming, and

contain priceless collections of art. Each has interesting annals; each

has some historical connexion and a past of romantic or tragic memory.

Wars have been declared, treaties ratified, peace re-established in its

lofty halls and gilded salons, every one the scene of important events.

Peter the Great's many schemes were born within these walls; and from

these groves Catharine II ruled with her iron sceptre.

[Illustration: LE PALAIS ANGLAIS "The great charm of Petersburg is its

neighbourhood" To face page 4]

The present Tsar selected for his home one of the smaller chateaux,

called Alexandrovsky.

Alexandrovsky is indeed a modest house. It has no lofty cupolas, no

magnificent gates, no stately _cour d'honneur_. It is a simple villa

such as is seen in the neighbourhood of well-to-do commercial towns. It

might be somewhere near Birmingham or Queenstown. It is built of bright

red bricks, has some friendly bow windows, and is ornamented by some

little turrets.

Its charm consists in its homeliness. Its beauty is its situation.

It stands in the centre of a green lawn on the border of the sea. It is

surrounded by a little flower-garden, where, instead of magnificent

fountains and marble statues, there are masses of bloom full of colour

and scent; borders of lilies, hollyhocks, poppies, and sweet peas form a

natural fence of many hues against the sombre background of the wood. It

is a garden which you can realize is tended with affection.

The Empress herself takes an interest in it, and, surrounded by her

daughters, passes in this charming retreat many quiet hours of the long

summer afternoons. Undoubtedly, this must remind her of lovely

Wolfsgarten, hidden in the Hessian forests, where she passed the merry

days of her childhood, where she returns so faithfully nearly every

year, and where she is so beloved by all the villagers.

Her Majesty is tall, has a fine presence, and is extremely graceful in

all her movements. She is refined in the highest degree and very

artistic in her disposition. Her leisure hours are mainly occupied in

drawing, painting, and music. She is an ardent supporter of all the

artistic societies in the capital, and gives a great impetus to literary

training in all the different schools which are under her patronage.

There are a large number of these schools in St. Petersburg, and she

pays personal visits to them frequently.

Her greatest interest, however, is concentrated in her children, and she

finds her chief happiness in her own home. Her domestic virtues are

those which make her respected by the whole nation. Coming as she did

from a far-away country, and being a foreigner, it must have been no

easy matter to be at once understood. For refined and retiring natures

it is specially difficult to become at once popular. It is only in time,

and by having opportunities to show deeper qualities, that sympathy can

be awakened. By kind actions, by benevolence towards those she came in

contact with, and by unbounded charity, the love of the nation was

secured. But how she won the hearts of all was by being an ideal mother.

[Illustration: _Copyright, Nops Ltd._ H.I.M. THE EMPRESS OF RUSSIA To

face page 6]

The Empress is a devoted mother. She attends to her children, as much as

possible, personally, and with the greatest care supervises the

education of her four little daughters.

The nurseries are established entirely on the English system. There is

great simplicity in the furniture, but plenty of fresh air and a good

water supply.

The nursery governess is an English lady, and the rules of this little

world are strictly observed and precisely carried out, Her Majesty

herself having been brought up, as a grandchild of Queen Victoria, on

the same principles. Method and punctuality are strictly observed, and

the little Princesses must attend to their duties most scrupulously;

lessons, recreation, exercises --everything is timed and planned in

advance. There is a great deal to be done in the twenty-four hours,

lessons and all sorts of small duties of many kinds.

The simplicity of everything might serve as a model to many households.

The food they partake of is of the plainest kind, healthy, but nothing

elaborate, consisting mainly of porridge, bread and butter, milk and

vegetables, and a little meat or fish. So it is with their attire;

generally they are dressed in scrupulously neat white cotton, but it is

devoid of all ornament. They pass many hours of the day on the seashore,

and as they are running about, laughing, building castles in the sand,

or clasping their beloved mother round the neck, they make a perfect

picture of happiness.

I reach Peterhof at half-past ten by the special train which daily

conveys the Tsar's guests and visitors. Officials, Court dignitaries,

aides-de-camp, and others of those who are on duty, have hurried to the

large platform, which, covered with red carpet, presents the appearance

of a reception-hall. There is great animation at the Peterhof station

all the time the Court is there, as the greater part of the suite live

in town.

Before the station is a long row of carriages belonging to the Imperial

household; peculiar-shaped victorias are there, horsed by enormous black

Orloff stallions with great arching necks and flowing manes and tails,

looking very much as if they had stepped from one of the pictures of

Wouvermans or Velasquez. Lackeys, with three-cornered hats, gaiters, and

heavy scarlet coats covered with gold lace, usher each guest to his

vehicle, and each starts in a different direction to the many palaces

and offices. Rattling over gravelled roadways, I first fully realize

that in a few moments I shall be in the presence of the mighty Tsar of

all the Russias, the ruler over the greater part of the enormous Asiatic

continent, the autocratic head of millions of human beings.

My request is a very modest one--simply permission to get to my

destination in the Far East through Siberia. There was some difficulty

at the Russian frontier about my further journey, and I was advised to

get the obstacles removed by His Majesty himself. He very likely knew

that I am only interested in the spiritual and philanthropic

institutions established in the Far East, my desire being to get through

to my objective as soon as possible.

We drive for quite a quarter of an hour through woods, and here and

there as we pass by different residences meet sentries marching up and

down. We pass through several gates, all of them made of plain wooden

bars--they might almost be in Leicestershire--each opened and closed by

a Cossack. As we get nearer there are more sentries, and several times

the password is given by the groom.