Whitianga.) lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 47 minutes South, and the
Longitude of 184 degrees 4 minutes West, from the Meridian of Greenwich.
It lies in South-West between 2 and 3 Leagues. There are several Islands
lying both to the Southward and Northward of it, and a Small high Island
or Rock in the Middle of the Entrance. Within this Island the depth of
water doth no were Exceed 9 or 8 fathoms; the best Anchorage is in a
sandy Bay which lies just within the South head in 5 and 4 fathoms,
bringing a high Tower Rock, which lies without the head, in one with the
head, or just shut in behind it. Here it is very Convenient Wooding and
Watering, and in the River are an immense quantity of Oysters and other
small Shell fish; and this is the only thing it is remarkable for, and
hath occasioned my giving it the Name of Oyster River. But the Snugest
and Safest place for a Ship to lay in that wants to stay there any time
is in the River at the head of the Bay, and where there is every
conveniency the place can afford. To sail up and into it keep the South
shore all the way on board. As we did not learn that the Natives had any
name for this River, I have called it the River of Mangroves,* (* Still
so called.) because of the great quantity of these Trees that are found
in it. The Country on the South-East side of this River and Bay is very
barren, producing little else but Fern, and such other plants as delight
in a Poor Soil. The land on the North-West side is pretty well cover'd
with wood, the Soil more fertile, and would no doubt produce the
Necessarys of Life, was it Cultivated. However, this much must be said
against it, that it is not near so Rich nor fertile as the lands we have
seen to the Southward; and the same may be said of its inhabitants, who,
although pretty numerous, are poor to the highest degree when Compar'd to
others we have seen. They have no Plantations, but live only on Fern
roots and fish; their Canoes are mean, and without ornament, and so are
their Houses, or Hutts, and in general everything they have about them.
This may be owing to the frequent wars in which they are Certainly
ingaged; strong proofs of this we have seen, for the people who resided
near the place where we wooded, and who Slept every night in the Open
Air, placed themselves in such a manner when they laid down to sleep as
plainly shew'd that it was necessary for them to be always upon their
Guard. They do not own Subjection to Teeratie, the Earadehi,* (* Cook did
not realize that the New Zealanders were divided into independent
tribes.) but say that he would kill them was he to come Among them; they
confirm the Custom of Eating their Enemies, so that this is a thing no
longer to be doubted. I have before observed that many of the People
about this bay had no fix'd habitations, and we thought so then, but have
since learnt that they have strong holds--or Hippas, as they call
them--which they retire to in time of danger.
We found, thrown upon the Shore in several places in this Bay, a quantity
of Iron Sand, which is brought down out of the Country by almost every
little fresh-water brook. This proves that there must be of that Ore not
far inland. Neither of the Inhabitants of this Place, nor any other where
we have been, know the use of Iron or set the least Value upon it,
preferring the most Trifling thing we could give them to a Nail, or any
sort of Iron Tools. Before we left this bay we cut out upon one of the
Trees near the Watering Place the Ship's Name, date, etc., and, after
displaying the English Colours, I took formal possession of the place in
the Name of His Majesty.
[Off Cape Colville, North Island, New Zealand.]
Thursday, 16th. Fresh breezes between the North-West and South-West, and
fair weather. At 1 P.M., having got within the Group of Islands which
lies of the North head of Mercury Bay, hauld our wind to the Northward,
and Kept plying to windward all the day between these Islands and some
others laying to the Northward of them, with a View to get under the Main
land, the Extream North-West point of which we could see, at Noon, bore
West by North, distant 6 or 8 Leagues; Latitude in Per Observation 36
degrees 33 minutes South.
Note, in speaking of Mercury Bay, I had forgot to mention that the
Mangrove Trees found there produce a resinous substance very much like
Rosin. Something of this kind, I am told, is found in both the East and
West Indies. We found it, at first, in small Lumps upon the Sea Beach,
but afterwards found it sticking to the Mangrove Trees, and by that means
found out from whence it came.
Friday, 17th. The fore and Middle parts had fresh Gales between the
South-West and West by South, and Squally. Kept plying to windward in
order to get under the land. At 6 A.M. fetched close under the lee of the
Northernmost Island in sight, then Tackd and Stood to the Southward until
11, when we tack'd and Stood to the Northward. At this time the North
head of Mercury Bay, or Point Mercury, bore South-East by East, distant 3
Leagues, being at this time between 2 and 3 Leagues from the Main land,
and abreast of a place where there appear'd to be a Harbour;* (* Probably
Waikawau Bay) but the heavy squalls which we had from the Land would not
permit us to take a nearer View of it, but soon brought us under our
Close reeft Topsails. At Noon Point Mercury bore South-East, distant 4
Leagues, and the weathermost point of the Main land in sight bore North
60 degrees West, distant 5 Leagues. Over the North-West side of Mercury
Bay is a pretty high round hill, rising sloping from the Shore of the
Bay. This hill is very conspicuous from where we now are.
Saturday, 18th. First part strong Gales at South-West and
South-South-West, with heavy squalls: in the morning had Gentle breezes
at South and South-East, towards noon had Whifling light Airs all round
the Compass. Kept plying to windward under close Reeft Topsails until
daylight, at which time we had got close under the Main, and the wind
coming at South-East we made sail and steer'd North-West by West, as the
land lays, keeping close in shore. At 6 we passed a small Bay* (* Charles
Cove.) wherein there appear'd to be Anchorage, and pretty good Shelter
from the Sea Winds, at the Entrance of which lies a Rock pretty high
above water. 4 Miles farther to the West-North-West is a very Conspicuous
promontory or point of land which we got abreast of about 7 o'Clock; it
lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 26 minutes South and North 48 degrees
West, 9 Leagues from Point Mercury. From this point the Land trends West
1/2 South near one League, then South-South-East as far as we could see.
Besides the Islands laying without us we could see land round by the
South-West as far as North-West, but whether this was the Main or Islands
was not possible for us at this Time to determine; the fear of loosing
the Main land determin'd me to follow its direction. With this View we
hauld round the point* (* Cape Colville.) and Steer'd to the Southward,
but meeting with Whifling light Airs all round the Compass, we made but
little progress untill noon, when we found ourselves by Observation in
the Latitude of 36 degrees 29 minutes South; a small Island* (* Channel
Island.) which lays North-West 4 Miles from the Promontory
above-mentioned bore North by East, distant 6 1/2 Miles, being at this
time about 2 Miles from the Shore. While we lay under the land 2 large
Canoes came off to us; in one of them were 62 people; they staid about us
some time, then began to throw stones into the Ship, upon which I fir'd a
Musquet ball thro' one of the Canoes. After this they retir'd ashore.
Sunday, 19th. At 1 p.m. a breeze sprung up at East, which afterwards came
to North-East, and with it we steer'd along shore South by East and
South-South-East, having from 25 to 18 fathoms Water. At 1/2 past 7,
having run 7 or 8 Leagues since Noon, we Anchor'd in 23 fathoms, not
choosing to run any farther in the Dark, having the land on both sides of
us forming the Entrance of a Streight, Bay or River, lying in South by
East, for on that point of the Compass we could see no land. At daylight
A.M., the wind being still favourable, we weighed and run under an Easy
sail up the inlet, keeping nearest the East side. Soon after we had got
under Sail 3 large Canoes came off to the Ship, and several of the people
came on board upon the very first invitation; this was owing to their
having heard of our being upon the Coast and the manner we had treated
the Natives. I made each of those that came on board a small present, and
after about an Hour's stay they went away well Satisfied. After having
run 5 Leagues from the place where we Anchor'd last night our Depth of
Water gradually decreased to 6 fathoms, and into less I did not choose to
go, and as the wind blew right up the inlet and tide of flood, we came to
an Anchor nearly in the middle of the Channell, which is here about 11
Miles over, and after this sent 2 Boats to sound, the one on one side and
the other on the other side.
[At Frith of Thames, North Island, New Zealand.]
Monday, 20th. Moderate breezes at South-South-East and fair weather. At 2
p.m. the boats return'd from sounding, not having found above 3 feet more
water than were we now lay; upon this I resolved to go no farther with
the Ship but to examine the head of the Bay in the Boat, for as it
appeard to run a good way inland, I thought this a good opportunity to
see a little of the interior part of the Country and its produce.
Accordingly at daylight in the morning I set out with the Pinnace and
Long boat accompanied by Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and Tupia. We found the
inlet end in a River, about 9 miles above the Ship, into which we Enter'd
with the first of the flood, and before we had gone 3 Miles up it found
the Water quite fresh. We saw a number of Natives and landed at one of
their Villages, the inhabitants of which received us with open Arms. We
made but a Short stay with them but proceeded up the river until near
Noon, when finding the face of the country to continue pretty much the
same, and no alteration in the Course or stream of the River or the least
probability of seeing the end of it, we landed on the West side in order
to take a View of the lofty Trees which Adorn its banks, being at this
time 12 or 14 Miles within the Entrance, and here the Tide of Flood runs
as strong as it does in the River Thames below bridge.
Tuesday, 21st. After Landing as above-mention'd, we had not gone a
hundred yards into the woods before we found a Tree that girted 19 feet 8
inches, 6 feet above the ground, and having a Quadrant with me, I found
its length from the root to the first branch to be 89 feet; it was as
Streight as an Arrow and Taper'd but very little in proportion to its
length, so that I judged that there was 356 Solid feet of timber in this
Tree, clear of the branches. We saw many others of the same sort, several
of which were Taller than the one we measured, and all of them very
stout; there were likewise many other sorts of very Stout Timber Trees,
all of them wholy unknown to any of us. We brought away a few specimens,
and at 3 o'Clock we embarqued in order to return (but not before we had
named this river the Thames,* (* The flourishing town of Thames now
stands at the eastern entrance of the river: population nearly 5000. Gold
is found in the vicinity.) on account of its bearing some resemblance to
that River in England) on board with the very first of the Ebb. In our
return down the river, the inhabitants of the Village where we landed in
going, seeing that we return'd by another Channell, put off in their
Canoes and met us and Trafficked with us in the most friendly manner
immaginable, until they had disposed of the few Trifles they had. The
tide of Ebb just carried us out of the narrow part of the River into the
Sea reach, as I may call it, where meeting with the flood and a Strong
breeze at North-North-West obliged us to come to a Grapnel, and we did
not reach the Ship until 7 o'Clock in the A.M. Intending to get under
Sail at high water the Long boat was sent to take up the Kedge Anchor,
but it blow'd so strong that she could not reach the Buoy, and the gale
increasing soon obliged us to vear away more Cable and Strike Top Gallant
Yards.
Wednesday, 22nd. Winds at North-North-West. The A.M. fresh Gales and
hazey with rain; the remainder, moderate and Clear. At 3 p.m. the Tide of
Ebb making, we took up our Anchors and got under Sail and ply'd down the
River until 8 o'Clock, when we again came to an Anchor in 7 fathoms,
muddy bottom. At 3 a.m. weigh'd with the first of the Ebb and keept
plying until the flood obliged us to anchor again. After this I went in
the Pinnace over to the Western Shore, but found there neither
inhabitants or anything else worthy of Note. At the time I left the Ship
a good many of the Natives were alongside and on board Trafficking with
our people for such Trifles as they had, and seem'd to behave as well as
people could do, but one of them took the 1/2 hour glass out of the
Bittacle, and was caught in the very fact, and for which Mr. Hicks, who
was Commanding Officer, brought him to the Gangway and gave him a Dozen
lashes with a Catt of nine Tails. The rest of the people seem'd not
displeased at it when they came to know what it was for, and some old man
beat the fellow after he had got into his Canoe; however, soon after this
they all went away.
Thursday, 23rd. P.M. Gentle breezes at North-North-West and fair weather.
Between 3 and 4 o'Clock got under Sail with the first of the Ebb and
ply'd to windward until 9 when we anchor'd in 16 fathoms over upon the
East shore. In the night had light Airs and Calm; at 3 A.M. weighed but
had little or no wind until near noon, when a light breeze sprung up at
North-North-West. At this time we were close under the West shore in 7
fathoms Water; Latitude 36 degrees 51 minutes South.
[Description of Frith of Thames, New Zealand.]
Friday, 24th. P.M., Fresh Gales and dark, Cloudy, squally weather, with
Thunder, Lightning, and rain. Winds from the North-West to the
South-West, and this last carried us by 7 o'Clock without the North-West
point of the River, but the weather being bad and having land on all
sides of us, and a Dark night coming on, I thought it most adviseable to
Tack and stretch in under ye Point where we Anchor'd in 19 fathoms. At 5
a.m. weighed and made Sail to the North-West under our Courses and double
Reef'd Topsails, the wind being at South-West by West and
West-South-West, a strong Gale and Squally blowing right off the land,
which would not permit us to come near it, so that from the time of our
getting under Sail until' Noon (during which time we ran 12 Leagues) we
had but a slight and distant View of the Coast and was not able to
distinguish wether the points we saw were parts of the Main or Islands
laying before it, for we never once lost sight of the Main Land.* (* The
Endeavour was now in Hauraki Gulf and had passed the harbour where
Auckland now stands, which is hidden behind a number of islands.) At noon
our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 15 minutes 20 seconds South,
being at this time not above 2 Miles from a Point of Land on the Main and
3 1/2 Leagues from a very high Island* (* Little Barrier Island, now
(1892) about to be made a reserve to protect native fauna.) which bore
North-East by East of us; in this Situation had 26 fathoms Water. The
farthest point we could see on the Main bore from us North-West, but we
could see several small Islands laying to the Northward of that
direction. The point of land we are now abreast off, I take to be the
North-West Extremity of the River Thames, for I shall comprehend under
that Name the Deep Bay we have been in for this week past, the North-East
point of which is the Promontory we past on Saturday morning last, and
which I have named Cape Colvill in honour of the Right hon'ble the Lord
Colvill;* (* Cook had served under Rear Admiral Lord Colville in
Newfoundland.) Latitude 36 degrees 26 minutes South; Longitude 184
degrees 27 minutes West. It rises directly from the Sea to a Considerable
height, but what makes it most remarkable is a high Rock standing close
to the pitch of the point, and from some points of view may be
distinguished at a very great distance. From the South-West point of this
Cape the river Extends itself in a direct line South by East, and is no
where less than 3 Leagues broad until' you are 14 Leagues above the Cape,
there it is at once Contracted to a Narrow stream. From this place it
still continues the same South by East Course thro' a low flat Country or
broad Valley that lies Parrallel with the Sea Coast, the End of which we
could not see. The land on the East side of the Broadest part of this
river is Tollerable high and hilly, that on the West side is rather low,
but the whole is cover'd with woods and Verdure and looks to be pretty
fertile, but we saw but a few small places that were Cultivated. About
the Entrance of the narrow part of the River the land is mostly Cover'd
with Mangroves and other Shrubs, but farther in are immense woods of as
stout lofty timber as is to be found perhaps in any other part of the
world. In many places the woods grow close upon the very banks of the
River, but where it does not the land is Marshey such as we find about
the Thames in England. We saw poles stuck up in many places in the River
to set nets for Catching of fish; from this we immagin'd that there must
be plenty of fish, but of what sort we know not for we saw none. The
Greatest Depth of Water we found was 26 fathoms and decreaseth pretty
gradually as you run up to 1 1/2 and 1 fathom. In the mouth of the
fresh-water Stream or narrow part is 3 and 4 fathoms, but before this are
sand banks and large flatts; Yet, I believe, a Ship of a Moderate draught
of Water may go a long way up this River with a flowing Tide, for I
reckon that the Tides rise upon a perpendicular near 10 feet, and is high
water at the full and Change of the Moon about 9 o'Clock. Six Leagues
within Cape Colvill, under the Eastern Shore, are several small Islands,
these Islands together with the Main seem'd to form some good Harbours.*
(* Coromandel Harbour.) Opposite to these Islands under the Western Shore
lies some other Islands, and it appear'd very probable that these form'd
some good Harbours likewise.* (* Auckland Harbour is one of them.) But
even supposing there were no Harbours about this River, it is good
anchoring in every part of it where the depth of Water is Sufficient,
being defended from the Sea by a Chain of Large and Small Islands which I
have named Barrier Isles, lying aCross the Mouth of it extending
themselves North-West and South-East 10 Leagues. The South end of these
Islands lies North-East 4 1/2 Leagues from the North-West point of the
River, which I have named point Rodney; it lies West-North-West 9 leagues
from Cape Colvill, Latitude 36 degrees 15 minutes; Longitude 184 degrees
58 minutes West. The Natives residing about this River do not appear to
be very numerous considering the great Extent of Country; at least not
many came off to the Ship at one Time, and as we were but little ashore
ourselves we could not so well judge of their numbers. They are a Strong,
well made, active People as any we have seen yet, and all of them Paint
their Bodys with Red Oker and Oil from Head to foot, a thing that we have
not seen before. Their Canoes are large, well built and Ornamented with
Carved work in general as well as most we have seen.
Saturday, 25th. P.M., had fresh Gales at South-West, and Squally weather.
We kept standing along Shore to the North-West, having the Main land on
the one side and Islands on the other; our Soundings were from 26 to 12
fathoms. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. we Anchor'd in a Bay in 14 fathoms, sandy
bottom. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than we caught between 90 and
100 Bream (a fish so called), this occasioned my giving this place the
Name of Bream Bay.* (* Whangarei Bay.) The 2 points which forms this Bay
lie North and South 5 Leagues from each other. The Bay is every where
pretty broad and between 3 and 4 Leagues deep; at the bottom of it their
appears to be a fresh water River.* (* Whangarei River. The district is
very fertile. Coal mines are in the vicinity, and coal is exported.) The
North head of the Bay, called Bream head, is high land and remarkable on
account of several peaked rocks ranged in order upon the top of it; it
lies in the Latitude 35 degrees 46 minutes South and North 41 degrees
West, distant 17 1/2 Leagues from Cape Colvill. This Bay may likewise be
known by some Small Islands lying before it called the Hen and Chickens,
one of which is pretty high and terminates at Top in 2 peaks. The land
between Point Rodney and Bream Head, which is 10 Leagues, is low and
wooded in Turfs, and between the Sea and the firm land are white sand
banks. We saw no inhabitants but saw fires in the Night, a proof that the
Country is not uninhabited. At daylight A.M. we left the Bay and directed
our Course along shore to the northward, having a Gentle breeze at South
by West and Clear weather. A little after sunrise found the Variation to
be 12 degrees 42 minutes Easterly. At Noon, our Latitude by observation
was 36 degrees 36 minutes South; Bream head bore South distant 10 Miles;
some small Islands (Poor Knights) at North-East by North distant 3
Leagues, and the Northermost land in sight bore North-North-West, being
at this Time 2 miles from the Shore, and in this Situation had 26
fathoms; the land here about is rather low and pretty well cover'd with
wood and seems not ill inhabited.
[Off Cape Brett, North Island, New Zealand.]
Sunday, 26th. P.M., Gentle breezes between the East-North-East and North,
kept ranging along shore to the Northward. At the distance of 4 or 5
Miles off saw several Villages and some Cultivated lands; towards evening
several Canoes came off to us, and some of the Natives ventur'd on board;
to 2, who appear'd to be Chiefs, I gave presents. After these were gone
out of the Ship, the others became so Troublesome that in order to get
rid of them we were at the expence of 2 or 3 Musquet Balls, and one 4
pound Shott, but as no harm was intended them, none they received, unless
they hapned to over heat themselves in pulling on shore. In the Night had
variable light Airs, but towards morning had a light breeze at South, and
afterward at South-East; with this we proceeded slowly to the Northward.
At 6 a.m. several Canoes came off from the place where they landed last
night, and between this and noon many more came from other parts. Had at
one time a good many of the people on board, and about 170 alongside;
their behaviour was Tolerable friendly, but we could not prevail upon
them to Traffic with us. At noon, the Mainland Extending from South by
East to North-West by West; a remarkable point of land bore West, distant
4 or 5 miles. Latitude Observed 35 degrees 11 minutes South.
Monday, 27th. P.M., Gentle breezes Easterly, and Clear weather. At 3
passed the point of land afore-mentioned, which I have named Cape Brett
in honour of Sir Piercy.* (* Rear Admiral Sir Piercey Brett was one of
the Lords of the Admiralty when the Endeavour sailed.) The land of this
Cape is considerable higher than any part of the Adjacent Coast. At the
very point of the Cape is a high round Hillock, and North-East by North,
near one Mile from this is a small high Island or Rock with a hole
pierced thro' it like the Arch of a Bridge, and this was one reason why I
gave the Cape the above name, because Piercy seem'd very proper for that
of the Island. This Cape, or at least some part of it, is called by the
Natives Motugogogo; Latitude 35 degrees 10 minutes 30 seconds South,
Longitude 185 degrees 25 minutes West. On the West side of Cape Brett is
a large and pretty deep Bay* (* The Bay of Islands.) lying in South-West
by West, in which there appear'd to be several small Islands. The point
that forms the North-West entrance I have named Point Pocock; it lies
West 1/4 North, 3 or 4 Leagues from Cape Brett. On the South-West side of
this Bay we saw several Villages situated both on Islands and on the Main
land, from whence came off to us several large Canoes full of People,
but, like those that had been alongside before, would not Enter into a
friendly Traffick with us, but would Cheat whenever they had an
opportunity. The people in these Canoes made a very good appearance,
being all stout well-made men, having their Hair--which was black--comb'd
up and tied upon the Crown of their heads, and there stuck with white
feathers; in each of the Canoes were 2 or 3 Chiefs, and the Habits of
these were rather superior to any we had yet seen. The Cloth they wore
was of the best sort, and cover'd on the outside with Dog Skins put on in
such a manner as to look Agreeable enough to the Eye. Few of these people
were Tattow'd or marked in the face, like those we have seen farther to
the South, but several had their Backsides Tattow'd much in the same
manner as the inhabitants of the Islands within the Tropics. In the
Course of this day, that is this afternoon and Yesterday forenoon, we
reckoned that we had not less than 400 or 500 of the Natives alongside
and on board the ship, and in that time did not range above 6 or 8
Leagues of the Sea Coast, a strong proof that this part of the Country
must be well inhabited. In the Evening, the Wind came to the Westward of
North, and we Tack'd and stood off North-East until 11 o'Clock, when the
wind coming more favourable we stood again to the Westward. At 8 a.m we
were within a Mile of Groups of Islands lying close under the Mainland
and North-West by West 1/2 West, distance 22 Miles from Cape Brett. Here
we lay for near 2 Hours, having little or no wind. During this time
several Canoes came off to the Ship, and 2 or 3 of them sold us some
fish--Cavallys as they are called--which occasioned my giving the Islands
the same name. After this some others began to Pelt us with Stones, and
would not desist at the firing of 2 Musquet Balls thro' one of their
Boats; at last I was obliged to pepper 2 or 3 fellows with small Shott,
after which they retir'd, and the wind coming at North-West we stood off
to Sea. At Noon, Cavally Islands bore South-West by South, distant 4
Miles; Cape Brett South-East, distant 7 Leagues, and the Westermost land
in sight, making like Islands, bore West by North; Latitude in per
Observation 34 degrees 55 minutes South.
Tuesday, 28th. A Fresh breeze from the Westward all this day, which being
right in our teeth, we kept beating to windward with all the sail we
could Crowd, but instead of Gaining we lost ground. A.M., being close in
with the land to the Westward of the Bay, which lies on this side of Cape
Brett, we saw at some distance inland 2 pretty large Villages Pallisaded
in the same manner as others we have seen. At noon, Cape Brett South-East
by East 1/2 East, distant 6 Leagues; Latitude observed 35 degrees 0
minutes South.
[At Bay of Islands, North Island, New Zealand.]
Wednesday, 29th. Fresh Gales at North-West and West-North-West, kept
plying to Windward until 7 A.M., and finding that we lost ground every
board we made, I thought I could not do better than to bear up for the
Bay, which lies to the Westward of Cape Brett, it being at this Time not
above 2 Leagues to Leeward of us, for by putting in there we should gain
some knowledge of it, on the Contrary, by Keeping the Sea with a Contrary
wind, we were sure of meeting with nothing new. These reasons induced me
to bear away for the Bay,* (* The Bay of Islands.) and at 11 o'Clock we
Anchor'd under the South-West side of one of the many Islands* (* Motu
Arohia.) that line the South-East side of it, in 4 1/2 fathoms; but as we
fell into this shoald water all at once, we Anchor'd sooner than was
intended, and sent the Master with 2 Boats to sound, who found that we
had got upon a Bank that spitted off from the North-West end of the
Island, and that on the outside of it was 8 and 10 fathoms Water.
Thursday, 30th. P.M., had the winds Westerly, with some very heavy
Showers of Rain. We had no sooner come to an Anchor than between 300 and
400 of the Natives Assembled in their Canoes about the Ship; some few
were admitted on board, and to one of the Chiefs I gave a piece of Broad
Cloth and distributed a few Nails, etc., among some others of them. Many
of these People had been off to the Ship when we were at Sea, and seem'd
to be very sencible of the use of Fire Arms, and in the Trade we had with
them they behaved Tolerable well, but continued so not long, before some
of them wanted to take away the Buoy,* (* The buoy on the anchor.) and
would not desist at the firing of several Musquets until one of them was
hurt by small Shott, after which they withdrew a small distance from the
Ship, and this was thought a good opportunity to try what Effect a Great
Gun would have, as they paid so little respect to a Musquet, and
accordingly one was fir'd over their Heads. This, I believe, would have
sent them quite off, if it had not been for Tupia, who soon prevail'd on
them to return to the Ship, when their behaviour was such as gave us no
room to suspect that they meant to give us any farther Trouble.
After the Ship was moved into Deeper Water I went with the Pinnace and
Yawl, mann'd and Arm'd, and landed upon the Island, accompanied by Mr.
Banks and Dr. Solander. We had scarce landed before all the Canoes left
the Ship and landed at different parts of the Island, and before we could
well look about us we were surrounded by 2 or 300 People, and,
notwithstanding that they were all Arm'd, they came upon us in such a
confused, straggling manner that we hardly suspected that they meant us
any harm; but in this we were very soon undeceived, for upon our
Endeavouring to draw a line on the sand between us and them they set up
the War dance, and immediately some of them attempted to seize the 2
Boats. Being disappointed in this, they next attempted to break in upon
us, upon which I fir'd a Musquet loaded with small Shott at one of the
Forwardest of them, and Mr. Banks and 2 of the Men fir'd immediately
after. This made them retire back a little, but in less than a minute one
of the Chiefs rallied them again. Dr. Solander, seeing this, gave him a
peppering with small Shott, which sent him off and made them retire a
Second time. They attempted to rally several times after, and only seem'd
to want some one of resolution to head them; but they were at last
intirely dispers'd by the Ship firing a few shott over their Heads and a
Musquet now and then from us. In this Skirmish only one or 2 of them was
Hurt with small Shott, for I avoided killing any one of them as much as
Possible, and for that reason withheld our people from firing. We had
observed that some had hid themselves in a Cave in one of the Rocks, and
sometime after the whole was over we went Towards them. The Chief who I
have mentioned to have been on board the Ship hapned to be one of these;
he, his wife, and another came out to meet us, but the rest made off.
Those 3 people came and sat down by us, and we gave them of such things
as we had about us. After this we went to another part of the Island,
where some of the inhabitants came to us, and were as meek as lambs.
Having taken a View of the Bay from the Island and Loaded both Boats with
Sellery, which we found here in great plenty, we return'd on board, and
at 4 A.M. hove up the Anchor in order to put to Sea, with a light breeze
at East, but it soon falling Calm, obliged us to come too again, and
about 8 or 9 o'Clock, seeing no probability of our getting to Sea, I sent
the Master to Sound the Harbour. But before this I order'd Matthew Cox,
Henry Stevens, and Emanl Parreyra to be punished with a dozen lashes each
for leaving their duty when ashore last night, and digging up Potatoes
out of one of the Plantations.* (* Cook's care to deal fairly with
natives is evinced by this punishment.) The first of the 3 I remitted
back to Confinement because he insisted that there was no harm in what he
had done. All this Forenoon had abundance of the Natives about the Ship
and some few on board. We Trafficked with them for a few Trifles, in
which they dealt very fair and friendly.
[December 1769.]
Friday, 1st December. Winds at North-North-West a Gentle breeze. At 3
p.m., the Boats having return'd from sounding, I went with them over to
the South side of the Harbour, and landed upon the Main, accompanied by
Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. We met with nothing new or remarkable. The
place where we landed was in a small sandy Cove, where there are 2 small
Streams of Fresh Water and Plenty of Wood for fuel. Here were likewise
several little Plantations planted with Potatoes and Yams. The Soil and
Natural produce of the Country was much the same as what we have hitherto
met with. The people we saw behaved to us with great marks of friendship.
In the evening we had Some very heavy showers of rain, and this brought
us on board sooner than we intended. A.M., the wind being still contrary,
I sent some people ashore upon the Island to cut Grass for our Sheep, in
the doing of which the inhabitants gave them no sort of disturbance, and
in the same friendly manner did those behave that were alongside the
Ship. Punished Matthew Cox with 6 Lashes, and then dismiss'd him.
Saturday, 2nd. Winds at North-West and North. P.M. a Gentle breeze; the
remainder Strong Gales and hazey, with much rain towards Noon. At 8 a.m.
hoisted out the Long boat, and sent her ashore for water, and the Pinnace
to haul the Sean; but they had not got well ashore before it began to
blow and rain very hard. This occasioned them to return on board with one
Turn of water and but a very few fish.
Sunday, 3rd. P.M., Strong Gales at North, with rain; the remainder Gentle
breezes from the Westward. A.M., sent 2 Boats to sound the Harbour and
one to haul the Sean, the latter of which met with very little Success.
Monday, 4th. Gentle breezes at North-West, West-North-West, and West;
very fair weather. P.M., Mr. Banks, Dr. Solander, and myself landed upon
one of the Islands* (* Probably Motu-Rua.) on the North side of the one
the Ship lays under. This Island is about 3 Miles in Circuit, and hath
upon it 40 or 50 Acres of Land cultivated and planted with roots; here
are likewise several small streams of Excellent water. This Island, as
well as most others in this Bay, seem to be well inhabited. At 4 a.m.
sent the Long boat to the above Island for water and some hands to cut
Grass, and at 9, I went with the Pinnace and Yawl over upon the Main,
accompanied by Mr. Banks and Dr. Solander. In our way we passed by a
point of land on which stood a Hippa or Fortified Village, the
inhabitants of which waved us to come ashore, and accordingly we landed,
which we had no sooner done than the People came about us with Quantitys
of various sorts of fish, which we purchased of them for meer Trifles.
After this they shew'd us the Village, which was a neat Compact place,
and its situation well Choose. There were 2 or 3 more near unto this, but
these we did not go to. We afterwards went a little way into the Country,
and had some of the Natives along with us; we met with a good deal of
Cultivated land, planted mostly with sweet potatoes. The face of the
Country appear'd Green and pleasant, and the soil seem'd to be pretty
rich and proper for Cultivation. The land is every where about this Bay
of a moderate height, but full of small Hills and Vallies, and not much
incumbered with wood. We met with about 1/2 a dozen Cloth plants, being
the same as the inhabitants of the Islands lying within the Tropics make
their finest Cloth on. This plant must be very scarce among them, as the
Cloth made from it is only worn in small pieces by way of Ornaments at
their ears, and even this we have seen but very seldom. Their knowing the
use of this sort of Cloth doth in some measure account for the
extraordinary fondness they have shew'd for it above every other thing we
had to give them. Even a sheet of white paper is of more value than so
much English Cloth of any sort whatever; but, as we have been at few
places where I have not given away more or less of the latter, it's more
than probable that they will soon learn to set a value upon it, and
likewise upon Iron, a thing not one of them knows the use of or sets the
least value upon; but was European commodities in ever such Esteem among
them, they have no one thing of Equal value to give in return, at least
that we have seen.
Tuesday, 5th. P.M., had the winds at South-West and West-South-West, a
fresh breeze. At 3 o'Clock we return'd on board, and after dinner Visited
another part of the Bay, but met with nothing new. By the evening all our
Empty Casks were fill'd with water, and had at the same time got on board
a large quantity of Sellery, which is found here in great Plenty. This I
still caused to be boild every morning with Oatmeal and Portable Soup for
the Ship's Company's breakfast. At 4 a.m. weigh'd with a light breeze at
South-East, but had Variable light Airs and sometimes Calm until near
Noon, when a Gentle breeze sprung up at North. At this time we had not
got out of the Bay; our Latitude by Observation was 35 degrees 9 minutes
South. This Bay I have before observed, lies on the West side of Cape
Brett: I have named it the Bay of Islands,* (* The principal settlement
in the Bay of Islands is Russell. A little higher up the Waikare River,
at Opua, coal obtained from mines in the vicinity is shipped. At Russell,
then called Kororarika, the first settlement of missionaries was formed
in 1814 by Samuel Marsden. Here also the Government of the Island was
first established in 1840, but was soon removed to Auckland.) on account
of the Great Number which line its shores, and these help to form Several
safe and Commodious Harbours, wherein is room and Depth of Water
sufficient for any number of Shipping. The one we lay in is on the
South-West side of South-Westermost Island, that lies on the South-East
side of the Bay. I have made no accurate Survey of this Bay; the time it
would have requir'd to have done this discouraged me from attempting it;
besides, I thought it quite Sufficient to be able to Affirm with
Certainty that it affords a good Anchorage and every kind of refreshment
for Shipping, but as this was not the Season for roots, we got only fish.
Some few we Caught ourselves with hook and line and in the Sean, but by
far the greatest part we purchased of the Natives, and these of Various
sorts, such as Sharks, Stingrays, Breams, Mullet, Mackerel, and several
other sorts. Their way of Catching them is the same as ours, viz., with
Hook and line and Seans; of the last they have some prodidgious large
made all of a Strong Kind of Grass. The Mackerel are in every respect the
same as those we have in England, only some are larger than any I ever
saw in any other Part of the World; although this is the Season for this
fish, we have never been able to Catch one with hook and line. The
inhabitants of this Bay are far more numerous than at any other place we
have yet been in, and seem to live in friendship one with another,
although it doth not at all appear that they are united under one head.*
(* This district was found to be very populous when the missionaries
came.) They inhabited both the Islands and the Main, and have a Number of
Hippas, or Strong Holds, and these are all built in such places as nature
hath in a great part fortified, and what she hath left undone the people
themselves have finished. It is high water in this Bay at full and change
of the Moon about 8 o'clock, and the tide at these times rises and falls
upon a perpendicular 6 or 8 feet. It appears, from the few Observations I
have been able to make of the Tides on the Sea-Coast, that the flood
comes from the Southward, and I have lately had reasons to think that
there is a current which comes from the Westward and sets along shore to
the South-East or South-South-East, as the Land lays.
[Sail from Bay of Islands, New Zealand.]
Wednesday, 6th. P.M., had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West, with which
we kept turning out of the Bay, but gain'd little or nothing; in the
evening it fell little wind; at 10 o'Clock it was Calm. At this time the
tide or Current seting the Ship near one of the Islands, where we were
very near being ashore; but, by the help of our Boats and a light Air
from the Southward, we got clear. About an hour after, when we thought
ourselves out of all danger, the Ship struck upon a Sunken rock* (*
Called Whale Rock, in Endeavour's chart.) and went immediately clear
without receiving any perceptible damage. Just before the man in the
Chains had 17 fathoms Water, and immediately after she struck 5 fathoms,
but very soon Deepned to 20. This rock lies half-a-mile West-North-West
from the Northermost or outermost Island that lies on the South-East side
of the Bay. Had light Airs from the Land and sometimes Calm until 9
o'Clock a.m.; at this time we had got out of the Bay, and a breeze
springing up at North-North-West, we stood out to Sea. At noon Cape Brett
bore South-South-East 1/2 South, distant 10 miles. Latitude observed, 34
degrees 59 minutes South.
Thursday, 7th. P.M., a fresh breeze from the Westward and Clear weather.
At 3 o'Clock took several Observations of the Sun and Moon; the mean
result of them gives 185 degrees 36 minutes West Longitude from the
Meridian of Greenwich. What winds we have had this 24 hours hath been
against us, so that at Noon we had advanced but very little to the
Westward.
Friday, 8th. Forepart of P.M. had a Gentle breeze at North-North-West,
with which we stood in shore and fetched close under the Cavalle Islands.
They are a Group of Small Islands lying close under the Main land, and 7
Leagues North 60 West from Cape Brett, and 3 1/2 Leagues from Point
Rodney. From these Islands the Main land trends West by North. We were
here Visited by several Canoes, and the People in them seem'd desirous of
Trafficking with us, but at this time a breeze of wind sprung up at
South, they could not keep up with the Ship, and I would not wait for
them. The wind did not continue long at South before it veer'd to
South-West and West, a light breeze. Found the Variation in the Evening
to be 12 degrees 42 minutes East, and in the Morning 13 degrees East.
Keept standing to the West-North-West and North-West until 10 A.M., at
which time we tacked and stood in for the Shore, being about 5 Leagues
off, and in this situation had 118 fathoms Water. At Noon Cape Brett bore
South-East, distant 13 Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore
West by South, being at this time about 4 Leagues from Land. Latitude in
per Observation, 34 degrees 42 minutes South.
Saturday, 9th. P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West, which in the Evening
came to South and continued so all night; this by daylight brought us
pretty well in with the land, 7 Leagues to the Westward of the Cavalle
Isles, and where lies a deep Bay running in South-West by West and
West-South-West, the bottom of which we could but just see, and there the
land appear'd to be low and level, the 2 points which form the Entrance
lie West-North-West and East-South-East 5 Miles from each other. This Bay
I have named Doubtless Bay;* (* There is a small settlement called
Mangonui in Doubtless Bay.) the wind not permitting us to look into this
Bay we steer'd for the Westermost land we had in sight, which bore from
us West-North-West, distant 3 Leagues, but before we got the length of it
it fell calm, and continued so until 10 o'Clock, when a breeze sprung up
at West-North-West, and with it we stood off North. While we lay
becalm'd, several of the Natives came off to the Ship in 5 Canoes, but
were fearful of venturing alongside. After these were gone, 6 more came
off; these last came boldly alongside, and sold us fish of different
sorts sufficient to give all hands a little.
At noon, the Cavalle Islands bore South-East by East, distant 8 Leagues,
and the Entrance of Doubtless Bay South by West distant 3 Leagues, and
the North-West Extremity of the Land in sight, which we judge to be the
Main, bore North-West by West. Our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees
44 minutes South.
[Off Rangaunu Bay, North Island, New Zealand.]
Sunday, 10th. Had the winds from the Western board all this day, a Gentle
breeze and clear weather. In the evening found the Variation to be 12
degrees 41 minutes East per Azimuth and 12 degrees 40 minutes by the
Amplitude; in the morning we stood Close in with the Land, 7 Leagues to
the westward of Doubtless Bay. Here the shore forms another large open
Bay; the Bottom of this and Doubtless Bay cannot be far from each other,
being to all appearance only seperated by a low neck of land from which
juts out a Peninsula or head land, which I have named Knockle Point. West
by South 6 Leagues from this point and about the Middle of the Bay is a
high Mountain or Hill standing upon a desart shore, on which account we
called it Mount Camel; Latitude 34 degrees 51 minutes; Longitude 186
degrees 50 minutes. In this Bay we had 24 and 25 fathoms Water, the
bottom good for Anchorage, but their seems to be nothing that can induce
Shipping to put into it for no Country upon Earth can look more barren
than the land about this bay doth. It is in general low, except the
Mountain just Mentioned, and the Soil to all appearance nothing but white
sand thrown up in low irregular hills, lying in Narrow ridges parrallel
with the shore; this occasioned me to name it Sandy Bay.* (* Rangaunu
Bay.) The first ridge behind the Sea beach is partly cover'd with Shrubs,
Plants, etc., but the second ridge hath hardly any green thing upon it,
which induced me to think that it lies open to the Western Sea.* (* This
is the fact.) As barren as this land appears it is not without
inhabitants. We saw a Village on this Side of Mount Camel and another on
the Eastern side of the Bay, besides 5 Canoes that were pulling off to
the Ship, but did not come up with us. At 9 a.m. we tacked and stood to
the Northward at Noon. Latitude in Per observation 34 degrees 38 minutes.
The Cavalle Isles bore South-East by East, distant 13 Leagues; the
Northern Extremity of the land in sight making like an Island bore
North-West 1/4 North, distant 9 Leagues, and Mount Camel bore South-West
by South, distant 6 Leagues. Tacked and stood in Shore.
Monday, 11th. Gentle breezes at North. M.d and pleasant weather. Keept
plying all the day, but got very little to Windward; at Noon was in the
Latitude of 34 degrees 32 minutes South, the Northermost inland set
yesterday at noon bore North-West by West, distant 6 or 7 Leagues.
Tuesday, 12th. Moderate breezes of Wind between the North-West and North
and Smooth Water, yet we gain'd very little in plying to Windward; at
Noon Mount Camel bore South by West 1/4, distant 4 or 5 Leagues. Latitude
observed 34 degrees 34 minutes South.
Wednesday, 13th. Fore part of P.M., Moderate breezes at North by West and
fair weather; stood in shore until 5 O'Clock, at which time we tack'd and
stood to the North-East being 2 Leagues to the Northward of Mount Camel
and 1 1/2 Mile from shore, and this situation had 22 fathoms water. At 10
it began to blow and rain, which brought us under double Reeft Top sails;
at 12 Tack'd and Stood to the Westward until 7 A.M. when we Tack'd and
stood again to North-East, being at this time about a Mile to windward of
the place where we tack'd last night. Soon after we Tack'd it came on to
blow very hard at North-North-West with heavy squalls attended with rain,
this brought us under our Courses and Split the Main Top sail in such a
manner that it was necessary to unbend it and bring another to the Yard.
At 10 it fell more moderate and we set the Top sails double reef'd. At
Noon had strong Gales and hazey weather, Tack'd and stood to the
Westward. No land in sight for the first time since we have been upon the
Coast.
Thursday, 14th. Strong Gales at West and West-South-West with Squalls at
times attended with Rain. At 1/2 past 3 P.M. Tack'd and stood to the
Northward. A small Island lying off Knockle point, bore South 1/2 West,
distant half a League. In the evening brought the Ship under her Courses,
having first Split the Fore and Mizen Top sails; at Midnight wore and
Stood to the Southward until 5 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the
North-West. At this time saw the land bearing South, distant 8 or 9
Leagues; by this we found we had fell very much to Leeward since
Yesterday morning. Set the Top sails close Reeft and the people to dry
and repair the Damaged Sails. At Noon a strong Gale and clear weather,
Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 6 minutes South. Saw land bearing South-West
being the same North-Westermost land we have seen before, and which I
take to be the Northern Extremity of this Country, as we have now a large
swell rowling in from the Westward which could not well be, was we
covered by any land on that point of the Compass.* (* The Endeavour was
now to the northward of the north point of New Zealand.)
[Off North Cape, New Zealand.]
Friday, 15th. Fresh Gales at South-West, and for the most part clear
weather with a large Swell from the Westward. At 8 P.M. Tack'd and Stood
to the South-East until 8 a.m., and then Tack'd and stood to the Westward
with as much sail as the Ship could bear. At Noon we were in the Latitude
of 34 degrees 10 minutes South, and Longitude 183 degrees 45 minutes
West, and by Estimation about 15 Leagues from the Land notwithstanding we
used our utmost Endeavours to keep in with it.
Saturday, 16th. Fresh breezes between the South by West and South-West.
Clear weather with a Swell from the Westward. At 6 A.M. saw the land from
the Mast Head bearing South-South-West. Got Top Gallant Yards up and set
the Sail, unbent the Foresail to repair and brought another to the Yard.
At Noon, Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 43 minutes South; Course made since
Yesterday Noon North 60 degrees West; distance 56 Miles. The Land in
sight bearing South by West, distant 14 Leagues.
Sunday, 17th. A Gentle breeze between the South-West by West and West
with Clear weather. In standing in Shore sounded several times and had no
ground with 90 fathoms of line. At 8 a.m. Tack'd in 108 fathoms 3 or 4
miles from the Shore, being the same point of Land as we had to the
North-West of us before we were blown off. At Noon it bore South-West,
distant about 3 Miles. Mount Camel bore South by East, distant 11
Leagues, and the Westermost land in sight bore South 75 degrees West;
Latitude observ'd 34 degrees 20 minutes South. The people at work
repairing the Sails, the most of them having been Split in the late
blowing weather.
Monday, 18th. Moderate breezes at West and West-North-West and Clear
weather. At 4 p.m. Tack'd and stood in shore, in doing of which we meet
with a Strong rippling, and the Ship fell fast to leeward, occasioned, as
we thought, by a Current setting to the Eastward. At 8 Tack'd and stood
off North until 8 a.m., when we Tack'd and stood in, being about 10
Leagues from the Land. At Noon the Point of Land we were near to
yesterday at noon bore South-South-West, distant 5 Leagues. Latitude
observed 34 degrees 8 minutes South.
Tuesday, 19th. The wind still continues at West. P.M., a moderate breeze
and Clear weather. At 7 Tack'd in 35 fathoms; the point of land before
mentioned bore North-West by North, distant 4 or 5 Miles, having not
gained one inch to windward this last 24 hours, which is a great proof
that there must be a Current setting to the Eastward.* (* This strong
easterly current is now well known.) The Point of Land above mentioned I
have called North Cape, judging it to be the Northermost Extremity of
this Country. It lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 22 minutes South and
Longitude 186 degrees 55 minutes West from Greenwich,* (* This position
is very correct.) and North 63 degrees West 31 Leagues from Cape Brett;
it forms the North Point of Sandy Bay, and is a peninsula juting out
North-East about 2 Miles, and Terminates in a Bluff head which is flatt
at Top. The Isthmus which joins this head to the Mainland is very low, on
which account the land off the Cape from several situations makes like an
Island. It appears still more remarkable when to the Southward of it by
the appearance of a high round Island at the South-East Point of the
Cape; but this is likewise a deception, being a round hill join'd to the
Cape by a low, narrow neck of Land; on the South-East side of the Cape
there appears to be anchorage, and where ships must be covered from
South-East and North-West winds. We saw a Hippa or Village upon the Cape
and some few inhabitants. In the night had some Squalls attended with
rain, which obliged us to take another Reef in our Topsails. At 8 a.m.
Tack'd and stood in Shore, and being moderate loosed a Reef out of each
Topsail and set the small sails. At noon we were in the Latitude of 34
degrees 2 minutes South, and being hazey over the land we did not see it.
Wednesday, 20th. P.M., Fresh breezes at West by North, and Clear weather.
At 6 Tack'd and stood off, North Cape bore South, distant 3 or 4 Miles.
At 4 a.m. Tack'd and stood in, Wind at West-North-West a fresh breeze,
but at 9 it increased to a Strong Gale with heavy squalls attended with
Thunder and Rain, which brought us under our Courses. At 11 it Cleared up
and the Wind came to West-South-West; we set the Topsails, double Reef'd
and Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon, a Stiff Gale and Clear
weather; Latitude observed 34 degrees 14 minutes South. North Cape
South-South-West, distant 3 Leagues.
Thursday, 21st. Fresh breezes at South-West and clear weather with a
heavy swell first from the West, then from the South-West. At 8 a.m.
loosed the 2nd Reef out of the Topsails; at noon clear weather, no land
in sight. The North Cape bore South 25 degrees East, distant 24 Leagues.
Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South.
Friday, 22nd. A moderate Gale at South by West and South-South-West and
Cloudy weather. At 8 a.m. got up Top Gallant Yards and set the sails. At
Noon Latitude observ'd 33 degrees 2 minutes South. Course and distant
since Yesterday at Noon is North 69 1/2 West, 37 Miles. The North Cape
bore South 39 degrees East, distant 38 Leagues.
Saturday, 23rd. Gentle breezes between the South by West and South-West,
and Clear settled weather, with a swell from the South-West. Course and
distance sailed since Yesterday at Noon is South 60 degrees East, 30
Miles. Latitude observed 33 degrees 17 minutes South. North Cape South 36
minutes East, distant 27 Leagues.
Sunday, 24th. Light Airs next to a Calm all this 24 Hours. At 7 p.m. saw
the land from the Mast head bearing South 1/2 East; at 11 a.m. saw it
again bearing South-South-East, distant 8 Leagues. At Noon Latitude
observed 33 degrees 48 minutes South.
Monday, 25th. A Gentle breeze at South-East, the weather a little hazey.
P.M., stood to the South-West. At 4 the land above mentioned bore
South-East by South, distant 4 Leagues. It proves to be a small Island,
which we take to be the 3 Kings discover'd by Tasman; there are several
Smaller Islands or Rocks lying off the South-West end and one at the
North-East end. It lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 10 minutes South,
and Longitude 187 degrees 45 minutes West and West 14 degrees North, 14
or 15 Leagues from the North Cape. At Midnight Tack'd and stood to the
North-East until 6 a.m., then Tack'd and stood to the Southward. At Noon
the Island of the 3 Kings bore East 8 degrees North, distant 5 or 6
Leagues. Latitude observed 34 degrees 12 minutes South, Longitude in 188
degrees 5 minutes West; variation per Azimuth taken this morning 11
degrees 25 minutes East.
Tuesday, 26th. Moderate breezes, Easterly and hazey weather; standing to
the Southward close upon a wind. At Noon was in the Latitude of 35
degrees 10 minutes South and Longitude 188 degrees 20 minutes West. The
island of the 3 Kings North 26 degrees West, distant 22 Leagues. In this
situation had no land in sight, and yet by observation we are in the
Latitude of the Bay of Islands, and by my reckoning but 30 Leagues to the
Westward of the North Cape, from whence it appears that the Northern part
of this land must be very narrow, otherwise we must have seen some part
of the West side of it.
Wednesday, 27th. Winds at East. P.M., a fresh Gale, with which we stood
to the Southward until 12 at Night, then Tack'd and Stood to the
Northward. At 4 a.m. the wind began to freshen, and increased in such a
manner that at 9 we were obliged to bring the Ship too under her
Mainsail, it blowing at this time excessive hard with heavy Squalls
attended with rain, and at the same time thick hazey weather. Course made
good since Yesterday at Noon South-South-West 1/2 West, distance 11
Miles. Latitude in 35 degrees 19 minutes South, Longitude in 188 degrees
29 minutes West. The Island of the 3 Kings, North 27 degrees East,
distant 77 Miles.
[Off North End of New Zealand.]
Thursday, 28th. The Gale continued without the least intermission until 2
a.m., when the wind fell a little and began to veer to the Southward and
to the South-West where it fixed at 4, and we made Sail and steer'd East
in for the Land under the Foresail and Mainsail, but was soon obliged to
take in the latter as it began to blow very hard and increased in such a
manner that by 8 o'Clock it was a meer Hurricane attended with rain and
the Sea run prodidgious high. At this time we wore the Ship, hauld up the
Topsail, and brought her too with her head to the North-West under a
Reefed Mainsail, but this was scarcely done before the Main Tack gave way
and we were glad to take in the Mainsail and lay too under the Mizen
staysail and Ballanced Mizen, after which we reefd the Foresail and
furl'd both it and the Mainsail. At Noon the Gale was a little abated,
but had still heavy squalls attended with rain. Our Course made good
to-day is North, a little Easterly, 29 miles; Latitude in per Account 34
degrees 50 minutes South; Longitude in 188 degrees 27 minutes West; the 3
Kings North 41 East; distant 52 Miles.
Friday, 29th. Winds at South-West and South-West by West. A very hard
Gale with Squalls but mostly fair weather. At 7 p.m. wore and lay on the
other Tack. At 6 a.m. loosed the Reef out of the Foresail and Set it and
the Reefd Mainsail. At 11 unbent both Foresail and Mainsail to repair,
and bent others and made Sail under them. At Noon Latitude observed 34
degrees 45 minutes South. Course and distance saild since yesterday East
by North 29 miles.
Saturday, 30th. Winds at South-West. P.M., hard Gales with some Squalls
attended with rain. A.M., more moderate and fair. At 8 p.m. wore and
stood to the North-West until 5 a.m., then wore and stood to the
South-East and being pretty moderate we set the Topsails close Reef'd,
but the South-West Sea runs so high that the Ship goes Bodily to leeward.
At 6 saw the land bearing North-East distant about 6 Leagues which we
judge to be the same as Tasman calls Cape Maria Van Dieman; at Noon it
bore North-North-East 1/2 East and we could see the land extend to the
East and Southward as far as South-East by East. Our Latitude by
observation 34 degrees 50 minutes South.
Sunday, 31st. Fresh gales at South-West and South-West by South
accompanied by a large Sea from the same Quarter. At 1 p.m. Tack'd and
Stood to the North-West until 8, then stood to the South-East. At this
time the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by West, distant 11
Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen North by East. At Midnight wore and
Stood to the North-West until 4 a.m., then wore and Stood to the
South-East; at Noon our Latitude by observation was 34 degrees 42 minutes
South. The land of Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-East by North distant
about 5 Leagues.
1770.
[January 1770.]
Monday, January 1st. P.M., fresh breezes at South-West by South and
Squally, the remainder moderate breezes at South-West by South and
South-West clear weather. At 7 p.m. Tack'd and stood to the Westward. At
this time Mount Camel bore North 83 degrees East and the Northermost land
or Cape Maria Van Diemen North by West, being distant from the Nearest
Shore 3 Leagues; in this situation had 40 fathoms Water.
NOTE. Mount Camel doth not appear to lay little more than a Mile from the
Sea on this Side* (* It is, in fact, about six miles, but the coast in
front is so low that the mistake in estimation is very natural.) and
about the same distance on the other, so that the land here cannot be
above 2 or 3 Miles broad from Sea to Sea, which is what I computed when
we were in Sandy Bay on the other side of the Coast. At 6 a.m. Tack'd and
Stood to the Eastward, the Island of the 3 Kings North-West by North. At
Noon Tack'd again and stood to the Westward, being in the Latitude of 34
degrees 37 minutes South; the Island of the 3 Kings bore North-West by
North, distant 10 or 11 Leagues; and Cape Maria Van Diemen North 31 East,
distant 4 1/2 Leagues; in this situation had 54 fathoms. I cannot help
thinking but what it will appear a little strange that at this season of
the Year we should be 3 Weeks in getting 10 Leagues to the Westward and 5
Weeks in getting 50 Leagues, for so long it is since we pass'd Cape
Brett; but it will hardly be credited that in the midst of Summer and in
the Latitude of 35 degrees South such a Gale of wind as we have had could
have hapned which for its Strength and Continuance was such as I hardly
was ever in before. Fortunately at this time we were a good distance from
land, otherwise it would have proved fatal to us.* (* The north point of
New Zealand is celebrated for bad weather.)
Tuesday, 2nd. Fresh breezes at South-South-West and West accompanied with
a rowling Sea from the South-West. At 5 p.m. the wind Veering to the
Westward we Tack'd and Stood to the Southward. At this time the North
Cape bore East 3/4 North and was just open of a point that lies 3 Leagues
West by South from it, being now well assured that it is the Northermost
Extremity of this Country and is the East point of a Peninsula which
Stretches out North-West and North-West by North 17 or 18 Leagues, and as
I have before observed is for the most part low and narrow except its
Extremity where the land is Tollerable high and Extends 4 or 5 Leagues
every way. Cape Maria Van Diemen is the West point of the Peninsula and
lies in the Latitude of 34 degrees 30 minutes South; Longitude 187
degrees 18 minutes West from Greenwich.* (* This is extraordinarily
accurate, seeing that the ship was never close to the Cape, and the
observations were all taken in bad weather. The latitude is exact, and
the longitude is only three miles in error. The persistence with which
Cook clung to this point until he could resume his exploration and
examination of the coast is very characteristic of the man. He would not
willingly miss a mile of it, nor did he.) From this Cape the Land Trends
away South-East by South and South-East to and beyond Mount Camel, and is
everywhere a barren shore affording no better prospect than what ariseth
from white sand Banks. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. the Island of the 3 Kings bore
North-West by North and Cape Maria Van Diemen North-East by East, distant
4 Leagues. At 5 a.m. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North-North-East 1/2 East
and Mount Camel East. At Noon was in the Latitude of 35 degrees 17
minutes and Cape Maria Van Diemen by judgment bore North distant 16
Leagues; having no land in sight, not daring to go near it as the wind
blow'd fresh right on shore and a high rowling Sea from the Same Quarter,
and knowing that there was no Harbour that we could put into in case we
were Caught upon a lee shore.
Wednesday, 3rd. Winds at West-South-West and South-West; a fresh breeze
and Squally, the remainder moderate with frequent Squalls attended with
rain. In the evening shortned Sail and at Midnight Tack'd and made a Trip
to the North-West until 2 a.m., then wore and stood to the Southward. At
daylight made Sail and Edged away in order to make the Land; at 10 saw it
bearing North-East and appeared to be high land; at Noon it extended from
North to East-North-East distant, by Estimation, 8 or 10 Leagues, and
Cape Maria Van Diemen bore North 2 degrees 30 minutes West, distant 33
Leagues. Our Latitude by observation was 36 degrees 2 minutes South. A
high rowling swell from the South-West.
[Off Kaipara Harbour, North Island, New Zealand.]
Thursday, 4th. Winds at South-West and South-West by South; mostly a
fresh Gale accompanied with a rowling sea from the same Quarter. Being
desirous of taking as near a View of the coast as we could with safety we
keept Edging in for it until 7 o'Clock p.m., being at this time 6 Leagues
from the Land. We then hauld our wind to South-East and keept on that
Course close upon the wind all night, sounding several times but had no
ground with 100 and 110 fathoms. At 8 o'Clock a.m. was about 5 Leagues
from the Land and a place which lies in the Latitude of 36 degrees 25
minutes that had the Appearance of a Bay or inlet bore East.* (* This was
Kaipara Harbour, although, on a closer inspection, Cook thought he had
been deceived. It is the largest harbour on this part of the coast. The
town of Helensville stands on one of its arms.) In order to see more of
this place we kept on our Course until 11 o'Clock when we were not above
3 Leagues from it, and then found that it was neither a Bay nor inlet,
but low land bounded on each side by higher lands which caused the
deception. At this time we Tack'd and stood to the North-West. At Noon we
were between 3 and 4 Leagues from the Land and in the Latitude of 36
degrees 31 minutes and Longitude 185 degrees 50 minutes West. Cape Maria
Van Diemen bore North 25 West, distant 44 1/2 Leagues. From this I form
my judgment of the direction of this Coast, which is nearly
South-South-East 3/4 East and North-North-West 3/4 West, and must be
nearly a Strait Shore. In about the Latitude 35 degrees 45 minutes is
some high land adjoining to the Sea; to the Southward of that the land is
of a moderate heigth, and wears a most desolate and inhospitable aspect.
Nothing is to be seen but long sand Hills, with hardly any Green thing
upon them, and the great Sea which the prevailing Westerly winds impell
upon the Shore must render this a very Dangerous Coast. This I am so
fully sencible of, that was we once clear of it I am determined not to
come so near Again, if I can possible avoid it, unless we have a very
favourable wind indeed.* (* The mingled audacity and caution of Cook's
navigation off this coast must awake the admiration of every seaman.)
Friday, 5th. Fresh gales at South-West with frequent Squalls attended
with rain. The South-West swell still keeping up we stood to the
North-West all this day with a prest Sail in order to get an Offing. At
Noon True Course made good North 38 West, distance 102 Miles. Latitude in
per Observation 35 degrees 10 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore
North 10 degrees East; distant 41 Miles.
Saturday, 6th. First part a fresh breeze at South-West by South; in the
night had it at South. A.M., light Airs from the Southward next to a
Calm, and Clear weather. Course made good to-day is North 76 West;
distance 8 Miles; Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 8 minutes South.
Sunday, 7th. Variable light Airs and Sometimes Calm with Clear pleasant
weather. At daylight saw the land which we took to be Cape Maria Van
Diemen bearing North-North-East, distant 8 or 9 Leagues. At Noon Latitude
in per Observation 35 degrees 0 minutes South. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore
North, distant 11 Leagues.
Monday, 8th. Gentle breezes at North-East and pleasant weather. At 6 p.m.
saw the land bearing East, and sometime after saw a Turtle upon the
Water. At Noon the land Extending from North to East, distant 5 or 6
Leagues, being the high land before mentioned and which it intersected in
2 places each having the appearance of a Bay or inlet, but I believe it
is only low land.* (* These were Hokianga and False Hokianga.) Course and
distance made good since Yesterday at Noon is South 33 East, 53 miles.
Latitude per Observation 35 degrees 45 minutes South. Cape Maria Van
Diemen North 25 West, distant 30 Leagues.
Tuesday, 9th. Gentle breezes between the North-East and North-West,
Cloudy weather sailing along shore within sight of Land at Noon. Course
and distance Sailed South 37 East, 69 Miles. Latitude in per Observation
36 degrees 39 minutes South; the place we were abreast of the 4th
Instant, which we at first took for a Bay or Inlet* (* Kaipara.) bore
North-East by North, distant 5 1/2 Leagues, and Cape Maria Van Diemen
bore North 29 West, distant 47 Leagues.
[Off Kawhia Harbour, North Island, New Zealand.]
Wednesday, 10th. Winds at North-North-East and North, the first part a
Gentle breeze, the remainder a fresh breeze and Cloudy with rain towards
Noon. Continued a South-East Course until' 8 o'Clock p.m. at which time
we had run 7 Leagues since Noon, and were between 3 and 4 Leagues from
the Land which appear'd to be low and Sandy such as I have before
Discribed, and we then steer'd South-East by East in a Parrallel
direction with the Coast, our Depth of Water from 48 to 34 fathoms; a
black sandy bottom; at daylight found ourselves between 2 and 3 Leagues
from the land which was of a Moderate height and Cloathed with Wood and
Verdure. At 7 o'Clock steer'd South by East and afterwards South by West,
the land laying in that direction; at 9 was abreast of a Point of Land
which rises sloping from the Sea to a Considerable height; it lies in the
Latitude of 37 degrees 43 minutes South; I named it Woodyhead. South-West
1/2 West 11 Miles from this Head is a very small Island which we named
Gannet Island, on account of the Great Number of these Birds we saw upon
it. At Noon a high Craggy point bore East-North-East, distance 1 1/2
Leagues; this point I have named Albetross Point; it lies in the Latitude
of 38 degrees 4 minutes South, and Longitude 184 degrees 42 minutes West,
and from Woodyhead South 17 minutes West 7 Leagues. On the North side of
it the shore forms a Bay wherein there appears to be anchorage and
Shelter for Shipping against Southerly Winds;* (* Kawhia Harbour. There
is a settlement here.) our Course and distance saild since Yesterday at
Noon is South 37 East, distance 69 Miles. Cape Maria Van Diemen bore
North 30 West, distant 82 Leagues.
Thursday, 11th. At 1/2 past Noon the wind Shifted at Once from
North-North-East to South-South-West with which we stood to the Westward
until 4 p.m., then Tack'd and stood on Shore until' 7, when we again
stood to the Westward having but little wind. At this Time Albetross
Point bore North-East, distant near 2 Leagues, and the Southermost land
in sight bore South-South-West 1/2 West being a very high Mountain and
made very much like the Peak of Teneriff; in this Situation had 30
fathoms Water; had little wind all night; at 4 a.m. Tacked and stood in
Shore, but it soon after fell Calm and being in 42 fathoms Water; the
People caught about 10 or 12 Bream. At 11 a light breeze sprung up from
the Westward and we made Sail to the Southward. At Noon was by
Observation in the Latitude of 38 degrees 4 minutes South; Albetross
Point bore due East, distant 5 or 6 Leagues.
Friday, 12th. Gentle breezes from between the North-West and
North-North-East; Fore and Middle part Clear Weather; the Latter part
dark and Cloudy; steering along shore South by West and South-South-West
at the distance of 4 Leagues off. At 7 p.m. saw the top of the Peaked
Mountain to the Southward above the Clouds bearing from us South; at the
same time the Southermost land we had in Sight bore South by West. Took
several Azimuths both in the Evening and the Morning which gave the
Variation 14 degrees 15 minutes Easterly. At Noon had the winds very
Variable with dark cloudy weather attended with excessive heavy Showers
of rain; at this time we were about 3 Leagues from the Shore which lies
under the Peaked Mountain before mentioned. This Peak we did not see, it
being hid in the Clouds, but judged it to bear about South-South-East,
and some very remarkable peaked Islands, lying under the Shore, bore
East-South-East, distant 3 or 4 Leagues.
Saturday, 13th. Winds Variable. P.M., Cloudy weather. At 7 o'Clock
sounded and had 42 fathoms water, being distant from the Shore between 2
and 3 Leagues and the Peaked Mountain as near as I could judge bore East.
After it was Dark saw a fire upon the Shore, a sure sign that the Country
is inhabited. In the night had some Thunder, Lightning, and Rain; at 5
a.m. saw for a few Minutes the Top of the Peaked Mountain above the
Clouds bearing North-East. It is of a prodidgious height and its Top is
cover'd with Everlasting Snow; it lies in the Latitude of 39 degrees 16
minutes South, and in the Longitude of 185 degrees 15 minutes West. I
have named it Mount Egmont in honour of the Earl of Egmont.* (* The Earl
of Egmont was First Lord of the Admiralty from 1763 to 1766. Mount Egmont
is a magnificent conical mountain, surrounded on three sides by the sea,
from which it rises to a height of 8300 feet.) This mountain seems to
have a pretty large base and to rise with a Gradual Ascent to the Peak,
and what makes it more Conspicuous is its being situated near the Sea and
in the Midst of a flat Country which afforded a very good Aspect, being
Cloathed with Woods and Verdure. The shore under the foot of this
Mountain forms a large Cape which I have named Cape Egmont; it lies
South-South-West 1/2 West, 27 Leagues from Albetross Point. On the
North-East side of the Cape lay 2 Small Islands near to a very remarkable
Point of the Main that riseth to a good height in the very form of a
Sugar Loaf. To the Southward of the Cape the Land tends away South-East
by East and East-South-East, and seems to be every where a bold shore. At
Noon had variable light Airs and Clear weather. Latitude observ'd 39
degrees 32 minutes South. Cape Egmont bore about North-East, and we were
about 4 Leagues from the Shore in that direction; in this situation had
40 fathoms Water.
[In North Part of Cook's Strait.]
Sunday, 14th. P.M., had a Gentle Breeze at West. In the evening came to
North-West by West and Continued so all night and blow'd a fresh breeze;
we steer'd along shore East-South-East and South-East by East, keeping
between 2 and 3 Leagues off. At 1/2 past 7 p.m. Saw for a few Minutes
Mount Egmont which bore from us North 17 West, distant 10 Leagues. At 5
a.m. Steer'd South-East by South the land inclining more Southerly, but
half an hour after we saw land bearing South-West by South which we hauld
up for.* (* The north end of the South Island, New Zealand.) At this time
the weather was squally attended with showers of rain. At noon had a
Steady fresh breeze at West by North and Cloudy weather; the South-West
Extremity of the Land in sight bore South 63 degrees West and some high
land, which makes like an Island lying under the Main, bore
South-South-East, distant 5 Leagues. The bottom of the Bay* (* This was
the Northern part of Cook's Strait, but it was thought at the time to be
a bay.) we are now in, and which bears from us South we cannot see,
altho' it is very Clear in that Quarter. Our Latitude by Observation is
40 degrees 27 minutes South, Longitude 184 degrees 39 minutes West.* (*
The western side of the North Island, which Cook took such trouble to
follow, is 400 miles long, and is a most dangerous coast to explore, on
account of the winds being mostly on shore. This prevented him from
getting very close; and he missed the entrances to several harbours, such
as the Manukau, the Waikato River, Whaingaroa, and others. No canoes were
seen, as the coast is not favourable for such craft.)
Monday, 15th. Fore and Middle parts, fresh breezes between the West and
North-West and fair weather. At 8 p.m. we were within 2 Leagues of the
Land, we discover'd in the morning, having run 10 Leagues since Noon; the
land seen then bearing South 63 degrees West bore now North 59 degrees
West, distant 7 or 8 Leagues and makes like an Island. Between this land
or Island and Cape Egmont is a very broad and Deep Bay or inlet the
South-West side of which we are now upon, and here the Land is of a
Considerable height, distinguished by Hills and Valleys, and the Shore
seems to form several Bays, into one of which I intend to go with the
Ship in order to Careen her (she being very foul) and to repair some few
defects, recruit our Stock of Wood, Water, etc. With this View we Keept
plying on and off all Night, having from 80 to 63 fathoms Water; at
daylight stood in for an inlet which runs in South-West.* (* Queen
Charlotte's Sound, in the north-east part of the Middle Island.) At 8
a.m. we were got within the Entrance which may be known by a Reef of
Rocks stretching off from the North-West point, and some rocky Islands
lying off the South-East point. At 9 o'clock being little wind and
Variable we were carried by the Tide or Current within 2 Cables length of
the North-West Shore where we had 54 fathoms, but with the help of our
Boats we got Clear, at this time we saw rise up twice near the Ship a Sea
Lyon, the Head of which was Exactly like the head of the Male one
described by Lord Anson. We likewise saw a Canoe with some of the Natives
cross the Bay, and a Village situated upon a point of an Island, which
lies 7 or 8 miles with the Entrance. At Noon we were the length of this
Island, and being little wind had the Boats ahead Towing.